Category Archives: Beaches

Return to the Hundred Islands (Alaminos City, Pangasinan)

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View of Islands from View Deck

The last time I’ve been to the Hundred Islands in Alaminos City, Pangasinan was way back March of 2005, Holy Week with son Jandy and 2 lady friends, and we only got to explore 3 of its islands, camping overnight at Marta Island. I considered this a poor batting average considering that there are 127 of these granite and scrub-covered islands and islets, a number of them having white sand beaches.  Again it was Holy Week and this time I, together with Jandy and daughter Cheska, found ourselves in Pangasinan, staying at El Puerto Marina Resort and Spa at the provincial capital town of Lingayen.  The resort offered day tours to the islands and we decided, especially Cheska who was a first-timer to these islands, to join the tour.  Our group included Fil-American Ms. Katrina Nogoy and Malaysian-American Ms. Janet Jun Siew Loh, both visiting school teachers from Japan.  Our guide was resort employee Mr. Viramel “Ram” Velasco. 

Lucap Wharf

The trip, via a van driven by Mr. Nixon Fernando, to Brgy. Lucap, take-off point to the islands, took all of 1 hour. Again, it being a long holiday, the wharf and every island with a white sand beach was packed with tourists.  Although I brought a 5-pax tent with me to Lingayen, camping on an island was out of the question.  However, we decided to explore beyond the normal tourist boat route which only included the partially developed Children, Governor’s and Quezon Islands, this time including the other outlying but interesting islands, paying a hefty PhP800 to do so.  While waiting for our boat, I made a short visit to Lucap’s Marine Museum which has a collection of corals and other marine life.  This 1,844-hectare national park, declared as such on January 18, 1940 through Proclamation No. 667, is believed to be the second largest marine reservation in the world with 2,000 species of marine life.

Lucap Wharf Marine Museum

The whole park can be readily covered, even by a slow banca, in half a day.  Most of the islands we passed are small (the smallest being less than 20 sq. m.), heavily-undercut at the base and have an elevation of 20 m. .  Many do not have trees to shade you from the sun and do not carry a name.  Some that do carry names are fancifully named after luminaries in the country (Marcos Island, Romulo Island, Quezon Island, etc.) while others are named after plants and animals that they resemble (Mushroom Island, Turtle Island, etc.).  An interesting photo opportunity was Cathedral Island, so named after its cathedral-like, fruit bat-inhabited cave with domed rock formations.  

Cathedral Island and Cave

Our first stop was Governor’s Island.  The island had white sand beaches on both sides but lolling around at the packed beaches wasn’t yet in our agenda.  Instead, all five of us decided to climb up the top of the island which, unlike 5 years ago, now had paved stairs and roped railings leading to a concrete view deck with railing (and packed with tourists).  What hasn’t changed, though, was the magnificent and panoramic view it afforded of this mini-archipelago said to have been formed from the tears of a prehistoric lovelorn giant who pined for his lost lady love.   The island also has a not-too-deep, sea-sculpted cave.

Marcos Island

Our next and longest stopover was Marcos Island.  Marked by mermaid statues, the island consists of 3 mounds, a 70-foot drop-off, a nice white sand beach (difficult to land on when the waves are high) and a helipad on the smaller dome.   From the beach, a well-marked trail, on the left, leads to the top of the island where its chief attraction is the bat-inhabited Imelda Cave which can be peered down from a blowhole above. Here, the adventurous and brave could climb down a wooden stairs to a ledge where they can cliff dive to the sea below.    

Waiting in line for our cliff dive
All five of us took a shot at it but the visibly scared Katrina and Jandy (although he knows how to swim) donned life vests just in case.  Upon hitting its suitably deep waters, we swam or clung to the cave walls, out to the cave mouth and back to the white sand beach.  Although Janet and Katrina only tried it once, we liked it so much that we went back for second shots (Cheska tried it thrice).  With our adrenaline rush sated, we finally settled down to lolling around in the rock-shaded portion of its beach. 
Cheska taking the plunge

It was now noontime and, after this exciting but adrenalin-sapping exercise, we were visibly hungry, our previous meal being an early breakfast at the resort.  We got back to our boat and proceeded to Quezon Island (at 25 hectares, the largest in this mini-archipelago).  This most frequented island was truly packed to rafters with tourists as it had, aside from its white sand beach, a pavilion for guests, stores (where one could dine) and toilet and bathing facilities (for a fee).  Again, it being a holiday, prices of goods bordered on the cutthroat but, hungry as we were, still ordered cooked Spam (at PhP250, twice that in Manila) plus rice (at PhP25 per cup) washed down with half-liter bottles of water (at PhP60).  The island also has a nursery for giant clams (locally called taklobo), a demonstration site for 300 clams dispersed here and at Children’s and Governor’s Islands, and all monitored on a regular basis. These, as well as the corals and mangroves, were rehabilitated through a program called “Marine Biodiversity Enhancement,”  a project of the Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA), the University of the Philippines Marine Science Institute (UPMSI) and the Marine Environment and Resources Foundation (MERF). 

Cuenco Island and its Cave
Backed at our boat, we passed by, but did not land, at the similarly packed Children’s Island which has a walkway and a calm, nearly wave-free shoreline suitable for children (hence its name). Cuenco Island, also called Quinco Island, was our last stopover.  This interesting island has two white sand beaches, on two sides, and a huge cave that passes through its center. 

Holy Week in Pangasinan

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El Puerto Marina Beach Resort & Spa

Come Holy Week, I got an invitation from El Puerto Marina Beach Resort and Spa owners Roland and Flordeliza Versoza to stay at their resort in Lingayen and, not having any other activity planned for the holidays, decided to accept their offer.

A group of flagellants

A penitent carrying a wooden cross

It was also to be my first visit to Pangasinan’s capital.  For company, I brought along my children Jandy and Cheska and we all left on Wednesday afternoon, the eve of the Holy Week rush.  As such, my 227-km. trip, normally a 4.5-hour drive, took all of 6 hrs., it being a holiday.  We arrived at the resort by 8 PM.

Check out “Resort Review: El Puerto Marina Resort and Spa“

Our room for the night

We were welcome by Flor who billeted us at one of the resort’s rustic airconditioned native-style bungalows with bath and cable TV.  Resting on stilts, these bungalows are cantilevered over a fishpond and reached via an S-shaped wooden footbridge. Quite famished, we dined at its equally rustic pavilion before calling it a night.

Cheska at the Hundred Islands

The next day, we joined a group which included Fil-American Katrina Nogoy and Malaysian-American Janet Jun Siew Loh, both teachers in Japan, for a tour of the Hundred Islands  (Cheska was a first-timer to these islands) in Alaminos City. On our way back to the resort, we dropped by the Cathedral of the Epiphany of our Lord in Lingayen.

Check out “Return to the Hundred Islands” and the “Cathedral of the Epiphany of Our Lord” 

Picnic sheds along Lingayen Beach. We pitched our tent at the second hut from the right

On our second night at the resort, I brought out my 5-pax Coleman tent and  went camping along this adjoining, gently-sloping, cool, quiet gray sand beach. A bonfire was set up that night by the resort.

One of the resort’s resident arapaimas

The next day, we watched 2 big South American arapaimas being fed at the resort’s  koi pond. Later, Katrina and Janet joined us as we toured Lingayen, visiting the Pangasinan Provincial Capitol, the Sison Cultural and Heritage Center and the War Memorial Museum.

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Cathedral of the Epiphany of Our Lord

Provincial Capitol

The author (left) with Cheska and Jandy at War Memorial Museum

Sison Cultural and Heritage Center

El Puerto Marina Beach Resort and Spa: Don Martin Domingo St., Pangapisan North, Lingayen, Pangasinan.  Tel: (075) 542-5328.  Fax: (075) 542-2285.  Mobile: (0917) 867-3908 and 3906. Manila tel: (632) 852-3404, 986-3404 and 775-6789.  Fax: (632) 824-7384.   E-mail: inquiries@elpuertomarina.com.  Website: www.elpuertomarina-pangasinan.com.

Calicoan Island (Guiuan, Eastern Samar)

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Talisay Beach

One of the 2 reasons why Jandy and I dropped by Guiuan (the other was the town itself) was to visit Calicoan Island.  Called the “Sleeping Beauty of Eastern Samar,” this island is blessed with long stretches of unspoiled white sand beaches; limestone cliffs (tempting for rock climbers); alien abstract rock formations (great for camera buffs); dive destinations (Pearl Island, Binabasalan Island and Baul Island); crystal clear blue waters; numerous, cathedral-like caves for spelunkers (the large Buro Cave is accessible during low tide) with stalactites along the seashore; 20 isolated and romantic coves; 6 huge and unexplored saltwater lagoons and nature trails inside tropical virgin forests (50% of the area).

Causeway to the island

Come morning, after a hearty Filipino breakfast at the Calicoan Surf Camp’s restaurant, we opted to burn calories by exploring the island on foot (for me still the best way), bringing along resort staffer Mr. Marcial Orocay as guide.  From the resort, we cut across the 3-km. width of the island, to the western side which faces the calm waters of Leyte Gulf, its 8-km. long beach ideal for swimming, snorkeling, picnics and watching magnificent sunsets.   The forest along the way is said to be home to mischievous monkeys, monitor lizards and colorful birds.  Though we didn’t get to see any up close, we did get to see a snake crossing our trail.

Sulangan Beach

Skirting the western coast, we visited Sulangan Beach, the habitat of the world-famous and rare Golden Cowrie (Conus gloriamaris) shell. These shells were being sold (at a whopping PhP1,500 per piece) at souvenir shops at nearby  St. Anthony of Padua Church, also a notable pilgrimage site.  With its schools of multi-colored fish, Sulangan Beach is also an ideal site for scuba diving.

The original 3149 Base flagpole

Caliocan Island, a low coralline island in Brgy. Ngolos, 23 kms. from the town was, during World War II, the site of the U.S. Navy’s 3149 Base.  The base’s original flagpole still stands.  The late U.S. Pres. John F. Kennedy, a PT boat commander during the war, was also stationed here.

Guiuan Airport runway

The runway of the former U.S. Navy airbase, located on the eastern edge of the town, was once one of the biggest U.S. bases in the Pacific and was also used actively until the Korean War.  Its 60 m. wide and 1.9 km. long runway was built, during the liberation, by U.S. Army engineering battalions in December 1944.  Here, the B-26 Superfortress bomber Enola Gay, which dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima, Japan (August 6, 1945), was launched.  Disused for some time after its turnover to the Philippines, it is now undergoing a PhP142 million rehabilitation (its runway, now with an overlay of asphalt, is now 2.134 kms. long) and will opened this October as a feeder airport for chartered or regular flights.  Its opening would be heaven-sent as it would make Guiuan easily accessible by plane (cutting its dependence on Tacloban City’s airport), thus supporting the commercial and tourism industry in the region, most especially Calicoan Island, an upcoming island resort which boasts of miles of white sand beaches as well as powerful swells rolling in from the Pacific over the 10,000 m. Philippine Deep, making it a surfer’s paradise. A PhP38 million water system that would supply the island resorts’ operational requirement is also nearing completion. All these aim to promote Guiuan as the next eco-tourism hub in the country, a place that offers visitors a lot when it comes to cultural and historical heritage sites, natural beauty plus the warmth and hospitality offered by its 38,694 Guiuananons.

Isla Malipano (Island Garden City of Samal, Davao del Norte)

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On our second day at Pearl Farm Resort, Grace, Jandy, Cheska, my in-laws and I decided to crossed over (a 2.5-min. boat ride) to the secluded, 7-hectare Isla Malipano and check out its facilities.  We were dropped off at the 200-pax, octagonal and multi-functional Malipano Gazebo at the other end of the island, a perfect alternative for weddings, theme parties and other occasions.  My in-laws decided to stay here while we went around the island.

Check out “Resort Review: Pearl Farm Resort” and “Pearl Farm Resort“

Malipano Gazebo

Also a part of the resort, Isla Malipano has a white sand beach, an offshore reef plus 7 lavishly-decorated, 3-storey private luxury villas, each with a wide veranda with breathtaking views of the Davao Gulf. Small barbecue parties can be held at the veranda.

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The island’s sparkingly white sand beach

The villas are composed of 3 octagonal structures with reception areas, guest suites and dining area, all around a cantilevered deck. Their roof design is patterned after the salakot (traditional Filipino hat).  Four of the villas are perched on stilts directly above the sea while the 3 other villas are built over rock outcrops on the beach.

The Malipano Villas

Five villas have 3 bedrooms (with 2 queen-size beds and 2 single beds or 3 queen-size beds) while 2 villas have 4 bedrooms (with 3 queen-size beds and 2 single beds or 4 queen-size beds).

Veranda with a great view

All villas are airconditioned and equipped with minibar, coffee and tea making facilities, safety deposit box (at the master’s bedroom), cable TV, hair dryers, spacious living room and toilet and bath (the master’s bedroom has a bathtub).  Butler service is available for food orders and other guest assistance while a standby speedboat is available to transport guests to the restaurant and other resort facilities.

One of the villa’s master bedrooms

The island is also ideal for scuba diving as the wrecks of two World War II Japanese freighters are located 60 m. away and in front of the resort.  The 40-m. (132-ft.) long Wreck I is located just a few meters from the resort’s Samal houses, in 35 m. (115 ft.) of water.  Here, you can find groupers, jacks, moray eels and others.  For advanced divers, an open bay hatch allows safe penetration.   It is also recommended for underwater photography.  The slightly smaller, 35-m. (115-ft.) long Wreck II rests on its side at a shallower dept of 28 m. (98 ft.) of water.

Pearl Farm Resort: Kaputian District, Island Garden City of Samal, Davao del Norte.  Tel: (082) 221-9970 to 73.  Fax: (082) 221-9979.  E-mail: pearlfarmresort@fuegohotels.com.  Website: www.pearlfarmresort.com.  Davao Citysales office: G/F, Anflocar Corporate Center, Damosa Bldg., Lanang.  Tel: (082) 235-0876 and 234-0601.  Fax: (082) 235-0873.  E-mail: dvosm@pearlfarmresort.com.  Manila sales office: 15/F, 1504 Corporate Center, 139 Valero St., Salcedo Village, Makati City.  Tel: (632) 750-1896 and 98.  Fax. (632) 750-1894. E-mail: mlasm@pearlfarmresort.com.

Dicasalarin Cove (San Luis, Aurora)

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After lunch, the Sen. Angara invited us to explore the compound and climb the hill.  We were particularly impressed by and enjoyed exploring the compound’s Ifugao Village, a mini-complex of quaint Ifugao-inspired cottages.  

View of Dicasalarin Cove from Lighthouse Hill

Then, with some guides, we decided to explored the cove itself, its stunning beauty as rough as the continually crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean.  Its beauty remains so as there are no resorts and visitor facilities along the beach.  Instead, scattered along this cove are unique rock formations, each with a unique charm of its own.

Unique rock formations at Dicasalarin Cove
Exploring the cove

On the right side of a peninsula we discovered a sea-sculpted cave and did some swimming inside.  This short cave, seemingly accessible only during low tide, is well-lighted as it is open on both sides of the mountain.

Exploring the sea-sculpted cave

Nearby is Birhen Island, a rock formation sculpted by natural erosion to resemble the figure of the Blessed Virgin praying amidst the pounding waves. On our way back, we then climbed a steep imposing hill, the site of the senator’s future lighthouse.

The route up Lighthouse Hill
The gang’s all here

Steps, with ropes tied to wood posts as railings, were cut along the hill to provide access.  The 15-20 min. climb was exhausting but the rewards were great when we reached top as we had a panoramic and breathtaking, 360 degree view of the cove, the Sierra Madre Mountains, sheer cliffs and the pounding waves of the Pacific Ocean.  The way way down was easier but harder on the heels.  Back on the beach, we gave our tired bodies a break with a brief but welcome frolic at the sea.

Relaxing along the beach after a tiring trek

Returning to the resthouse, we met up with Ms. Alexandra “Alex” Angara, the London-educated daughter of the senator, and her boyfriend Joseph “Joe” Cole and her pet dog Huckleberry.  Alex invited us to stay the night and we were really tempted to accept the offer.

With Alex Angara (third from left)

However, we only planned our visit as a day trip and didn’t bring enough clothes.  Besides, we had to leave very early in the morning for our long-haul return trip to Manila.    Thus, it was with some difficulty that we declined the invitation.

The beauty that is Dicasalarin Cove

After washing up, Alex graciously accompanied us to the beach where our speedboat was waiting to bring us back to Cemento.   Truly, our visit to Dicasalarin Cove was the piece de resistance to our 4-day visit to the beautiful province of Aurora.

How to Get There: As the cove is privately-owned, you have to secure a gate pass (PhP300/pax) at Bahia de Baler Garden Resort before heading for the cove.  The cove is open for guests at the resort.  By land, you can get there in 30 mins. by car via a steep (too steep for a tricycle) and narrow  road with scenic views of the cove.  By sea, you can charter a motorized boat at Sabang.  The trip takes 45 mins.

An Audience with Sen. Edgardo J. Angara (San Luis, Aurora)

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Once settled in at Carlito’s Inn, I got a call in the evening from Sen. Edgardo J. Angara’s secretary approving my request, made at the Provincial Tourism Office booth at Ermita Hill, for us to visit his resthouse at Dicasalarin Cove in nearby San Luis town.  Come morning and after breakfast at the inn, we proceeded to the Fish Port at Brgy. Cemento, our pickup point, and parked the Toyota Revo there.  From hereon, it was all sea travel as the road to the cove, previously attempted by us the previous day, was still unpassable.  Normally, scheduled boats (available up to 2 PM only) transport visitors to Dicasalarin Cove from Sabang in about 45 mins. and we were expecting to be picked up by an outrigger boat.  You can only imagine our surprise when the senator’s speedboat was, instead, waiting for us at the pier.  Thus, we got there in style and in less than half the time, all of us thoroughly enjoying this welcome and unexpected treat.

Traveling in style and speed

Upon nearing the cove, the boat slowly inched its way to a delta where a river met the sea.  The cove lies where the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains meet the Pacific Ocean.  Upon alighting, it was just a short hike from the secluded white sand beach to the resthouse’s simple log gateway.  Picnic huts and wooden tables, ideal for al fresco dining and all shaded from the hot sun by trees, plus interconnected log cottages, all covered with thatched roofing, are found all over the compound. We were billeted in one of the cottages where we freshened up for our meeting with the senator.

The Ifugao Village

Our gracious host, fresh from his working tour around his property, soon arrived and joined us all at an open-air cabana where a delicious seafood lunch was prepared.  The senator, who also happened to be U.P. president during my college days in the late 1970’s and early 1980s, narrated his plans for the place, providing a land route by clearing and paving the road we previously attempted, creating an Artists Village and also building a lighthouse atop the hill.

With Sen. Edgardo Angara

Camping and Surfing at Sabang Beach (Baler, Aurora)

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Cheska on her surfboard

Baler Tourism Coordinator Riza del Rosario sadly informed us that there wasn’t any accommodation available whatsoever for us, at least for this day.  I wasn’t surprised as it was the holidays and Baler was packed with tourists.  Anticipating this, I brought along my new Coleman 5-pax tent which I received last Christmas.  It measures 3 m. by 3 m. and has a 1.83 m. head clearance, convenient if you need to stand up while dressing.  From the town proper, I first drove to the Hanging Bridge at Brgy. Zabali where my 4 companions gamely crossed to the other side.  Motion sickness, caused by the swaying bridge, made me stop midway during my crossing and forced me to turn back.  After this adrenalin-filled crossing, we returned to the Revo and drove on to the gray sand Sabang Beach in Brgy. Sabang.  Most of the accommodations in Baler are located along this beach but, since all were fully booked, I just rented a picnic hut and pitched my tent on the grassy ground beside it.     

The gray sand Sabang Beach

Long before the movie Baler, the town was known as one of the country’s top 5 surfing areas. The waters of the Pacific formed strong, sharp break waves that provide an exhilarating high among experienced surfers. The best waves come in from October to March when the northeast monsoon blows down from China but surfing waves are present all year round, even during our visit.  Glassy right and left waves occur in the early mornings. They are not usually big, except during typhoons.   Thus, Sabang Beach is a good site for beginners and novice surfers.  Jandy and Cheska, as well as Lulu, all beginners, opted to take some surfing lessons (PhP350/pax for 1 hr.) while Vi, an avid photographer, just took pictures.  I stayed behind to watch the tent and our belongings. 

Fish catch being hauled in
Sabang Beach has three surfing sites: Cobra Reef, Charlie’s Point and Secret Spot.  Charlie’s Point, located north of Sabang Beach, within walking distance from the town proper, was where the surfing scene of Francis Ford Cuppola‘s 1979 Apocalypse Now was filmed.  It is known for its medium-quality, right and left breakwaves on sand and gravel bottom. The waves are best from December to January. Secret Spot is located at the mouth of the Cemento River. Further north of Sabang Beach is the newly discovered surfing spot called Lindy’s Point, a 15-min. hike from Bay’s Inn.

Carabao Island: The Next Boracay? (San Jose, Romblon)

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White sand beach


I have always been a frequent visitor to Boracay, my father-in-law being a native of Malay town which has jurisdiction over the island.  During this latest visit, for a change of scenery, my son Jandy and I opted to visit the nearby 28.9 sq. km. Carabao Island, touted as the “Next Boracay.”  This  island, part of Romblon province, was so named because of its carabao shape but is commonly called, by its natives, as Hambil.  It is 3 times bigger than Boracay and can be viewed from Boracay’s Mt. Luho View Deck. Relatively-unknown until lately, the prices of real estate in San Jose, Carabao Island’s only town, which is virtually occupied and owned by its original settlers, is also much cheaper compared to Boracay and foreign investors from the European Union, Taiwan, South Korea and Japan have shown interest in relocating to San Jose after they discovered the island’s white sand beaches and crystal-clear waters said to rival, if not equal, Boracay’s.  Reportedly, investors were also discouraged to find taxes on Boracay Island to be “quite high.” 

Carabao Island seen from Boracay


I wanted to visit this still pristine island before the onset of continuous and uncontrolled Boracay-like development spills over to the island.   This is inevitable as plans are now underway for San Jose to be the site of the Romblon Special Economic Zone and that  work on a modern PhP5 billion international airport with a 4,000 m. long runway, to accommodate large-bodied Airbuses and similar aircraft, is expected to begin.  A boat to the island leaves, once daily, around 7:30 AM, from a landing near the Caticlan Jetty Port.  My co-passengers included a French couple, with their two cute little daughters, and Lanas barangay captain Ms. Emerita Sombilon whom I chatted with along the way.  The boat trip took about an hour, passing by Boracay’s rapidly developing east coast and Puka Beach on the north, the closest part of Boracay to Hambil. We again touched ground on Hambil’s jetty around 9 AM and decided, together with the Frenchman, to walk along the beach to the first resort that came our way: Ivy Vine Beach Resort.  We were welcomed by amiable British couple Graham and Pamela “Pam” Hill who were managing the resort in the absence of owners.   We instantly fell in love with the place and decided to stay, billeting ourselves in two of its 7 fan-cooled rooms with bath.  The resort also has a 3-4 pax dorm.  

Graham Hill of Ivy Vine Resort


After lunch (ordered in advance) at the resort’s restaurant, Jandy and I decided to walk long  the coast as far as our legs would allow, surveying the wonderful and bucolic scenery and the existing tourism infrastructure such as Nipa Hauz and the currently closed Carabao Beach Resort.  There are no jeepneys or tricycles for getting to and from the island’s 5 barangays as the narrow, single-track and partially concrete (but mostly rough) road only allows for motorcycles and mountain bikes.  We bought cool, refreshing drinks and halo-halo at small stores along the road.  

A bucolic scene


Come dusk, I decide to forego going to the town proper which was celebrating its fiesta (the Feast of St. Joseph, the town’s namesake).  Instead, we opted to have a quiet dinner at the resort and chat with Graham, Pam and the guests. It was also an opportunity to view its beautiful, uncluttered sunset which I found to be much better than Boracay’s which is usually obstructed with numerous boats and swimmers.
   

A beautiful Carabao Island sunset

Unlike many foreigners who fell in love with and stayed in Boracay, Graham and Pam fell for Carabao Island.  Graham, a divemaster, manages the dive shop, the only one, so far, on the island.  Pam helps manage the resort.  Both left high paying but mentally draining and stressful jobs to be in this piece of Shangri-la.  However, old habits still remain as they installed a satellite disk, to watch their favorite English football games, and internet (so far, the only one on the island) to keep in touch with relatives, friends and the latest developments in England.  Still, if things go their way, they plan to make the island their permanent home.  I can see why.    

Poctoy White Sand Beach (Torrijos, Marinduque)

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After lunch, we got dressed up, boarded our taxi and proceeded another 30 kms./1.5 hours to the town of Torrijos.  Upon entering the town, we made a short stopover at the nearby Pulang Lupa Battle Shrine, site of a Filipino victory during the Philippine-American War.

Vener and Jowel at the Pulang Lupa Shrine

Upon reaching Brgy. Poctoy, we dropped off at the 1-km. long, fine white sand Poctoy White Sand Beach.  Said to be Marinduque’s best, this postcard-pretty beach, with the dormant, 871-m. high Mt. Malindig as a backdrop, was surprisingly deserted it being a Good Friday. The only other people we saw roaming the beach were 2 missionaries from the Latter Day Saints.   It seems people here follow the long running rule of no bathing on Good Friday.

The deserted Poctoy White Beach
Bonding with Jandy and Cheska

From the beach, we hiked north to a nearby two-room homestay rented out to visiting tourists by Hans Peter Ulrich, a German national, and his Filipina wife Marilou.  The homestay was then being rented by 7 vacationing production staff (6 women and a man) of GMA 7’s Starstruck program.

Marilou’s Homestay

The homestay’s 2 rooms were both fan-cooled, had a wide bed with mosquito netting, a bathroom with running water and a common porch and cooking station with a working stove where they can do their own cooking.  As there is no refrigerator, they have to go to the market for provisions.  Once this need arises, they just call or text, via mobile phone, a tricycle driver (recommended by Hans) who can bring them there.

The homestay’s resident dog joins in
Starstruck in Marinduque

Fronting the cottage is a small, coconut palm-fringed private cove of sparkling white sand and the Good Friday rule did not stop us from frolicking the inviting waters of this beautiful beachfront.  Its reef drop-off, located 200 to 300 m. offshore, is ideal for snorkeling.  What more can you ask? Given the opportunity in the future, I would gladly return to this idyllic beach.

Cheska with Mr. Ulrich
Prior to our departure we made a short stopover at the residence of Hans Peter and Marilou Ulrich.

Marilou’s Homestay: Brgy. Poctoy, Torrijos, Marinduque.  Mobile number: (0921) 751-6930 and (0919) 485-0531.

A Tour Around Marinduque: Boac to Buenavista

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On our second day in Marinduque (Good Friday), we hired  a Toyota Tamaraw FX, owned and driven by Mr. Herman Matre, for PhP1,200, to tour us around the island.  For food, we brought along packed lunches prepared for us by Ms. Laura Lahm, the owner of Barbarosa Restaurant (said to be the best place to eat in Marinduque).  We can actually drive around the island in 3 hours, as the main highway connects all 6 towns, but we opted to do this in a more leisurely pace.
 
Gaspar Island
Baltazar Island
Melchor Island

Traveling along the road, we espied, from afar, a  number of beautiful islands.  The 11-hectare, aptly named Elephant Island, has sheer cliffs, a half-kilometer long white sand beach and a soon-to-open, world-class resort (now Bellaroca Island Resort & Spa).  The Tres Reyes Islands consists of Baltazar (also called Pangikol Island), Gaspar (also called Manya Island) and Melchor (also called Polo Island) islands, all named after the Biblical Three Kings.  Uninhabited Baltazar and Melchor Islands have steep cliffs and underwater caves.  Gaspar Island has a small village, clear blue-green waters and a short, lovely white coral beach which offers fine snorkeling and diving.  In 1980, the wreck of a 15th century Chinese junk was discovered, in 38 m. of water, near Brgy. Pingan about 100 m. north of the island.  A large number of ceramic pieces were recovered including Swatow porcelain, stoneware jars and some iron skillets. All three Tres Reyes islands are ideal dive sites, having several good caves and walls and gorgeous sea fans.

Malbog Sulfur Springs

Our first stopover would be Malbog Sufur Spring (formerly known as Susana Hot Springs), located a few kilometers inland, at the foot of 1,157-m. (3,797-ft.) high, rarely climbed Mt. Malindig(with its 3 unique peaks), the highest mountain in the province.   Located 3 kms. from Buenavista and volcanic in origin, the spring has 5 main pools with hot therapeutic waters heated by Mt. Malindig and said to cure certain skin ailments, a welcome relief for us.  After paying a small entrance fee, we all took a dip in one of its tepid pools.  After this refreshing break, we all later partook of our packed lunches.