Panglao Island (Bohol)

Alona Beach

We all left Cebu City very early in the morning of May 24 via an Oceanjet fast ferry for Tagbilaran City, Bohol’s capital and route center.  Upon arrival at the city’s wharf, we motored, via taxi, to Panglao Island which is connected to the mainland via 2 bridges. The older Taytay Bridge, near the City Hall, goes to Panglao (18.1 kms. away) while the Gov. Jacinto Borja Bridge, located 2 kms. southeast, connects the city’s Bool District with Dauis (3.1 kms. away).  The flat 98.4 sq. km., coralline limestone Panglao Island is located south of the city.    

Lost Horizon Beach Resort

We booked ourselves at an airconditioned room with bath and cable TV at Lost Horizon Beach Resort along Alona Beach.  The resort also has fan-cooled rooms with bath or common bath, a restaurant, swimming pool and a bar.   Alona Beach is one of Panglao Island’s 4 beaches, all of them white sand.  The  other beaches are the 1.2-km. long, pretty shallow Doljo Beach (located between rocky promontories); Dumaluan Beach along the east coast; and Momo Beach on a quiet cove on the west side. 

At Trudie’s Place

The sand off these beaches, although not as fine as that in Boracay, is just as white.  A fact, known only by a few people, is that many white sand beaches on Mactan Island in neighboring Cebu are covered by sand imported from Bohol, including Panglao.  Alona Beach, on the southeast side, is the most beautiful, most popular and, tourist-wise, the most developed beach of the four on the island. This beach, located in Brgy. Tawala, is said to have been named after Alona Alegre, the bomba star of the 1970s whom people say romped naked here during a film shoot.  It has a number of small, individually-designed beach resorts, restaurants, beach bars and dive shops, all spread along the beach for about 1.5 kms..  This attractive, white sand beach is good for snorkeling.  It is, however, clogged with seaweed growing in knee-deep waters, especially between December and March.    

Lost Horizon Beach Resort: Brgy. Tawala, Alona Beach, Panglao, Bohol.  Tel: (038) 502-9099 & 502-9088.  Cebu City booking office: fax: (032) 232-4893. Website: www.losthorizonresort-bohol.com.

Anilao: Arthur’s Place Dive Resort (Mabini, Batangas)

A chilling, foggy morning greeted me when I woke up.  It was already sunrise but the sun was obscured by the clouds.  We soon had breakfast prepared, packed our gear and waited for our “porter” and guide to arrive.  In the meantime we posed, as mountain conquerors would do, behind our cameras.  Our guides soon arrived and similarly unburdened, we easily proceeded down the mountain and back to our starting point.  After refreshing drinks at the store, it was back to our car for the now downhill, but nevertheless still treacherous, drive down the zigzag road.   The guys hiked down to their car further down the road.

Arthur’s Place

We decided to all meet at Arthur’s Place to savor what Anilao has to offer underwater.  The beach here was a relatively shallow.  Offshore is a dive site aptly named Arthur’s Place, gradually sloping from five to 21 meters with plenty of reef fish, small coral heads, soft corals, feather stars, hydroids, anemones and sponges.  The resort, opened in 1984 (with two rooms) by the late Arthur Abrigonda was, together with Aqua Tropical Sports (opened in 1967) and Aquaventure Reef Club, the first to open resorts in the area.  It now has 12 rooms with bath (two of them airconditioned), a restaurant, dive shop, picnic tables, shower rooms and offers two boats for diving trips.

None of us went diving (although Cecil was a trained diver) but we indulged in the next best thing by going snorkeling.  Even near the shore, the fish and coral life along the reef was quite good.  I’ve tried diving once (in Club Paradise in Palawan) a long time ago.  Anilao is sure worth the second try with its coral slopes or steps of small drop-offs, shallow coral gardens among sandy patches, profuse small fish life and numerous crinoids and nudibranches.  Some marine sanctuaries have been set up.  Diving is good all year round but the best season is from November to May.

Arthur’s Place Dive Resort: Anilao, Mabini, Batangas. Mobile numbers (Ms. Estelita M. Abrigonda): (0919) 716-7973 and (0919) 312-3938.  E-mail: arthursplace_ph@yahoo.com.  Website: www.arthurs-place.com.

The Balsas of Matabungkay (Lian, Batangas)

Matabungkay Beach Resort & Hotel

I was invited to join a media familiarization tour of Matabungkay Beach Resort & Hotel in Lian, Batangas on March 23-24, the weekend preceding Holy Week.  Our assembly area was the Department of Tourism (DOT) Bldg. near Rizal Park.  I left my car at my wife’s office at Gil Puyat Ave, took a fully-packed LRT train, overshot my designated stop which was U.N. Ave. and dropped off instead at Central Station where I decided to just walk, for the exercise, back to the DOT.   I arrived at the DOT cafeteria, huffing and puffing and drenched as a newborn kitten, just in time for breakfast.

Check out “Resort Review: Matabungkay Beach Resort & Hotel

Joining me at the breakfast table were some of the Who’s Who in travel journalism: Mr. Randy V. Urlanda of Panorama, Mr. Frank A. Evaristo of Manila Bulletin, TODAY veteran photographer Mr. Manny Goloyugo, Ms. Arlene Dabu-Foz of Manila Bulletin, Mr. Romark Mayuga of Manila Times, Ms. Claudeth E. Molon of TODAY, Ms. Lala Rimando of Newsbreak Magazine, Ms. Ruby Gonzalez of Travel Weekly East, Ms. Maggie De Pano of Business World Online, Mr. Michael David C. Tan of What’s On & Expat and Mr. Melvin S. Magtaus and Mr. Dennis Lapan of Lifestyle Asia.

Also present, as host, were Ms. Leona  DG. Nepomuceno and Ms. Camille Cua of the DOT.  Also joining us were Ms. Blessie Zarzuela of Adea Marketing, the TV crews from ABS-CBN (3) and RPN 9 (3) and 2 other DOT personnel.

We left the DOT at exactly 8:30 AM for the 3-hr. airconditioned coaster trip to Matabungay.  I sat at the lone bucket seat up front with its wide legroom suitable for my 5’-10” frame.   I had to buckle up though.  The long 105-km. trip via the Sta. Rosa Expressway was pleasantly uneventful until we reached the junction leading to Lian.  Here the coaster was bodily stopped by resident “commissioners” out to make a killing this early.   This scene was repeated  5 more times as we approached the town and our hotel, the last one a roadblock set up by the barangay soliciting donations for their fiesta.  What a damper!

Media participants by the Nestea swimming pool
A fleet of balsas

After arrival and check in at the resort, we had lunch and, after a short rest, we were all invited by Marissa to take a ride on one of the resort’s floating bamboo rafts (locally called balsa) where a merienda of pancit bihon and canned soft drinks awaited us.   Ideal in Matabungkay’s very shallow beach, the shore is lined with lots of these balsas.   They are navigated by long bamboo poles sometimes up to the edge of the drop-off and, once a suitable spot is chosen, anchored in place.  All rafts have shaded picnic tables and grills.  From the balsa, visitors could go swimming, snorkeling and, at the day’s end, sunset watching.

Even after the sun has set, a number of these lighted balsas are used to await fishermen and their much-awaited bountiful catch.   These balsas, in effect, have become a very important contributor to Lian’s tourism and livelihood economy.   As a tribute to this hardy and durable symbol of Matabungkay, Lian has decided to hold its first Balsa Festival this coming May 17-18.

The 2-day festival, proudly hosted by Matabungkay Beach Hotel & Resort, promises to be activity-packed.  Highlights are a Balsa Race and the Parade of Decorated Balsas.  Different sectors of Lian and the nearby towns will be invited to participate, 80 for the Balsa Race and 60-70 for the Parade of Decorated Balsas.  Students from the town’s different secondary and tertiary schools will also showcase their talents in dance and other production numbers.   The festival will be capped, on the evening of May 18, by band performances and a beach party.

Preparing for my trial dive

After the raft excursion, Marissa invited us to try our hand at scuba diving at the resort’s swimming pool.  I, plus  Blessie and Lala, took a crack at it.  The others begged off.   Mr. Jim Waite, the in-house dive instructor, gave us a brief overview on the  basics of diving and its equipment.  The much-awaited actual lesson followed and we were soon fitted with masks, snorkel, buoyancy compensator, tanks, weight belts and fins.   This being my second dive (my first was a trial dive in Club Paradise in Palawan), I was soon diving about at the pool’s floor like a fish within its element.

After a much-needed shower, a torchlit dinner was served along the beach.  Additional lighting was provided by a bonfire.   We were also joined by TV crews of ABS CBN and RPN 9 TV.  Immediately after that, we were again invited to a round of nighttime entertainment at Gotcha Club.  The girls monopolized the videoke while us guys contented ourselves with rounds and rounds of billiards and table tennis.  Still others just watched the girls sing to their heart’s content until the wee hours of the morning.

Press conference by the beach

The next day, after a sumptuous buffet breakfast at Caballero Café, we buckled down to serious business with a mini-conference held at the beach area.   Invited to the conference were Ms. Charlie Leviste-Antonio (the resort’s Vice-President for Operations), Mr. Jim Waite, Ms. Balangue, Mr. Violeta and the town’s Chief of Police.  Here we voiced our concerns (the “commissioner” episode, environmental issues, Holy Week security, etc.) and asked questions concerning the resort’s history, facilities and plans, the upcoming Balsa Festival, scuba diving opportunities and Fortune Island (a sister resort).

Posing with our hosts

Immediately after the mini-conference some of us opted, it being Palm Sunday, for a mass (complete with the appropriate palms) held at the resort’s pavilion.  After a late lunch at Café Caballero, we packed up our stuff, had a photo session at the resort entrance and said goodbye to our gracious hosts, Ms. Leviste-Antonio, Ms. Balangue and Mr. Violeta.  We left the resort by 2:30 PM  and arrived in Manila by 6:30 PM, after a side trip to Calatagan and numerous stopovers at Tagaytay City for fruits, espasol, buko pie and mazapan sweets.

Matabungkay Beach Resort and Hotel: Brgy. Matabungkay, Lian, Batangas.  Manila office: Unit H, Garden Floor, LPL Towers, 112 Legaspi St., Legaspi Village, Makati City.  Tel: (632) 819-3080, (632) 752-5252 and (632) 751-6685.  Fax: (632) 817-1176.  E-mail: mrb@matabungkay.net or inquiry@matabungkay.net.  Website: www.matabungkay.net.

A Boat Tour Around Boracay Island

After lunch at Sea Lovers Restaurant along White Beach, Grace, my kids Jandy and Cheska and I opted to do something we haven’t done before in Boracay – going around the island by pumpboat.  Getting a tour was no problem, there are lots of operators going around White Beach offering this service.  All we had to do was haggle for a low price.  This settled, we boarded our boat along White Beach and were soon on our way.

Crocodile Island

Just off the southeast coast of Boracay, we passed by rocky Crocodile Island, so named because of its crocodile shape from a distance.  It has no beaches but is said to be a good snorkeling area and a popular venue for scuba diving.

The entrance of Crystal Cove

After 20 mins., our boat dropped anchor at the white sand beach in front of the welcome arch of Boracay Crystal Cove atTigwati-an Island.  This 2-hectare, privately-owned island, formerly called Laurel Island, is located just off Tabon Point, east of Boracay.

Resting along the island’s circumferential path

To explore the island and its caves, we paid an entrance fee (P75 per adult and P30 per child).The island had a circumferential cement path and, during our tour, we encountered statues of mythical characters. The island’s chief attraction are its 2 caves.

Posing among statues of mythical characters

One is located on a hill top.  There is also a small, 8-m. long cave at the tip of the island which is liberally covered with yellow and orange polyps.  The kids and I were excited to enter it but Grace opted to stay behind and just wait for our return.  The cave has a natural shallow pool on the side of the beach where we swam through.

One of the island’s caves

Back at our boat, we proceeded directly up north, near Yapak, to our last destination – the 800-m. long, blissfully deserted Puka Shell Beach (also called Yapak Beach). This beach, the island’s second longest, covers half of the northern tip of the island and ends abruptly at Lapuz-Lapuz Cliffs on the island’s extreme northern point. This most primitive and rugged part of Boracay has yellow, less fine sand and a stronger surf and a more abrupt change of depth than at White Beach.  We were careful when we swam there.

The blissfully deserted Puka Shell Beach
This beach was made famous by its heishi and shiny white (sometimes dotted with brown) Puka shells (actually part of the core of a shell), said to be the best in the world due to its luster and whiteness. Also found in Bali (Indonesia) and Hawaii, these shells were collected and stringed into fashion necklaces and bracelets and other jewelry in the 1970s and 80s.  Elizabeth Taylor once appeared in celebrity circles wearing such a necklace.  They are now very rare and the collecting, selling and buying of these shells are now prohibited by law.  However, women still collect, make and sell these jewelry pieces.  The beach also has a fine view of Romblon’s Carabao Island.
 
Boracay Crystal Cove: Tabon Point, Brgy. Caticlan, Malay, Aklan, 5608.  Tel/Fax: (036) 288-7482. Mobile number: (0918) 911-8134.  E-mail: info@crystalcoveisland.net. Website: crystalcoveisland.net and crystalcoveisland.com.

White Island (Mambajao, Camiguin)

Mt. Vulcan Daan

On our third day in Camiguin, April 10, Tuesday, we opted to do some island hopping and what better place to go than to White Island.  After lunch, we proceeded to Caves Beach & Dive Resort along Agoho Beach in Brgy. Agoho.  About 1,5 to 2 kms. offshore is the C-shaped, picture-perfect White Island, Camiguin’s pride. Also called Medano Island, it is a small, uninhabited and treeless sandbar with dazzling white, sugar-fine sand.The island’s shape differs depending on the tides and the constantly shifting currents. The island is also accessible from Brgy. Yumbing, at a boat station behind Paras Beach Resort.

Mt. Hibok-Hibok

We hired two pumpboats at PhP250 per boat to ferry our group and we reached the island after a 15-min. boat ride.  The island’s postcard-perfect view was marred by the sight of makeshift stalls and tents doing brisk business selling buko juice, soft drinks, beer and snacks to visitors at the southern end of the island.  It being the Holy Week, I could only sigh in disbelief at the sight.  However, they do provide temporary shelter and good shade from the hot afternoon sun.

Still, nothing can mar the backdrop of picturesque and majestic Mt. Hibok-Hibok and Mt. Vulcan Daan.  The ladies were off to their usual sunbathing while the guys went snorkeling and swimming 150-200 m. off the island.  Later, as the afternoon wore off into evening, we were rewarded by a beautiful sunset.  The island shrinks substantially during high tide, so visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon.  Not visiting the island would be like not visiting Camiguin at all.

Sunset at White Island

Katibawasan Falls (Mambajao, Camiguin)

After an early-morning breakfast at the resort’s restaurant, we left at 8:30 AM for our island tour.  The day before, we contracted our jeepney drivers, Rico and Charlie, to give us a tour around the island for PhP1,500. The 5 towns of Camiguin (Catarman, Guinsiliban, Mahinog, Mambajao and Sagay) are all connected by a 64-km. long, almost all concreted  circumferential coastal road which can be circumnavigated in a 3-hr. drive.  While Jandy and I stayed inside the jeepney, the others sat on the roof, always on the lookout for trees while enjoying the cool breeze.  

Frolicking at the base of the falls

Our first stop was the 76.2-m. (250-ft. ) high Katibawasan Falls. Located 5 kms. southeast of Mambajao, on the 1,420-m. high Mt. Mambajao, a dormant volcano, it is one of the highest waterfalls in the country.  After paying the PhP10 entrance fee, we descended a 67-step concrete stairway, passed a view deck, and beheld one of the most beautiful waterfalls I have so far seen in the country.  The slim waterfall cascades precipitously down  to a rock pool teeming with fresh water shrimps and is surrounded by a massive granite mountain wall swathed with ground orchids, wild ferns, trees and boulders.  Eden reincarnated!

Tall and slim Katibawasan Falls

We were soon down to our swimming attire but hesitated upon finding out that the waters were icy-cold.  What the heck!  Lest I change my mind, I quickly jumped in, shivering for some time until my body temperature adjusted to the coldness.   Jandy and the others soon followed suit.  The rock pool was shallow except at the area were the falls hit the water.  We stationed ourselves at the boulders underneath the falls, feeling the cascading waters massage our backs.  Nature’s hydromassage.  Near the falls is a resthouse for changing and a cottage for overnight stays.

Katibawasan Fall: Brgy. Soro-Soro, Mambajao, Camiguin.

Camiguin or Bust

The island province of Camiguin

I was still deciding on where to go with my son Jandy this Holy Week when my 2 companions from a previous climb up Mt. Makulot – Ms. Lourdes “Lulu” Siguenza, a Warner Bros. advertising executive, and free-lance artist Ms. Rosevie Sevilla – invited me to join them, with some other companions, on a week-long trip to the Northern Mindanao island province of Camiguin, an invitation I simply can’t refuse.  This would be my second trip to Mindanao, the first being in Zamboanga City way back in 1976.  I promptly secured plane tickets for me and Jandy.  

On board the ferry MV Royal Princess

We left Manila on April 8, Palm Sunday, on the 5:15 AM Cebu Pacific flight.  Joining us was Mr. Henry Chua, a Pizza Hut advertising executive and Lulu’s boyfriend.  Upon arrival at Cagayan de Oro City’s Lumbia Airport (Misamis Oriental), we waited an hour for our 8 other companions arriving on the incoming Philippine Airlines (PAL) flight.  On that flight were advertising executives Mr. Carl Allen and Begonia “Goni” Gonzalez of McCann Ericksson, Mr. Jake San Diego of Ace Saatchi, Ms. Tey Abonador of Harrison Communications, Ms. Rose Pantoja and Mr. Nubbin Beldia of Aviacom, Ms. Karen Rosel of Publicis-AMA and Mr. Randy Ypon, a balikbayan from Canada.  Carl and Randy brought along their own diving equipment minus the oxygen tanks which they intend to rent on the island.

Shuttling by jeepney

From the airport, we were picked up by a hired (for PhP2,000) Nissan Urvan to take our party on a 83-km. (1-hr.) trip to the Misamis Oriental ferry port town of Balingoan, the gateway to Camiguin.  Upon arrival, we all boarded the 11 AM ferry MV Royal Princess. Fare was PhP20 per pax  for the 45-min. crossing to Brgy. Benoni in Mahinog.   The boat was filled to the brim with passengers out on holiday, many crowding on the unshaded deck.  The trip was smooth all the way until we reached sight of Benoni. Or so we thought …. We heard a loud crash and were tossed about as the ship hit the pier head-on just when we were docking.  As if it were not enough, the crash was followed by a scraping sound as the ship sideswiped the dock ala Titanic.  What an exciting way to start a vacation!   

Picnic at Digyo Island, Cuatro Islas (Inopacan, Leyte)

On our last whole day stay in Leyte, Jandy and I were invited by Mr. Roy Perez, a medical representative of Astra Zeneca who toured us around Ormoc City, to join him and his family and relatives on a picnic tour of the Cuatro Islas.  We were picked up by Roy after breakfast and, in his car, we traveled the 107-km. distance to Baybay in about 2 hrs.. At the town’s port, we boarded, together with the others, a large outrigger boat rented for our use.
  
On our way to Digyo Island

As the name implies, the Cuatro Islas consists of 4 lovely islands; Apid, Digyo, Himokilan and Mahaba, all of which are bordered by white sand beaches, rich fishing ground and unexplored coral reefs (a total of 287 species).   Though Baybay was our jump-off point, three of the four islands (Apid, Digyo and Mahaba) belong to the town of Inopacan while Himokilan Island is under the jurisdiction of Hindang.

Digyo Island’s beautiful sandbar.  Across is Himokilan Island

Digyo (pronounced as Dijo) Island, our destination, is the smallest,  prettiest and most popular tourist destination of the four.  After 30 mins., our outrigger boat made landfall at the island’s beautiful sandbar of fine, white sand. Good coral growth, ideal for snorkeling, are located at the western part of the island, facing Apid Island. The island is also a nesting site of sea turtles.  While there, I circled the island in about 20 mins.

Digyo’s white sand beach
Big, delicious coconut-cracking crabs called tatus are found in Himokilan Island, the largest of the four islands. Mahaba Island, serviced by outrigger boats, has a viewing deck, kiosks, sari-saristores and restrooms.  Diving and snorkeling equipment, as well as barutos(stiletto-shaped dugout canoes) and glass-bottom boats, can be rented here.

Marabut Marine Park (Marabut, Western Samar)

The resort’s beach and catamaran

On April 20, Holy Thursday, I decided to visit to Marabut Marine Park and Beach Resort in Marabut with my brother-in-law Manny and my son Jandy.  Marabut is the last town before the border with Eastern Samar, off the southern coast of Samar.  However, Manny’s car was trapped in the garage due street diggings along the street.  Mr. Victor Macasera, my Astra medical representative guide to Sohoton Caves, came to our rescue by offering to bring us there.  After our usual early morning breakfast and loaded with our usual picnic basket prepared by Paula, manny’s wife, we departed Tacloban City around 9 AM, crossed the San Juanico Bridge to Samar, turned right at the fork to Basey and proceeded, down a well-maintained road, to Marabut town.

Burial cave

Soon, we espied the beautiful stack of small limestone islands of the marine park just off the horizon.  Near the resort, we made a stopover at a small cave along the highway.  Inside, we saw a cross, an image of the Blessed Virgin and a net-covered concrete vault containing the mixed up bones of victims killed by the Japanese during World War II.  About a kilometer past the cave, we came upon the road sign and an  700-800 m. long access road leading to the resort.  Past an old, wooden loggers’ lodge was the entrance to the resort.  We parked our car and rented a picnic shed for our use.

The islands of the marine park

This 1-hectare resort, opened in 1997, sits on a 90-hectare land planted with rice and coconut trees.  It also has a reforestation area planted with mahogany and gmelina trees. The resort is owned by the Unimaster Conglomeration, Inc. of Mr. Wilson Chan, the same corporation that owns the Leyte Park Hotel in Tacloban City.  It has 5 nipa, bamboo and wood duplex cottages with bath, an open-air restaurant and a bar.  Being a holiday, the resort was full of Filipino-Chinese guests brought over from Leyte Park Hotel via a huge double-hulled catamaran moored along the beige sand beach.  Beyond that were the 15 dramatic limestone islands that constitute the marine park, all leased from the local government for the exclusive use of the resort.  Although filled with guests, the beach was surprisingly empty of swimmers.

All geared up and ready to go

As we were going around the resort, we came across a group of tourists milling around a dazed man pockmarked with red sores from head to foot.  He was just bitten by a jellyfish while swimming along the beach and was being administered with antibiotics.  It was jellyfish season. No wonder the beach was empty.  So much for the swimming.   Still the limestone islands beckoned.  As we were preparing the table and ourselves for lunch, I espied a number of brave sea kayakers heading towards the islands.  I immediately made a reservation for a 2-pax, sit-on sea kayak.  If I can’t swim along the beach, I could at least kayak.  The resort has 8 plastic kayaks – 3 single and 5 double; plus one outboard motor boat.   Kayak rental is PhP75 per hour, inclusive of life vests but with no helmets.

However, I was placed on a waiting list.  There was nothing to do at the moment except eat, and eat we did.  With food enough for double our party, we feasted on tipay (scallops baked in garlic), kilawinpansit canton, grilled tilapia and steamed rice, all washed down with bottled water or canned soft drinks.  We were too full to even touch the ripe mangoes for dessert. Pretty soon, the previous kayakers returned and as soon as the kayaks were parked, I immediately laid my claim to a kayak. Jandy and I quickly applied sun block lotion, packed our snorkels and camera in a dry plastic bag, donned our shades, rubber slippers and life jackets and were soon on our kayak.

Sea kayaking wasn’t a breeze as I first thought it would be.  Jandy was seated up front and it took some time for us novices to coordinate our paddling and maneuvering efforts.  For a time we seemed to be going nowhere, but soon we got the hang of our double oars and were soon on our way in a leisurely, exploratory pace.  Still wary of going very far, I decided first to visit some of the mainland’s inaccessible and scenic hidden coves just around the beach.  Going there only seemed to bring the islands closer to me and, with a little guts and a prayer, were soon paddling full speed ahead.

The nearest was a magnificent 3-peak island with a white sand beach tucked in between them.  Shooting straight up from the sea like natural skyscrapers, the islands’ towering limestone cliffs’ base were heavily undercut by wave action and were topped by dense jungle.  This scenery reminded me of similar islands (although more compact and much nearer) seen as I toured the equally beautiful Dimakya Island (Club Paradise, Coron in Palawan) and Gigantes Islands of Iloilo.

Pretty soon, after about 20 mins. of paddling, its white sand beach hove into view as the surrounding waters became clearer.  We had to maneuver around to avoid some large rocks visible under the water and soon hit dry land.  We were the only visitors there and we both felt like Robinson Crusoe (or is it Swiss Family Robinson?).  We donned our snorkels and explored its clear waters and coral garden of staghorn and brain coral.  No jellyfish in sight. Thank God.  This condition was soon broken by the arrival of 3 other kayaks from the resort, all paddled by Filipino-Chinese guests of the resort.  We gladly lent our snorkels (and rubber slippers) to the group.

I had my eye on visiting the next island’s white sand beach, and seeing a golden opportunity, suggested a joint kayaking safari with our new friends to the island.   Our next destination was similar to the first except that its peaks were not as rounded.  We reached it after 15 mins., but we were not the first arrivals as a large outrigger pumpboat loaded with tourists was already there even before we left the first island.  Snorkeling here was quite a disappointment and the only floating creature I espied was a jellyfish!  We quickly made a dash for the shore.  Instead, I tried to go around the islands’ heavily undercut girt but soon gave it up upon reaching waist-deep water.

From the island we could espy the third island’s white sand beach (only 3 of the 15 islands have white sand beaches).  In the distant horizon was the all too familiar Tooth Island, a bizarre, hourglass-shaped limestone outcrop (no beach) featured in a colored postcard.  My spirit was willing but I was already tired.  I decided to abandon the idea and instead started paddling, together with the others, back towards the mainland.  Although tired, our strokes were more fluid, just like professional kayakers.  After about 30 mins. we were back at the resort, having been gone for 2 hrs., dead tired and with aching muscles.

Jandy and I turned over our kayaks and life vests to Manny and Victor and they were soon kayaking to the nearest island.  While they were away, I decided to interview Mr. Angel Quiminales, the resort manager.  Angel gave me an overview of the resort’s beginnings, facilities and future plans including a future saltwater swimming pool and additional cottages. My heart sank when Angel told me of a hidden lagoon located just 400 m. from, and to the right, of the mainland beach.  It sank even deeper when he told me that the second island I visited had a beautiful cave with beautiful stalactites just around the beach.  It was a frequent destination for foreigners.  If only I knew.  After this 45-min. interview, we decided to call it a day, thanked Angel and paid our bills (picnic shed and kayak use).  We left Marabut by 4 PM and were back in Tacloban by 5 PM.  The next day, being Good Friday, I decided to rest.

The Calbiga River (Western Samar)

After lunch, Jandy and I took a jeepney to the Tacloban Bus Terminal, near the port, to get a Catbalogan-bound bus to Calbiga in the hope that we could still do some spelunking at Calbiga Caves.  The 59-km. bus trip took all of 1 hr., crossing the San Juanico Bridge, and on to the Maharlika Highway, passing the towns of Basey, Sta. Rita, Villareal and Pinabacdao before reaching Calbiga. Travel time would have been shorter where it not for the deplorable road conditions, with potholes everywhere and, in some places, half of the road had all but disappeared, creating one-way portions.  In Brgy. Lagayan, an alternate route has to be cleared to replace an irreparable portion of the highway.  Upon arrival at the town, we were informed at the municipal hall  that it was too late in the day to visit the caves.  Instead, we just had to console ourselves with a boat trip to Calbiga River’s Carewos Rapids.

Carewos Rapids

The 18-km. long and 10-m. deep Calbiga River, with some 60 challenging rapids, is reputed to be the country’s only navigable wild river suitable for white water rafting.  Docking near the rapids, we tried swimming but this was actually difficult as we had to battle the rapids.  A rope was thrown across both banks  of the river as a lifeline in case we do get swept away.

According to the International Scale of River Difficulty, these rapids are classified as Class III or Class IV, depending on weather conditions.   The river has long rapids with high waves and a lot of irregular rocks.  The Calbiga River requires mandatory scouting, a good quality boat (a smaller boat is recommended because of the width of the river) and equipment, an expert boatman and powerful and precise maneuvering.

Carewos Rapids: Brgy. San Mauricio, Calbiga, Western Samar