Category Archives: Recreational Water Activities

Gigantes Island Hopping (Carles, Iloilo)

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Gigante Norte Island

After a hearty breakfast with the whole group at the coffee shop, a hectic schedule of island hopping awaited us.   We left Balbagon Island, together with other resort guests, by 10 AM. on board a large outrigger boat.  Along the way we passed many of the beautiful islands that the Gigantes are known for.  After about 30 mins., we reached our first destination: the southern side of Brgy. Gabi in Gigante Norte Island.  Our boat docked along a steep rocky wall.  As it was high tide, our climbed up the wall was shorter.  Upon reaching the top of the wall, we beheld before us  a hidden lagoon with clear, shallow waters  surrounded by steep and rugged limestone cliffs covered with sparse vegetation.

A hidden lagoon called Tangke

Calm, circular and lake-like lagoons (doubtless from the Spanish word laguna meaning “lake”) such as these are found in low latitude countries such as the Philippines.  They have openings to the sea, always leeward of prevailing winds, but are protected from it by a sandbar or coral reef.  Here, the clear shallow waters rise and fall with the tides.   According to one theory, lagoons are formed when hard coral growth in the center fails to keep pace with those on the periphery.  Waves and storms disintegrate coral in the center and pile them up at the margin, increasing the height of the island which in the course of time become covered by vegetation.

This salt water lagoon before us was locally called Tangke (“tank”).  The lagoon’s rugged limestone periphery, weathered to an incredibly rough surface, are of organic origin.  They are formed by the accumulation of the calcareous skeletons of marine animals and plants, mainly coral and coralline algae.  Its flora is sparse, mostly a few widely distributed strand plants and trees.   Living coral polyps continually extend the fringe. Such was the beauty of the place that we can’t wait to get into our swimming outfits and dip in its shallow, sparklingly clear waters.  Simply Heaven! Other members of the party opted to climb its lofty cliffs in an effort to be physically (and dangerously) nearer to their Creator.  The place is also a 15-min. boat ride east of Sitio Langub.

Little Boracay

After about 30 mins. of lolling around the lagoon, we again boarded our pumpboat for our next destination, a beach called “Little Boracay.”   We arrived at 11:10 AM.  The beach before us was truly a mini-version of the country’s number one destination, albeit shorter.  The other difference is its seclusion.   The beach is backed by a steep, densely-vegetated limestone cliff and because of this there are no resorts. The turquoise waters were just as clear and the white sand beach gradually sloping and fine as sugar, with hardly any shells or pebbles.     Jandy and Cheska were soon off swimming in the shallow waters as our portable monobloc chairs and tables and beach umbrellas were unloaded.  Lunch was served al fresco in food warmers by the beach and eaten kamayan style.  And what a lunch it was!  Tropical paradise at its best.

The sandbar of Cabugao Gamay Island

We would have wanted to stay longer in this beautiful, secluded beach but our itinerary dictated otherwise as we had to leave for our next destination.  After packing our stuff, it was off to another boat ride to an inhabited Cabugao Gamay Island which had a very long, treeless sandbar with beige sand.  We arrived by 1 PM and were greeted by a native selling to us a sea turtle secured by a rope tied around a notch at the rear of its shell.  What a sorry sight.  Poor fellow.  We refused his offer.

After the usual photo shoot for posterity, it was back to our boat for the return trip.  We were back at the resort by 2 PM.  Our island hopping tour was the highlight of our trip to Balbagon and the Gigantes Islands.  Too bad, all good things must come to pass.  The next day, we all left the island early in the morning for the boat trip back to Estancia and the long and tiring land trip to Iloilo City where we had lunch and took the last flight back to Manila, arriving there by 5 PM.

Balbagon Island: Coral Cay Resort (Carles, Iloilo)

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Coral Cay Resort in Balbagon Island

The Gigantes Islands, located off northeast Panay in Carles (Iloilo), first came into prominence long before Boracay became a byword  in the tourism industry.  In the 1970s and 80s, its luxurious Sicogon Island Club was one of the first beach resort hotels in the country to achieve international recognition. Its happy days ended when the resort closed down in 1989.  There is more to the Gigantes than just Sicogon as it still has 100 small, rugged, idyllic and fascinating islands, most with white sand beaches, plus hills covered with spectacular first and second growth virgin forests, hidden coves, and many massive wind-carved and steep rock formations containing many deep, cathedral-like granite and marble caves. It also has rich marine life and simple fishing villages inhabited by 300 families.   My wife Grace’s outfit for many years now, E. Ganzon Inc., owned and developed a resort called Coral Cay Resort on Balbagon Island.  We decided to give it a visit after Christmas Day.

Villa Lily Beach Resort in Estancia

I, together with Grace, 11 year old Jandy and 7 year old Cheska left on the early morning Philippine Airlines flight to Iloilo City.  Joining us were Atty. Jose Salazar, his wife and kids and Grace’s fellow E.G.I Properties employees Mr. Disney Sevilla, Ms. Marivic Santiago, Ms. Carol Reyes and Ms. Rhoda Evora.  At the airport, we were picked up by a company van that would take us on a 135.6-km.  (3.5-hr.) long-haul drive to Villa Lily Beach Resort in Estancia, jump-off point to more than 20 of the islands of the Gigantes including Balbagon Island.    

Arrival at Balbagon Island

Upon arrival at the hilltop resort, we waited 30 mins. for the arrival of company boat that would bring us, together with other guests, to the island. The 8 nautical mile long boat trip took about an hour, passing by the large Gigantes islands of Binulangan and Calagnaan as well as the smaller islands of Tabugon, Tulunan-an and Ojastras before reaching the relatively flat, fish-shaped island of Balbagon.  As there was no pier on Balbagon, we alighted a la MacArthur, getting our feet wet before reaching dry land.

The 42-hectare, 1.5-km. long Balbagon Island is located near Gigante Sur Island and is a 20-min. boat ride from the island’s Brgy. Lantangan. Upon our arrival here, we were billeted in one of Coral Cay Resort’s 10 airconditioned cottages. Each cottage, with its bamboo-cladded interior walls and exterior walls cladded with split coconut logs, has its own tiled bathroom and verandah.  This  Class “A” resort also has 25 fan-cooled cottages with bath and a coffee shop/restaurant.

A Balbagon sunset

On our first night on the island, a torch-lit dinner was served al fresco under the stars along its dazzling white sand beach lined with prickly aroma trees. Seafood, consisting of crabs, shrimps and fish, was the “standard” cuisine and was mostly eaten by many in the kamayan style.  The next two days at the resort were packed with stress-free fun: swimming, sunbathing, shell picking, eating, camaraderie, videoke, waiting for the beautiful sunset  or simply just relaxing by the beach and reading a good book.  No work, TV, telephones, pollution, noise and traffic jams. Our 12th wedding anniversary on the 28th (Ninos Inocentes) was spent quietly in much the same way.  Disney and I circumnavigated the island’s 3 km. long shoreline in about 30 mins., passing by a rocky shore where sea birds roost as well as the nearby barangay.  We also walked along the exposed reef at low tide. Along the way, we discovered a beached basket sponge which we brought back to the resort.

Windsurfing in Guimaras

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Learning the basics ….

Come morning, Frank, Jaja and I took our first lessons in windsurfing from the resort’s lady instructor.  It was a breezy morning but learning to windsurf wasn’t a breeze at all.  In winds stronger than about 8 knots and also depending on the size of sail used, the rig is actually pulled to windward over the sailor. The force of the wind pushed the rig upwards towards a vertical position, increasing the sail area presented to the wind which, in turn, increased the wind force on the sail. 

Trying my hand at windsurfing
At the same time, the sailor is being pulled to a more upright position to leeward. The whole setup is therefore inherently unstable. During my trial, I did not take any action to counter this and, as a consequence, was pulled over completely to leeward, ending up in the water.  Thus, trying to keep my balance, much less raise the sail, proved to be quite an ordeal.  Only Frank was successful, albeit for a few seconds.  Well better luck next time.

Igang Point Fisheries Research Station (Nueva Valencia, Guimaras)

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Island hopping tour
The morning of the next day, Good Friday, was spent on an island-hopping tour.  Some of the islands were the 2.5-hectare Isla Naburot (home to a eco-friendly resort owned by Alice and Ponciano “Pons” Saldana) and the 1,544 sq. m. Tiniguiban Islet (where rare red shrimps make their appearance inside a pool during high tide). Past the latter is the highlight of our tour – the Igang Point Fisheries Research Station in Nueva Valencia, a government-run aquatic fishery center.  
 
Situated on a coral reef cove, it embraces 4 islands interconnected by floating bridges.  This demonstration and training facility of the Southeast Asian Fisheries Development Center (SEAFDEC) promotes cage farming technology for marginal fishers.  It is home to brood stocks of milkfish (bangus),  giant grouper (lapu-lapu), sea bass, red snappers and other fishes in huge floating cages.   In this cages, fishes mature and spawn spontaneously during the normal breeding seasons.

AUTHOR’S NOTES

Today, milkfish cultured in marine cages provides livelihood to 4 Nueva Valencia barangays (Igang, Magamay, San antonio and Sto. Domingo) affected by the major oil spill in 2006. They were given operational capital for the construction of fish cages.  Income from the production runs was given to 5 organizations now operating cages on their own, with the assistance of SEAFDEC who taught villagers integrated culture and alternate day feeding to improve production.

A Unique Dining Experience

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Isla Walang Lang-aw

Upon our return to the resort, from Calauit Island, late in the afternoon, we, as well as all the other resort guests, were again sent off on another boat ride, this time to back to nearby Isla Walang Lang-aw.    This small island, with its limestone cliff (ideal for rock climbing) and white sand bar, was to be the scene of our final dinner.  Our food was brought along in food warmers.  No chairs were provided, but we didn’t mind as we sat on mats on the sand and dined by torchlight.  What a romantic setting!  The night was cool and windy, the sky was clear and the stars were out.

Posing with resort staff

Alas, all good things must come to an end.  The next day, after a very early breakfast, we, together with other guests, left the island via the 7:30 AM boat after being given a warm send-off by the gracious resort staff.  It saddened me as I saw the waving staff, as well as the island, grow smaller as we sped away.  We left on the 10 A.M. Pacific Air flight back to smog-laden, traffic-clogged, garbage-infested and overpopulated Manila.

Calauit Island Game Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary (Busuanga, Palawan)

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Calauit Island

After my trial dive,  we booked ourselves on an optional half-day tour of Calauit Island Game Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary, located just off Busuanga Island’s northwestern coast and opened to tourists since 1985.  Cost, including permit and boat ride,  was to set us back US$30 per person.  We left right after lunch at the resort.

An eland

This 3,700-hectare, DENR-administered Strict Nature Reserve was, in response to an appeal made by the International Union of Conservation of Nature (IUCN), was established as a repository for 108 African animals endangered by the 1977 drought and Kenya’s civil war on August 1976 by virtue of Presidential Proclamation No. 1578 issued by the late Pres. Ferdinand Marcos.  Its original 250 island families were relocated, 40 kms. away, to Halsey Island and compensated with land titles.  Since 1994, it was managed by the Office of Palawan Council for Sustainable Development, a  government body dealing with environmental issues in Palawan.

On our way to Calauit

We, together with other resort guests, left the resort by 1 PM on the resort’s motorized outrigger boat.  The trip took about 45 mins.  Upon arrival, we first logged in at the sanctuary’s office.  Then, accompanied by a guide, we ushered to the back of the sanctuary’s only “safari” vehicle, a converted 6 x 6 truck which resembled a huge open cage.  From our slow-moving and somewhat dilapidated truck, we got up close and personal with these herbivores as some fed near the road we were traveling while zebras grazed under shading trees.  Bushbucks (Tragelaphus sylvaticus), Grévy’s zebra (Equus grevyi), Common Eland (Taurotragus oryx), Topi (Damaliscus lunatus jimela), Impala (Aepyceros melampus), Thomson’s gazelle (Eudorcas thomsonii),  Reticulated Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis reticulata) and Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus) can be seen, in pairs or in groups, as they feed or gracefully gallop at the sign of our presence.

A short necked giraffe

Graceful giraffes, with their somewhat shorter necks (maybe because trees here are shorter), were unmindful of our presence as they continued  feasting on the branches of their favorite acacia trees.  Our vehicle halted when these tall “jaywalkers” crossed the road.  Others stayed put for a short while as if purposely posing for our cameras.   Too bad we weren’t able to bond or interact with the giraffes by feeding them (it is discouraged), truly a highlight of any trip to the sanctuary.  Such an experience would probably  come second to swimming beside a whale shark or butanding off Donsol (Sorsogon).

Zebras in the wild

From the original 108 African animals brought here in 1977, 3 or 4 generations of offspring have increased the animal population to 570  heads comprising 8 species, all herbivorous.  At the time of our visit, there were now 43 giraffes, 155 impalas, two Thompson gazelles, 122 water bucks, 78 zebras, 50 elands, 14 topis and 16 bushbucks. Together with indigenous animals, they range freely around the island in an environment that loosely approximates their original environment.

The Palawan bearcat

The guided tour includes stops at pens holding many of Palawan’s indigenous species.  The sanctuary has saved from extinction, by  successfully breeding in captivity, the foot-high The Philippine mouse-deer (Tragulus nigricans) or pilanduk, the smallest hoofed animal found in Asia; the largely nocturnal and endangered Calamian Deer (Hyelaphus calamianensis)  and the Philippine reshwater crocodile (Crocodylus mindorensis) which now lives along the mangrove swamps.  Also bred in captivity are the Palawan bearcat or Binturong (Arctictis binturong), Palawan bearded pig (Sus ahoenobarbus), tarsier or mago (Tarsius philippensis), scaly anteater or balintong (Manis javanica), leopard cat or maral (Felis bengalensis), Philippine porcupine (Hystrix pumila) or landak/duryan  and monitor lizard (Varanus salvator).  I had a very close encounter with a forever hungry binturong.  Too close, in fact, that he snarled when I tried to feed him a banana.

An encounter with a snarling bearcat

There are also over 120 species of birds, endemic and transient and, as a boon to birdwatching enthusiasts, the personnel here are quite capable of identifying these birds.  There are also protected rearing and egg-laying areas for giant sea turtles or pawikan (Chelonia mydas). The project also includes a 7-km. marine sanctuary which protects the highly endangered 16-20 dugongs or sea cows (Dugong dugon) that feed along the offshore sea grass beds, and  7 species of clams including what is believed to be the largest live giant clam shell (Tridacna gigas) in the world which weighs as much as 300 kgs..  As fishing is prohibited, commercial fishes, crabs and lobsters now breed here in undisturbed .  The coral reefs around the island have shown a 75% recovery rate.

Scuba Diving Palawan

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Trial dive with Mike Olondriz

The next day was the anniversary of the EDSA Revolution.  I woke up by 5:30 AM for my morning stroll with my videocam.  It turned out to be an educational tour as I had my first close encounter with the endangered Calamian hog-deer (Axis porsinus calamianensis).  Introduced in the early 1990s, it is now said to number more than a dozen.  The sounds of colorful exotic bird life is also evident among the trees as the island is home to orioles, kingfishers, turtle doves and imperial pigeons.  It also has a resident baruray or Rufous Night Heron.  Although I didn’t see any, there are also monitor lizards (Varanus salvator) and green sea turtles (Chelonia mydas).

Attending pre-dive lecture

After breakfast, it was off to my first trial dive.  It comes free with the travel package.  Tellie and my mom (for obvious reasons) begged off.  Our divemaster was Mike Olondriz.  At first I mistook him for a foreigner, but any notions I had were dispelled after he spoke Tagalog.  Later late-evening conversations with him revealed him to be a resident of Magallanes Village in Makati City.  His brother was a barkada of my friend (and SPED teacher of my son Jandy), Inaki Martinez.  Small world.  

Getting into the water

Before the actual dive, I had to undergo a lecture on the use of the scuba gear as well as breathing techniques.  Then it was off to the beach with Mike.  I looked silly as I walked backwards to the beach wearing my fins, but once in the water, I was fitted with my tank, weight belt and mask.   The 15-min. dive was easy at first, but when we got to the 15-ft. depth, my ears began to hurt as they felt like popping.  We ascended to the 10-ft. depth where Mike handed me bread crumbs to feed the fish.  I was soon surrounded by them, large and small, and some of the large fish (probably a Napoleon wrasse) took nips at my bare legs.

Suiting up in the water

AUTHOR’S NOTES

“Is it ethical?”  Books that I have read later have revealed that this fish feeding craze which brings the fish closer for underwater photography also makes them tamer and ideal spear gun targets.  Also feeding leftovers could also be fatal as these fish sometimes die of indigestion.

Exploring Dimakya Island and its Environs

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View of Isla Walang Lang-aw from Eagle’s Nest

The next day, I made an early morning, lung-busting hike, with many rest stops, along a trekking trail to the island’s highest point called Eagle’s Nest.  Along the way, I was on the lookout for wild boar (baboy damo) and wild chickens which, the resort staff said, hid in the woods. 

The resort as seen from my vantage point at Eagle’s Nest

Upon reaching the top, I got a panoramic eagle’s view of the surrounding islands including nearby Isla Walang Lang-aw (Island Without Trees).  A treehouse and a viewdeck is located here.  For a brief moment I felt like Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe.  After about an hour, I retraced my way back down to again be part of Swiss Family Robinson. 

After lunch, we, together with other guests, booked ourselves on an island-hopping tour (US$20 per person).  Our boat ride took us past numerous islands with thickly-vegetated, sea-and-wind-sculpted limestone cliffs and white sand beaches.   We stopped over on 3 of these islands (Tapadyan Island, Liatui Island and Isla Walang Lang-aw) were Tellie and I went swimming and snorkeling and did some trick photography.

Trick photography at Isla Walang Lang-aw

Back at the resort, we, as well as the other guests, were treated to another boat ride, this time a sunset cruise on board the resort’s 55-ft. long trimaran (with its all-convenient toilet).  We sat at the spacious front area, sipping drinks as we awaited the sun’s setting .  We weren’t disappointed as the sun set on the horizon, amidst a clear, cloudless night sky.

On board the trimaran
Sunset at paradise

Upon our return from our sunset cruise, we returned to our cottage to freshen up and were served dinner by candlelight, albeit in a different setting: by the beach.  The restaurant’s tables and food were set up along the beach and, while dining, we could hear the sound of the waves hitting the shore.

Dinner along the beach

On Our Way to Coron (Palawan)

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The DOT-accredited Club Paradise Resort, on the idyllic Dimakya Island, a beautiful 19-hectare rock island paradise on the northwest coast of Busuanga Island in Palawan, offered a low, 4-day vacation package of PhP11,500 per person, inclusive of airfare, accommodations, food and complimentary use of some of its facilities, and I, together with my youngest sister Tellie and my 69-year old mother Carol decided to avail of this.  This would be our first visit to Palawan.  We left Manila early in the morning of February 23, on a 80-min. Pacific Air flight to Busuanga, and arrived a little past 10 AM at Busuanga’s Yulo King Ranch (YKR) Airport.

Landing at Yulo King Ranch Airport

At the airport, we transferred to a passenger jeepney for a 30-min. leisurely drive, along a dirt road, to a mangrove forest.  Here, we made a 15-min. walk, along a 300-m. long wooden boardwalk lined with mangrove trees.  At the end of the boardwalk was a pier where a motorized outrigger boat awaited us to take us to the island.  The boat trip took all of 45 mins. and we reached the resort at just about noon.

Boat ride to the resort

Pulong Laki (Calapan, Mindoro Oriental)

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The next day, All Saints Day, Jing again packed us some lunch (including beer) for our excursion to Pulong Laki (Big Island), one of the 3 Baco Islets, the others being Pulong Munti (Little Island) and Pulong Gitna (Middle Island).  All have white sand beaches.  We espied these beautiful islands during the ferry crossing from Batangas City to Calapan.  Ronnie also brought along his fishing rod.

On our way

Jing also chartered a boat very early in the morning for our use as, if there are no charters, their owners usually leave early in the morning to catch fish for a living.  From Ronnie’s home, we walked towards the nearby beach where our motorized outrigger boat and the boatmen where waiting for us.  Once on board, we were soon on our way.  The trip was smooth, usual for the morning and, after about an hour, we made landfall on the island.

The island’s coarse sand beach

The island had a broad, coarse sand beach, with vegetation and shade some distance away.  This didn’t matter much to us as we savored our first dip in a Mindoro Oriental beach.  From the beach, we also had a panoramic view of a couple of islands.  We were the only excursionists on the island that day.  I guess that most Calapenos were visiting their dead while most local and foreign tourists were in Puerto Galera.  We had this beach to ourselves.  

Doing some trick photography

Ronnie went fishing  and sunbathing while the rest went swimming or shell hunting.  Ronnie caught a couple of small fish that day which he cooked.  By mid afternoon, we all left the island, upon the boatman’s suggestion,  to avoid the high, late afternoon waves.  Back on the mainland, we again had supper at the house of Ronnie and Jing’s aunt.