Goldenberg Mansion (City of Manila, Metro Manila)

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The Goldenberg Mansion

The historic Goldenberg Mansion, a stately 19th-century residence nestled in the heart of Manila, beside the Teus Mansion, stands as a timeless symbol of elegance, boasting a rich historical background.  This beautifully restored ancestral home now serves as a venue for cultural events, art exhibitions, and official receptions. This heritage house’s grand architecture, intricate details, and rich legacy offers a glimpse into the opulence of the colonial era while continuing to play a vibrant role in the country’s contemporary cultural landscape.

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The right side of the mansion

It was built in the 1870s by the affluent Eugsters, a Spanish merchant family who owned the trading company Eugster, Labhart y Cia. It was later purchased by Spanish lawyer, writer, and colonial official (he previously served as the Oidor de la Audiencia or Hearing Officer of the Real Audiencia of Manila) Jose Moreno Lacalle who revamped it, heavily incorporating  Moorish Revival style into the design and infusing elements of his native region of Granada.

Philippine Historical Committee plaque (1957)

Constructed using indigenous materials such as Philippine hardwood, alongside European materials such as pre-fabricated steel from Belgium, Italian marble, and bricks and tiles from Spain, the mansion showcases window sashes using capiz shells, an arcaded veranda, a paved courtyard, and a splashing circular fountain.

A more recent historical plaque

Over the course of the next 53 years, the house underwent several changes in ownership, being leased to various government and military offices. Between 1897 and 1898, it was rented to the Spanish Navy, serving as the residence for Admiral Patricio Montojo, its commanding officer, and housing the exclusive Spanish Navy Club’s headquarters.

The mansion’s interior

After Admiral Montojo’s defeat at the Battle of Manila Bay and the surrender of Manila to the Americans under U.S. Navy Commodore George Dewey, it became the residence of Gen. Arthur MacArthur Jr. (father of Gen. Douglas MacArthur), the battalion commander, until his appointment, in 1900, as Military Governor of the Philippines, after which, he moved to Malacañang Palace. Responsible for maintaining public order of the city of Manila, Gov. MacArthur Jr. established the Metropolitan Police Force of Manila in 1901, with himself as its inaugural chief, and the police force was initially stationed on the mansion’s grounds.

Grand double staircase

The year 1903 marked the mansion’s initial role as a museum when it functioned as the office of the Philippine Preliminary Exposition to the International Exposition in St. Louis, Missouri, exhibiting artifacts before their transfer to the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in 1904. Before shipping the items to the United States, the mansion hosted the first public exhibition of Philippine art, featuring works by Felix Resurreccion-Hidalgo, Fabian dela Rosa as well as Juan Luna’s famous The Blood Compact, which now resides in Malacañang Palace’s collection.

Glass chandelier bordered by intricate wooden fretwork

In 1908, it was the inaugural location of the Philippine School of Commerce (now the Polytechnic University of the Philippines) and, by 1915, the property was acquired by Ricardo Esteban Barretto, whose family established the San Miguel Brewery. On October 16, 1916, it hosted the first session of the Senate of the Philippines. In the 1930s, it also housed the Adamson School of Industrial Chemistry (the present Adamson University main building, in San Marcelino, was inspired by the mansion’s architecture).

Intricate wooden bas-reliefs at the walls

During World War II, it served as the residence of a Japanese general.  After the war, it was converted into the Ye Olde Mansion, a restaurant-nightclub for American troops. In 1950, the mansion was acquired by cosmetic magnate, businessman and philanthropist Michael Goldenberg (1889–1963), an American of French-Jewish descent, who initially arrived in the Philippines as a young boy in 1896 (he personally witnessed the execution of National Hero Jose Rizal in Bagumbayan).

The main hall with checkerboard tile pattern

Amassing his wealth in retail, Goldenberg founded the Goldenberg Department Store situated in Escolta and held exclusive distribution rights, in the Philippines, for distributing Helene Curtis Shampoo Plus Egg beauty products.

Receiving area with wooden parquet flooring

A keen stamp collector and a trailblazer in organized philately in the Philippines, Goldenberg amassed a collection of over 4,000 books, journals, maps, old photographs, pamphlets, and other ephemera on the Philippines and, subsequently, established the Goldenberg Filipiniana Library, a private institution dedicated to the study of Philippine history and culture. As a consequence, the mansion came to be known as the Goldenberg Mansion.

Mansion garden

In 1966, following Goldenberg’s death in 1963, the Goldenberg Mansion was acquired, from his heirs, by First Lady Imelda Marcos  as one of the Marcos mansions. Subsequently, it became the offices of the Marcos Foundation and, after undergoing extensive restoration and renovation of the interiors by National Artist for Architecture Leandro Locsin, served as the office and guest house of the Marcos Foundation and renamed Ang Maharlika.

View looking towards Gen. Solano Street

As a guesthouse, it hosted notable dignitaries such as King Hussein and Queen Alia of Jordan; Prince Juan Carlos and Princess Sofia (later King and Queen) of Spain; Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India; Prime Minister Pierre Elliott Trudeau of Canada; UN Secretary-General Kurt Waldheim; celebrated American pianist Van Cliburn and renowned ballerinas Dame Margot Fonteyn and Alicia Markova.

Sculpture of a reclining nude female figure

After the People Power Revolution of 1986, ownership of the Goldenberg Mansion and other properties within the Malacañang Palace complex transferred to the Government of the Philippines, with restricted public access. From 2022 to 2023, following the initiative of First Lady Liza Araneta Marcos, the Goldenberg Mansion underwent renovation to be made into a cultural center and events space.  A glass house, designed and conceptualized by Jonathan G. Matti (an in-demand interior designer with a background in architecture), was also added on the grounds of the Goldenberg Mansion.  The mansion was reopened to the public as a cultural center and events space.

The Glass House

On May 12, 2023, President Bongbong Marcos issued Executive Order No. 26 to conserve and protect cultural heritage sites around Malacañang Palace, including the Teus Mansion and the Goldenberg Mansion. The supervision of these properties was transferred, from the former Office of the Deputy Executive Secretary for General Administration, to the Social Secretary’s Office.

Interior of Glass House

In April 2023, the Goldenberg Concert Series, part of the “Konsyerto sa Palasyo,” was launched. In March 2024,  Araneta Marcos’ inaugural concert, starring the Manila Symphony Orchestra musicians, was held there. The Series, featuring exceptional Filipino performing artists, especially the youth, was the brainchild of Stella Goldenberg Brimo (daughter of Michael Goldenberg). In April 2024, Indak ng Musika, a piano concert, was performed by alumni of Santa Isabel College’s Conservatory of Music. In the fourth event violinist Adrian Ong and pianist Jet Chong performed for former First Lady Imelda Marcos, and her sister-in-law Irene Marcos-Araneta.

In addition to the Goldenberg Mansion’s library, the mansion housed Imelda Marcos’s extensive art collection and a significant collection of oriental ceramics and artefacts, including Chinese jade furniture, excavated porcelain and pottery, and Ban Chiang pottery from Thailand.

Its interiors features a living room with wood filigree arches and chandeliers; tapestries depicting Diana the Huntress; a “Della Robbia” style mirror (which once belonged to Catherine de Medici); several paintings by the American artist Grandma Moses (forfeited, in 2019, by the Sandiganbayan  in favor of the Government); a 16th-century European devotional altar adorned with ivory figures depicting the life and martyrdom of Catherine of Alexandria; and Persian rugs adorning the floors.

Goldenberg Mansion: 838 Gen. Solano St., San Miguel, Manila. Tel:  (02) 8249 8310 local 8188. E-mail: goldenbergevents@op.gov.ph.  Wensite: www.goldenbergmansion.gov.ph. Open  Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM to 6 PM.  Coordinates: 14°35′30″N 120°59′22″E. 

How to Get There: The mansion can be visited, by the public, upon reservation, via socsec@malacanang.gov.ph.

Teus Mansion (City of Manila, Metro Manila)

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Teus Mansion

The stunning, Spanish-Era, Neo-Gothic-style Teus Mansion (beside the Goldenberg Mansion), preserving the legacy of Philippine leadership by displaying rare portraits and historical memorabilia of the nation’s 17 Philippine presidents (that were previously shown in the Kalayaan Hall Presidential Museum and Library), takes its name from Valentin Teus Yrissari (1832-1909), a Spanish businessman, of Basque descent, from Navarra (at the foot of the Pyreness), who arrived in the Philippines in 1847 at the age of 15.  

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Entrance porch

In 1856, Teus acquired a local distillery in Hagonoy, Bulacan, owned by Elias Menchatorre.  Later, he merged his operations with Ynchausti y Cia, a company supplying equipment and abaca rope (for ship’s rigging) for steamships, which evolved into the renowned Tanduay Distillers. 

Historical plaque

In 1871, Valentin became alcalde primero of the Ayuntamiento (City Council) de Manila and, the following year, was honored as Comendador de la Real Orden de Isabela la Catolica. He later married Teresa Ferrater Ponte (1847 – 1892), the niece of the capitán general. Following Ponte’s demise, Valentin, now 62, married Maria Dolores Menendez Valdes de Cornellana Ferrater, Teresa’s 20-year old niece, at San Miguel Church. They had 4 children: Valentin Jr. (who died young), Concepcion (known as Concha), Valentin III (or Tito), and Dolores (affectionately called Lolin).

Busts of presidents lining the main hall

Initially residing in Binondo, Valentin, in a gesture of affection, surprised Dolores with Teus Mansion in the 1890s, a new residence, in the fashionable arrabal of San Miguel, built on the ruins of an older convent probably destroyed during the 1880 earthquake. He and his family would occupy this residence in Manila but, periodically, every five years, Valentin would journey to Spain. In 1909, Valentin unexpectedly died, leaving Dolores to manage the household and the family affairs. After Dolores’s own demise, the family eventually relocated to Spain by selling their interests there.

Presidential Museum
Presidential staff assistant Mr. Ronnie W. Balastigue touring media guests around the museum

The mansion was inherited by Concepción Teus, the eldest child, who rarely visited it, leaving an old man as caretaker.  The once proud mansion deteriorated.  The kitchen roof fell in and the attic became home to a bat colony. In 1974, Concepción opted to sell the mansion (none of her 7 children and 48 grandchildren were interested) to First Lady Imelda Marcos. In 1975, she engaged British interior designer Ronnie Laing and antique dealer Viring de Asis to renovate the Teus Mansion as a guest residence, becoming one of the Marcos mansions. 

Emilio F. Aguinaldo Exhibit
Manuel L. Quezon Exhibit
Jose P. Laurel Exhibit
Sergio Osmena Exhibit

The former dining room was made into two bedrooms and partitions, in another bedroom, were taken down to create a spacious living-dining area. Bathrooms and closets were cleverly added, their entrances cleverly camouflaged behind aparador (cabinet) fronts. The original downstairs carriageway now serves as an entrance hall. The rest were transformed into 12 bedrooms which, with the existing five upstairs, gave the old home a total of 17 bedrooms.  Notable guests at the Teus Mansion included the Italian-American socialite Cristina Ford, who was close associate of Imelda.

Manuel A. Roxas Exhibit
Elpidio Quirino Exhibit
Carlos P. Garcia Exhibit
Diosdado Macapagal Exhibit

After the People Power Revolution of 1986, the Teus Mansion, and other properties within the Malacañang Palace complex, became possessions of the Government of the Philippines but was left unused and remained closed to the public.

Ferdinand E. Marcos Exhibit
Corazon C. Aquino Exhibit
Joseph E. Estrada Exhibit
Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo Exhibit
Benigno C. Aquino Exhibit
Rodrigo R. Duterte Exhibit

On May 12, 2023, President Bongbong Marcos issued Executive Order No. 26 to conserve and protect cultural heritage sites around Malacañang Palace, including the Teus Mansion. That same year, the Teus Mansion underwent renovations, overseen by First Lady Liza Araneta Marcos, to house collections from the Presidential Museum (formerly located in Kalayaan Hall). The supervision of these properties was transferred to the Social Secretary’s Office from the former Office of the Deputy Executive Secretary for General Administration.

Gallery of First Ladies

The rooms were transformed into galleries exhibiting artifacts, personal belongings, clothing, souvenirs, gifts, photographs, and memorabilia of Philippine Presidents, from Emilio Aguinaldo to Rodrigo Duterte. One or two rooms is devoted to each president,.  Wall text and photographs sustain the main narrative.  Memorabilia from government collections and loans or gifts from presidential families include medals and decorations, commemorative coins, and miscellanea like eyeglasses, a golf club, chess pieces, automobile license plates, a buntal hat and a cap, flyers from long-ago elections, souvenirs of EDSA I, and sculptures like one of President Ramos’ head puffing on a cigar.

Suits of Emilio Aguinaldo and Manuel L. Quezon
Barong tagalog of Jose P. Laurel and suit of Sergio Osmena

The Osmeña Room has a Philippine flag signifying that the Republic was then at war, with the red section above the blue. Barong Tagalog and/or suits of most of the presidents, on mannequins, provide an unintended history of Philippine men’s fashion. The main hall is lined with busts of presidents and there is also a gallery with portraits of First Ladies.

Suits of Manuel A. Roxas and Elpidio Quirino
Casual attire of Ramon Magsaysay and suit of Carlos P. Garcia

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The two-storey façade, with Neo-Gothic windows (flanked by paired and single flat pilasters), on the upper floor, and quadrilateral windows, on the ground floor, features a protruding central section, topped by a triangular pediment (flanked by 8-petalled finials and topped by an acroterion), holding the porte cochere below.  Below the windows are grilled ventanillas. The massive wrought iron gate of the mansion opens up to a stone courtyard with a circular fountain.

Grand piano at the main sala (living room)
The Osmena flag with the red section above the blue signifying that the country was at war.

Teus Mansion: Gen. Solano cor. J. Nepomuceno (formerly Tanduay) Sts., San Miguel, Manila. Tel:  (02) 8249 8310 local 9009. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM to 6 PM. Admission is free.  E-mail: tours_mht@op.gov.ph. Website: www.teusmansion.gov.ph. Coordinates: 14°35′30″N 120°59′22″E.

Bahay Ugnayan (City of Manila, Metro Manila)

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Bahay Ugnayan (photo: Ms. Cris Gadion)

The Spanish Colonial-period Bahay Ugnayan (Tagalog word for “connection” or “relationship”), formerly a compound for priests, was built around the 1800s though not much is known about it.  Located meters away from the Teus Mansion, it was donated to the government, by the Madrigal family, shortly before World War II, making it one of the first, if not the first, of the mansions outside the Malacañang complex that came into government possession. 

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Grand Staircase

For many years, it served as a government office, for various agencies under the Office of the President (such as the Presidential Complaint Center and the 8888 Citizens’ Complaint Center), until May 12, 2023, when President Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos, Jr. issued Executive Order No. 26 to conserve and protect cultural heritage sites around Malacañang Palace, including the Bahay Ugnayan, Teus Mansion and Goldenberg Mansion. That same year, the mansion underwent renovations, overseen by First Lady Liza Araneta Marcos. 

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Presidential Staff Assistant Mr. Ronnie W. Balastigue (upper left, facing camera) touring media guests around the museum

Bahay Ugnayan, reimagined as a dynamic museum, has been designated as a “changing” museum, which would showcase the life and accomplishments of the current president, in this case that of the “Road to Malacañang” exhibit of Pres. Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos, Jr.. which houses memorabilia from his childhood to his 2022 campaign.

Exhibit of photographs and the president’s childhood toys
The “Road to Malacanang” Exhibit

Items in its carefully curated displays and artifacts include the red Ford F-150 pickup he frequently used during the campaign period; copies of the original documents submitted during his electoral protest against former Vice-President Leni Robredo after the 2016 elections (the Supreme Court junked Mr. Marcos’ electoral protest against Robredo in February 2021) and a piece of barbed wire tied with a yellow ribbon, a prominent symbol during the People Power Revolution that led to the ouster of the President’s father and namesake in 1986.

Exhibit of photographs of father and son and desk name signs

Whoever succeeds Marcos Jr as president in 2028 will be showcased in the Bahay Ugnayan venue by then, while the memorabilia of Marcos Jr. will be moved to the Teus Mansion.  As it stands, the Bahay Ugnayan not only showcases the life of the current president but also serves as a political statement of sorts.

Exhibit of 2022 presidential campaign

Apart from the campaign materials used during the elections, one can find the certifications about Marcos Jr.’s college education (a controversial topic that props up from time to time) as well as a section dedicated to his electoral protest which came about after his loss in the vice-presidential race in 2016.

Ford F-150 Pickup the president used during his 2022 campaign

Bahay Ugnayan: Jose P. Laurel Sr. St., (fronting Gate 2 of the Malacañang Palace), San Miguel, Manila, 1005. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Website: www.bahayugnayan.gov.ph. For private guided tours, please email to arrange separately tours_mht@op.gov.ph

Namba Jinja Shrine (Osaka, Japan)

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Namba Jinja Shrine

We were now on our last day in Osaka and we still had time to explore the city as our Cebu Pacific flight back to Manila was still in the late afternoon.  After breakfast at the hotel, my nephew Miguel, who was proficient in Japanese, offered to tour us around before returning to Kyoto to work and study.  We decided to walk to the nearby Namba Jinja Shrine. It was rainy that day.

Torri (Gate)

Nestled along Midosuji Avenue in Osaka’s Chūō Ward, the tranquil, restored Namba Jinja Shrine complex was said to have been founded in the 5th century by Emperor Hanzei, who established Shibagakinomiya Shrine in Matsubara City, Osaka Prefecture, to enshrine his father, Emperor Nintoku. 

Purification Fountain (Temizuya)

It holds the weight of ancient Imperial reverence and civic memory and stands as a historical anchor amid the city’s pulse.  The shrine was later moved to Hommachi, Tennoji Ward, and then moved to its current location in 1583 (Tensho era) after Toyotomi Hideyoshi built Osaka Castle.

Shrine with Offertory Box (Saisen-bako)

It was named “Kami-Namba Shrine” after the area and, later, adopted its current name in 1875 (Meiji era). During the Edo period, with the rise of Inari worship, the Inari Shrine, a branch shrine within the grounds, commonly known as “Bakuromachi no Oinari-san,” became more famous than the main shrine. Uemura Bunrakuken opened a puppet theater troupe within the shrine grounds in 1811 (Bunka era 8).  Destroyed during World War II, the shrine was rebuilt in 1974, with reinforced structures that echo its pre-war architecture.

Camphor Tree

Passing through the sturdy stone torii, we were welcomed by a sacred courtyard framed by modern buildings yet rooted in centuries-old tradition. Today, it has three different shrines with different deities, offering a gentle yet powerful pause with the rustle of leaves, flicker of lanterns, and soft murmur of prayers—a tender heartbeat within Osaka’s fast rhythm.

Cherry Blossom Tree

Known for its lion-dog (komainu) and fox (kitsune) statues and cherry blossom gardens, the shrine is also home to a scorched but unbowed and majestic 400-year-old camphor tree, one of the oldest in Osaka, whose trunk radiates quiet resilience and offers visitors a moment of grounding in the midst of urban haste. There is a belief that if you touch it, you will receive the “power” to rejuvenate yourself.

Fox Statues (Kitsune)
Lion-Dog Statue (Komainu)

Revered within Settsu Province’s Soja shrine network, Namba Jinja Shrine invites prayers for health, prosperity, and protection from calamities. At the beginning of the Meiji era, when Bunrakuken moved to the new development in Kujo, the “Hikorokuza” troupe opened on the site.

Red and Blue Banners (Nobori)
Wish Cards (Ema)

Each summer, the Himuro Ice Festival, held every year from July 20 to 21, visitors and worshippers are cooled by being given crushed kachiwari ice, a charming ritual reminding us of ancient ways to beat the heat.  It is said that if you eat this ice, you will not be defeated by the summer.

Sacred Lottery (Omikuji)

Namba Jinja Shrine: 4 Chrome 1-3 Bakuromachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka 541-0059. Tel: 06-6251-8000.  Fax: 06-6251-5110. Website: www.nanba-jinja.or.jp. Open daily, 7 AM – 6 PM. Admission is free.

How to Get There: Osaka Metro Midosuji Line “Shinsaibashi Station” Exit 3.  It is a 5-min. walk from Exit 13 of Osaka Metro Hommachi Station.

Dotonbori District (Osaka, Japan)

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Dotonbori District

The 4-star Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, the hotel that we stayed in, happened to be just 250 m. from Dōtonbori District, the vibrant, popular, neon-lit entertainment and dining district of Osaka for visitors to the city, boasting of a number of well-known restaurants offering a range of traditional and modern Japanese dishes.  Known as one of Osaka’s principal tourist and nightlife areas, the area runs along the Dōtonbori Canal, from Dōtonboribashi Bridge to Nipponbashi Bridge in the Namba district of the city’s Chūō Ward.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review:  Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi”

Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

Dōtonbori traces its history back to 1612, when merchant Nariyasu Dōton, the administrator of local canals, joined by Yasui Jihē, Yasui Kuhē, and Hirano Tōjirō, began construction of the canal on the southern edge of Osaka, aiming to increase commerce by widening the river.

View towards Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

To get there, we passed through the huge tunnel of the Shinsaibashi shopping mall. We then proceeded to the main gathering spot, often called “Hina-dan,” which offers the best views of the iconic signs. Here, we encountered Kim Jong Un lookalike Howard X (Howard (X) Lee), a well-known professional Australian-Chinese impersonator and political activist.  Considered the world’s first professional Kim Jong Un impersonator, he is frequently spotted in Dotonbori and other Japan locations, holding a toy missile and attracting large crowds.

Kim Jong Un impersonator Howard X

When taking photos with crowds, he often appears in costume and is sometimes paired with Donald Trump impersonators, notably around major events like the 2019 G20 Summit in Osaka. Creating satirical scenes to promote democracy, his appearance sometimes leads to deportation or detention due to political sensitivities. To provoke reactions from North Korean delegations beyond Japan, he has appeared at the PyeongChang Olympics and the Paris Olympics and has a significant presence on social media platforms such as Instagram. 

View from Midosuji Avenue

Evenings are the best times to experience the dazzling, futuristic neon cityscape reflected on the canal.  Here, you can also take a Dotonbori Canal Cruise or city cruise, to see the neon lights from the water, or visit the massive Don Quijote store by the canal.  Though now mostly a dining and nightlife area, the Theater District is historically known as a hub for Kabuki and Bunraku puppet theaters. 

Dotonbori Canal

Centered along the Dotonbori Canal, Dōtonbori (bori from hori, meaning “canal”) is famous for its eccentric atmosphere and extravagant signage (including the iconic Glico Running Man Sign and the massive. 6.5 m. long moving crab sign at Kani Dōraku) and is a top tourist spot for nightlife, shopping, popular spots including Ichiran, and various street food stalls selling takoyaki (octopus balls), kitsune udon and ramen. 

Check out the “Glico Running Man Sign”

The author and Grace with the Glico Running Man Sign in the background

Dotonbori is considered as the city’s food capital or kuidaore, a Japanese word meaning to “ruin oneself or go bankrupt by extravagant spending on food” or, more pithily, “eat until you drop.” It is part of a larger proverb: “Ruin yourself with fashions in Kyoto, ruin yourself with meals in Osaka,” reflecting local priorities (and artistry) in the clothing and food of Kyoto and Osaka, respectively.  This phrase, associated with Dōtonbori, is often used in tourist guides and advertisements.

Rows of restaurants at Dotonbori District

On our first night in Osaka, we decided to dine at Botejyu (founded in 1946), located at the second floor of the Comrade Doton Building.   We waited in line for several minutes before finally being seated.  The menu and ordering are accessed on your smartphone via a QR code. 

Botejyu Restaurant

Here, we tried out, among other dishes, the okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake consisting of wheat flour batter and other ingredients (shredded cabbage, eggs, meat, etc.). This specialty’s classic mayonnaise ingredient was developed by Botejyu. 

Ganko Sushi

On another evening, we tried out Ganko Sushi (since 1963) and Torikizoku (a popular, affordable yakitori chain. The latter is located at the Kuidaore Building, in front of which is Kuidaore Taro (also known as the Kuidaore Ningyo), a mechanical drum-playing clown, installed in 1950 as a mascot for the now closed Kuidaore Taro Restaurant which moved to a new location slightly east of his old haunt. Every March the visiting rikishi for the Osaka Grand Sumo tournament used to line up with Kuidaore Taro for photos.

L-R: Jandy, Miguel, Matthew, Nenette, Mark, the author and Grace at Torikizoku Restaurant
The mechanical, drum playing clown Kuidaore Taro

How to Get There: Located in the Minami district, Dotonbori, adjacent to the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street, is easily accessible near Namba Station.

Glico Running Man Sign (Osaka, Japan)

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They say that any visit to Osaka is never complete without a photo-op with the Glico Running Man Sign, one of the most well-known and recognized landmarks in Osaka, in the background.  This iconic, huge, brightly lit neon/LED billboard, located in Osaka’s Dotonbori district, has glowed over the Dotombori Canal in Osaka‘s premier shopping and entertainment district for more than 90 years now. 

Check out “Dotonbori District”

Glico Running Man Sign

It shows a runner, against a blue track with Osaka landmarks, reportedly inspired, in part, by the winning form of Fortunato Catalon, an early 20th century Filipino champion sprinter, from Tolosa, Leyte, known in the 1910s and 1920s, as “Asia’s Fastest Man,” in the 100-yard and 220-yard dashes during the 1917 Far Eastern Games held in Tokyo, as well as Japanese marathoner Shizu Kanaguri. It was first installed in 1935 by Ezaki Glico (manufacturer of one of Asia’s most famous confectioneries) company founder Ri-ichi Ezaki, to represent his energy-boosting caramel Glico candy that, according to lore (the Japanese love a backstory), could give you “enough energy to run 300 meters.” This energy product was created in 1922 by adding glycogen from oysters to the snack and, to this day, this running man has been used as the company’s mascot and logo.

Ezaki Glico’s most popular product is Pocky, confectionery-coated pretzel sticks, which comes in a number of tasty flavors, very popular in Japan and abroad (it is known as Mikado in some parts of the world). Glico’s other confectionery products include Pretz, Caplico, Bisco and Karujaga. Glico also makes ice-cream products and a few processed foods and curry roux blocks.  Glico has a museum, at their Osaka headquarters, featuring all sorts of nostalgic packaging and a collection of the free toys that are given away with each box. Currently on display, part of a special exhibition, is a selection of diorama’s of Dotombori and the Running Man billboard.

The sign, which now serves as a symbol of perseverance, energy, health, victory and the spirit of Osaka, has had several overhauls. Since 1972, the huge neon has shown the Running Man on a running track. In 1998,  some of Osaka‘s best-known landmarks, such as Osaka Castle and the Tsutenkaku Tower, were added to the background.  The previous five versions were all neon. The 2014 LED version follows a similar theme, with the landmarks taking a more dynamic role.

The author

Also, through the years, it has been occasionally altered to support the mighty Hanshin Tigers, Osaka’s baseball team (when Japan hosted the Soccer World Cup), and to celebrate various sporting triumphs or celebratory images, such as in 2020, to celebrate Takuma Sato and his second Indy 500 victory (the sign changed every 15 minutes to an image of Sato performing the “Glico Man Pose”).  The current 6th generation sign, installed in October 2014, is the first to use the new high-resolution LED technology which allows even more special events celebrated via the huge billboard.  It is 20 m. high, 10.38 m. wide and is illuminated from sunset until 12 midnight.

Jandy

A popular meeting place and spot to take photos, here visitors, both local and foreign, often mimic the runner’s pose (arms raised, one leg up). For the best experience, visit during the week or earlier in the day, though the sign is truly spectacular at night when the bridge is jam packed, especially at weekends, with people entering the Dotombori entertainment area.  A central point for shopping and food in Dotonbori, the area around the sign is crowded, with other bright, large signs.

Just east of the Glico Man billboard is Ebisubashi, originally constructed to provide access to the nearby Ebisu Shrine.  The bridge, more practically, provides a link between the Shinsaibashi-suji and Ebisubashi-suji shopping districts.  The bridge is also the location of a legendary curse, on Osaka’s baseball team, the Hanshin Tigers, which was considered broken in 2023.

Ebisubashi also makes for a convenient gathering point, due to the familiarity of the Glico Man, hence its nicknames, nanpa-bashi (mostly used by foreigners) and hikkake-bashi (“the pulling bridge”), mostly used by native Japanese.

Glico Running Man Sign: 1 Chrome-10-4Dotonbori Sistrict, Chuo Ward, 542-0071 Osaka.  Tel: +81 120-917-111.

How to Get There: The sign is located at the South bank of the Dotonbori Canal, near Ebisubashi Bridge.

Mitsutera Temple (Osaka, Japan)

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Mitsutera Temple

Japan is known for being a heady mix of the old and new, and this is perhaps best exemplified by the way some of its high-rise blocks are carefully built around, or integrated with, ancient temples.  One such example is the ancient, charming Mitsutera Temple, known affectionately as Mittera-san by local residents.  Located along bustling Midosuji Avenue, a major artery in the center of Osaka, its main hall, dating back to the early 1800s, has been neatly embedded at the base of the large, 15-storey, 180-room Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, in the city’s Chuo Ward. The first few floors are atrium-style to provide ample space for the hall.

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Entrance to hotel and temple

Mitsutera Temple, founded in the Nara Period (710-784) by the renowned monk Gyōki (one of 49 temples established by him during this period) to serve as a burial site for Emperor Ojin (Japan’s 15th emperor), on the orders of Japan’s 45th emperor, is a member of the Omuro school of the Shingon sect of Buddhism headquartered at Ninnaji temple in Kyoto. After it burned down in the late Edo Period (1603-1867), the current main hall was rebuilt in 1808 and, in 1945, remarkably survived the Great Osaka Air Raid unlike many other wooden structures in the city.

View of temple from Midosuji’s sidewalk
Temple bell (bonsho or tsurigane)

A decline in parishioner numbers and an increasing demand for simplified funerals have made it difficult for the temple to financially survive.  In a rare partnership and an attempt to pass down the temple to posterity, Mitsutera temple entered into a fixed-term land leasehold agreement, of 50 years, with Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi wherein Mitsutera will tap into the rent to cover expenses, such as repairs to the main hall and altar fittings.  The construction project was undertaken jointly by Mitsutera and Tokyo Tatemono Co., a property developer based in Tokyo’s Chuo Ward.

The 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva

From 2020 to 2023, it was physically merged and incorporated into the hotel, which was built directly above the temple. The entire main hall structure was jacked up and, to facilitate the new construction, relocated within the site and moved in one piece to sit alongside Midosuji’s sidewalk, allowing the tower block to be constructed behind and around it. On November 26, 2023, the temple’s main hall was opened there, creating a unique blend of traditional architecture and modern development.

For the aging temple, this creative solution preserved the history and architecture of this centuries-old temple, allowing hotel guests a special experience of staying almost at a temple, participating in religious practices, including morning prayers, eshakyo (transcription of sutra and Buddha images) and meditation. The main hall is within the first three floors.

Mitsutera Temple houses precious Buddhist statues and paintings that Osaka City designates as cultural properties. Decorated in lacquer, gold leaf, and flower petals, the main hall’s center is dominated by an 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva, with eight other Buddhist statues (including figures such as the Buddhas Yakushi Nyorai and Kobo Daishi, among others) arrayed to the sides. 

This temple offers a black and white goshuin where you need to trace the lines and words color the picture and write your own wish. After that, they will help to stamp the special ink on the completed goshuin. Today, it is a pleasant experience to stroll in the area as the aroma of incense floats next to the fragrance of perfume from the boutiques of high fashion brands which line Midosuji.

Kannon Sacred Lottery (Omikuji) – fortune-telling paper slips found offering guidance on aspects like love, health, and work

Mitsutera Temple: corner of Midosuji Avenue and Mitsudera-suji Sts., 2 Chome-7-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0085, Japan. Tel: +81 6-6211-1982.

How to Get There: Mitsutera Temple, located near Shinsaibashi-suji and Dotonbori, conveniently situated within walking distance from both Namba Station and Shinsaibashi stations on the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line.

Mega Grand World Hanoi (Vietnam)

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Mega Grand World Hanoi

Prior to our departure back to Manila, we made a short stopover at the Mega Grand World Hanoi, a large-scale entertainment and leisure complex that opened in 2023.  Designed to be a comprehensive destination for both locals and tourists, it combines shopping, dining, cultural experiences, and entertainment. This new urban area, mega complex and vibrant festive space, conveniently situated at the heart of Ocean City, to the east of Hanoi, offers visitors a unique blend of top-tier entertainment, upscale shopping, vibrant events, and where visitors can immerse themselves in the rich cultural tapestry of Asia and Europe via a captivating fusion of Asian and European landscapes. 

L-R: Jandy, Grace, the author, Lourdes and Lorraine

It connects the Coral Avenue of Vinhomes Ocean Park 2, the Four Seasons Avenue of Vinhomes Ocean Park 3, and Ring Road 3.5. From the timeless elegance of Venetian-inspired areas and the bustling energy of Korean-inspired zones, Grand World provides endless opportunities for sightseeing and photography.

Jandy and Grace

The lively Venice – Riverside Western Market, featuring an authentic array of colorful shops lining the colorful streets and enchanting banks of the river, offers Italian charm with gondola boats, which are reminiscent of those found on Venetian canals. Visitors can board these gondolas and enjoy a picturesque cruise along the serene, 830-m. long canal, admire the magnificent sunset, explore the diverse shops, and immerse themselves in the vibrant culture that this zone encapsulates. During the ride, you will also get to enjoy impromptu European music performances.

Pedestrian bridge crossing the canal

Crossing the canal is a pedestrian bridge connecting to Asia, with typical Korean ancient houses in the K-Town subdivision.

The bustling K-Town – Coastal Eastern Street, featuring a dynamic blend of traditional and modern architecture, creates a vibrant ambiance reminiscent of some of Korea’s most iconic areas. This zone captures the essence of both ancient and contemporary Korean culture through its diverse offerings, including the upscale Gangnam shopping street, the multicultural Itaewon cultural street, the youthful Hongdae food and art street, and the bustling Myeongdong fashion and beauty street.

Little Hong Kong, a zone that captures the essence of Hong Kong, feels like entering a paradise of shopping, entertainment, and joy. Stepping into Little Hong Kong, visitors can experience the culinary delight and cultural life of Hong Kong, right in Hanoi, as they enjoy an array of experiences that extend from vibrant shopping streets to lively entertainment venues, including lounges, bars, and pubs.

The unique Grand Voyage Show, a special, unforgettable performance held on Asia’s largest outdoor boat stage, brings to life the bustling and magnificent European trade route, crossing the maritime Silk Road, five oceans, and the trading port of Hoi An, Vietnam through captivating performances enhanced by advanced technology, impressive 3D mapping, dynamic sound and light effects, a giant water screen, and a talented cast of over 62 actors.

Gondola ride

The mesmerizing and unforgettable “Journey to the Wonderland,” a circus show presented by a talented troupe of professional performers from China, invites and transports audiences to a new realm of thrilling dreams through the captivating language of elaborate circus performances. With awe-inspiring acts and mesmerizing choreography, the show promises to dazzle audiences of all ages.

The fantastic and delightful carousel ride, with its vibrant colors and enchanting music, offers a nostalgic journey for visitors of all ages as you enjoy panoramic views of Grand World’s bustling atmosphere while being carried away by the gentle motion of the carousel.

Grand World, a shopping paradise that cater to every shopping enthusiast’s needs, boasts a plethora of renowned fashion and cosmetic brands. Visitors can also shop for furniture at Sinh Phu, sofas at Kuka Home, and household appliances at Lock & Lock. 

Come evening, visitors are treated to a dazzling spectacle of lights and colors as fireworks light up the sky above Grand World, adding an extra layer of magic as you’re strolling through the vibrant streets, enjoying a delicious meal at a restaurant, or simply taking in the sights and sounds of the bustling complex.

The serene Tropical Lagoon, a man-made beach with fine white sand and clear blue water amidst urban landscapes, provides the perfect setting for moments of relaxation and rejuvenation. It also boasts an array of artworks, making it a haven for photography enthusiasts seeking to capture quality photos.

Grand World 0ffers an unparalleled culinary experience, with hundreds of renowned domestic and international brands. Visitors can indulge in dishes from Vietnam’s three regions as well as explore unique flavors from Thai, Korean, Japanese, Italian, and American cuisines. After a satisfying meal, you can relax at beautiful coffee shops, bars, and clubs, including favorites like Highlands Coffee, Trung Nguyen Legend, Katinat Cafe, Poseidon Bar, and 729 Club.

VinWonders Wave Park & Water Park, surrounded by blue water and white sand, offers a variety of thrilling and exhilarating water sports activities such as slides, themed playgrounds, and outdoor and indoor pools.

Mega Grand World Ha Noi: Nghĩa Trụ, Văn Giang, Hung Yen, Vietnam.  Tel: +84 1900 232389. Open 24/7 (some activities and services have specific operating hours). You will need to pay for optional experiences like gondola rides or costume rentals.  Entrance fee: Free of charge (some activities and services have specific fees). The main daily show, “The Grand Voyage,” takes place on the Venice River at 9 PM (21:00). Various attractions have different opening and closing times. The gondola ride service on the Venice river operates daily, from 10 AM to 8 PM. The Teddy Bear Museum may have separate ticket prices. A general admission ticket is available for around $150,000 VND. 

How to Get There: Visitors can easily reach Grand World from Hanoi via various means of transportation. If you have a motorbike or car, you can drive to Grand World from Hanoi yourself in just about 50 minutes from the city center. This complex is equipped with numerous parking lots.  Just follow the route: Vinh Tuy Bridge – Co Linh Street – Hanoi-Hai Phong Highway – Grand World. VinBus. which continuously operates, connects Grand World with various locations in downtown Hanoi. Free electric VIN bus service is available from Hoan Kiem and Time City to Grand World Hanoi. 

Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre (Ha Long City, Vietnam)

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Vietnamese water puppetry

After the end of our Ambrose Day Cruise, we again boarded our coach for the short 6.9-km. drive to Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre (Thanh Long Water Puppet Theatre) where we were to watch a water puppet show, a unique art form, central to Vietnamese culture, offering insight into local traditions, rural life, folklore, and historical tales, accompanied by live music. 

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Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre

A dedicated venue for traditional Vietnamese water puppetry (Múa rối nước) which originated in the 11th century from the rice-farming villages of the Red River Delta here, we watched ancient Vietnamese water puppetry featuring puppets, made of fig wood carved and painted skillfully in various fascinating shapes as well as symbolic facial expressions, moving on a water stage. 

Shows feature scenes of rice planting, fishing, dragon dances, and folk stories, bringing Vietnamese village life to the stage. Family-friendly, children especially enjoy the colorful puppets and engaging stories.

The stage

Traditionally performed during festivals, celebrations, and special occasions such as the Lunar New Year, over time, it evolved from a humble village entertainment into a distinctive form of traditional Vietnamese performing art. 

The singers to the left of the stage

Aside from Hoa Sen, there are two other water puppet theaters in Halong that are famous for water puppetry: Hoang Gia International Park (Bai Chay Tourist Area) and Yen Duc Village (Dong Trieu District). Since performing water puppets requires a large body of water, Halong Bay is an ideal place to showcase the colors of this rich and special cultural show, making it a popular, easily accessible cultural activity for visitors to the region.

The folk orchestra to the right of the stage

A showcase of the traditional daily lives of Vietnam’s farmers, from their way of making a living on the rice field to how they entertain themselves after hard working hours, the Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre covers an area of nearly 1,000 sq. m., with a seating capacity of up to 500 people at one time. It organizes a special performance, combining 16 different local fairy tales with interesting stories about Vietnam’s culture.

The farming theme

The themes of the 30 to 35-minute show focus on the daily life of farmers, folklore, historical tales and the general aspects of the Vietnamese’s spiritual life.  Puppets are manipulated by puppeteers standing in waist-deep water behind a screen, creating a magical effect. To the left and right of the stage are two small folk orchestra of 5 and 7 people, respectively. Currently, there are 3 water puppet shows in a day, with each show lasting from 30 – 35 minutes.

The puppeteers

Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre: No. 46 – The 2nd Peninsular, Hoang Quoc Viet, Halong City. Admission: 150,000vnd/pax

Sung Hot Cave (Ha Long, Vietnam)

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Sung Hot Cave

The large, mysterious and beautiful Sung Sot Cave (also called “Surprising Cave”), on Bo Hon Island in the center of Ha Long Bay and the Tonkin Gulf, is the largest (it can accommodate up to 1,000 visitors at a time) and, possibly, the most prominent and most frequented by visitors of all the caverns in Halong.  Situated in a limestone massif, with an extremely developed karst terrain, is known for its impressive stalactites that hang from the ceiling, stalagmites that rise from the floor and vast, multi-chambered interior.

The winding stone stairway leading up to the cave entrance

In 1901, French geologist Henri Mansuy, in search of minerals, discovered this cave, describing it as “a cathedral crafted by nature herself,” giving rise to the moniker Grotte de la surprise, “the cave of surprise.” However, this name was not officially recognized until nearly 40 years later when a French travelogue was published in 1938. In 1993, just one year before UNESCO declared Ha Long Bay’s core region as a World Natural Heritage site, Sung Sot Cave welcomed its first visitors. Dubbed the “Opera House of Ha Long Bay,” it was named one of the top ten most beautiful caves in the world by the Czech Association of Travel Agents and Brokers.  

The stone stairway amidst lush vegetation

According to legend, thousands of years ago, during the reign of King Hung, the Van Lang kingdom faced an invasion by the Yin from China. In this moment of crisis, Thanh Giong, a three-year-old boy, miraculously appeared to aid the king. Riding a colossal iron horse and wielding a mighty sword, Thanh Giong, with extraordinary strength and courage, defeated the invaders. Breathtaking Halong Bay is said to be the site of this epic confrontation. After the battle, Thanh Giong ascended to heaven from this cave, leaving behind his legendary steed and weapon.

The cave entrance

Ha Long Bay has many other caves with varying degrees of accessibility and visitor numbers, some of which may be affected by tourism. Other caves with stalactites exist in the bay. Cap La Cave, in the Bai Tu Long Bay area, known for its unique stalactites and pristine nature, though it may not be currently accessible to visitors. Sung Sot Cave is an old phreatic cave which also include Tam Cung, Lau Dai, Thien Cung, Dau Go, Hoang Long and Thien Long.

The first chamber

Nowadays, these caves lie at various heights. From its truncated entrance chambers on a ledge high on the cliff, a passage of more than 10 m. high and wide descends to the south. Covering a total area of more than 12,000 sq. m., the cave is divided into three chambers with a wealth of stalagmites of various shapes. 

A cave pool

The island, and its cave, was the second stop of our Ambrose Day Cruise. Upon arrival at the island, Jandy and I, as well as other tourists from other boats, disembarked and queued up to climb around 100 winding stone steps, surrounded by lush forests, and then descend 10 stone steps to reach the cave entrance which is a small rock breach, 25 m. above sea level, halfway up the limestone mountain. 

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Part of the 800 m. long stone walkway

The path inside the cave was through an 800-m. long stone walkway, with gradual ups and downs, and lit, with colorful lampposts, to highlight its features, creating a vivid tableau and transforming the cave’s cold, empty feeling into a lively, captivating scene.  Some parts have a diffused orange light that creates a fanciful atmosphere, making the space more mysterious and attractive.  A dry cave, it allows for comfortable one-way exploration on foot, with a separate entrance and exit. 

Jandy in front of a cave drapery

At the. first chamber, the smallest of the three chambers at nearly 3,000 sq. m, is likely a “waiting room.” Here, there is a small, serene and shallow freshwater lake formed by rainwater trickling through the limestone cracks in the cave ceiling, with clear water that allows you to view the lake’s bottom, adding to the chamber’s mystical ambiance.  Its ceiling is covered with a layer of “velvet carpet,” with gleaming stalactite chandeliers hung 25 to 30 m. high in the outer chamber, including stone sculptures, banyan trees, dinosaurs, elephants, flowers, seals, etc.

The cave ceiling

The “Stone Waterfall,” on the eastern wall, is a massive, 18-m. wide flowstone formation that appears to be frozen in mid-flow.  Created by centuries of mineral-rich water flowing down a cave wall, its varying mineral content creates striking color variations ranging from pure white to amber and deep russet tones.  

The “Elephant,” near the transition between the first and second chambers, is a stalactite-stalagmite combination with a massive body created by the joining of the ceiling and floor, a clearly-defined trunk and tusks formed by small stalactites.

The second chamber (known as the “Royal Garden”), stretching an impressive 7,000 sq. m., is connected to the first chamber by a narrow rock path.  It opened to an enormous space with and enormous freshwater lake, stunning rock formations and huge and beautiful stalactites and stalagmites in unique and interesting shapes such as a buddha, a bird, a monkey climbing on the rock column, etc..  The “Royal Garden Stone,” a massive, flat-topped formation in the center of the chamber, resembles a royal viewing platform surrounded by stalagmites that look like courtiers paying homage.

The “Stone Curtain,” along the western wall, are thin, delicate (some just 2 to 3 cms. thick) and wavy stalactites that create an appearance of stone curtains or draperies, with beautiful banding patterns caused by varying mineral content.  The “Sword Lake,” a small, sword-shaped pool in the center of the chamber, is said to mirror Hanoi’s Sword Lake.  During certain lighting conditions, the stalactite’s reflection creates the illusion of a sword rising from the water. The “Buddha’s Palm,” a flat, hand-shaped formation near the exit, is believed to resemble Buddha’s hand in blessing.  Though conservation efforts now discourage this practice, many visitors still touch this formation for good luck.

The author with Jandy

Inside this chamber, there are also said to be monkeys scurrying around in quest of food and fun. Compared to the first chamber, this chamber’s karstification process has resulted in a clearer and more ventilated atmosphere due to its ceiling being peppered with thousands of small holes or natural skylights that creates magical light beams during midday hours. There are also several delicate rimstone pools, with crystal-clear waters reaching depths of 30 cms. that reflect the surrounding formations, contain unique microorganisms that have adapted to the cave environment.

The truly breathtaking third and last chamber, further inside, is the biggest chamber, able to accommodate thousands of people. Inside is a 12 m. high rock formation said to be the petrified form of the legendary, stern-faced Vietnamese hero Thanh Giong.

Near the entrance is a stone block, fashioned like a massive, battle-ready horse, and a long sword that Thanh Giong left behind to drive away evil spirits.  Also inside the cave are little ponds and lakes which are regarded as the hoofprints of Thanh Giong’s horse or Giong’s footprints. The cave’s highest point is a “royal garden” with a lake, many plant species, several bird species and panoramic views of the bay.

The cave exit

The final ascent to the cave’s exit took around 275 steps plus another 250 steps, another physical effort, down to the dock. Thought beautiful, with stunning natural formations and a cool, humid environment, our cave exploration was very tiring due to the inclines.

Exiting the cave

How to Get There: Sung Sot Cave, one of the destinations in the tour route 2 (one of 6 routes that bring visitors around Halong Bay), is a short boat ride, from two major ports in Halong – Tuần Châu Wharf (about 12 kilometers from Halong city center) or Halong International Cruise Port (it came into operation in 2019 and is closer to the city center and hence easy to travel), to the island.

To visit Sung Sot cave, travelers must first purchase entrance tickets to the harbor and then boat tickets. Tickets can be purchased at the booth on the right of the entrance of Tuần Châu Wharf. If you want to visit this cave, you need to buy a ticket for route 2, the only one with swimming and full of all kinds of experiences, from visiting caves, boating (or kayaking), swimming, sightseeing and relaxing. This is a half-day tour that lasts from noon to evening. It includes attractions such as Cave Park Conservation Center – Soi Sim Island, Ti Top Island, Sung Sot Cave, Bo Nau Cave, Ho Dong Tien Cave, Luon Cave, Trong Cave, and Trinh Nu Cave.

Entrance tickets for route 2:

Day trip ticket: VND 290,000 (USD 12.1) per person

Ticket for 2 days and 1 night: VND 590,000 (USD 24.6) per person

Ticket for 3 days and 2 nights: VND 790,000 (USD 33) per person

Boat tickets:

The boat fare for individual passengers for route 2 (including Sung Sot cave) is regulated by Halong Bay Management Board as VND 200,000 (USD 8.4) or VND 250 000 (USD 10.5)/pax + entrance ticket (not included) including food, drink and 50 000 VND (2.1 USD)/pax ticket for bamboo boat/kayaking and tour guides). The tour lasts from 5 to 6 hours. The departure times of the boats are 6:30 – 8 AM and 12 – 1:00 PM.