Manila Metropolitan Theater (City of Manila, Metro Manila)

Manila Metropolitan Theater

After nearly 13 years, I finally got to see the historic Manila Metropolitan Theater (abbreviated as the MET), a renowned Filipino-influenced Art Deco masterpiece, in its restored state (after surviving the Second World War, it went through periods of disrepair and neglect before undergoing successful restoration), attending the closing and turnover ceremony of the Filipino Food Month 2026 at its ballroom. Located along the Pasig River and in front of the equally classic Manila Post Office, it was recognized as the forefront of the Art Deco architectural style (then a rage in the U.S.A.) in the Philippines.

Check out “Save the Manila Metropolitan Theater!!! and “Closing and Turnover Ceremony of Filipino Food Month

Entrance facade with its proscenium-like central window of rectangular stained-glass panels

Designed by the late National Artist (for Architecture) Juan M. Arellano, its cornerstone was laid in February 1928, with construction by Pedro A. Siochi & Co. as contractors.  The biggest in the Far East at that time, the theater was inaugurated on December 10, 1931.

Side elevation

Arellano, known for his Neo-Classical architectural style employed in his design of the Legislative Building and Manila Post Office, departed from this and the Metropolitan Theater marked his departure towards more modern designs. For the structural configuration of the building, Arellano was inspired by the phrase “On Wings of Song,” a rectangular-shaped auditorium flanked by pavilions on either side. Throughout the design, Arellano weaved Filipino decorative elements into the Art Deco style. Philippine Magazine editor A.V.H. Hartendorp described the style as “modern expressionistic.”

The courtyard

During its heyday as the “Grande Dame” of theaters, the Met played host to vaudeville acts, zarzuelas, operas, pageants, Filipino and Spanish plays, and performances by well-known artists such as violinist Maestro Jascha Hefertz and composer/conductor Dr. Herbert Zipper (who conducted the Manila Symphony Orchestra).

The foyer

On October 21, 1976, the Metropolitan Theater was declared a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) and, on June 23, 2010, the National Museum of the Philippines recognized the Met as a National Cultural Treasure under the National Cultural Heritage Act.

National Cultural Treasure Plaque (2010)

Following extensive restoration by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA), which now oversees the venue, it reopened on December 10, 2021 (the Metropolitan Theater’s 90th anniversary) as a premier venue for arts and culture, including performances and special screenings.

Adam (Francesco Riccardo Monti)

The theater’s still had its exuberant and symmetrical exterior, with its tiara-like pediment with stylized, Muslim-inspired minarets crowning the top of the concave roof (which suggested its status as a theater back in its prime days), plus bas-reliefs with curlicues or mask-like chimeras; whimsical rope designs; friezes; colorful ceramic tiles;  intricate grille work at the doors and windows. and is also enhanced by sensuous, exotically-draped female statues, said to be Siamese dancers, done by Italian sculptor Francesco Riccardo Monti (who lived in Manila from 1930 until his death in 1958).

Eve (Francesco Riccardo Monti)

The façade’s focal point is its proscenium-like central window of rectangular stained-glass panels that corresponds with the shape and scale of the Main Theater inside. The stained-glass marquee, executed by the Kraut Art Glass Company, with the “Metropolitan” label backlit and surrounded by Filipino floral motifs, is highlighted, on both sides, by curving walls of colorful, decorated tiles resembling batik patterns of Southeast Asia. The wall that frames the stained-glass is a segmented arch with rows of small finials on the upper edge. 

Dance (Fernando Amorsolo)

Above the proscenium arch are eight iconic, original bas-relief figures, by Francesco Riccardo Monti, which were discovered intact, in 2017, after dismantling the anomalous additions from the 1978 restoration, surprising the NCCA who originally intended to reproduce the figures from historical photographs.

The History of Music (Fernando Amorsolo)

There are also moldings of zigzag and wavy lines that go with the sponged and painted multi-colored walls. Capiz lamps and banana-leaf formed pillars, which go alternately with the theater’s entrances, accent the ground level.

Balcony

At the entrance are elaborate wrought iron gates, patterned into leaf designs and various lines. I accessed the Main Theater through a foyer with a two-storey ceiling.  The foyer’s grillwork features a drooping floral balustrade, in a geometric Art Deco style, originally crafted by Arcadio Arellano, the brother and collaborator of Architect Juan M. Arellano.

The Main Theater

There were stairways, on either side, leading up to the balcony. By the stairways are the Adam and Eve bronze sculptures also done by Francesco Riccardo Monti. On opposite sides of the foyer are reproductions (since the 1996 foreclosure, the original murals are in the GSIS Museum) of two mural paintings, “The Dance” and “The History of Music,” by the late National Artist Fernando Amorsolo

The Loge Section and the ceiling of Isabelo Tampinco

The theater used to seat 1,670 (846 in the orchestra section, 116 in loge and 708 in balcony) but, during its 2020 renovation, the capacity of the Main Theater was reduced to 990 and the floor’s elevation was adjusted to comply with safety regulations.

Balcony Section
Balcony Section

The ceiling is decorated with intricate interior motifs such as Art Deco mangoes, bananas, and tropical leaves bas-reliefs designed by Isabelo Tampinco.

The author (left) with Teddy Pelaez, George Buid, Cris Gadion and Ann Esternon

Metropolitan Theater: Padre Burgos Avenue cor. Arroceros Street, Liwasang Bonifacio (formerly Plaza Lawton), Ermita, Manila (near Mehan Garden and the LRT Central Terminal). Tel/Fax: (02) 8248 3068 or (02) 8527-2192 local 805. Mobile number: 0968 542 8521. E-mail: met.visitorsservices@ncca.gov.ph. Coordinates: 14.5940°N 120.9806°E.

Arch of the Centuries (University of Santo Tomas, Manila)

The Baroque-style Arch of the Centuries, the arched gate at Plaza Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas (UST), is a landmark which symbolizes UST’s role as a “gateway in history to the finest breed of Filipinos.”  It is one of the few relics left from original UST campus in the walled city of Intramuros which was destroyed in 1945 during the Battle of Manila in World War II, leaving the 17th-century campus completely destroyed.  This arch door, called Puerta del Colegio, faced the first Benavides Statue, which was located at Calle Postigo and Calle de Santo Tomas.

The Arch of the Centuries

In 1927, the university transferred here at its present Sampaloc site and the central lower section of the original facade of the first campus in Intramuros (the side facing the UST Main Building), built in 1680, was dismantle, piece by piece, in 1953, under orders of UST rector Jesus Castañon, by Carmelo Flavier Pablo of C.F. Pablo and Son, a precast contractor, and transferred to the present campus, taking a year to complete.  Carmelo Flavier Pablo also did the other half of the current structure (the side facing España Boulevard), a replica of the arch door inaugurated in 1954, as well as the statues, and the bas-relief panels. The arch became formally known as the Arch of the Centuries.

The original facade

On January 25, 2010, , along with the UST Main Building, the UST Central Seminary Building, and the university field, it was declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines. On January 18, 2015, during his visit to the university, Pope Francis passed through the arch.

Check out “UST Main Building

One of the cultural icons of the University of Santo Tomas, it is often the site of important campus events such as the Thomasian Welcome Walk, UST’s tradition of welcoming the freshmen to the university by passing through the arch. The passing through also signifies the completion of their student life in the university when, after the baccalaureate Mass, the candidates for graduation exit through the arch during a parade.  There is an urban legend that claims prematurely exiting the arch, before graduation, would lead to a student’s debarment.

Jose Rizal commemorative plaque

Commemorative plaques, on its lower pillars, facing España Boulevard, honors two distinguished alumni, Philippine President Manuel L. Quezon (1878-1944), on the right and  José Rizal (1861-1896), on the left. The bronze marker, on the side of the left pier, tells the history of the arch. The words underneath it read, Gateway to the history of the finest breed of Filipinos, a reference to the UST alumni.

Manuel L. Quezon commemorative plaque

The statue of Thomas Aquinas, above the attic storey, portrayed as a young and energetic man seated on a chair (a depiction similar to the painting by Justus van Gent and Pedro Berruguete), was inaugurated on December 21, 1955. Flanking it are two female figures, the one facing west holding a cross, in her right hand, and an admiralty pattern anchor in her left hand while the one facing east holds a torch, in her left hand, while her right arm rests on a winged wheel.

Fountain of Divine Wisdom

These two figures correspond to the Fountain of Divine Wisdom (also called the Fountain of Divine Wisdom) and the Fountain of Human Wisdom (Fountain of Knowledge) that flank the arch. The Fountain of Wisdom, surrounded by four deer and open shells, consists of a barbed, quatrefoil-shaped basin featuring a sculpture of a lady standing on top of a lotus flower (its bowl carried by four phoenixes) while holding a Bible who’s cover depicts the image of the Lamb of God.   The Fountain of Knowledge, surrounded by four owls of Athena and open shells, also features a sculpture of a lady (standing on a cylindrical pedestal adorned by the early disciplines offered in the university) on top of a lotus flower (its bowl carried by four sphinxes) while holding a globe.

Fountain of Knowledge

The main inscription, directly above the arch, is different on both sides. Four bas-relief panels, depicting the life of Thomas Aquinas, flank the main inscriptions.  The southwest panel depicts two angels giving him the girdle of chastity; the southeast panel depicts Thomas Aquinas speaking to an icon of the crucified Christ; the northeast panel depicts Thomas Aquinas and the Eucharist; and the northwest panel depicts Thomas Aquinas taught by Saints Peter and Paul.

Bronze plaque that tells the history of the arch

A coat of arms, below the main inscription, features a double-headed eagle similar to the one used by Charles I, the King of Spain when the Philippines was discovered. The main façade consists of two columns, of the Doric order, on each side of the archway and the spandrels  consists of Baroque reliefs.

Arch of the Centuries: Plaza Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas, Manila.

UST Main Building (University of Santo Tomas, Manila)

University of Santo Tomas Main Building

The  majestic, 4-storey, Renaissance Revival-style Main Building of the University of Santo Tomas (UST), functioning as the university’s administrative center, is home of the Faculty of Civil LawFaculty of Pharmacy, the College of Science and the Museum of Arts and Sciences. Designed by Fr. Roque RuañoO.P., this building, influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright‘s Imperial Hotel, Tokyo (which survived the Great Kantō earthquake of September 1, 1923 which flattened Tokyo and Yokohama), is the first earthquake-resistant building in the Philippines.

The author with the Main Building in the background

Construction of the building began on 1924 and, before it inauguration on November 12, 1927, the first classes were held there on July 2, 1927. Since then, it has been the focal point of the campus and all succeeding structures revolved around the Main Building.

Historical Research and Markers Committee plaque (1935)

Starting on January 4, 1942, during World War II, the Japanese converted the university into the Santo Tomas Internment Camp for Americans and other non-Filipinos, the internees occupying three floors of the building (465 died there from hunger and malnutrition). On February 3, 1945, during the Battle for Manila the university and its around 4,000 Allied POWs and civilian internees were liberated by the 1st Cavalry Division, tanks from the 44th Tank Battalion and Filipino guerrillas led by Capt. Manuel Colayco (a UST faculty member who died securing the place), the first building in Manila to be liberated.  After the war, UST resumed operation, holding classes in the building.

National Historical Commission plaque (2012)

The university and the building was visited by three popes: Pope Paul VI on November 28, 1970, Pope John Paul II on February 18, 1981 and January 13, 1995 (when UST hosted World Youth Day 1995) and Pope Francis on January 18, 2015 (though he did not enter the building). Queen Sofia of Spain also visited the building on July 6, 2012. On January 25, 2010, the National Museum of the Philippines declared it as a National Cultural Treasure.

Pope Paul IV Papal Visit Plaque

This 86 m. long, 74 m. wide and 51.5 m. (169 ft.) high, rectangular structure, with two patios  (interior courtyards), is actually made up of 40 separate structures independent from one another, with the only opportunity provided by pre-cast stab flooring. There are four corner units, two midsection units (rear and front entrance), one tower (including two elevator cores) and one entrance canopy.  Another 26 units consists of seven units for the Padre Noval Street side, seven units for the Arsenio H. Lacson Avenue (formerly Gov. Forbes) side, six units for the Dapitan Street side, six units for the España Boulevard side, four for the middle section (or paraninfo) and two stair sections adjacent to the tower and elevator core.

Tria Haec

Statues, standing on the pedestals on the fourth floor of the building, symbolize the spiritual and intellectual aspiration of the university. Designed by Italian sculptor Francesco Riccardo Monti, a faculty member of the College of Architecture, they were installed between 1949 and 1953.  The so-called “Tria Haec” (Latin for “These Three”), surrounding the clock, are three statues representing Hope (Spe), Faith (Fides, on top of the clock) and Love (Caritas).

Grand Staircase

To the right of the “Tria Haec” are theologians and historians such as St. Augustine, St. Raymond of Peñafort and Vincent of Beauvais (Dominican monk and writer of Speculum Maius). To their right, facing Padre Noval Street, are the tragedians Pedro Calderón de la Barca, Sophocles and William Shakespeare, while to the left are the philosophers Aristotle, Saint Albert the Great and Plato.  To the left of the philosophers, facing Arsenio Lacson Avenue, are the playwrights Lope de Vega, Aristophanes and Molière.

First two panels of History of the University of Santo Tomas Mural (Antonio Garcia Llamas)
Third and fourth panel of History of the University of Santo Tomas Mural (Antonio Garcia Llamas)

At the ground floor lobby is the four-panel mural “The History of the University of Santo Tomas,” painted by Antonio Garcia Llamas between 1952 and 1954.  It depicts significant milestones of the university including its declaration as a Pontifical University on September 17, 1902 by Pope Leo XIII and the advent of co-education.  At the second floor staircase are paintings by Filipino masters Galo Ocampo and Carlos “Botong” Francisco.

The Foundation of the University of Santo Tomas by Archbishop Benavides (Domingo Celis)

Main Building: University of Santo Tomas (UST), EspañaSampaloc, Manila. Coordinates: 14°36′37″N 120°59′21″E.

Church of St. Charles Borromeo (Mahatao, Batanes)

Church of St. Charles Borromeo

From Maydangeb White Beach, we again boarded our van and continued on our way, traveling the remaining 2.4 kms. (a 5-min. drive), to Mahatao town proper, and making a stopover at the town’s Spanish-era Church of St. Charles Borromeo.

Check out “Maydangeb White Beach”

The church complex

The first church, made with light material and completed by Dominican friars in 1789, was destroyed by a strong typhoon in 1872 and the present structure was rebuilt, with stone and lime, in 1873 by Father Crescencio Polo, OP (who also remodeled the stone and mortar convent attached to the church).  On September 19, 1898, during the Philippine Revolution, the flag of the Katipunan was raised in the campanille and the church was ransacked (the original gold Episcopal crosier of the image of San Carlos as well as the gold jewelry pieces of the Lady of the Rosary and the Santo Niño were stolen).

2008 National Historical Institute (NHI) historical plaque

In the 20th century, the cogon roof was replaced with galvanized iron and, sometime in 1990, the choir was removed.  On July 31, 2001, the church was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines. 

June 2005 historical plaque

It has an espadaña-style façade similar to Basco Cathedral and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer in Sabtang, with two round arches at roof levels for the bells (one of which is dated 1874).  The outer walls have uneven wall thicknesses due to the addition of massive step buttresses that serve as stairways for servicing its then cogon-covered roof.   

Check out “Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception” and “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

The church interior

The church’s Baroque style interiors showcases floral designs with sunburst ornaments painted in polychrome and gilt, lending a golden glow among the statuary. On the center of the main retablo is the statue of St. Charles Borromeo (the patron saint) surrounded by statues of St. Joseph, St. Dominic de Guzman and St. Rose of Lima. Two side altars house the statue of the Our Lady of the Rosary, on the right, and of the Holy Child on the left.

The main altar

The second floor of the church convent, on the right side of the façade, is not the typical volada (cantilevered gallery) for convents in the Philippines but an open extended deck. At the back of the convent are remains of an old circular well. 

The left side altar

Within the church’s courtyard is a stone structure that once housed the beatario.  Elsewhere in the courtyard and the elementary school are Spanish-era stone lampposts said to have been used as guiding lights to guide fishermen and early mariners safely to the anchorage just beyond the town’s seaport. 

The right side altar

Church of St. Charles Borromeo: National Road, Brgy. Uvoy (Poblacion), Mahatao, 3901 Batanes. Mobile number: (0921) 766-2282. Feast of St. Charles Borromeo:  November 4.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Church of St. Charles Borromeo (Mahatao, Batanes)

Church of St. Charles Borromeo

From Maydangeb White Beach, we traveled the remaining 2.4 kms. (a 5-min. drive), to Mahatao town proper, making a stopover at the town’s Spanish-era Church of St. Charles Borromeo.

Check out “Maydangeb White Beach”

The church complex

The first church, made with light material and completed by Dominican friars in 1789, was destroyed by a strong typhoon in 1872 and the present structure was rebuilt, with stone and lime, in 1873 by Father Crescencio Polo, OP (who also remodeled the stone and mortar convent attached to the church).

Plaque installed by National Historical Institute in 2008

On September 19, 1898, during the Philippine Revolution, the flag of the Katipunan was raised in the campanille and the church was ransacked (the original gold Episcopal crosier of the image of San Carlos as well as the gold jewelry pieces of the Lady of the Rosary and the Santo Niño were stolen).

Plaque installed by National Commission for Culture and the Arts in June 2005

In the 20th century, the cogon roof was replaced with galvanized iron and, sometime in 1990, the choir was removed.  On July 31, 2001, the church was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines.

The church’s interior

It has an espadaña-style façade similar to Basco Cathedral and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer in Sabtang, with two round arches at roof levels for the bells (one of which is dated 1874).  The outer walls have uneven wall thicknesses due to the addition of massive step buttresses that serve as stairways for servicing its then cogon-covered roof.

Check out “Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception” and “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

The main altar

The church’s Baroque style interiors showcases floral designs with sunburst ornaments painted in polychrome and gilt, lending a golden glow among the statuary. On the center of the main retablo is the statue of St. Charles Borromeo (the patron saint) surrounded by statues of St. Joseph, St. Dominic de Guzman and St. Rose of Lima.

Right side altar housing statue of Our Lady of the Rosary

Two side altars house the statue of the Our Lady of the Rosary, on the right, and of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on the left.

Left side altar housing statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

The second floor of the church convent, on the right side of the façade, is not the typical volada (cantilevered gallery) for convents in the Philippines but an open extended deck. At the back of the convent are remains of an old circular well.

The church’s convent

Within the church’s courtyard is a stone structure that once housed the beatario.  Elsewhere in the courtyard and the elementary school are Spanish-era stone lampposts said to have been used as guiding lights to guide fishermen and early mariners safely to the anchorage just beyond the town’s seaport.

One of two Spanish-era stone lampposts

Church of St. Charles Borromeo: National Road, Brgy. Uvoy (Poblacion), Mahatao, 3901 Batanes. Mobile number: (0921) 766-2282. Feast of St. Charles Borromeo:  November 4.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Balanghai Shrine Museum (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Balanghai Shrine Museum

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After arrival and lunch at Almont Inland Resort, Jandy and I, accompanied by Mr. Carl Ballesteros and Ms. Debra Rutz Tanginan, Sales and Marketing Manager and Media Marketing Officer, respectively, of the resort, boarded a Starex van to begin our tour of Butuan City. From the resort, it was a 4.9 km. (15-min.) drive to the Balanghai Shrine Museum.

Located between the city and the airport, this small but innovative, one-storey open-air museum, a field museum of the National Museum of the Philippines, celebrates the rich maritime heritage of the Philippines.  Upon arrival, we were toured around the quaint little museum by the very able and knowledgeable Ms. Gloradel T. Tamayo.

Ms. Gloradel T. Tamayo

The museum displays, in a specially made glass case, is Butuan Boat No. 1, the more than 1,700-year old balanghai (or balangay), the oldest of nine boats discovered in September 6, 1976 by pothunters in search of Chinese ceramics at Brgy. Ambangan.  It originally measured around 10.2 m. (33 ft.) in length and has been dated to 777-988 CE. The timber used in its construction are identified as toog (Petersianthus quadrialatus),  narig (Vatica sp.), and lawaan (Shorea sp.).  Three of these water-logged timber boats have been excavated while the others are still in situ.

The 1,700 year old balangahai, the oldest of the nine discovered

Another view of the balanghai

On March 9, 1987, the balanghais were declared a National Cultural Treasure by virtue of Presidential Proclamation No. 86, series of 1986, signed by the late Pres. Corazon C. Aquino.   The establishment of the shrine was made possible by the donation of land by Felix A. Luna, a resident of the area, in 1979.

Photo of 1976 excavation

Photo of the balanghai found on site

These large sea-going wooden plank-built (Heretiara litorales, locally called dongon) and edge-pegged outrigger boats are 15 m. long and 3 m. wide across the beam.  Carbon-14 dating indicates it belongs to the 4th and 13th to 14th century AD. The oldest was dated to 320 AD by Tokyo’s Gakushuin Uniiversity.

The sugar palm fibers found on site

Sugar palm fibers, locally called cabo negro, hibyok or hidyop (Arenga piñata), were used to tie the boat planks together. Two others were dated to 990 and 1250 AD. These predate the relics of Viking ships in European museums and they represent the oldest fleet of boats excavated in one place.

Wooden coffins

Wooden coffins

Also on display are 3 m. long wooden coffins and deformed skulls (showing clear signs of cranial deformation, a cultural practice, at that time, either to signify group affiliation, social status or for aesthetic purpose) dating to the 14th and 15th centuries. The coffins were found 16 m. east of the boat, though proximate to the boat, the coffin burials have no chronological reference to the 12th and 13th century middle layer, being situated on the high ground beyond the eastern limits of the midden.

Deformed skulls

Infant skull

Displayed on the walls are actual photos of the 1976 to 1986 excavation as well as the rope used to tie the boat planks together.  At the back of the museum is the actual excavation site, a single trench, which is part of the Agusan River Delta System.  Another excavation site, not open to visitors, is located at the back of the Toyota Showroom. 

The excavation site today

  

Balangay Shrine Museum: 6th St., Sitio Ambangan, Brgy. Libertad, Butuan City, 8600 Agusan del Norte.  Mobile number (0919) 077-9854. E-mail: butuan@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Opened Tuesdays to Sundays (closed on Mondays), 9 AM to 5 PM.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  The museum is 5 kms. east of the city. From Gaisano Mall/Butuan City Integrated Transportation Terminal, take a tricycle (locally called a trisikad) to the museum.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Fort San Antonio Abad (Manila)

Fort San Antonio Abad

Relatively unknown to many, Manila has another Spanish-era fort, aside from the well-known Fort Santiago, located south of Intramuros and this one is not easy to visit as it is located within the confines of the high-security Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (BSP)  Complex – the 1.2-hectare, trapezoid-shaped  and equally historic but hidden Fort San Antonio Abad.

Exploring the fort with our guides

Considering its current location, tightly sandwiched between the imposing main tower of the BSP and the old Manila Metropolitan Museum  Building (now transferred to its new home at Bonifacio Global City in Taguig City), the fort is understandably overlooked these days.

Check out “Metropolitan Museum of Manila

Stairs leading up to the ramparts

Visits to the fort are by appointment and my son Jandy and I had to arrange our visit in advance via email.  It was only upon approval of our request that we were allowed to proceed to the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas Complex.  Upon registering ourselves, we met up with our guides, Ms. Regyn Avena and Mr. Lauro E. de los Santos, Jr. who were to tour us around the fort.

The view of the South Wall from the East Bastion

Also known as Fort Malate or Fort San Antonio, this fortification was completed in 1584 and named in honor of its patron saintSaint Anthony the Abbot (feast day: January 17).   Like the walled city, the fort evolved into a variety of stone fortress popularized by renowned French military architect Sebastien Le Prestre de Vauban, with two signature bastions at the corners of the canted walls.

The canted South Wall

Though relatively small in size, it certainly occupies a significant place in the history of Manila as it played a role in three great conflicts – the Seven Years’ War,e vents prior and during the Philippine–American War and World War II.  Located in what was then a separate hamlet of Malate, the fort served as a rear protection for the Manila as well as to guard the Manila–Cavite route.

The West Bastion at the North Wall

The Spanish used the fort as a polvorista (“little fortress” or gunpowder magazine to safely store gunpowder) known as Fuerte de Polverina.  On September 26, 1762, during the Seven Years’ War, it was captured by British forces under Rear-Admiral Samuel Cornish and Brigadier-General William Draper when they invaded Manila. They transformed the fort into a garrison, setting up an artillery battery.  From here, the British forces launched their land offensive against the Spaniards defending Intramuros.

The exquisitely designed North Entrance

On March 26, 1764, upon the end of the British occupation of Manila, the fort was returned to Spanish control and rebuilt, again becoming a gunpowder storage facility. On August 13, 1898, after bombardment by U.S. warships during the sham Battle of Manila, the fort was captured and the first American flag hoisted by the First Battalion of the First Colorado Volunteer Regiment under the command of Lt.-Col. Henry Bayard McCoy.

The grassy courtyard. On the left are the square embrasures

Also, during the Philippine–American War, U.S. military authorities used the prison to carry out multiple executions by hanging. Harry Cline, an American civilian under the employment of the United States Army, was the first American to be executed by U.S. authorities after he shot, with a revolver, four small Filipino boys from Parañaque gathering grass, wounding three and killing the fourth (Agaton Rivera) on April 8, 1901. Cline was tried by an American military court, found guilty of murder and three counts of assault with intent to kill, and sentenced to death by hanging which was carried out  on September 20, 1901.

The fort ramparts

During World War II, Fort San Antonio Abad was seized by occupying Japanese  troops and it was used as a bunker, with a cannon installed. During the Liberation of Manila, the fort suffered considerable damage.  After World War II, the very young Offshore Patrol, with the Manila Naval Station (MNS) as its main support unit, set up its headquarters at the fort. They vacated the place in 1965.

The now unused well with windlass

On June 1974, coinciding with the establishment of the new main office complex of the BSP, the restoration of the fort was again started (the first restoration was at the beginning of the 19th century) by Architect Carlos E. Da Silva, during the term of former Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas Gov. Gregorio S. Licaros, and completed in 1976.

1976 Restoration Plaque

This battle-weary and proud structure is now a beautiful little park and events place with paved walkways and street lamps. Where guards once stood, there are now roaming gardeners keeping the manicured garden trim. Within the garden is a now unused well with a windlass for raising water.

National Historical Treasure plaque

In 2018, together with Intramuros (collectively known as the “Fortifications of Manila”), the fort was named a National Cultural Treasure (NCT), for their architectural, historical, scientific and archaeological significance, by the National Museum of the Philippines. Both forts were essential parts of the defense of Spanish Colonial Manila and scientifically important in terms of military and structural engineering. The NCT marker is now installed there and in Plaza Roma in Intramuros.

The unadorned south entrance. In my opinion, this entrance seems like a recent addition as there as its walls show no signs of weathering

At the fort’s south entrance, two historical plaques (the 1976 renovation plaque and the NCT plaque) are mounted.  A Historical Research and Markers Committee (now the National Historical Commission of the Philippines) marker, installed  in 1937, is mounted on the wall to the right of this entrance, is topped by a semicircular arch niche, flanked by Doric columns, with an antique wooden statue of St. Anthony Abbot within.

Niche with statue of St. Anthony Abbot

In turn, the niche is framed by a decorative moldings ending in scrolls. The original segmental arched main entrance of the fort, with its quaint iron gate, faces north.  This latter entrance is decorated with a bas-relief of the traditional Spanish coat of arms of Leon (the lion) and Castille (the castle) and topped by finials.

Bas-relief bearing the Spanish coat of arms at the North Entrance

The fort can be quickly explored in less than half an hour. At the lower level of the fort are a series of square embrasures, openings in fort’s walls where cannons can be fired.  These openings, flared outward to enlarge their field of fire, once faced the sea but are now facing the back of the museum.

One of the fort’s embrasures

You can walk around the entire wall perimeter via very narrow, 2-foot wide ramparts which can be reached via stone steps. Standing on either side of the fort, on arrowhead-shaped bulwarks (East and West), are two large, sea-facing naval guns which were damaged when the American Air Force bombed the fort during the 1945 Liberation of Manila in World War II.

William Armstrong gun at the East Bastion

Cast by Sir William Armstrong & Co. (England), these two 19th century, rifled breech-loading guns, weighing 20,238 and 20,220 pounds respectively, had a bore of 8 inches.  The original gun carriages are now gone (probably destroyed during the bombing or have rotted away) and have been replaced by concrete supports.

Pockmarked William Armstrong gun at West Bastion

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS:

After our visit to the fort, I can’t help but notice the differences between the plain looking south entrance and the exuberantly decorated north entrance.  Plus, I also can’t help but notice the seemingly misplaced bas-re;ief, with its statued niche, to the right of the south entrance.  This has got me thinking.

Could the south entrance have been originally located just below this bas-relief? It would make sense as statues of saints in niches or in bas-reliefs are usually placed above the entrances of churches and forts (even Fort Santiago has a bas relief of St. James the Moor Slayer, its patron saint, above its main entrance) to watch over those who enter.  Probably the lower and narrower entrance (suitable for wagons), with its pilasters, must have been walled up and a new, simple but higher and wider square opening was created, during the American era, a few meters beside it, possibly to allow tall and wide-bodied vehicles such as trucks to pass through.  I wonder ……..

For me, this makes sense…..

Fort San Antonio Abad: Banko Sentral ng Pilipinas Complex, Malate, Manila 1004.  E-mail corporateaffairs@bsp.gov.ph (to arrange for a visit).

Bateria (San Esteban, Ilocos Sur)

Moro Watchtower (Bateria)

Part of Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant-sponsored tour

This old but very pretty, 10.4-m. high, circular Spanish-era watchtower, located on a park at the headland of the sandy cove, is one of four Spanish-era watchtowers in Ilocos Sur (the others are located in Santiago, Narvacan and Bantay).  Visible from Villa Quirino Point, it is the oldest landmark of San Esteban (Ilocos Sur).

Built by Augustinian Fr. Damaso Vieytez OSA (who became the first parish priest of San Esteban in 1848), Don Agustin Santiago and Don Domingo Sumabas, it has a diameter of approximately 8.5 m. and was built with sandstone, lime and mortar.

Historical marker. In my opinion, the 16th century date of construction is wrong. Should be the 19th century

A major landmark of the town, it was also called the Moro Watchtower and is one of the most intact Spanish-era watchtowers in the country.

The free standing concrete platform supported by concrete columns. In the middle is a skylight to illuminate the lower level. The platform is accessed by s steel stairway.

Accessed by a steel stairway, it has one entrance and a crenellated top where a row of cannons were once installed (hence the name bacteria, the Spanish word for “battery”).  Today, only tower viewer binoculars are installed.

View of the lower level from the skylight

The Philippine Tourism Authority ((now the Tourism Infrastructure and Enterprise Zone Authority or TIEZA) has declared it as a Tourism Site and it has been registered in the National Historical Institute (NHI), now the National Historical Commission  of the Philippines (NHCP).   In December 2015 , the National Museum of the Philippines declared it as a National Cultural Treasure (Category I).

The concrete platform with stainless steel railings

In 2016, it was renovated by the National Historical Commission  of the Philippines (NHCP) who, together with the local government, also made improvements of the park including the addition of concrete picnic tables.  The banyan tree which once grew around the tower is now gone.

View of the sea from the watchtower

View of the shoreline and the park

Bateria: Brgy. Bateria, San Esteban, 2706 Ilocos Sur. Admission is free.

Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant: Sabangan Beach, Brgy. Sabangan, Santiago 2707, Ilocos Sur.  Mobile number: (0917) 115-4495 (Globe), (0917) 654-2078 (Globe), (0968) 851-5446 (Smart) and (0955) 773-9793 (Rodrigo’s).  E-mail: hsantiagocovehotel@gmail.com.

Old Senate Session Hall (National Museum of Fine Arts, Manila)

Old Senate Session Hall

The historic Old Senate Session Hall, considered the core of the then Legislative Building (now the National Museum of Fine Arts), was home to members of the Philippine Senate from 1926 to 1996.  It had been a silent witness to history as senators, from various eras, debated and charted the future of the Philippines, from the country’s growing clamor for full independence from the United States in the 1930s to its rejection of a new US bases treaty in 1992. Directly below the Senate Session Hall is another hall once used by members of Congress. It has since been converted to a gallery displaying Juan Luna’s “Spoliarium.”

Check out “Old Legislative Building,” “National Museum of Fine Arts” and “Spoliarium Hall

Ceiling and entablature with garlands and relief sculptures

The old Senate Session Hall was designed by American architect Ralph Harrington Doane (part of the team of architect and urban planner Daniel Burnham and a consultant to the Bureau of Public Works, a precursor of the Department of Public Works and Highways) as a high-ceiling reading room. Heavily damaged during the American liberation of Manila in 1945, the Legislative Building was in near ruins but, for some reason, the Session Hall remained intact, with only its intricately carved hardwood ceiling blown off.

Plaque installed by National Historical Institute

When the newly independent postwar government worked on rebuilding the structure, it was able to restore much of the Session Hall to its original state.

Bust of Manuel L. Quezon

Here, then Senator Benigno “Ninoy” Aquino Jr. and his allies in the opposition delivered privilege speeches during the run-up to martial law in 1972.  When martial law was declared, it was closed and later turned into one of the National Museum’s galleries during the remainder of the Marcos years. During the Marcos era, the Batasan Pambansa in Quezon City housed the parliament.

When democracy was restored after the People Power Revolution in 1986, the Senate and Congress returned to their old homes in the Legislative Building. In 1996, after the Senate moved to its new home at the GSIS Building in Pasay City, the old Session Hall was closed again.

In April 2010, work on the Session Hall’s (Php20 million) two-year restoration started, with funding coming from 2011 National Museum endowment fund (Php6 million) of the Philippine Amusement and Gaming Corp. (PAGCOR), and Php14 million from the museum’s 2012 budget. They also tapped the expertise of the museum’s four heritage architects led by Evelyn Esguerra.

During the in-house restoration project, the National Museum’s Jeremy Barns (director) and Ana Labrador (assistant director) pored over old pictures in their attempt to produce a newly restored Session Hall that’s as close as possible to the original. Its prewar look became the peg of the restoration work. Barns and Labrador chose the 1930s, because it was during this period that the country’s independence movement started to intensify.

Relief Sculptures by Isabelo Tampinco

However, in the absence of detailed pictures of the original, they left the venue’s less ornate postwar ceiling intact. Workers searched in vain for murals (painted by architect Juan M. Arellano), between the overhead concrete fretwork, that might be hidden underneath layers of old paint. In the end, the pair decided to simply give both the ceiling and spaces between the statues a fresh coat of the standard, rich color paint for nearly all public buildings during the Philippine Commonwealth period paint (which Barns described as a “Bureau of Public Works cream”).

Relief sculptures by Isabelo Tampinco

The already structurally unsound wooden parquet flooring on the first level, not part of the Session Hall’s original design, was also removed.  In keeping with the Session Hall’s original look, they decided to go for vibrant red floors (sealed with epoxy) and baseboards. A series of damaged concrete balustrades that bore the weight of a wooden floor that bisected the 15 m. high Session Hall was replaced with faithful reproductions crafted by House of Precast.  The team also replaced the venue’s lighting system and had a more modern, energy-efficient air-con system installed.

Filipino Struggles Through History by Carlos “Botong” V. Francisco

Windows that were permanently locked from the outside (because of a concrete barrier) were replaced and opened up. Workers also had to fashion, upon Barns’ instructions, a French-type window that leads to an outdoor veranda. On October 29, 2012, during a celebration of the museum’s 111th anniversary, the refurbished hall was opened.

Filipino Struggles Through History by Carlos “Botong” V. Francisco

Currently a venue for events that are of national importance, the Old Senate Session Hall features modern and contemporary Philippine art from the 20th to the 21st centuries. All the ornamentation and decoration in this Hall were done by leading Filipino prewar sculptor Isabelo Tampinco who created these figures with the help of his sons, Angel and Vidal, who inherited their father’s artistry and skills.

Filipino Struggles Through History by Carlos “Botong” V. Francisco

These exceptional, restored masterpieces make up an entablature of garlands and Filipinized, classical relief sculptures of great lawmakers, moralists, philosophers and various historical figures in history, from Biblical times to the 20th century, such as Apolinario Mabini, Pope Leo XIII, Woodrow Wilson, Moses, Hammurabi, Ramses the Great, and Charlemagne.

Filipino Struggles Through History by Carlos “Botong” V. Francisco

This hall also features seven of the ten panels of “Filipino Struggles Through History” (also known as “History of Manila”), the monumental series of paintings by National Artist Carlos “Botong” V. Francisco (1912-1969) commissioned in 1968 for the Manila City Hall by Mayor  Antonio J. Villegas.  The last three panels, depicting Mayor Antonio J. Villegas‘ vision for the city of Manila, are exhibited at Gallery XIII, within the same museum’s Vicente and Carmen Fabella Hall.

Check out “Gallery XIII

Commemorative plaque of the “Filipino Struggles Through History,” by Carlos “Botong” V. Francisco, being declared as a National Cultural Treasure

The artwork was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by then National Museum director Gabriel S. Casal on April 8, 1996. They collectively measure 2.7 m. (8.9 ft.) high and 79.4 m. (260 ft.) wide.

National Museum of Fine Arts: Padre Burgos Avenue, Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 8527-1215 and (632) 8298-1100.  Email: inquiry@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Website: nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 4PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 14°35′13″N 120°58′52″E.

Church of St. Matthias (Tumauini, Isabela)

Church of St. Matthias

The notable, Roman Catholic Church of St. Matthias (SpanishIglesia Parroquial de San Matías), within the jurisdiction of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan, is the best-preserved church complex in Isabela.  Known for its brick, Baroque-style architecture, it is considered to be the best and most artistic brick structure in the country.

The church complex

Tumauini became a separate parish independent from Cabagan  in 1751. Dedicated to Saint Matthias, it was first built in nipa and other light materials by Dominican Fr. Francisco Nunez in 1707.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (NHI) in 1989

In 1733, it was rebuilt by Dominican Fr. Domingo Forto who hired artisans from as far south as Pampanga. It was continued in 1788 by Fr. Antonio Herrera and was completed in 1805.

The celebrated circular bell tower

During the Second World War, the church was damaged by American bombing but a faithful reconstruction program followed, with undamaged parts of the church building retained.

Buttresses supporting the side of the church

On February 24, 1989, it was made a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines. The church is now listed by the National Museum of the Philippines as a National Cultural Treasure.

A buttress with steps integrated into it for servicing the roof

Since 2006, together with the churches of Patrocinio de María in BoljoonCebuLa Inmaculada Concepción in GuiuanSamarSan Pedro Ápostol in LobocBohol and San Isidro Labrador in LaziSiquijor, the Tumauini Church has been considered for the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List under the collective group of Baroque Churches of the Philippines (Extension).

Paired Corinthian columns at the facade

This foremost example of ecclesiastical ultra-Baroque architecture in the country is unique for its extensive use of different types of baked red clay brick both for its delicate wall finishing and ornamentation.

Finials crowning the wavy silhouette of the facade

Since stones of good quality couldn’t be found in the area, bricks were used instead and artisans from Pampanga were hired to craft the wooden moldings for the clay inset of the bricks for the façade. Each brick was numbered in the design.

Niche with a statue of a headless saint

Its architecture bears Chinese influence. The façade,  flanked by two pseudo-Corinthian columns and niches (one located above the entrance and the two remaining larger niches on each side of the columns), has a circular pediment that is unique relative to all other churches built during the Spanish Era.

A rather unusual “3” molding

The church’s ornately designed clay bricks were individually designed, prepared, fired, customized to fit the wall, and numbered and dated for the correct sequence respectively for construction purposes.

Bas relief of flowers

They come to life in concentric circles with spiral curves on the finials crowning the wavy silhouette of the facade whose centerpiece is a rose window on the circular pediment which is flanked by pinnacled steps terminating into a coil.

Bas relief of St. Andrew

Serpentine reliefs and many finely molded details: flowers, foliage, wheels, ovules, hearts, sunbursts, squares and circles, oblongs and rectangles, curlicues; three long garlands, vegetal forms, clam shells, also adorn the facade.

Bas relief of a sunburst

Bas relief of a wheel

Statued niches of saints (one headless) also flank the semicircular, richly-molded arched doorway.   

Bas relief of a headless cherub

There are also eight pilasters; six mini reliefs of saints and cherubim (one cherub defaced). At the end walls is a rather unusual “3” molding.

Bas relief of flowers

The adjoining unique, four-storey, unique cylindrical bell tower, built in 1805, is the only known Spanish colonial era cylindrical tower in the country.

Bas relief of garlands decorating the perimeter of the circular tower

The tiered belfry notably resembles a wedding cake.  Its bell has bullet holes but was never recast.

The church interior

Its interior has no retablo (altar backpiece), just a simple altar under an ornate, white dome and the Crucified Lord against the brick wall.

The retablo-less main altar

Also inside are 24 symmetrically arranged, Neo-Corinthian faux columns and ten arched windows with white-green-yellow stained-glass panes adorned with yellow and blue clam shells and red crosses.

Symmetrically arranged Neo-Corinthian faux columns

The ruins of the church’s convento (clergy house), located on the gospel side of the church, has a vaulted ceiling that still has impressions of the mats used in construction as forms to mold wet plaster.

The front garden has a low, undulating brick wall.

Part of the undulating, low brick wall

Church of St. Matthias: National Highway, Brgy. Annafunan, Tumauini 3325, Isabela.  Mobile number: (0927) 791-5490.  Feast of St. Mathias: May 14.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com.

How to Get There: Tumauini is located 451.1 kms. (a 9-hour drive) from Manila and 38.6 kms. (a 1-hour drive) northwest of Ilagan  City.