Casiguran Settlement (Sorsogon)

Casiguran Settlement

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After breakfast and checking out at Villa Isabel Hotel in Sorsogon City, we again boarded our coaster for the short 22.5 km. (30 min.) drive to Casiguran town.  Accompanying us was Mr. Angel Ayala, the former Information and Tourism Officer of Casiguran.  Our destination was to be the Casiguran Settlement, a housing project of Gov. Jose Edwin “Boboy” B. Hamor when he was still mayor (2016-2022) of Casiguran.  The sight of a monumental, multi-arched portal along the road signaled our arrival at our destination.

A row of brightly painted, pastel colored housing units

Sitting on 14 hectares of land reclaimed from the sea, this settlement houses 500 plus units for informal settlers whose income mainly relies on fishing and farming.  Built in 2017, the LGU awarded one 35 sq. m. (5 by 7 m.), one-storey unit per family, giving them a more decent and spacious home within this well-regulated community. All the families need to do is pay 10 pesos per day for five years after which their units will be fully awarded to them.  They are not allowed to sell or rent out their units.

The monumental, multi-arched portal and Plaza Escudero

At the center of Casiguran Settlement is Plaza Escudero, a vast,, grassy open space for recreational activities such as biking, jogging and other exercise activities.  Here, we had a stunning view of the Sorsogon Range.  Opposite the monumental portal is the equally monumental Statue of Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary, modeled after the image of Our Lady of La Naval de Manila, it serves as the community’s main attraction..  The statue sits atop a terraced mound and can be reached by a flight of steps.

Statue of Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary

Flanking these monumental structures are the housing units painted in bright, eye-catching pastel colors.  The Church of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary is a few streets away from the Casiguran Settlement,

AUTHOR’S COMMENT:

With its monumental structures, vast open spaces and majestic and pleasant views of the mountains and the sea, the Casiguran Settlement has the potential to be a major tourist attraction and pilgrimage site of the town as well as the province.

Casiguran Settlement: Brgy. Central, Casiguran, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Casiguran is located 537.9 kms. (a 12.5–hr. drive) from Manila and 23.2 kms. (a 30 min. drive) from Sorsogon City,  all via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Casiguran Tourism Officewww.facebook.com/LGU Casiguran Sorsogon. 

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Rompeolas Bay Walk (Sorsogon City, Sorsogon)

Rompeolas Bay Walk.  In the foreground is the standee while in the background is the partially cloud-shrouded Mt. Bulusan

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After our tour of the Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts, we were driven 4 kms. to Rompeolas Bay Walk.  Also known as the Sorsogon City Bay Walk, it is located along Sorsogon Bay.

Check out “Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts

Splendido de Rompeolas

Our creamy halo-halo

Here, we had a merienda of creamy halo-halo at Splendido de Rompeolas Restobar & Grill, one of a number of restaurants at the Rompeolas Food Court that serve breakfast, lunch, dinner and merenda meals. It is being developed by the provincial government as a tourist zone.

Rompeolas Food Court

Sports Bar 83, Boardroom Snacks & Games Cafe

Its name was derived from the Spanish word romper meaning “where the waves cavort.” At Rompeolas, Pinaculan Island, the “Rompeolas Sorsogon City” standee as well as picturesque views of Sorsogon Bay and, on a clear day, Mount Bulusan can be seen from afar.

Sorsogon Pier

It also has a fairyland view of Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral, with its colorful, dome and pointed steeples.

View of the dome and spires of the Sts. Peter & Paul Cathedral

The site of the old Sorsogon Pier (which juts into Sorsogon Bay), this pleasant, arrowhead-shaped promenade, with fresh sea air (especially in the morning), gets really crowded with students out on date, kids out on a day of fun (there is a playground), and those who just can’t get enough of the glorious and spectacular, reddish-orange  Sorsogon sunset over Pinaculan Island. It is also crowded during sunrise, with people exercising or jogging to start their day.

View of the sunset over Pinaculan Island from the causeway

The adjacent quiet, 3-hectare, tadpole-shaped Pinaculan Island, site of a lighthouse, was once only connected to the mainland, at Brgy. Bitan-o-Dalipay, during low tide.

Pinaculan Island

Today, it is now connected to the mainland via a causeway (built around 2012) and an aesthetically pleasing hanging bridge crossing over to Brgy. Bitan-o-Dalipay. 

The hanging bridge

On October 31, 2019, during Sorsogon’s Kasanggayahan Festival, a total of 7,127 Sorsogon residents, including Gov. Francis ‘Chiz’ Escudero and his wife actress Heart Evangelista, performed the Pantomina sa Tinampo (the Bicolano courtship dance mimicking the movement of doves in  courtship) from Fatima Church to Bulwagan and Rompeolas Baywalk. In doing so, Sorsogon now holds a Guinness World Record for the largest Philippine folk dance. Swapnil Dangarikar of India, official adjudicator from Guinness World Records, witnessed the historic performance.

Pinaculan Lighthouse

The 4-lane, 5.52-km. long Sorsogon City Coastal Rd., opened last August 30, 2020, connects Rompeolas Bay Walk with Brgy. Balogo.  It bypasses Sorsogon City’s main thoroughfare along Maharlika Highway. Providing a pleasant view of Sorsogon’s coastline, it also doubles as a protection against storm surges.

 

Rompeolas Bay Walk: Brgy. Talisay, Sorsogon City 4700, Sorsogon. Coordinates 12.96481,124.0041.

Splendido de Rompeolas Restobar & Grill: Pier Site, Rompeolas, Brgy. Talisay, Sorsogon City 4700, Sorsogon. Mobile number: (0912) 105-9950.

How to Get There: Sorsogon City is located 517.5 kms. (a 12–hr. drive) from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts (Sorsogon City, Sorsogon)

Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

The 2-storey, 2,638 sq. m., P77.6 million Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts (SCCA), also known as just the Sorsogon Cultural Center, is a state-of-the-art facility for audio and visual presentations.  It  is regarded as the second national cultural center of the Philippines, the first being the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex in Manila.

Inauguration plaque

A grand place to cover film and broadcast arts, as well as literary and visual arts, its presence will encourage local artists to pursue their passion through numerous workshops, seminars, anthologies, exhibits, symposia, competitions, and awards. It aims to establish good network among local and regional artists as well as cultural workers in the country. The center will also be a venue for local communities for organizing their leisure, providing opportunities for self-expression, initiatives and cultural education.

Mohri & P.A. Associates, Inc. was the consultant (site evaluation & analysis, architectural conceptual planning and design, detailed architectural and engineering design, and budgetary project cost estimates) for the theater. Construction of the venue began on October 16, 2017 and it was inaugurated on December 3, 2022.

Outdoor lounge lobby

The facility has a total seating capacity of 515 (338 seats on ground floor and 177 seats on the mid-floor level) and houses exhibit rooms, offices, an outdoor lobby, lounge lobby, vestibule, spectators’ area, orchestra pit and stage for performances and shows.

Lounge lobby ceiling

Run and managed by the Sorsogon Foundation for Culture and the Arts, it is itself distinct as it is shaped like a pili nut which makes it uniquely Sorsoganon.

Performance stage and lower seating area

Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts: Sorsogon City Government Complex Diversion Road, Brgy. Cabid-An, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Sorsogon City is located 517.5 kms. (a 12–hr. drive) from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Sorsogon Sports Complex (Sorsogon City)

Sorsogon Sports Complex

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

The 56,218 sq. m., four-storey world-class Sorsogon Sports Complex, formerly known as the Balogo Sports Complex, is a Roman Colosseum-inspired stadium built at a cost of ₱887 million (from the 2018 General Appropriations Act).  Mohri & P.A. Associates are the architects of this project.

The author at the entrance

This sports complex, when finished, will become the largest outdoor sports complex in the Southern Luzon and Bicol Region. It is scheduled to host the Palarong Bicol, PRISAA National Games 2023 and 2023 Palarong Pambansa.

The track oval, laid out with a Mondotrack (a prefabricated synthetic rubber track surface) all-weather surface, has 80 m. x 8 m. lanes, warm up side track and a 13,881.25 sq. m. stadium with a total seating capacity of 15,000 people (and a full house capacity of 20,000).  The ball courts were layered with tarmacadam asphalt or polymeric rubber crumbs.

It also houses facilities for meet officials, medical and press rooms, and male and female athletes dorm.  Also within it are the new Department of Education Building and Gymnasium.

Department of Education Building

The façade features Greek Corinthian columns and a gate adorned with two lion heads.  Started last January 11, 2019, it is still under construction by CT Leoncio Construction and Trading..

Sorsogon Sports Complex: Brgy. Balogo, East District, 4700 Sorsogon City, Sorsogon. 

How to Get There: Sorsogon City is located 517.5 kms. (a 12–hr. drive) from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Museo Sorsogon (Sorsogon City, Sorsogon)

Museo Sorsogon

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After our Whale Shark Interaction in Donsol, we again boarded our coaster for the 66.7-km. (1.5-hr.) drive to Sorsogon City, making a stopover at the relatively new, two-storey, Neo-Classical-style Museo Sorsogon within the Provincial Capitol Complex.

Check out “Whale Shark Interaction

The now glass-paneled cell doors

A brainchild of Gov. Francis Joseph “Chiz” G. Escudero, this two-storey museum is housed at the Old Sorsogon Provincial Jail. Built in 1916, the jail also hosted the Court of First Instance.

Historical Marker

When a new penitentiary was built and the inmates were transferred in 2019, Escudero saw the potential of the vacated building and decided to showcase the province’s history, culture and heritage. The property was restored by the Department of Public Works and Highways.

Restoration Marker

The museum displays significant historical and cultural artifacts and memorabilia of the province, highlighting its early settlers and settlement, participation in the 1896 Philippine Revolution, status during the American Occupation and locally-made products. Relevant artifacts are still continuously collected.

Garita (guardhouse)

The National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) managed the curatorial development of this new museum and also facilitated the loans of important artifacts from the National Museum of the Philippines.

Museum foyer

The NHCP formally turned over the museum to the Sorsogon Provincial Government on March 12, 2021, during its inauguration and blessing. NHCP Chairman Rene R. Escalante presented the Certificate of Turn-over to Gov. Francis Joseph “Chiz” G. Escudero, and the latter spearheaded the unveiling ceremonies.The museum was blessed by Sorsogon Bishop Jose Alan V. Dialogo.

Iron anchor from Donsol astillero

The inauguration was also attended by Deputy Speaker Evelina G. Escudero, National Museum of the Philippines Director-General Jeremy R. Barns, Sorsogon Vice Governor Manuel L. Fortes, Jr., Sorsogon City Mayor Ma. Ester E. Hamor, and other local government officials. Museo Sorsogon opened to the public on March 15, 2021

Decreto Real

Map of Sorsogon

The museum houses ten galleries housed in what was once a prison cell, with the cell doors now glass paneled.  The total area per floor is about 830 sq. m. Galleries 1 to 5 are located on the first floor of the building while Galleries 6 to 10 are located on the second floor.

Replica of the San Diego cannon (National Museum of the Philippines)

At the museum foyer, we were welcomed by a sizable, wall-hung political map showing Sorsogon’s towns and two legislative districts.

Hallway with sequential portraits of past provincial governors

Also on display in this area are the glass-framed copy of the Discreto Real (the document that established the province in 1894), a replica of a cannon recovered from the San Diego wreck site and a huge iron ship anchor recovered from the Donsol astillero.

The author at Gallery 9

Lining the ground floor hallway leading to the galleries are sequential portraits of former provincial governors of Sorsogon.

Gallery 1: Ang Pinagmulan ng Pangalan ng Sorsogon

Gallery 1, called “Ang Lalawigan ng Sorsogon: Ang mga Bayan at Lungsod Nito” (The Province of Sorsogon: Its Municipalities and City), contains 5 displays.:

  • Ang Pinagmula ng Pangalan ng Sorsogon (The Origin of the Name of Sorsogon)
  • Heograpiya ng Sorsogon (The Geography of Sorsogon)
  • Ang Klima at mga Importanteng Producto ng Sorsogon (Climate and Important Sorsogon Products)
  • Populasyon ng Sorsogon (The Population of Sorsogon)
  • Mga Wika ng Sorsogon (Sorsogon Languages) – the dialects the people speak

Gallery 1: Heograpiya ng Sorsogon

Gallery 2: Ang mga Kuweba ng Bato (The Caves of Bato)

Gallery 2, called “Panahong Prehistoriko at Pagsisimula ng mga Pamayanan” (The Prehistoric Period and the Beginning of Communities), contains 4 displays:

  • Ang mga Kuweba ng Bato (The Caves of Bato)
  • Ang Libingan sa Pilar (The Cemetery of Pilar)
  • Ang Pagsisimula ng mga Sinaunang Pamayanan (The Beginning of Early Settlements)
  • Mga Alamat ng Lawa ng Bulusan (Legends of Lake Bulusan)

Gallery 3: Ang Misa sa Gibal-ong (Gibalon) Magallanes

Gallery 3: Pag-aalsa sa Sorsogon (Uprising in Sorsogon)

Gallery 3, called “Sorsogon noong Panahon ng mga Espanyol” (Sorsogon during the Spanish Period), contains 10 displays that narrates how the Spanish regime shaped Sorsgon:

  • Ang Misa sa Gibal-ong (Gibalon) Magallanes (The Mass of Gibalon, Magallanes)
  • Ang Misyon ng mga Pransiskano sa Sorsogon (The Franciscan Mission in Sorsogon)
  • Erecciones de Pueblos y Parroquias: Pagtatatag ng mga Bayan noong ika-17 Daantaon (The Establishment of Towns and Parishes During the 17th Century)
  • Pag-aalsa sa Sorsogon (Uprising in Sorsogon)
  • Astilleros: Ang Halaga ng Sorsogon sa Kalakhang Galyon (The Importance of Sorsogon in the Galleon Trade)
  • Ang mga Pagsalakay ng mga Pirata sa Sorsogon (The Pirate Attacks in Sorsogon)
  • Baluartes, Estacadas y Castillos: Ang mga Tanggulan at Moog sa Sorsogon (Bastions, Stockades and Castles: The Forts and Towers in Sorsogon)
  • Ang mga Bahay-na-Bato ng Sorsogon (The Stone Houses of Sorsogon)
  • Mga Tradisyong Relihiyoso sa ibat-ibang Bayan ng Sorsogon (Religious Traditions in the Different Towns of Sorsogon)
  • Ang Espesyal na Debosyon kay Ina, Nuestra Señora de Peñafrancia sa Sorsogon (The Special Devotion to our Mother, Our Lady of Peñafrancia of Sorsogon).

Ang Espesyal na Debosyon kay Ina, Nuestra Señora de Peñafrancia10 sa Sorsogon

Astilleros Ang Halaga ng Sorsogon sa Kalakhang Galyon

Gallery 4, called “Rebolusyon sa Sorsogon” (Sorsogon Revolution), contains 3 displays that narrates the Philippine Revolution that unfolded at the province at the tail end of their 333 year rule:

  • Kronolohiya ng mga Kaganapan (Chronology of Events)
  • Si Obispo Jorge Barlin sa Sorsogon (Bishop Jorge Barlin of Sorsogon)
  • Ang mga “Pulahanes” sa Sorsogon (The “Pulahanes” of Sorsogon).

Gallery 4: Si Obispo Jorge Barlin sa Sorsogon

Gallery 4: Ang mga “Pulahanes” sa Sorsogon

Gallery 5, called “Sorsogon sa Pananakop ng mga Amerikano” (Sorsogon During the American Occupation), contains 8 displays that narrates the early armed resistance against the Americans and the progress brought about by these eventual colonizers up to the time of the Philippine Commonwealth Government:

  • Pagdating ng mga Amerikano (The Arrival of the Americans)
  • Ang mga “Amerikanistas” at mga Anti-Amerikano; Ang Pagkilos ni Lt. Col. Emeterio Funes (The “Amerikanistas” and the Anti-Americans: The Action of Lt. Col. Emeterio Funes)
  • Pagtatanggol ng Donsol Laban sa mga Amerikano (Donsol’s Defense Against the Americans)
  • Mga Gurong Amerikano (Thomasites) at ang Pampublikong Edukasyon sa Sorsogon (The American Teachers (Thomasites) and Public Education in Sorsogon)
  • Larawan ng Bagong Kaayusan (A Portrait of the New Order)
  • Pampublikong Istraktura (Public Structures)
  • Pagsupil sa Kolera (Cholera Control)
  • Sa Ilalim ng Pamahalaang Komonwelt (Under the Commonwealth Government)

Gallery 5: Pagsupil sa Kolera

Gallery 5: Pagdating ng mga Amerikano

Gallery 6, called “Sorsogon sa Pananakop ng mga Hapon” (Sorsogon During the Japanese Occupation), contains 7 displays:  Here, we learn about Bicolano heroes such as Wenceslao Vinzons (of Camarines Norte) and Salvador Escudero who both commanded guerilla units.

  • Ang Ikalawang Digmaang Pandaigdig at ang Pananakop ng Sorsogon (The Second World War and the Conquest of Sorsogon)
  • Mga Gerilla ng Sorsogon: Ang Gerilla Yunit ni Lapus (Sorsogon Guerillas: The Guerilla Unit of Lapus)
  • Mga Gerilla ng Sorsogon: Ang Gerilla Yunit ni Escudero (Sorsogon Guerillas: The Guerilla Unit of Escudero)
  • Ang mga War Tunnel ng Bulan (The War Tunnels of Bulan)
  • Ang Masaker ng mga Tsino ng Bulan (The Massacre of the Chinese of Bulan)
  • Ang Pagtatapos ng Digmaan (The End of the War)
  • Mga Bayaning Gerilya ng Sorsogon (Guerilla Heroes of Sorsogon)

Ang Ikalawang Digmaang Pandaigdig at ang Pananakop ng Sorsogon

Gallery 6: Ang Masaker ng mga Tsino ng Bulan

Here, a bartolina (solitary confinement cell) displays some restored weapons used during the guerilla period

Gallery 6: Restored weapons at the bartolina (solitary confinement cell)

Gallery 6: Battle Dressing

Gallery 7, called “Pagbangon at Pag-unlad” (Rise and Development), contains 3 displays that narrates Sorsogon’s road to recovery from damages during the war, the disasters that Sorsogon had to endure (catstrophic storms, eruptions of Mount Bulusan) and famous Sorsoganons who displayed their heroic mettle during the Martial Law years including Lilosa Hilao, the 23-year old student journalist who was arrested, raped and viciously tortured then killed (the first detainee to be killed during that time):

  • Mga Anak ng Sorsogon sa Panahon ng Batas Militar hanggang sa People Power (Sorsogueños During Martial Law Until People Power)
  • Mga Mapaminsalang Bagyo (Destructive Typhoons)
  • Mga Aktibidad bg Bulkang Bulusan (The Activities of Mount Bulusan)

Gallery 7: Mga Anak ng Sorsogon sa Panahon ng Batas Militar hanggang sa People Power

Gallery 7: Mga Aktibidad bg Bulkang Bulusan

Gallery 8, called “Mga Industriya ng Sorsogon” (Sorsogon Industries), showcases Sorsogon’s main industries.  On display are decorative and utilitarian items made  from niyog (mature coconut),  pili (pili nut) and abaka (abaca) plus some tools produced by the blacksmiths (panday),of Sorsogon.

Gallery 8: Pagpapanday (Blacksmithing)

Gallery 8: Abaka (Abaca)

The gallery also displays the mural of Lady Justice (Justitia),  painted by a certain V. L. Jesalva, and restored by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP).

Gallery 8: Lady Justice (Justitia) by V.L. Jesalva

Gallery 8: Pili (Pili Nut)

Gallery 9, called “Pantomina sa Tinampo (Sorsogon’s traditional love and courtship dance), exhibits 2 events:

  • Kasanggayahan Festival
  • Pantomina sa Tinampo (Traditional Courtship Folk Dance, Guinness World Record Title Holder 2019)

Gallery 9: Kasanggayahan Festival

Gallery 9: Pantomina sa Tinampo

During the province’s 125th anniversary celebration on October 31, 2019, Sorsogon bagged the Guinness World Record for the “Largest Filipino Folk Dance” when 7,127 participants from all over the province performed the Pantomina along the Rompeoplas Baywalk.

Gallery 9: Guinness World Record Certificate

Gallery 10, called “Mga Pook Pasyalan sa Sorsogon,” contains 4 displays that feature replicas and stories behind Sorsogon’s natural and historical tourist gems:

  • Isla, Dagat, Dalampasigan (Island, Sea, and Beach)
  • Anyaya ng Inang Kalikasan (Invitation of Mother Nature)
  • Paglalakbay na Makasaysayan (Historical Journey)
  • Mayamang Kultura at Pananampalataya (Rich Culture and Faith)

Gallery 10: Gubat

Gallery 10

The yard, at the back of the museum, was converted into an 875-sq.m. open-air amphitheater.  Now a venue for events and stage performances, it has a six-tier seating area.

Open-air Amphitheater.  At both ends are Kape-Terya and Kape-Tolyo

At the back of the museum, within the corners of the amphitheater, are the Kape-Terya (Cafeteria) and the Kape-Tolyo (coffee shop). The former offers local snacks while the latter offers both hot and cold coffee to museum visitors.

The Souvenir Shop, located at the entrance of the museum, displays “made in Sorsogon” products of micro, small and medium enterprises such as snacks, beauty products made from pili, handicrafts and accessories, all sold with no price mark-up.

A staircase wall also features the original artworks of the provincial jail inmates including a Sigue-Sigue Sputnik gang’s rendition of the portrait of Cuban revolutionary Ernesto “Che” Guevara.

Museo Sorsogon: Brgy. 1, Burabod, Provincial Capitol Compound, Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0912)-236-6422.  E-mail: museo@sorsogon.gov.ph. Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MuseoSorsogon. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8:30 AM -12 noon and 1:00-5:30 PM.

How to Get There: Sorsogon City is located 517.5 kms. (a 12–hr. drive) from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Whale Shark Interaction (Donsol, Sorsogon)

Whale shark (butanding)

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After breakfast and checking out at the 15-room, 3-star Elysia Beach Resort, we were all transported, via our coaster, to the nearby Whale Interaction Center for the highlight of our day – interacting with whale sharks (locally called butanding, in other parts of the country they are locally known as bailan, kulwano, tawiki or toki), the first thing that comes into mind when you’re in the province.  This would be my first whale shark interaction in Donsol but also my third overall, having done so twice in Oslob, Cebu.

Check out “Resort Review: Elysia Beach Resort” and “Whale Shark Interaction (Oslob, Cebu)

Butanding Visitors Center

This activity had its beginnings in 1998 when the then sleepy town of Donsol gained international prominence when over 90 whale sharks (scientific name: Rhincodon typus) congregated at the mouth of the murky, nutrient-rich waters of the long and winding Quipia (or Donsol) River.   The infrastructure for whale shark-watching tours is already in place and now, a quarter of a century later, we were to give it a try.

The short orientation video

Considered as the largest fish in the world, they measure from 4.6 m. (15 ft.) to as long as 18 m. (60 ft.) in length, weigh up to 40 tons and live up to 100 years.  Typical sightings in Donsol range from 4-12 m. in length.  They have broad, flat heads and 3 prominent ridges on the upper flank. Its huge body is covered with a checkerboard pattern of silvery polka dots and stripes on its blue-gray-brown skin.

Listening to the orientation

Whale sharks are highly migratory and their movement may be guided by food availability; water temperature and quality; and environmental factors such as weather, currents and wind.  Where they go during the off-season is still not known.

Whale sharks are filer feeders, typically feeding on a varied diet of plankton, krill, squid and invertebrate larva which flourish only in healthy conditions.  Thus, they act as an indicator of the seas’ general health.  Their huge mouths (as long as 2 m. across) are lined with thousands of tiny teeth which are neither used for biting or chewing.  Large volumes of water are sucked into the mouth, where food is retained in the gill rakers, and the water is released through the gill slits.

The floating pontoon

The other Sorsogon towns of Castilla, Magallanes and Pilar are also noted for butanding sightings.  Since then, these gentle giants, have kept coming back and the area has become one of the biggest draws in Southern Luzon.

The adjoining beach

Interaction tours have provided the local communities with an important livelihood. In March 1998, through Fisheries Administrative Order No. 193, the Philippine government banned the killing or harming of whale sharks and export of by-products.      Time Magazine featured it as the Best Animal Encounter in Asia.

The author

It is believed that these whale sharks, about 30 to 40 of them at any one time, converge off the Donsol waters to feed on plankton, krill and juvenile fish. They allow humans to swim or interact with them and this phenomenon has attracted hundreds of tourists around the world eager to interact with these gentle giants of the sea.

The author (left) with the rest of the group at our assigned boats

The day of our visit was within the official whale-watching season, coinciding with the northeast monsoon, starts during the months of October and November and peaks from February 1 to May 31, when the sea is at its clearest and calmest.

Our spotter scanning the horizon for butanding

Upon the arrival at Butanding Visitors Center, we registered ourselves at the center and attended a short orientation. Donsol protects these whale sharks through guidelines and local ordinances that must be strictly followed.  World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Philippines is working closely with the local government and private organizations in researching and monitoring of whale sharks, information and educational campaigns, and sustainable ecotourism development and management. Here are some of the guidelines:

Ms. Ann Dimayacyac and the author waiting for the signal from the BIO to get in the water

  • Wearing sun block lotion was not allowed as its chemicals could harm the butanding.
  • Feeding them is a no no. The butanding has to show up, on their own, to feed on plankton and krill.
  • Only six (6) interaction swimmers are allowed per boat and only one (1) interaction boat per one butanding. The other interaction boats will have to wait their turn. A maximum of 15 boats are allowed to go daily.
  • You are allowed to use a mask, snorkel and fins (bring your own) and can swim with them for as long as the sharks feel comfortable.
  • To limit stress to the sharks, scuba gear, holding on to or riding the animals, clapping, shouting, stomping and flash photography is prohibited.
  • The recommended distance from the whale shark is 3 m. from the tail.
  • Do not restrict their movement or impede its natural path.
  • Scooters, jet skis or any motorized underwater propulsion is not allowed.
  • If the sharks are alarmed or harassed, the encounter is stopped immediately.

After our orientation, we proceeded to our accredited boats where we met up with our assigned boat crew including spotters and our Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO) named Michael Radores the official group leader, whose instructions we were to strictly follow. As we went on our way, our spotter stood on a high vantage point of the boat, scanning the horizon for signs of a whale shark.  Sightings are not guaranteed but there is an 85% chance of encountering and seeing whale sharks.   There were a number of sightings the day before so we were hoping for the same today.

After a number of unsuccessful tries, our spotter again espied one from afar and Michael finally told Ms. Ann Dimayacyac and I to don our snorkels and sit on the port side of the boat.  Once he said the word “Jump,” we got into the water together with Michael.  After some time in the water, we saw the whale shark with its distinct white polka dot spots.  Within that short window, we got to see it up close and personal before it swam away. Check out the video here.

My successful encounter with this harmless, gentle, friendly and playful giant of the sea could only be described by me as surreal.  Luckily, the excitement of my encounter was recorded by Michael using my cellphone camera encased in a waterproof phone pouch.  The epitome of wildlife encounters, this was a singular experience of a lifetime and any nature enthusiast or eco-tour fanatic should not afford to miss this.  A whale shark interaction tours can take as long as 2 to 3 hours.

 

How to Get There: Donsol is located 489.7 kms. (an 11.5–hr. drive), via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26, from Manila and 78.3 kms. (a 1.75–hr. drive), via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26 and the Putiao-Pilar-Donsol Rd., from Sorsogon City. From Donsol town proper, the resort is an 8.2-km./15-min. drive.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism, Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Donsol Tourism Office: Visitor’s Center, Brgy. Dancalan, Donsol 4715, Sorsogon. Mobile number: (0917) 137-5134. E-mail: donsoltourismoffice@gmail.com. Facebook: https: www.facebook.com/DonsolTourism/

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Panumbagan Sandbar (Pilar, Sorsogon)

Panumbagan Sandbar

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After our lunch at Casa Almei Beach Resort, we returned to our respective boats for the boat ride to the tamarind –shaped, 5-km. long Panumbagan Sandbar, an emerging tourist destination in the Bicol Region within the vast cobalt waters of Pilar Bay.

Lato (sea grapes) harvested by our tour guide Mr. Omar Nepomuceno

A story goes that the islet got its name when a big but dead crocodile was found there with evidence that it had been battered (umbag) by the locals.

Approaching the islet

Along the way, we stopped at the Bantigue Point Marine Sanctuary where edible sea urchins (locally called suwaki or uni), known as an aphrodisiac in Japan for thousands of years, and sea grapes (lato) are cultured for food. Here, we watched the harvesting of the latter by our tour guide Mr. Omar Nepomuceno.

Making landfall

From the marine sanctuary, a further 20-min. boat ride brought us to the islet.  Once we arrived at the sandbar, we were greeted by its clear waters and powdery shores. Panumbagan offers raw beauty for travelers looking for off-the-beaten sanctuaries. Here, we spent an enjoyable late afternoon out at sea, wading in the waters or lounging on the beach.

The author at Panumbagan Sandbar

Research done before this trip stated that this sandy patch features 21 connected by floating cottages (designed by Arch. Melo Naval of the Provincial Tourism Office) connected by floating bamboo bridges built in the style of three octagonal rings of 7 cottages each. However, during our visit, they were nowhere to be found as they were destroyed during a series of typhoons that hit the province.

On a clear day, one can have a breathtaking view of two of the most famous and active volcanoes in the Bicol Region – the 2,463 m. high Mt. Mayon and the 1,565 m. high Mt. Bulusan, but we were not privileged to see both during our visit as it was very cloudy.  Also, as it was already high tide being that late in the afternoon, the long sandbar was underneath the waves.

Strolling along the now disappeared sandbar

Still, on a regular basis, the beautiful sand bar charms its visitors with its pebbly white sand dotted with small pockets of greenery, adding to its beauty.

Some of the flora I found on the islet included mangroves (bakawan), aroma trees (Acacia farnesiana) and boton trees (Barringtonia asiatica)

A thorny aroma tree (Acacia farnesiana)

However, for those fortunate enough to stay out at Panumbagan until late in the afternoon, you can still watch the sunset while dozens of egrets pass by the beach.

A starfish found in shallow waters

This exciting day tour for travelers fond of the sea, sun, and sand is something you should not miss, living the island life for a day as we went to an off-the-beaten-path water adventure.

Bleached coral with skeleton of a sea urchin

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

As with other islands in the country, litter and garbage, especially plastic bottles, brought in by typhoons or left behind by visitors, are found strewn around the island. As such, periodic cleanups should be undertaken to maintain the appeal of this sandbar.

Panumbagan Sand Bar: Brgy. Bantayan, Pilar, Sorsogon.  Snorkeling tours, inclusive of boat transfers, registration fee, guide, snorkeling gear rental and complimentary lunch with refreshments, are available. Maximum of 10 pax per boat. Check the availability by choosing a date. Email: reservations_donsol@yahoo.com.  Mobile numbers: (0917) 503-6403 and (0919) 868-6426.

How to Get There: Pilar is located 495.2 kms. (a 12-hr. drive  via Pan Philippine Highway/AH26) from Manila and 57.7 kms. (a 1-hr. drive via Central Nautical Highway and Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26) from Sorsogon City.  From Pilar Port, it is a 50-min. boat ride to the islet.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Pilar Municipal Tourism Office: E-mail: pilarsor.tourism@gmail.com.  Mobile number: (0948) 955-7727.

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, 4700 Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins (Pilar Sorsogon)

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

A few minutes hike from Casa Almei Beach Resort are the Ruins of the Astillero de Panlatuan.  Astilleros are Spanish-era shipyards used for construction and repair of the galleons that plied the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade. The towns of Donsol and Pilar, both sheltered from typhoons and having extensive coasts dotted by bays, coves and major rivers that are navigable, were the location of several shipyards. An extensive mangrove surrounds them, making it a safe haven for boats and people.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins

The astillero at Donsol (probably used as a construction, repair and smelting site) was established at the mouth of a river while the astillero at Pilar was established on a cove. When the important astillero on Bagatao Island in Magallanes was destroyed by Moro pirates, it was transferred to Panlatuan Bay after the Galleon Trade ended in 1650.

A portion of the fence built with cobble stones, with imported broken glass on the top for added protection

The revolution in Sorsogon was ignited  by the abuse and exploitation of the Panlatuan shipyard workers by their Spanish masters.  On August 5, 1898, desperate workers of the astillero rose in arms and raided the homes of four Spaniards residing in the barrio, slaying them with machetes.

Another stone structure on the site

The two astilleros of Pilar are separated by bodies of waters. The Binanuahan Astillero (probably the administrative site), at the Pilar Peninsula, is more inland while the Panlatuan Astillero (probably the construction and smelting site), located on a cove, is nearer the sea.  The deep waters, two rivers, an extensive mangrove, a vast flatland and a hill of the latter made it a favorable choice for an astillero.

The Panlatuan astillero has the best preserved features of the three.  Remains of large (approximately 30-40 cm. in diameter), equidistantly buried wooden posts, seen during low tide (only 30 cms. Can be seen), are associated with the presence of a pier and are arranged either parallel or perpendicular to each other.

Travel agents listen as our guide narrates the history of the site

The remains of a big gate, ruins of watchtowers and a warehouse were also documented during archaeological surveys and excavations done in the 1990s. Two old deep wells on the site, built with adobe tuff, are still being used by the owners.

One of several deep water wells on the site

The stone structures had thick walls made with riverine stones, adobe tuff and lime mortar; a roof with earthenware tiles and big windows and door frames. The watchtower used riverine cobble stones while the fence enclosing the astillero used cobble stones with imported broken glass on the top for added protection.

A ceramic shard recovered from the site

Corroded iron nails, chain rings, bronze sheathing nails, iron tools, a porthole window, Chinese, European and local ceramic shards (I was given one recovered on the site), brick tiles and Spanish coins were recovered on this site. A large slag concentration, pointing to smelting activities in the past, was also found on the northeastern side.

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

Since the Panlatuan astillero was part of a series of events that resulted in the rapid spread of revolutionary activities in Sorsogon it, in my opinion, deserves to be declared a National Historical Site by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines, with a historical plaque installed.  The site should also be rehabilitated and restored.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins: Panlatunan, 4714 Pilar, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Pilar is located 495.2 kms. (a 12-hr. drive  via Pan Philippine Highway/AH26) from Manila and 57.7 kms. (a 1-hr. drive via Central Nautical Highway and Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26) from Sorsogon City.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Pilar Municipal Tourism Office: E-mail: pilarsor.tourism@gmail.com.  Mobile number: (0948) 955-7727.

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.

The Iconic Pansit of Cabagan (Isabela)

The iconic Pancit Cabagan

Prior to our return to the City of Ilagan from Cabagan, we took time out to observe the making of the festive, hearty and mouth watering Pancit Cabagan (a must try if you are in Cabagan) at Mariloi’s Panciteria and Restaurant, one the well known pansiterias in the town.  Here, we were welcomed by owner Ms. Marivic Tagao who would demonstrate how this unique, saucy pansit dish variety is prepared.

Mariloi’s Restaurant

But first, the history of the origin of the uniquely delicious Pancit Cabagan (or Pansi Cabagan, pansi being the Ybanag term for pansit), considered as one of the most popular food in the province and the Cagayan Vallley and a symbol of the town’s culture and heritage.

Just like any other noodle dish in the country, Pancit Cabagan is of Chinese origin. In 1887, according to a research conducted, a group of Chinese traders, originally from Amoy (now Xiamen), China, landed in Aparri (Cagayan). Among them was Sia Liang (also known as Diangga) who married Augustina Deray Laddaran, a Filipina, and established a panciteria in Cabagan during the pre-war period, using ingredients that were locally available at that time.

Today, many roadside eateries and restaurants in this town offer their own take on this very filling noodle recipe. This pansit version makes use of miki noodles (made with wheat, flour, lihiya and eggs) and eggs similar to that of Tuguegarao’s Pancit Batil Patung (translated as “beat the egg” and “place on top”).

The pancit’s toppings – veggies, lumpiang shanghai, lechon carajay, meatballs, quail eggs

However, the eggs are boiled and not poached. Quail eggs (pugo) are commonly used to make this dish.  This pansit version also has more sauce (sweet and salty) compared to the others. The noodles are not submerged in sauce or broth, so this cannot be categorized as mami (noodle soup).

Ms. Marivic Tagao

Marivic showed us how the miki noodles were cooked in oil in a wok, Upon draining, the already prepared toppings that make this pancit truly delicious are were generously added – bite-sized slices of lechon carajay (crispy pork belly boiled with spices and deep fried), lumpia shanghai (fried egg roll), meatballs, quail eggs, a medley of veggies  and cooked igado (stewed pork liver).  This was served with calamansi (Philippine lemon).  We all took turns trying out this iconic dish.

The restaurant also serves delicious bulalo (soup with bone-in beef shank), beef mami, chicken mami, pares (braised beef stew), lomidinuguan (Filipino version of blood stew) and papaitan (a bitter soup made from cow’s innards). The flourishing noodle industry of the town has spawned the annual Pansi Festival (every January 16-25, the patronal Feast of St. Vincent Ferrer) that includes events such as a noodle contest, beauty pageants and cultural and sports competitions.

Mariloi’s Pancieria and Restarant: Maharlika Highway, Brgy. Cubag, 3328 Cabagan (near Isabela State University-Cabagan Campus and beside 4J Hotel), Isabela. Mobile number: (0917) 505-1269.  E-mail: marlontagao@yahoo.com. Open daily, 7 AM – 10:30 PM. Coordinates: 17.41936,121.79452.

How to Get There: Cabagan is located 458.1 kms. (a 10-hr. drive), via the Pan Philippine Highway/AH26, from Manila and 45.4 kms. (a 1-hr. drive) from the City of Ilagan.

The Potters of Santa Maria (Isabela)

The pottery of the Ybanags of Santa Maria, Isabela

On our fifth day in Isabela, we boarded our tour bus for the long 85-km. (2-hour) drive to Santa Maria where we were to observe the indigenous Ybanag method of producing pots and earthen ware.  Along the way, we crossed the Cagayan River via the Cabagan – Santa Maria Overflow Bridge (usually impassable during heavy rains) which will soon be replaced by the still unfinished, 720 m. long, 12-span, P639.6 million Santa Maria-Cabagan Landmark Bridge.

Santa Maria-Cabagan Landmark Bridge

Upon arrival at Brgy.Poblacion 3, one of four barangays engaged in pottery making (the others are Poblacion 2, San Rafael West and Quinagabian) located in the interior northwestern part of the province, we were welcomed by Santa Maria Vice-Mayor Michael Abraham G. Pagauitan and Municipal Tourism Officer Rex T. Arao.  After registering ourselves at the barangay hall, both toured us around the center of pottery making in the community.

Municipal Tourism Officer Rex T. Arao (center) with members of national media

The unique indigenous pottery traditions of the Madweng inan Ybanag community showcase the Ybanag (or Ibanagculture as a whole. Their pottery products differ from other ethnographic people with the way they make this earthenware which they call dweng, an Ybanag term derived from Madweng, referring to an Ybanag  potter who makes and sells pottery products made from clay and other indigenous materials.

Members of national media

Santa Maria boasts huge non -metallic deposit of clay (davvun) or mud containing minerals and other organic materials which are similar to those plant and animal remains which is the basically the main ingredient of the dweng (pot). The dweng products of Santa Maria include pots for cooking purposes, vases, storage jars, garden and home decorations and bricks.

Since 1954, save for a minimal technological advancement in manufacturing pots using the hurmaan ( molder), there have been no major changes in the method of manufacture from the teachings of the Kalingas. Like other tribes of the Cordillera Central as well as the Bukidnon, Tausug, Pampango, and Cebuano, they use a technique called “paddle and anvil.”

Finished products for viewing

However, the Pampango, Cebuano, and Tausug use an anvil made of stone while the Mandukayan Kalinga use their hands to shape the pot and press its walls thin, then the inside is smoothened by a curved piece of bamboo.  The Ybanag pottery tradition was introduced by the Kalingas.  Forming the dweng products of Santa Maria does not happen in single hour or day. To assure its quality upon utilization, it involves various stages and processes in their pottery making.

Scrap wood, garani (rice straw)and carabao/cow manure is inserted in spaces between the pots in preparation for the baking process

First, the davvun, from vast lands nearby, are delivered to their community via a careta, carts pulled by tamed animals. The soft davvun (clay) is first manually pounded and then stored in a humid place covered with plastic ready for the Madweng to mammakkal, the process where the clay is being formed in round balls ready to be hollowed.

Ms. Ruby Canceran, a more than 20-year veteran of pottery making, hollowing out the clay

The molded clay is then wrapped individually with plastic to maintain its moisture, ready for the next stage – the matuvugan (from a root word tuvug meaning “in addition”). In this process, davvun is being added to increase its height and width. Gradually, as it widen, a pempel (a rectangular, flat wooden paddle) is used to paddle the pot while inside is an adadamma (a flat stone) which supports the appepe (a flat wooden paddle used to give shape).  All the while, the Madweng paddles to ensure the right shape of the earthen jar. They then need to be dried and covered again for some hours to form the lid of the pot.

A Madweng woman using a pempel (a flat, wooden paddle) to ensure the right shape of the jar

In the mabibigan (from the root word bibig meaning “mouth) stage, the lid of the pot is formed with the appepe on the outside, opposite a smooth batu (stone anvil to hollow pre-molded round balls) held inside.

Using a potters wheel

Likewise, a kingkil, an inch wide bamboo stick, is used to scrape and smoothen the rough portion of the pot. The walls of the pot are systematically and carefully made thin, smooth and even with the aid of a lupedas or gami, a soft wet cloth used for trimming the edges of the rim of the pot during the finishing stage. It takes an hour to dry.

Using a bamboo stick

After it dries, the pot is ready for the matumpo stage where the pot is turned upside down. As the pot does not yet have a foot to stand up on its own, the base needs to be leveled or flattened using the appepe and the batu to stand.

The next stage is the matakyang (from the Ybanag term meddan tu takki na meaning “to add support”). In this process, a tȁgang (a pre-formed clay patterned from the lid of an aluminum pot) is designed to hold the pot in place until it dries.

Maffulang (painting) stage

After this process is systematically done, the pots are now ready for the maffulang (painting) stage.  A kind of davvun is used to color or paint the pots red.  For a while, the davvun is soaked in water to soften the soil, ready to be kneaded, until it becomes fine.  The residue is strained to ensure the finest quality. In this stage, a commercial paint brush is used to paint the pot to its natural look. To facilitate the painting faster, a potter’s wheel, manually operated by the foot, is used to yield more than a hand does.

After mafulla stage, the pots will be dried for a while.  They proceed to makkili stage where uneven or rugged parts of the pots are scraped and a lupedas used for the finishing touches. Next is the akkingki , another step to keep the pots shiny.

Garani (rice straw)

When this is done, the pots are now ready for the last stage for all kinds or types of dweng – the magabba or maluttu (firing, baking or cooking) stage.  Magabba is an Ibanag term which means to cook or “mallutu.”  This stage is usually done in the their own workshop or within an open area adjacent to their houses. This busy and laborious day for the potters, done with so much prudence and caution during the hottest ray of sunshine, takes a whole day, from the preparation down to cooking and cooling.

Carabao/cow manure

In the cooking area, the dweng is arranged on top of the evenly scattered pieces of dried wood or the carabao/cow manure and evenly covered by garani (rice straw) as each side is protected by unused or rejected dwengs, in anticipation of a possible collapse happening. Then the firing begins. Depending on the products and its volume, cooking hours ranges from a minimum of 3 to 5 hours. This indigenous way of cooking has been introduced and practiced for a long time and until the present.

Magabba (baking stage)

How to Get There: Santa Maria is located 451.2 kms. (a 10-hr. drive), via the Pan Philippine Highway, AH26, to Manila and 7.8 kms. (a 1.5-hr. drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Municipal Tourism, Culture and Arts Office: mobile number: (0905) 692-1342.