Category Archives: PLACES OF INTEREST

Phillip Island – Moonlit Sanctuary Wildlife Conservation Park (Melbourne, Australia)

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Moonlit Sanctuary Wildlife Conservation Park

After our Brighton Bathing Boxes visit, we again boarded our coach for the 48.3 km. (45-min.) drive, via the M11, to the 10-hectare (25-acre) Moonlit Sanctuary Wildlife Conservation Park, crossing over to Phillip Island via the 640 m. (2,100 ft.) long San Remo Bridge (opened in 1971).  We arrived at the park by 1:15 PM.

Check out “Brighton Bathing Boxes“

Jandy, Cheska, Kyle and Bryan at the park entrance

Show arena

The Moonlit Sanctuary Wildlife Conservation Park is a biopark within the Pearcedale Conservation Park located on the Mornington Peninsula near Melbourne. It aims to display the fauna that was found in the Mornington Peninsula and Western Port Biosphere Reserve, prior to European settlement, as well as working towards the recovery of threatened Australian fauna.

As part of Pearcedale Conservation Park, the sanctuary is an institutional member of the Zoo and Aquarium Association (ZAA) and is ECO Certified, at the Ecotourism level, by Ecotourism Australia.

A dingo

In December 1998, development of the zoo started with construction of a visitor center, a 0.81 hectare (2-acre) wetland habitat with a lake, and more than 30 animal enclosures, as well as many Australian trees and other plants. The zoo was opened in September 2001.

Cape Barren Geese

Over 400 animals kept at the Sanctuary, representing over 60 different species, call the sanctuary home. They include spot-tailed quolls, southern bettongs, squirrel gliders, long-nosed potoroo, red-bellied pademelon, spinifex hopping mouse, fat-tailed dunnart, brush-tailed bettong, red-necked wallaby, feathertail glider, sugar glider, Tasmanian masked owl, tawny frogmouth, Cape Barren goose, bush thicknee, Victorian carpet python, blue-tongue lizard, and Gippsland water-dragon.

Bush-Stone Curlew

Moonlit has successfully bred a number of rare and endangered species including southern bettong (AKA eastern bettong) and the eastern quoll, both now extinct on the mainland and only found in the wild in Tasmania;  Julia Creek dunnart; fluffy glider (yellow-bellied glider) and squirrel glider.

Orange-Bellied Parrot Conservation Breeding Facility

In 2016 it opened a new breeding facility for the critically endangered orange-bellied parrots, designed to house up to 20 pairs. It operates education services for school children, and provides research facilities for graduate students.

Gang-Gang Cockatoo

Moonlit Sanctuary has won a number of awards such as:

  • Victorian Keep Australia Beautiful Award for Preservation of the Environment with an emphasis on local fauna and flora (2009)
  • Victorian Tourism Award for Ecotourism (2010)
  • Victorian Tourism Award for Ecotourism (2014)
  • Premier’s Sustainability Award for Environmental Protection (2017) – for their Orange-bellied Parrot Breeding for Recovery program.
  • Victorian Tourism Award for Ecotourism (2018)
  • Victorian Tourism Award for Tourism Attraction (2018)
  • Silver for Ecotourism (Australian Tourism Awards, 2018)

Major Mitchell Cockatoo

At the entrance, we bought seeds for feeding the birds, kangaroos and wallabies because that is the only place where they sell them. Walking through natural bushland and, at the Kangaroo and Wallaby Rest Area, Bryan, Kyle and I came into close contact with the abovementioned animals in their natural habitats as we fed them and observed their natural behavior.

Kyle feeding a bird

The author feeding a kangaroo

We had a great deal of fun hand feeding and petting the adorable, freely roaming kangaroos and wallabies, doing selfies with them, as well as seeing colorful birds in aviaries and other Australian animals such as wombats, koalas and dingoes up close. Too bad we weren’t able to pet and feed the koalas, Still.it was totally worth the trip

Bryan feeding a wallaby

The park wasn’t very big but it did have a nice range of native Australian animals. The friendly, very enthusiastic and knowledgeable caretakers, passionate about their charges, really enjoyed their work here and the animals were clearly loved and well cared for.

A cute koala

Moonlit Sanctuary was a different visitor experience from a normal zoo visit as we spent longer periods of time with a small number of animals, getting up close and personal with them.

Red-Tailed Black Cockatoo

Pacific Black Duck

Truly, an exceptional introduction to native Australian species in a tranquil sanctuary and a memorable part of our time in Melbourne.

Gift Shop-Restaurant

Moonlit Sanctuary Conservation Park:  550 Tyabb-Tooradin Rd., Pearcedale, Victoria 3912, Australia. Website: www.moonlitsanctuary.com.au. Open daily (except on Christmas Day).

Brighton Bathing Boxes (Melbourne, Australia)

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Brighton Beach Boxes

On our third day in Melbourne, Cheska booked a Philip Island Day Tour for us.  After breakfast at our apartment, we were all picked up at 11 AM, at a pick up point near our apartment, by Sophia, our Go West tour guide cum coach driver.  After all the other participants were all picked up, we were on our way by 11:50 AM.

One house for the affluent at the Esplanade community

The first destination in our itinerary, a 13 km./20-min. drive away, was trendy Brighton Beach (actually called Dendy Street Beach) along Port Philip Bay where we were to visit the iconic Brighton Bathing Boxes, a row of 82 (it’s recorded that before the Great Depression, there were between 100 to 200 boxes on record) distinctive, multi-colored and uniformly proportioned wooden beach huts lining the foreshore of one of Melbourne’s most exclusive and affluent neighborhoods.

Brighton Beach

One of the most photographed spots in the city, these boxes do have a lot of history behind them and they still retain their charm and classic architectural features to this very day.  They were built more than 100 years ago when Australians were a little more modest in response to very Victorian ideas of morality and seaside bathing.  These boxes, made from timber frames, weatherboard sidings and corrugated iron roofing, were used by women for privacy when changing into their swimwear.

Some of the 82 colorful Bathing Boxes

In keeping with their classic 1800’s Victorian architectural features and style, even today, the boxes don’t have running water or electricity. Despite their lack of modern conveniences and the laws against camping in them, what the Brighton Bathing Boxes lack in amenities, they make up for in incredible views of Port Phillip Bay and towards the Melbourne city skyline. That view comes with a price tag. It is rare for the existing boxes to hit the market as they are tightly held and often passed down through generations.

According to Sophia, Brighton Bathing boxes can only be sold to locals living in the Bayside area.  There are also strict rules outlining what the boxes can (and cannot) be used for. Owners cannot sleep in them or use them for advertising purposes.

The much photographed Bathing Box painted with the Australian flag

They cannot also be rented out to others. Today, these colorful timber boxes are used for storing fishing gear, deck chairs and sheltering from the sun on a scorching day at the beach. In 2017, a Brighton Bathing Box did hit the market and it sold for a jaw-dropping $326,000 (AUD) to a local resident.

The author with Kyle and Grace beside a Beach Box

Each of the pastel painted Brighton Bathing Boxes had its own unique characteristic, all with vibrant colors that pop, and bearing the hallmarks of individual licensees’’ artistic and colorful embellishments. Box No. 2, which features the Australian Flag, seem to be the most popular as visitors, both local and international, queued up for photos outside of it during our short visit.

A pair of seagulls frolicking along the beach

Other designs include a boxing kangaroos (Australia’s unofficial sporting mascot), a space invader, a Katsushika Hokusai-inspired blue-and-white wave box and another with a Volkswagen van declaring that “Life’s a Beach.”  An eye-popping contrast to the turquoise waters of the ocean, you’ll have to walk the entire length of the beach to see each of them.

Jandy queuing for ice cream (AUD7) at an ice cream truck

Brighton Bathing Boxes: Esplanade, Middle Brighton (between Wellington Street and Dendy Street). 

How to Get There: the easiest way to get to get there is to take a train from the Flinders Street Station, on the Sandringham Line, to Middle Brighton. Though it doesn’t stop at the beach, it is closer to the Brighton Bathing Boxes than the Brighton Beach station (unless you fancy a longer, 1.3-km. walk along the beach). From the station, it’s about a 1.2-km./15-min. walk to the beach.  To guide your way, there are shops along the way as well as blue plaques with the beach boxes on them. If you’re travelling by car, you can park close to the beach. If you are getting there by bus, take the 216 or the 219 bus from Melbourne’s Central Business District.

 

Werribee Open Range Zoo (Werribee, Australia)

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Werribee Open Range Zoo

Our second whole day in Australia was to be spent on a half-day tour of the Werribee Open Range Zoo, about 32 kms. (20 mi.) southwest of Melbourne.  After brunch at our apartment, we walked towards the Melbourne Central Station where we took a one-hour train ride to Werribee Station. We arrived at the station by 11:20 AM and, from the station, we caught the Bus 439 Werribee South to the zoo.

Check out “Melbourne Central Station“

The 225-hectare (560-acre) Werribee Open Range Zoo, an African-themed zoo in Werribee, is ocated on the Werribee River in Werribee Park, adjacent to the Werribee Mansion.

Jandy, Kyle and Bryan at the Werribee Visitor Information Center

Gift shop

It is part of the Zoological Parks and Gardens Board or ‘Zoos Victoria’ which also includes Melbourne Zoo and Healesville Sanctuary.

Ticket Office

Meerkat Cafe

Cafe interior

Here’s the historical timeline of the zoo:

  • In 1975, the 120 hectares of land on which Werribee Open Range Zoo now sits was acquired to act as agistment for the surplus stock from Melbourne Zoo. The board aimed to use the property’s landscape to develop an open range zoo.
  • In 1983 Werribee Open Range Zoo was opened to the public and guests were offered a guided safari-like tour around the property. Species at the zoo were mostly ungulates including bison and deer along with ostrich and kangaroos. Whipsnade Zoo provided a pair of Southern White Rhinoceros.
  • For the next ten years, guests boarded a bus, paying an admission fee as they entered, from a shelter at the Werribee Park Mansion, across the road from the zoo.
  • In 1996, the zoo was completely relaunched with a bistro, shop, discovery center and walking trail opened to add to the experience.
  • The next year, the Volcanic Plains Trail, showing off the Western basalt plains which is an endangered grasslands ecosystem, was opened.
  • During 1999, four new rhinos from South Africa arrived at the zoo to begin a breeding program.
  • In 2002, the zoo’s first rhino calf was born and was named Ganini.
  • In 2004, the Lions on the Edge habitat was unveiled.
  • In September 2006, Kubu River Hippos, the zoo’s largest development ever, was opened.
  • In December 2008, an African wildlife habitat was unveiled.
  • In 2010, the zoo celebrated its 25th birthday.
  • Also in 2010, the Australian comedy duo Hamish and Andy, posing as gorillas playing with golf clubs and toy cars, appeared in the zoo’s under construction gorilla enclosure as part of filming for a TV show.
  • In 2011, a gorilla exhibit opened with three male western lowland gorillas (an adult silverback and his two sons) gained from Melbourne Zoo.
  • In 2014, a koala habitat was opened along with a bandicoot hideaway (a nocturnal house where people can discover critically endangered eastern barred bandicoots). Squirrel gliders, dunnarts, tawny frogmouths and striped legless lizards also live here.

The African-themed village

The zoo has a simulated African village whose educational and entertaining includes a mock scenario of an African ranger and his adventures tracking lions, and an interactive soundscape walk with simulated lion sounds surrounding the walker.

A Learning Center teaches more about the history and geography of animals in their environments. This very children-friendly zoo also has lots of animal-themed playgrounds (such as the monkey rope play) around the walking trail near the exhibits.

Children’s playground

Werribee Open Range Zoo also has an animal/adoption sponsorship program, which is used for gifts and other altruistic purposes.

We followed two independent trails with signs everywhere pointing us in different directions to each animal enclosure.

Meerkats

The Pula Reserve Walking Trail focuses on African animals, including a antelopes, rhinoceros, zebras, lions, hippopotamus  and meerkats at the picturesque grassy savanna.

The new Gorillas Calling, a 10,000 sq. m. (2.5-acre) island home sanctuary (one of the largest in the world), houses the 3 gorillas and features wide-open spaces, climbing structures and indoor facilities.

A pair of camels

Rhinoceros

This facility enabled Zoos Victoria to provide best-practice care for the bachelor gorillas and confirm the organization’s reputation as a world leader in gorilla management.

Hippopotamus

Kubu River Hippos, a 3-hectare (7.41 acre) hippo paradise, is Australia’s only drive through hippo river. It has a boardwalk that allows visitors to view the hippos from every angle while the Kubu Queen, a semi submerged barge, allows for a closer view.

The area also has an adventure trail, archaeological dig site, interpretive centers and a hippo water play area with 5 life size hippo sculptures.  It can also be experienced on the safari tour.

A pride of lions

Lions on the Edge, with its beautiful pride of lions, has many great interactive elements including an abandoned jeep, half in and half out of the exhibit, where you can sit face to face with a lion.

Smaller habitats for prowling cheetahs, a troop of 18 vervet monkeys  (the only one’s of their kind on display in Australia) at play, and serval are also available for viewing.

Kangaroos

The author

The Australian Journey Walk, through Victoria’s vulnerable basalt plains grasslands, focuses on free wandering Australian animals such as the brolga, koala, emu and kangaroo as well as the cassowary.

A pair of emus (Dromaius novaehollandiae)

An ostrich

Come 3:30 PM, we availed of a bus tour (included in the zoo admission price), which takes up to 140 people in a unique safari bus and normally lasts 35–40 minutes, multiple times a day.

The unique, open air tour bus

The tour takes us out into the 45-hectare open savanna section of the zoo where we could find animals such as the hippo as well as animals of the grassland, such as bison, zebra, waterbuck, giraffe, ostrich, eland, antelopes and rhinoceros, as well as the camel and the scimitar-horned oryx.

A small herd of zebras

Werribee Open Range Zoo: K Rd, Werribee South, Victoria, 3030 Australia. Open daily (except Christmas Day), 9 AM – 5 PM (entry closes 3:30 PM).  Tel: 1300 966 784. Admission: adult (38AUD), child (19AUD) on weekdays, free on weekends. Visitors can also book various ‘specialty’ tours, including the Off Road Safari, or close encounters where you can feed gorillas, stroke servals or giraffe. E-mail: contact@zoo.org.au. Website: www..zoo.org.au/werribee/.

 

Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria (Melbourne, Australia)

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Royal Botanic Gardens

From the Shrine of Remembrance, Grace, Jandy, Bryan, Cheska, Kyle and I walked to the nearby Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria.  This  botanic gardens, across Melbourne and Cranbourne, is home to the State Botanical Collection which is housed in the National Herbarium of Victoria.

Check out “Shrine of Remembrance“

National Herbarium of Victoria

It includes 1.5 million preserved plants, algae and fungi, and Australia’s most comprehensive botanical library. Under the Royal Botanic Gardens Act 1991, the gardens are governed by the Royal Botanic Gardens Board who is responsible to the Minister for Environment.

The Royal Botanic Gardens Melbourne, founded in 1846, were initially intended to be a horticultural exhibition for the public to enjoy.  It was built on land reserved on the south side of the Yarra River for a new botanic garden.

Melbourne Observatory

Observatory House

Extending across 36 hectares (89 acres) that slope to the river with trees, garden beds, lakes and lawns, it displays, in 30 living plant collections, almost 50,000 individual plants (representing 8,500 different species).

Garden House

Visitor’s Center

Many seeds were traded between early European botanists such as Arthur and Von Mueller, who planted non-native species.

Bust of Baron Ferdinand von Mueller. Baron Sir Ferdinand Jacob Heinrich von Mueller, KCMG was a German-Australian physician, geographer, and most notably, a botanist. He was appointed government botanist for the then colony of Victoria by Gov. Charles La Trobe in 1853 and, later, director of the Royal Botanic Gardens.

On occasions throughout the gardens history, the Queen and her grandfather, Dame Nellie Melba and Paderewski contributed plantings.

The author relaxing at a park bench

Since its earliest days, plant research and identification in the Royal Botanic Gardens was done primarily through the National Herbarium of Victoria which is based at the Gardens.

Asteraceae (Olearia pannosa)

The State Botanical Collection, also housed in the Herbarium, includes over 1.2 million dried plant specimens plus an extensive collection of books, journals and artworks.

Cockscomb Coral Tree (Erythrina crista galli)

Wolgan Snow Gum (Eucallyptus gregsoniana)

Research findings are published in the journal Mulleria, a scientific representation of the work done in the Gardens in any one year. More recently, the Australian Research Centre for Urban Ecology has been established to look at plants which specifically grow in urban environments.

Common Correa (Correa reflexa)

Enfield Grevillea (Grevillea bedggoodiana)

The Royal Botanic Gardens, Cranbourne, established in 1970, was built on land was acquired by the Gardens on Melbourne’s south-eastern urban fringe for the purpose of establishing a garden dedicated to Australian plants.

Kawaka (Liboocedrus plumosa)

Opened to the public in 1989, this generally wild site is significant for biodiversity conservation and focuses solely on Australian native plants.

Liliaceae (Asparagus desiflorus Myersii)

Here’s the historical timeline of the gardens:

  • In 1846, Charles La Trobe selected the site for the Royal Botanic Gardens from marshland and swamp. Initially, much of the native wetlands and swamp lands in the gardens were left.
  • In 1857, botanist Ferdinand von Mueller, the first director, created the National Herbarium of Victoria and planted a range of species from around the world.
  • In 1873, Director William Guilfoyle added tropical and temperate plants and changed the style of the Gardens to something more like the picturesque gardens that were around at that time.
  • In 1877, Sir Edmund Barton, Australia’s first Prime Minister, and Jane Ross were married at the Royal Botanic Gardens.
  • Around the turn of the 20th century, the native wetlands and swamplands were re-landscaped to create the Ornamental Lake.
  • In 1924, a shooting massacre, resulting in the death of four people, occurred at the Gardens.
  • In August 2010, the prominent  Separation Tree, a 300-year-old River Red Gum under which Victoria was declared a separate colony, was attacked by vandals
  • In 2013, the Separation Tree was attacked again by vandals.
  • By 2015, the Separation tree was dead and removal of the canopy and branches commenced.
  • In June 2015, the Gardens brought together the elements of the organization under the name Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria. It incorporated Melbourne Gardens, Cranbourne Gardens, the National Herbarium of Victoria and the Australian Research Centre for Urban Ecology (ARCUE)

Marble Daisy Bush (Olearia astroloba)

Living collections at the Botanic Gardens include:

  • Australian Forest Walk
  • California Garden
  • Cacti and Succulents
  • Camellia Collection
  • Cycad Collection
  • Eucalypts
  • Fern Gully
  • Grey Garden
  • Herb Garden
  • Long Island
  • New Caledonia Collection
  • New Zealand Collection
  • Oak Lawn
  • Perennial Border
  • Roses
  • Southern China Collection
  • Tropical Display-Glasshouse
  • Viburnum Collection
  • Water Conservation Garden

Rose Pavilion

The gardens, including a mixture of native and non-native vegetation, invariably host a diverse range of both native and non-native fauna.

Rhamnaceae (Pomaderris subplicata)

Hosting over 10,000 floral species (the majority being non-native species), the gardens were the origin from which many introduced species spread throughout southeastern Australia.

Red Rod (Eremophila calorhabdos)

In the mid-19th century, seeds were traded between early European botanists studying the Australian flora.

Ian Potter Foundation Children’s Garden

The 5,000 sq. m. Ian Potter Foundation Children’s Garden, based in South Yarra, off the main site, was designed as a discovery area for children of all ages and abilities. For two months of the year (from the end of the Victorian July school holidays), this area is closed for rest and maintenance.

Running Postman (Kennedia Prostrata)

Royal Botanical Gardens: Spring St, East Melbourne VIC 3002, Australia. Open daily, 7:30 AM – 6:30PM.  Admission is free.

Shrine of Remembrance (Melbourne, Australia)

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Shrine of Remembrance

On our first day in Melbourne, we decided to visit the Shrine of Remembrance, commonly referred to as The Shrine and one of the largest war memorials in Australia.  Initially built to honor the men and women of Victoria who served in World War I, it now functions as a memorial to all Australians who have served in any war.  This war memorial is a site of annual observances for ANZAC Day (25 April) and Remembrance Day (11 November).

World War II Forecourt

We approached the shrine through the World War II Forecourt, a wide expanse of stone in front of the Shrine’s north face, designed by E. E. Milston and dedicated by Queen Elizabeth II on February 28, 1954, that commemorates the Australian war dead of the second great conflict. The Forecourt replaced a reflecting pool that had previously stood in front of the Shrine. It consists of the Eternal Flame, a permanent gas flame set just to the west of the north face; and the World War II Memorial, a 12.5 m. (41 ft.) high cenotaph a little further west.

Cenotaph

The surface of the cenotaph, built with Harcourt granite, is inscribed with the names of the defense forces, together with the theatres of war they served in. Atop it is a basalt sculpture, symbolizing “the debt of the living to the dead,” of six servicemen carrying a bier with a corpse, draped by the Australian flag.  The nearby Eternal Flame, representing eternal life, has burned continuously, with few interruptions, since it was first lit.

Eternal Flame

At the other side of the forecourt were three flagpoles comprising the Australian flag on the left, the Victorian flag in the middle and one of the flags of the three defense forces on the right. On special occasions, other flags may be flown, arranged according to strict protocols.

Inscriptions commemorating Australia’s involvement in Korea and Borneo

Australia’s involvements in later wars, such as the Korean War, the Borneo campaign (1945), the Malayan Emergency, the Indonesian Confrontation in North Borneo and Sarawak, the Vietnam War and the Gulf War, are commemorated by inscriptions.

The Shrine

The Shrine, built from granodiorite quarried from Tynong within Australia, was designed by Melbourne  architects and World War I veterans Phillip Hudson and James Wardrop who, among 83 entries, won (in December 1923) a competition, launched in March 1922, to find a design for the new memorial. On November 11, 1927, the shrine’s foundation stone was laid by the Governor of Victoria, Lord Somers and its construction was handled by the contractors Vaughan & Lodge.

The author, Jandy, Kyle and Grace at the Shrine of Remembrance

Although both the Victorian and Commonwealth governments made contributions, most of the (£160,000 cost (out of a total of £250,000; equating to about £ 9.4 million out of £ 14.7 million in 2019) of the Shrine was raised in less than six months by public contributions, with  General Sir John Monash as chief fundraiser (as an engineer, he also took personal charge of the construction).

Work was finally completed in September 1934 and, on November 11, 1934, the Shrine was officially dedicated by the Duke of Gloucester, witnessed by a crowd of over 300,000 people (a “massive turnout” given that Melbourne’s population at the time was approximately 1 million and, according to Carl Bridge, the “largest crowd ever to assemble in Australia to that date”).

Its Classical style is based on the ancient  Tomb of Mausolus at Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and the Parthenon in Athens, Greece.  This structure, of square plan, is roofed by a ziggurat-like stepped pyramid whose crowning element at the top references the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates.  It is entered on the north and south through classical porticos, each of eight fluted Doric columns supporting a pediment containing sculpture in high relief, and approached by wide flights of steps which rise in stages to the podium on which the Shrine sits.

Some of the statuary

The east and west facing fronts, marked at the corners by four groups of statuary by Paul Raphael Montford, representing Peace, Justice, Patriotism and Sacrifice whose symbolism is Neo-Classical, are in the Art Deco style and the motifs draw on Greek and Assyrian sculpture.

The outer stone balustrade, marking the Shrine’s external boundary, are surrounded by 16 stone “battle honors” discs representing the battle honors granted by King George V and commemorating Australia’s contributions to the Landing at Anzac (Gallipoli) and the battles of Sari Bair, Rumani, Gaza-Beersheba, the North Sea, the Cocos Islands, Megiddo, Damascus, Villers-Bretonneux, Amiens, Mont St Quentin, the Hindenburg Line, Ypres, Messines, Pozieres and Bullecourt.

The internal walls of the Shrine use sandstone from Redesdale while the black marble columns used stone from Buchan.

The Shrine originally consisted of the central sanctuary, a high vaulted space entered by four tall portals of Classical design, surrounded by an ambulatory or passage.  A simple entablature, carried on 16 tall fluted Ionic columns, supports a frieze with 12 relief panels sculpted by Lyndon Dadswell, depicting the armed services at work and in action during World War I.

A frieze with some of the reliefs panels

At the center of the sanctuary is the marble Stone of Remembrance (placed in the position where an Unknown Soldier might have been laid), sunk below the pavement so that visitors must bow their heads to read the engraved inscription on it which is the words “Greater love hath no man,” part of a verse from the Bible (John 15:13).

Stone of Remembrance

The Stone is aligned with an aperture in the roof of the Sanctuary so that, at 11 AM on Remembrance Day (November 11, marking the hour and day of the Armistice which ended World War I), a ray of sunlight shines through an aperture in the roof to light up the word “Love” in the inscription. However, since the introduction of daylight saving in Victoria, the ray of sunlight is no longer in the right place at 11 AM. Instead, a mirror has been installed to direct sunlight onto the Stone at 11 AM. During the rest of the year, a light is used to simulate the effect.

Book of Remembrance

Along the ambulatory are 42 bronze caskets containing hand-written, illuminated Books of Remembrance which list the names of every Victorian who enlisted for active service with the Australian Imperial Force (AIF) or Australian Naval and Military Expeditionary Force in World War I or died in camp prior to embarkation.

The Crypt

Beneath the sanctuary lies the Crypt which contains a bronze statue, in the center, of a soldier father and son, representing the two generations who served in the two world wars.

Jandy beneath the Bronze Statue of a Father and Son

Panels here list every unit of the Australian Imperial Force, down to battalion and regiment, along with the colors of their shoulder patch. The Crypt is also hung with the standards of various battalions and regiments, listing their battle honors.

Standards of various battalions and regiments

The space under the Shrine provided a large space for development and, at a planned cost of $5.5 million, a new development provided a visitor’s center, administration facilities, an improved access to the Shrine’s crypt, two new courtyards and place the new gallery under the northern steps.

Visitor’s Center

Construction of the 2 new courtyards and the gallery, designed by Melbourne architects Ashton Raggatt McDougall, commenced in 2002 and the new areas were opened in August 2003. In 2004, the Royal Australian Institute of Architects awarded the completed project the Victorian Architecture Medal.

Entrance Courtyard (Northeast, 2003) (2)

The austere and dramatic Entrance Courtyard (Northeast entry), the primary visitor entry, is emblazoned in a dried red blood color and employs key texts and emblems derived from histories of the Great War. One wall is inscribed with “Lest We Forget” while the other wall is inscribed with a quote from former Governor-General Sir William Deane.

Garden Courtyard (Northwest, 2003)

The Garden Courtyard, on the northwest, recalls the landscape of Europe and the Dardanelles and features a large, transplanted and multi-stemmed Legacy Olive Tree and surfaces and seating area derived from wharves and battlements of gun emplacements and trenches. Both courtyards were finished in Tynong Granite.

Education Courtyard

In 2014, an Education Center and the Galleries of Remembrance were added. A further two courtyards (Terrace Courtyard and Education Courtyard)were also added so that the two axes of symmetry of the original building are complemented by another two axes of symmetry on the diagonal.

The giant, floating red, steel and cloth poppy-shaped canopy

The “Galleries of Remembrance,” opened on Remembrance Day, displays a lifeboat from the ship SS Devanha, deployed during the landing at Anzac Cove at the start of the Gallipoli Campaign in 1915.

Lifeboat from the SS Devanha

The Education Courtyard, an arrival space for school groups, is shaded by a giant, floating red, steel and cloth poppy-shaped canopy over the amphitheater and acoustically softened with rubber seating terraces. A back lit map of the world, perforated with the dots and dashes of Morse Code, can be found on the walls. The floor surface pattern, executed in a period zig-zag ‘razzle dazzle’ camouflage, is derived from World War I battleships.

Terrace Courtyard (Southwest, 2014)

The Terrace Courtyard, a terraced, public courtyard that serves as an outdoor functions space for the returned service people, was designed to recall conflicts in South East Asia and the Pacific, has red wall tiling that names the Victorian towns from which soldiers came in World War II.

The red tiling with names of Victorian towns from which the soldiers came in World War II

Embedded into its concrete walls is the contemporary, pixelated camouflage used today by Australian soldiers.

The Gallery of Medals

The 40 m. (130 ft.) long Gallery of Medals displays around 4,000 medals (each symbolically representing 100 Victorians who have served in war and peacekeeping operations and six who have died). The Victoria Cross, awarded to Captain Robert Grieve during the Battle of Messines in 1917, was lent to the Shrine by Wesley College, Melbourne.

The Man With the Donkey

Away from the Shrine are a number of statues added in the surrounding parklands. “The Man with the Donkey,” representing John Simpson Kirkpatrick (although he was not named on the statue), officially is said to represent the “valor and compassion of the Australian soldier.”  Done by Wallace Anderson, it was installed in 1936 on the initiative of women who had funded a “Mother’s Tribute.”

Statue of The Driver

The bronze soldiers at the Driver and Wipers Memorial, commemorating the thousands of Australian lives lost during the fighting at Ypres (“Wipers” is the way servicemen pronounced “Ypres” during World War I), were done by the British sculptor Charles Sergeant Jagger.  Originally standing outside the Museum and State Library of Victoria in Melbourne, they were transferred to the Shrine in 1998.

Statue of The Wiper

The Driver, a recasting of one of the figures from the Royal Artillery Memorial in Hyde Park, London, UK, is a soldier holding a horse whip and bridles, wearing breeches (a protective legging), spurs and a steel helmet. The “Wipers” figure, a recasting, taken from the Hoylake and West Kirby War Memorial in Merseyside, UK, is a British infantry soldier standing guard with standard issue .303 rifle with a fixed bayonet, a German helmet at his feet.

The Remembrance Garden, added beneath the western face of the Shrine in 1985 to honor those who served during post-World War II conflicts, features a pool, waterfall and Harcourt granite wall bearing the names of the conflicts and peacekeeping operations in which Australia participated following World War II, such as Kuwait (Gulf War) and East Timor.

On July 19, 2008, the 92nd anniversary of the Battle of Fromelles, a replica of the 1998 sculpture, depicting Sergeant Simon Fraser, 57th Battalion, (a farmer from Byaduk, Victoria), rescuing a wounded compatriot from no man’s land after the battle, by Peter Corlett in the Australian Memorial Park, Fromelles was unveiled.

The cross-shaped Legacy Garden of Appreciation, near to the Shrine entrance and outlined by hedges, was established in 1978. This garden is planted with Red Flanders Poppies from seed originating from Villers-Bretonneux in France.  They flower in late spring. Widow and Children, a sculpture by Louis Laumen, was commissioned to mark the 75th anniversary of Legacy Australia in 1998.

Widow and Children

The Ex-Servicewomen’s Memorial Cairn (1985), relocated from the King’s Domain in 2010, is the focus of The Women’s Garden, north of the shrine, which incorporates concrete memorial violets within a grove of jacarandas.

Shrine of Remembrance: Birdwood Ave., Kings Domain, St Kilda Road, Melbourne, Victoria, 3001, Australia. Open daily, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission is free.

Melbourne Airport (Australia)

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Melbourne Airport

Our gateway for our week long visit to Melbourne was to be Melbourne Airport (IATA: MEL, ICAO: YMML), colloquially known as Tullamarine Airport.  After an 8-hour, non-stop flight from NAIA Terminal 3, it was almost midnight when our Cebu Pacific Airbus A321 plane landed in this airport’s Terminal 2 (one of the airports four terminals) which handles all international, and limited domestic, flights out of Melbourne Airport.

Cheska, Grace, Bryan and Jandy

The terminal has 20 gates with aero bridges. On arrival, we streamed on to the first floor to connect with the current first floor arrivals deck. Departures take place on the lower deck (similar to the A380 boarding lounges currently in use at Gates 9 and 11).  All gates, including 18 and 20, are now handling passengers.

Cathay Pacific, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Singapore Airlines, Air New Zealand and Emirates all operate airline lounges in this terminal. The terminal contains works by noted Australian Indigenous artists including Daisy Jugadai Napaltjarri and Gloria Petyarre.

Here are some interesting trivia regarding this international airport:

  • It is the primary airport serving the city of Melbourne
  • Melbourne is the second busiest airport in Australia for passenger movements, behind Sydney and ahead of Brisbane.
  • It opened in 1970 to replace the nearby Essendon Airport (which was officially designated an international airport in 1950).
  • Melbourne Airport is the main international airport of the four airports serving the Melbourne metropolitan area, the other international airport being Avalon Airport.
  • The airport comprises four terminals: one international terminal, two domestic terminals and one budget domestic terminal.
  • The airport has its own suburb and postcode—Melbourne Airport, Victoria (postcode 3045).
  • In 2016-17, Melbourne Airport recorded around 25 million domestic passenger movements and around 10 million international passenger movements. In that year there were 239,466 aircraft movements in total.
  • The Melbourne–Sydney air route is the third most-traveled passenger air route in the world.
  • The airport features direct flights to 33 domestic destinations and to destinations in the Pacific, Europe, Asia, North America and South America.
  • Melbourne Airport is the number one arrival/departure point for the airports of four of Australia’s eight other capital cities.
  • Melbourne serves as a major hub for Qantas and Virgin Australia, while Jetstar Airways and Tigerair Australia utilize the airport as home base.
  • Domestically, Melbourne serves as headquarters for Australian airExpress and Toll Priority and handles more domestic freight than any other airport in the nation.
  • Melbourne Airport, originally called Melbourne International Airport, is commonly referred to as Tullamarine or simply as Tulla to distinguish the airport from the other three Melbourne airports: Avalon, Essendon and Moorabbin.
  • Tullamarine is a name derived from the indigenous name Tullamareena.
  • Melbourne Airport is categorized as a Leased Commonwealth Airport.
  • The airport was the first in Australia to be capable of handling the A380.
  • It the first airport in Australia to receive, in 2004, an ISO 14001 accreditation, the world’s best practice standard.
  • The Melbourne FIR center controls 6% of the world’s airspace (Victoria, Tasmania, southern New South Wales, most of South Australia, the southern half of Western Australia and airspace over the Indian and Southern Ocean).
  • The airport is the home of the Canberra, Adelaide and Melbourne approach facilities, which provide control services to aircraft arriving and departing at those airports.
  • The airport is curfew-free and operates 24 hours a day (although, between 2 AM and 4 AM, freight aircraft are more prevalent than passenger flights).

Jandy and the author

Here’s the historical timeline of the airport:

  • In February 1958, the search for a replacement for Essendon commenced when a panel was appointed to assess Melbourne’s civil aviation needs.
  • In 1959, the Commonwealth Government acquired 5,300 ha. (13,000 acres) of grassland in then-rural Tullamarine.
  • In May 1959 it was announced that a new airport would be built at Tullamarine
  • On November 27, 1962, Prime Minister Robert Menzies announced a five-year plan to provide Melbourne with a A$45 million “jetport” by 1967.
  • In November 1964, the first sod at Tullamarine was turned. In line with the five-year plan, the runways at Essendon were expanded to handle larger aircraft
  • In October 1964, Ansett Australia launched the Boeing 727 there, the first jet aircraft used for domestic air travel in Australia.
  • On July 1, 1970, Prime Minister John Gorton opened Melbourne Airport to international operations ending Essendon’s near two decade run as Melbourne’s international airport. Essendon still was home to domestic flights for one year.  On opening, Melbourne Airport consisted of three connected terminals: International in the centre, with Ansett to the South and Trans Australia Airlines to the North. The design capacity of the airport was eight Boeing 707s at a rate of 500 passengers per hour.
  • On June 26, 1971, Essendon’s airport operations was transferred to Melbourne Airport with the first arrival of a Boeing 747 occurring later that year. In the first year of operations, Melbourne handled six international airlines and 155,275 international passengers.
  • In 1973, minor expansion works was completed allowing Boeing 747s to serve the airport.
  • By the late 1980s, peak passenger flows at the airport had reached 900 per hour, causing major congestion.
  • In 1988, the Australian Government formed the Federal Airports Corporation(FAC), placing Melbourne Airport under the operational control of the new corporation along with 21 other airports around the nation.
  • In 1989, expansion of the Ansett domestic terminal was approved
  • In 1991, the expansion was completed with the addition of a second pier for use by smaller regional airlines.
  • In 1991, work on an upgrade of the international terminal commenced.
  • In 1992, Terminal 1 passed to Qantas when it acquired Trans Australia Airlines.
  • In late 1993, the ‘SkyPlaza’ retail complex was completed on a site flanking the main international departure gates.
  • In April 1994, the Australian Government announced that all airports operated by FAC would be privatized in several phases.Melbourne Airport was included in the first phase, being acquired by the newly formed Australia Pacific Airports Corporation Limited for $1.3 billion.
  • Between 1995 and August 1997, the multi-storey carpark outside the terminal was completed at a cost of $49 million, providing 3,100 parking spaces, the majority undercover. This initially four-level structure replaced the previous open air car park outside the terminal.
  • On June 30, 1997, the transfer was completed on a 50-year long-term lease, with the option for a further 49 years.
  • In 1995, the new three-level satellite concourse was opened at the end of the existing concourse. Diamond shaped and measuring 80 m. (260 ft.) on each side, the additional 10 aerobridges provided by the expansion doubled the international passenger handing capacity at Melbourne Airport.
  • In October 1997, improvements on the original Terminal 1 commenced.
  • In January 1999, work commenced on the six-storey, 276-room Hilton Hotel (now Park Royal) above the car park
  • In late 1999, improvements on the Qantas domestic terminal (Terminal 1), featuring a second pier, stands for 9 additional aircraft, an extended access roadway and the expansion of the terminal, was completed at a cost of $50 million.
  • In mid-2000, the Hilton Hotel was completed at a cost of $55 million.
  • In December 2000, the Domestic Express Terminal (the first passenger terminal facility to be built at Melbourne Airport since 1971), located to the south of the main terminal building and built at a cost of $9 million, was opened.
  • In 2004, revenue from retail operations at Melbourne Airport broke the $100 million mark for the first time this being a 100% increase in revenue since the first year of privatization.
  • In 2004, the expansion of car parks continued with a $40 million project commenced, doubling the size of the short term carpark with the addition of 2,500 spaces over six levels, along with 1,200 new spaces added to the 5,000 already available in the long term car park.
  • In 2005, the airport undertook construction works to prepare the airport for the arrival of the double-decker Airbus A380. The main work was the widening of the main north–south runway by 15 m. (49 ft.)
  • In May 2005, over a 29-day period, the improvements were completed. It included the construction of dual air bridges (Gates 9 and 11) with the ability to board both decks simultaneously to reduce turnaround times, the extension of the international terminal building by 20 m. (66 ft.) to include new penthouse airline lounges, and the construction of an additional baggage carousel in the arrivals hall.
  • On June 5, 2008, it was announced that the airport would install a Category III landing system (the first of its kind in Australia), allowing planes to land in low visibility conditions, such as fog.
  • In July 2005, the current terminal numbering system was introduced. Previously, they were known as Qantas Domestic, International and South (formerly Ansett Domestic).
  • On November 14, 2005, the A380 made its first test flight into the airport.
  • In March 2006, the airport undertook a 5,000 sq. m. (54,000 sq. ft.) expansion of Terminal 2, and the construction of an additional level of airline lounges above the terminal.
  • In June 2007, a A$5 million refit for Terminal 4 began along the lines of the budget terminal model at Singapore Changi Airport and Kuala Lumpur International Airport.
  • In 2008, a further 25,000 sq. m. (270,000 sq. ft.) expansion of Terminal 2 commenced, costing $330 million.
  • On November 23, 2007, Tiger Airways Australia operated its first domestic flight at Terminal 4.
  • On May 15, 2008, the A380 made its first passenger flight into the airport when a Singapore Airlines Sydney-bound flight was diverted from Sydney Airport because of fog.
  • Beginning in October 2008, Qantas became the first airline to operate the A380 from the airport, flying nonstop to Los Angeles International Airport twice a week. This was the inaugural route for the Qantas A380.
  • On March 2010, the new, $10 million Category III landing system was commissioned.
  • In 2011, the expansion of Terminal 2, adding 5 additional aero bridges on a new passenger concourse, and a new 5,000 sq. m. (54,000 sq. ft.) outbound passenger security and customs processing zone, was completed.
  • In March 2012, airport officials broke ground for the expansion of Terminal 4 facilities to accommodate Tiger Airways Australia and Jetstar Airways flights
  • On August 18, 2015, the new Terminal 4 was opened.
  • In November 2015, Jetstar moved into Terminal 4.

Melbourne Airport’s terminals have 53 domestic and 15 international gates plus five dedicated freighter parking positions (which host 21 dedicated freighter operations a week) on the Southern Freighter Apron.  This airport is located 23 kms. (14 mi.) northwest of the city centre, adjacent to the suburb of Tullamarine, and is accessible via the Tullamarine Freeway.

Terminal 1, hosting domestic and regional services for Qantas Group airlines, Qantas and QantasLink (which is located to the northern end of the building), has a Qantas Club, Business Class and a chairman’s lounge; a wide range of shops and food outlets (situated at the end of the terminal near the entrance into Terminal 2); 16 parking bays served by aero bridges (12 are served by single aero bridges whilst four are served by double aero bridges); and five non-aero bridge gates (used by QantasLink).Departures are located on the first floor, while arrivals are located on the ground floor.

Terminal 3 opened with the airport as the Ansett Australia terminal, is now owned by Melbourne Airport. Terminal 3 is home to Virgin Australia (three gates are dedicated to it) and has eleven parking bays served by single aero bridges and eight parking bays not equipped with aero bridges.

 

Terminal 4, originally called the Domestic Express or South Terminal, was originally constructed for Virgin Blue (formerly Virgin Australia, it eventually moved into Terminal 3 following the demise of Ansett) and Impulse Airlines. It is dedicated to budget airlines and is the first facility of its kind at a conventional airport in Australia.

Due to the basic facilities, lack of jet bridges, and fewer amenities and retail outlets compared to a conventional terminal, lower landing and airport handling fees are charged to airlines. Unlike in Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, however, this terminal is located next to the main terminal building. The new, 35,000 sq. m. (380,000 sq. ft.) Terminal 4, currently used by Tigerair Australia, Regional Express Airlines, Jetstar (now has triple the number of gates it had at Terminal 1) and Airnorth, is and linked “under one roof” with Terminal 3.

This airport has won national and state tourism awards namely:

  • In 1997 and 1998, the International Air Transport Association ranked Melbourne among the top five airports in the world.
  • In 2002 and 2004, respectively, Singapore Airlines presented the airport with the Service Partner Award and Premier Business Partner Award.
  • In 2003, Melbourne received the IATA’s Eagle Award for service and two National Tourism Awards for tourism services.
  • In 2006, the airport won the Australian Construction Achievement Award for the runway widening project (dubbed “the most outstanding example of construction excellence for 2006”).
  • In 2012, Parkroyal Melbourne Airport was awarded by Skytrax for the best airport hotel in Australia/the Pacific. According to Skytrax World’s Top 100 Airports List, Melbourne Airport has improved from ranked 43rd in 2012 to 27th in 2018.

Melbourne Airport has two intersecting runways: one 3,657 m (11,998 ft) north–south and one 2,286 m (7,500 ft) east–west. In addition to the onsite control tower, the airport is home to Melbourne Center, an air traffic control facility that is responsible for the separation of aircraft in Australia’s busiest flight information region (FIR), Melbourne FIR.

One freeway off ramp runs directly into the airport grounds, and a second to the south serves freight transport, taxis, buses and airport staff. It also has five car parks, all of which operate 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. As of 2019, there is no railway connection between the airport and the city.

Melbourne Airport is served by four hotels – the six-storey, 280-room Parkroyal Hotel (originally a Hilton but  relaunched as the Parkroyal on April 4, 2011), located 100 m. (330 ft.) from Terminal 2 atop the multi-level carpark; Holiday Inn, located 400 m. (1,300 ft.) from the terminal precinct; Ibis Budget, located 600 m. (2,000 ft.) from the terminals; and Mantra Tullamarine, located 2 kms. (1.2 mi.) from the terminal precinct.

Melbourne Airport: Victoria 3045, Australia. Tel: +61 3 9297 1600. Website: www.melbourneairport.com.au.

Nung Chan Monastery (Taipei, Taiwan)

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Nung Chan Monastery

After our one-hour tour of Beitou Thermal Valley, we again boarded our tourist bus for the short 3.7-km. (10 min.) drive to Nung Chan Monastery.  Dropping off at Lane 65, Vincent Chen, our Eagle Tours guides, accompanied us as we walked, for 10 mins., to the entrance of the monastery.  Though it stopped raining, the skies were still overcast when we arrived.

Check out “Beitou Thermal Valley”

Touring the monastery grounds

The Nung Chan Monastery (meaning ‘Farming Ch’an‘), formally founded in 1975, is situated on 10,000 sq. m. (2.5 acres) of land acquired in the end of the 1960s by Master Dong Chu, a scholar monk and disciple of renowned Chinese Buddhist Master Taixu.

The Original Farmhouse

Located at the vast Guandu Plain, facing the Keelung River and leaning against the Datun Mountain, near Taipei, it is part of the umbrella organization called Dharma Drum Mountain. The monastery offers meditation instruction in English and holds regular meditation meetings.

Main Buddha Hall

Since 1975, to accommodate the growing number of devotees and monks living there, there have been various expansions and renovations on the site. The new, simple, tastefully designed main buildings, designed by Taiwanese Architect Kris Yao Ren-Xi of Artech Architects, were designed and constructed from 2010 – 2012 in a manner befitting a monastery.

The massive interior wooden wall with the Heart Sutra, in Chinese characters

The monastery has two walls, of different lengths, which provide the monastery an appropriate buffer against the bustling city. Circling around the walls, our view opened up towards a serene courtyard with an 80 m. long lotus pond as its main focus. On the left is the two- storey, 330 sq. m. (3,600 sq. ft.) farmhouse, started in 1971 by Master Dong Chu and completed in 1975.

The jade statue of the Buddha sitting in the lotus posture on the Sumeru throne

The simple, serene and solid Main Buddha Hall, in the middle, features an upper wooden box with a transparent lower half, giving the impression that it is suspended in the air. Inside is a white jade statue of the Buddha, sitting in the lotus posture on the Sumeru throne. There was a service ongoing when we arrived, so we weren’t allowed to enter the hall.

The ongoing service within the spartan interior

Carved into the massive interior wooden wall, on the west side, is the famous “Heart Sutra,” in Chinese characters, which presents the Scriptures in hollow form.

The front colonnade

The sunshine shines through the carved-out scriptures on the other side, filling the interior space with reflections. The hall is linked, via double height corridors, to the meditation hall, dining hall, and monk’s living quarters.

The Water Moon Pool

The large Water-Moon Pool, with its smaller lotus pond, is located in front of the Main Buddha Hall.  The pond is flanked by a main circulation route and a covered corridor.  A focal feature of the center’s landscape, the pool reflects Main Buddha Hall and Corridor, the clouds and the sky like a mirror when still, helping the overall aesthetic elements and providing a nice background for photographs.

The L-shaped building

The façade of an L-shaped building, on the right, is inscribed with over 5,000 characters of the Diamond Sutra, an important sutra of the Chan School.

The Diamond Sutra facade

The Way to Compassion, originally the main entrance of Nung Chan Monastery, was built in 1982 by Master Sheng Yen to demarcate the Monastery grounds. The Chan Hall has a sitting statue of Shakyamuni Buddha.

The Connection Corridor, extending along the Water-Moon Pool to the Main Buddha Hall and Chan Hall, demarcates space while permitting light to enter.

Its two walls of exposed concrete form a serene space.   It was already starting to rain when we departed the monastery grounds to return to our bus.

The author

Nung Chan Monastery: No. 89, Lane 65, Daye Rd., Beitou District, Taipei, Taiwan. Tel:  886-2-2893-3161.  E-mail: jktie@ddm.org.tw.   Website:  www.ncm.ddm.org.tw.

Eagle Tours: +886-910-130-180 (Mr. Vincent Chen) and +886-932-013-880 (Ms. Joyce Chen).

How to Get There: 

Take bus #218, #266 or #302 to the Da-Ye-Lu-Yi Stop, and then walk straight down Lane 65 for about 10 minutes.  Via MRT, take the Danshui Line to Qiyan Station, turn left and walk down Sanhe Street until you reach Daye Road, turn left, pass the Volkswagen service center, and walk until you hit Lane 65. By car, take Daye Road and park at the Monastery’s parking lot.

Beitou Thermal Valley (Taipei, Taiwan)

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The steaming, jade-colored waters of Beitou Thermal Valley

It was raining heavily when we departed Yangming Park for the short 6.6-km. (15 min.) drive to Beitou Thermal Valley, a valley located on the foothill of Yangmingshan National Park.

Hotels, resorts and inns on a hillside within the valley

It is one of the sources of acidic sulfur hot spring in the area and, historically, was considered as one of the eight attractions and one the “12 great sights of Taiwan” during the Period of Japanese Occupation.

Stalls selling street food and souvenir items

Xinbeitou Village occupies a lush valley that is home to 1200 species of plants, 110 species of birds and 160 varieties of butterflies.

Check out “Yangmingshan National Park“

Guide Map

The park is a good place to relax or go for a stroll. The rain stopped when we arrived at the resort area.

Souvenir Shop/Cafe

Walking along a boardwalk, past a souvenir shop (with a café inside selling hot and cold drinks), we could already feel the temperature rise (having the highest temperatures of any in the Datunshan volcano group, the highest temperature of the springs here ranges from 80-100℃).

We also noticed an eerie sulfuric steam rising from the surface of the bubbling, green-tinted pond which blankets the Thermal Valley year-round. Playing around in the breeze, the steam gave the valley a surreal sulfuric atmosphere and a frightening quality, which has given rise to nicknames such as “Ghost Lake” and “Hell Valley.”

In the past, visitors were once allowed to soak their feet at certain points as well as boil eggs in the hot springs.  Both practices have since been prohibited, not only to protect the water quality but also to keep tourists from falling in and boiling themselves.

A small waterfall

Located beside Beitou Hot Spring Park, the spring water here is high in the radioactive element Radium which, in the past, underwent a corrosive reaction with andesite  rocks on the river bed about 150 meters downstream, creating layers of rare, cream and white diamond-shaped crystals called hokutolite (named after Hokuto, the Japanese name for Beitou), also known as Anglesobarite or Beitou rocks, the only mineral in the world to be named after a region of Taiwan. They can only naturally be found in only two places: Beitou and Tamagawa (Akita Prefecture, Japan).

A glass-encased hokutolite rock sample

To ensure the protection of these natural rarities, the “Beitou Rock Conservation Area” has been established in recent years. Thus, visitors to the Thermal Valley not only get to experience “hell,” but also gain insight into some rare radioactive rocks. Its mineral water also contains Plaster, Alunite, Jarosite, Realgar and  Sulfur and its pH value is between 1.4~1.6.   As sodium carbonate tend to be highly acidic and corrosive, the springs have also been called the “Green sulfur springs” and “Sulfur heads.”

The author at Beitou Thermal Valley

Today, the main source of the “white sulfur” hot spring water used in Beitou hot spring establishments is the Liuhuanggu and Longfenggu thermal valleys located further uphill in Yangmingshan National Park.

Beauty Age Hotel

Beitou Thermal Valley: Beitou District, Taipei, Taiwan.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 5 PM.

How to Get There: The only metro-accessible hot spring in Taiwan, a two-station line connects Xinbeitou, Taipei City’s only hot spring village, to Beitou station on the Danshui line. From Taipei’s Main Station, go north on the Red Line, to Beitou. Once there, change to the Pink Line by going downstairs and back up again on the other side of the platform and take it one stop to Xinbeitou (New Beitou).

 

Yangmingshan National Park (Taipei, Taiwan)

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Yangming Park

From Dihua Street, we again boarded our bus for the short 12-km. (25-min.) drive to Yangming Park, one of the first stops that visitors often make while exploring Yangmingshan National Park.  According to Vincent Chen, our Eagle Tour guide, the park is the place to observe Formosan cherry blossoms (Prunus campanulata), the native cherry trees of Taiwan.

They usually flower in late February through middle of March, earlier than the sakura of Tokyo owing to the fact that Taiwan enjoys a subtropical climate (the rule of nature is that cherry trees flower earlier at hotter places).

Yangming Park Map

The 1.07 sq. km. park contains a Chinese-style garden with elegant buildings, pavilions kiosks, streams, fountains and ponds for visitors to relax and enjoy the cooler climate. Aside from cherry blossoms, some unique flora within and around the park include azaleas, camellias, peach blossoms, thorn apples and plum blossoms, all changing with the seasons (they bloom from December through April and this time period is known as the Flower Festival).

Yangmingshan National Park, next to Shamao Mountain and Qixing Mountain with Datun Mountain on the right and Guanyin Mountain in front, is the only park in Taiwan that has volcanic geography and hot springs. Called Caoshan (Grass Mountain) during Japanese occupation of Taiwan (because it was covered with grass and seldom visited), after World War II, the KMT government renamed the mountain Yangmingshan and built a park here designed in traditional Chinese style.

Today, the magnificent mountainous scenery, natural beauty and comfortable weather have made Yangmingshan National Park a perfect summer resort and has won it the reputation as an urban forest and Taipei’s garden.

 

Near the western entrance to the park is a large, 13-m. (22 ft.) diameter clock, a large garden artwork made with flowers built around a timepiece provided by Swiss luxury watch maker Rado. Started in 1965, it was formally opened to the public in 1969.  Water runs around the flower clock and music is played every hour.

Flower Clock.  In the background is Chihsingshan, the highest mountain of the Tatun Volcano Group

Opposite the clock is a statue of the late president Chiang Kai-Shek.  On both sides of the statue are cypress trees planted by president Chiang himself. Right in the center of the park is the Xinhai Guangfu Building, at the northern edge of the park behind the Dragon Zone and cherry blossom gardens.

Xinhai Guangfu Building

Completed in 1971 in Northern Chinese palace style of architecture, it commemorates the Xinhai Revolution. In addition, there is a statue of Wang Yangming, the famous Chinese scholar in the 17th century.

President Chiang Kai Shek Statue

Yangmingshan National Park: Jhuzihhu Rd., Beitou District,Yangmingshan,Taipei City 11292, Taiwan.  Tel: 886-2-2861-3601.

Eagle Tours: +886-910-130-180 (Mr. Vincent Chen) and +886-932-013-880 (Ms. Joyce Chen).

How to Get There:

  • Take the THSR or train to Taipei Station, continue by Royal Bus (bound for Jinshan) to the Yangmingshan National Park Administration.
  • Take the MRT to Jiantan Station, continue by Bus Red-5 to Yangmingshan stop. Then take Bus No. 108 to Tourist Center stop.
  • Take the THSR or train to Taipei Station, continue by Bus No. 260 to Yangmingshan stop. Then take Bus No. 108 to Tourist Center stop.

There are some buses that start from an earlier bus stop. Once you alight at Yangmingshan bus terminal, look for the bus 125 with the “Flower Clock” sign. It is roughly 10 minutes bus ride, NT15 one way.

Xia-Hai City God Temple (Taipei, Taiwan)

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Xia-hai City God Temple

The lively and well-loved Taipei Xia-Hai City God Temple, a temple built in 1859 to house the statue of Xia Hai Cheng Huang, the City God God which was brought over from Xia Cheng, Tong An County, Fujian province, China.  The losers in the Wanhua feud took this as they fled upstream.  Still maintained by a single family to the present day, the temple’s construction and development is closely connected to the history of local residents who migrated from Tong’an County, Fujian.  In 1985, the Ministry of the Interior designated the site as a Historical Monument.

Despite currently having a 160 year old history in its current location, it is not the oldest temple in Taipei (the Mengjia Longshan Temple is older).  However, unlike the other “older” temples which have had to be completely rebuilt on a few occasions, this one is still the same one you would have seen in 1859 when it was first built, although it has undergone a few renovations over the years.

Each and every day, this temple, one of the busiest places of worship in the city, is constantly jam-packed, both inside and outside, by thousands of people who pray for peace, love and happiness. Tourists, on the other hand, visit to learn more about the city and its history from people who work and volunteer in the temple.  They speak a number of languages (Mandarin, English, and Japanese) and are well-versed in explaining its history and, more importantly, how to properly pray and show respect to the City God.

Learning about this place is quite a lot easier than almost all of the other larger temples in the city because the temple provides reading materials to guests free of charge. The temple’s website also has a step-by-step guide on how to pray to the deities.

Worshipers lighting incense sticks at a censer outside

Little has changed since those days. The temple, close to the Dadao Theater and the Yongle Market in the section of Dihua Street, is a terrific spot to witness folk-worship rituals as well as admire some gorgeous pieces of traditional arts and crafts.

Check out “Dihua Street and Dadaocheng Walking Tour“

Built in the traditional Minnan (southern Chinese) architectural style which can be seen in its curved lines and emphasis on ornamentation, the temple’s decoration includes pottery figures, murals, paintings, mosaic-like cut-and-paste porcelain (jiǎnnián), and Koji ceramics.

The temple houses over six hundred deities, introduced in clear English signs, in its 152 sq. m. (46 ping) of area, resulting in the highest statue density in Taiwan. Some of the temple’s outstanding decorative pieces, aside from the City God, include the Matchmaker (said to have brought together thousands of couples)

The City God’s wife, known as a Chinese Cupid enshrined in 1971, is the recipient of devotees’ pleas concerning affairs of the heart. There are free sweet herbal teas at the temple lobby and recently engaged or married couples usually leave some cookies here.

In the main hall, just before the altar, are clay sculptures showing a man on an elephant holding a pike and chime and another showing a man riding a lion while holding a flag and ball

On the 14th day of the fifth lunar month, the City God’s birthday, features a procession, stretching over a kilometer, of teams from dozens of temples around Taipei send here to entertain the City God in festivities that last five days and gets going around 2 to 3 PM. The performances include lion dances, god dances and martial arts displays.

Taipei Xia-Hai City God Temple: No. 61, Section 1, Dihua Street, Dadaocheng, Datong District,  Taipei, Taiwan.  Tel: +886 2 2558 0346. E-mail: Ing.tai.wu@gmail.com.  Open daily, 6 AM – 9 PM.  Admission is free.

How to Get There: Bus: No. 9, 12, 250, 274, 304 or 9 to Yanping; 811 or R33 to Dihua St.; 206, 250, 255, 274, 304, 518, 539, 639, 641, 669 or 704 to Nanjing W. Rd. Via MRT: from Shuanglian Station, take the Red 33 bus to Dihua Street.