Gallery IV – Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of Portraiture (National Museum of Fine Arts, Manila)

Gallery IV – Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of Portraiture, at the second floor of the National Museum of Fine Arts, exhibits more than 30 portraits that showcase the status of the living and memories of the dead. The portraits were the masterpiece of painters coming from two generations – Severino  Flavier Pablo (1805 – 1875), Justiniano Asuncion y Molo (1816 – 1896, a prize student of Damián Domingo in Academia de Dibujo y Pintura), Simon Flores Y de la Rosa (1839 – 1902), Isidro Arceo (1840 – 1900), Hilarion Asuncion y Eloriaga (ca. 1840 – ?), Vicente Villaseñor (1825 – ?) and other unknown artists.

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Gallery entrance

Portraits done by Simon Flores y de la Rosa, the first Filipino to garner a prize from an international exhibition (silver medal in 1876 at the Philadelphia Universal Exposition for his painting La Musica del Pueblo), are highly valued for their outstanding craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Portraits of Domingo Jimenez and Leticia Jimenez, both by an unknown artist (late 19th century, oil on canvas)

He has four works on display at the gallery – Portrait of Monsignor Ignacio Pineda Tambungui (c. 1890, oil on ivory), Portrait of Severina Ocampo de Arroyo (1874, oil on canvas), Portrait of Quintana Castor de Sadie (1874, oil on canvas) and Recuerdo de Patay (Memento Mori of a Child, 1896).

Recuerdo de Patay (Memento Mori of a Child, 1896) by Simon Flores y De la Rosa

The last mentioned is seemingly out of place as it depicts a child serenely lying in a small bed, in his best clothes, adorned with fresh flowers, and the shadow of a smile on his face. During the 19th Century, commissioning paintings like these was a popular way to remember a recently deceased loved one.

Portrait of a Man from Liliw and Portrait of a Man from Liliw, both by Vicente Villasenor (oil on panel)

A number of these portraits were commissioned by Manila-born “Chinese mestizo” merchants and their families.  Right beside each other is the Portrait of Sy Jao (Ignacio Boncan) and the Portrait of the Mother and Son of Sy Jao, both late 19th century, oil on canvas paintings done by an unknown artist. The oil on canvas Portrait of Ming Mong Lo (Jose Molo) was done by Severino Flavier Pablo.

Portrait of Sy Jao (Ignacio Boncan) (late 19th century, oil on canvas)

Portrait of Mother and Son of Sy Jao (late 19th century, oil on canvas)

Also placed side by side with each other are two full body, ca. 1880, oil on canvas portraits of two noted Augustinian Recollects – Mariano Cuartero (22nd Archbishop of Manila, 1847 – 1861) and Jose Ayanguren (25th Bishop of Nueva Segovia, 1875 – 1887), both by unknown artists.

L-R: Portrait of an old Lady with a Scapular (late 19th century, oil on canvas), Portrait of an Old Man in a Black Suit and Portrait of an Old Lady, all by Antonio Purisima.

Aside from the artists, in many cases, the identities of the subjects of the portraits are unknown such as the Portrait of a Mother and Daughter (oil on canvas, late 19th century) by Hilarion Asuncion y Eloriaga; Portrait of a Lady (oil on canvas, late 19th century) attributed to the Asuncion y Molo Brothers; Portrait of Three Ladies (oil on tin sheet, 1894) by an unknown artist; Portraits of Two Students of Ateneo Municipal de Manila From Pasig (oil on canvas, late 19th century) by an unknown artist; Portrait of an Old Lady and Portrait of an Old Lady with a Scapular (late 19th century, oil on canvas), both by Antonio Purisima; Portrait of a Man from Liliw, Portrait of a Woman from Liliw, Portrait of a Woman (1891)) and Portrait of a Matriarch, all oil on panels by Vicente Villasenor.

Portrait of a Woman (1891) and Portrait of a Matriarch, both by Vicente Villasenor (oil on panel)

Seeming out of place in a room full of portraits are two letras y figuras (ca. 1885), both done, with watercolor on Manila paper, by Miguel Anonuevo.  Letras y figuras (Spanish, “letters and figures”), a genre of painting pioneered by José Honorato Lozano during the Spanish colonial period in the Philippines, is an art form distinguished by the depiction of letters of the alphabet using a genre of painting that contoured shapes of human figures, animals, plants, and other objects called Tipos del País popularized by Damián Domingo (1796 – 1834). The letters depicted spell out a phrase or a name, usually that of the patron who commissioned the work, in this case Eusebia Solybar and Miguel Anonuevo himself.

Letras y figuras by Miguel Anonuevo

Gallery IV – Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of Portraiture: Fundacion Santiago Hall, South Wing Galleries, 2/F, National Museum of Fine Arts (NMFA), Padre Burgos Avenue, Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 8527-1215 and (632) 8298-1100.  Email: inquiry@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Website: nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 4PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 14°35′13″N 120°58′52″E.

Gallery III – Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of the Sacred Arts (National Museum of Fine Arts, Manila)

Gallery III- Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of the Sacred Arts

Gallery III – Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of the Sacred Arts, at the third floor of the National Museum of Fine Arts, exhibits the paintings that show images of saints, the Blessed Virgin and the Holy Family. It features polychromes and paintings of early religious images interpreted by local Filipino artists and artisans.

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Gallery entrance

One of the prominent pieces in the collection is La Apoteosis de Sto. Tomas Aquino (1819, oil on panel), an artwork dedicated to the Dominican College of Seville and one of the few works of Damian Domingo (1796 – 1834), the Father of Filipino Painting, that survive today.

La Apoteosis de Sto. Tomas Aquino (Damian Domingo, 1819, oil on panel)

Another notable painting is the Nuestra Senora del Rosario (ca. 1860, oil on linen) of Antonio Malantic y Arceo (1820 – 1885), one of the famous portrait painters in the Philippines.

Nuestra Senora del Rosario (Antonio Malantic y Arceo, 1860, oil on linen)

Simon Flores y de la Rosa (1839 – 1902), the first Filipino to garner a prize from an international exhibition (silver medal in 1876 at the Philadelphia Universal Exposition for his painting La Musica del Pueblo), has two works at the gallery –  El Bautismo de Jesus por San Juan Bautista (late 19th century, oil on canvas) and San Roque (1893, oil on panel).

El Bautismo de Jesus por San Juan Bautista (Simon Flores y de la Rosa, late 19th century, oil on canvas

San Roque (Simon Flores y De la Rosa, 1893, oil on panel)

Faustino Quiotan (1770 – 1825), a Chinese mestizo master from Sta. Cruz District in Manila and one of the first Filipino artists to show emotions in his subjects, has two works on display –  San Isidro Labrador (late 18th or early 19th century, oil on canvas) and San Albino de Angers (late 18th or early 19th century, oil on canvas).

Top left: San Isidro Labrador (Faustino Quiotan, late 18th or early 19th century, oil on canvas). Bottom left: San Albino de Angers (Faustino Quiotan, late 18th or early 19th century, oil on canvas). Right: San Cristobal (Mariano Asuncion y Molo, mid tolate 19th century, oil on canvas)

 

Left San Bonifacio, Obispo y Martir (Juan Arceo, 1830, oil on panel). Top CenterSta. Leogarda de Jesus (Nicolas Luis). Bottom Center San Pedro Apostol (Jose Domingo Gabor, late 19th century, oil on panel).

The other known artists whose works are featured include Jose Domingo y Gabor (son of Damian Domingo, ca. 1790 – 1832), Nicolas Luis, Francisco Domingo y Casa, Hilarion Asuncion y Eloriaga (ca. 1840 – ?), Isidro Arceo (1840 – 1900), Juan Arceo (1795 – 1865), Justiniano Asuncion y Molo (1816 – 1896, a prized pupil of Damian Domingo in Academia de Dibujo y Pintura), Mariano Asuncion y Molo (1802 – 1885, brother of Justiniano), Vicente Villasenor (1825 – ?), Juan Senson (an Angono artist), Castor Resurrecion and Adorable Castro Andrade.

El Transito del Glorioso Patriarca San Jose (Francisco Domingo y Casa, oil on canvas)

Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe (Castor Resurrecion, oil on canvas)

Half of works on display are by unknown artists.  The collection belongs to the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas Collection.

La Coronacion de la Virgen (unknown Leyteno artist, mid 19th century, oil on panel)

La Paloma (La Coronacion de la Virgen) (Vicente Villasenor, oil on panel)

Gallery III – Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of the Sacred Arts: Ramon and Milagros Del Rosario Family Hall, South Wing Galleries, 2/F, National Museum of Fine Arts (NMFA), Padre Burgos Avenue, Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 8527-1215 and (632) 8298-1100.  Email: inquiry@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Website: nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 4PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 14°35′13″N 120°58′52″E.

Visitors shall be limited to 100 per museum per session. Visitors are required to pre-book online at https://reservation.nationalmuseum.gov at least a day before the visit. Confirmation of booking will be sent through email. Group reservations are limited to five (5) persons only.  Walk-in visitors will NOT be accommodated.

Gallery II – Gallery of the Via Crusis of an Unknown Bohol Master (National Museum of Fine Arts, Manila)

Gallery II – Gallery of the Via Crusis of an Unknown Bohol Master

Gallery II – Gallery of the Via Crusis of an Unknown Bohol Master, at the second floor of the National Museum of Fine Arts, features 14 paintings depicting the Stations of the Cross (Via Crusis).

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Gallery entrance

These masterpieces were done by an unknown master from Bohol and the particular church where these paintings originated is also unknown.

Station I (Jesus is Condemned to Death)

Station II (Jesus Carries His Cross).  Check out the Chocolate Hills” in the background

Inscribed with the year 1830, they are among the oldest surviving complete (most were sold individually) series of depictions of the Stations of the Cross in the Philippines.

Station III (Jesus Falls the First Time)

Station IV (Jesus Meets his Mother)

Done on wood panels, they depict the Passion of Christ in great detail in the folk and native style primarily due to the simplistic rendering and flatness of the plane.

Station VI (Veronica Wipes the Face of Jesus)

Station VII (Jesus Falls the Second Time)

Interesting characteristics include the depiction of the distinctive Boholano landscape of conical hills (known in the mid-20th century as the “Chocolate Hills”).

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Station VIII (Jesus Meets the Women of Jerusalem)

Station IX (Jesus Falls the Third Time)

This landscape can be seen in Station II (Jesus Carries His Cross), Station III (Jesus Falls For the First Time), Station IX (Jesus Falls the Third Time), Station X (Jesus is Stripped of his Garments), Station XI (Jesus is Nailed to the Cross) and Station XIV (Jesus is Laid in the Tomb).

Station X (Jesus is Stripped of his Garments)

Station XI (Jesus is Nailed to the Cross)

There are also references to the Medieval practices of portraying damned souls by means of grotesque features such as elongated noses (redolent of the snouts of swine) of those Roman soldiers and other persons who, without  mercy or remorse, contribute to the suffering of Jesus.

Station XII (Jesus Dies on the Cross)

Station XIII (Jesus is Taken Down from the Cross)

These paintings are entirely unique and outstanding in its cultural significance particularly as they are the only such works held in a public collection and kept in perpetual trust for the Filipino people. 

Station XIV (Jesus is Laid in the Tomb)

Gallery II – Via Crusis of an Unknown Bohol Master: Friends for Cultural Concerns of the Philippines, Inc. (FCCP) Hall, 2/F, National Museum of Fine Arts (NMFA), Padre Burgos Avenue, Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 8527-1215 and (632) 8298-1100.  Email: inquiry@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Website: nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 4PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 14°35′13″N 120°58′52″E.

Gallery I – Religious Art from the 17th to 19th Centuries (National Museum of Fine Arts, Manila)

Gallery I – Religious Art from the 17th to 19th Centuries.  In the foreground are nearly life-size wooden statue of an Augustinian monk and St. Dominic.  At the back is the huge, 18th century, Neo-Classical retablo mayor (altar piece) of the Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentino in Dimiao, Bohol, now a National Cultural Treasure

Gallery I: Religious Art from the 17th to 19th Centuries, at the second floor of the National Museum of Fine Arts, features Christian themed art from the 17th-19th centuries that show the faith and devotion of Filipinos to Christianity.

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Gallery entrance

Displayed at the sides of the gallery are a free-standing crucifix, a door of a tabernacle and a Pieta hanging from a wall; carved, free-standing wooden statues of saints or santos (St. John the Evangelist, St. Mary Magdalene, St. Dominic, St. Anne, St. Isidore the Laborer, St. Rita of Cascia,  St. Catherine of Alexandria, St. Roche, St. James Matamoros, etc.), the Christ Child (Santo Nino), angels and the Virgin Mary (La Immaculada Concepcion); and wooden Corinthian pillars, all made by unknown artists.

Hanging on the wall is a door of a tabernacle, a Pieta and an angel. In front is a free-standing crucifix flanked by angels

At the middle of the gallery are two, nearly life-size wooden statues of St. Dominic (San Domingo de Guzman), founder of the Dominican Order, and an Augustinian monk.

Wooden statues of San Isidro Labrador, San Roque and San Domingo de Guzman

A notable exhibit here, near one end of the hall, is the huge 18th century, Neo-Classical retablo mayor (altar piece) of the St. Nicholas of Tolentino Church in Dimiao in Bohol which was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines on July 18, 2011.

Wooden statues of Santo Ninos (Christ Child)

Gallery I – Religious Art from the 17th to 19th Centuries: Luis I. Ablaza Hall, 2/F, National Museum of Fine Arts (NMFA), Padre Burgos Avenue, Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 8527-1215 and (632) 8298-1100.  Email: inquiry@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Website: nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 4PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 14°35′13″N 120°58′52″E.

Gallery XIV: Pillars of Philippine Modernism (National Museum of Fine Arts, Manila)

Gallery XIV (Pillars of Philippine Modernism)

Gallery XIV: Pillars of Philippine Modernism, a permanent exhibit at the third floor of the National Museum of Fine Arts, features Philippine modern art from the 1920s-1970s.

 

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On display are works of five of the revolutionary Thirteen Moderns  (a group of artists that broke away from the Conservatives led by Fernando Amorsolo) – Victorio C. Edades (1895-1985), Diosdado Lorenzo (1906-1984), Galo B. Ocampo (1913-1985), Anita Magsaysay-Ho (1914-2012) and Ricarte Puruganan (1912-1998).

The Sketch (Victorio Edades, 1928, oil on canvas)

National Artist for Painting (1976) Victorio Candido Edades, the “Father” of Modern Philippine Art,” was an artist influenced deeply by his studies and exposure to the style in the United States.

Modern Maria Clara (Victorio C. Edades, oil on canvas)

He presented figures in muddy earth colors (yellow ochres and raw sienna accented by bold black contours), his subjects were distorted figures (those whose proportions defy classical measure) and his brush strokes were agitated and harsh as reflected in his oils on canvas – The Sketch (1928) and Modern Maria Clara (1958).

An Old Woman with Mortar (Diosdado M. Lorenzo, 1937, oil on board)

Nueva Ecija (San Isidro)-born Diosdado Magno Lorenzo, who had already spearheaded Philippine Modernism even before its emergence became mainstream in Philippine arts, painted in different media and genres.

Barrio Scene (Diosdado Lorenzo)

A Barrio Girl (Diosdado M. Lorenzo, 1946, oil on board)

The imagery of his work consisted, for the most part, of the countryside of San Isidro – its guileless, uncorrupted people; its magnificent trees and its pristine environment.

Gumamela (Diosdado M. Lorenzo, 1975, oil on canvas)

Landscape (Diosdado M. Lorenzo, 1966, oil on board)

This imagery can be seen in five of his paintings displayed in the gallery – Barrio Scene (1970, oil on masonite board), An Old Woman with Mortar (1937, oil on board), Landscape (1966, oil on board) Gumamela (1975, oil on canvas) and A Barrio Girl (1946, oil on board).

Portrait of Lucio R. Ildefonso, Alejandra Tagle Ildefonso and their Children (Diosdado M. Lorenzo, 1936, oil on canvas)

Also on display is his commissioned oil on canvas painting of Portrait of Lucio R. Ildefonso, Alejandra Tagle Ildefonso and their Children (1936).

Portrait of Enrico Costamagna (Diosdado M. Lorenzo, ca. 1930, plaster of paris)

Self Portrait (Diosdado M. Lorenzo, ca. 1930, plaster of paris)

Displayed together are two plaster of paris busts, titled Kiss,” sculpted by the artist himself during a sojourn in Italy in the early 1930s – Self Portrait (when Lorenzo was a young man in his 20s) and Portrait of Emilio Costamagna (a portrait of the father of Mario Costamagna, Lorenzo’s friend and fellow student at the Academy of San Luca in Italy).

Self Portrait (Galo B. Ocampo, 1982, oil on canvas)

Pampanga (Santa Rita)-born Galo B. Ocampo was also known for rejecting academic tradition and embracing Western modernism. Stylistically, his paintings, often blending Christian themes with references to Filipino indigeneity, showcase the influence of Cubism, Surrealism, and Expressionism on his works.

Portrait of a New York Lady (Galo B. Ocampo, 1947, oil on canvas)

On display oil on canvas paintings of his Self Portrait (1982) and Portrait of a New York Lady (1947), gifted by Ocampo’s family to the nation in 2013.

The Black Nazarene of Quiapo (Ricarte M. Puruganan)

Ilocano (Dingras, Ilocos Norte) painter Ricarte Madamba Puruganan, using bold strokes of thick impasto for which he was known, preferred fusing Philippine folk art themes with Modernist techniques, painting scenes closest to his heart – the rustic, the indigenous; quaint seascapes and evocative agricultural. On display are his The Black Nazarene of Quiapo (1937, oil on canvas) and Graveyard Scene (undated, oil on canvas)

Graveyard Scene (Ricarte M. Puruganan, undated, oil on canvas)

Filipina painter Anita Magsaysay-Ho, the only female member of the “Thirteen Moderns,” specialized in Social Realism and post-Cubism in regard to women in Filipino culture. Her work appeals to Modernism by utilizing more abstract designs and styles rather than realistic approaches.  The Portrait of Marylisde Jesus Sevilla (1958, oil on canvas), the first work of the artist to be included in the national collection, was generously gifted, by the sitter, to the nation in 2013.

Portrait of Marylisde Jesus Sevilla (Anita Magsaysay Ho, 1958, oil on canvas)

Also represented in this gallery are painters of the Neo-Realist school, the second wave of Philippine Modernists.  This post-war group of artists advocated a style that is representational in form but more open to various degrees of abstraction.  They include Manuel Antonio Rodriguez Sr. (1912-2017), Romeo V. Tabuena (1921-2015), and Nena L. Saguil (1914-1994).

Carabaos in Pink (Romeo V. Tabuena, 1957, oil on board)

Romeo Villalba Tabuena, whose works primarily features figures pieced together from muted, monochromatic shapes, is best known for depictions, in oil acrylic and watercolor media, of Philippine rural landscapes (farms, carabaos, nipa huts, etc.) such as Nipa Huts on Stilts (1952, oil on canvas) and Carabaos in Pink (1957, oil on board).

Nipa Huts on Stilts (Romeo V. Tabuena, 1952, oil on canvas)

Simplicia “Nena” Laconico Saguil, considered a pioneer of Filipino abstract art, is most known for her cosmic, organic, and spiritual abstract works depicting internal landscapes of feeling and imagination. Saguil created impressionistic and naturalistic figurative works, including landscapes and still lifes.  On display at the gallery is A Filipina Maiden (oil on canvas)

A Filipina Maiden (Nena Saguil, oil on canvas)

Filipino printmaker Manuel Antonio Rodriguez Sr., also known by his nickname Mang Maning, was dubbed as the “Father of Philippine Printmaking.”  The first Filipino to have exhibited his prints in international biennial shows, Rodriguez had a unique and unparalleled knack for abstract and figurative forms.

Returning From the Fields (Manuel Rodriguez, Sr., 1949, oil on canvas)

The graphic quality of his oil on canvas works (Returning From the Fields, 1949; and Feeding Time, 1967), borrows from his forte of printmaking.

Feeding Time (Manuel Antonio Rodriguez, Sr., 1967, oil on canvas)

Another Modernist painter featured in the gallery is Spanish-born (b. 1929, Reus, Catalonia) painter Juvenal Sanso, one of the foremost masters of Modernism in Philippine Art.

Blue Floral (Juvenal Sanso, 1965, acrylic on canvas)

The graphic, textured works of Juvenal Sanso, best known for his surreal landscapes, are full of lush plant life and tropical skies painted in a bright palette culled from his idyllic childhood in the Philippines as seen in his Blue Floral (1965, acrylic on canvas).

Man with a Hoe (Juvenal Sanso, 1950, oil on masonite)

His unusual Man with a Hoe (1950, oil on masonite), painted after World War II, features a naked man holding a hoe with his head downwards.  It may be interpreted to depict the emotions and the traumatic experiences of the artist.  Another of his works featured is Muscle Bound (1960, pen and ink on paper).

Muscle Bound (Juvenal Sanso, 1960, pen and ink on paper)

Seemingly out of place in the gallery is Nestor Garcia Leynes (1922-2016), regarded as one of the leaders of the “Magic Realist” movement of the Philippines.  Typically, he painted idyllic scenes of Philippine rural life, much like his mentor Fernando Amorsolo, ranging from women sifting rice to harvest scenes, depicting romantic scenes in painstaking detail. However, his oil on canvas piece A Peasant’s Funeral (1948) is not representative of his work.

A Peasant’s Funeral (Nestor G. Leynes, 1948, oil on canvas)

Gallery XIV – Pillars of Philippine Modernism: 3/F, National Museum of Fine Arts (NMFA), Padre Burgos Avenue, Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 8527-1215 and (632) 8298-1100.  Email: inquiry@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Website: nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 4PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 14°35′13″N 120°58′52″E.

National Museum of Fine Arts (Manila)

The National Museum of Fine Arts (FilipinoPambansang Museo ng Sining), an art museum formerly known as the National Art Gallery, is  housed in the Old Legislative Building and is located on  across from the National Museum of Anthropology (former Department of Finance Building) in the eastern side of Rizal Park. Owned and operated by the National Museum of the Philippines, the museum was founded in 1998 and houses a collection of paintings and sculptures by classical Filipino artists such as Juan LunaFélix Resurrección Hidalgo and Guillermo Tolentino.

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The author at the National Museum of Fine Arts

The National Fine Arts Collection (NFAC), the growing collection of visual arts and archives, constitutes a large part of our country’s artistic patrimony and featuring the achievements and aspirations of Filipino visual artists. It is composed of a significant number of paintings, sculptures, icons, sketches, mixed media, painted photographs, prints, drawings, studies, installation art, sculptures, documents, memorabilia and photographs by Filipino visual artists who significantly impacted the nation’s artistic heritage.  It includes important works of unknown artists of the 18th century, masters of the 19th century, National Artists, up to the leading modern artists of the 1990s to the 21st century.

Its increasing photography collection, by renowned art photographers, is a recent development.  It includes the contemporary works of Isa Lorenzo, Neal Oshima, George Tapan, Bengy Toda, and Ferrante Ferranti.

The present National Museum of Fine Arts houses 29 galleries (most offered to sponsors and patrons, individuals or corporations, for the naming right) and hallway exhibitions comprising of 19th century Filipino masters, National Artists, leading modern painters, sculptors, and printmakers. Also on view are art loans from other government institutions, organizations, and individuals.

First Floor: The Judiciary Floor

  • The Government William H. Taft Entrance
  • The Architect Juan M. Arellano Foyer
  • The Sandiganbayan Reception Hall
  • Seminar Rooms
  • The National Fine Arts Repository
  • The National Archaeological Repository
  • Auditorium (North Annex)
  • Administrative Offices (South Annex)

Second Floor: The House of Representatives Floor

  • The Padre Jose Burgos Entrance
  • The President Manuel Roxas Foyer
  • The Spoliarium Hall
  • Gallery I: Religious Art from the 17th to 19th Centuries (Luis I. Ablaza Hall)- features Christian themed art from the 17th-19th centuries.
  • Gallery II: Gallery of the Via Crusis of an Unknown Bohol Master (Friends for Cultural Concerns of the Philippines, Inc. Hall) – features 14 paintings depicting the Stations of the Cross (Via Crusis).
  • Gallery III: Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of the Sacred Arts (Ramon and Milagros Del Rosario Family Hall) – exhibits the paintings that show images of saints and the Holy Family.
  • Gallery IV: Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of Portraiture (Fundacion Santiago Hall) – exhibits more than 30 portraits that showcase the status of the living and memories of the dead.
  • Gallery V: The National Hero in Art (Dr. Jose Rizal Hall) – displays sculptures and paintings made by the Philippine National Hero, Dr. Jose P. Rizal, as well as the artists who created paintings, portrait busts, and sculptures of the National Hero.
  • Gallery VI: Gallery of Paintings of Los Dos Pintores Juan Luna and Felix Hidalgo (Far East Bank and Trust Company – Andres and Grace Luna de San Pedro Memorial Hall) – features major works and oil studies by Juan Luna as well as Félix Resurrección Hidalgo, Luna’s contemporary and friend.
  • Gallery VII (Special Exhibition Hall)
  • Gallery VIII (Silvina and Juan Laya Hall) – features paintings by Filipino artists who want to show the painful and hard life during the Imperial Japanese Occupation during 1941 to 1945, liberation of the Philippines by American and Filipino forces and the damage that happened in Manila during the war.
  • Gallery IX (Early 20th Century Philippine Portrait Hall) – features a collection of works of portraiture and Filipino types by artists under the Classical Realist School during 1903 to 1960 and works of artists that are the pioneer and prolific during that period.
  • Gallery X (Museum Foundation of the Philippines Hall)
  • Gallery XI: Drawings of Fernando C. Amorsolo (Society for the Preservation of Philippine Culture Hall) (SPPC Hall) – features over 100 black-and-white pencil and ink sketches and oil studies of the National Artist Fernando Amorsolo before creating his masterpiece.
  • Gallery XII – Eskultor ng Lahing Filipino:  Honoring the Life and Work of Guillermo Tolentino (Security Bank Hall) – features the work of National Artist of the Philippines for Sculpture (1973) Guillermo E. Tolentino.
  • The President Sergio Osmena Function Hall – houses the Madonna with Angels (ca. 1946), a plaster relief  by Francesco Riccardo Monti, donated by the heirs of Petronillo L. Del Rosario, Sr.

Check out “Gallery I: Religious Art from the 17th to 19th Centuries,” “Gallery II: Gallery of the Via Crusis of an Unknown Bohol Master,” “Gallery III: Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of the Sacred Arts,” “Gallery IV: Paintings of the Philippine Colonial Tradition of Portraiture” “Gallery V: The National Hero in Art,” “Gallery VI: Gallery of Paintings of Los Dos Pintores Juan Luna and Felix Hidalgo,” “Gallery VIII,” “Gallery IX,” “Gallery XI: Drawings of Fernando C. Amorsolo” and “Gallery XII – Eskultor ng Lahing Filipino:  Honoring the Life and Work of Guillermo Tolentino

Third Floor: The Senate Floor.

  • The President Manuel L. Quezon Foyer
  • Gallery XIII (Vicente and Carmen Fabella Hall) – features works by National Artist for Sculpture (1976) Napoleon Veloso Abueva (1930-2018) and a monumental painting by National Artist for Painting (1973) Carlos V. “Botong” Francisco (1912 – 1969).
  • Gallery XIV: Pillars of Philippine Modernism – features Philippine modern art from the 1920s-1970s, most notably Victorio C. Edades, an artist who started the Modern Art in the Philippines.
  • Gallery XV (Emilio Aguilar Cruz Hall) – is dedicated to the life and works of Emilio Aguilar Cruz (1915-1991).
  • Gallery XVI (Philippine General Hospital Hall) – is dedicated to The Progress of Medicine in the Philippines, a set of four large-scale paintings by celebrated muralist and National Artist Carlos V. “Botong” Francisco (1912-1969) that depicts the evolution of healing practices in the Philippines from the pre-colonial period tribal practices to the modern period.
  • Gallery XVII (Special Exhibition Hall Dedicated to Women’s Art)
  • Gallery XVIII: Pillars of Philippine Modernism – features Modernist art pieces from the 1940s to 1980s, with works by a number of National Artists such as Carlos V. “Botong” Francisco (1912-1969), Jose T. Joya (1931-1995), Cesar T. Legaspi (1917-1994), and Abdulmari Asia Imao (1936-2014). Also displayed are palettes of Jose T. Joya and Mauro Malang Santos (1928-2017).
  • Gallery XIX (Philippine Modern Sculpture Hall)
  • Gallery XX (Placuna Placenta: Capis Shells and Windows to Indigenous Artistry)
  • Gallery XXI (GSIS North Hall) – features National Artist Federico Aguilar Alcuaz’s (1932-2011) Art Protis from the collection of the Government Service Insurance System (GSIS). Art protis or non-woven tapestry is a unique process developed in Brno, the second biggest city in the Czech Republic. There, Alcuaz met a Czech artist who introduced him to the new textile collage technique. This exhibition shows Alcuaz’s skills and talent in using this foreign technique to create outstanding collage artworks.
  • Gallery XXII (International Rice Research Institute Hall) – features two large-scale paintings and their watercolor studies by National Artist Vicente S. Manansala (1910-1981) from the collection of the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI).
  • Gallery XXIII (GSIS Northwest Hall) – pays homage to the works of National Artist for Painting Vicente S. Manansala (1910-1981). It contains his works from the National Fine Arts Collection and the Government Service Insurance System (GSIS) art collection.
  • Gallery XXIV (Philam Life Hall) – shows seven large paintings by National Artist Vicente S. Manansala (1910-1981) commissioned in the 1960s by the Philippine-American General Life Insurance Company (Philam Life) for its building at United Nations Avenue, Ermita, Manila. Also featured here are rural-themed wood reliefs by renowned sculptor, Jose P. Alcantara (1911-2005), which previously adorned the Philam Life Theater.
  • The Senate Session Hall (Main Level) – features modern and contemporary Philippine art from the 20th to the 21st centuries. All the ornamentation and decoration in this Hall was done by Isabelo Tampinco.
  • The Senator Claro M. Recto Function Hall

Gallery XIII,” “Gallery XIV: Pillars of Philippine Modernism,” Gallery XV,” “Gallery XVI,” “Gallery XVIII: Pillars of Philippine Modernism,” “Gallery XIX,” “Gallery XXI,” “Gallery XXII,” “Gallery XXIII” and “Gallery XXIV

Fourth Floor: The Executive Floor.

  • The Senator Benigno S. Aquino Jr. Foyer
  • Gallery XXV
  • Gallery XXVI
  • Gallery XXVII (Special Exhibition Hall)
  • Gallery XXVIII (Special Exhibition Hall)
  • Gallery XXIX (Philippine Modern Sculpture Hall)
  • The Senate Session Hall (Mezzanine Level)
  • The President Jose P. Laurel Function Hall
  • Management Offices

Check out “Circa by Impy Pilapil” and “Placuna Placenta: Capis Shells and Windows to Indigenous Artistry

National Museum of Fine Arts: Padre Burgos Avenue, Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 8527-1215 and (632) 8298-1100.  Email: inquiry@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Website: nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 4PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 14°35′13″N 120°58′52″E.

Old Legislative Building (Manila)

The monumental Old Legislative Building (also the Old Congress Building), now the home of the National Museum of Fine Arts (operated by the National Museum of the Philippines since 1996), was formerly the home of the bicameral congress from 1926 to 1972, and the Philippine Senate from 1987 to 1997. The building was originally designed by Ralph Harrington Doane (Consulting Architect of the Bureau of Public Works, precursor of the Department of Public Works and Highways). Doane, with the assistance of Antonio Mañalac Toledo, originally designed the building as the future home of the National Library of the Philippines, according to the plan of Manila of Daniel H. Burnham.

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Old Legislative Building – West Facade

Began in 1918, it was built under the supervision of the architecture firm of Pedro Siochi and Company but construction was delayed due to lack of funds. In 1926, the Philippine Legislature (established on October 16, 1916) decided to move into the Library building and changes to the building’s layout were done accordingly by architect Juan M. Arellano who added the fourth floor and the chambers for legislators, changed the central façade and incorporated the ornamentation and sculptural work.

The Neo-Classical facade

On July 16, 1926, the building was inaugurated with the formal opening of the Second Regular Session of the 7th Philippine Legislature  in the presence of Governor-General Leonard Wood, then Senate President Manuel L. Quezon, House Speaker Manuel Roxas, and Colonel Carmi A. Thompson (envoy of United States President Calvin Coolidge). From 1928 to 1944, it was concurrently the headquarters of the National Library.

In 1935, the Commonwealth of the Philippines was proclaimed and the inauguration of President Manuel L. Quezon was held outside the building which became the home of the National Assembly of the Philippines (it was subsequently known as the National Assembly Building). In 1940, a bicameral Congress of the Philippines, consisting of a Senate and House of Representatives, replaced the National Assembly, with the Senate occupying the upper floors and the House occupying the lower floors. The building would serve as home of the Commonwealth Congress until 1945.

East facade

In February 1945, during World War II, Japanese forces used the building and its premises as their stronghold, modifying it with defensive installations. Surrounding the building were obstacles, roadblocks, trenches, pillboxes and barbed wire and guns and other heavy machine guns were strategically installed on the building floors. For several days until February 27, the American forces bombarded the building with artillery fire and the building’s north and south wings were heavily damaged. Most of the structure was beyond repair, except for the still-standing central portion.

Pediment at east facade

In 1946, with the inauguration of the Republic of the Philippines, the building was rebuilt, mostly from memory and with the aid of a few remaining blueprints, by the U.S. Philippine War Damage Corporation who maintained its original building four-storey height, footprint and dimensions but with less ornate interior and exterior ornamentation. Reconstruction began in 1949 and, that same year, the Congress moved back in. In 1950, the two wings of the building were completed.

Historical plaque (Old Legislative Building) installed by the National Historical Commission in 2010

The building, now known as the Congress Building, continuously served as home of the Congress of the Philippines until 1972 when the Congress was effectively dissolved and the building was padlocked with the declaration of martial law. For a short time, the fourth floor of the building became home of the offices of the Prime Minister of the Philippines (a position established under the 1973 Constitution of the Philippines).  Offices of various government branches were also housed here, with the Ombudsman occupying the third floor, the National Museum on the second floor, and the Sandiganbayan on the ground floor. For the duration of that time, the building was called the Executive House.

Historical plaque (Pambansang Museo) installed by the National Historical Institute in 2001

With the ratification of the 1987 Constitution of the Philippines, the Congress of the Philippines was reestablished with the Senate using the original Congress Building for their plenary sessions until May 1997 (when it moved to the Government Service Insurance System Building on reclaimed land on Manila Bay in Pasay)) and the House of Representatives moving to the Batasang Pambansa Complex in Constitution Hill, Quezon City.   The former office of the Prime Minister was taken as the Office of the Vice-President.

Bronze statue of Sergio Osmena, sitting on a marble pedestal created by Federico S. Ilustre, was created by Guillermo Tolentino and cast by Fonderia Berdicando Marinelle in Italy.  It was unveiled in 1966.  In 2019, this statue was declared as an Important Cultural Property by the National Museum of the Philippines.

In 1998, the building was then turned over to the National Museum of the Philippines. On September 30, 2010, the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) declared the building as a “National Historical Landmark” by virtue of Resolution No. 8 (dated September 30, 2010). A marker commemorating the declaration was unveiled on October 29, 2010.

Bronze statue of Manuel L. Quezon, sitting on a marble pedestal created by Federico S. Ilustre, was created by Guillermo Tolentino and cast by Fonderia Berdicando Marinelle in Italy.  It was unveiled in 1965. In 2019, this statue was declared as an Important Cultural Property by the National Museum of the Philippines.

On October 29, 2012, the restored old Senate Session Hall was inaugurated after a two-year restoration project aimed to bring back its pre-war architectural glory that is intended to be part of the learning tours of museum visitors. On July 16, 2019, the NHCP unveiled the Philippine Flag Hoisting marker to honor the site’s historic value. In view of this, the Philippine Flag is to be permanently hoisted and lighted at night at the National Museum of Fine Arts.

The author at the Old Legislative Building

The four-storey building has a rectangular plan with a layout oriented with its line of symmetry in an east-west axis, longitude in a north-south axis, and its main entrances on the east and the west. Courtyards at the north and south flank the building’s central core spaces. Organized around these courtyards are the associated rooms, with single volume hallways east and west, and double volume hallways north and south. Staircases are located at both ends of the entrance halls and the four corners of the building.

The columned portico, at the second floor, signals the west entrance which is accessed via a flight of stairs and the carriageway ramp coming from ground level along Padre Burgos Street. The west portico has four Corinthian columns that rise the full height of the building.

Entrance lobby

The Neo-Classical  façade is articulated with giant Corinthian columns and pilasters rising from the second floor level to the height of the two storeys of the building, with the first storey resembling the one-storey high plinth where these columns and pilasters rest.

Bronze statue of President Manuel A. Roxas, created by Guillermo Tolentino, was cast by Fonderia Berdicando Marinelle in Italy.  Commissioned by Gerardo M. Roxas in 1968, it was unveiled in the lobby on April 15, 2016.

The columns and pilasters surrounding the entire wall are topped by decorative entablatures.  The projecting central bay, featuring a group of four columns, has corbelled balconies on the third level. Another group of four columns, with similar Corinthian capitals, are also featured at the corner bays.

Fenestrations consist of rectangular windows decorated with grillwork.  Except for the west central bay with the columned portico, both the east and west façades are identical. Identical east and west pediments, with relief sculptures, surmount the central part of the building. Relief sculptures on the tympanum of the pediment, depicting “Inang Bayan” surrounded by Greek deities, emphasizes grandeur and nationalism and ennobles the edifice. From the west and south of the building, respectively, you can enjoy a splendid view of Intramuros and Rizal Park.

Statue of Diwata , a sculpture of a winged fairy done in reinforced concrete by Guillermo Tolentino, welcomes visitors tot the museum.

An arched porte-cochere, protecting the east entrance at the ground level, is approached via the east driveway from the present east open space (formerly a southward radial road with Agrifina Circle as its terminus).

Old Legislative Building: Padre Burgos Avenue, Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila. Coordinates: 14°35′13″N 120°58′52″E.

Minor Basilica and National Shrine of St. Lorenzo Ruiz (Binondo, Manila)

Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz

This church was founded by the Dominicans in 1587 to serve Chinese converts.  Fronting Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz (formerly Plaza de Calderon de la Barca), it was built before 1614 and transferred to its present site in the 18th century. Formerly known as Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary Parish, it was renamed after St. Lorenzo Ruiz, the Philippines’ first saint.

Historical plaque

Beatified on February 18, 1981 and canonized by Pope John Paul II on October 18, 1987), he was born of a Chinese father and a Filipino mother, trained in this church, served as a sacristan (altar boy), clerk and notary and, afterwards, went as a missionary to Japan, where he and his companions were martyred on September 19, 1637 in Nagasaki for refusing to renounce Christianity.

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The five-storey, octagonal Chinese-influenced bell tower

In 1762, the original building was destroyed by British bombardment and its roof replaced with nipa in 1778 as the wood was destroyed by termites.   In 1781, its dome was constructed by Spanish architect Domingo Cruz y Gonzalez.

The church’s dome

In 1852, a new granite church was completed on the same site, featuring an octagonal, pagoda-like bell tower which suggests the Chinese culture of the parishioners. The church was slightly damaged (the mirador or viewing window at the top of the bell tower was destroyed) during the June 3, 1863 earthquake. In March 1893 or 1894, Andrés Bonifacio and his second wife, Gregoria de Jesús were wed in Catholic rites in the church.

On September 22, 1944, American bombing destroyed the structure, burning everything including the archives of the parish. Nothing was left behind except the stone walls of the western façade of the church and the five-storey octagonal bell tower.

The church’s interior

The present church was rebuilt, in three phases, between 1946 and 1971 by Msgr. Federico V. Navarro, partly continued Msgr. Guillermo S. Mendoza from 1971 to 1976 and restored and reconstructed from January 1977 to January 1984.  On May 9, 1985, it was blessed by Jaime Cardinal Sin.  The roof behind the pediment, the three-storey parish center, convent and the walls at the left of the façade were added.

Pastel-colored gilt reredos behind the main altar (loosely modeled after the façade of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City

The imposing, still original (with some renovations) Italian High Renaissance facade is buttressed on the sides by pilasters terminating in urn-like decorations.  Its pediment, framed by a foliated scroll and topped by a tower at the apex, has a centrally located small circular window framed by smaller columns and pediment.

Ceiling paintings depicting scenes from the four mysteries of the Holy Rosary

The original six-storey octagonal bell tower (based on the Chinese tradition on luck and fortune), on the right, has pedimented window openings and cantons at the angles.  Inside the church are ornate pastel-colored gilt reredos behind the main altar (loosely modeled after the façade of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City) and it houses the image of Nuestra Señora del Rosario.

Ceiling paintings depict scenes from the four mysteries of the Holy Rosary.  Fronting the church is (or simply Plaza Binondo).  Masses are said here in FilipinoMandarinHokkien, and English.

Minor Basilica and National Shrine of St. Lorenzo Ruiz: cor. Ongpin and Quintin Paredes Sts., Binondo, Manila.  Tel: (632) 8242-4850 and 8242-4041.  Fax: (632) 8241-4653. E-mail: binondochurch1596@gmail.com. Coordinates: 14.60021°N 120.97470°E.

Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz (Binondo, Manila)

Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz

The 1,460 sq. m. (15,715 sq. ft.), ellipse-shaped (unlike other plazas in Manila) Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz (or Plaza Lorenzo Ruiz),  a major public square fronting the Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz (Binondo Church), one of the main churches of the City of Manila, is considered the center of Binondo as a whole. It is bounded by Quintin Paredes Street (formerly Calle Rosario) to the east and Juan Luna Street (formerly Calle Anloague) to the west, parallel to the Estero de Binondo.

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Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz

Originally called the Plaza de Binondo (sometime in the 1700s or 1800s), and then Plaza Carlos IV (after Charles IV of Spain), the plaza was eventually renamed Plaza Calderón de la Barca (often shortened to Plaza Calderón), after the famous Spanish playwright Pedro Calderon de la Barca later in the 19th century. It is believed that the plaza may have been renamed after Calderón either by the then-sitting Governor-General, or by the Dominican friars who had adored his works and who were, at the time running the Binondo Church.

Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz was created to serve as the largest plaza (originally an open grass field) of Binondo, the settlement of for Chinese migrants arriving in Manila which was established in 1594 on the northern bank of the Pasig River by then Governor-General Gómez Pérez Dasmariñas. During the Spanish colonial period, the plaza was a hub for economic activity, now surrounded by trees and tipped with two large fountains, both of which still stand today.

Trade around the area increased with the completion of the Binondo Church in 1854, and several large buildings and mansions were built around the plaza. During American rule, economic activity continued to grow in Binondo, and the plaza, alongside other major plazas in Manila, was a busy center of activity, being also well-served by Manila’s pre-World War II tram network.

A small Chinese shrine

During the Battle of Manila in 1945, the plaza was spared and economic activity in Binondo recovered thereafter.  However, around the 1960s, the area around the plaza started declining when most business activity shifted from Manila to Makati and Cubao in Quezon City.

Fountain at northwest corner

On September 12, 1981, by virtue of Batas Pambansa Blg. 133, the plaza was renamed after Lorenzo Ruiz, one of the Martyrs of Japan and the protomartyr of the Philippines.  In 2005, during the tenure of Lito Atienza, Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz was redeveloped by the Manila city government with help from the Metrobank Foundation (which donated Php3 million for the project). A perimeter fence which previously circled around the plaza was removed. In 2014, during the tenure of Joseph Estrada, another redevelopment was completed.

Fountain at southeast corner

With a fountain on each end, Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz is paved with granite tiles and multicolored interlocking concrete bricks (similar to Plaza Miranda in Quiapo, with park benches, installed around the plaza’s perimeter, and a number of royal palm trees planted in the plaza’s center, complementing a number of existing narra trees. At night, the plaza is lit with 42 promenade lampposts, 32 floodlights and 24 uplights that have been installed at strategic points around the area.

Statue of San Lorenzo Ruiz (Eduardo Catrillo)

When the plaza (and the area in general) was in serious decline by the 1980s, the plaza became the repository for four monuments (two of which are over a century old), moved from nearby Plaza Cervantes and Plaza Goiti (now Plaza Lacson), which were cleared to make room for parking space.  A 12 ft. high, brass statue of Blessed Lorenzo Ruiz, repositioned to face the Binondo Church (where he was baptized and served as sacristan and clerk at the parish office), is the most notable monument.  Created by the late Filipino sculptor Eduardo Castrillo in 1989, it was installed during the 2005 rehabilitation.  A memorial to Chinese Filipino victims of World War II, behind the statue, was erected in 1995 by the Confederation of Filipino Chinese Veterans.

Memorial to Chinese-Filipino Victims of World War II

A small, unassuming and sadly not well-maintained monument to Joaquin Santa Marina (the founder of the La Insular Cigar and Cigarette Factory), said to have been built in the late 19th century, is found at the southern end of the plaza. A taller obelisk, at the northern end of the plaza, dates back to 1911.  Erected in memory of Tomas Pinpin, the first Filipino printer, it was moved, from the smaller Plaza Cervantes (south of Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz), to the plaza in 1979.

Monument to Joaquin Santa Marina

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

Today, the park and plaza looks run-down and in a sorry state of neglect, with homeless people, beggars and vagrants using it as a clothes drying, sleeping and dining area. Trees are untrimmed, bushes overgrown and statues dirty and filled with graffiti.  Trash was everywhere. Surprisingly, both fountains were still functional. So sad…..

A number of notable structures, aside from the Binondo Church, are (or were) located within the vicinity of Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz. The aforementioned La Insular Cigar and Cigarette Factory, a filigreed construction of stone and cast iron opened in 1883 after the lifting of the Spanish tobacco monopoly three years earlier, was the largest building to have been built around the plaza. It was, however, destroyed by fire during the Battle of Manila and the site is now occupied by the Wellington Building, once the headquarters of the Metropolitan Bank and Trust Company (Metrobank), founded by Chinese Filipino businessman George Ty, but still home to the Binondo offices of a number of Metrobank-affiliated companies.

Tomas Pinpin Monument (1918)

Beside it was the Hotel de Oriente, then the most popular hotel in Manila which also served as the erstwhile headquarters of the National Library of the Philippines.  National Hero José Rizal once stayed in Room 22.  In fact, Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz is mentioned in Chapter 4 of José Rizal’s novel Noli Me Tángere (where Crisostomo Ibarra reaches the plaza and its vicinity after attending Captain Tiago’s dinner party at his house on Calle Anloague). Unlike the La Insular Cigar and Cigarette Factory, the Hotel de Oriente was only partially destroyed in the Battle of Manila but it was demolished afterward and the site is now occupied by Tytana Plaza (home to the current Binondo offices of Metrobank). The Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar complex in BagacBataan has a replica of the Hotel de Oriente.

Wellington Building

Also nearby, sandwiched between the Asia United Bank Building and the San Fernando Building, is the decrepit, century-old Pansiteria Macanista de Buen Gusto, a now crumbling 1880s wooden building, with dilapidated capiz shell windows, which was mentioned by José Rizal in the novel El Filibusterismo. In Chapter 25 of the novel (entitled “Smiles and Tears”), Rizal wrote that the panciteria was the venue of a meeting of 14 students where they ate pancit lang-lang while mocking the Spanish friars. Now owned by Ever New Realty and Development Corp., the building is a “Presumed Important Cultural Property” which means it is protected from being demolished.

Pansiteria Macanista de Buen Gusto

Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz: Juan Luna St., Binondo, Manila. Coordinates: 14°36′01″N 120°58′26″E.

Co Ban Kiat Buiding (Binondo, Manila)

The Co Ban Kiat Buiding, standing in a busy portion of Juan Luna Street in what was once called “Chinatown’s Wall Street,” was the former SJ Wilson Building, named after the American expatriate Samuel J. Wilson who was behind the printing business Carmelo and Bauermann before World War II.

Co Ban Kiat Building

Built in 1937, the SJ Wilson Building, in its heyday, also housed the Standard and Chartered Bank, the Manila Stock Exchange and even the Japanese Consulate General. In 2011, the building came under the ownership of Binondo-based Co Ban Kiat Inc. (CBCI), the biggest supplier of hardware in the Philippines for retail, commercial and industrial projects.

Our guide Mr. S.J. Go of Renacimiento Manila narrating the history of the building

Initially, company president Johnny O. Cobankiat, the third-generation scion, as well as his colleagues in the real-estate industry and immediate family members, had no inkling of the building’s architectural and heritage value. Not seeing any value in it, they saw demolition as the most convenient way to redevelop the property. Fortunately, the owner was convinced by Deogracias B. Degala, the in-house architect, and other conscientious minds to take the path of conservation.

During the two-year, trial-and-error restoration, a full diagnosis of the building’s structural integrity was undertaken.   Also, for the refurbishment of the façade, interiors and ceiling roof, the owner and architect were guided by the principle of keeping as much of the original details as possible. No details were removed, and ornaments, such as the cornices, moldings and the striped pilasters were restored.

In keeping with texture that followed the patina of the old building, the late 1930s period, Art Deco, boxy and geometric façade was painted with China white, an off-white/light-beige tone. Now, heritage-conservation advocates and concerned members of the Chinatown community are celebrating this building’s rebirth.

Viewing this building’s massive bulk from the street, the heavy façade of the Co Ban Kiat Building, looming like a behemoth, is somehow softened by its tall, rectangular, encased windows protected by original wrought-iron grillwork.

The main entrance, along obscure Nimfa Street, is located at the southern portion of the building’s façade. Its doorway, flanked by a pair of Ionic columns and topped with an escutcheon, opens up the ground floor and main office of the company. Welcoming customers at the main entrance are details from the original company address on Quintin Paredes Street (ironically torn down) such as the old glass panels, originally a form of street-level advertising, with the embellished gold-gilt company name.

The still original decorative window grilles

The design firm Atalyer, led by chief integrating officer León Araneta, created what is probably one of the most delightful commercial interiors in all Chinatown, with a high and airy ceiling evoking a Commonwealth-era downtown-Manila spirit. The white walls and massive support columns are softened by brown veneer wood cladding. Wood partitions, with fence-like railings acting as partitions, demarcate the spaces within, giving a nostalgic twist reminiscent of old banks from that era.

At the center of the hall hangs the Chinese characters zhit tiak ti giap, a visual link to the company’s ethnic Chinese origins, honors Mr. Co Ban Kiat, the current owner’s great-grandfather and the founder of the company. Traditional black signboards, with gold-leaf lettering, are widely used among old Tsinoy businesses in Binondo to indicate the business name and its purpose.

The fourth floor cafeteria, reached via the original hand-cranked elevator, combines modern edgy lines with nostalgic black-and-white photos of Manila. Miniature wooden signboards of past tenants, adorning the support columns, subtly integrates more of the building’s history. A lovely open deck has a front view of downtown Manila’s architectural symphony.

The eighth floor, the most striking feature of this building, has stylized buttresses and a mansard-like concrete roof.  Envisioned to be a museum of sorts, here you will still find remnants of the building’s past activities such as a gold-smelting facility.  The uneven framed outline of the exposed, largely deformed, web-like roof trusses, conserved as a vestige of the structure’s history, came when a major fire in 1969 resulted in the twisting of the cast-iron support.

Co Ban Kiat Building: 231 Juan Luna St, Binondo, Manila, 1006 Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 843-1931, 843-2734 and 8243-5265.  E-mail: jao@cobankiat.com.ph.  Website: www.cobankiat.com and www.cbkhardware.com.