Taking Chances in Marinduque

Holy Week was again around the corner, and I was again browsing my bucket list of must-see places to visit.  Tired of mainland Luzon, I opted for some island-hopping and decided on Marinduque Island to witnessed its trademark Moriones Festival which happens only during Holy Week.  For company, I brought along my kids Jandy and Cheska, plus Jandy’s Jesu-Mariae School teachers (and my friends) Mr. Jowel Fatlaunag and Ms. Veneriza “Vener” Trillo with her son Yor.  For the short-haul drive to Lucena City (Quezon), the gateway to the island, I used my 2003 Toyota Revo.  Though not enough to accommodate all six of us, I still brought along my 2-pax tent and camping equipment (portable stove, sleeping bags, etc.).  Vener also brought along a similar tent.

Balanacan Pier in Mompog

I met up with Jowel, Vener and Yor at Jesu-Mariae School and we all left Manila by 4:30 PM, Wednesday.  The trip took longer than the usual 3 hours, with traffic delays, toilet breaks and a stopover at a gas station for dinner (packed by Vener).  We arrived at Lucena City’s Dalahican Port by 9 PM. I was thinking of staying overnight at the city and leave for Marinduque in the morning but the sight of a long queue for ferry tickets made me change my mind, so we decided to take a chance by taking the 10 PM Blue Waters fast ferry to Balanacan Port (Mompog).  After securely parking the Revo at the pier, we all boarded our ferry.  It being a holiday, the ferry was packed with travelers, from the deck all the way to the pilot’s cabin where we stayed,  sitting on monobloc chairs.  Being overloaded, the crossing took much longer.  Coupled with this, the sea during that time was rough and waves made the boat sway left and right, at one time making me fall off my chair and almost out the cabin door and into the sea.  I was lucky enough to hang on for dear life.  After this rough, wave-tossed crossing, we all made it to Balanacan Pier by 12:30 AM. 

 

A Sabtang Welcome (Batanes)

The third day of my 5-day stay in Batanes was reserved for a visit to the 40.67 sq. km., beautiful, mountainous and extremely rugged Sabtang Island.  According to a coffee table book published by the DOT in 1994, Sabtang Island was chosen as one of the 12 best destinations in the country.  I wondered why.  Having left Mama Lily’s Inn very early in the morning, I was able to hitch a ride, via Batanes Gov. Vicente Gato’s van, to Radiwan Port in Ivana, the gateway to the island.   I was to travel with distinguished company.  Joining me in the falowa (a round-bottomed boat) for the nearly 1-hr., 5-km. and fairly rough crossing across the Ivana Channel was Gov. Gato himself and Congresswoman Henedina Razon-Abad (wife or former Education Secretary and Congressman Florencio “Butch” Abad), both inaugurating a school library on the island, plus guests Ms. Carol Pobre and Ms. Bing Talla, both of DOT Region II, and Ms. Margarita Garcia, a Fil-American Fullbright scholar teaching art to Ivatan schoolchildren (I later found out she was living at the lighthouse at Naidi Hills in Basco).

The scenic, winding road to Chavayan

Sabtang’s beautiful shoreline is similar to Batan Island, having intermittent white sand beaches, deep canyons, sand dunes that rise up to a hundred feet and steep, 200 to 350-m. high mountains that run down the island’s spine, making the island slope outward to the coast.  Small level areas are sporadically found along the northeast coastline and mountains have to be terraced to accommodate communities.   The only town, the picturesque Sabtang (also called Centro or San Vicente), is located on the island’s eastern seaboard.  The waters around the islands are said to have one of the richest fishing grounds in all of Batanes.

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer

It seems one half of the island’s 1,678 Isabtang population came out to greet our party upon our arrival.  I, however, mistook the town’s parish priest for the mayor but soon corrected myself and paid my respects to the boyish-looking Mayor Juan “Johnny Caballero, smartly attired in a Hawaiian-style polo shirt. The blessing soon got underway.  

Naidi Hills (Basco, Batanes)

Come late afternoon, I decided to hike up the nearby Naidi Hills, northwest of Basco proper.  Here, I had a unique view of Baluarte Bay, Basco, mist-shrouded, 1,009-m. high  Mt. Iraya (Batanes’ highest mountain), the sunset and the rolling hills.  The hills used to be the site of the Philippine’s tallest wireless communications facility, bombed by the Japanese planes on December 8, 1941.  Only the base remains.  Also on the hill are the damaged buildings and bunkers that used to house the communications facilities. 

The bucolic Naidi Hills

The hill is now home to the new 6-storey, 66-ft. high conical Basco Lighthouse (also called Naidi Lighthouse), one of 3 lighthouses proposed by former Congressman Florencio “Butch” Abad.  Built in 2003, it is located a few meters away from Radyo ng Bayan station  and standing on the same site of Basco’s first lighthouse.  It has a view deck on the fifth floor.  Beside it is an Ivatan stone house constructed of native materials and essentially of vernacular architecture.  The hill is also home to grazing cattle.  On one occasion, one bull gently prodded me to vacate the grass I was sitting on. 

One of Naidi Hills resident cattle

Naidi Hills: Sitio Diajang, Brgy. San Antonio, Basco, Batanes.

Agnaga Falls and Cold Spring (Malay, Aklan)

During one of our family visits to Malay (Aklan), I decided, for a change, to veer outside our normal routine of visiting Boracay Island by visiting one of the town’s little-known tourist attractions – Agnaga Falls.  Though listed as one of Malay’s 7 natural wonders (Boracay is No. 1 of course), not many people, aside from the locals, know about or visit the place.

L-R: Cheska, John Paul, Ningning and Jandy

Joining me were my kids Jandy and Cheska plus their third cousin John Paul and John Paul’s mom, Ningning.  After lunch, we all boarded the Mitsubishi L-200 pickup and were driven my Naciang, Ningning’s husband and my wife Grace’s second cousin, along the road to Buruanga up to the jump-off point.  This was as far as the pickup could go.  Naciang stayed behind with the pickup to await our return.

Agnaga Falls

From here, it was to be all footwork through a dirt trail within a light forest. After about 20 mins. of leisure hiking, the sound of the fall’s flowing waters told us we have finally reached our destination.  The falls wasn’t high, just about twice my height, but the cool turquoise waters at its small, shallow pool were inviting. Besides, we were the only visitors around and we had the falls all to ourselves.   Simply heaven.

Agnaga Falls: Brgy. Kabulihan, Malay, Aklan.

Ocean Adventure Marine Park (Subic Freeport Zone, Zambales)

After dropping off our luggage and freshening up at the Subic International Hotel, Jandy and I then returned to our Toyota Revo and hied off to Ocean Adventure Park, nestled at Camayan Wharf in the West Ilanin Forest area inside the Subic Bay Freeport Zone.  Once in, we first had to satisfy our growling stomachs, doing just that with much-needed lunch at the park’s 240-sq. m., 70-pax Ilanin Bay Cafe.

Bottlenose dolphins

The world-class Ocean Adventure, managed by the Subic Bay Marine Exploratorium Inc. (SBME), is the first and most astounding nautical sanctuary in the country and the first and only open-water marine park facility in Southeast Asia.  Opened on September 15, 2001, this 20,000-sq. m. (12,000 sq. m. on land and 8,000 sq. m. on water) park showcases some of the world’s most amazing sea mammals and is home to 8 South American sea lions (Otaria byronia), 6 false killer whales (Pseudorca Crassidens), 4 bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus gili) from Japan, and porpoises, all moving about in their inherent, natural habitat (not man-made as in similar parks abroad), fenced off only on one side of the shore.

Park trainers

The park aims to provide guests with what they call “edutainment” (educational entertainment), educating the people on marine life and the rich resources people should learn to value and conserve.  It thus gives the Filipinos an opportunity to truly appreciate the value of marine mammals as partners of humanity in the enormous task of saving our oceans.  The park is currently managed by a team of highly trained professionals, all formerly involved with internationally recognized theme parks such as the Hong Kong’s Ocean Park, Walt Disney World and Florida’s Animal Kingdom. In its effort to protect, preserve and develop wildlife and the forestland, Ocean Adventure also corroborates with the Wildlife in Needs (WIN) Foundation and the Subic Bay Metropolitan Authority (SBMA) Ecology Center, putting up a rescue center within the compound for sick, injured and confiscated wildlife in the Subic Bay area.  About 50 injured animals are presently under the care of experts and veterinarians in the facility.  The WIN Rescue Center is open for public viewing.  Here, visitors can get a peak on how the animals are being cared for and treated.

The Sea Lion Show

The Animal Care Clinic, a behind-the-scene look at how the animals are cared for, offers visitors a chance to view the actual lab work evaluating individual health parameters of the mammals.  The Animal Nutrition Center, on the other hand, is a behind-the-scene look at the kitchen support extended to the animals. Visitors can see how animal food and dietary programs are prepared.   The Sea Lion Show, at the 350-seat Nautilus Theater, starred the adorable and amusing showgirls Brandy, Simba and Thalia.  They amused us, as well as the audience, with their funny antics.

Ocean Discovery Aquarium

Next on my itinerary was the Whale Show at the 700-seat El Capitan Stadium. In between shows, we visited the 280-sq. m. Ocean Discovery Aquarium.  Its arrangement of fresh water and seawater (marine) habitats hosts different species of corals and fishes of the Philippine marine ecosystem, recreating Subic’s marine life at different levels.  The Ocean Discovery Aquarium aims to inspire understanding and help promote conservation of the natural environment by providing the public an entertaining and educational facility that serves as base for protective and educational activities, extending into the surrounding forest watershed and bay area. The 50-pax Learning Center, a classroom and library, offers educational materials and information on marine mammals and marine conservation.  We also visited the 180-sq. m. Ocean Treasures, the gift shop located by the Entry/Exit gate.

The Whale Show

The Whale Show, the main attraction, featured the three awesome false killer whales Cook, Founder and Tonka plus some dolphins. After the show, Jandy and I opted to have our pictures taken, petting a dolphin. For the more “adventurous,” the park also offers a “Whale Encounter Program” at the Encounter Cove where guests get to join in and swim with the whales in the water, pet and feed them and have souvenir photos taken with the gentle creatures.  It also offers a “Dive with the Whales Program” and dive courses.

Ocean Adventure: Camayan Wharf, West Ilanin Forest Area, Subic Bay Freeport Zone.  Tel: (047) 252-9000.  Fax: (047) 252-5883. Manila tel: (632) 706-3344 to 46.  Fax: (632) 706-0808.  E-mail: info@oceanadventure.com.ph. Website: www.oceanadventure.com.

Return to Guimaras

After breakfast at the Fine Rock Hotel, Charlie and I again boarded our Ford Explorer and drove to Muelle Loney (Iloilo River Wharf).  Here,  we loaded the car on the MV Felipe, another ancient RORO (Roll On Roll Off) ferry of F.F. Cruz Shipping Corp., bound for  Jordan, the provincial capital of Guimaras, where we plan to do GPS mapping.  This would be my second visit to this island province, having been there 10 years ago with my family.

RO-RO Port at Jordan

Our ship left Muelle Loney by 9:30 AM and the smooth crossing to the RO-RO port in Brgy. Hoskyn took just 30 mins..  Once docked, we drove off, with Charlie on the wheel, for Jordan town proper where we made a short stopover at the municipal hall and the town plaza, said to be the smallest in the country.

Jordan municipal hall
The town plaza, the country’s smallest

From thereon, we proceeded on our GPS mapping around the island.  At Nueva Valencia, we again made a short stopover at Raymen Beach Resort which was situated in a cove.  The narrow, beige sand beach was clean and the left side of the cove was a marine reserve with beautiful corals.

Raymen Beach

The resort itself, considered the most popular win the province, is about an hour’s drive away from Jordan Wharf.  It has a mix of airconditioned rooms with bath and TV and fan-cooled cottages with bath.  They also have a canteen, billiards and videoke. 

Raymen Beach Resort

Past Nueva Valencia, the road to Sibunag and San Lorenzo turned bad and I replaced Charlie at the wheel of the Ford Explorer for the second time in our 3-week GPS mapping expedition (the first time was from Kalibo to Iloilo City).  Once done with our mapping, we returned to Jordan port and left on the 5:30 PM ferry.  We were back in Fine Rock Hotel in time for dinner.
  
F.F. Cruz Shipping Corp.: Lapuz, Iloilo City, Iloilo.  Tel: (033) 337-1046, 336-9329 and 336-4195.  
F.F. Cruz Shipping Corp.: Jordan, Guimaras.  Tel: (033) 581-1701.
Raymen Beach Resort: Sitio Alubijod, Poblacion, Nueva Valencia, Guimaras.  Tel: (033) 396-0252.

Mindoro Trail: Pandan Island Resort (Mindoro Occidental)

Pandan Island’s sparklingly white sand beach

Day Two was to be a long haul drive from Mamburao to San Jose, a distance of little over 160 kms..  What would normally be a 2.5-hr. drive in excellent road conditions, took us double that.  We made a stopover at surprisingly progressive Sablayan (coined from the Visayan word meaning “where the waves meet’) town, the gateway to the remote and undeveloped Apo Reef Natural Park (a 2.5-hr. boat ride), the largest atoll-like reef in the country, the second largest in the world and one of the world’s best dive spots.  The park has a sunken lagoon system noted for its spectacular wall diving. 

Foot bridge at Sablayan

Once at the town proper, we decided to take a welcome breather and check out the Pandan Island Resort.  Located at the 38-sq. km. North Pandan Island (also called Pandan Grande Island), it is highly touted by noted German travel writer Jens Peters as one of his favorite islands.   We parked our vehicle along a road beside the Bagong Sabang River, and hired a banca (PhP300 roundtrip) to bring us to the island. 

Bagong Sabang River

Once out into Pandan Bay and past South Pandan Island (also called Pandan Piqueño), the island’s palm-fringed, sparklingly white sand beach soon hove into view.  The boat trip took just 15 mins. and soon we were walking barefoot on its Boracay-like sand.     The resort, established sometime in 1993, is managed by French adventurer Dominique Carlut and his Ilongga wife Marina.  The island is much like Boracay during its early years when it was without electricity.  It has 16 cottages (5 budget, 10 standard and 1 family), all with their own toilet and bath.  There are no televisions.

One of the resort’s cottages

The cottages, as well as the restaurant, are all built using native nipa, bamboo and sawali, simple yet comfortable and truly in harmony with the island’s natural features.  But unlike Boracay during the early years, the resort doesn’t rely on eco-unfriendly electric generators using, instead, cleaner solar energy (12 volts)  to supply the lighting needs of its cottages.   To charge lights, cameras, laptops etc., 220 volts (as well as an internet connection) is only available at its well-equipped dive shop (Mariposa Divers Pandan, established in 1992). 

The resort clubhouse

For lunch, we feasted, buffet-style, on Filipino and French cuisine with its variety of fresh fish, poultry or meat with vegetables, fruits and coffee. The bar has a selection of fine, white and red French wines which you can sip while watching the sun sink into the South China Sea. In 1994, the island was declared as a marine park and thanks to this strict no fishing and “hands off” policy, the variety and density of the marine life has grown by leaps and bounds. The dive sites around the island range from shallow, tropical fish-rich coral gardens, easily reached from the beach, to deep drop-offs on the island’s north, ideal for experienced divers, and reached by dive boats in about 15 mins..  Dive safaris are available to Apo Reef  Natural Park (a 1.5 to 2-hr. boat ride),and the World War II Japanese wrecks at Busuanga (Palawan). 

Caminawit Port

After snorkeling its coral and tropical fish-rich waters, we left the island and returned to the reality of another bumpy, 80-km. drive to equally progressive San Jose, another starting point for diving excursions to Apo Reef.  Offshore are Ambulong Island, Ilin Island and White Island.  The town has an airport and a port (Caminawit Port).  Upon arrival, we checked in at airconditioned rooms with bath at the Mindoro Plaza Hotel, again the town’s best.  No videoke this time as we had a big next day ahead of us. 

Governor’s Island (Hundred Islands, Alaminos City, Pangasinan)

From Martha Island, our boatmen brought us over to Governor’s Island for a brief stopover, One of 3 developed islands in this mini-archipelago (the others are Quezon Island and Children’s Island), it has a governor’s guesthouse with 2 bedrooms for 6-8 people, living room, dining room, toilet and bath, kitchen (with dining and cooking utensils provided for), ceiling fans and generator lighting.  It also has 2-pax nipa huts and camping is also allowed here.  
 
The viewpoint of Governor’s Island
There are white sand beaches on both sides of the island.  From the beach, we a short hike up some carved steps that lead to the island highest point.  At this viewpoint, we had an  unobstructed panoramic view of the many granite and scrub-covered islands that compose this national park.  After some photo ops, we made our way back down the hill.  Back at our boat, we were finally brought back to Lucap Wharf.  After paying our boatmen, we had our first freshwater shower at the complex, loaded our gear at our car, had lunch and proceeded on our way to Bolinao.

Martha Island (Hundred Islands, Alaminos City, Pangasinan)

The sun was already low in the sky when we packed our tent and belongings and again boarded our boat to take us to nearby Martha Island.  We thought we had the island to ourselves as the white sand beach, connecting the two islands, was deserted.  Once on dry land, our boatmen left us, promising to return the next morning to pick us up.  We were soon setting up our tent and was  just about done doing this when boats, one after the other, began unloading local tourists, with the same mindset as ours, on our tiny strip of beach.  I guess there’s simply no escaping the maddening crowd.  

Martha Island

It was too dark to go swimming, so we just settled down in our tents, ate our packed dinner and spent the rest of the night playing cards.  Jandy and the others slept inside the tent while I slept outside, on my rubber mat.  I thought I came fully prepared for camping but I forgot one essential item – Off Lotion. There were no mosquitoes around.  Instead, what bothered me during my sleep were nasty sandflies (locally called niknik).  The ground I was sleeping on was also lumpy.  Sleep didn’t come easy to me that night, if at all.   

Relaxing under the shade
The island’s beach

Come morning, we prepared our breakfast of coffee and sandwiches.  Luckily for us, the rocky outcrop beside our tent shaded us from the morning sun.   Right after breakfast, we donned our swimming attire to go swimming.  The waters by the shoreline wasn’t as clear or as inviting nor its slope as gradual as the beach in Romulo Island.  Poor visibility meant no snorkeling.   Still we made do with what was before us.  Our boatmen arrived earlier than expected, so we packed up our tent and belongings and boarded our boat.  

Romulo Island (Hundred Islands, Alaminos City, Pangasinan)

Come morning, we checked out at Texas Inn and proceeded to Brgy. Lucap, the gateway to the Hundred Islands National Park.  The port was already packed with local and foreign tourists, it being the Holy Week break.  Our plan was to go island hopping and then stay overnight at one of the islands.  Just a few days earlier, on March 19, the management of the Hundred Islands  was turned over by the Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA) to the Alaminos City government. 

Hundred islands National Park

Before, anything else, we had lunch at the port and then decided on what to bring (camping equipment, swimming attire, sleeping bags, packed food, etc.), leaving the rest of our stuff inside our parked car.We then negotiated with some boatmen for a motorized boat to take us island hopping and settled on the price of PhP1,200.  Lastly, we had to choose from 127 islands and islets that make up this 1,844-hectare national park.  As we prefer beaches, choosing was easy as most of the islands are granite and scrub-covered and heavily-undercut at the base.  Only a number have sandy beaches.

On our way

The plan was to go first to Romulo Island, where we can go swimming, then  transfer to Martha Island where we were to stay overnight.  We left the port on our chartered motorized boat a little past 2 PM and soon made landfall at Romulo Island by 3 PM.  The island was packed with tourists sheltering on what little shade they can get on the island, mostly low shrubs and the undercut bases of the island.   We came prepared for this eventuality, setting up my tent on the white sand.  Our tent provided privacy as we changed into our swimming attire.  

Romulo Island.  Ours is the only tent on the beach
Vi beside our tent
A suited up Lulu ready for a swim

The island’s clear water was simply pristine and slope gradual.   Just across, Braganza Island seemed so near but experience told me that the short distance can be deceiving.  Besides, the current between the islands is notoriously strong.  Instead, we just lazed the afternoon away by swimming or snorkeling. Too bad, it wasn’t low tide yet.  A cave on the other side of the island is exposed and approachable during this time.