The Lighthouses of Batanes

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Naidi Lighthouse in Basco

From Vayang Rolling Hills, it was a longer, 2.7-km. (10-min.) drive to Naidi Hills, another good leisurely warm-up for a Batanes trek with a unique panoramic view of Baluarte Bay, Basco town, Mt. Iraya, the sunset and the rolling hills.

Check out “Vayang Rolling Hills”

L-R: the author, Gelyn, Des, Jandy, Grace, Lorraine and Jun

It also has a magnificent, 6-storey (66 ft. high), conical lighthouse, built in March 2003,  that stands on the same site of Basco’s first lighthouse and the American period telegraph facilities that connected Batanes with the central government until it was destroyed by the Japanese Imperial Army bombings at the start of World War II.

Historical Plaque

An Ivatan stone house, for the caretaker, constructed with stone or rubble masonry and essentially of vernacular architecture, ushers in visitors (a bed and breakfast service is an added amenity).  The round tower is painted white.

Grace climbing the stairs up to the view deck

As the lighthouse door was unlocked, Grace, Jandy and I climbed the 54 steps up to the fifth floor which has a gallery or view deck.

The author, Jandy and Grace at the lighthouse view deck

The navigational lantern of the Naidi Lighthouse

Here, we had a  view of the whole of Batan Island from end to end, with Basco to the south, Mount Iraya to the north, and the West Philippine Sea to the west. On a clear day, one can also have a clear view of Sabtang Island in the south of Basco, Itbayat Island to the north, plus the islets beyond Itbayat.

View of Basco and Mt. Iraya

View of Basco Port

American-era bunkers

This is just one of the three lighthouses (the other two are the Sabtang Lighhouse in Sabtang and the Tayid Lighthouse in Mahatao) proposed by former Congressman Florencio “Butch” B. Abad of Batanes.  It was built, not only as a working lighthouses to guide seafarers across the perilous waters of the West Philippine Sea and the Pacific Ocean, but also possibly as tourist attractions. All three are capped with a red-painted, concrete lantern rooms with narrow storm panes.

Tayid Lighthouse seen from Racuh a Payaman

The much less accessible Tayid Lighthouse, built in 2000, can be seen from Racuh a Payaman and Diura Fishing Village.  It is hexagonal and faces the mischievous Pacific Ocean.  The Sabtang Lighthouse, perched on a cliff, is also round like the Naidi Lighthouse but its main tower is all made with rubble masonry all the way to the gallery deck.

Check out “Racuh a Payaman”

Sabtang Lighthouse

A fourth lighthouse, within Radiwan Port in Ivana, was activated on December 9, 2022.  It has a luminous range of 28 kms. (15 nautical miles) to sea.

Ivana Lighthouse

A fifth lighthouse (Busbusan Lighthouse), started in 2016, can be found right next to the Mahatao Boat Shelter Port.  A sixth lighthouse, at the Port of Valanga in Itbayat Island, is relatively new and rarely visited.  All six lighthouses are maintained by the Philippine Coast Guard, in partnership with the municipalities of Ivana, Sabtang, Mahatao and the Port of Valanga.

Check out “Mahatao Boat Shelter Port”

Busbusan Lighthouse

These were not the first lighthouses in Batanes as two Spanish-era lampposts or farolas, at the church courtyard and the elementary school grounds in Mahatao, were built in 1879 during the term of Dominican Fr. Crecencio Polo (1867 to 1887).

One of two Spanish-era farolas or range lights in Mahatao

These were used as guiding lights to guide fishermen and early mariners, using lighted oil lamps, safely to the anchorage just beyond the town’s seaport.

Farola historical plaque

Naidi Lighthouse: Naidi Hills, Sitio Diajang, Brgy. San Antonio, 3900 Basco.

Busbusan Lighthouse: National Rd., 3901 Mahatao.

Ivana Lighthouse: Radiwan Port, 3902 Ivana.

Sabtang Lighthouse: San Vicente Port, 3904 Sabtang.

How to Get There: Naidi Lighthouse is located northwest of Basco town proper, a few meters away from Radyo ng Bayan station, it can be easily reached by a 1.2-km. (3/4 mile) hike from the Port of Basco. The Sabtang Lighhouse is a short 10-min. walk from San Vicente Port.

Vayang Rolling Hills (Basco, Batanes)

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Vayang Rolling Hills

From Basco town proper, it was just a short 2.1-km. (5-min.) drive to our next destination – the famous Vayang Rolling Hills.  One of the most picturesque sights in the province, it is covered in verdant grass and patches of green trees.  These seemingly endless wave of hills, shaped by water and wind that gave them the undulating look they now have (as if they’re really “rolling”), are a perfect spot to relax and take in the province’s serene and laidback atmosphere.

The author, Grace and Jandy

Aside from the majestic sea of green grass, we also enjoy an unobstructed, beautiful and breathtaking view of the east and west side of Batan Island, with hedgerows (liveng) and Naidi Hills, on the one side, and of the Chadpidan boulder beach below, with waves crashing to the shore.

Mt. Iraya

Beyond is the majestic Mt. Iraya, Sabtang Island, Itbayat Island, and the deep blue West Philippine Sea. We also saw a number of healthy cows freely grazing on the grass in the hills and gentle slopes as many parts of Vayang are farmland (it is also called Vayang Ranch). Truly like Scotland in a tropical setting.

Cows grazing at the slopes

It is suggested that you visit this scenic viewpoint at around 5 PM, when the sun begins to set, as you could see the sky turn a warm shade of orange over the hills and islands.  The concrete road that crosses the site leads to Valugan Boulder Beach, another famous tourist spot on Batan Island.

Check out “Valugan Boulder Beach”

Hedgerows (liveng)

It was so windy that day that we were literally, as well as figuratively, blown away, making it hard to take decent pictures with hair flying all over the place.  Aside from being a favorite tourist destination, Vayang Rolling Hills is also a great place for pre-nuptial photo shoots. 

The West Philippine Sea seen beyond the hills

Vayang Rolling Hills: Songsong-Iraya Rd., Brgy. San Antonio, 3900 Batanes.

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Basco, Batanes)

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Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

Just 110 m. from the Casa Real is the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception.  Also called the Basco Cathedral or the Church of St. Dominic Guzman, this church is the oldest in the province.

Check out “Casa Real“

Established in 1783, it is dedicated to Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of Batanes Prelature, and was first built, with cogon and wood, in 1783, by Father Baltazar Calderon and Father Bartolome Artiguez.  It was later destroyed by a typhoon. In 1795, the church was rebuilt in stone by Father Francisco de Paula Esteban.

National Historical Institute (NHI) plaque

The present church was built in 1812 by the Father Nicolas Castaño who shortened the nave.  It 1860, the church was burned and, in 1863, it was reconstructed by Father Antonio Vicente.  In 1891, its roof was replaced with galvanized iron by Father Mariano Gomez.

The cathedral interior

In 1950, the church was refurbished by Bishop Peregrin de la Fuente.  In 2002, it was elevated into a cathedral.  During the July 16, 2000 magnitude 7 earthquake, its façade fell to the ground but, under Bishop Jose Salazar, OP, the cathedral was rebuilt, in its original form, by Father Henry Romero, and completed in 2011.

Altar retablo

The church was built in the espadaña style, with two round arches for its two bells on the upper portion of the façade.  Massive pilasters buttress the church walls from foundation to top.

It incorporates the original front and north walls while the rear and south walls are inside the original ruins.  The church is one of the first limestone buildings to be built under the Spanish regime.  The 2-storey convent, beside the church, was built in 1814 by Father Nicolas Castaño.

The 2-storey convent

Mounted in a monument, on the cathedral’s left, is the 1783 Mission Bell, a gift of King Charles III of Spain which was brought by pioneering Dominican friars Baltazar Calderon and Bartolome Artiguez, on board the packet boat Nuestra Senoña de Carmen, which arrived in Batanes on June 4, 1783 and was first rung, during the first Holy Mass celebrated on the plains of Basco, on June 8 and, later, on June 26, during the formal establishment of the Basco Mission.

Mission Bell of Basco – 1783

On March 2018, it was removed, from the belfry, and replaced by new bells from Holland. The 1783 bell was installed, in a monument funded by the Hermanidad de Sto. Domingo de Basco, and blessed on August 15, 2020.

Church of St. Dominic de Guzman: National Road, Basco, 3900 Batanes.  Mobile number: (0947) 209-6510. Feast of St. Dominic de Guzman: August 8.

How to Get There: Philippine Airlines has one hour and 45 minute flights from Manila to Basco.

Casa Real (Basco, Batanes)

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Casa Real (now the Provincial Capitol Building)

After our tour of the Valugan Boulder Beach, we again boarded our van for the short 3-km. (10-min.) drive to the 2-storey Provincial Capitol Building.  Formerly the Casa Real, it was originally built from wood, during the term (1783-1785) of Don José Huelva y Megarejo, the province’s first governor.

Check out “Valugan Boulder Beach”

The building was renovated during the term (1794-1798) of governor Felimon Zenoreta who introduced masonry in Batanes. On December 15, 1856, the Casa Real burned down and it was reconstructed, in stone, in 1872 during the term (1872-1885) of Governor Jose Serra.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2013

On September 18, 1898, Governor Julian Fortea, the last Spanish governor of Batanes, was killed here when revolutionaries stormed the building.  After World War II, under the Philippine Rehabilitation Act of 1946, the capital was restored including the façade.  The stairs was rebuilt to provide a grand entrance.

The Capitol was expanded, during the administration (1989-1998) of Governor Telesforo F. Castillejos, with the construction of the three annex buildings from August 1989 to January 1993 and, on March 18, 1993, the capitol was inaugurated by President Fidel V. Ramos.

During the term (1998-2007) of Governor Vicente Gato, the buildings in the capital building complex were expanded and renovated to address the need for provincial government’s offices. It was inaugurated on March 24, 2007.

Statue of Aman Dangat

To the left of the building is the Statue of Aman Dagat. Also known as Kenan, this mangpus (tribal leader) of Malakdang led about 150 Isabtangs who rose in revolt one moonless night in September 1791 and crossed the treacherous sea to attack the Spanish mission house on Batan Island, killing seven non-Ivatan agents of the Spanish government who poached fruits and timber from Sabtang without payment.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2014

Aman Dagat was later hanged and the natives of Sabtang were exiled to the districts of San Felix and San Vicente in Ivana for the next 50 years (1791-1841).

Memorial to Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and World War II

Behind this statue is the Memorial to the Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and World War II which was unveiled on June 25, 1993, the 210th founding anniversary of Batanes,

Kilometer Zero Marker

In front of the Casa Real is the Kilometer Zero Marker and the Bantayog-Wika. The former is the reference point where all distances on Batan Island are measured from.  It is one of three such in the province, the other being in Sabtang Island  (along the National Road, near the port and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer) and the other in Itbayat  (within the Municipal Grandstand and park).

Check out “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

Bantayog-Wika

The Bantayog-Wika (Language Marker), a project of Sen. Loren Legarda, the local government and the Komisyon ng Wikang Filipino (KWF) recognizing the Ivatan language, was unveiled on April 8, 2019 (Basco Day).  This marker, the 14th installed in the country, seeks to identify areas where the country’s 130 languages originated.  Created by installation artist Luis “Junyee” Yee, Jr. in stainless steel, is inscribed (using laser technology), in baybayin letters, with several lines of Andres Bonifacio’s poem Pag-Ibig sa Tinubuang Bayan which was published in the first issue of Kalayaan, the Katipunan newsletter, in 1896.

Provincial Capitol Building: National Rd., 3900 Basco.  Mobile number: (0917) 326-3744.  E-mail: batanesinformation@gmail.com.

How to Get There: from Basco Airport, take the Diversion Road and turn left into National Road. The Provincial Capitol of Batanes is on the right side.

Valugan Boulder Beach (Basco, Batanes)

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Valugan Boulder Beach

After our tour of the Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel, we gain boarded our van for the 8.3-km. (20-min.) drive to the 3-km. long, scenic Valugan Boulder Beach.

Check out “Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel”

Known to the locals as Chanpan, this beach is located along the eastern (valugan means “east” in Ivatan) coast of Batan Island is, as its name suggests, made up of medium to big size boulders, of different colors, that help create an incredible landscape framed by almost vertical cliffs and rolling hills. Smaller pebbles and shingles litter the southern end.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

The boulders here were said to have been coughed out around the northern half of Batan during a series of volcanic explosions, from 325 B.C. and 286 to 505 A.D., of Mt. Iraya, a nearby active stratovolcano, which also contributed to the formation of the impressive cliffs and rolling hills framing the beach.

Mt. Iraya seen at the end of the beach

These rough andesite rocks were then slowly polished, over time, by the tides and the mighty wind (which also help shaped the striking basalt cliffs) pushing the restless waves of the Pacific Ocean to lap the rough rocks.

The different size boulders along the beach

From the beach, only the loud whistling of the wind and constant rumbling of the Pacific Ocean can be heard as the waves come slapping the shore. While it is a beach, swimming is not allowed here due to the area’s rough terrain and the strong and unpredictable waves. Bringing home any stones from the beach is also prohibited.

The concrete viewing deck with benches

On the rightmost area of the beach are small, intentionally segregated Zen stones piled on top of each other.  Surprisingly, this surreal and breathtaking landscape makes for a relaxing setting especially for photographers who come here to catch the sunrise.

Stairs leading down to the beach

The waters off the coast are considered as a sacred fishing area of Ivatan fishermen (especially those from Brgy. San Joaquin) and the faypatawen, a traditional fishing season, is observed from March to the end of May. 

Grotto of the Blessed Virgin Mary

A tataya (a small, traditional Ivatan fishing boat)

Valugan Boulder Beach: Contra Costa Rd., 3900 Basco. 

How to Get There: Located 3 kms. from Basco town proper, this beach is just a short tricycle ride away. You can hire a tricycle to take you around North Batan, which includes Valugan Boulder Beach.

Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel (Basco, Batanes)

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Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel

After our tour of the PAGASA Radar Station, we again boarded our van for the short drive to the Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel, making a short stopover to see the Basco idjang.  This was my second visit to both.

Check out “PAGASA Radar Station” and the “Idjangs of Batanes”

 

The author at second lower level tunnel entrance

This abandoned 250-m. long interconnected network of six 8-ft. high and 6-ft. wide bat-filled tunnels running deep in the Tukon Hills, carved by local Ivatans out of volcanic rocks and plastered with cement, served as a shelter and lookout for Japanese soldiers during World War II (1941 to 1945).

Water-logged and muddy interior of first lower level tunnel entrance

Moss-coated, water-logged and muddy inter of second lower level tunnel entrance

It has a series of chambers, bunkers, a water reservoir and five openings; three on the upper level (serving as observation points overlooking Baluarte Bay) and the remaining two are on the lower levels.  A concrete bunker on top of the network served as a machinegun nest.

L-R: our guide Harvey Gutierrez, Jandy and Grace

We were able to see the two openings on the lower level along the road but didn’t bother to enter the tunnels as it muddy and water logged inside both openings.

Breadfruit (Tipuho)

Lining the road are a number of breadfruit trees, arius (Podocarpus costalis) trees and angel,s trumpet (katuvang).  The very popular breadfruit, sometimes called abaya or bread leaves, is used to wrap cooked food with (much like the usual banana leaf), giving it a mild aroma and flavor. 

Angel,s Trumpet (Katuvang)

The endemic arius, an excellent ornamental tree, bears edible berries (comparable to that of the duhat) during the months of July to October.

Arius (Podocarpus costalis)

Dipnaysujuan JapaneseTunnels: Tukon Hills, Sitio Tukon, Brgy. Chanarian, 3900 Basco.  Open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free.

How to Get There: Located on Mt. Iraya, below the idjang of Basco, it is along the route from Radar Tukon weather station to Valuga Boulder Beach and is accessible via the Vajangshin Road.   The quickest route is via tricycle, from Basco town, to Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel. For a more convenient trip, join a Batanes guided tour that includes this tourist spot.  Bring a reliable guide and a lamp. From Basco town, head north toward Contra Costa Rd., continue to La Fuenta St., and turn left to National Rd. Continue straight. Japanese Tunnel is on the left side.

The Idjangs of Batanes

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Thousands of years before Spanish colonization, about a thousand pre-Hispanic Ivatans utilized the strategic high ground, living in villages on fortified cliffs and hilltops scattered across today’s Uyugan. These fortified settlements near rocky natural fortresses were called idjangs, derived from the Ivatan word idi or idian, which means “home” or “hometown.” Much of what is known now about idjangs, only initiated in the 1990s, comes from the oral tradition of Ivatans.  These were compiled by native Ivatan Dr. Florentino Hornedo of UST, leading historian on anything relating to Batanes.

These castle-like structures, on elevated rock formations, resemble the gusuku castles of Okinawa (Japan) and some stone-terraced formations in Taiwan.   Pre-Hispanic Ivatans lived in communities of small clans.  During tribal wars for possessions or territory, the clans would climb the idjangs when attacked and throw stones down upon their attackers.

The idjang of Basco

There are 17 of these remnants of stone fortresses on large stone outcrops.  They are located at Brgy. Savidug (Sabtang), Itbayat, Ivana, Mahatao, Brgy. Itbud and Chapidan in Uyugan, Basco and Ivuhos Island (Chuhangin) and Adekey Island off Sabtang.  Artifacts found here include stone tools and implements, earthenware beads, pottery, glass, Chinese ceramics, and human and animal bones. boat-shaped burial markers.

Geologists surmise that the idjang in Basco is molten magma from Mt.  Iraya that cooled off to form a plug for an extinct volcanic crater.  The idjang in Brgy. Itbud (Uyugan) is located at a promontory at the southern end of a beach.

Mt. Iraya

Ancient limestone columns, with holes drilled at one end, are found littered on the idjang slopes.  They may have served as king posts for dwellings or may have once held down cogon dwellings against strong, battering winds.  Some have been recycled as posts for stone houses on Batan Island.  A wall at the idjang’s base (where a creek forks), was made with stones piled on top of each other.  Instead of mortar, they are just held together by pressure from the adjacent stones.

The Chuhangin idjang, in Ivuhos Island (Sabtang), is located on a ledge overlooking the sea and the island’s famed burial grounds.  This idjang is the only one whose sides were built by the ancient Ivatans with stones placed on top of the other without the use of mortar. The Nahini Votox idjang of Itbayat Island has a spectacular view of Dinem and the island’s eastern coast.

The idjang of Brgy. Savidug in Sabtang

The picturesque Savidug idjang, considered to be the most beautiful and perfectly shaped among the idjangs, appears to have been terraced by human hands to assume a castle-like formation. It is distinctly different from all the others in the province because its sides were carved to make entry more difficult.

Here, archaeologists have recovered, from different levels of the site, various earthenware shards, remains of wild boar and deer teeth, glass beads, shell, coral and bone fragments and some 12th century Sung type greenware.

Savidug Idjang: Brgy. Savidug, 3904 Sabtang.

PAGASA Radar Station (Basco, Batanes)

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PAGASA Radar Station

After our tour of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel, we again boarded our van for short drive, uphill, to the PAGASA Radar Station, also known as Radar Tukon.  This radar station, located on a hilltop about 300 m. above sea level, is the northernmost weather station of PAGASA (Philippine Atmospheric Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration).

Check out “Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel”

Formerly a site of a lighthouse and an abandoned pre-war hilltop U.S. weather station, it monitors typhoons that enter and leave the country’s area of responsibility.  However, its huge satellite disk was ripped off by gale-force winds during September 13, 2016 super typhoon Ferdie (international name: Meranti) even before it was put to effective use.

 

From its top, we had a magnificent and breathtaking 360-degree view of Batan Island, the West Philippine Sea, the boulder-lined cliffs, Mt. Iraya, rolling hills and the magnificent pastoral beauty of labyrinth-like hedgerows (liveng) and fields on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other side.

Mt. Iraya

Hedgerows (liveng)

On a clear day, you can see Dinem Island in the distance and, behind it, the faint silhouette of Itbayat Island,

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Chapel)

Ukuy’s Place, in the foreground, and Fundacion Pacita, in the background

PAGASA Radar Station: Sitio Tukon, Brgy. Chanarian, 3900 Basco.

How to Get There: From Basco it’s a a 2.75-km. (1.5-hour) hike, a tough 30-minute bike ride or an easy tricycle jaunt up to the Radar Station.  It is also a short 5-min. walk to Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Chapel)

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Basco, Batanes)

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Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Chapel)

After checking in and having a breakfast of fried dibang (flying fish) with pako salad, fried egg and rice at Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel, we were all picked, at 12 noon, by our guide Harvey Gutierrez for our North Batan Tour on board a Toyota van of A.A.B. Travel and Tours.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel”

Harbour Cafe

A short 2.3 km. (5-min.) drive brought us to Harbour Café where we had lunch before starting our tour.  The café has a good view of Basco Port.

After lunch, we again boarded our van for another short, 2.9-km. (7-min.) drive to Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel.  Parking along the road, we climbed a short flight of steps to get to the chapel.

Grace and Jandy

Also known as Tukon (tukon means “mountain” in the Ivatan dialect) Chapel, this project of the late Henedina “Dina” R. Abad (former Batanes Congresswoman) and her husband Florencio “Butch” B. Abad (former Department of Education Secretary) was built to help Tukon’s residents, especially the older ones, avoid the long walk to Basco to attend church services.

Interior of the chapel

Adopting the design of a traditional Ivatan house (stacking and bonding boulders to make a wall), local craftsmen, masons and carpenters built the church and it is the only chapel embodying such design. Noted architects Jose Ramon “Joven” Ignacio and Cristina “Tina” V. Turralba (our UP College of Architecture professor) helped complete the design.

The altar

The beautiful chapel was officially opened on May 3, 2008, in time for the wedding of Rep. Abad’s daughter Julia, who is also the Presidential Chief of Staff, to Englishman Andrew Parker.

Wooden spiral stairway leading to choir loft

 

Stations of the Cross – The Crucifixion

The stained-glass windows and the hardwood pews are contributions from the Abads’ friends and family. The ceiling of the chapel was once covered with paintings, painted by scholars of the Pacita Abad Center for the Arts, of the patron saints standing in front of the churches of the six municipalities of Batanes.  The chapel was featured in the 2015 film You’re My Boss, starring Toni Gonzaga and Coco Martin.

Coco Martin and Toni Gonzaga at Tukon Chapel

Coco and Toni about to enter the chapel. The lianas at the pergola, destroyed by the 2016 typhoon, are currently being regrown.

Unfortunately, Mt. Carmel Chapel was one of the churches destroyed during the strong super typhoon Ferdie (international name: Meranti) that hit Batanes on September 13, 2016. The interior ceiling collapsed, including the image of St. Joseph the Worker, their patron saint.

Coco and Toni inside the chapel. The painting behind the crucifix is no longer there.

Sitting humbly atop a foothill, Tukon Chapel, a perfect wedding venue, has stunning and gorgeous views of Mt. Iraya, and the waves of both the West Philippine Sea, on the left, and the roaring Pacific Ocean, on the right.  It was featured in the 2015 movie You’re My Boss (starring Toni Gonzaga and Coco Martin).

Our tour group

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel: Sitio Tukon, Brgy. Chanarian, 3900 Basco.  Sunday masses are held for the community at 4 PM.

How to Get There: The easiest way to get to the chapel is via tour provider or a tricycle. From the Basco Municipal Hall, take the National Road till you reach the chapel on top of the hill.

Balangay Boat Building Site (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

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The author (left) at the Balangay Boat Building Site

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After our short ocular visit to Magsaysay Bridge, we next drove to the 10.6-acre Balangay Boat Building Area Tree Park, along the Agusan River, where the quincentennial balanghais, Raya Siyagu (with 10 gross tonnage), named after the ruler of Butuan-Caraga, and Raya Kolambu (with 8 gross tonnage), named after the former’s sibling, who was the ruler of Mazaua, are drydocked.  The former was in urgent need for repair while latter still looked seaworthy.

The story of the balanghai (also called balangay) replicas begins in 2009 when the Kaya ng Pinoy Inc., the team (headed by Arturo “Art” Valdez, former undersecretary of the DENR and DTI) that conquered Mount Everest in 2006, announced plans to reconstruct a balanghai boat, with the help of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya) and other tribal members, from Sibutu and Sitangkai Islands of Tawi-Tawi, who retained the lashed-lug boat-building techniques which were mostly lost in other islands.

Raya Kolambu (formerly the Lahi ng Maharlika)

Three balanghais, namely the Diwata ng Lahi, Masawa Hong Butuan, and the 75 ft. long, 15 ft. wide and 9 ft. high Sama Tawi-Tawi (launched 16, 2010)  were constructed, with old doongan (Heriteriera littoralis) and other Philippine hardwoods (all donated by former Sulu governor Abdusakur Mahail Tan), by the team of Arturo Valdez at Manila Bay, at a 1,000 sq. m. site at Liwasang Ullalim at the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex. The special wood for construction came from the established traditional source in southern Philippines, specifically Tawi-Tawi. The team have pinpointed Sama-Bajau master boat builders, whose predecessors actually built such boats, and used traditional tools during the construction.

A replica balanghai at sea

The boats will try to retrace the 1417 voyage of Sultan Paduka Batara (with 340 followers) of Sulu, from the Philippines to Fujian province in China (to pay tribute to the third Ming Dynasty Chinese emperor Zhu Di (or Yongle).  In September 1417, he arrived in Quanzhou but died there, from natural causes, and is buried in in Dezhou, Shandong, 320 kms. south of Beijing.  Kamulin, the sultan’s wife, and two sons (Andulu and Wenhalla) remained in China to tend to his tomb.  The emperor granted them lands and resources.  About 3,000 to 6,000 of their descendants still live there.

On September 1, 2009, all three journeyed, from Manila Bay, to the southern tip of Sulu,  tracing the routes of Filipino ancestors during the waves of Austronesian settlement through Maritime Southeast Asia and the Pacific.  On May 1, 2010, after an 8-month cruise, they arrived in Zamboanga City, after 70 multiport stopovers, covering 2,500 kms. The balanghais were navigated via the old method used by the ancient mariners – steering by the Sun, the stars, the wind, cloud formations, wave patterns and bird migrations.  Covering a distance of 3,908 kms. (2,108 nautical mi.), along the way, they stopped off at numerous Philippine cities to promote the project.

The second leg of the voyage, from 2010 to 2011, saw them navigate around South East Asia – Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Cambodia, Thailand and up to the territorial waters of Vietnam, before heading back to the Philippines.

The bow of the Raya Kolambu

In April 2017, two more balanghai replicas, namely the Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu were assembled, without any blueprints, in Maimbung, Sulu, by 7 members of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya), from Tawi-Tawi, led by master boat builder Nur Usman.  On May 10, 2017, both began sailing, from Sulu, in a mission to relive the 600 years of diplomatic connection between Sulu and ancient China.  They navigated without the use of modern instruments, and only through the skills and traditional methods of the Filipino Sama people.

Raya Siyagu (formerly the Sultan sin Sulu)

On April 28, 2018, the 33-man Philippine Balangay Expedition (headed by Valdez), on board the Sama Tawi-Tawi (the lead boat skippered by John Manginsay), Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu, sailed from the Manila Yacht Club and finally reached China, arriving in Xiamen at 3 PM, May 2.  The first two boats had small engines, allowing it to move at 30 knots, while the third was propelled by sail only, with a maximum speed of 10 knots.  They returned to Manila on May 22, after a 25-day journey.

Damage to the Raya Siyagu

In 2019, the Lahi ng Maharlika (now renamed Raya Kolambu), manned by 10 personnel, and Sultan sin Sulu (now renamed Raya Siyagu), run by 8 personnel, set sail, from San Vicente, Palawan to Butuan, in a 6-day journey crossing the Sulu Sea, making stops in Palawan (Linapacan, Cuyo), Antique (Anini-y), Negros Occidental (Sipalay), Negros Oriental (Dumaguete City), Camiguin and, finally, to Butuan Bay.  From Butuan, the balanghais entered the Mactan-Cebu waters on the morning of December 14, arriving in Lapu-Lapu City to commemorate the quincentennial (500th) anniversary of the Battle of Mactan on April 27, 2021.

A small-scale model of a balanghai

Today, the 15 m. long Diwata ng Lahi is on permanent public display at the back of the National Museum of Fine Arts while the Masawa Hong Butuan is on a special pavilion in Butuan City.

Balangay Boat Building Site: Butuan Global Forum, Inc., Luna Compound, 861 R. Calo St., Brgy. Bading, Butuan City, Agusan del Norte. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City. From the city center, take a habal-habal (motorcycle) ride to the site. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.