Monthly Archives: October 2024

Balangay Boat Building Site (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

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The author (left) at the Balangay Boat Building Site

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After our short ocular visit to Magsaysay Bridge, we next drove to the 10.6-acre Balangay Boat Building Area Tree Park, along the Agusan River, where the quincentennial balanghais, Raya Siyagu (with 10 gross tonnage), named after the ruler of Butuan-Caraga, and Raya Kolambu (with 8 gross tonnage), named after the former’s sibling, who was the ruler of Mazaua, are drydocked.  The former was in urgent need for repair while latter still looked seaworthy.

The story of the balanghai (also called balangay) replicas begins in 2009 when the Kaya ng Pinoy Inc., the team (headed by Arturo “Art” Valdez, former undersecretary of the DENR and DTI) that conquered Mount Everest in 2006, announced plans to reconstruct a balanghai boat, with the help of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya) and other tribal members, from Sibutu and Sitangkai Islands of Tawi-Tawi, who retained the lashed-lug boat-building techniques which were mostly lost in other islands.

Raya Kolambu (formerly the Lahi ng Maharlika)

Three balanghais, namely the Diwata ng Lahi, Masawa Hong Butuan, and the 75 ft. long, 15 ft. wide and 9 ft. high Sama Tawi-Tawi (launched 16, 2010)  were constructed, with old doongan (Heriteriera littoralis) and other Philippine hardwoods (all donated by former Sulu governor Abdusakur Mahail Tan), by the team of Arturo Valdez at Manila Bay, at a 1,000 sq. m. site at Liwasang Ullalim at the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex. The special wood for construction came from the established traditional source in southern Philippines, specifically Tawi-Tawi. The team have pinpointed Sama-Bajau master boat builders, whose predecessors actually built such boats, and used traditional tools during the construction.

A replica balanghai at sea

The boats will try to retrace the 1417 voyage of Sultan Paduka Batara (with 340 followers) of Sulu, from the Philippines to Fujian province in China (to pay tribute to the third Ming Dynasty Chinese emperor Zhu Di (or Yongle).  In September 1417, he arrived in Quanzhou but died there, from natural causes, and is buried in in Dezhou, Shandong, 320 kms. south of Beijing.  Kamulin, the sultan’s wife, and two sons (Andulu and Wenhalla) remained in China to tend to his tomb.  The emperor granted them lands and resources.  About 3,000 to 6,000 of their descendants still live there.

On September 1, 2009, all three journeyed, from Manila Bay, to the southern tip of Sulu,  tracing the routes of Filipino ancestors during the waves of Austronesian settlement through Maritime Southeast Asia and the Pacific.  On May 1, 2010, after an 8-month cruise, they arrived in Zamboanga City, after 70 multiport stopovers, covering 2,500 kms. The balanghais were navigated via the old method used by the ancient mariners – steering by the Sun, the stars, the wind, cloud formations, wave patterns and bird migrations.  Covering a distance of 3,908 kms. (2,108 nautical mi.), along the way, they stopped off at numerous Philippine cities to promote the project.

The second leg of the voyage, from 2010 to 2011, saw them navigate around South East Asia – Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Cambodia, Thailand and up to the territorial waters of Vietnam, before heading back to the Philippines.

The bow of the Raya Kolambu

In April 2017, two more balanghai replicas, namely the Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu were assembled, without any blueprints, in Maimbung, Sulu, by 7 members of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya), from Tawi-Tawi, led by master boat builder Nur Usman.  On May 10, 2017, both began sailing, from Sulu, in a mission to relive the 600 years of diplomatic connection between Sulu and ancient China.  They navigated without the use of modern instruments, and only through the skills and traditional methods of the Filipino Sama people.

Raya Siyagu (formerly the Sultan sin Sulu)

On April 28, 2018, the 33-man Philippine Balangay Expedition (headed by Valdez), on board the Sama Tawi-Tawi (the lead boat skippered by John Manginsay), Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu, sailed from the Manila Yacht Club and finally reached China, arriving in Xiamen at 3 PM, May 2.  The first two boats had small engines, allowing it to move at 30 knots, while the third was propelled by sail only, with a maximum speed of 10 knots.  They returned to Manila on May 22, after a 25-day journey.

Damage to the Raya Siyagu

In 2019, the Lahi ng Maharlika (now renamed Raya Kolambu), manned by 10 personnel, and Sultan sin Sulu (now renamed Raya Siyagu), run by 8 personnel, set sail, from San Vicente, Palawan to Butuan, in a 6-day journey crossing the Sulu Sea, making stops in Palawan (Linapacan, Cuyo), Antique (Anini-y), Negros Occidental (Sipalay), Negros Oriental (Dumaguete City), Camiguin and, finally, to Butuan Bay.  From Butuan, the balanghais entered the Mactan-Cebu waters on the morning of December 14, arriving in Lapu-Lapu City to commemorate the quincentennial (500th) anniversary of the Battle of Mactan on April 27, 2021.

A small-scale model of a balanghai

Today, the 15 m. long Diwata ng Lahi is on permanent public display at the back of the National Museum of Fine Arts while the Masawa Hong Butuan is on a special pavilion in Butuan City.

Balangay Boat Building Site: Butuan Global Forum, Inc., Luna Compound, 861 R. Calo St., Brgy. Bading, Butuan City, Agusan del Norte. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City. From the city center, take a habal-habal (motorcycle) ride to the site. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

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Bood Promontory and Eco-Park

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From Delta Discovery Park, it was a 9.3-km. (15-min.) drive to Bood Promontory and Eco-Park (or First Easter Mass Eco Park).  The highest elevation nearest to the seaside village of present-day Masao, it is located at a bend in the Masao River on a hill (called bood in Butuanon) overlooking the city.

Check out “Delta Discovery Park”

Magellan’s Cross

Grotto of the Virgin Mary

The park has a historical marker commemorating the contested first Catholic mass in Mindanao held on April 8, 1521 plus a memorial cross and a tableau with statues of Ferdinand Magellan, Rajah Kolambu (King of Butuan) and Rajah Siyagu (King of Mazaua), among others.

Tableau with statues of Ferdinand Magellan, Rajah Kolambu (King of Butuan) and Rajah Siyagu (King of Mazaua), among others

Nearby is a one-storey building housing an open-air function area plus oversized replicas of the Golden Tara (a 2-kg. (4.4-lb.), 21-karat gold statuette found, in 1917, at the banks of the Wawa River near Esperanza), and the Butuan Ivory Seal (an ivory stamp, seal stamp or a privy seal, dated 9th – 12th century, found in Brgy. Libertad).

Function Hall

Open-air function area

The park, situated in a non-protected 72-hectare agroforestry land, is also home to a small grotto of the Virgin Mary, walking trails and picnic spots. About 75% of the area is dominated by mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), yakal, Philippine teak (locally called hadlayati in Butuanon), Antipolo, narra and molave trees.

Replica of Golden Tara

Replica of Butuan Ivory Seal

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park: Brgy. Pinamanculan, Butuan City. 8600 Agusan del Norte.  Tel: (085) 300-0270. Open 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission: Php50/pax. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  A 30-min. tricycle ride from Masao Beach, to get to the park you have to cross a hanging bridge. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Delta Discovery Park (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

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Delta Discovery Park

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

On our second day in Butuan City, Ms. Debra Rutz Tanginan (Media Marketing Officer of Almont Inland Resort) brought Jandy and I to the 15-hectare (36.8 acre) Delta Discovery Park, a 7.6-km. (15-min.) drive from the resort.

Welcome Pavilion

Opened in May 2011, this captivating eco-tourism destination, offering a rich blend of adventure and nature, is home to what is touted as the longest zipline in the country (and in Asia) at 1.3 kms. long and, for adrenaline junkies like us, this was an opportunity we just shouldn’t miss out on.

Two A-frame cottages with a view deck in between

Upon arrival, we registered and paid for the zipline ride (Php500/pax) at the reception area of the park’s Welcome Pavilion.  That done, we walked all the way to the base of a concrete stairway that winds up a hill.

A-Frame Cottage

Before reaching the stairway, we passed a couple of A-frame, airconditioned cottages, along a ridge, where guests can stay overnight (check out video here).

Stairway going up to the waiting shed

Jandy and Debra at the waiting shed

Between the two cottages was a concrete view deck with a spectacular view of the valley below. We then went up the stairs (check out video here) to a wood and nipa waiting shed where we rested for a while.  Across the shed was a steel zipline landing platform.

The 1.3-km. (top) and 400-m. (below) zipline platforms.

The 4 x 4 Jeep we rode going up the hill

After a few minutes, a beat up, canvas soft top 4 x 4 Jeep arrived to bring us to the top of the hill and the zipline staging area.  The 5-min. long Jeep ride was part of the adventure and a thrill in itself as we were driven, on off-road tracks, over rocks and potholes.

All aboard…..

Debra, our driver and Debra on board our Jeep

Midway through the trip, we passed a building, this time a dorm where groups can also stay overnight. Like the zipline, the Jeep ride was not for the faint-hearted but, for us, it was fun as we literally jump on our seats with each pothole (check out video here).

The 1.3-km. zipline platform

Jandy, the author and Debra

All suited up….

The piece de resistance, of course, was the zipline ride.  Upon reaching the top of the hill, we disembarked from our Jeep and climbed the steel stairs up to the concrete and steel platform.  I decided to try the zipline first, followed by Jandy and, lastly, Debra.

The author all suited up and ready to go Superman style …..

Jandy’s next….

After donning my helmet, I was strapped into the horizontal, Superman zipline harness.  Once strapped, suspended and ready and facing forward, I was shoved down the line and on my way to the ultimate exhilarating “flying experience” as I “flew,” head first, with the wind blowing into my face, down the zipline (check out video here)

For nearly two minutes, I glided, at high speed (probably in excess of 60 kms./hour), 120 m. above the ground, over the green canopy of a scenic valley, then zip through the middle of a narrow gulley (giving me the feeling that I might scratch the sides), before emerging into another green valley as I approached the end of the line.  Truly an adrenaline rush of speed and the mesmerizing beauty of the green landscape and the winding Masao River….

The first valley I crossed…..

Jandy and Debra followed one after the other, all feeling the same rush as I did.  After our thrilling zipline, we descended down stairs and walked backed to the Welcome Pavilion.

The narrow gulley….

The park also has another shorter, more relaxing 400-m. long zipline (Php350/pax) that goes over a small canyon.  These 2 ziplines gives it the capacity to entertain up to 250 riders per day. They also have a swimming pool fed by a small waterfall, a butterfly sanctuary and eco-trails.

Approaching the end of the line…..

Delta Discovery Park: Purok 7 Ugabang, Brgy. Bonbon, Butuan City, 3600 Agusan del Norte.  Tel: (085) 345-8891.  Mobile numbers: (0975) 717-4505 and (0912) 444-2946.  Open daily, 9 AM – 5 PM.  Other rates: Entrance viewing (Php35/pax), Swimming Pool (Php50/pax), Cottages (Php350, Php400 and Php500), Table (Php200).  A-Frame House Overnight Rate (Php2,500, maximum of 5 pax, 2 PM to 10 AM).  Short Time Rate (Php500 for first 3 hours, maximum of 5 pax). 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City. From the city center, ride a jeepney and drop off at the turn-off to Brgy. Bonbon.  From there, take a habal-habal (motorcycle) ride to the park. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Banza Church Ruins (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

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Banza Church Ruins.  On the left is the mighty Agusan River, the third longest in the country

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From the Butuan Regional Museum, a 6.6km. (15-min.) drive brought us to the Banza Church Ruins, the oldest stone church ruins in Mindanao.  Getting there was very difficult, for first time visitors like us, as there are hardly any signs to point us in the right direction.

Check out “Butuan Regional Museum”

The balete tree enclosing the ruins of the church bell tower

This church, built by Augustinian Recollect friars beside the Agusan River (the third longest river in the country and the widest and most navigable in Mindanao) in 1625, was reputedly one of the most beautiful stone churches in the region.

The author and son Jandy beside the balete tree

However, in 1753, Moro pirates burned it down. Although the old church was rebuilt, it succumbed to decay and disuse when, in 1865, the town center was ordered transferred, by Surigao Province Gov. Manuel Boscasa, from Maug (Banza) to Baug (Magallanes).

Opening in the balete tree where you can see the interior wall of the bell tower

What is left of its former beauty is a bell tower engulfed inside a giant banyan (Ficus benjamina, locally called balete) tree.  From a small opening on the side of the tree, you can take a peek at the ruins and see its coralstone wall.

The steeple-like kiosk with pyramidal roof and balustrade

The ceiling of the kiosk

The steeple-like kiosk, with its pyramidal roof and balustrade, besides it houses a marble marker (its upper right hand corner chipped off) narrating the history of the place.  The place is a great spot to view the mighty 349 km. long Agusan River and to watch the sunset.

The slightly damaged marble historical plaque

Banza Church Ruins: Lilo, Brgy. Banza, 8600 Butuan City.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  Located 6.8 kms. (a 15-20 min. drive) from the city center, from the main highway, travel 2.5 kms. then take the track on the left. After 500 m., veer left again.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Balanghai Shrine Museum (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

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Balanghai Shrine Museum

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After arrival and lunch at Almont Inland Resort, Jandy and I, accompanied by Mr. Carl Ballesteros and Ms. Debra Rutz Tanginan, Sales and Marketing Manager and Media Marketing Officer, respectively, of the resort, boarded a Starex van to begin our tour of Butuan City. From the resort, it was a 4.9 km. (15-min.) drive to the Balanghai Shrine Museum.

Located between the city and the airport, this small but innovative, one-storey open-air museum, a field museum of the National Museum of the Philippines, celebrates the rich maritime heritage of the Philippines.  Upon arrival, we were toured around the quaint little museum by the very able and knowledgeable Ms. Gloradel T. Tamayo.

Ms. Gloradel T. Tamayo

The museum displays, in a specially made glass case, is Butuan Boat No. 1, the more than 1,700-year old balanghai (or balangay), the oldest of nine boats discovered in September 6, 1976 by pothunters in search of Chinese ceramics at Brgy. Ambangan.  It originally measured around 10.2 m. (33 ft.) in length and has been dated to 777-988 CE. The timber used in its construction are identified as toog (Petersianthus quadrialatus),  narig (Vatica sp.), and lawaan (Shorea sp.).  Three of these water-logged timber boats have been excavated while the others are still in situ.

The 1,700 year old balangahai, the oldest of the nine discovered

Another view of the balanghai

On March 9, 1987, the balanghais were declared a National Cultural Treasure by virtue of Presidential Proclamation No. 86, series of 1986, signed by the late Pres. Corazon C. Aquino.   The establishment of the shrine was made possible by the donation of land by Felix A. Luna, a resident of the area, in 1979.

Photo of 1976 excavation

Photo of the balanghai found on site

These large sea-going wooden plank-built (Heretiara litorales, locally called dongon) and edge-pegged outrigger boats are 15 m. long and 3 m. wide across the beam.  Carbon-14 dating indicates it belongs to the 4th and 13th to 14th century AD. The oldest was dated to 320 AD by Tokyo’s Gakushuin Uniiversity.

The sugar palm fibers found on site

Sugar palm fibers, locally called cabo negro, hibyok or hidyop (Arenga piñata), were used to tie the boat planks together. Two others were dated to 990 and 1250 AD. These predate the relics of Viking ships in European museums and they represent the oldest fleet of boats excavated in one place.

Wooden coffins

Wooden coffins

Also on display are 3 m. long wooden coffins and deformed skulls (showing clear signs of cranial deformation, a cultural practice, at that time, either to signify group affiliation, social status or for aesthetic purpose) dating to the 14th and 15th centuries. The coffins were found 16 m. east of the boat, though proximate to the boat, the coffin burials have no chronological reference to the 12th and 13th century middle layer, being situated on the high ground beyond the eastern limits of the midden.

Deformed skulls

Infant skull

Displayed on the walls are actual photos of the 1976 to 1986 excavation as well as the rope used to tie the boat planks together.  At the back of the museum is the actual excavation site, a single trench, which is part of the Agusan River Delta System.  Another excavation site, not open to visitors, is located at the back of the Toyota Showroom. 

The excavation site today

  

Balangay Shrine Museum: 6th St., Sitio Ambangan, Brgy. Libertad, Butuan City, 8600 Agusan del Norte.  Mobile number (0919) 077-9854. E-mail: butuan@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Opened Tuesdays to Sundays (closed on Mondays), 9 AM to 5 PM.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  The museum is 5 kms. east of the city. From Gaisano Mall/Butuan City Integrated Transportation Terminal, take a tricycle (locally called a trisikad) to the museum.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.