Aguinaldo Shrine (Kawit, Cavite)

After bringing my son Jandy to school, I decided, on a whim, to do some sightseeing outside Metro Manila, motoring all the way, via the Cavite Coastal Rd., to Kawit in Cavite where I plan to visit the Aguinaldo Shrine, the birthplace of Philippine Independence.  Upon arrival at the shrine, I met up with Mr. Alvin Alcid, the shrine curator, who toured me around the mansion.

Aguinaldo Shrine

The stately, 6-storey (including a mezzanine) Aguinaldo’s house started out in 1845 as a wood and nipa thatch structure before being rebuilt in 1849 as a bahay na bato with a stonewalled ground floor and a wooden second floor with banks of capiz windows.  Emilio Aguinaldo was born (according to his mother) here on March 22, 1869 (March 26 according to his partida de baptismo or parish records).

The Independence Balcony

The mansion underwent another facelift from 1919 to 1921.  To commemorate the “original” Independence Day (albeit on a personal basis), Aguinaldo added the elaborate, cannon-capped “Independence Balcony” to replace the bank of capiz windows at the living room. The Philippine sun, stars and foliate patterns decorate its eaves.  The balcony is now used during June 12 Independence Day celebrations.

The watchtower

Before his death on February 6, 1964, at the venerable age of 94 (our oldest president), Aguinaldo, in a fitting, final gesture, turned over his home and a portion of the gardens to the government on June 12, 1963 to “perpetuate the spirit of the Philippine Revolution of 1896.”   Four months later, on June 18, 1964, the mansion was declared a National Shrine and a National Treasure, by virtue of Republic Act No. 4039, and placed under the management of the National Historical Institute (now National Historical Commission of the Philippines).

Aguinaldo’s bedroom

The architecturally-inclined former president also added a family wing of children’s bedrooms; a gabled, 3-storey, spired watchtower (Aguinaldo’s favorite spot for viewing, on a clear day, the skyline of Manila) on top of the mansion (designed to match a 200-year old tamarind tree, since felled by lightning), and below it, a bedroom called the Tower Suite, his favorite retreat in his later years.

Today, the entire house uniquely blends Rococo, Baroque and Gothic architectural styles characteristic of the Spanish and American colonial period.  The entire ground floor, formerly the zaguan or grain storage area, was converted into a revolutionary-theme museum.  On exhibit are Aguinaldo’s personal memorabilia and uniforms, dioramas of the Battle of Zapote River, the Battle of Binakayan and Aguinaldo’s oath-taking as president, an exhibit of prominent Cavite revolutionary heroes, historical relics and weapons.    There is also a chess set and a bowling alley.

Aguinaldo had a very inventive and secretive mind. The antique, mostly Philippine hardwood furniture done by skilled native woodcarvers, some designed by the general himself, includes an armoire, inlaid ivory love seats, four-poster beds, China cabinets and Vienna rocking chairs.  Some chairs and cabinets have secret compartments to hide important documents or even weapons.  Ingenious sliding wall panels, along the narrow stairways to the upper rooms and in the bedrooms, are used as secret storage areas large enough for two people to hide.

The Dining Room

There are also camouflaged secret passages made just for the general.  The one leading to his second floor bedroom is concealed by a wall of shelves at the main stair landing.   Below the ground is a stone air raid shelter concealed under the kitchen’s wooden dining table top.

The decorated dining room ceiling

On the second floor are the general’s bedroom, the grand hall, conference room, dining room and kitchen and the azotea.  The rectangular grand hall is a visual showcase of Aguinaldo’s nationalistic fervor.  On the walls and pillars are recurring flag patterns done in polished wooden mosaic. The floor, a waxed-and-polished jigsaw puzzle of flags, is a mosaic of wooden trapezoids.  The decorated ceiling, which commemorates the events of August 30, 1896 (the start of the revolution), features Inang Pilipinas (Mother Philippines), an eight-rayed sun representing the first 8 provinces to rise in revolt, and the furled flags and dove of the pre-World War II League of Nations (symbolic of Aguinaldo’s aspiration for Philippine recognition in the League of Nations).

Corridor leading to children’s bedrooms

At the end of the hall are the historic windows and the added “Independence Balcony.”  The dining room ceiling is a gallery of soaring symbols featuring a bas-relief map of the country with Cavite (site of his glorious victories) painted red to symbolize war.   Overlooking the grand hall, like an alcove or balcony, is the mezzanine library.   A corridor leads to the mansion’s eastern wing where Aguinaldo’s daughters used to live with their families.

Children’s bedrooms

Another flight of stairs lead me to the Ambassador’s Room, the former study of Ambassador Jose Melencio, Aguinaldo’s son-in-law.  Above it, through a narrow stairway, is Aguinaldo’s Tower Suite.  In it are a brass bed and a large roll-top escritorio.  To reach the spired tower, the general’s favorite retreat, I had to climb a foot-wide, almost ladder-like stair.  Here, I had a bird’s eye view of the town and Aguinaldo Park (Liwasang Emilio Aguinaldo).

Check out “Liwasang Emilio Aguinaldo“

Aguinaldo Park
View of town from Tower Suite

At the garden behind the house is Aguinaldo’s marble tomb, facing the river whose waters often served as a secret escape route.

Aguinaldo’s marble tomb
Aguinaldo Shrine: E. Aguinaldo Highway, Kawit, Cavite. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8 AM-4 PM.

Jose P. Laurel Museum and Memorial Library (Tanauan City, Batangas)

From the Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist, Jandy and I moved on to the nearby Jose P. Laurel Museum and Library, the home of Jose P. Laurel, the president of the Japanese-sponsored Second Philippine Republic (October 14, 1943-August 17, 1945).  Laurel was born here on March 9, 1891.  The Laurels, being a prominent family, built their residence just walking distance from the cathedral and town hall and 100 m.  from the national road. 

Jose P. Laurel Museum and Memorial Library

Built in 1880, this ancestral house was restored by Jose P. Laurel’s son Mariano and daughter-in-law Alicia on March 9, 1964 and was donated to the national government to serve as a public library.  It also houses Jose P. Laurel’s memorabilia.  The 2-storey house has a ground floor of stone and an upper level of wood with wooden posts, sliding capiz windows and a floor of brightly polished wooden planks. 

The dining room
The living room
Laurel’s office

It was a holiday (Labor Day) during the time of our visit but the caretaker gladly allowed us free rein to tour the areas of the house – the living room (with its prominent bust of Laurel), dining room (with its 8-seater dining table and mounted photo of Laurel delivering a speech) and Laurel’s bedroom (with its antique 4-poster bed) and office (with Laurel’s desk and chair).    Beside an oil painting of Laurel is a wooden harp.  Outside the house is an antique church bell.

Laurel’s bedroom
A wooden harp
The old church bell

Jose P. Laurel Museum and Memorial Library: A. Mabini Ave, Poblacion, Tanauan City, Batangas. Open daily, 8 AM-5 PM.

Silliman University (Dumaguete City, Negros Oriental)

A big portion of Dumaguete City’s progress was said to have been due to the presence of the Protestant-run Silliman University, founded as the Silliman Institute (an elementary school) by American Presbyterian missionary Dr. David Sutherland Hibbard and his wife Laura, through a grant, on August 28, 1901, by Dr. Horace Brinsmade Silliman.  It was later converted into a college in 1910 and into a university on March 1938.  This 61-hectare university, with its 13 colleges and schools, is the first university outside Manila and is also the first and only Protestant university in the Philippines.  It is dotted with many old and shady acacia trees.

Silliman University campus

The university is another showcase of American-era architecture.   Silliman Hall, built along Silliman Ave. in the Southern U.S. architectural style, is the oldest building within the campus.  It was inaugurated on 30 November 1903 and was restored in 2000.  The iron posts supporting the metal ceiling of the south wing was salvaged out of construction materials from a New York theater.  The S. U. Ethnographic Museum, at the building’s second floor, houses an extensive collection of artifacts and archaeological findings, 2,000-year old Sung and Ming porcelain, voodoo paraphernalia from Siquijor and rare shells such as Glory of the Sea (Conus gloriamaris).

Silliman Hall

Other old buildings within the campus include Guy Hall (completed in 1918), Oriental Hall (built in 1921), Channon Hall (built in 1923) and the Schiede Chapel, the former Mission Hospital Chapel (built in 1937).  Hibbard Hall, started in 1930 and completed in 1949, was the former library building (since 1932).  Built on a more modern note is the 900-person Henry Luce Auditorium, named after Claire Isabel McGill Luce, the founder and publisher of Time-Life magazines.  It was built at a cost of PhP5 million from January 2, 1973 to October 6, 1974.  The Chapel of the Evangel, along Hibbard Ave., was completed in 1957 and was designed by world-famous Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei.  The S.U. Main Library and Media Center, built at a cost of US$ 1.275 million through a grant from USAID and inaugurated in 1979, is reputed to have the biggest collection (more than 100,000 volumes) of books and publications in Asia.  The 188-bed S.U. Medical Center Hospital, along Aldecoa Drive, was built at a cost of PhP5.5 million and was inaugurated on 28 August 1976.

Silliman University: Real St., Dumaguete City, Negros Oriental.

Negros Museum (Bacolod City, Negros Occidental)

Negros Museum

Upon completion of our GPS mapping and prior to leaving Bacolod City, I made a short visit to the nearby Negros Museum and interviewed Ms. Chinette A. Gaston, the museum administrator, about the museum’s history and exhibits as well as reminisce about my grandfather Jose C. Locsin.  This former Agricultural Building, similar in style with the Capitol, was built from 1938 to 1941 (the advent of World War II) on the former site of the 1930s Negros Occidental Carnival and Exposition.  During the war, it was used as an office of the Japanese.  In 1986, it was renovated with a grant from the Canadian Government and, on May 2003, became the new Negros Museum (it was formerly housed in the Capitol).    

Negros Museum lobby

After my interview with Ms. Gaston, she gave me free rein to view the museum’s exhibits.  This museum, run by the Negros Cultural Foundation, a non-profit, non-stock and non-government organization, is committed to preserving the cultural and historical heritage of the province. It is unique in that, aside from collecting antiquities, it also collects stories about the people of Negros.  On display, all with interesting stories to tell, are a 40-ft. long batil (long boat), a life-size replica of an Iron Dinosaur (steam locomotive) donated by the Victorias Milling Co., a real sugar laboratory using traditional equipment (donated by the La Carlota Sugar Central), a gallery of portraits of past provincial governors (including my grandfather who was governor from October 16, 1925 to October 15, 1928), 9 huge paintings by Bacolod artists, depicting life in the pre-Hispanic period, and those by Charlie Co, which explores the economic and social ascent of Chinese in Negros (from hotelier Antonio Chan to National Artist and Arch. Leandro V. Locsin).  Of particular interest for toy lovers is the JGM Gallery of International Folk Art and Toys, opened in 1998.   On display here toys and folk arts collected, over a period of 30 years, by Mara Montelibano (daughter of Jose Garcia Montelibano after whom the gallery was named) from the Philippines and 65 other countries around the world.

Negros Museum: Gatuslao cor. Lacson St., Bacolod City, Negros Occidental.  Open Tuesdays to Saturdays, 10 AM to 6 PM.  Guided tours at 10 to 11 AM and 3:30 to 5:30 PM.  Tel: (034) 434-5552.  Fax: (034) 433-4764.

Museo Iloilo (Iloilo City)

After my walking tour of the city, I was picked up by Charlie and we proceeded to the Provincial Capitol where we visited the Provincial Tourism Office.  Prior to lunch, we dropped by Museo Iloilo, behind the capitol.  Referred to as the city’s “Window to the East,” the museum showcases Iloilo’s rich cultural heritage.  The first government-sponsored museum outside Metro Manila, this museum was designed by Ilonggo architect Sergio Penasales and is now managed by the Iloilo Cultural Research Foundation, Inc..

Museo Iloilo

Its well-displayed collection includes Stone Age tools, gold-leaf burial masks, ornamented teeth, seashell jewelry and coffins from pre-Hispanic graves; photos; pottery from China, Annam and Siam; relics from the revolution and World War II; ethnic swords, knives and spears of the Mondo tribe (descendants of Pre-Malay Indonesian) of Panay; Carbon 14-dated fossils; and modern art by Ilonggo artists and craftsmen.  A permanent exhibit features an Ati family.

Museo Iloilo interior

Its Spanish ecclesiastical art collection includes religious statuary (including a statue of a female saint holding her lopped off breast); church vestments; a tableau of the Last Supper; and a Santo Entierro (bier of a dead Christ).

China, Siam and Annam Pottery
Santo Entierro
Photos of old Iloilo churches
Ethnic weapons
Ancient coffins and pottery
Weaving loom

A section is devoted to articles recovered by divers from the wreck of a nineteenth century British steamer lying in 7 m. of water on the Oton Shoals, off Guimaras Island.  Exhibited as the “Bottle Wreck,” its glass hoard includes bottles of port wine and Glasgow beer, as well as Victorian china.

Museo Iloilo: Bonifacio Drive, Iloilo City, Iloilo. Open Mondays to Saturdays (except holidays), 8-11 AM and 2-5 PM.  Admission: PhP20/pax (PhP15 for students).

Mystical Mt. Makiling (Los Banos, Laguna)

It was field trip time for my daughter Cheska’s Colegio San Agustin class and Lakbay Kalikasan, Southeast Asia’s first and premier outbound education outfitter, was tasked to organize it.    Mt. Makiling was the selected destination.  Upon invitation by Mr. Ramon Jocson, Lakbay’s Corps Director, I decided to tag along.

Mt. Makiling
This 1,090-m. high, 3-peaked mountain, located 65 kms. southeast of Manila, is, owing to its natural history, the most biologically well-known of Philippine mountain and a favorite for field trips.  The slopes of the mountain form a 4,244-hectare national park covering portions of Bay, Calamba City and Los Baños; all in Laguna, and Sto. Tomas in Batangas.  These places depend on the watershed of the mountain for their domestic water requirements and irrigation while Los Baños’ and Calamba’s resorts and tourism industries depend on it for their hot springs.

 

Most field trips, including this one, enter via U.P. Los Baños (UPLB) which is halfway up the summit.  The mountain is also accessible from Alaminos (Laguna) and, for the extreme adventurer, from the more difficult and barely passable (due to the thick jungle) Sto. Tomas route, on the other side of the mountain.   Makiling is said to be the legendary home of the beautiful local goddess, Mariang Makiling.

According to folklore, she was the beautiful young daughter of two deities: Dayang Makiling and Gat Panahon.  Half goddess, half spirit of the air, she was tall, svelte, sweet, with big black tantalizing eyes, long, black, abundant hair reaching to her ankles, pure brown skin, and enchanting smile and a captivating, melodic voice.  She was born of the rays of the moon and lived in the beautiful mountain, roaming the forest and protecting its wild boars and other animals.

Visible to, and loved and respected by the townspeople, she had a generous heart, scattering golden ginger in the yards of every house in her domain and never turning down a request for help or assistance.  She rewarded hunters, who, at her request, spared the animals.

Her kindness, sympathy and acts of benevolence were often forgotten and disregarded by the people.  To punish them, she denied permission to pick fruits in the forest and prohibited hunting of wild animals. For those who disobeyed, she would cause the sky to grow dark and the heavy rain to fall.  To hunters, she assumes a frightful form and sends them to their death.  She fell in love with a mortal man who proposed to her but backed out before their wedding day and later married a mortal woman.  Despondent, she disappeared into the forest and was never seen again.  Her presence, however, is still felt as she continues to watch over the mountain’s natural bounty.

Makiling is one of the few mountains in Luzon that still has some primary forests.  It originally had lowland dipterocarp forests up to the 600 m. mark but the western and southern flanks are now denuded due to kaingin (slash and burn) farming and logging while the eastern slopes are covered with coconut, banana, coffee and other crops.  However, exotic lowland type dipterocarp forest trees and orchards have been introduced for reforestation at its lower slope, transforming the forest below 300 m. into a “parang” type of vegetation.  Above 900 m. are some montane forest and, at the summit, a dwarf mossy forest.  Makiling is a dormant volcanic massif but remnants of its north wall crater no longer exist.  However, heat still escapes from it in the form of mud springs and hot sulphur springs.       Makiling is also a field laboratory for many environmental and biological researches in UPLB.   Aside from being a favorite for school field trips, Makiling is also a popular camping and hiking area for Boys and Girls Scouts, as well as other camping enthusiasts.  The 10th World Boy Scout Jamboree was held on the mountain from June 17 to 26, 1959 and camping is still done at the BSP Wood Badge Area.

Camping, however, wasn’t in the field trip agenda.  They were here to learn. This outdoor classroom showcases the rich biodiversity of the country, being home to 2,038 species of vascular flora (85% of Philippine flora spread out in 949 genera, 19 sub-species and 167 varieties), 24 species of mammals (10 families and 19 genera) and 21 species of amphibians (4 families and 8 genera), 10 of which are endemic. Bryoflora includes giant ferns, 34 species of mosses and 42 species of liverworts.   About 60% of all known fungi have also been found here.     Popular with bird watchers, the mountain is home to 163 species of birds (spread out in 110 genera and 16 families).

Museum of Natural History
A repository for all these biological specimens is the Museum of Natural History, located immediately to the left of the archway going into the College of Forestry and Natural Resources. Housed in a former student dormitory of UPLB, here students are awed by its collection of more than 200,000 Philippine plants, animals, microorganisms and other bioda.  Most of the late Prof. Dioscoro Rabor’s priceless collections are also housed here. Its exhibits feature, among others, the Philippine eagle, tamaraw, tarsier; snails in Mt. Makiling and Laguna de Bay; Philippine plants, forests, shells; Philippine cobras, marine turtles and mammals; and a Philippine map made of 4,012 locusts and lahar from Mt. Pinatubo. A visit here is the piece de resistance for any Makiling field trip.

Magsingal Cultural Museum (Magsingal, Ilocos Sur)

We finally left Vigan City by 1 PM and, 11.2 kms. out of the city, past the towns of San Ildelfonso and Sto. Domingo, we made a short stopover at the the Magsingal Cultural Museum, also called the Museum of Ilocano Culture and Artifacts.  Managed by the National Museum, parts of its displays are housed within the ruins of the town’s former Church of St. William.

The old church was started in 1662 by Fr. Alonso Cortes, finished in 1723, destroyed by earthquake soon after, rebuilt in 1730 and then burned by the rebel forces of Diego Silang.  Only the intact bell tower and part of the ruined walls remain.  On October 1982, it was restored and transformed into a museum housing the private collection of the late Mr. Angel Cortez (former curator of the Magsingal Museum).

It showcases the material culture of Northern Luzon.  The curator’s house across the street displays Neolithic tools, excavated porcelain and earthenware, antique santos, weapons and implements, baskets and headgear and old parish records.

Magsingal Cultural Museum: National Highway, Magsingal, Ilocos Sur. Open daily, 9-11:30 AM and 1:30-4:30 PM.  Visit is by appointment. Admission is free.

National Museum (Vigan City, Ilocos Sur)

It was now  late in the afternoon and I still had time for a visit to the 2-storey, 422-sq. m. National Museum, formerly the Ayala Museum and Library.  This house, built in 1788, was the former birthplace and colonial residence of martyred priest Fr. Jose A. Burgos.  At its ground floor is a Hall of Fame of Ilocano heroes and achievers, dioramas of local historical events (Tobacco Monopoly in 1782, Paoay Church Construction in 1704, Gomburza Execution, Battle of Tirad Pass, etc.), Filipiniana costumes, and Tingguian, looms for abel weaving, farming and fishing implements and Ilocano ethnic arts and crafts (burnay products, etc.).  There are also scaled models of two trading ships.  The first, a pichili trading junk, also called the Shantung junk, is regarded as the oldest type of Chinese sea junk used in fishing and trading.   Its actual length was 150 ft. and it stood 14 ft. high.  The second was that of a Japanese vessel that trade in Luzon from 1596 to 1615.  Around the models are trade ceramics.

National Museum
Upstairs are antique collections and memorabilia of the Burgos family such as Vienna furniture (beds, mirrors, divans, dining chairs, pianos, etc.) plus an old harp, gramophone, old telephones and other period pieces and heirlooms. On the walls are a priceless collection of 14 Esteban Villanueva canvasses. Esteban Villanueva was a businessman and unschooled painter from Vigan who depicted bloody events of the 1807 Basi Revolt in 14 36 by 36-inch frames.  At one time they were owned by Buenaventura Bello, a former president of the Ilocano Historical Association.  Until a few years ago, the paintings remained unrestored but a contemporary artist was commissioned to retouch them.  In spite of this, the painter’s original style is noticeable: details of costume and face, lack of perspective, the composition of the groups, ominous comets and even the little horse.  All were signed “E. Villanueva.”

I made it back to the inn before nightfall, joining Grace and Jandy for a sumptuous dinner of crispy okoy (flaky shrimp cakes) and pansit at the inn’s coffee shop.  Once filled, I finally decided to hit the sack for a well-deserved shuteye.

National Museum: cor. Plaza Singson Encarnacion and Burgos St., Vigan City, Ilocos Sur.       Open Tuesdays to Saturdays, 8:30 to 11:30 AM and 1:30 to 4:30 PM.  Weekend and holidays are by appointment.  Admission: PhP10 per adult and PhP5 for children (12 years and below).

Rizal Shrine (Calamba City, Laguna)

After hearing mass at the Church of St. John the Baptist in Calamba City, Jandy Cheska and I crossed over to visit the Rizal Shrine, the birthplace of our National Hero Jose Rizal.  This bahay na bato, the first in Calamba, took two years for Rizal’s father to build. Now a property of the national government and administered and maintained by the National Historical Institute (NHI), this reproduction of the original Spanish Colonial-style, 2-storey house has a red tile roof, thick stone ground floor walls, doors wide enough for a carriage to enter, wooden upper walls of narraand molave and balustrades and capiz shell windows.  

Rizal Shrine


However, we weren’t allowed to take pictures inside.  Its controversial stairway (questioned by old folks to be slightly misplaced saying it should have been a little closer to the wall), with its circular base, leads to the caida (the banquet hall which served as library to Don Francisco and is in turned connected to the sala(living room) by an ornate doorway.  On both sides of the sala are the bedrooms. The house contains replicas of Rizal’s antique family furniture, household articles, library and Rizal memorabilia. Antique items include a very old coffee grinder, a punka (ceiling fan) and a water filter that purifies water from the well.  In the garden are various Philippine fruit trees, an empty stable with a square-shaped calesaon the side and a bronze statue of Rizal as a child done by Duddley Diaz (unveiled on 19 June 1998). The shrine also has a souvenir shop.

 
 
 
Rizal Shrine: J.P. Rizal St. (formerly Calle Real), Calamba City, Laguna.  Lectures and guiding services can be arranged. Open Tuesdays to Saturdays, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM.  Admission is free.  Tel: (092) 545-2010.  
 
How to Get There: Calamba City is located 55 kms. from Manila and is accessible via the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX).  Take the Calamba Exit.
 

Church of St. Peter the Apostle (Loboc, Bohol)

On my own, I made a short visit to Loboc’s Church of St. Peter the Apostle, listed by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure.  Built in 1602 by Fr. de Torres, it is the second oldest church in Bohol.  The present church was built in 1734. 

Church of St. Peter the Apostle

Inside are remarkable nave paintings done (from May 1926 to July 1927) on the walls and ceiling by three artists (Canuto Avila and son Ricardo, Ray Francia), the biggest number of murals on religious subjects.  The ceiling was retouched in 1995 by Cris Naparota.   It also has a Neo-Gothic pulpit with a late 19th century sounding board (portavoz) and 5 retablos between the transept and sacristy. 

Bell Tower

Outside the church, near the riverbank, is the separate 21-m. high, 4-storey octagonal stone bell tower, built after 1768.   It has 7 bells, the oldest dated 1863 and 2 others dated 1914 and 1937.  The tower also has a large wooden matraca (a cranked noisemaker) dated 1899 and a clock from Altonaga Co., acquired through public subscription and installed in 1893.   The bell tower was almost destroyed during the construction of the unfinished Loay Bridge, a folly of the Marcos era which was supposed to be part of an elevated expressway just across the road.  Timely objection by the Lobocanons prevented its destruction.  The project was discontinued.