Ross Fountain (Edinburgh, Scotland, UK)

Ross Fountain with Edinburgh Castle in the background

The highlight of our visit to the Princes Street Gardens was our photo ops at the Ross Fountain, the focus of the western end of the gardens and the park’s most important monument.  This fountain, made from cast-iron, is a shining example of magnificent  19th century sculpture.  Photographs of the view up to the famous Edinburgh Castle from the Gardens, with this fountain in the foreground, has featured heavily in some of the iconic imagery of Edinburgh over the years.

Check out “Princes Street Gardens

At an exhibit at the Great Exhibition of 1862, an exhibition of modern art, technology and invention in London, it was purchased, on a moment of impulse and as a philanthropic gesture, by Edinburgh gunsmith Daniel Ross (who described it as “obtaining universal admiration”), in September 1869, for £2,000 and, subsequently, gifted to the city of Edinburgh.

The four female, greater than life size figures representing Science, Arts, Poetry, and Industry

That same year, it was transported to Leith, in 122 individual pieces, but sat in storage for a decade while the city council considered where they were going to put it. In 1872, it was reassembled, in its current position, at Princes Street Gardens, only a few hundred yards from the Ross Bandstand. Sadly, David Ross died in January 1871, one year before, missing the opportunity to see the masterpiece displayed in the gardens.

Some of the 8 voluptuous mermaid statues, with bared flesh, holding overflowing urns, and sitting on scallop-shell basins with lion’s heads between

In 2001, as broken pipes had made the fountain inoperational, the fountain had some extensive restoration work completed. In 2008, water was turned off and, from July 2017, it was closed again for further restoration work, costing 1.9 million pounds, undertaken by Lost Art Limited of Wigan on behalf of The Ross Development Trust. On July 8, 2018, it was re-inaugurated by Lord Provost Frank Ross and others, including the Head of Mission at the French Consulate in Edinburgh Emmanuel Cocher.

The beautifully modeled and semi-naked female figure, holding the topmost cornucopia, which scandalized Victorian Edinburgh at the time.

The fountain, now with a new pump that will be switched on permanently, is now painted in eye-catching turquoise, brown and gold which, according to the organizers, should last for at least 20 years. The figures were sculpted by artist Jean-Baptiste Jules Klagmann (b. April 1810) whose other work includes figures for the Louvre and D’ Medici fountains in Luxembourg Gardens in Paris.  It is also unusual in that, rather than having been produced by one of the great Scottish foundries of the day, it was produced at the iron foundry of  Antoine Durenne, ‘Maitre de Forges, Sommevoire Haute Marne’ in SommevoireFrance.

The fountain’s circular basin has curved Craigleith sandstone edges and the first elevated basin is decorated with stylized “walrus” heads round the edge. The first tier of the central column has 8 voluptuous mermaid statues, with bared flesh, holding overflowing urns, and sitting on scallop-shell basins with lion’s heads between. Swags and cornucopia abound, and the bowls above have cherub-faced spouts.

The author (right) with Jandy and Grace (photo: Selena Sta. Maria))

Near the top, with water basins held up by mermaid children, are four female greater than life size figures representing Science, Arts, Poetry, and Industry seated between semicircular basins. The structure is surmounted by a final, beautifully modeled and semi-naked female figure, holding the topmost cornucopia, which scandalized Victorian Edinburgh at the time. All this combines to produce a fountain that is over 40 ft. high and over 100 tons in weight. 

Ross Fountain: West Princes Street Gardens, Princes Street EH2 2HG, Edinburgh. Tel: 0131 529 7921. E-mail: parks@edinburgh.gov.uk.

Princes Street Gardens (Edinburgh, Scotland, UK)

Princes Street Gardens

Our third (and first and only whole) day in Edinburgh, we planned to visit Edinburgh Castle but, as it was still very early in the morning (the castle opens at 10 AM), we decided to visit and explore the 150,000 sq. m. (37-acre) Princes Street Gardens, one of two adjacent public parks (East Princes Street Gardens and West Princes Street Gardens) and one of the most important urban parks in the center of Edinburgh.

The National Gallery of Scotland (left) and the Royal Scottish Academy (right) buildings

Lying in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle (on its rock towering above the western end), the gardens, running along the south side of Princes Street, is divided into two parts by The Mound, an artificial hill, on which the National Gallery of Scotland and the Royal Scottish Academy buildings are located, that connects the city’s New Town and Old Town.

Check out “National Gallery of Scotland”

St. John’s Church

Lying at center of Edinburgh’s World Heritage Site, set in the valley between New Town and Old Town Outstanding Conservation Areas (the boundary between the two areas being the north fence of the railway), the Princes Street Gardens is in the very center of Edinburgh’s World Heritage Site.

L-R: Paula, Manny, Jandy, Grace and the author at Princes Street Gardens. In the background is St. Cuthbert’s Parish Church

Its landscape, of outstanding refinement and cultural significance, has high geological and some botanical scientific interest. One of the New Town Gardens listed in the Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscape in Scotland, it was assessed as outstanding in terms of aesthetic, historical, architectural and scenic values.

Ross Fountain with Edinburgh Castle in the background

The central location of the Gardens makes it a popular choice having the highest awareness and visitor figures for both residents and visitors to the city. Awarded a Green Flag since 2011, the park is beautiful all year round.

Gardener’s Cottage

East Princes Street Gardens run from The Mound to Waverley Bridge, and cover 3.4 ha. (8.5 acres) while the larger West Princes Street Gardens covers 12 ha. (29 acres) and extends to the adjacent churches of St. John’s and St. Cuthbert’s, near Lothian Road in the west.

Check out “St. Cuthbert Parish Church”

The Scott Monument

The Gardens were created in the 1820s following the long draining of the Nor Loch and building of the New Town, beginning in the 1760s.  Situated on the north side of the town, the loch,  originally an artificial creation forming part of its medieval defenses, has made expansion northwards difficult and its water was habitually polluted from sewage draining downhill from the Old Town. The Princes Street Gardens has a diverse and fascinating collection of public monuments and memorials. Dating mainly from the 1840s to 1990s, there are three types.

Sir James Young Simpson Monument

The first group commemorates influential Scottish men of the 18th and 19th centuries. In the East Princes Street Gardens are the Scott Monument (the most prominent in the garden, this Neo-Gothic spire was built in 1844 to honor Sir Walter Scott) and the statue of explorer David Livingstone.  Also within East Princes Street Gardens are statues of the publisher Lord Provost Adam Black and Professor John Wilson (the essayist who wrote under the pseudonym Christopher North).

Thomas Guthrie Monument

The second group remembers those who have died fighting in wars, including the Royal Scots Greys Regimental Memorial and the Scottish American War Memorial (designed by R. Tait McKensie, it was erected in 1927). The Royal Scots Monument, a large curved monument to the Royal Scots, stands slightly hidden just south of the very picturesque gardener’s cottage at the east end of the West Princes Gardens. Designed by Sir Frank Mears, with sculpture by Pilkington Jackson, it was described as a “modern henge.”   Dating from 1950, it was added to and “finalized” in May 2007 following the termination of the Royal Scots in 2006. This added additional Battle Honors gained since the 1950s.

Monument of the Royal Scots

The third group includes miscellaneous sculptures and monuments such as the cast iron Ross Fountain The focus of the western end of the gardens, the newly refurbished fountain is the park’s most important monument.  Gifted by Edinburgh gunsmith Daniel Ross, this structure was originally installed in 1872, after having been an exhibit at the Great Exposition of 1862 in London, and repaired, restored and unveiled on July 8, 2018 with the help of The Ross Development Trust.

Check out “Ross Fountain

The Genius of Architecture crowning the Theory and Practice of Art

At the eastern entrance to the Gardens is the world renowned Floral Clock.  The world’s first floral clock, it was first planted in 1903 and each year the planting scheme, designed by the Technical team in the Parks and Greenspace Service, commemorates a special anniversary. The designs of the colorful displays uses a variety of 30,000 flower and foliage plants (including annuals such as Lobelia, Pyrethrum and Golden Moss and succulents such as Echeveria and Sedum), all of a dwarf nature, suitable for carpet bedding.

Ross Theatre

Along the south side of Princes Street are many statues and monuments such as statues of the poet Allan Ramsay, the church reformer Thomas Guthrie, and the obstetric pioneer James Young Simpson. Within East Princes Street Gardens is a small commemorative stone honoring the volunteers from the Lothians and Fife who fought in the Spanish Civil War.

Mortonhall Baby Ashes Memorial

In the center of the West Princes Street Gardens is the Ross Bandstand, named after William Henry Ross (Chairman of the Distillers Company Ltd.) who, in 1877, gifted the first bandstand on the site. The Princes Street proprietors contributed £500 as a goodwill gesture to the cost of the bandstand. The present building and terraces, dating from 1935, is the site of various concerts and other events including the Festival Fireworks Concert, Men’s Health Survival of the Fittest and during the city’s Hogmanay celebrations. The Ross Development Trust proposed to rebuild the bandstand as a Ross Pavilion based on design by architects wHY following an international competition in 2017.

The Royal Scots Greys Monument

The Genius of Architecture, a statuary group on the lower path, represents crowning the Theory and Practice of Art.   Designed by William Brodie originally for the garden of Rockville, the home of his maverick architect son-in-law Sir James Gowans, it was moved here in the 1960s following the demolition of Rockville.   Nearby is the Mortonhall Baby Ashes Memorial, a new monument in the form of a baby elephant by sculptor Andy Scott.  Added to the gardens on February 2, 2019, it is a permanent reminder of the 250 babies and their families affected by the Mortonhall scandal, which was uncovered in 2012.

Norwegian Brigade Memorial

Other statues and memorials include the Norwegian Brigade War Memorial (donated in 1978 by Norwegian veterans trained in Scotland during the Second World War) and the bronze statue, unveiled in 2015, of Wojtek the Bear, a Syrian brown bear adopted by the Polish II Corps during World War II, with a fellow Polish Army soldier walking together.

Wojtek The Soldier Bear Memorial

Princes Street Gardens: Princes Street EH2 2HG, Edinburgh. Tel: 0131 529 7921. E-mail: parks@edinburgh.gov.uk

Buchart Gardens (Victoria, British Columbia, Canada)

Butchart Gardens

From Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal, Grace, Jandy, Cheska, Kyle and I, with our dog Luffy, rode on a double-decker Bus 72 (we missed the direct, one-hour Bus 81), operated by Victoria Regional Transit System, for the nearly 40-min. drive to Saanichton then transferred to a single-deck Bus 75 for the nearly 30-min. drive to get to the world-renowned Butchart Gardens, an absolute must see when traveling to Victoria.

Butchart garden Sign. L-R: the author, Jandy, Kyle and Grace

The lush, 22.3-hectare (55-acre) Butchart Gardens, a group of floral display gardens, located on the Saanich Peninsula, near Victoria on Vancouver Island, has delighted visitors from all around the world with its over a million awe-inspiring bedding blooms (in some 900 varieties) and unique plantings, receiving over a million visitors each year.

The iconic water wheel

It is consistently rated among the world’s most beautiful garden attractions and top places to go to in Canada by USA TodayCNN TravelCondé NastNational GeographicTripadvisor and Frommer’s and more.

Waterwheel Square

Started by Robert Pim Butchart (1856–1943) and his wife Jennie Butchart (1866–1950), ownership of The Gardens still remains within the Butchart family and, since 2001, the owner and managing director is Robin-Lee Clarke, the Butcharts’ great-granddaughter.

Here is the historical timeline of the gardens:

  • In 1888, Robert Pim Butchartbegan manufacturing Portland cement  near his birthplace of Owen SoundOntario, Canada. He and his wife Jennie Butchart came to the west coast of Canada because of its rich limestone deposits necessary for cement production.
  • In 1904, they established their home near his quarry on Tod Inlet at the base of the Saanich Peninsulaon Vancouver Island.
  • In 1908, the Bucharts named their home “Benvenuto” (“welcome” in Italian)
  • In 1909, when the limestone quarry was exhausted, Jennie wanted to recreate some natural beauty from the remains of her husband’s mined-out industrial quarry site so she set about turning it into the Sunken Garden, transferring top soil by horse and cart. She commissioned Isaburo Kishida, a 67 year-old garden designer from YokohamaJapan (he built a wildly popular tea gardenfor Esquimalt Gorge Park in 1907) before he returned to Japan in 1912.
  • In 1921, the Sunken Garden was completed and they began to receive visitors to their gardens.
  • In 1926, they replaced their tennis courts with an Italian garden
  • In 1929, the Bucharts replaced their kitchen vegetable garden with a large rose garden to the design of Butler Sturtevantof Seattle. Samuel Maclure, who was consultant to the Butchart Gardens, reflected the aesthetic of the English Arts and Crafts Movement.
  • In 1939, they gave the Gardens to their grandson Robert Ian Ross (1918–1997) on his 21st birthday. Ross was involved in the operation and promotion of the gardens until his death 58 years later.
  • In 1946, Ann-Lee Ross, Robert Ian Ross’ wife, opened the Benvenuto Tea House (now called the Dining Room) and continued the tradition of serving afternoon teato guests.
  • In 1953, to mark the 50th anniversary of The Gardens, miles of underground wiring were laid to provide night illumination.
  • In 1964, the ever-changing Ross Fountain was installed in the lower reservoir to celebrate the 60th anniversary.
  • In 1977, during summer Saturday evenings, Christopher Ross (1944–2000), Robert Ian Ross’s son, introduced firework shows accompanied by show tunes, choreographing them until his death in 2000.
  • In 1982, the Butchart Gardens was used as the inspiration for the gardens at the Canadianpavilion opened at Epcot Centre in Orlando Florida.
  • In 1993, to commemorate their 50th wedding anniversary, the “Circle of Doves,” given by Ann-Lee Ross to her husband Ian in 1991, was installed in front of the Begonia Bower.
  • In 1994, the Canadian Heraldic Authoritygranted a coat of arms to the Butchart Gardens.
  • On September 9, 2004, two totem poles were installed and dedicated to mark the 100th anniversary.
  • That same year, The Gardens were designated as a National Historic Site of Canada.
  • In the summer of 2008, The Gardens introduced the Jennie B, an electrically driven 12-passenger boat, which plies the local coastlines in the summer giving visitors an appreciation of the waterside history plus coastal aquatic plants and animals.
  • On December 1, 2009 the Children’s Pavilion and the Rose (or Menagerie) Carousel were opened to the public.

Begonia Bower

While Jennie Butchart collected plants, Robert Pim Butchart collected ornamental birds from all over the world (he had a parrot in the house, ducks in the Star Pond and peacocks on the front lawn). Robert also built several elaborate birdhouses for the gardens and trained pigeons on the site of the present-day Begonia Bower.

In the early days, Mr. and Mrs. Butchart often hosted weekly symphony concerts for guests of the family but, later, attracted a larger audience. More recently, during the summer season (July and August) and the winter holiday season, they provide a wide range of local entertainment, from jazz to classical music.

Also, The Weeds (a band made up of staff members from The Gardens) sometimes plays during the summer season, During winter, lights and seasonal decorations adorn the gardens along with an ice-skating rink in the Waterwheel Square.

Upon payment of the admission fee, we were ushered into Waterwheel Square, our starting point, which was aptly named after a lovely waterwheel beside the entrance. The statue of a wild boar, in the heart of the square, was cast in Florence by Ferdinando Marinelli Artistic Foundry and purchased in 1973 during a family trip to Italy and installed the next year.

Butchart Boar

The snout of this replica of the Cinghiale, a 1620 marble statue (displayed in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence) by Pietro Tacca (in honor of the sculptor, it is called “Tacca”) is, just like the original, shiny from the many visitors rubbing it for good luck. In front of the residence is another nearby statue, by Sirio Tofanari, of a donkey and foal.

Check out “Uffizi Gallery

Donkey and Foal (Sirio Tofanari)

Buchart Gardens encompasses five separate gardens: the Sunken Gardens, the Rose Garden, the Japanese Garden, the Italian garden and the Mediterranean Garden.   To keep these gardens looking impeccable, they have 26 greenhouses and employ 50 full-time gardeners, 12 part-time gardeners as well as 550 staff during peak season.  With regards irrigation supply, the gardens are entirely self-sufficient as, every year, millions of liters of rainwater are collected, via runoff, from the parking lots and stored in a number of reservoirs and wells.

Laurel Walk

From the flower-lined Laurel Walk, a pathway on the left led to the Begonia Bower which was overflowing with hanging baskets of begonias and fuchsias. Designed in 1917 by Samuel Maclure as a “Chinaman’s Cottage,” it was later renamed the Gardener’s Cottage, circa 1950.

Above the Sunken Garden

Past the Laurel Walk is the top of “the Mound,” a massive limestone rock embankment (designed by Raoul Robillard) rising, above the switch back stairs, from the center of the iconic, 5-acre Sunken Gardens, the crown jewel of the Butchart Gardens.

The pair of Arbor vitae trees

Flanking the main path are an iconic pair of Thuja occidentalis Fastigiata trees (Arbor vitae), commonly called the “tree of life,” planted by Jennie in 1930 (they are now on their third pair). The Mound has spectacular views of the garden including the tall chimney of the long vanished kiln. To the left of the cement stack are six Lombardy poplars (Populas nigra italica) planted by Jennie in 1910 to hide the cement factory.

Once a pile of rock and rubble, the quiet and peaceful Sunken Garden is, as the name suggests, located below road level. The first land reclamation project in the world, the garden, dotted with benches, boasts 151 flower beds, 65,000 bulbs planted for spring and cradles an impressive assortment of flowers, trees and shrubs.

The Sunken Garden

A path, from here, winds past the undulating and spectacular Ross Fountain, installed in 1964 by Robert Ian Ross (Jennie and Robert’s grandson) to celebrate the 60th anniversary of The Butchart Gardens.  The fountain is surrounded by a rotating selection of seasonal blooms.

Ross Fountain

In summer, during The Gardens Night Illuminations displays, it comes alive as magical lighting effects dance across its waters.  Another path leads to the serene pond of the Bog Garden which is surrounded by weeping-willows.

Bog Garden

From the Sunken Garden, a path led us, half-way through The Gardens, to the 700 sq. m. (7,500 sq. ft.) Children’s Pavilion, which has a dome with a 23-m. (75 ft.) clear span, a full-fronted glass façade and a roof planted with native plant species.  It also has an event room for such things as children’s birthday parties.  Annabelle, the elegant bronze carousel horse sculpted by Nathan Scott, is located next to the pavilion.

Children’s Pavilion

Housed within is the popular Rose (or Menagerie) Carousel, the only carousel on Vancouver Island.  The carousel was crafted by Brass Ring Entertainment of Sun Valley, California.  The brightly painted and hand-carved wooden menagerie, mirroring the world from which The Gardens draws its visitors, includes thirty animals ranging from bears, to horses, to ostriches, to zebras, to cats.

Rose (or Menagerie) Carousel

In consultation with an artist from North Carolina, Robin Clarke (the gardens’ owner and great-granddaughter of Jennie Butchart) handpicked the design of each animal carving.  Done by some of the few remaining carvers of carousel art, they were carved from basswood and took many months to complete. There are also two chariots able to accommodate disabled persons.  Kyle didn’t want to miss out on the carousel so, accompanied by Jandy, tried it out ($2 per person).

Concert Lawn and Stage

Across from the pavilion is the Concert Lawn and Stage.  Here, between 1953 and 1967, the Victoria Symphony Orchestra (conducted by Hans Gruber), under the sponsorship of Mr. and Mrs. Ian Ross, performed summer concerts on the main lawn. The concerts also featured many international artists such as Teresa Stratas, Bernard Turgeon and Grace Bumbry. On occasion, guest conductors were also invited to lead the orchestra.

Organ Pavilion

Nearby is the Organ Pavilion, the original dairy barn which now houses the Aeolian Pipe Organ played at The Butchart Gardens. Fully playable manually, this organ boasts just under one thousand individual pipes, a set of twenty tubular chimes and a forty-nine note percussive harp.

California Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens, 1934)

Located on a back path behind the Concert Lawn are tallest of two California redwoods (Sequioia sempervirens) which were planted as seedlings Afred Shiner, former Head Gardener, in 1934.

Totem poles

Another path led us to two 9.1 m. (30-ft.) high and 1.2-m. (4-ft.) wide totem poles dedicated on September 9, 2004 in celebration of the 100th anniversary of The Butchart Gardens, they are a recognition of the rich cultural heritage provided by the First Nations peoples.

Eagle with Salmon, Orca, Bear with Salmon

Raven, Beaver with Grouse, Otter with Pups & Clam, Frog

The “Eagle with Salmon, Orca, Bear with Salmon” was carved in Contemporary Coast Salish style by master carver Doug LaFortune of the Tsawout First Nation while the “Raven, Beaver with Grouse, Otter with Pups & Clam, Frog” was carved in Classic Coast Salish style by master carver Charles Elliot of the Tsartlip Nation.

Seed & Fireworks Field

Nearby is the Seed and Fireworks Field.  The land here was purchased in 1903 from Mr. Fernie, a local dairy farmer. In 1969, a reservoir was excavated to ensure a water supply for irrigation and a single jet fountain was installed to aerate the water supply in the largest reservoir. Today, the fountain is now the focal point of a fireworks display.

Dragon Fountain

On our way to the Rose Gardens, we passed by the striking bronze Dragons Fountain, the newest addition to The Gardens.  A gift from Suzhou (Victoria’s sister city) and the People’s Republic in China in 2015, at night, color-changing LED lights create beautiful scenes in the waters of this peaceful fountain.

Rose Garden

The vibrant Rose Garden, in the center of the grounds, brims with an impressive collection of seven types and at least 280 varieties of roses.  From summer to early fall, this heavenly scented garden bursts to life with 2,500 rose plants.

The 30 arches, intertwined with large sprays of rambler, floribunda, climber and hybrid tea roses, is a favorite spot for a stroll.

Fountain of the Three Sturgeons

On our way to the Japanese Gardens, we passed by the Fountain of the Three Sturgeons, once the location of a large Japanese teahouse. This bronze fountain of three dancing sturgeon, purchased in 1973, is the first casting (by the Ferdinando Marinelli Artistic Foundry) from the enlargement of a work created by Sirio Tofanari in 1958. Visitors often sit on the surrounding benches and enjoy the tranquil sounds of the fountain.

Torii (Japanese gate)

A torii gate, marked the entrance, to the quiet, 1-acre Japanese Garden.  The gate is flanked, on each side, by magnificent purple European copper beech (Fagus sylvatica purpurea) planted in 1906.  The first of Jennie Butchart’s formal gardens, it was started in 1906. In her design, Jennie was assisted by 67 year-old, Japanese landscape artist Isaburo Kishida.  Under the supervision of Hugh Lindsay (the first of Mrs. Buchart’s head gardeners), laborers from the cement works implemented Kishida’s plan.

A scenic relaxation sanctuary, it is home to 500 rhododendrons and azaleas, 74 Japanese maple trees (Acer palmatum dissectum), moss-covered grounds as well as 200 m. of trickling streams.  The European beech trees and Japanese maple trees (at the head of the stone stairs leading down to the garden) are the oldest non-native trees in the Buchart Gardens.  Himalayan Blue Poppies blossom in the spring.

Star Pond

From the Japanese Garden, a path led us to the fantastic, 21,780 sq. ft. Italian Garden.  Once the Butchart family’s tennis court, it was designed by famous architect Samuel Maclure and completed in 1929.  The garden is home to 22,000 bulbs and biennials as well as 18 flower beds and 85 varieties of plants.

Italian Garden

Two beautiful, flower-studded ponds are also located here – the Star Pond (originally designed for Mr. Butchart’s collection of live ornamental ducks) and a sophisticated, cross-shaped pond. Bronze statues and the nearby Gelateria Benvenuto bring a taste of Italy to the grounds.

Mediterranean Garden

We almost missed the diminutive and quaint, 21,780 sq. ft. Mediterranean Garden which was hidden near the parking lot.  A homage to Vancouver Island’s Mediterranean climate, it hosts an array of 110 varieties of exotic plants (in 9 garden beds), ranging from electric-blue delphinium to massive-leafed banana plants and one awe-inspiring agave plant.

Coffee Shop

The food and beverage outlets within The Gardens are the Coffee Shop (salted caramel mocha;  Oh Canada latte; fresh, house-made shortbread cookie; etc.), The Dining Room RestaurantGelateria Benvenuto in the Italian Garden (12 locally-inspired flavors of ice-cold gelato) and the cafeteria-style Blue Poppy Restaurant.

Blue Poppy Restaurant

Buchart Gardens: 800 Benvenuto Ave., Brentwood Bay, near Victoria, British Columbia V8M 1J8.  E-mail: email@butchartgardens.com. Website: www.buchartgardens.com. Open daily, 11:30 AM to 3:30 PM (up to 10 PM during summer, June 15 to September 3).  Tel: +1 250-652-4422.  Coordinates: 48°33′55″N 123°28′10″W.

Admission (including tax):

  • Spring 2022 (April 1–June 14): CAD 35.40 (adults, 18 + years old), CAD 17.70 (youth, 13–17 years old) and CAD 2.00 (child, 5–12 years old)
  • Summer 2022 (June 15–September 30): CAD 38.00 (adults, 18 + years old), CAD 19.00 (youth, 13–17 years old) and CAD 3.00 (child, 5–12 years old)
  • Fall 2022 (October 1–October 31): CAD 31.80 (adults, 18 + years old), CAD 15.90 (youth, 13–17 years old) and CAD 2.00 (child, 5–12 years old)
  • November 1–November 30: CAD 24.75 (adults, 18 + years old), CAD 12.40 (youth, 13–17 years old) and CAD 2.00 (child, 5–12 years old)
  • Christmas 2022 (December 1–January 6): CAD 34.00 (adults, 18 + years old), CAD 17.00 (youth, 13–17 years old) and CAD 3.00 (child, 5–12 years old).

Parliament Garden Reserve (Melbourne, Australia)

Parliament Garden Reserve

This small triangular park, beside Parliament House and Spring and Albert Streets, is a pleasant respite at the Spring Street end of town, with views of the Royal Parliamentary House, the Old Synagogue, Eastern Hill and St Patrick’s Cathedral. This grassed reserve, originally part of the Parliament House grounds, is enclosed by a wrought iron fence and surrounded by majestic palm trees and lush foliage.  Here, it’s very easy to forget that you’re literally in the city center.

Check out “Royal Parliamentary House

Garden entrance

One of the garden’s main features is a life-size memorial in bronze, created by Louis Laumen, to Pastor Sir Douglas Nicholls (the pastor of Australia’s first Aboriginal Church of Christ, he is the first aboriginal person to be knighted in 1972) and Lady Gladys Nicholls (Australia Aboriginal activist). Two of Australia’s most prominent indigenous leaders and traditional owners, it reminds visitors of their contribution to aboriginal welfare.

Pastor Sir Douglas and Lady Gladys Nicholls Memorial

Memorial plaque

The unusual Coles Fountain, a gift from the G.J. Coles Co., Ltd., a retailing company, was opened on November 27, 1981 by premier of Victoria L.H.S. Thomson.  A pleasant experience on a hot Melbourne day, you can walk inside the curtains of cascading water, cool off in the spray and not get soaked (not unless you want to anyway).

Bryan, Cheska and Kyle at The Coles Fountain

Made of stainless steel on bluestone paving, this series of cascading fountains resemble water balloons in full blast. In 2011, it was refurbished to use recycled water (in the past, it drew water from the city’s mains), an initiative of Melbourne’s Lord Mayor, Robert Doyle.

Parliament Garden Reserve: 489-531 Albert Street, East Melbourne Victoria 3002.

Carlton Gardens (Melbourne, Australia)

Carlton Gardens

The 26-hectare (64-acre) Carlton Gardens, a World Heritage Site located on the northeastern edge of the Central Business District, is bounded by Victoria Street, Rathdowne Street, Carlton Street, and Nicholson Street.Often called the Exhibition Gardens, it was designed by Edward La Trobe Bateman and laid out in the late 1850s.  Most of this work was obliterated when the Gardens were redesigned for the 1880 Melbourne International Exhibition and the central third excised to accommodate Joseph Reed’s Royal Exhibition Building. 

The rectangular site, gently sloping down to the southwest and northeast, contains the Royal Exhibition BuildingMelbourne Museum and Imax Cinema, tennis courts, maintenance depot and curator’s cottage, and the award-winning children’s playground (designed as a Victorian maze) at the northern section and two small ornamental lakes adorning the southern section of the park.

Check out “Royal Exhibition Building” and “Melbourne Museum

An example of Victorian landscape design, the Carlton Gardens are of scientific (botanical) significance for their outstanding collection of plants, including conifers, palms, evergreen and deciduous trees, many of which have grown to an outstanding size and form.

Kyle posing beside an ornamental lake

It has sweeping lawns and varied European and Australian tree plantings consisting of deciduous English oaksWhite Poplarplane trees, elmsconiferscedarsturkey oaksAraucarias and evergreens such as Moreton Bay figs, combined with flower beds of annuals and shrubs.

The 550 cm. high, circa 1880 bronze French Fountain, at the Nicholson Street entrance, features three youths, each supporting a dolphin, above which rests a cupped scallop shell. The fountain forms the centerpiece of a round garden bed and its waters flow into the large, concrete pool in which it sits.

According to the listing in the Victorian Heritage Register, the elm avenues of field elms (Ulmus procera) and Dutch elms (Ulmus × hollandica) are significant as there are few examples remaining, worldwide, due to Dutch elm disease.

The iconic Hochgurtel Exhibition Fountain, designed by sculptor Joseph Hochgurtel for the 1880 Exhibition, is located in front of the Melbourne Exhibition Center. As described in the plaque, the fountain symbolizes “Arts, Sciences, Commerce, and Trade, and Industry.”

The garden also contains a rare specimen of Acmena ingens (a rainforest tree of eastern Australia, only five other specimens are known), an uncommon Harpephyllum caffrum and the largest recorded in Victoria, Taxodium distichum and, south west of the Royal Exhibition Building, outstanding specimens of Chamaecyparis funebris and Ficus macrophylla.

The pink granite Westgarth Drinking Fountain, manufactured by Alexander McDonald & Co., was presented to the people of Victoria by 1840s pioneer William Westgarth, when he returned to Melbourne to visit the Centennial Exhibition in 1888. This tiered drinking fountain has two cast-bronze drinking spouts, each taking the form of an emu. It has two embracing kangaroos surmounting the drinking troughs, which in turn are surmounted by a finial-like bronze and glass light.

A network of tree-lined paths, providing formal avenues for highlighting the fountains and architecture of the Exhibition building, includes the grand allee of plane trees that lead to the exhibition building.

A duck and its young swimming on the lake

Wildlife found here includes brushtailed possums, ducks and ducklings in spring, tawny frogmouthskookaburras, Indian mynas and silver gulls while, at night, Gould’s wattled bat and white-striped freetail bats hunt for insects.  When native trees are flowering or fruiting, grey-headed flying foxes also visit the gardens.

The gardens also contains three important fountains – the Exhibition Fountain; the French Fountain; and the Westgarth Drinking Fountain. The gardens, including the Exhibition Building and the fountains, are now a popular spot for wedding photography.

Carlton Gardens: Carlton, Melbourne, Australia

The Fountain at Okada Manila

The Fountain at Okada Manila

The Fountain at Okada Manila, tagged as the world’s largest multicolor dancing fountain, was unveiled last March 31, 2017 in a star-studded launch featuring Miss Universe 2015 Pia Wurtzbach as host, German-Filipino classical crossover singer Gerphil Flores (performing classical music with the 40-piece Manila Philharmonic Orchestra as accompaniment) and American singer-songwriter Robin Thicke (behind the hit “Blurred Lines”) as the main act.

This iconic destination attraction of the Philippines, capable of moving in rhythm with music and lights, draws guests not only around the country but from the world over. The US$30-million fountain has an area of 9.2 hectares, reportedly taking up a third of the property’s land area. In terms of size, it is bigger than the 3.4-hectare Bellagio Fountain of Las Vegas. Like the Bellagio, The Fountain at Okada Manila was designed by WET Designs, a renowned Los Angeles-based water-feature design firm.

WET team of  fountain choreographers infused a local touch to The Fountain’s twofold design inspirations – the festive traditions of the Philippines, and the sampaguita, the country’s national flower.

The fountain, a spectacular show of lights and sounds, is equipped with 739 high-power water nozzles (which can shoot water beyond the height of the Okada Manila hotel building), including WET’s proprietary underwater robots, 2,611 colored lights and 23 high-fidelity speakers. The water in The Fountain can also fill 50 Olympic-size swimming pools.

The Fountain Show, a gift of Okada Manila Chairman Kazuo Okada to the Philippines, is available for free to guests of all ages who watch the show from 6 PM onward. Before the show begins, the peaceful fountain takes the appearance of a manmade lake from the ground. When the show starts, water jets soar high at the centre of the lake, allowing for the projection of abstract videos from two sides.

The water nozzles and colored lights work together to create a sensory experience like no other.  The fountain’s movements, dazzling as it danced in sync to the tune of classics and modern songs, features jets of water racing and spurts twisting and twirling with the feathery grace of a dancer with water blossoms budding, unfurling and forming the eight petals of a massive sampaguita.

Both sides of The Fountain also feature projections during spectacular water shows. A permanent yet invisible performance stage installed in The Fountain’s lake enables performers to give the illusion of being able to walk on water, interact with the water features, and amaze the audience with an enthralling, unforgettable show.  Accompanying this are two other immersive shows: LED Mapping and World of Wonders.  Joining the ranks of Manila’s most iconic landmarks and a bold take on creating a global icon, The Fountain of Okada Manila’s grandeur and accurately choreographed water, light and music performances will rival those in Dubai’s Burj Khalifa and Las Vegas’ Bellagio. Truly, it is a sight to behold.

Okada Manila: New Seaside Drive, Parañaque City, 1701 Metro Manila.  Tel.: (02) 888 0777.

Fountain Show Schedules: Mondays to Thursdays, one song at the top of each hour (6 PM to 10 PM); Fridays to Saturdays, two songs at the top of each hour (6 PM to 12 AM); and Sundays, two songs at the top of each hour (6 PM to 11 PM). Every 8 PM, from Friday to Sunday, the World of Wonders will be performed on the floating stage. A projection mapping show, meanwhile, will be held from Friday to Sunday from 8:30 to 9:30 in the evening.

Washington Union Station (Washington D.C., U.S.A.)

Washington Union Station

The 61.62-km. (38.3-mi.) Peter Pan Bus Lines bus ride, via the MD-295 S and Baltimore-Washington Parkway, from Baltimore to Washington, D.C. took us less than an hour and we arrived at the Washington Union Station (the U.S. Capitol’s major train station and transportation hub) parking garage by 9 AM.

What awaited me when I arrived at the 183 m. (600 ft.) long main hall of the station was a soaring masterpiece done in the Neo-Classically-influenced Beaux-Arts style.  Train stations are great expositions of art in public places and the Washington Union Station is one of the grandest examples of this.

Bus parking garage

The station, opened in 1907, is the only railroad station in the nation specifically authorized by the U.S. Congress.  It is the southern terminus of the Northeast Corridor, an electrified rail line extending north through major cities (BaltimorePhiladelphiaNew York City, and Boston) and the busiest passenger rail line in the nation.

The station is jointly owned by Amtrak (their headquarters, Amtrak owns the platforms and tracks through the Washington Terminal Company a nearly wholly owned subsidiary, with 99.9% controlling interest) and United States Department of Transportation (they own the station building itself and the surrounding parking lots).  Itis Amtrak railroad’s second-busiest station (with annual ridership of just under 5 million) and the ninth-busiest in overall passengers served in the United States.

Main hall

Union Station, an intermodal facility, also serves MARC and VRE commuter rail services, the Washington Metro, the DC Streetcarintercity bus lines, and local Metrobus buses.

In 1988, a headhouse wing was added and the original station was renovated for use as a shopping mall, with many shops, cafes and restaurants (the station’s former presidential suite is also now occupied by a restaurant), making it one of the busiest shopping destinations in the United States.  Today, Union Station, one of Washington DC’s busiest and best-known places, is visited by over 40 million people a year.

The author and Jandy at the main hall

The building was primarily designed by William Pierce Anderson of the Chicago architectural firm of D.H. Burnham & Company. Famed architect and planner Daniel H. Burnham (the same architect who planned Baguio City), assisted by Pierce Anderson, was inspired by a number of architectural styles and Classical elements.

For the exterior and main façade, he was inspired by the Arch of Constantine (Rome, Italy) while the great vaulted spaces of the Baths of Diocletian inspired the interior.

Check out “Arch of Constantine

Grace, Cheska and Kyle

The station was also built on a massive scale, with a façade stretching more than 180 m. (600 ft.) and a waiting room ceiling rising 29 m. (96 ft.) above the floor.

Statues of Centurions (Louis St. Gaudens)

Stone inscriptions and allegorical sculpture were also done in the Beaux-Arts style and expensive materials such as marble, gold leaf, and white granite, from a previously unused quarry, were also used.

Statues of Centurions (Louis St. Gaudens)

In the Attic block, above the main cornice of the central block, stand six, 5.5 m. (18 ft.) high colossal statues, entitled “The Progress of Railroading,” representing deities related to rail transport in the United States created by Louis St. Gaudens, modeled on the Dacian prisoners of the Arch of Constantine and cut by Andrew E. Bernasconi, a high-grade Italian stone workman, between 1909 and 1911.

Their iconography expresses the confident enthusiasm of the American Renaissance movement – Prometheus for Fire;  Thales for Electricity; Themis for Freedom or Justice; Apollo for  Imagination or Inspiration; Archimedes for Mechanics; and Ceres for Agriculture (the substitution of Agriculture for Commerce in a railroad station iconography vividly conveys the power of a specifically American lobbying bloc).

The triumphal arch-like station entrance with the Columbus Fountain in front

St. Gaudens also created the 26 centurions for the station’s main hall. Treating the entrance to a major terminal as a triumphal arch was drawn, by Burnham, upon a tradition launched with the 1837 Euston railway station in London.

The Progress of Railroading

The monumental end pavilions were linked with long arcades, enclosing loggias, in a long series of bays that were vaulted with the lightweight fireproof Guastavino tiles favored by American Beaux-Arts architects. The final aspect owed much to the Court of Heroes at the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893 (where Burnham had been coordinating architect) in Chicago.

The monument end pavilion linked with long arcades enclosing loggias

 

The prominent setting of Union Station’s façade at the intersection of two of Pierre (Peter) Charles L’Enfant‘s avenues (with an orientation that faced the United States Capitol just five blocks away), in a park-like green setting, is one of the few executed achievements of the City Beautiful movement, elite city planning that was based on the patte d’oie (“goosefoot”) of formal garden plans made by Baroque designers such as André Le Nôtre. Frederick Law Olmstead designed the landscape around the station.

Full-length portrait of Christopher Columbus

The Columbus Fountain (also known as the Columbus Memorial), the centerpiece of Columbus Circle in front of the station, is a public artwork by American sculptor Lorado Taft unveiled on June 7, 1912.  This semicircular double-basin fountain has a 13.7 m. (45 ft.) high shaft, in the center, whose front bears a full-length portrait of explorer Christopher Columbus wearing a mantle and staring forward, with his hands folded in front of him.

The globe representing the Western Hemisphere

Beneath him is a ship prow featuring a winged figurehead that represents the observation of discovery. On top of the shaft is a globe, representing the Western hemisphere, with four eagles on each corner connected by garland.

Elderly man representing the Old World

Two male figures (an elderly man, representing the Old World, on the right, and on the left, a figure of a Native American, representing the New World) decorating the left and right sides of the shaft.

American Indian representing the New World

At the back of the shaft is a low-relief medallion with images of Ferdinand & Isabella.  The left and right side of the fountain are guarded by two lions placed away from the base.

A pair of lions

Washington Union Station: 50 Massachusetts Avenue NE, Washington, D.C.  Coordinates: 38°53′50″N 77°00′23″W

Villa d’Este – Gardens (Tivoli, Italy)

The Garden of Villa d'Este

The Garden of Villa d’Este

The palatial setting of Villa d’Este is surrounded by a spectacular terraced garden, in the late-Renaissance Mannerist and Baroque style, which took advantage of the dramatic slope but required innovations in bringing a sufficient water supply, which was employed in cascades, water tanks, troughs and pools, water jets and impressive concentration of fountains, water games. This masterpiece of the Italian Garden is included in the UNESCO world heritage list.

Descending into the garden from the villa

Descending into the garden from the villa

Reviving Roman techniques of hydraulic engineering to supply water to a sequence of fountains, the cardinal created a fantasy garden whose architectural elements and water features had an enormous influence on European landscape design and their garden planning and water features such as fountains, nymphs, grottoes, plays of water and music were much copied in the next two centuries, in European gardens from Portugal to Poland to St. Petersburg. The result is one of the series of great 17th century villas with water-play structures in the hills surrounding the Roman Campagna, such as the Villas Aldobrandini and Torlonia in Frascati; the Villa Lante and the Villa Farnese at Caprarola.

Strolling the gardens

Strolling the gardens

  • Painter, architect, archaeologist and Classical scholar Pirro Ligorio was commissioned to lay out the gardens for the villa, with the assistance of Tommaso Chiruchi (he had worked on the fountains at Villa Lante) of Bologna, one of the most skilled hydraulic engineers of the sixteenth century. In the technical designs for the fountains, Chiruchi was assisted by Claude Venard, a Frenchman who was a manufacturer of hydraulic organs.
  • From 1605 Cardinal Alessandro d’Estegave the go-ahead to a new progam of interventions.  He restored and repaired the vegetation and the waterworks and created a new series of innovations to the layout of the garden and the decorations of the fountains.
  • From 1660 – 61, works on 2 fountains were carried out involving Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
  • In the eighteenth century the villa and its gardens passed to the House of Habsburg after Ercole III d’Este bequeathed it to his daughter Maria Beatrice, married to Grand Duke Ferdinand of Habsburg. The gardens were slowly abandoned and  The hydraulics fell into disuse and ruin, and many of the collection of ancient sculptures, enlarged under Cardinal Ippolito d’Este, were disassembled and scattered to other sites. This picturesque state of decay continued, without interruption, until the middle of the 19th century.  It was recorded by Carl Blechen and other painters.
  • In 1851, Cardinal Gustav von Hohelohe, Prince of Hohenlohe-Schillingfürst, obtained the villa, in enfiteusi, from the Dukes of Modena.  To pull the complex back from its state of ruin, he launched a series of works. Between 1867 and 1882, the villa once again became a cultural point of reference.

dsc01113

The garden has been celebrated in poetrypainting and music:

Villa d’Este’s fame and glory as one of the finest gardens of the Renaissance was established by its extraordinary system of fountains.  It has 51  fountains and nymphaeums, 398 spouts, 364 water jets, 64 waterfalls and 220 basins, all fed by 875 m. of canals, channels and cascades, and all working entirely by the force of gravity, without pumps.

The gardens, now part of the Grandi Giardini Italiani, fall away in a series of terraces. The garden plan is laid out on a central axis with subsidiary cross-axes, refreshed by some 500 jets in fountains, pools and water troughs. Originally supplied with water by the Rivellese spring (which supplied a cistern under the villa’s courtyard), it is now supplied with water by the nearby Aniene River, which is partly diverted through the town, a distance of a kilometer.

Vialone

The Vialone with the Cenacolo in the background

The Vialone, a large, 200 m. long terrace that lies between the villa and the gardens, was constructed between 1568 and 1569.  It has a panoramic view of the gardens and countryside beyond and the Cardinals used the space for fireworks, games, spectacles and festivities. Originally shaded by two rows of elm trees (except for the space directly in front of the villa, left empty to preserve the view), the terrace is enclosed at one end by the Fountain of Europa and, at the other, by the Cenacolo, an immense loggia and belvedere, in the form of a triumphal arch, that provided shade beneath in summer, as well as commanding viewpoints of the scenery. Its interior, originally intended to be decorated with stucco decoration, gilding and frescoes, was never finished.

The double loggia in the center of the terrace, made with travertine stone from 1566–1577, is attached to the facade of the villa. Two stairways provide access to the ceremonial salons on the lower floor. Its upper level, created as a terrace for the Cardinal’s apartments, contains a Nymphaeum (grotto) where the Fountain of Leda is located.  The original statuary of the fountain, depicting Jupiter and Leda transformed into a swan and four children (Elena, Clytemnestra, Castor and Pollux), was sold in the 18th century and is now in the Galleria Borghese in Rome. The original fountain featured a novel hydraulic trick – water spouting from a vase held by Leda struck a metal disk, causing flashes of light to reflect on the walls of the grotto.  The statuary has been replaced by headless statue of Minerva, found in the garden of the Palazzo Manni in Tivoli.

The Fountain of the Tripod, a copy (the original is now in the Louvre) of an ancient Roman fountain in the center of the Vialone, has only been there since 1930.  It consists of a marble basin supported by a central column and three pilasters. The Fountain of the Sea Horses, the original fountain on the site, was moved, by Ippolito, from Hadrian’s Villa to his garden.  It is now in the Vatican Museum.

The Fountain of Europa, at the northeast end at the top of the garden, was begun by Ippolito but was not finished until 1671. Its design, copying that of the Grand Loggia, consists of a triumphal arch with two orders (Corinthian and Doric) of columns.  The large empty niche in the center once held a sculpture Europa Embracing the Bull which is now in the VIlla Albani in Rome.

From Fountain of the Tripod, two ramps lead down to the upper garden and, at either end, there are symmetrical double flights of stairs. The shaded Cardinal’s Walk, attached to the retaining wall of the terrace, leads from one side of the garden to the other, passing by several grottos which are built into the retaining wall. The Grotto of Igea and Aesculpius, at the southeast end of the walk, just below the Fountain of Europa, is decorated with tartar flakes, mosaics and colored fragments of sea shells, and a small portion of the original fresco. It originally held two statues.  The statue of Aesculpius, the God of Medicine, is now found in the Louvre while that of Igea, the daughter of Auesculpius and the Goddess of Healing, is now in the Vatican Museum.

The Loggia of Pandora, in the middle of the Cardinal’s Walk, just below the center of the Villa, is covered, with arcades looking out at the garden. It contains a nymphaeum built into the wall and, originally, was decorated with mosaics and with two statues of Minerva and a statue of Pandora carrying a vase (actually a concealed fountain pouring out water) of water (symbolizing the evils of the world).   The statues were sold in the 18th century.  The staue of Pandora and one of the Minervas are now in the Capitoline Museum. In the 19th century, the nymphaeum was converted into a Christian chapel, a favorite place of the composer Franz Liszt, who dedicated two pieces of music to the chapel.

Fontana del Bicchierone (Fountain of the Great Cup)

Fontana del Bicchierone (Fountain of the Great Cup)

The Fountain of the Bicchierone, one of two fountains created for the villa by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, was made between 1660 and 1661 on a commission from Cardinal Rinaldo I d’Este. The basin of the fountain, in the form of a large shell which reaches up to the level of the terrace, has a toothed Bicchierone (cup or chalice) in the center, from which water sprays upwards. Bernini supervised the building of the fountain and, following its inauguration in May 1661, had the height of the spouting water reduced, to avoid blocking the view from the Loggia of Pandora. Though not part of the original design of the garden, the fountain became a link between the architecture of the palace and the garden.

Fontana del Bicchierone (Fountain of the Great Cup)

Fontana del Bicchierone (Fountain of the Great Cup)

The Loggetta of the Cardinal, a small ballustraded terrace between the Fountain of the Biccherone and the garden, was said to be the Cardinal’s favorite spot for reading and discussing poetry and art, and watching the construction of the garden around him. Surrounded by high laurel hedges and stone benches, it originally had a large statue (now found in the Louvre), installed shortly after the Cardinal’s death, of Hercules with the boy Achilles in his arms, overlooking the garden below. It was one of three statues of Hercules, in central positions along the central axis, that were all visible when seen from the bottom the garden, aligned with the loggia of the villa at the top.

The Grotto of Diana, at the end of the Cardinal’s Walk, below the Gran Loggia, is a large underground vaulted chamber decorated from 1570-72 by Paolo Caladrino.  It is completely covered with mosaics of mythological scenes, with images of fish, dragons, dolphins, pelicans and other animals, as well as the eagles and apples of the d’Este family. The rustic fountain, its central feature, has a statue of the goddess Diana in a large niche decorated with stucco reliefs of landscapes, the sea and a ship. Sold in the 18th century, all of these statues are now in the Capitoline Museum in Rome. Some of the original 16th century majolica floor tiles can still be seen.

A walkway, below the Loggetta of the Cardinal, traverses the garden and passes by three grottoes. The Grotto of Hercules, in the center, is covered by the Loggetta of the Cardinal. Beneath it is  a cistern and some of the hydraulic machinery for the fountains below. The grotto once had stucco reliefs of either animals or the labors of Hercules and a statue of Hercules in repose (now in the Vatican Museum).

Mask spouting water in the Grotto of Pomona

Mask spouting water in the Grotto of Pomona

The Grotto of Pomona, similar in design to the Grotto of Hercules, has some of its original mosaic decoration still visible. The water from a white marble mask (found when the fountain was restored in 2002) pours into a fountain.

Fontana dell'Ovato (Oval Fountain)

Fontana dell’Ovato (Oval Fountain)

The Oval Fountain (Fontana dell’Ovato) one of the first and among the most famous fountains in the garden, was designed by Pirro Ligorio as a water theater, spraying water in variety of forms. Begun in 1565 and finished in 1570, it was made by fountain engineers Tomasso de Como and Curzio Maccarono, with sculpture by Raffaello Sangallo. A massive stone basin, set against the semicircular back wall, cascades water into the fountain and sprays it into the air while water jets into the basin, from vases in the hands of statues of Nereids, and also sprays in fan shapes from vases in niches in the semicircular wall behind the fountain.

fontana-dellovato-oval-fountain-2

An artificial mountain, rising above the fountain, symbolizes the Tiburtine landscape.  The mountain is pierced by three grottoes, each pouring forth water, and is decorated with statues representing the Sibyl Albunesa with her son Melicerte, by Gillis van den Vliete (1568), and statues representing rivers Erculaneo and Anio, by Giovanni Malanca (1566), all of which pour water into the Oval Fountain.

An upper walkway, above the fountain, leads past past the ring of basins and cascades. The Grotto of Venus, the fountain’s own grotto, was designed by Pirro Ligorio and built in 1565–68. It served as a meeting place for guests on hot summer days. A figure of Venus, similar to the Capitoline Venus, and two putti , the original statues of the grotto, are no longer there but traces of the monochrome murals of grotesque figures, tiles and sculpted grotto walls still remain.

The fountain on a side wall, framed within a Doric, contains a sculpture of a sleeping nymph in a grotto guarded by d’Este heraldic eagles, with a bas-relief framed in apple boughs that links the villa to the Garden of the Hesperides.

Flanking the central axis are symmetrical double flights of stairs that lead to the next garden terrace.  The Grotto of Diana, richly decorated with frescoes and pebble mosaic, is on one side. Water rom the central Fontana del Bicchierone (“Fountain of the Great Cup”), planned by Bernini in 1660, issues from a seemingly natural rock into a scrolling shell-like cup.

La Rometta (Little Rome)

La Rometta (Little Rome)

To descend to the next level, there are stairs at either end.  La Rometta (“the little Rome”), an elaborate fountain complex, is at the far left.  The boat, with an obelisk mast, symbolizes the Tiburtina island in the Tiber, below the statue of Rome Triumphant.

Hundred Fountains

Hundred Fountains

The water jets of the Hundred Fountains (Cento Fontane), on the next level, fill the full length of a long rustic trough.  The Fontana dell’Ovato ends the cross-vista. A visitor may walk behind the water through the rusticated arcade of the concave nymphaeum, which is peopled by marble nymphas by Giambattista della Porta. Above the nymphaeum, the sculpture of Pegasus recalls to the visitor the fountain of Hippocrene on Parnassus, haunt of the Muses.

Hundred Fountains

Hundred Fountains

The 16th-century Fontana di Diana Efesina (Fountain of Diana of Ephesus) has water flowing from her numerous breasts, symbolizing fertility and abundance, both of nature and of intellect.

Fountain of Diana of Ephesus

Fountain of Diana of Ephesus

The central Fontana dei Draghi (Fountain of the Dragons), dominating the central perspective of the gardens, was erected for a visit in 1572 of Pope Gregory XIII whose coat-of-arms features a dragon. It unites the terrace to the next.  The sound of this fountain was in contrast to a nearby Uccellario with artificial birds. Central stairs lead down a wooded slope to three rectangular fishponds set on the cross-axis at the lowest point of the gardens.  It is terminated, at the right, by the water organ (now brought back into use) and Fountain of Neptune (belonging to the 20th century restorations). 

Neptune Fountain

Neptune Fountain

The very formal Fountain of the Owl, at the southwest part of the garden, below the Fountain of Rometta and the Fountain of Proserpina, was built between 1565 and 1569 by Giovanni del Duca, These 3 fountains have terraces connected by stairways, with nymphaeums placed beneath the terraces. Placed on a terrace surrounded by walls with niches, it crowned with the white eagles and lily symbols of the d’Este.

The Fountain of the Owl (a.k.a. Bird's Fountain)

The Fountain of the Owl (a.k.a. Bird’s Fountain)

The fountain, covered with polychrome tiles, has the coat of arms of the d’Este, held by two angels, at the top, above the niche flanked by Ionic columns. Though the architectural elements are intact, the statues of two youths holding a goatskin which poured water into a basin held by three satyrs are missing or were destroyed. The sculpture in the niche, believed lost, was rediscovered during a renovation in 2001–02, hidden under mineral deposits and earth.

This fountain also produced music, thanks to Its ingenious automaton made by the French organ maker Luc Leclerc, installed in 1566, before the Fountain of the Organ on the other side of the garden. It featured wenty painted bronze birds placed in the niche, posed on two metal olive branches. Each bird sang an individual song, produced by piped water and air. A mechanical owl appeared, and the birds stopped singing; then, at the end of the performance, all the birds sang together. This musical feature was admired and copied in other European gardens, and functioned until the end of the 17th century. It needed constant repair due the action of the water on its delicate mechanism, and by the 19th century were completely ruined. The decorative elements of the fountain were completely restored in the 19030s, and restored again in 2001-2002, [21]

During the restoration work of 2001–02, the workers found some of the original mechanism that produced the bird songs, including the wind chamber, the tubes that moved the air and water, and the machinery that made the owl move. Using modern materials, Leonardo Lombardi was able to make a new version of the old machinery so the birds can sing and move again.

The series of terraces above terraces and the imposing constructions in the hanging cliffs of the “Valle gaudente” bring to mind the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world plus, the addition of water (including an aqueduct tunneling beneath the city) evokes the engineering skill of the Romans.  Its landscape, art and history (which includes the important ruins of ancient villas such as the magnificent Villa Adriana) as well as a zone rich in caves and waterfalls (which display the unending battle between water and stone) is generally considered within the larger and, altogether extraordinary, context of Tivoli itself.

Fountain of the d'Este eagles

Fountain of the d’Este eagles

Villa d‘ Este: Piazza Trento, 5, 00019 Tivoli,  RM, Italy. Tel: 0039 0412719036. Fax: 0039 0412770747. E-mail:  villadestetivoli@teleart.org. Website: www.villadestetivoli.info.

Open 8.30 AM – 6.45 PM (May to August), 8:30 AM – 4 PM (January, November, December), 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM (February), 8:30 AM – 5:15 PM (March), 8:30 AM – 6:30 PM (April), 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM (October) and 8:30 AM – 6:15 PM (September). Admission: € 8.00. The visitor can take pictures without any physical contact with the cultural heritage and he cannot use either flash or tripod. 

How to Get There:

  • Taking the blue regional COTRAL busRoma Tivoli-Via Prenestina at the bus terminal just outside Ponte Mammolo station of metro line B; the stop Largo Nazioni Unite is about 100m far from the entrance of the Villa.
  • Taking the urban train line FL2 (Roma-Pescara Line) from Tiburtina stationto Tivoli station (Stazione Tivoli), then, local bus CAT number 1 or 4/ to Piazza Garibaldi stop; the stop is in Tivoli’s main square in front of the Villa.

St. Peter’s Square (Vatican City)

To the east of the basilica is the Piazza di San Pietro (St. Peter’s Square), a forecourt in two sections – the first is oval and the second, nearest the basilica, is trapezoid., The two distinct areas are framed by tall  colonnades formed by doubled pairs of columns supporting an entablature of the simple Tuscan Order.

St. Peter's Square

St. Peter’s Square

The present arrangement, the Baroque  inspiration of Bernini, was constructed between 1656 and 1667. The colonnades consist of 284 13 m. high Doric columns, arranged in four rows, and 88 pilasters of travertine marble. With the trabeation surmounted by a balustrade, the overall height is 21 m.

Statues above the collonade

Statues above the collonnade

The colonnade, on the north side, masks an assortment of Vatican structures.  Above it rises the upper stories of the Vatican Palace. On the south side, they define and formalize the space, with the Barberini Gardens rising to a skyline of umbrella pines.To link with the basilica’s façade, Bernini built two straight 120 m. long covered wings (Charlemagne on the left, Constantine on the right).

St. Peter's Square

St. Peter’s Square facing Via della Conciliazione

A centrally placed ancient Egyptian obelisk, known as “The Witness,” is revered as a “witness” to Peter’s death by crucifixion, with head downwards, on October 13, 64 AD during the reign of the Roman Emperor Nero.  Here are some trivia regarding the obelisk:

  • It is the second largest standing obelisk.
  • It is the only one to remain standing since its removal from Egypt and re-erection at the Circus of Nero in 37 AD.
  • It has a height of 25.5 m. (84 ft.).
  • If its base and the cross on top are include, it has a total height of 40 m. (130 ft.).
  • Its removal to its present location September 28, 1586, by order of Pope Sixtus V, was engineered by Domenico Fontana in a difficult operation that nearly ended in disaster. During the operation, the ropes holding the obelisk began to smoke from the friction. Fortunately, this problem was noticed by Benedetto Bresca, a sailor of Sanremo, who  swiftly intervened. As a reward, his town was granted the privilege of providing the palms that are used at the basilica each Palm Sunday.
The Egyptian Obelisk

The Egyptian Obelisk

To ornament the square in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, two fountains were created by Carlo Maderno (1612–1614), the nephew of the architect Domenico Fontana, and Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1667–1677. The fountains, like all fountains of the time, had no pumps and operated purely by gravity, with its source of water, the restored Acqua Paola (on the Janiculum hill, 266 m. above sea level) higher than the fountain which caused the water to shoot 20 ft. upwards into the air.

Fontana Antica (Carlo Maderno)

Fontana Antica (Carlo Maderno)

The older fountain, by Maderno, on the north side of the square, is located on the site of an earlier fountain (reputed to be the finest fountain in Rome), built in 1490 during the time of Pope Innocent VIII. The new fountain had an octagonal base on top with a large irregular basin, decorated with steps and small columns, to hold the water. Maderno kept the the old fountain’s large lower stone vasque and ornamented the pedestal above it with four stone scrolls.

The author in front of the Fontana Antica of Carlo Maderno

The author in front of the Fontana Antica

However, the smaller upper vasque was removed and replaced it with an inverted vasque or cap like a mushroom and covered with stone scales. From the top, water spouted poured down over the top of the upper vasque, its flow broken and made to sparkle by the stone scales. Maderno also removed the coats-of-arms of the 3 previous popes (including the 3 coats-of-arms of Pope Innocent VIII, carved by Alonso du Capua), replacing them with plaques honoring his patron, Pope Paul V.

The collonnade

The collonnade

The second, 8 m. high fountain, on the left, was built for purposes of symmetry. It closely followed the design of the Maderno fountain and was built by Gian Lorenzo Bernini who was commissioned in 1667 by Pope Clement X.  The fountain was completed in 1677.

Via della Conciliazione

Via della Conciliazione

The long and wide Via della Conciliazione, built by Mussolini after the conclusion of the Lateran Treaties, leads from the River Tiber to the piazza.  It gives distant views of St. Peter’s as the visitor approaches.

Spanish Steps (Rome, Italy)

The monumental Spanish Steps

The monumental Spanish Steps

The monumental  Spanish Steps (ItalianScalinata di Trinità dei Monti), a stairway of 135 steps (the slightly elevated drainage system is often mistaken for the first step), climbs a steep slope between the Piazza di Spagna at the base and Piazza Trinità dei Monti, was built from 1723–1725 with French diplomat Étienne Gueffier’s bequeathed funds of 20,000 scudi.

Piazza di Spagna

Piazza di Spagna

Designed by the little-known architect Francesco de Sanctis (though Alessandro Specchi was long thought to have produced the winning entry), following a competition in 1717, it links the Bourbon Spanish Embassy and the Trinità dei Monti church (under the patronage of the Bourbon kings of France), both located above at the top, to the Holy See in Palazzo Monaldeschi below.

Trinità dei Monti Church

Trinità dei Monti Church

At the base of the stairway is the  Fontana della Barcaccia (“Fountain of the ugly Boat”), an Early Baroque sculptural fountain built, with travertine as its material, from 1627–29.  It is often credited to Pietro Bernini who, since 1623, was Pope Urban VIII’s architect for the Acqua Vergine, an aqueduct from 19 BC which is the source of the fountain’s water. His more famous son, Gian Lorenzo Bernini, was recently said to have collaborated on the decoration. According to a legend, the pope had the fountain installed after he had been impressed by a boat brought here by the 1598 flood of the Tiber River.

Fontana della Barcaccia

Fontana della Barcaccia

Fontana della Barcaccia (4)

The center baluster

Made into the shape of a half-sunken ship, with water overflowing from its sides into a small basin, it was built slightly below street level due to the low water pressure (hence no water spectacle) from the aqueduct which flows from seven points of fountain: – the center baluster; two inside the boat (from sun-shaped human faces) and four outside the boat. As a reminder of Pope Urban VIII’s ancestry, the fountain is decorated with the papal coat of arms of the Barberini family.

Fontana della Barcaccia (3)

Sun-shaped human faces

As one begins to climb the steps one can see, at the corner on the right, the house where English poet John Keats lived and died in 1821.  It is now a museum dedicated to his memory, full of memorabilia of the English Romantic generation.

Keats-Shelley Memorial House (1)

The Spanish Steps was featured in a number of films, TV shows and music albums:

  • The 1953 film Roman Holiday, starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, made the Spanish Steps famous to an American audience.
  • Halfway up the steps, on the right, was the apartment that was the setting for the 1961 film The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone.
  • A house next to the Steps is also the setting or Bernardo Bertolucci‘s 1998 film Besieged.
  • The Steps were featured prominently in the film version of The Talented Mr. Ripley starring Matt Damon in the title role.
  • The Spanish Steps are featured in a scene in the 2015 film The Man From U.N.C.L.E.
  • The Steps are featured in numerous scenes in Alfred Bester‘s 1956 novel The Stars My Destination.
  • In an episode of Everybody Loves Raymond which aired on October 2, 2000, Ray, Debra, Frank, and Marie climb the Spanish Steps during a family vacation in Rome.
  • Refugee, a progressive rock group, recorded the song “Credo” in 1974.  It contains the lyrics “I believe in constant pauses / Like a Roman holiday / And I often stop for air / As I climb the Spanish stairs.”
  • When I Paint My Masterpiece,” a Bob Dylan song first recorded in 1971 by The Band and later appearing on the album Bob Dylan’s Greatest Hits Vol. II, mentions both the “Spanish Stairs” and the Colosseum.
  • In 1995, Norwegian singer/songwriter Morten Harket, from A-ha, released a song called “Spanish Steps” on his album Wild Seed.
  • “Walk Through the World,” a Marc Cohn song released in 1993 album The Rainy Season, includes the lyric “From the Spanish Steps to the Liberty Bell, I know the angels have seen us.”
  • The title song from Guy Clark‘s Dublin Blues album (1995) contains the lyric: “I loved you on the Spanish Steps / The day you said goodbye.”
  • The song “Spanish Steps of Rome,” a bonus track in the North American & Japanese versions of the Mindfields album released in 1999 by American rock band Toto, describes a femme fatale romance that takes place on and around the Spanish Steps.
  • In 2005, American rock band Of A Revolution released One Shot from their album Stories of a Stranger, which contains the lyrics “Rome is burning, you can taste the embers / I am walking hard on Spanish Steps.”
  • In 2007, John Tesh of Entertainment Tonight fame, recorded an instrumental tune called “Spanish Steps” on his A Passionate Life.

The Spanish Steps have been restored several times, most recently in 1995. 

L-R: Jandy and the author

L-R: Jandy and the author

Spanish Steps: Piazza di Spagna, RomeItaly