Category Archives: Ilocos Norte

Bangui Wind Farm (Ilocos Norte)

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Bangui Wind Farm

Bangui Wind Farm

From Pagupud, Melissa, Almira, Albert, Jandy and I again rejoined the others in our bus as we returned to Bangui for our much awaited visit to its Wind Farm, fascinating landmark of the town. From the highway, we could already espy these gorgeous giant fans.

Bangui Bay

Bangui Bay

The windmills, officially referred to as the NorthWind Bangui Bay Project, is the first “Wind Farm” in the Philippines and is considered to be the biggest in Southeast Asia. The site, a graceful arc reflecting the 9-km. long and 100 m. wide shoreline of Bangui Bay, create a fusion of technological and natural elegance. Bordering the West Philippine Sea, it has a windswept area of 5,281 sq. m. (56,840 sq. ft.).

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Its 20 units of 70-m. (230-ft.) high Vestas V82 1.65 MW wind turbine-generator units (WTGs), all arranged in a single row, were supplied NorthWind Power Development Corp, a Danish power firm.  Spaced 326 m. (1,070 ft.) apart, their three 41 m. (135 ft.) long, vertically-oriented rotor blades, on top of a 50 m. high tubular tower with a 6 m. diameter base, have a rotor diameter of 82 m. (269 ft.). The nacelle (casing), which encloses the generator, the gear box and the yaw mechanism (which turns the blades into the wind), is at the rear of the rotor blades.

A restaurant with viewing deck

A restaurant with viewing deck

The sight of the giant man-made wonders was astonishing and any picture with the windmills, whether near or far, is truly charming. You can come close to them, touch them to feel its vibration but you can’t hug them as they are just too big and wide. A must-try experience, there’s definitely no other place like it in the country. Locals even picnic under them and they could hear the whirring of the blades of these tall and imposing structures from above, all of them rotating in unison.   However, the picturesque beach in the area is not good for swimming as its waves are too strong.

The windmills as a backrop for photo shoots

The windmills as a backrop for photo shoots

Now a busy tourist spot, along the stretch are restaurants with viewing decks where you can eat and stalls selling souvenirs like windmill key chains, bags, T-shirts, ref magnets, miniature windmills and pen holders. Seaside horseback riding is also being offered here. You can also watch the spectacular sunset and ocean view while listening to crashing of the ocean waves. The best part o our visit here is that there are no entrance fees. You can shoot all you want. There are no restrooms though. Prepare yourself for the unrelenting winds that batter you from the open sea. There’s not much of an adventure there but it’s still worth visiting.

Souvenir shop

Souvenir shop

How To Get There From Laoag City, take a Cagayan-bound bus (a 1.5-hour trip) towards Burgos. After reaching Burgos, watch out for the directional marker on the left side of the road that leads to the Bangui Bay. Follow the dirt road leading to the bay. Some wind mills will already be visible from this point then make a right turn to the bay.

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse Museum (Burgos, Ilocos Norte)

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Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

After touring Bacarra Church, Melissa, Almira, Albert, Jandy and I again boarded our bus or the 33-km./40 min. drive to the century-old (first lit on March 30, 1892) Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, the most accessible of all the lighthouses in the island of Luzon and the highest elevated (the tower of the Cape Melville Lighthouse is the tallest at 90 ft/27 m.), still original and active Spanish era lighthouse in the country.

NHI Plaque

NHI Plaque

Last April 6, 2004, on our way to Bauang (La Union) from Pagudpud, my family and I dropped by to visit the lighthouse but wasn’t able to go in as it was then being rehabilitated. A few months after our visit, on August 13, 2004, Cape Bojeador Lighthouse was declared a National Historical Landmark and, on June 20, 2005, was also declared by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure. Recently, the lighthouse was used as the backdrop for the romantic scenes of Coco Martin and Julia Montes in ABS CBN’s  2012 teleserye “Walang Hanggan.”

View of Cape Bojeador and the West Philippine Sea

View of Cape Bojeador and the West Philippine Sea

In Brgy. Paayas in Burgos, a sign on the right side of the Maharlika Highway indicates the winding and narrow, two-lane concrete road that leads to the base of the lighthouse. From the base, we boarded two tricycles (PhP50/each way) that took us to the small parking lot where  there are stalls selling ice candy, canned soda, some finger foods and souvenirs (including a wooden craft replica of the lighthouse with a pen stand).

The courtyard

The courtyard with cistern in the middle

Service building

Service building

Upon arrival, we climbed a flight of concrete stairs to the perimeter wall.  Here, we had a good view of the rough and rocky Cape Bojeador coastline and the whitecaps of the West Philippine Sea. We then proceeded to the courtyard where the service buildings and the cistern are located.

T-shaped stairway

T-shaped stairway

The main pavilion

The main pavilion

An elegant T-shaped stairway then lead us up the verandah of the main pavilion, with its 3 apartments, 2 offices, capiz and louvered window panes and decorative iron grilles, where a hallway took us to the foot of the covered stairs that that lead to the entrance of the  20 m. (66-ft.) high octagonal stone tower.

Albert, Almira, Melissa an Jandy at the veranda of main pavilion

Albert, Almira, Melissa an Jandy at the veranda of main pavilion

This was as far as we could go as no visitors were allowed to go up, via a steep spiral metal staircase (not recommended or senior citizens), to the lantern room (now a modern electric lamp powered by solar panels) on top. Only a certain number of people are allowed in the tower at a time and access to the viewing gallery (surrounded with decorative iron grille work) depends on the outside wind condition.  As it was Holy Week, it was closed to visitors.

The lighthouse tower

The lighthouse tower

One place we had access to was the small, newly restored Cape Bojeador Lighthouse Museum.  Housed in the pavilion at the foot of the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, the rooms lining the hallway used to be shut but, since its inauguration last November 21, 2015, it is now open to the public. At the time of our visit, the rooms were sparsely decorated with low wooden furniture, including four-poster beds by the windows.

The author at one of the apartments

The author at one of the apartments

One room was filled with items that were once used to run the lighthouse (the original kerosene lamp, batteries, a part of the original first order Fresnel lens, etc.), perhaps the most striking in the area, plus samples of original brick work and old photos.

The lighthouse museum

The lighthouse museum

Original kerosene lamp

Original kerosene lamp

We also dropped by the Paru de Kabo Bojeador, the new tourist center which has stalls selling souvenirs and a safe resting area on what had previously been a construction road. The pavilion has also been transformed into lodging for people seeking basic accommodation (except for shared cooking facilities and water from the cistern, no other amenities are provided).

Original brick work

Original brick work

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse: Vigia de Nagpartian Hill, Burgos, Ilocos Norte. Admission: PhP40 for adults and PhP30 for children aged 7-12 years old.

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure (Paoay, Ilocos Norte)

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Paoay sand dunes

Paoay sand dunes

One of the highlights of our Holy Week sojourn in Ilocos Norte was our Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure.  From Pamulinawen Hotel, Jandy, Melissa, Almira, Albert and I had to take a 17-km./25-min. jeepney ride to Paoay town proper.  From there, we all boarded a tricycle for the 20-min. drive to the sand dunes. As we neared the dunes, Albert and I had to alight as the tricycle had a hard time climbing up a dune. Upon arrival, we met up with Mr. Jake A. Texon, the Operations Manager.

Onse Reef

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding  Adventure

Ilocos Norte is the only place across the Southeast Asian region where one can find a desert environment. Technically known as the “Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes,” it spans four Ilocos Norte towns. In 1993, due to its superlative natural beauty, geological uniqueness and scientific relevance, the sand dunes have been declared as a National Geological Monument (NGM) in the Philippines (other NGM sites include  the Hundred Islands National Park off  the coast of Pangasinan, the Taal Lake and Volcano Protected Landscape in Batangas, and the Chocolate Hills in the island of Bohol). The dunes have been used as the setting for the desert scenes in for Mel Gibson’s “Mad Max” (1979), Tom Cruise’s “Born on the Fourth of July” (1989) and local blockbuster flicks such as Nora Aunor’s “Himala” (1982), the “Ang Panday” series and “Temptation Island” (2011).

The desert-like terrain

The desert-like terrain

The sand dunes of Ilocos Norte, a one of a kind “extreme adventure” destination in the Philippines, is also ideal for 4 x 4 rides, similar to dune bashing in the Emirate of Dubai in the United Arab Emirates (a booming tourist attraction in the Middle East), and sandboarding. Dune bashing has the feeling and excitement of riding a roller coaster because of the up and down route of the off-road vehicle through the very high and very steep terrain and mountain-like features of the dunes.

A lone tree

A lone tree

The Paoay Sand Dunes, 88 hectares of wide expanse of sand, has the vast sandy characteristics of the Dubai desert (though the sand there is considerably pure because it doesn’t have particles like twigs, barks, stones and leaves), making it suitable for dune bashing and sand boarding.  However, the vehicles used in Dubai (such asToyota Land Cruisers) have roofs while the jeeps in Paoay are open-air and only have a single roll bar.

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In 2011, during our Lakbay Norte Media Tour, we tried the dune bashing and sandboarding at La Paz in Laoag City.  However, it is widely accepted that Paoay boasts the best terrains there are to find in the sand dunes complex and, recently, an outdoor group discovered an area in the village of Bacsil that is a good addition to the options present for sand dunes safaris.  This I wanted to find out.

The West Philippine Sea

The West Philippine Sea

How do the sand dunes of Paoay differ from earlier established commercial areas in the sand dunes complex? For one, it was only recently discovered so its terrain is as pristine as they can get plus not many tourists have visited the place. Also, the combination of wide sandy plains, clusters of closely-formed dunes, several oases and outlying vegetation plus a good view of the coast towards the West Philippine Sea, and the height of its dunes (some at 70 m. high) will surely not disappoint anyone visiting Bacsil. Aside from Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure, there are two other registered 4 x 4 operators at the Paoay sand dunes – Suba Sand Dunes and Culili Point Sand Dunes Double-Extreme-Adventure.

The staging area

The staging area

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure, according to Jake, was established on October 28, 2014 as a 15 member club whose members pitch in their time, talent and treasure to build the place. It has 21 4 x 4 units – five locally-manufactured Wrangler-type jeeps, 14 Toyota Land Cruisers and two modified Toyota Surfs, all diesel-powered and tuned for dune bashing by being equipped with large tires (underinflated to 10 psi) and heavy duty suspension systems.  Conversions usually cost PhP400,000 per unit.

Some of Onse Reef's 4 x 4s

Some of Onse Reef’s 4 x 4s

All units are manned by 25 drivers and 40 guides (who also teach sandboarding). The drivers and guides have to strictly adhere with safety nets for their passengers who are standing in open jeepney vehicles. Drivers also stay on existing tracks and areas, and do not create new ones in the limited vegetation, so they are caring for the area. For the site to become globally competitive, without disturbing the natural ascent, descent and curbs of the place, the trails were designed in consultation with expert adventure builders in the U.S.A., with names such as the “Snake Pit,” the “Devils Ride,” the “Blind Drop,” the “Triple Fall,” the “Roller Coaster,” etc.

Wrangler-type jeep

A Wrangler-type jeep

We tried out the dune bashing first. We hopped on the back of our blue Toyota Land Cruiser and, in a standing position (you can also do it seated but it is less fun), were asked to hold on tight to the roll bar. No seat belts, harness or head gear at all. Our 4 X 4 ride was more thrilling and enjoyable than any roller coaster ride I have ever experienced and we all felt a different kind of rush as we watched the road from above and screamed for our lives during the times when we felt like the vehicle would topple over.

Boarding our Toyota Land Cruiser

Boarding our Toyota Land Cruiser

You must have strong grip to prevent being thrown out, plus a strong heart to last the trip.  The drive on bumpy routes and very steep 45 degree angle downward slopes were very exciting. The driver knew how to give us an adrenaline rush. We soon learned how to move with the vehicle, especially on high deep hills and side-winding curves. It’s literally like riding a wild horse and surely an experience I’d be glad to do again.

On our way ......

On our way ……

We made a stopover on top of the dunes for some photo shoots. As we arrived during the long arid dry season, the dunes before us were barren and brown, with only wild grasses, shrubs and some sturdy trees. The beautiful, late afternoon sunset here, along the crimson skyline, is also said to be indescribable.  We also learned that offshore is Onse Reef, a 12-hectare-protected marine sanctuary and a beautiful diving site located within the territory of Barangays Bacsil, Mumulaan and Nagbacalan.

Stopover for photo shoot

Stopover for photo shoot

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After our 4 x 4 ride, the others tried sandboarding, an insane sport which, though so much harder than surfing and a little easier than wakeboarding and skiing, was still worth trying. All you need here is body balancing. You need to squat in order to balance and properly surf. Each tried to keep their balance on the stretch of roughly 10 to 15 m. run with the board still on their feet.  The board is geared up with oil to make it glide smoothly over the sand but still they tumbled. Good thing the sand is soft, with no rocks.

Jandy getting ready to surf

Jandy getting ready to surf

However, falling from the sand boards would get lots of sand in your pants. Only Melissa made a successful run while seated on the board. Though you would tumble down at first, you’ll get the hang of it after two or more tries. You will have to walk up the slope every time you surf down and the hard part is just climbing up the sand hill again as it does get very tiring.

Albert bends to balance himself

Albert bends to balance himself

A very nice place to test your nerves, don’t leave Paoay without trying dune bashing and sandboarding! It’s both exhilarating and scary and good for adrenalin junkies. It also gives you the authentic feeling of being in the Middle East as you do not have to travel to Dubai just to experience this. The drivers and the guides all make sure that you get a thrilling ride going up and down the sand dunes. It’s absolutely fun. At the staging area, there is a store that sells snacks, halo-halo and souvenirs.

Melissa makes it down the hill on her butt.....

Melissa makes it down the hill on her butt…..

It is best to try dune bashing when the sun’s not too punishing. As they operate as early as 5 AM, you can try out dune bashing either very early in the morning or late in the afternoon (to also view the nice sunset) as the really fierce heat of the noontime sun can burn your skin. Don’t go there between 10 AM and 4 PM. Bring bottled water with you, as it does get dry and tiring, bring sunblock lotion, a small towel plus wear sunglasses, rubber shoes (because the sand is hot) and a hat that won’t blow off.  Also make sure to have extra clothes and be prepared to get dirty. For those who want to take videos, better use a small camera that you can attach to its stand and hold it in front of you, since it will be hard to hold on to the big cameras while your ride is going down fast.

L-R: Melissa, Jandy, Albert and Almira

L-R: Melissa, Jandy, Albert and Almira

The 4 x 4 ride and sandboarding is not for the faint hearted, anxious, nervous, pregnant, the newly operated, have high blood pressure, fractures, epilepsy or heart disease. Only children 10 years old and above are allowed at the back of the vehicle.  Participants have to sign a waiver.  Peak season is summer, weekends and December.   Rates: PhP1,500 for a 30- minute ride and PhP2,500 for a 1- hr. ride. Maximum number of people is 5.

Posing with Jake A. Texon (in light blue shirt)

Posing with Jake A. Texon (in light blue shirt)

Onse Reef Offroad & Sandboarding Adventure: Brgy. 23, Bacsil, 2902 Paoay, Ilocos Norte. Mobile numbers: (0919) 650-4633 (Smart), (0917) 503-9543 (Globe), (0921) 738-0616 (Smart) and  (0999) 710-2779 (Globe). Email: Paoay.sandunes@yahoo.com. . Website: www.onsereef.com. Open daily, 5 AM – 7 PM.

Taoid: A Museum of the Cordilleras in Ilocos Norte (Laoag City)

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Taoid: A Museum of the Cordilleras in Ilocos Norte

Taoid: A Museum of the Cordilleras in Ilocos Norte

Inaugurated last November 17, 2015, the Taoid Museum is located a stone’s throw away from the Laoag Provincial Capitol. The museum showcases a Pre-Colonial side of Ilocandia and the province’s Cordilleran roots.

Mga Sagisag ng Pagka-Lalake at Pagka-Babae (Symbols of the Masculine and Feminine)

Mga Sagisag ng Pagka-Lalake at Pagka-Babae (Symbols of the Masculine and Feminine)

Pamumuno at Karangyaan (Leadership and Wealth)

Pamumuno at Karangyaan (Leadership and Wealth)

A tribute to the indigenous people in the municipalities of Nueva Era, Dumalneg, Carasi and Adams, it focuses on the ancient trade relations that Ilocanos had with the different tribes from the Cordilleras, whose culture and belief systems share many similarities.

Hagabi (prestige lounging bench)

Hagabi (prestige lounging bench)

A coffin

A coffin with lizard design on lid

The two-story museum was inspired, conceptualized, put together and curated by Mr. Floy Quintos, a nationally renowned director and screenwriter, and designed by Ohm David, resident technical director of Dulaang Unibersidad ng Pilipinas.

Balog (trophy carabao skull)

Balog (trophy carabao skull)

Iugao bulul

Iugao bulul (rice god)

It is divided into seven sections – “In the Home in the Village,” “In the Fields,” “Symbols of the Masculine and the Feminine,” “Leadership and Wealth,” “Warfare, Headhunting and Vengeance,” “One with the Ancestors in Healing and in Death” and “A Continuance.”

Bontoc house detail (probably a hanger)

Bontoc house detail (probably a hanger)

Ifugao Percussion Instruments

Ifugao percussion instruments

The glassed-in displays of authentic Ifugao ethnographic and historical items are on loan, many of which are from avid collectors like Gov. Imee Marcos. Visitors can also touch and inspect some artifacts, a feature that parents with inquisitive school-aged kids will appreciate.

Bontoc flat dish for meat

Bontoc flat dish for meat

Baskets for gathering snails

Baskets for gathering snails

Hinagit (trophy skull plaque)

Hinagit (trophy skull plaque)

Among the items on display are a tudoh, an Ifugao cursing object used only by accomplished shamans.   Considered one of the most potent of vengeance rite paraphernalia, it uses a crocodile skull, a small wooden bulul figure and hawk’s wings lashed to a woven fiber plaque.

Tudoh (Ifugao cursing object)

Tudoh (Ifugao cursing object)

The Wake of Malakai

The Wake of Malakai

There’s also a life-size reproduction of “The Wake of Malakai,” a leader of the Tingguian tribe.  Above the figures is a display of blankets, wrap-around skirts and loincloths that indicate the great wealth of the deceased.  It also wards off evil spirits that would have to count each thread of the textiles displayed before they could harm the deceased or his family.

Ifugao porcelain wine jar with woven cover

Ifugao porcelain wine jar with woven cover

Ilongot machetes

Ilongot machetes

Also on display are baskets, weapons (spears, shields, Kalinga and Bontoc head axes, Ilongot machetes, etc.), bululs (rice gods), wine jars, padao (territory markers), a balog (trophy carabao skull), a hinagit (trophy skull plaque), a granary door and a hagabi (prestige lounging bench).

Padao (territory marker)

Padao (territory marker)

Sagawsaw (wooden substitute head)

Sagawsaw (wooden substitute head)

Walking through the museum, visitors get to form a fuller, more vibrant image of the connection shared between these geographical neighbors—one that exists up to this day.

Our guide Ken, Albert, Almira and Melissa

Provincial Tourism Office staff Ken with museum visitors Albert, Almira and Melissa Tinonas

Taoid Museum: Tabacalera Lifestyle Center, Gen. Luna cor. Llanes Sts., 2900 Laoag City, Ilocos Norte. Admission: PhP40 for adults and PhP30 for children aged 7-12 years old. Open daily, 8 AM – 5 PM.

Museo Ilocos Norte (Laoag City)

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Museo Ilocos Norte

Museo Ilocos Norte

Also called the Laoag Museum and Gameng (an Iloco word meaning “treasure”), this impressive an snazzy lifestyle museum, managed by Gameng Foundation Inc., is located beside the city hall and a block away from the city plaza.

Museo Ilocos Norte (2)

One of the better ethnographic museums in the country, it is housed in the restored former Spanish-era Camarin de Tobacco de la Tabacaler or tobacco storage house which was erected in 1878. Opened last December 31, 1999 by Gov. Ferdinand R. Marcos, Jr., it replaced the Ilocandia Museum of Traditional Culture which dates back to 1977.

Museo Ilocos Norte (1)

At one corner of the museum is a 75 cm. excavation done by the National Museum on February 2004 exposing the different floor levels of the building.

National Museum archaeological excavation

National Museum archaeological excavation

This museum is divided into 15 main sections, each one narrating an aspect of the province’s history. The items are arranged by themes such as ‘The Land (Iti Tak-Dang),” “The Sea (Ti Baybay/Taaw),” ‘The Highland (Kabanbantayan Ken Tanap),” “The Farm (Ti Talon),” “The Market (Ti Tiendaan),” and “The Town (Ti Ili).”

The Highland (Kabanbantayan Ken Tanap)

The Highland (Kabanbantayan Ken Tanap)

The Market (Ti Tiendaan)

The Market (Ti Tiendaan)

The Sea (Ti BaybayTaaw)

The Sea (Ti BaybayTaaw)

The Town (Ti Ili)

The Town (Ti Ili)

The Laud (West) Gallery displays a dap-ayan (meeting place)  while the Daya (East) hallway describes the beginnings of Ilocos Norte.

Dap-Ayan

Dap-Ayan

Ulnas ken karison (carabao-drawn sled and wagon)

Ulnas ken karison (carabao-drawn sled and wagon)

At the Abatagan (South) end of the museum stands a replica of a typical, two-storey, fully-furnished bahay na bato (stone house, Ti Daan nga Balay) whose façade is based on the Lazo Residence in Bacarra.

Dining area

Dining area

Sala (Living Area)

Sala (Living Area)

Bedroom

Bedroom

Kitchen

Kitchen

Weaving loom

Weaving loom

Also on display are properly labeled samples of abel iloko and musical instruments such as the pito (bamboo flute), kulkulutong (bamboo zither), the ludag (log drum) and tangguyob (carabao horn).

Musical instruments

Musical instruments

Teatro

Teatro

A teatro (theater) for small groups has, behind the curtains, a monitor for a 15-minute video showing the musical traditions of the province.

Pugon

Pugon

The museum’s West Gallery displays a typical pugon made with bamboo slats, mud, dried leaves and carabao dung. Derived from the Spanish word fogon meaning “furnace,” it is a structure where tobacco leaves are flue-cured.

Traditional Ilocano Clothing

Traditional Ilocano Clothing

A calesa

A calesa

Also on display are a large collection of Ilocano, Igorot and Itneg traditional clothing; weapons; accessories, household utensils, calesas, ceremonial objects, an alang (Itneg house) and small furniture of the ethnic tribes of Northern Luzon.  One room is dedicated to the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos.

An alang (Isneg House)

An alang (Isneg House)

Ferdinand E. Marcos Exhibit

Ferdinand E. Marcos Exhibit

There is also a museum gift shop (Museo Sarusar Shop) selling travel guide books and the very best Ilocos Norte souvenirs (ref magnets, key chains, pottery, bags, baskets, shellcraft, woo carvings, etc.) and  popular food products such as cornik and basi. Outside the museum is a dapil (sugar mill).

Museo Sarusar Shop

Museo Sarusar Shop

Ilocano food products

Ilocano food and souvenir products

A useful brochure in English comes with the ticket and everything is also well labeled in English. The visit is best done clockwise.

Dapil (Sugar Mill)

Dapil (Sugar Mill)

Museo Ilocos Norte: cor. Gen. A. Luna St.  and Don Vicente Llanes Ave., Laoag City, Ilocos Norte. Open Mondays to Saturdays, 9 AM to 5 PM, and Sundays, 10 AM – 5 PM.  Tel: (077) 770-4587. Website: www.museoilocosnorte.com.   Admission: PhP50.

Abolition of Tobacco Monopoly Monument (Laoag City, Ilocos Norte)

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Abolition of Tobacco Monopoly Monument

This obelisk of clay and brick was erected on November 28,1882 by alcalde mayor (provincial governor) Don Jose Moreno Lacalle as a gesture of thanksgiving to King Alfonso XIII of Spain for abolishing the hated tobacco monopoly, during the incumbency of Gov. Fernando Primo de Rivera, in accordance with a royal decree issued on June 5, 1881.

NHI Plaque

The tobacco monopoly,  established by Gov. Jose Basco y Vargas by virtue of the royal decree of February 9, 1780, aimed to bring in large profits for the government and make the Philippines the leading tobacco producer of the world.

However, it oppressed the Ilocano farmers and landowners as no one could raise or sell a single leaf of tobacco without first having permission from the government.    The suppression of the monopoly was completed in 1884 and tobacco remains to be a major cash crop in the province.

Abolition of Tobacco Monopoly Monument: A. Bonifacio St., Laoag City, Ilocos Norte.

How to Get There: The monument is located at the foot of Marcos Bridge, over the Laoag River.

Malacanang of the North (Paoay, Ilocos Norte)

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Malacanang ti Amianan

After our short stopover at Paoay Lake in Paoay, we now proceeded to the two-storey Malacanang ti Amianan (Malacañang of the North), one of the 29 former vacation houses of the Marcoses.  This was to be our last Lakbay Norte 2 tourist destination. Located uphill, on the first road past the Maharlika Hall of Fort Ilocandia Resort Lake Golf and Country Club, this hardwood mansion was built in 1977 by former First Lady Imelda Marcos, along the edge of Paoay Lake, to commemorate the 60th birthday of the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos and as a vacation home and cabinet meeting place.

The baby grand piano beside the grand staircase

After the Marcoses lost power in 1986, the property was sequestered and the Philippine Tourism Authority was given custodianship of the property for 24 years but had neglected its upkeep.  When Imee Marcos became governor of Ilocos Norte in 2010, she had the house restored at a cost of PhP7 million and inaugurated it again on January 1, 2011. During the restoration, all the wooden furniture sets and fixtures were reupholstered or repaired. Now a museum and a venue for grand weddings, private functions and corporate and theme events, it has a photo gallery of the late president  and displays some of the personal belongings of the Marcoses, life-size Ferdinand Marcos mannequins and Congresswoman Imelda’s Cora Jacob arm candy and other clutches.

Life-size Ferdinand Marcos mannequins

The museum was supposed to be closed during our visit, it being a Monday, but our media group was given special permission to visit by the provincial government.  Ms. Letty Buduan, who served the Marcoses for over three decades, and seven others keep the museum spic and span.  The narra floors were so shiny and the furniture dust-free.  In the past, visitors here included George Hamilton, Nora Aunor, Gabby Concepcion, among others.  Nowadays, bus loads of school children and guests frequent this museum which offers a breathtaking and panoramic view of Paoay Lake, especially during sunset.

Formal dining area

This huge, 1,900 sq. m. mansion, on a  roughly 4 hectare lot, has nine luxurious bedrooms, two living rooms, two formal dining areas, two kitchens and two verandahs. Imelda Marcos’ bedroom, the largest of the nine, displays some of her handbags.  Imee and Irene shared a bedroom while Bongbong’s and the late president’s master bedroom were both located at the ground floor.  They all slept in canopied beds.  A baby grand piano is located by the staircase.

The verandah with its panoramic view of Paoay Lake

After our Malacanang ti Amianan Museum visit, we all boarded our bus as we headed back to Laoag City for our 9:30 PM return flight back to Manila.  But first, we had dinner at Texicano Hotel and there, said goodbye to our gracious hosts, the Ilocos Norte Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Malacanang ti Amianan: Brgy. Suba, Paoay, Ilocos Norte. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM-11:30 PM.  Admission fee: PhP30 for adults and PhP10 for children.

Ilocos Norte Convention and Visitors Bureau: Room 2, Balay da Blas, 10 Giron St., Brgy. 7-B, Laoag City, Ilocos Norte.  Mobile number: (0920) 269-1544.  E-mail: stevebarreiro@yahoo.com.  Website: http://northphilippines.org/destinations/ilocos-norte.

Paoay Lake National Park (Ilocos Norte)

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Cattle and boats for hire line the lake shore

After our brief sojourn in Batac City, we next proceeded to the Malacanang Ti Amianan (Malacanang of the North) in Paoay.  Along the way, we made a brief stopover at the view deck of Paoay Lake National Park.  This 470-hectare, horseshoe-shaped lake, the largest in the province, was declared as a National Park on June 21, 1969 by virtue of Republic Act No. 5631.  Once known as Naguyudan, it is known to the locals as Dakkel a Danum and is a popular picnic site. The lake is artificially seeded with various species of colorful fish and is 10 m. deep, yet the surface is below sea level.  Its fresh water comes from a subterranean source.

Lakbay Norte 2 at Lake Paoay National Park

According to a charming but Sodom and Gomorrah-like legend, it is said that a once-prosperous town, San Juan de Sahagun, once stood where the lake is now.  The materialism of the town and the indolence of its people incurred God’s wrath, so he sent an earthquake and flood waters that swallowed up the town and formed the lake.   Town elders will tell you that the original townsfolk, in gaudy fiesta finery, can still be seen as colorful, transformed fishes swimming around with earrings and bracelets.  Geological studies indicate that the lake was formed by a massive earthquake that caused the ground to sink and be filled with water from underground springs.  

A barge used to cross the lake

The lake is ideal for bird watching   Common residents here include the endemic Philippine Duck (Anas luzonica), the White-Collared Kingfisher (Halcyon chloris), the White-Throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smymensis), the Brahminy Kite, cattle egret and little egret. Migratory birds that linger for a while here include the Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula), the Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea), great egret and the osprey. Cottages (PhP50) can be rented at the viewing deck.

Paoay Lake is located north of Paoay town, 3 kms. off the main highway and 3 kms. from the sea.

Batac Empanada versus Vigan Empanada (Batac City, Ilocos Norte)

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Batac Riverside Empanadaan

The Ilocos empanada (a local meat and vegetable-filled pastry), which comes in two varieties, is one of my favorite local snacks and I’ve tried the Vigan variety when I was in Ilocos Sur’s Heritage Village. Back in Batac City during the Lakbay Norte 2 media tour, this time I was going to try out the Batac variety, reputably the best empanada in the region.  They are also a lot bigger than the regular empanadas sold in Metro Manila.  The Ilocos empanada, similar to a taco but closed, is actually of Spanish and Mexican origin and the basic empanada has a galapong (rice flour) crust filled with grated green papaya, chopped longanisa (pork sausage) shredded carrots, fried egg and mongo bean sprouts (togue or balatong).

The dough is prepared

The place to go for this delicacy is the Batac Riverside Empanadaan situated beside the Quiaoit River. Here, numerous food stalls sell, aside from empanada, Ilocano dishes as well as street food such as longanisa and isaw which locals curiously dip in ketchup rather than vinegar.  Unlike the colorless, crunchier and thin-crusted Vigan empanada, the crust (pinais) of the Batac empanada is a bright golden orange color because of the annatto or atsuwete (or achuete), thicker and is less crispy. The Batac empanada uses the entire egg while in the Vigan variety, the egg white is removed (the egg white was an important building material at that time).  

An egg is added

The Batac empanada also uses the saltier Laoag longanisa while the Vigan variety uses the vinegar-seasoned, small, plump and garlicky Vigan longanisa. Many Vigan empanadas also do not have the mongo bean sprouts, just the grated green papaya, and are wrapped in banana leaves.  The vinegar (sukang iloko) dip used also accentuates the differences between the two varieties. The very strong Vigan vinegar has an alcohol-like fermented taste while the sour Laoag vinegar usually has bird’s eye chili (siling labuyo) added to it.

The finished product. Yummmm!!!!

At our selected stall, we had a choice of having just an ordinary empanada with just the grated papaya, mongo bean sprouts and egg (PhP30); the ordinary eggless empanada with just the vegetables; the special empanada with longanisa and egg (PhP35); the special eggless empanada with longanisa but no egg;  the special empanada with everything minus the mongo bean sprouts; the jumbo empanada with hot dog (PhP50); the double special empanada with two longanisas and one egg; the double egg empanada with one longanisa and two eggs; and the double double empanada with two longanisas and two eggs. Estan Cabigan and I chose the last, the heaviest of them all, which we shared.  The cook first lays huge amounts of the abovementioned ingredients inside the orange dough, seals it and then deep fries it.

Batac Riverside Empanadaan: Valdez, Batac City, Ilocos Norte.

Marcos Museum and Mausoleum (Batac City, Ilocos Norte)

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Marcos Museum and Mausoleum

We were now on our last day of our 6-day North Philippines Visitors Bureau (NPVB)/Manila North Tollways Corp. (MNTC)-sponsored Labay Norte 2 media tour and, after our Playa Tropical Resort Hotel presscon in Currimao, we returned again to the Ilocos Norte Hotel and Convention Center for lunch and another presscon, this time with former presidential daughter and now Ilocos Norte Gov.  Maria Imelda “Imee” R. Marcos.   After that, we proceeded to nearby Batac City to visit the Marcos Museum and Mausoleum and the Imelda Marcos Gallery.  This would be my second visit to the former and my first to the latter. A few meters from the museum is the Romanesque-style Church of the Immaculate Conception. 

The presidential table

The Marcos Museum and Mausoleum was the colonial-style, wood and adobe boyhood ancestral home of the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos who moved to Batac from Sarrat when he was 8 years old.  Housing the memorabilia of the former president, this modest, 3-room museum has a wall dedicated to Marcos’ wartime service in the Philippine Army, as a soldier in the defense of Bataan and with American Forces after liberation. There are also photos of him and Imelda, his military awards, his letters, important documents, license plates of his cars, the bust of the president and his work desk at Malacanang. At the second floor are the offices of former presidential children Ferdinand “Bongbong” E. Marcos, Jr. (now a senator) and Gov. Imee R. Marcos when they were Second District congressmen. 

Imelda Marcos Residence

On the right side of the house is the Marcos Mausoleum where the glass-encased, embalmed corpse of the late president lies, since 1993, in a vacuum-sealed, refrigerated crypt.  Marcos died in exile in Hawaii on September 28, 1989 and his body was brought to his hometown in Batac while awaiting a state funeral at the Libingan ng mga Bayani.  The president is dressed in a white barong tagalog with a red, white and blue ceremonial sash and polished medals. The dimly lit interior is filled with piped-in soft Gregorian chant music. Visitors are not allowed to take pictures inside.  I guess the only time photos were ever taken of Marcos’ corpse was when former First Lady and Imelda R. Marcos visited it for some publicity shots.

Marcos Photo Gallery

Also within the compound is another ancestral house used as the office of now Second District congresswoman Imelda Marcos.  We also dropped by the nearby Marcos Photo Gallery (World Peace Center), a 200-photo archive of the Marcos family. They include a collage of news clippings and photos during the Marcos era.  Prior to leaving Batac City for Paoay, I bought a cowboy hat (PhP150) at one of the sidewalk stalls and tried out the Batac empanada. 

Marcos Museum and Mausoleum: Marcos Ave., Batac City, Ilocos Norte. Open daily, 9 AM- 12 noon and 1-4 PM.