Gigantes Island Hopping (Carles, Iloilo)

Gigante Norte Island

After a hearty breakfast with the whole group at the coffee shop, a hectic schedule of island hopping awaited us.   We left Balbagon Island, together with other resort guests, by 10 AM. on board a large outrigger boat.  Along the way we passed many of the beautiful islands that the Gigantes are known for.  After about 30 mins., we reached our first destination: the southern side of Brgy. Gabi in Gigante Norte Island.  Our boat docked along a steep rocky wall.  As it was high tide, our climbed up the wall was shorter.  Upon reaching the top of the wall, we beheld before us  a hidden lagoon with clear, shallow waters  surrounded by steep and rugged limestone cliffs covered with sparse vegetation.

A hidden lagoon called Tangke

Calm, circular and lake-like lagoons (doubtless from the Spanish word laguna meaning “lake”) such as these are found in low latitude countries such as the Philippines.  They have openings to the sea, always leeward of prevailing winds, but are protected from it by a sandbar or coral reef.  Here, the clear shallow waters rise and fall with the tides.   According to one theory, lagoons are formed when hard coral growth in the center fails to keep pace with those on the periphery.  Waves and storms disintegrate coral in the center and pile them up at the margin, increasing the height of the island which in the course of time become covered by vegetation.

This salt water lagoon before us was locally called Tangke (“tank”).  The lagoon’s rugged limestone periphery, weathered to an incredibly rough surface, are of organic origin.  They are formed by the accumulation of the calcareous skeletons of marine animals and plants, mainly coral and coralline algae.  Its flora is sparse, mostly a few widely distributed strand plants and trees.   Living coral polyps continually extend the fringe. Such was the beauty of the place that we can’t wait to get into our swimming outfits and dip in its shallow, sparklingly clear waters.  Simply Heaven! Other members of the party opted to climb its lofty cliffs in an effort to be physically (and dangerously) nearer to their Creator.  The place is also a 15-min. boat ride east of Sitio Langub.

Little Boracay

After about 30 mins. of lolling around the lagoon, we again boarded our pumpboat for our next destination, a beach called “Little Boracay.”   We arrived at 11:10 AM.  The beach before us was truly a mini-version of the country’s number one destination, albeit shorter.  The other difference is its seclusion.   The beach is backed by a steep, densely-vegetated limestone cliff and because of this there are no resorts. The turquoise waters were just as clear and the white sand beach gradually sloping and fine as sugar, with hardly any shells or pebbles.     Jandy and Cheska were soon off swimming in the shallow waters as our portable monobloc chairs and tables and beach umbrellas were unloaded.  Lunch was served al fresco in food warmers by the beach and eaten kamayan style.  And what a lunch it was!  Tropical paradise at its best.

The sandbar of Cabugao Gamay Island

We would have wanted to stay longer in this beautiful, secluded beach but our itinerary dictated otherwise as we had to leave for our next destination.  After packing our stuff, it was off to another boat ride to an inhabited Cabugao Gamay Island which had a very long, treeless sandbar with beige sand.  We arrived by 1 PM and were greeted by a native selling to us a sea turtle secured by a rope tied around a notch at the rear of its shell.  What a sorry sight.  Poor fellow.  We refused his offer.

After the usual photo shoot for posterity, it was back to our boat for the return trip.  We were back at the resort by 2 PM.  Our island hopping tour was the highlight of our trip to Balbagon and the Gigantes Islands.  Too bad, all good things must come to pass.  The next day, we all left the island early in the morning for the boat trip back to Estancia and the long and tiring land trip to Iloilo City where we had lunch and took the last flight back to Manila, arriving there by 5 PM.

Balbagon Island: Coral Cay Resort (Carles, Iloilo)

Coral Cay Resort in Balbagon Island

The Gigantes Islands, located off northeast Panay in Carles (Iloilo), first came into prominence long before Boracay became a byword  in the tourism industry.  In the 1970s and 80s, its luxurious Sicogon Island Club was one of the first beach resort hotels in the country to achieve international recognition. Its happy days ended when the resort closed down in 1989.  There is more to the Gigantes than just Sicogon as it still has 100 small, rugged, idyllic and fascinating islands, most with white sand beaches, plus hills covered with spectacular first and second growth virgin forests, hidden coves, and many massive wind-carved and steep rock formations containing many deep, cathedral-like granite and marble caves. It also has rich marine life and simple fishing villages inhabited by 300 families.   My wife Grace’s outfit for many years now, E. Ganzon Inc., owned and developed a resort called Coral Cay Resort on Balbagon Island.  We decided to give it a visit after Christmas Day.

Villa Lily Beach Resort in Estancia

I, together with Grace, 11 year old Jandy and 7 year old Cheska left on the early morning Philippine Airlines flight to Iloilo City.  Joining us were Atty. Jose Salazar, his wife and kids and Grace’s fellow E.G.I Properties employees Mr. Disney Sevilla, Ms. Marivic Santiago, Ms. Carol Reyes and Ms. Rhoda Evora.  At the airport, we were picked up by a company van that would take us on a 135.6-km.  (3.5-hr.) long-haul drive to Villa Lily Beach Resort in Estancia, jump-off point to more than 20 of the islands of the Gigantes including Balbagon Island.    

Arrival at Balbagon Island

Upon arrival at the hilltop resort, we waited 30 mins. for the arrival of company boat that would bring us, together with other guests, to the island. The 8 nautical mile long boat trip took about an hour, passing by the large Gigantes islands of Binulangan and Calagnaan as well as the smaller islands of Tabugon, Tulunan-an and Ojastras before reaching the relatively flat, fish-shaped island of Balbagon.  As there was no pier on Balbagon, we alighted a la MacArthur, getting our feet wet before reaching dry land.

The 42-hectare, 1.5-km. long Balbagon Island is located near Gigante Sur Island and is a 20-min. boat ride from the island’s Brgy. Lantangan. Upon our arrival here, we were billeted in one of Coral Cay Resort’s 10 airconditioned cottages. Each cottage, with its bamboo-cladded interior walls and exterior walls cladded with split coconut logs, has its own tiled bathroom and verandah.  This  Class “A” resort also has 25 fan-cooled cottages with bath and a coffee shop/restaurant.

A Balbagon sunset

On our first night on the island, a torch-lit dinner was served al fresco under the stars along its dazzling white sand beach lined with prickly aroma trees. Seafood, consisting of crabs, shrimps and fish, was the “standard” cuisine and was mostly eaten by many in the kamayan style.  The next two days at the resort were packed with stress-free fun: swimming, sunbathing, shell picking, eating, camaraderie, videoke, waiting for the beautiful sunset  or simply just relaxing by the beach and reading a good book.  No work, TV, telephones, pollution, noise and traffic jams. Our 12th wedding anniversary on the 28th (Ninos Inocentes) was spent quietly in much the same way.  Disney and I circumnavigated the island’s 3 km. long shoreline in about 30 mins., passing by a rocky shore where sea birds roost as well as the nearby barangay.  We also walked along the exposed reef at low tide. Along the way, we discovered a beached basket sponge which we brought back to the resort.

Exploring Dimakya Island and its Environs

View of Isla Walang Lang-aw from Eagle’s Nest

The next day, I made an early morning, lung-busting hike, with many rest stops, along a trekking trail to the island’s highest point called Eagle’s Nest.  Along the way, I was on the lookout for wild boar (baboy damo) and wild chickens which, the resort staff said, hid in the woods. 

The resort as seen from my vantage point at Eagle’s Nest

Upon reaching the top, I got a panoramic eagle’s view of the surrounding islands including nearby Isla Walang Lang-aw (Island Without Trees).  A treehouse and a viewdeck is located here.  For a brief moment I felt like Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe.  After about an hour, I retraced my way back down to again be part of Swiss Family Robinson. 

After lunch, we, together with other guests, booked ourselves on an island-hopping tour (US$20 per person).  Our boat ride took us past numerous islands with thickly-vegetated, sea-and-wind-sculpted limestone cliffs and white sand beaches.   We stopped over on 3 of these islands (Tapadyan Island, Liatui Island and Isla Walang Lang-aw) were Tellie and I went swimming and snorkeling and did some trick photography.

Trick photography at Isla Walang Lang-aw

Back at the resort, we, as well as the other guests, were treated to another boat ride, this time a sunset cruise on board the resort’s 55-ft. long trimaran (with its all-convenient toilet).  We sat at the spacious front area, sipping drinks as we awaited the sun’s setting .  We weren’t disappointed as the sun set on the horizon, amidst a clear, cloudless night sky.

On board the trimaran
Sunset at paradise

Upon our return from our sunset cruise, we returned to our cottage to freshen up and were served dinner by candlelight, albeit in a different setting: by the beach.  The restaurant’s tables and food were set up along the beach and, while dining, we could hear the sound of the waves hitting the shore.

Dinner along the beach

Club Paradise (Coron, Palawan)

Club Paradise Resort

Upon our arrival on the island, we were offered welcome drinks and  billeted in one of the resort’s rustic non-airconditioned, beachfront cottages.  Made of rattan, bamboo and nipa, it had double beds (plus an extra one for me), a marble bath and a veranda with a bamboo sala set and an enticing  hammock for relaxing.  Our luggage, though, didn’t arrive with our flight as it was bumped off to make way for the bulky dive equipment of some foreign tourists.  We thus had to take a late lunch with just the clothes on our back.  No swimming or snorkeling the rest of the day.  Our luggage arrived late in the afternoon.  My irritation was somewhat diminished by dinnertime.   Crispy lechon (roasted pig) was served at the clubhouse and we didn’t seem to have many rivals as the seemingly health-conscious foreign guests avoided it like the plague (they preferred the seafood). And to cap it all, dessert consisted of some of the sweetest mangoes I have ever tasted.

Our cottage

The exclusive, Class “AAA” Club Paradise Resort, opened in 1986, was expanded in 1990 and now has 26 non-airconditioned  cottages with bath (9 de luxe, 17 standard), 14 airconditioned family cottages and 20 airconditioned apartment-type rooms.  It has a shimmering 700-m. long, powdery white sand beach, a magnificent and colorful coral reef (including large colorful giant clams) and crystal-clear, turquoise water.  It also has a saltwater swimming pool and a spacious clubhouse with a 120-pax, al fresco restaurant (Kanog), 2 bars (Dugong and Jungle Bar), lounge with indoor sport area (pingpong, billiards, darts and board games), video/videoke room, cable TV room, boutique shop, beauty parlor, 24-hour clinic and mini-library.  

Tellie relaxing at our hammock

There is also a jacuzzi, children’s playground, tennis court and a well-equipped dive center.  The resort also offers dive and dive courses,  waterskis, sit-in kayaks, wakeboards, ringo tubes, windsurfing, Hobie Cat sailing, banana boats and snorkeling as well as island hopping, bottom and troll fishing trips, Coron town and island trips and Calauit Island Wildlife Sanctuary “Safari” tours.  It can accommodate about 150 guests at one time.

Lounging along the island’s white sand beach

Club Paradise: Dimakya Island, Coron 5316, Palawan.  Mobile number: (0918) 912-7106.

Day Tour of Puerto Galera (Mindoro Oriental)

The next day, we were again off, to another excursion, this time to Puerto Galera itself.  We again took a jeepney from the town proper and, once outside the city, the others, including me, again went up the jeepney’s luggage rack.  However, we had to always be on the lookout for approaching trees, ducking to avoid being thrown off the roof.  About 15 kms. out, we again passed the previously visited Tamaraw Falls.  The road to Puerto Galera zigzags most of the way and the scenery – thick forests, mountains planted with rows of calamansi trees, deep ravines – made for a thrilling and scenic ride. 

We first dropped off at Muelle Pier where RO-RO (Roll On Roll Off) ships and motorized outrigger boats from Batangas City dock.

White Beach

At the town, we had the choice of at least 13 superb connected beaches that have been developed for tourism within 7 kms. or so of the town. About 6 kms. from the poblacion, we dropped off at the broad 1-km. long White Beach which is immensely popular with tourists.  The water, however, gets very deep a few meters from the shore.

Trick photography along Tamaraw Beach

From White Beach, we hiked to the less developed Tamaraw Beach where many go for seclusion or peace and quiet.  Again, we had this beach to ourselves.  From Tamaraw Beach, we retraced our way back to White Beach where we boarded a jeepney back to Calapan.  Back at home, Rainy, Lulu, Liezl and Erwin boarded the 6:30 PM boat back to Batangas City.  Jandy, Ronnie and I stayed behind for another night, leaving the next day on the 10 AM boat.  We arrived in Batangas City by 12:45, and boarded a Manila-bound bus.  We arrived in Manila by 4:30 PM.

Pulong Laki (Calapan, Mindoro Oriental)

The next day, All Saints Day, Jing again packed us some lunch (including beer) for our excursion to Pulong Laki (Big Island), one of the 3 Baco Islets, the others being Pulong Munti (Little Island) and Pulong Gitna (Middle Island).  All have white sand beaches.  We espied these beautiful islands during the ferry crossing from Batangas City to Calapan.  Ronnie also brought along his fishing rod.

On our way

Jing also chartered a boat very early in the morning for our use as, if there are no charters, their owners usually leave early in the morning to catch fish for a living.  From Ronnie’s home, we walked towards the nearby beach where our motorized outrigger boat and the boatmen where waiting for us.  Once on board, we were soon on our way.  The trip was smooth, usual for the morning and, after about an hour, we made landfall on the island.

The island’s coarse sand beach

The island had a broad, coarse sand beach, with vegetation and shade some distance away.  This didn’t matter much to us as we savored our first dip in a Mindoro Oriental beach.  From the beach, we also had a panoramic view of a couple of islands.  We were the only excursionists on the island that day.  I guess that most Calapenos were visiting their dead while most local and foreign tourists were in Puerto Galera.  We had this beach to ourselves.  

Doing some trick photography

Ronnie went fishing  and sunbathing while the rest went swimming or shell hunting.  Ronnie caught a couple of small fish that day which he cooked.  By mid afternoon, we all left the island, upon the boatman’s suggestion,  to avoid the high, late afternoon waves.  Back on the mainland, we again had supper at the house of Ronnie and Jing’s aunt.    

Coral Island – Koh Larn (Pattaya, Thailand)

After an early breakfast at the hotel, we prepared for a change of pace as we were scheduled to do an island tour, with lunch, of Koh Larn (translated as “Coral Island”).  Located about 7-8 kms. off the coast of Pattaya Beach, Koh Larn is about 4 kms. long and 2 kms. wide.  It has 2 villages (Ban Ko Lan and Ban Krok Makhan)  and a number of white sand beaches (Tonglang Beach, Tien Beach, Samae Beach, Naon Beach, Na Ban Beach, Ta Waen Beach, etc.) with clear, blue waters, mostly on the western side.  Koh Larn is part of a cluster of 3 islands called the Near Islands (the other 2 are Koh Sak and Koh Krok).

On Our Way to Koh Larn

From the Bali Hai Pier, we all boarded a cruiser for the 45-50 min. trip, across the Gulf of Thailand, to the hilly island.  Within sight of the crescent-shaped Ta Waen Beach (the most frequented beach), we all transferred to a glass-bottom boat so that we could view the marine life and offshore coral garden.

Glass-Bottom Boat Ride

Upon landing, we were assigned to a long picnic shed with other guests. As the beach was very inviting, the sun was out and the skies were clear, we all changed into our swimming attire.  The sand here was definitely much cleaner (and whiter) than in Pattaya Beach.

Koh Larn (Coral Island) – Ta Waen Beach

Salve and Tellie tried jetskiing while I donned  mask and snorkel and explored the island’s coral garden.  Come noontime, we returned to our picnic hut were a seafood lunch was arrayed before us. This we feasted on with gusto.  After lunch, we all went back to our boat for the return trip back to the mainland. Once on shore, we returned to the hotel, checked out and, by 4:30 PM, boarded our bus for the return trip to Bangkok.  Back in the city, we had supper at a MacDonald’s outlet along Sukhumvit Rd., then returned to our hotel.

Boracay Here We Come! (Malay, Aklan)

After breakfast at Dad’s ancestral home in Malay, we boarded the L-200 and were driven, along 6 kms. of dirt road, to the makeshift jetty port at Brgy. Caticlan.  Here, we boarded a big outrigger boat for Boracay Island.  Our 15-min. pumpboat ride to the island was smooth all the way and soon the crystal blue waters turned sparklingly clear as we approached the island’s famous White Beach.  It was just about noontime and the palm-fringed beach’s dazzlingly white sand was practically deserted and enchanting.

On our way

Our boat docked at Boat Station 2, actually just an open beach point without piers where boats land.  All passengers, including us, have to alight the boat via a narrow gangplank then wade a short distance through the shallow water to the beach.  Others, however, hired brawny porters to carry them to shore on their shoulders.  From the beach, we walked a short distance to a narrow alley.  From the alley entrance, we walked a further 100 m. to Lion’s Den Resort on our left.

This rustic resort, owned and managed by Lowell A. Talamisan, an apo (grandnephew) of my father-in-law and a nephew of my wife Grace, is conveniently located midway between the beach and Main Road.  Here, we stayed at one of the resort’s quaint and cozy nipa and bamboo cottages with private bath.  Our cottage also had a verandah with a nice hammock slung at the posts.

Jandy and his lola relaxing at the verandah

Boracay Island then was without electricity and our cottage was lit at night with gas lanterns.  Other high-end resorts were powered by generators.  This didn’t matter to us then, since food and accommodation were inexpensive and the people were friendly. Sometimes we would dine on grilled blue marlin at the resort or dine out at the restaurant of the nearby Red Coconut Resort.

White Beach circa 1990

The most exhilarating portion of our 3-day stay on the island was  the  feel of the sand of White Beach, snow white and fine as sifted confectionary sugar, top-grade cake flour or baby powder.   It was so white you can get a total suntan  due to the  sun’s  reflection on the sand.  The  aquamarine  water was shallow and clear and the sunset was always magnificent.

Sand, sea and sky at Boracay

Up north along White Beach, across Willy’s Beach Resort, is Willy’s Rock, the familiar and frequently photographed landmark that dominates the seascape.  This large, castle-like natural boulder rises 7 m. (23 ft.) from the sand.

Posing by the much photographed Willy’s Rock

 

Repulse Bay and Tin Hau Temple (Hong Kong)

Traveling along the main road between Aberdeen and Stanley, we could hardly believed that we were in a highly urbanized city such as Hong Kong as, along the way, we espied the resort-like setting of the wide, crescent-shaped beach of peaceful Repulse Bay at the southern part of Hong Kong Island.  The bay, once a haven for pirates intent on plundering foreign merchant ships trading with China, was so named after the British fleet repulsed the pirates in 1841.

Repulse Bay

Repulse Bay

Here, at the eastern end of the beach, we made a stopover at Tin Hau Temple, one of the oldest in Hong Kong and one of over 70 Tin Hau Temples throughout the colony.

Posing at the base of the statue of Tin Hau

Posing at the base of the statue of Tin Hau

This brightly-colored Taoist shrine has a pavilion, a small pier area and  two huge, more than 10 m. high statues – one for Tin Hau (the Goddess of the Sea) and the other for Kwun Yam (Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy).  Both goddesses hold a prominent place in traditional Chinese legends.

Posing in front of the statue of Kwan Yam

Posing in front of the statue of Kwun Yam

It also has a Chinese-style garden, leading down to the beach, and the Longevity Bridge, a little bridge with an inscription that says “Each time you cross this bridge, your life will be prolonged 3 days – Lau Hon-Wah.”

Posing in front of the Kwun Yam Shrine and Longevity Bridge

Posing in front of the Kwun Yam Shrine and Longevity Bridge