Category Archives: Sightseeing

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint (Cappadocia, Turkey)

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Pigeon Valley Viewpoint

Prior to returning to our hotel, we made a short stopover at the Pigeon Valley (Güverçinlik Vadisi) Viewpoint. The valley, running between Uçhisar and neighboring Göreme (a walk of around two hours), has many pigeon-houses which were carved, over the course of the years, into the soft tuff rock on the sides of the fairy chimneys.

Pigeon houses carved on the side of the mountain

Inside were many niches where pigeons could roost. Nutrient-rich pigeon guano was widely used as a natural fertilizer into the 1970s. Pigeon droppings were also used to enhance the colors of the frescoes in the cave churches.

View of Uchisar Castle (upper left hand corner) and the villages below it

You can also see the otherworldly scenery of Uchisar Castle (Uçhisar Kalesi) perched on top of a rocky pinnacle.  One of the most prominent landmarks in Cappadocia, this ancient fortress, regarded as the tallest fairy chimney in the area.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

This 60 m. ( 200 ft.) high turret of golden volcanic rock was sculpted by the elements and, later, by humans, the earliest of whom are believed to be the Hittites from the second millennium BC., followed by Byzantine settlers in the 4th century AD.  It boasts stunning, unparalleled and panoramic view of Uchisar village and nearby hamlets.

The viewpoint is home to cafes selling tea, coffee and light snacks as well as a few shops selling overpriced souvenirs and local craft.  Across the street, you can take pictures or ride, for a fee, with camels.  Near the edge is a touristy love picture site for photo ops.

Cappadocia Natural Viagra Market

You can also feed the pigeons and sparrows with grain that can be bought at stores (1TL per cup). Also nearby is a hiking trail and the Cappadocia Natural Viagra Market, a store selling natural and organic Viagra, herbs, spices and different kinds of nuts (almonds, etc.) and dried apricots.

Camels for hire

Within the area is an evil eye tree dripping with Turkish nazar boncugu (which literally means “evil eye bead”) amulets which look like small shiny fruit or glinting glass eyes.  These lovely, inky blue talismans have deep cultural symbolism in Turkey and Greece.

Evil Eye Tree

Symbolizing the jealous and envious looks of others, these eye-shaped amulets are fixed to anything perceived to attract greed, envy or ill will, to ward off evil.  People who buy these (1TL each) can hang it up the tree in the direction opposite to that of the person.

Nazar boncugu

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint: Aşağı, Adnan Menderes Cd., 50240 Uçhisar/Nevşehir Merkez/Nevşehir, Türkiye.

A Hot-Air Balloon Ride in Cappadocia (Turkey)

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Hot-air balloon beside a stone spire

The thrilling Hot-Air Balloon Ride of Cappadocia, one of the best ways to discover and explore this rugged, historical region in east-Central Anatolia in the Asian part of Turkey, is a must-do if you are in the area. Here, we were to see scenic Cappadocia like you’ve never seen it before, through this once-in-a-lifetime, 1.5 hour-long flight on board a colorful hot air balloon. To do this, we had to stay at least a night in Cappadocia (the balloon ride starts very early in the morning, before sunrise), staying at the Solem Cave Suites (in the province of Nevsehir), on top of a hill, with its stunning views of cave houses.  From Istanbul, it was a one hour and 20 min. flight, via Turkish Airlines, to Kayseri Erkilet Airport, our gateway to Cappadocia.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Solem Cave Suites” and “Kayseri Erkilet Airport”

Inflating the hot air balloon……

This has been planted firmly at the top of my bucket list ever since I saw photos of the magical Cappadocian landscape topped with a sky filled with colorful hot air balloons. The most popular location in the world for hot air ballooning, last year, over half of the world’s balloon trips took place in the Cappadocia region, with almost half a million people taking to the skies.

Hot air balloons now ready to take flight…..

Cappadocia has an amazing and spectacular landscape of cave-like dwellings, the animal rock formations of Devrent Valley, fairy chimneys, towns such as Mustafapasa, and the rock-hewn, domed churches dating back to the Byzantine post-Iconoclastic Period, as far back as 4th century, all sculpted by erosion over thousands of years. Today, what is left are these amazing troglodyte villages, underground cities that once contained human habitat and beautiful valleys that go for as far as the eye can see.

Balloons about to take off

Cappadocia is also one of the few places in the world you can soar in a balloon almost all year round, with trips running during boiling hot summers and snowy winters (when the whole area is covered in a thick layer of snow), with the landscape looking incredible in both. For our hot-air balloon flight, we chose Atmosfer Balloon. Based in Avanos town and under Dorak Holding, it has been around since 2010 and is Cappadocia’s fourth biggest hot air balloon company.

Balloons now taking to the air….

In the flight zone of Cappadocia, Atmosfer Balloons holds 10 slot rights (7 slots in the first flight period and 3 slots in the second).  It currently has a fleet of 18 hot-air balloons (max. flying capacity: 203 passengers) and actively employs 12 commercial pilots , 13 assistant pilots and 50 ground staff.

The author and Grace

Early in the morning (3:30 AM), a driver from Atmosfer Balloons picked us up from our hotel, along with other guests from the hotel and the nearby Dere Suites Cappadocia Hotel, and transferred us, via a Mercedes Benz van, to the balloon site.

Sunrise over Cappadocia

(photo: Sean Sta. Maria)

During our trip, we stopped by the roadside and were given a light breakfast of pastries and packed drinks while waiting for the decision, by the Directorate General of Civil Aviation (DGCA), on whether it would be safe to fly. When the green flag was given, we set off to the balloon take-off zone, chosen by our pilot, that is appropriate for the latest local weather and wind direction. Since the balloons move in the direction of the wind, they are different from each other every day.

Soaring over the moon-like landscape

At the take-off zone, we watched the stages of balloon preparation and inflation. Our unique Parliament blue and yellow-colored hot air balloon, produced by Spanish Ultra Magic company, one of the leading hot air balloon manufacturers in the world, consisted of a burner system, a basket and an envelope.

Ripstop nylon is the most common material for the envelope, but polyester and other fabrics are also used. The fabric around the lower opening (called the mouth) of the balloon are usually made from a fire resistant material like Nomex, similar to the suits that firefighters wear.

The 3,864 m. high Mount Erciyes, an inactive volcano, is the highest mountain and most voluminous volcano of Central Anatolia

To board the balloon, they lay the woven wicker basket (wicker is used because it is lightweight, flexible and easily repaired). on the side, with deflated balloons lying on their sides, and you crawl in. It was quite a sight to see, up close, the busy balloon staff setting them up, checking them for safety and starting to inflate the balloon (it takes 15 mins.).

Our balloon pilot

Balloons operate through the basic principles of gravity and heat transfer.  As the air inside the balloon is heated, it rises and, as the air inside the balloon cools, it descends.  To make the balloon fly, an inflator fan fills it with air which is then heated by propane in stainless steel fuel tanks.  hot air balloons carry 60 to 110 gallons (120 to 200kg) of propane and use roughly 75% of the fuel during a single flight.

Horseback riders

Soon after, it was time to hop into the now upright basket which is split into 5 sections – 4 squares on each side, which each fit 4 people, and a long section, in the center, for our Atmosfer Balloons pilot Yassir and his assistant.  Upon boarding our balloon, general information on flight safety and flight is given by Yassir and our flight over Cappadocia began. During flight, the balloons range from 5 m. to 800 m. in altitude.  Winds determined our balloon’s direction and Yassir steered our balloon, to a limited extent, by adjusting the balloon’s altitude to make use of different wind speeds and directions.

Cave houses

We drifted peacefully, before sunrise, for an extraordinary, amazing and unbelievably breathtaking, 360-degree views of Cappadocia, seeing all its landmarks from above. During our flight, the day was like a fiesta, with the sky filled with around 100 balloons with different colors and designs. We didn’t have to worry though (actually, the view of the other balloons in the sky made it a completely magical experience) as Cappadocia happens to be one of the most highly regulated places, with an excellent safety record.

The fairy chimneys of Cappadocia

Our pilot Yassir was very experienced, navigating the incredibly uneven landscape, flying safely so close to other balloons, in an aircraft which only has the ability to go up and down.  To fly here, he must train for around 5 times as long as in other parts of the world.  While piloting our balloon, he also explained all the sceneries that we saw during the flight.

Our hot air balloon being repacked …..

The views, over the next hour or so, were breathtaking and the landscape constantly changing color, as the minutes ticked by, as we drifted through the different areas. We passed the famous Fairy Chimneys (natural yet surreal-looking spires, up to 40 m. tall, that were carved out of soft volcanic rock by the elements over millions of years), Monk’s Valley (Pasabag Valley), the beautiful Devrent Valley (renowned for its surreal and otherworldly landscape which has earned the valley the nickname “Lunar Landscape” or “Moonscape”), pigeon houses, plenty of cave houses and vineyards.

Check out “Fairy Chimneys of Monk’s Valley “ and “Devrent Valley”

From the amazing maximum altitude of about 800 m., the panoramic views of surreal, moon-like landscape of the region was completely mind-blowing while, from the lowest points, we could almost pick fruit from the trees. The motion back to the ground was effortless and we landed precisely near the balloon’s trailer.  It took about 15 mins. to deflate the balloon and pack the balloon after flight.

The champagne toasting ceremony

Once back on dry land, we were rewarded with a champagne toasting ceremony (they are also trained in such things as champagne service and flower arrangements) and a personalized flight certificate.  Overall, it was a very impressive, professional and truly great, unparalleled and unforgettable experience.

Jandy and Grace back on dry land

Atmosfer Balloons: Cumhuriyet, Göreme Yolu No:1, 50500 Avanos/Nevşehir, Turkey. Tel: +90 384 219 26 43. E-mail: fly@atmosferballoons.com. Website: www.atmosferballoons.com.

Devrent Valley (Cappadocia, Turkey)

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Devrent Valley

After our exploration of the Fairy Chimneys of Pasabag, we returned to our van and made two stopovers, at viewpoints, before proceeding to our hotel.  The first was at the beautiful Devrent Valley in Cappadocia (locally known as Imaginary Valley).

Check out “Fairy Chimneys of Pasabag”

Nestled in the heart of Cappadocia, it is renowned for its surreal and otherworldly landscape (which has earned Devrent Valley the nickname “Lunar Landscape” or “Moonscape”) that sparks the imagination and transports you to a realm of wonder.  This enchanting valley, full of unique rock formations that are some of the best formed and most thickly clustered in Cappadocia, offers a unique experience like no other.

The Camel

Most of the striking and stunning pink-hued or rosy rock cones are topped by flattish, darker stones of harder rock that sheltered the cones from the rain until all the surrounding rock was eaten away, over thousands of years by wind and water, in a process known to geologists as differential erosion, creating intriguing pillar-like shapes.

The Elephant

The beauty of this captivating spot in Cappadocia is that has very easy driving access and isn’t as crowded as the open-air museums and iconic cave dwelling locations. Devrent Valley was never inhabited by humans, making it a unique geological wonder.

The Kissing Ducks

There are no rock-cut churches or castles to explore. It’s essential to keep in mind that the valley can get crowded, especially during peak tourist seasons. To avoid crowds, consider visiting early in the morning, late in the afternoon, or during lunchtime.

The Hand

As we ventured into this mesmerizing realm, we witnessed a natural masterpiece sculpted by centuries of wind and water erosion. At the entrance of the valley, one of the first sights that greet us was an enormous rock which looks like a camel. A lot more imagination is needed to spot the other whimsical animal-shaped (dolphin, seals, lions, bears, tigers, kissing birds, alligator, snake, etc.) rock formations. Other weird rock shapes resemble a Napoleon’s hat and a praying Virgin Mary. Devrent Valley left an indelible mark on my Cappadocia adventure, leaving me awe-inspired.

The Virgin Mary

Devrent Valley: Goreme El Sanatlari Carsisi No: 24 50180, Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey. Tel: +90 384 271 2166. Fax: +90 384 271 2337. Email: info@newgoreme.com.  The entrance to the valley is free of charge.

How to Get There: Devrent Valley is located 11.3  kms. (a 20-min. drive) from Goreme, aproximately 1 km. from Pasabag Valley, 6.6 kms. from Avanos, and 15.6 kms. from Uchisar. If you’re staying in Urgup, it’s just a short 5.7-kilometer drive to reach this enchanting destination.

The easiest way to get there is by bus or rental car directly from either Göreme or Ürgüp. Buses run regularly throughout the day, every hour departure and take around 10 – 15 minutes. The ‘Blue Route’ on the hop-on-hop-off bus also includes Devrent Valley. Devrent Valley lies on the direct (east) road between Avanos and Ürgüp. There’s no public transport along this route but if it’s not too hot and you don’t mind a roadside walk, it’s easy enough to get here on foot from Zelve. From the Zelve site entrance, go about 200m back down the access road to where the road forks and take the right-hand road marked for Ürgüp. After about 2km you’ll come to the village of Aktepe (Yeni Zelve). Bear right and follow the Ürgüp road uphill for another 2km.To cut down on walking time, the Ürgüp–Avanos dolmuş can drop you off at Aktepe. Devrent Valley is surrounded by marked hiking trails that connect it with other valleys in the region.

Ross Fountain (Edinburgh, Scotland, UK)

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Ross Fountain with Edinburgh Castle in the background

The highlight of our visit to the Princes Street Gardens was our photo ops at the Ross Fountain, the focus of the western end of the gardens and the park’s most important monument.  This fountain, made from cast-iron, is a shining example of magnificent  19th century sculpture.  Photographs of the view up to the famous Edinburgh Castle from the Gardens, with this fountain in the foreground, has featured heavily in some of the iconic imagery of Edinburgh over the years.

Check out “Princes Street Gardens”

At an exhibit at the Great Exhibition of 1862, an exhibition of modern art, technology and invention in London, it was purchased, on a moment of impulse and as a philanthropic gesture, by Edinburgh gunsmith Daniel Ross (who described it as “obtaining universal admiration”), in September 1869, for £2,000 and, subsequently, gifted to the city of Edinburgh.

The four female, greater than life size figures representing Science, Arts, Poetry, and Industry

That same year, it was transported to Leith, in 122 individual pieces, but sat in storage for a decade while the city council considered where they were going to put it. In 1872, it was reassembled, in its current position, at Princes Street Gardens, only a few hundred yards from the Ross Bandstand. Sadly, David Ross died in January 1871, one year before, missing the opportunity to see the masterpiece displayed in the gardens.

Some of the 8 voluptuous mermaid statues, with bared flesh, holding overflowing urns, and sitting on scallop-shell basins with lion’s heads between

In 2001, as broken pipes had made the fountain inoperational, the fountain had some extensive restoration work completed. In 2008, water was turned off and, from July 2017, it was closed again for further restoration work, costing 1.9 million pounds, undertaken by Lost Art Limited of Wigan on behalf of The Ross Development Trust. On July 8, 2018, it was re-inaugurated by Lord Provost Frank Ross and others, including the Head of Mission at the French Consulate in Edinburgh Emmanuel Cocher.

The beautifully modeled and semi-naked female figure, holding the topmost cornucopia, which scandalized Victorian Edinburgh at the time.

The fountain, now with a new pump that will be switched on permanently, is now painted in eye-catching turquoise, brown and gold which, according to the organizers, should last for at least 20 years. The figures were sculpted by artist Jean-Baptiste Jules Klagmann (b. April 1810) whose other work includes figures for the Louvre and D’ Medici fountains in Luxembourg Gardens in Paris.  It is also unusual in that, rather than having been produced by one of the great Scottish foundries of the day, it was produced at the iron foundry of  Antoine Durenne, ‘Maitre de Forges, Sommevoire Haute Marne’ in Sommevoire, France.

The fountain’s circular basin has curved Craigleith sandstone edges and the first elevated basin is decorated with stylized “walrus” heads round the edge. The first tier of the central column has 8 voluptuous mermaid statues, with bared flesh, holding overflowing urns, and sitting on scallop-shell basins with lion’s heads between. Swags and cornucopia abound, and the bowls above have cherub-faced spouts.

The author (right) with Jandy and Grace (photo: Selena Sta. Maria))

Near the top, with water basins held up by mermaid children, are four female greater than life size figures representing Science, Arts, Poetry, and Industry seated between semicircular basins. The structure is surmounted by a final, beautifully modeled and semi-naked female figure, holding the topmost cornucopia, which scandalized Victorian Edinburgh at the time. All this combines to produce a fountain that is over 40 ft. high and over 100 tons in weight. 

Ross Fountain: West Princes Street Gardens, Princes Street EH2 2HG, Edinburgh. Tel: 0131 529 7921. E-mail: parks@edinburgh.gov.uk.

Pitlochry (Scotland, U.K.)

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Pitlochry

Part of Scottish Highlands Tour

From the Commando Memorial, in Spean Bridge, we drove another 104 kms. (a 1.5 hour drive, via the A86 and A9), to Pitlochry, our last stopover.  This was to be our last toilet break, prior to our return to Edinburgh, and there was a long queue at the town’s public toilet (or the “loo” as they call it), causing a lot of misery (plus they charge 50p per person for using it), so we walked, for about 320 m., along Atholl Road (the main road), to Fishers Hotel where we used the toilet for free.

Check out “Commando Memorial” and “Spean Bridge”

Grace and Jandy strolling along Atholl Road (the main road). On the other side are the unusual period cast iron canopy.

This town, lying on the River Tummel, in the Perth and Kinross council area of Scotland is, historically, in the county of Perthshire. Largely a Victorian town, it was developed into a tourist resort after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visited the area in 1842 and bought a highland estate at Balmoral, and the arrival of the railway in 1863. Popular as a base for coach holidays, it is particularly known for its Pitlochry Festival Theatre and salmon ladder.

Surrounded by mountains such as Ben Vrackie and Schiehallion, it also a centre for hillwalking. The town has retained many stone Victorian buildings and the high street has an unusual period cast iron canopy over one side.   The town has two whisky distilleries, whose visitor centers are popular attractions.  The privately owned Edradour, the smallest legal distillery in Scotland, sits to the east of town at the foot of the Moulin Moor and produces only 12 casks per week with a production workforce of three men.

The last example of a traditional distillery, it has remained unchanged since it started making whisky, and is hugely popular with visitors. Blair Athol Distillery, which dates back to 1798, sits on the main road at the southeast of town and, since 1933, has been owned by Bell’s, now part of the Diageo group.  Pitlochry station is home to Pitlochry Station Bookshop. The bookshop was set up in 2005 and is situated on Platform 1.

MacNaughtons of Pilochry

MacNaughtons of Pitlochry, one of Scotland’s oldest retail establishments (dating back to 1835 in the reign of William IV), is a traditional country and highland clothing retail shop with the finest formal kilt wear knowledge of tartans and kilt outfit accessories.

Back on board our bus, we arrived back in Edinburgh by 8:30 PM and we were all dropped off at our original meeting place at Deacon’s House Cafe. From there, we all walked back to our respective hotels.

MacNaughtons of Pitlochry: Station Road, Pitlochry, PH16 5AF United Kingdom.  Tel: 01796 472722.  Open Mondays to Saturdays, 9.30 AM – 4.30 PM. .Email: sales@macnaughtonsofpitlochry.com.

The Hairy Coo:  Suites 6 & 7, Administrative Office Only, St. John’s Studios, 46A Constitution St., Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RS, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 212 5026.  E-mail: contact@thehairycoo.com. Website: www.thehairycoo.com.

How to Get There: Pitlochry is located 114 kms. (a 1.5-hour drive, via A9 and M90) from Edinburgh and 134.2  kms. (a 1.5-hour drive via A9) from Glasgow.

Fort Augustus (Scotland, U.K.)

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Fort Augustus and the Caledonian Canal

Part of Scottish Highlands Tour

From Spean Bridge, it was another 36.7 kms. (a 30-min. drive), via A82, to Fort Augustus, a charming settlement and popular and busy tourist destination in the parish of Boleskine and Abertarff, at the south-west end of Loch Ness, Scottish Highlands, home of the famous Loch Ness Monster (fondly called Nessie).  Here we were to have lunch and, afterwards, go on a boat cruise around Loch Ness. It was raining throughout when we arrived and we had to bring out our umbrellas to get to Monster Fish & Chips, adjacent to the Jet Petrol Station, where we first tried out a huge serving of its namesake.

Check out “Spean Bridge” and “Loch Ness Cruise”

Monster Fish and Chips

Jet Petrol Station

Until the early 18th century, the settlement was called Kiliwhimin. After the Jacobite rising of 1715, it was renamed Fort Augustus after  Prince William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, one of the sons of King George II.  From 1903 until 1933, the village was served by a rail line, from Spean Bridge, to a terminus on the banks of Loch Ness.  It was built by the Invergarry and Fort Augustus Railway in the hope of eventually completing a line to Inverness and latterly operated by the North British Railway and its successor, the London and North Eastern Railway, but initially operated by the Highland Railway.

Caledonian Canal

 

After lunch, I proceeded to explore the village on foot.  Fort Augustus is centered around the impressive, 96 km. (60 mi.) long Caledonian Canal.  The canal, connecting Fort William to Inverness, passes through Fort Augustus in a dramatic series of locks stepping down to Loch Ness. The canal was built, between 1804 and 1822, under the direction of William Jessop and Thomas Telford.  Boats using the canal are raised and lowered 13 m. by a “ladder” of 5 consecutive locks, all completed in 1820.  The A82 road crosses the canal on a swing bridge at the foot of the 5 locks.

War Memorial Hall

The single storey War Memorial Hall, a public hall converted to the Territorial Drill Hall (and later returned to its original function), was designed by Inverness-born architect John Robertson (1840-1925) and built from 1891 to 1892.  It Italianate style detailing includes round arch windows with unusual convex moldings and deep overhanging beams.  The interior includes a good hammerbeam roof in the main hall.

The Clansman Centre

A memorial plaque, set in a round arch recess at the porch front of the hall, has a battlemented parapet and was built in 1918.  It commemorates the residents of Fort Augustus who were killed or missing in the First World War (21 names) and the Second World War (5 names).

The Mill Shop

The village’s economy is heavily reliant on tourism and all around the town are many gift and souvenir shops selling tartan treats (scarves, blankets, woolen jumpers, etc.), traditional Scottish souvenirs and Nessie souvenirs such as the Caledonian Canal Visitor Centre, The Mill Shop (a converted church), the Fort Augustus Gift Company, the Clansman Centre, etc.

Caledonian Canal Centre

The Caledonian Canal Visitor Centre, beside the lowest lock, offers visitors and locals a wealth of local heritage and internationally renowned local features of the Caledonian Canal (designed by Thomas Telford and opened in 1822), Great Glen and Loch Ness. This world-class visitor and destination hub also offers all year round facilities for visitors, a gift shop promoting relevant and locally sourced goods and a café serving homemade, Scottish produce. There is also a grab and go offer, boasting fresh coffee and local artisan ice cream from the Black Isle Dairy.

Fort Augustus Gift Company

The Clansman Centre, housed in a historic 19th century Victorian schoolhouse, is a quaint little craft and gift shop specializing in Celtic and locally produced crafts and gifts such as silver jewelry, Harris Tweed, tartan, whiskey barrel clocks and frames, Celtic plaques, clan scarves and Nessie souvenirs. An interactive museum, it also offers shows on the Clansmen, featuring live re-enactments with weapons demonstrations, by costumed actors dressed in traditional Highland garb, in a recreated Highland turf house theater.

Bothy Restaurant & Bar

Aside from Monster Fish & Chips, you can also dine at Bothy Restaurant & Pub, The Moorings and the Boathouse.

The Moorings

The Boathouse

Monster Fish & Chips: 6, A82, Fort Augustus PH32 4DD, United Kingdom.

Fort Augustus Gift Company: Main Street, Fort Augustus PH32 4DD, United Kingdom.

The Mill Shop: Mackay Hall, Fort Augustus PH32 4DJ, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 1320 366404. Open daily,10 AM to 4 PM.

Caledonian Canal Visitor Centre: Canal Side, Fort Augustus PH32 4AU, United Kingdom. Open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM. Tel: 01463 725581.  E-mail: stay@scottishcanals.co.uk.

Clansman Centre:   Old Schoolhouse Canal Side, Fort Augustus PH32 4BD, United Kingdom.  Open daily, 11 AM to 4 PM.  Tel: +44 1320 366444.  E-mail: clansmancentre@gmail.com. Website: www.clansmancentre.uk. 

The Hairy Coo:  Suites 6 & 7, Administrative Office Only, St. John’s Studios, 46A Constitution St., Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RS, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 212 5026.  E-mail: contact@thehairycoo.com. Website: www.thehairycoo.com.

How to Get There: Fort Augustus is located 161 kms. (100  mi.) from Edinburgh and 692 kms. (430 mi.) from London. The village is served by the A82 road and lies approximately midway between Inverness (56 kms.) and Fort William (51 kms.) in the Scottish Highlands.  Coordinates: 57.1432°N 4.6807°W.

Spean Bridge (Scotland, U.K.)

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Spean Bridge

Part of Scottish Highlands Tour

From the Three Sisters Viewpoint, another 45-min. (49.56 km.) drive brought us  to Spean Bridge, a small and attractive village This prominent landmark, visible from the A82, offers views across the River Spean valley to the peaks of Ben Nevis and Aonach Mòr to the south.

Check out “Three Sisters Viewpoint”

The village, nestled at the southern end of the Great Glen, was named for the Highbridge, over the River Spean, built by famed military road and bridge-builder Gen. George Wade in 1736 (only the piers now remain).

Mhor Health Pharmacy

This was believed to be the place of the first Jacobite Uprising action in 1745, called the Highbridge Skirmish, where a small force of 11 men and one piper, all Keppoch MacDonalds, fooled government troops into thinking the bridge was heavily defended. These forces were then reported to be chased to Loch Oich, at which place they then surrendered.  The village is best known for its iconic Commando Memorial.

Check out “Commando Memorial”

Spean Bridge Mill

During our short stopover, we dropped by Spean Bridge Mill which has a wide selection of knitwear, accessories and gifts.  Homemade food, tea and coffee is also available at the coffee shop.  The resident weaver there demonstrates his craft on impressive Hattersley Looms. The Whisky Shop beside it boasts over 150 different Scottish malts.

Spean Bridge Mill

Spean Bridge Mill: Station Rd, Spean Bridge PH34 4EP, United Kingdom Tel: +44 1397 712260.   E-mail: speanbridge@ewn.co.uk.

The Hairy Coo:  Suites 6 & 7, Administrative Office Only, St. John’s Studios, 46A Constitution St., Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RS, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 212 5026.  E-mail: contact@thehairycoo.com. Website: www.thehairycoo.com.

How to Get There: Spean Bridge is located around 15.1 kms. (9.4 mi., a 15-min. drive), via the A82, northeast of Fort William in the Scottish Highlands.

Three Sisters Viewpoint (Scotland, U.K.)

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Three Sisters Viewpoint

Part of Scottish Highlands Tour

One of the highlights of our Highlands tour was our visit to Glen Coe, one of the most scenic and beautiful places in the Scottish Highlands. The area around this beautiful green valley is simply unique and breathtaking, a magical land straight out of a medieval story book and worth the visit.

Gearr Aonach and Aonach Dubh

There are various places to pull over and photograph and relax along the A82 (one of the most beautiful roads that the Scottish Highlands has to offer) in Glen Coe, with many trails to hike and scenic vistas. One of the easiest yet most rewarding places to visit in the Scottish Highlands is the Bidean massif’s Three Sisters, one of the most iconic sights in the Highlands and a view that’s emblematic of Glen Coe.

Beinn Fhada and Gearr Aonach

From Rannoch Moor Viewpoint, it was an 8.85-km. drive to the Three Sisters Car Park and its viewpoint where there’s plenty of room for motorists to pull in and take in the sights here.  Along the way, we saw, from a distance, the waterfalls at Allt Coire nam Beithach Glen.

Check out “Rannoch Moor Viewpoint”

Waterfalls at Allt Coire nam Beithach Glen

Also known as Bidean nam Bian Mountain (the highest point in the county of Argyll) in the Scottish Highlands, the “Three Sisters of Glen Coe” are three distinctive, steeply-sided ridges extending into the north.

Jandy and Grace with Gearr Aonach and Aonach Dubh in the background

Also known as Bidean nam Bian Mountain (the highest point in the county of Argyll) in the Scottish Highlands, the “Three Sisters of Glen Coe” are three distinctive, steeply-sided ridges extend into the north.  Residing in the Valley Glen, right off A82, going towards the town of Glen Coe northwest of Glasgow and Stirling, it is a great way to experience the Highlands and learn about the history of Scotland.

This part of Scotland, filled with rolling hills and waterfalls, is accessible year round.  In the summer, green grass surrounds the area and, in late fall/early winter, the grass turns a beautiful yellow brown if it is not covered by snow.

The author

From this classic viewpoint, you have a gorgeous view of the road-facing trio of siblings in question – the 952 m. high Beinn Fhada (or Ben Attow), the 692 m. high Gearr Aonach in the middle and the 892 m. high Aonach Dubh. Each sister is a termination of the northeast reaching ridges that protrude from the main spine of the complex and awe-inspiring Bidean.

These mountains have volcanic origins dating back hundreds of millions of years and the area was carved by glaciers from the last Ice Age, creating this stunning landscape. Gearr Aonach (Short Ridge) and Aonach Dubh (Black Ridge) converge at Stob Coire nan Lochan, a 1,115 m. (3,658 ft.) high subsidiary peak of Bidean nam Bian that lies about 1 km. to the northeast of the actual summit.

Beinn Fhada (Long Hill), the final, most easterly sister, joins the Bidean nam Bian massif at the summit of Stob Coire Sgreamhach.  It is separated from Gearr Aonach by a glen known as Coire Gabhail (translated as “Glen of Capture”).  However, the glen is more normally known as the Lost Valley, as it has a wide flat area concealed from Glen Coe by the landslip which blocked the entrance and allowed a loch to form. The Clan Macdonald  used the valley to hide their livestock from raiders, or hide cattle they themselves had stolen.

Hikers also use the car parking as a starting point for either adventures on the Bidean or to begin an ascent to the Aonach Eagach ridge to the north. However, for the latter, there is more suitable parking along the main road to the east.

Manny, Selena and Paula

Three Sisters Viewpoint: A82, Ballachulish PH49 4HX, United Kingdom.

The Hairy Coo:  Suites 6 & 7, Administrative Office Only, St. John’s Studios, 46A Constitution St., Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RS, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 212 5026.  E-mail: contact@thehairycoo.com. Website: www.thehairycoo.com. 

How to Get There: The Three Sisters viewpoint is located 1795 kms. (a 2-hour and 35 min. drive via A82) from Edinburgh and  138.7 kms. (a 1-hour and 50-min. drive via A82) from Glasgow.

Rannoch Moor Viewpoint (Scotland, U.K.)

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Rannoch Moor

Part of Scottish Highlands Tour

From Loch Tulla Viewpoint, a further 6.76-km. drive brought us to roadside car park by the Loch Ba, off to our right, that lead up a small mound. From here, we had a 360° view across the exposed moorland of the 130 sq. km. (50 sq. mi.) Rannoch Moor (also known as the Great Moor of Rannoch) and the inlets of Loch Ba grasping like fingers at the land.  Here, we could also see the 1,021.4 m. (3,351 ft.) high Buachaille Etive Mor,  Scotland’s most photographed mountain known for its iconic pyramidal shape.

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Buachaille Etive Mor

At an average altitude of 300 m., Rannoch Moor is a a vast, boggy landscape that sits on an elevated grand plateau in the Highlands of Scotland in the Bridge of Orchy near Glen Coe. It is located to the west of Loch Rannoch in Scotland, where it extends from and into westerly Perth and Kinross, northerly Lochaber (in Highland), and the area of Highland Scotland toward its south-west, northern Argyll and Bute.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

Here, at every angle, we virtually see water, whether it is a loch (lake), a lochan (small lake), stream or bog. Its desolate rugged landscape of peat swamps, flowing streams and untouched land, gave me an unsettling sense of “nothingness.” This wild territory, known for its insects, plants and wildlife, is also a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and a Special Area of Conservation and is often referred to as “the last place of wilderness in Britain.” Much of the western part of the moor lies within the Ben Nevis and Glen Coe National Scenic Area, one of 40 such areas in Scotland.

Whilst some patches might look dry, a short walk, without proper boots, soon proved to us how wet and waterlogged the land is as the Rannoch Moor is actually 82% water or bog, making it the largest area of blanket bog in Britain.   Beneath the watery surface of Rannoch Moor lies granite, a hard rock that is impermeable, which means water cannot easily soak through it but collects in pools on top.

During the end of an Ice Age, approximately 12,000 years ago (when much of western Scotland was covered by a large ice cap), the center of the massive ice cap was over Rannoch Moor and, in some places, the ice was more than 400 m. thick. Although ice sheets look vast and immovable, ice does flow inside them very slowly and, over the years, the movement of the ice scraped out holes in the tough granite. Pieces of the rock and sand scoured away by the ice then became frozen within the ice cap.

When the climate improved and the ice melted, the fragments of rock and sand were scattered across the granite. This left a landscape with lots of hummocks where the rocks had been deposited, and lots of holes where the granite had been gouged out. The holes filled with water creating lochs and lochans in the bedrock.

Notable for its wildlife, it was frequently visited by Horace Donisthorpe who collected many unusual species of ants on the moor and surrounding hilly ground. Today it is still one of the few remaining habitats for Formica exsecta, (the “narrow-headed ant”), although recent surveys have failed to produce any sign of Formica pratensis, which Donisthorpe recorded in the area in the early part of the 20th century.

Though only a few plants could grow on top of this watery plateau, it is particularly famous as being the sole British location for the Rannoch-rush, named after the moor. The cold and wet conditions meant there was always plenty of water around, with the constant dampness preventing plant and animal matter from decaying fully and, over thousands of years, this created peat, a thick, dark material rather like soil, that spread across the area, forming an unusual waterworld that is known as a blanket bog.

Dwarf birch (Betula nana)

Not many have tried to inhabit these lands as the boggy territory makes this unlivable. However, this is close to the site of the Massacre of Glencoe between Clan MacDonald and Clan Campbell on February 13,1692 when, as narrated by our driver and tour guide Michael Mitchell, an estimated 30 members and associates of Clan MacDonald of Glencoe were killed by Scottish government forces, allegedly for failing to pledge allegiance to the new monarchs, William III and Mary II.

Marsh fern (Thelypteris palustris)

In the 19th century, the West Highland Line railway, which gently crosses the moorland for 37 kms. (23 mi.), was started to provide a link from Glasgow to Fort William. It took several years as they had to build on soft peat and soil and float the tracks by bringing thousands of tons of earth and ashes over the land and laying a mattress of tree roots, branches and brushwood to stop the railway line from being absorbed by the bog. Today, the railway line still runs but has been extended to Mallaig. Corrour railway station, the UK’s highest, and one of its most remote being 16 kms. (10 mi.) from the nearest public road, is located on this section of the line at 408 m. (1,339 ft.).

Fans of the Highlander  novel series will recognize Rannock Moor in in the fictional novel The Element of Fire where Duncan and Connor MacLeod track the antagonist Khordas to Rannoch Moor. There Duncan defeats Nerissa, Khordas’ female companion.

Many people may also recognize it as a filming location for a number of movies and TV series. This moorland was featured in the TV series Outlander and Kinloch Rannoch was the location for Craigh Na Dun.  It also briefly appeared in the 2010 movie Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows – Part 1 when the Death Eaters board and stop the Hogwarts Express train looking for Harry Potter and Neville then gets up and says “Hey losers, he isn’t here.”  Corrour railway station was also used for the remote rural location scene in 1996’s Trainspotting.

Rannoch Moor Viewpoint: A82, Bridge of Orchy, Highland PA36 4AG. Coordinates: 56°39′15″N 4°35′37″W. Click here for a Google Pin for the viewpoint.

The Hairy Coo:  Suites 6 & 7, Administrative Office Only, St. John’s Studios, 46A Constitution St., Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RS, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 212 5026.  E-mail: contact@thehairycoo.com. Website: www.thehairycoo.com. 

How to Get There: Rannoch Moor viewpoint is located 165kms. (a 2.5-hour drive via A85) from Edinburgh, 116 kms. (a 1-hour 45-min. drive via A82) from Glasgow, and 105.6 kms. (a 90-min. drive via A82 and A84) from Stirling. The A82 road crosses western Rannoch Moor on its way to Glen Coe and Fort William.

Loch Tulla Viewpoint (Scotland, U.K.)

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Loch Tulla

Part of Scottish Highlands Tour

From Callander, a further 74-km. (a one-hour) drive, via the A84, A85 and A82, brought us to the famous Loch Tulla viewpoint, off the A82 just north of Tyndrum and near  Bridge of Orchy, Argyll and Bute.   Along the way, we passed by the Glen Ogle Viaduct, a 12-arch bridge built between 1866 and 1870.

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The Glen Ogle Viaduct

One of the most beautiful viewpoints in Scottish Highlands, it has fabulous views down to the loch below and the surrounding hills and mountains. We parked at the large viewpoint car park and a layby which is popular with visitors, and then enjoyed a little stroll along the fairly large roadside parking area.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

This nice viewpoint, a must visit for us, is very popular with minibus tours as a stop off for photos. This is one of the smaller lochs that you pass if you are walking the popular West Highland Way and can be found close to Inveroran and Bridge of Orchy. The views around here, looking down on Loch Tulla, are amazing.

The loch, lying near the Black Mount mountain range and northeast of the Inveroran Hotel, is 4 kms. (2.5 mi.) long with an average width of 0.8 km.(0.5 mi.).  It has a mean depth of 10 m. (33 ft.) and a maximum depth of 25.6 m.  (84 ft.). The River Orchy flows from the southeastern side of the loch. It contains salmon some of which are bred locally.

Looking round, a square stone cairn caught my eye.  Called the Sir Thomas Munro Memorial Cairn, it is dedicated to the memory of the numerous mountaineers who, over the years, have lost their lives in the Scottish hills, as well as to Scottish mountaineer Sir Hugh T. Munro of Lindertis who, prior to his death in 1919, published the “Munro Tables” in 1891, after a meticulous study of all Scottish mountains in excess of 3,000 ft.

Sir Thomas Munro Memorial Cairn

The cairn contains 795 stones, one from each of the 3,000 ft. high summits of Scotland, known as the “Munros” or “Munro Tops.”  It is obviously a labor of love built in May 2000 by Mr. W.G. Park who remembered to collect a small stone from each one he visited.  The stone on top was taken from the ruins of Munro’s old home of Lindertis.

Memorial plaque

Loch Tulla Viewpoint: A82, Bridge of Orchy PA36 4AG, United Kingdom.

The Hairy Coo:  Suites 6 & 7, Administrative Office Only, St. John’s Studios, 46A Constitution St., Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RS, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 212 5026.  E-mail: contact@thehairycoo.com. Website: www.thehairycoo.com. 

How to Get There: Loch Tulla viewpoint is located 158.5 kms. (a 2-hour and 22 min. drive via M9) from Edinburgh and  118.75 kms. (a 1-hour and 48-min. drive via A82) from Glasgow.