Versailles Palace – Grand Gallery (France)

Visitor headed for the Hall of Mirrors from the Salon of War

The Grand Gallery (Grande Galerie) is a set of three highly decorated reception rooms, dedicated to the celebration of the political and military successes of Louis XIV, and used for important ceremonies, celebrations and receptions.The grandiose ensemble of the Hall of Mirrors, and the adjoining Salon of War and Salon of Peace, were intended to illustrate the power of the absolutist monarch Louis XIV.

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Both salons are accessible, via the Hall of Mirrors, through wide opening passageways. The Hall and the two Salons, identically furnished and decorated, form a stylistic and functional unit. The exterior walls of the Salons date from the time of Louis Le Vau‘s encasings of the old château. They were given their current appearance after the installation of the Hall of Mirrors by Jules Hardouin-Mansart.

Hall of Mirrors

The vaunted  Hall of Mirrors (Galerie des Glaces), perhaps the most celebrated room in the château of Versailles, was the setting for many of the ceremonies of the French Court during the Ancien Régime. It has inspired numerous copies and renditions throughout the world and the Proclamation of the German Empire occurred here.

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Salon of War

The Salon of War (Salon de la Guerre), commemorating the victorious military campaign of Louis XIV against the Dutch, Spanish and Germans  (which ended in 1678 with the peace treaties of Nijmegen), was begun by Jules Hardouin-Mansart (the First Architect to the King) in 1678 and its decoration was completed by Le Brun in 1686. Its walls are covered with marble panels decorated with six trophies of weapons in gilded bronze.

Sculpted Medallion of Louis XIV

Its centerpiece, on the wall adjacent to the Apollo Room , is an enormous oval sculpted medallion, created by Antoine Coysevox, surmounted by two golden sculptures of Pheme and supported by two captives in chains huddle beneath it.

Golden Sculptures of Pheme

A bas-relief, in stucco, depicts Louis XIV on horseback, trampling on his enemies while crossing the Rhine in 1672. Beneath, concealing the opening of a false chimney of a fake fireplace, is the bas-relief of Clio, the Muse of History, recording the king’s great deeds and exploits for posterity.

Bas-relief of Clio, the Muse of History

The dome cupola ceiling represents, in the center, a personified depiction of France, armed, sitting on a cloud and surrounded by Victories, a portrait of Louis XIV adorning her shield.

Ceiling painting

In the arches are represented his three defeated enemiesGermany (represented by a kneeling eagle), Spain making threats with a roaring lion; and Holland overthrown on another lion. The fourth arch represents Bellona, the Goddess of War, in a rage of fury between Rebellion and Discord.

Fresco at the arch

The Salon of Peace (Salon de la Paix), symmetrical to the Salon of War, contains the same marble panel decoration and chased trophies of weapons of gilded and chiseled bronzes. However, Le Brun decorated the cupola and arches to illustrate the role of France as the arbiter and peacemaker of Europe under Louis XV. The painting on the ceiling, Louis XV offering an olive branch to Europe by François Lemoyne, illustrates the theme of peace.

Salon of Peace – Louis XV offering an olive branch to Europe (François Lemoyne)

From the beginning of Louis XIV’s reign, this room was separated from the Hall of Mirrors by a movable partition and was considered part of the Queen’s Apartment, constituting the final room after the Queen’s Chamber. However, when required, the partition separating the room from the Hall of Mirrors was removed and the room formed part of the King’s State Apartment.

Each Sunday, during the reign of Louis XV, Marie Leszczyńska, the Queen, used this salon as a music room, organizing concerts of secular and religious music, playing an important role in musical life in Versailles and which were continued, during the subsequent reign, by Marie-Antoinette.

Hall of Mirrors: Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1)from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com.

Versailles Palace – State Apartments of the King (France)

Salon of Mercury

The State Apartments of the King, a prestigious series of seven rooms (Salon of Hercules, Salon of Diana, Salon of Abundance, Salon of Venus, Salon of Mars, Salon of Mercury and Salon of Apollo), was used as a parade apartment for hosting the sovereign’s official acts. Bedecked with lavish Italian-style decoration much admired by the king at the time, it was composed of marble panelling and painted ceilings.

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The author at the Salon of Hercules

During the day, the State Apartment was open to all who wished to see the king and the royal family passing through on their way to the chapel. Several times a week, during the reign of Louis XIV, evening gatherings were held here.

Salon of Abundance

The State Apartments were originally intended as the King’s residence. The construction of the Hall of Mirrors, between 1678 and 1686, coincided with a major alteration to the State Apartment and the King transformed them into galleries for his finest paintings, and venues for his many receptions for courtiers usually held three times a week, from six to ten in the evening, with various entertainments during the season from All-Saints Day in November until Easter.

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The Salon of Hercules

From the Royal Chapel, we entered a vestibule that led us to the Salon of Hercules, the last room to be built by Louis XIV at the end of his reign.  Originally a chapel covering two floors, it served until 1710 when it was replaced by the current Royal Chapel.  Beginning in 1712, it was rebuilt, under the supervision of the First Architect of the King, Robert de Cotte.

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Jandy at the Salon of Hercules

To create a new room, a floor was laid but the decoration was not finished until the reign of Louis XV who, in 1730, brought the huge painting by Paolo Veronese, The Meal in the House of Simon the Pharisee, to Paris from the Gobelins, where it had been stored since its arrival in France as a gift from the Republic of Venice to Louis XIV in 1664.

Rebecca at the Well (Paolo Veronese, second half of the 16th century)

In 1736, work on the Hercules Room was completed when The Apotheosis of Hercules (after whom the room was named), a ceiling painting by François Lemoyne was finished.

Apotheosis of Hercules (François Le Moyne)

This vast, impressive and allegorical work, considered at par with masterpieces by Italian fresco painters, depicted no fewer than 142 persons and was created using the marouflage technique wherein the scenes were painted on canvas and then stuck onto the ceiling.

Meal in the House of Simon the Pharisee (Paolo Veronese, 1570)

In return for his work, Lemoyne was made First Painter to the King by Louis XV but he committed suicide a year later, in 1737, exhausted by this huge project which had taken four years to complete.

Salon of Abundance

The Salon of Abundance, a refreshment room where coffee, wines and liqueurs were served on an elegant tables and gilded chairs lined with green velvet during evening soirées, was also the antechamber to the Cabinet of Curios or Room of Rare Objects (now the Games Room of the King or le salon de jeux du roi) which could be entered through the end door.

Goddesses of Abundance and Liberality (René-Antoine Houasse, 1683)

It displayed Louis XIV’s collection of precious jewels, silverware vases, medallions and other rare objects (of which nothing remains) which he liked to show his privileged guests.  The room was restored in 1955.

The Duke of Burgundy (Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1704)

Portrait of King Louis XV (Hyacinthe Rigaud)

These served as a source of inspiration for the decoration of René-Antoine Houasse‘s painting Goddesses of Abundance and Liberality (1683) located on the ceiling over the door opposite the windows. It includes a depiction of the King’s Vessel over the door.

Portrait of King Philip V(left) and Portrait of Louis of France, Dauphin (right), both done by Hyacinthe Rigaud.

The precious King’s Vessel,  in the form of a mastless ship which was placed on the king’s table during important occasions or on the sideboard,  contained the sovereign’s serviette and was a symbol of power which had to be hailed by everyone who passed by.

Salon of Venus

Along with the Salon of Diana, the Salon of Venus, because it was at the top of the great staircase known as the “Ambassadors’ Staircase,” is one of the main entrances used by courtiers to get to the King and Queen’s Grand Apartments. Prior to it being destroyed in 1752 to make more room, the Ambassador’s Staircase ended here. Like some of the other rooms, this room was named after a planet, following a running theme linked to sun mythology which inspired the decoration in Versailles during the 1670s.

Statue of Louis XiV (Jean Warin)

The Salon of Venus was used during so-called “evening soirees” (social gatherings for specially invited courtiers) when the salon was lit by two very large chandeliers and eight smaller chandeliers of crystal and filled with small tables, chairs lined with green velvet and laced with gold, and either huge bouquets of flowers or pyramids of rare, exotic fruit such as oranges and lemons. Sometimes, light meals such as marzipan and crystallized fruit were served.

Ceiling frescos

Featuring the highest level of the Baroque style of all the state apartments, it is the only place where Charles Le Brun created dialogue between the architecture, sculptures and paintings (sometimes real and sometimes fake) such as the marble pilasters and columns created through perspective paintings by Jacques Rousseau, and the two trompe l’oeil , life-size statues of Louis XIV (in the costume of a Roman emperor) near the windows, by Jean Warin.

Venus Subjugating the Gods and Powers (René-Antoine Houasse)

On the ceiling in a gilded oval frame, is Venus Subjugating the Gods and Powers (1672-1681), another painting by René-Antoine Houasse, featuring the planet Venus along with symbols associated with the Goddess of Love (same name in Greek mythology).

Around the ceiling are trompe l’oeil paintings and sculpture illustrating mythological themes. The paintings decorating the arches and moldings show great men or heroes from the Antiquity, some of them related to Venus while others to Louis XIV himself, whose actions, inspired by the goddess, often alluded, more or less obviously, to the deeds of Louis XIV. For example, the arch depicting Alexander the Great, marrying Roxana, evokes the king’s own wedding while the arch illustrating Emperor Augustus, watching Roman circus games, refers to the carousel held in honor of Queen Maria Theresa in 1662.

Salon of Diana

Like the Salon of Venus, the Salon of Diana served as a vestibule to the King’s State Apartment. Used by Louis XIV as a billiards room, it had galleries, with two tiers of seating installed, from which courtiers could watch the king, who was very skilled, play. On display here is the celebrated bust of Louis XIV by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, made during the famous sculptor’s visit to France in 1665.

Bust of Louis XIV (Gian Lorenzo Bernini, at center)

The decoration of the walls and ceiling depicts scenes from the life of the goddess Diana who, in ancient Greek mythology, was the goddess of the hunt, the sister of Apollo (the sun god), and was also associated with the moon. The ceiling’s central section, painted by Gabriel Blanchard, depicts goddess watching over navigation and hunting scenes.

Fireplace

The arches, also illustrating the themes of navigation and hunting, celebrates Louis XIV’s cynegetic taste; hunting with Cyrus Hunting the Wild Boar by Claude Audran the Younger and Alexander Hunting the Lion, by Charles de La Fosse;  and  navigation by making allusions to the royal navy, which was undergoing considerable expansion by Colbert at the time, with Julius Cesar Sending Roman settlers to Carthage by Claude Audran the Younger and Jason and the Argonautes, by Charles de La Fosse.

Diana and Endymion (Gabriel Blanchard)

The painting The Sacrifice of Iphigenia (1680), by Charles de La Fosse, over the fireplace shows the last-minute intervention by Diana.  Opposite, above the console, is Diana and Endymion, a painting by Gabriel Blanchard.

One of the busts from the collection of Cardinal Mazarin

The ancient busts are from collections belonging to Cardinal Mazarin which were bequeathed to Louis XIV.

Salon of Mars

The Salon of Mars, used by the royal guards until 1782, was decorated on a military theme with helmets and trophies, making its dedication to the god of war highly appropriate. Between 1684 and 1750, it was turned into a concert room, with galleries for musicians on either side. Decorating the room today are portraits of Louis XV and his Queen, Marie Leszczinska, by the Flemish artist Carle Van Loo.

Ceiling painting of Mars on a chariot by Claude Audran the Younger

The Salon of Mars, followed on from the two previous rooms, marked the start of the King’s Apartment. A painting by Claude Audran the Younger, in the center of the ceiling, depicts Mars on a chariot pulled by wolves. Two other compositions, on either side of the work, are Victory supported by Hercules and followed by Abundance and Felicity by Jean Jouvenet, to the east, and Terror, Fury and Horror take possession of the powers of the earth, by René-Antoine Houasse, to the west.

Portrait of King Louis XV (Carle van Loo)

The arches, decorated using gold camaieu, celebrate war victories by sovereigns from Antiquity, which naturally correspond to the military triumphs of the king, evoked in the gilded stucco spandrels by the Gaspard and Balthazard Marsy (Balthazar and Gaspard).

Portrait of Marie Leszcynska (Carle van Loo)

The decoration on the cornice, composed of a variety of helmets and military headgear, highlights the military character of the room.

The Family of Darius before Alexander (Charles Le Brun)

The Family of Darius before Alexander (to the left of the chimney) by Charles Le Brun, and The Pilgrims of Emmaus (to the right), in the style of Paolo Veronese, were hung as a pair, upon the king’s request, to demonstrate the desire to show that French painters could rival the greatest Italian masters.

The Pilgrims of Emmaus (Paolo Veronese)

Up until 1750, the room was used for music and dancing during evening gatherings and there were two platforms, on either side of the fireplace (where the two paintings now hang), which were for the musicians.

The fireplace

Two state portraits of Louis XV and Marie Leszczyńska, both painted by Carle Van Loo, are mounted on the side walls, while over the door are four paintings from Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye by Simon Vouet, illustrating the royal virtues of Temperance, Prudence, Justice and Strength.

Salon of Mercury

The Salon of Mercury, the original Chamber of Bed and House (La chambre du Lit et abritera), the State Bedchamber when Louis XIV officially moved the court and government to the Palace in 1682, has a bed that is a replica of the original commissioned by King Louis-Philippe I in the 19th century when he turned the palace into a museum. During winter, the bed was removed to make room for games tables.

Ceiling painting with Mercury on his chariot in the center

When the Salon of Mercury actually served as a bedchamber (referred to as the “bedroom”), the Duke of Anjou (the grandson of Louis XIV) slept here for three weeks before travelling to Spain where he was proclaimed King of Spain on November 16, 1700. From September 2 to 10, 1715, the coffin containing the body of Louis XIV was also displayed in this room.

Portrait of Louis XV (Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1730)

Its walls, ceilings and fireplace were once decorated with tables, mirrors, andirons and magnificently chased chandeliers (made in solid silver by the Gobelins silversmiths).  However, in 1689, Louis XIV had to melt them down to finance the War of the League of Augsburg.

Portrait of Queen Marie Leszczynska (Tocque)

The silver alcove (separated from the rest of the room by a silver balustrade) and magnificent tapestries of brocades (fabric made using gold and silver thread) which once hung from the walls and bed were later used, in their turn, to support the War of Spanish Succession. Since the original furniture was lost during the French Revolution, the remaining furniture in the room has been recreated after the Versailles inventory list.

Tapestry

The ceiling paintings, by the Flemish artist Jean Baptiste de Champaigne, depicts the god Mercury (the patron god of trade, arts and sciences and, as the gods’ messenger, of ambassadors) in his chariot, drawn by a rooster, and Alexander the Great and Ptolemy surrounded by scholars and philosophers.

Saint John the Evangelist on Patmos, (Innocenzo da Imola)

In the arches in the ceiling, these themes are also depicted in scenes that evoke events from the reign of Louis XIV such as the reception of ambassadors from far-off countries (Augustus receiving Indian ambassadors and Alexander the Great receiving Ethiopian ambassadors), development of the royal library (Ptolemy Philadelphus talking with wise men in the library of Alexandria), and the publication of Histoire Naturelle by Claude Perrault in the collection in the King’s Cabinet in 1671 (Alexander the Great bringing various foreign animals to Aristotle to allow him to write his Natural History).

Bronze and crystal chandelier

On either side are two paintings that Louis XIV was particularly fond of, and which he hung in his bedroom – David Playing the Harp by Domenico Zampieri, and Saint John the Evangelist on Patmos, attributed to Innocenzo da Imola.

Automaton Clock (Antoine Morand)

One can see through the mechanism of the large Automaton Clock, made by Antoine Morand, the royal clockmaker, for the King in 1706.  When it chimes the hour, the miniature figures of Louis XIV and Fame descend from a cloud.

Ceiling painting at Salon of Apollo

The Salon of Apollo, the Ceremonial Room (royal throne room) under Louis XIV, was the setting for formal audiences. The famous and extraordinary 2.6 m. (8-ft.) high throne (a huge wooden armchair covered with silver plaques and sculptures) once stood here on a platform beneath a baldachin but it was melted down in 1689 to help pay the costs of the expensive War of the League of Augsburg  and was replaced by a succession of more modest thrones of gilded wood in styles that varied according to the period.

The painting on the center of the ceiling, by Charles de la Fosse, dedicated to the Sun King, the arts and peace, depicts the Sun Chariot of Apollo (the King’s favorite emblem), pulled by four horses and surrounded by allegorical figures such as the Four Seasons.

Painting of Apollo pulled by four horses

The arches, illustrating the king’s magnificence and magnanimity, is seen  though various examples from Antiquity – Vespasian building the Colosseum; Augustus building the port of Miseno, Porus before Alexander and Coriolan entreated by his wife and mother to spare Rome.

Portrait of King Louis XIV in Ceremonial Dress (Hyacinthe Rigaud)

The copy (made in 1702) of most famous portrait of Louis XIV, by Hyacinthe Rigaud, hangs over the fireplace. The original portrait, made in 1701 (upon a personal request by the king who wanted to give it to his grandson who had recently become king of Spain), hangs in the Musée du Louvre.

Chandelier

State Apartments of  the King: Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1), from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com

Versailles Palace – Palace History Gallery (France)

Palace History Gallery

As a prologue to our visit to the State Apartments of the King, we first entered the Palace History Gallery (Galerie de l’Histoire du Château) located on the ground floor of the North Wing.

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A partnership of the Palace of Versailles with Google, the gallery opened last June 14, 2012. Chronologically presenting the construction history of the Palace, it, in parallel, also evoked images of the Bourbon reign.

The author beside a bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV.  Behind is the painting “King Louis-Philippe and his five sons leaving the Palace of Versailles” (Horace Vernet, 1846)

Devoted to the château’s history, it presents a thematic and chronological collection representing milestones of the palace’s creation, from the transformation of Louis XIII’s hunting lodge to the grandiose Baroque château all the way to its renovation by Louis-Philippe I, who founded the Museum of the History of France within Versailles in the 19th century. The collection includes films that explain each stage of the château’s history.

In the foreground is the painting “Portrait of Louis XII of France” (Studio of Simon Vouet)

A series of eleven rooms, with a total area of 700 sq. m. (a little over 7,500 sq. ft.), explained to us the richly varied functions of the places we were about to explore.

Portrait of Louis Philippe I in the uniform of a General Officer (Franz Xaver Winterhalter, oil on canvas, 1839)

Our visit combined the presentation of the collections of Versailles, currently comprising approximately 7,000 paintings (5,000 portraits, about 2,000 historical scenes) and 1,500 sculptures (mainly portraits), with physical scale models and striking 3D reconstructions.

Scaled Model of Chateau de Versailles

The new Château de Versailles History Gallery was designed by the Paris-based Projectiles architectural studio, winner in a contest organized between February and April 2010, creating an interior with emphasis on geometric shapes in modern materials that is in complete contrast with the rest of the palace.

View of Versailles from Place de Armas (Pierre Denis Martin, oil on canvas, 1722)

CREA Diffusion, an internationally renowned fabrication firm based in Sologne (France), was hired to handle the fabrication and installation of the 16,000 sq. ft. of solid DuPont Corian surfacing used for the monolithic chandeliers and interior elements.  Even the wall paneling are covered with engraved DuPont Corian techno surfaces.

Fountain of Apollo Gardens of Versailles (Hubert Robert, 1774)

Palace History Gallery: Ground Floor, North Wing, Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1)from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com.

Versailles Palace – Gallery of Illustrious Men (France)

Gallery of Illustrious Men

The Gallery of Illustrious Men, probably the longest in Versailles (it stretches almost the entire North Wing), is only interrupted by the emergence of the Royal Opera. In Louis XVI’s time, busts of Enlightenment-philosophers were added to the gallery.

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Statue of Henri Turenne (Augustin Pajou, 1783)

Statue of Nicolas de Catinat (Claude Dejoux)

Some of the statues that line this gallery are Marshals of France who served under King Louis XIVLouis II de Bourbon (Prince of Condé), Henri de La Tour d’Auvergne (Viscount of Turenne), François de Montmorency, Sébastien Le Prestre (Marquis of Vauban), Anne Hilarion de Tourville and Nicolas Catinat.

Statue of Francois Henri de Montmorency (Louis-Philippe Mouchy)

Statue of Sebastien Le Prestre Vauban (Charles-Antoine Bridan, 1785)

Other statues of those who served under King Louis XIV include Jacques-Benigne Bossuet (court preacher and tutor to the nine-year-old Dauphin, oldest child of Louis XIV) and Abraham Duquesne (Vice-Admiral who distinguished himself in the Third Dutch War).

Statue of Henri Francois d’Aguesseau (Pierre Francois Berruer)

Statue of Anne Hilarion de Tourville (Jean-Antoine Houdon, 1781)

Statues of other famous men in French history are represented here.  They include several Chancellors (Henri François d’Aguesseau and Michel de L’Hopital) as well as Carloman (king of the Franks from 768 until his death in 771),  Bertrand du Guesclin (an important military commander on the French side during the Hundred Years’ War),  Francois Fenelon (French Roman Catholic archbishoptheologianpoet and writer), Pierre Terrail, seigneur de Bayard (a French knight at the transition between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance).

Statue of Jacques-Benigne Bossuet (Augustin Pajou)

Statue of Abraham Duquesne (Martin Claude Monot, 1784-87)

All these statues were works of some of the noted French sculptors of that time – Martin-Claude Monot, Louis-Philippe Mouchy (1734 – 1801), Jean-Joseph Foucou (1739 – 1821), Jean-Antoine Houdon (1741 – 1828), Pierre Francois Berruer (1733 – 1797), Augustin Pajou (1730 – 1809), Claude Dejoux (1732 – 1816) and Charles Antoine Bridan(1730 – 1805)

Statue of Bertrand Duguesclin (Jean-Joseph Foucou, 1799)

Statue of Pierre du Terrail Bayard (Charles Antoine Bridan, 1787)

Gallery of Illustrious Men: North Wing, Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1), from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com.

Versailles Palace – Royal Chapel (France)

Royal Chapel

Upon arriving from the Place d’Armes, we caught sight of the Royal Chapel of Versailles’ sleek form, with a stonework facade opening up by large windows and its roof ridge reaching a height of 40 m. (the Royal Chapel is several dozen meters higher than the surrounding buildings). The current chapel, located at the south end of the north wing, was the last major building project at Versailles to be completed during the reign of Louis XIV (his spiritual legacy as well) and the fifth and final chapel built in the Palace since the reign of Louis XIII.

Check out “Versailles Palace

Some of the statues atop the balustrade

Officially announced in 1682, construction was begun by Jules Hardouin-Mansart (the First Architect to the King) in 1699 and, after Hardouin-Mansart died in 1708, the chapel was completed by his assistant and brother-in-law Robert de Cotte.  It was consecrated on June 5, 1710, at the end of the reign of Louis XIV, by Cardinal Louis Antoine de Noailles, the Archbishop of Paris.

Along with the Hall of Mirrors, it is one of the jewels of the Palace of Versailles.  The Chapel, a treasure of sacred architecture in France, is an impressive showpiece, of that time, of the proliferation of art to express the divine.

The chapel interior

Hardouin-Mansart  perpetuated the architectural tradition of French royal chapels, while giving the building a very modern appearance, consistent with Versailles’ “grand royal style.” He was also responsible for the Hall of Mirrors, the other major project at the end of the Sun King’s reign.

Representing one of the finest examples of French Baroque architecture and ecclesiastical decoration, the chapel towers over the rest of the palace. It was dedicated to Louis IX of France, the patron saint of the King and an ancestor of the royal house.

High Altar

Many believe that the Chapel contains references to the Sainte-Chapelle of Paris which Louis IX had founded on Île de la Cité in the 1240s, notably its large windows that let in the light, as well as its height (40 m.) on a squat and streamlined, 24 m. wide and 42 m. long base, made possible by its interior colonnade.

Colonnade

The Royal Chapel stands out for its rich artistic expression, both inside and out. The building’s overall design, with Gothic-inspired architecture, features many monumental sculpted decorations. There are large glass windows, Corinthian pilasters topped with plant decorations, buttresses, a roof with decorative lead work that was covered in gold leaf during the Sun King’s time plus an imposing colonnade on the first floor clearly inspired by Antiquity.

No fewer than 30 statues, made by 16 different sculptors, top the balustrade and the Chapel’s central pediment. Their carefully chosen themes are a combination of major characters in Christianity and allegories of Christian virtues.

Colonnade on the right

The interior elevation, like other royal chapels, follows the usual format for Palatine chapels (the most obvious examples is the presence of a balcony) with two levels.  The free-standing columns let in bright light from the large panes of clear glass (a luxury at the time).  Daily services here were usually held in the morning at 10 AM with the King, surrounded by his family, worshiping in the Royal Tribune on the upper level, with the ladies of the Court occupying the lateral tribunes, while the Officers and members of the public were seated or stood in the nave parterre on the ground level.

The king only descended into the nave during religious celebrations when he took Holy Communion, ceremonies of the Order of the Holy Spirit, and the baptisms and weddings of the Princes and Princesses of the realm which were held there from 1710 to 1789.

The ceiling frescos

The Hardouin-Mansart-designed uninterrupted vaulted ceiling, without transverse ribs to create a unified surface, display striking frescoes, complemented by large stained-glass windows, done by the most talented painters of the time, with scenes depicting the three figures of the Holy Trinity.

The Resurrection of Christ (Charles de La Fosse)

The Glory of the Father Announcing the Coming of the Messiah, in the center, was done by Antoine Coypel. In the apse above the altar is The Resurrection of Christ by Charles de La Fosse while above the royal tribune is The Holy Spirit Descending upon the Virgin and the Apostles by Jean Jouvenet.

Glory Holding the Medallion of Louis XV (Antoine Vasse)

A corridor and vestibule, connecting the Chapel and the State Apartments, included later art commissioned by Louis XV, intended to portray the link between Divinity and the King –  a statue of Glory Holding the Medallion of Louis XV, by Antoine Vassé; and Royal Magnanimity by Jacques Bousseau.

Royal Magnanimity (Jacques Bousseau)

The great organ, designed by Clicquot, is decorated with a beautiful depiction of King David in relief and was unusually placed above the altar, thus facing the gallery where the royal family sat to attend mass.   Great musicians, such as  François Couperin (he inaugurated the organ), have played this organ. Every day, throughout the service, the music of the Chapel, renowned throughout Europe, rang out with motets  resonating from above the altar.

The Great Organ

More than 300 years after its construction, the acoustics of this exceptional musical venue still resonates as the chapel continues to host concerts, playing a large repertoire of sacred and secular music from that time and the present day.

NOTE: More than forty years after its last major restoration, the Royal Chapel is now undergoing urgent intervention on the roof timbers, the roof and decorative lead work, the statues and window frames and stained glass.The end of the construction is scheduled for spring 2021.

Hall of Mirrors: Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1)from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com

Versailles Palace (France)

Palace of Versailles (Chateau de Versailles) seen from the Place d’Armes

After a 10-min. walk from the Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, we finally at the Place d’Armes, the roughly fan-shaped square with its equestrian statue of Louis XIV in the center and the Grande Écurie and the Petite Écurie (Royal Stables) to the east.  We entered the  Palace of Versailles via the  royal gate into the Court of Honor (cour d’honneur), the courtyard in front of the palace.

Place d’Armes, facing the La Grand Ecurie and Petite Ecurie

The original Baroque-style steel gate, designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, was torn down during the French Revolution.

The recreated Royal Gate

The new 80 m. high, recreated steel gate, decorated with 100,000 gold leaves, was unveiled last February 4, 2008 after two years of painstaking work by legions of top craftsmen and history experts with private donors contributing five million euros (eight million dollars) to ensure an exact replica would be produced.  As we had already bought our tickets online, we entered the palace via Entrance A.

The bronze equestrian Statue of Louis XIV designed by Pierre Cartellier. The rider is the work of Louis Petitot, son-in-law of Cartelier, and the whole was cast in bronze by Charles Crozatier in 1838. The proportions of the statues of the horse and the king are slightly different. Previously located in the Cour d’Honneur, it was relocated to the Place d’Armes in 2009.

The royal court of Versailles, home of the French nobility and a symbol of the system of absolute monarchy of the Ancien Régime, was the center of political power in France from 1682 (when Louis XIV moved from Paris) until October 1789, after the beginning of the French Revolution, when the royal family was forced to return to the capital.

The Court of Honor. L-R: the author, Kyle, Cheska, Grace and Jandy

Here is the historical timeline of the palace:

  • From 1661–1678, the first phase of the expansion into a royal palace by Louis XIV, designed and supervised by the architect Louis Le Vau, culminated in the addition of three new wings of stone (the enveloppe), which surrounded Louis XIII’s original building on the north, south, and west (the garden side). As a result of Le Vau’s enveloppe of Louis XIII’s château, the king and the queen had new apartments in the new addition (known at the time as the château neuf).  Charles Le Brun designed and supervised the elaborate interior decoration. André Le Nôtre (who landscaped the extensive Gardens of Versailles) and Le Brun (who supervised the design and installation of countless statues) collaborated on the numerous fountains.
  • In 1670, after Le Vau’s death, the work was taken over and completed by his assistant, François d’Orbay.
  • From 1678–1715, during the second phase of expansion, two enormous wings north and south of the wings flanking the Royal Court (Cour Royale) of the main château were added by the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart who also replaced Le Vau’s large terrace on the west (garden) front with what became the most famous room of the palace, the Hall of Mirrors. Mansart also built the stables (Petites Écuries and Grandes Écuries), on the opposite (east) side of the Place d’Armes, in front of the palace and the château known as the Grand Trianon (or Marble Trianon), replacing Le Vau’s 1668 Trianon de Porcelaine in the northern section of the palace park.
  • By 1682, work was sufficiently advanced that Louis XIV was able to proclaim Versailles his principal residence and the governmental center of France, and to give rooms in the palace to almost all of his courtiers.
  • In 1683, after the death of his consort Maria Theresa of Spain, Louis XIV undertook the enlargement and remodeling of the royal apartments in the oldest part of the palace, the château built by his father.
  • In 1688, the Royal Chapel of Versailles, located at the south end of the north wing, was begun by Mansart.
  • In 1710, after Mansart’s death in 1708, work on the Royal Chapel was completed by his assistant Robert de Cotte .
  • In 1738, Louis XV remodeled the king’s petit appartement on the north side of the Cour de Marbre (Marble Court), originally the entrance court of the old château.
  • In 1768, the Petit Trianon, a pavilion in the palace park designed by Ange-Jacques Gabriel, was finished.
  • In 1770, the Opéra, a theater at the north end of the north wing designed by Gabriel, was completed in time for the marriage of the Dauphin (the future Louis XVI), Louis XV‘s grandson, and Marie Antoinette.
  • After he became king in 1774, Louis XVI made only a few changes to the main palace, primarily to their private apartments. Marie Antoinette made extensive changes to the interior of the Petit Trianon as well as its gardens, including adding her private Théâtre de la Reine and the Hameau.
  • In 1783, the three treaties of the Peace of Paris (1783), in which the United Kingdom recognized the independence of the United States, where signed in the Palace.
  • On October 5, 1789, growing anger in Paris led to the Women’s March on Versailles wherein a crowd of several thousand men and women, protesting the high price and scarcity of bread, marched from the markets of Paris to Versailles. Taking weapons from the city armory, they besieged the Palace and compelled the King and Royal family and the members of the National Assembly to return with them to Paris the following day.
  • In 1792, the Convention (the new revolutionary government), ordered the transfer of all the paintings and sculptures from the Palace to the Louvre.
  • Between 25 August 1793 and 11 August 1794, auction of furniture, mirrors, baths and kitchen equipment, were sold in seventeen thousand lots. All fleurs-de-lis and royal emblems on the buildings were chambered or chiseled off. The empty buildings were turned into a storehouse for furnishings, art and libraries confiscated from the nobility.
  • Beginning in 1793, the empty grand apartments were opened for tours and a small museum of French paintings and art school was opened in some of the empty rooms.
  • In 1810, Napoleon Bonaparte, prior to his marriage with Marie-Louise, he had the Grand Trianon restored and refurnished as a springtime residence for himself and his family, in the style of furnishing that it is seen today.
  • In 1820, Louis XVIII ordered the restoration of the royal apartments, but the task and cost was too great.
  • In 1833, Louis-Philippe initiated effort to restore and maintain Versailles when he changed the palace when he began renovation the south wing of the Palace, which had been used to house some members of the royal family, to convert them into the Museum of the History of France, including the Galerie des Batailles (Hall of Battles) which lies on most of the length of the second floor. To give greater uniformity of appearance to the front entrance, the far end of the south wing of the Cour Royale was demolished and rebuilt to match the Gabriel wing of 1780 opposite.
  • On June 30, 1837, the museum was inaugurated.
  • During the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–1871, the general staff of the victorious German Army occupied the Palace and parts of the chateau, including the Gallery of Mirrors, were turned into a military hospital.
  • On January 18, 1871, the creation of the German Empire, combining Prussia and the surrounding German states under William I, was formally proclaimed in the Hall of Mirrors.
  • In March 1871, until the signing of the armistice with the Germans, the government of the new Third French Republic moved into the Palace. The National Assembly held its meetings in the Opera House.
  • In 1892, Pierre de Nolhac, poet and scholar and the first conservator, began restoration efforts at the Palace. Though interrupted by two world wars, the conservation and restoration work still continues until the present day.
  • In June 1919, the Treaty of Versailles, formally ending the First World War, was signed in the Hall of Mirrors.
  • Between 1925 and 1928, American philanthropist and multi-millionaire John D. Rockefeller gave $2,166,000 (the equivalent of about thirty million dollars today), to restore and refurnish the palace.
  • On April 9, 1957, further restoration of the backstage areas of Royal Opera of Versailles was completed and the Royal Opera of Versailles was reopened in the presence of Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom.
  • In 1978, parts of the Palace were heavily damaged in a bombing committed by Breton terrorists.
  • In 1979, the palace and its garden were inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
  • In 2003, the “Grand Versailles” project, a new restoration initiative, was started. It began with the replanting of the gardens which, on December 26, 1999, had lost over 10,000 trees during Hurricane Lothar .
  • In 2006, the restoration of the Hall of Mirrors was completed. 

Check out “Versailles Palace – Royal Chapel,” “Versailles Palace – State Apartments of the King,” “Versailles Palace – Gallery of Great Battles” and “Versailles Palace – Hall of Mirrors

Here are some interesting trivia regarding the palace:

  • The palace was originally a hunting lodge built in brick and stone by King Louis XIII in 1623.
  • The land on which the palace was built on was situated on a narrow plateau with many swamps around it and not fit for the construction. For the project to happen, they needed to restructure the whole area by drying the swamps up and fill the area around the plateau with soil and stones. Earthwork and leveling were also essential for the construction to begin.
  • The Palace of Versailles is the second-most visited monument in the Île-de-France region (7,700,000 visitors in 2017), just behind the Louvre and ahead of the Eiffel Tower.
  • Versailles was one of the few castles in France that wasn’t located near a river so artificial ponds were created and aerial and underground aqueducts built to supply water for the Palace’s fountains and all the surrounding waters were redirected to it. They also pumped the water out of the Seine River using new techniques and hydraulic methods. A revolutionary pumping machine, built for this project, drew water from the river and, for it to reach the aqueducts that would lead the water to the Palace, drove it through pipes more than one hundred meters above the Seine level.
  • The Palace was not restricted only for the King and his court and though everyone could freely visit the Palace and walk its gardens, elegance was essential in the Palace of Versailles and visitors needed to be well-dressed to be allowed to walk the Palace. Those who did not have a proper outfit, could rent one at the entrance of the Palace.

Check out “Eiffel Tower

The palace, enthusiastically promoted as one of France’s foremost tourist attractions by the Fifth Republic, still serves political functions.  Heads of state are regaled in the Hall of Mirrors and the French Senate (Sénat) and the National Assembly (Assemblée nationale) meet, in congress, in Versailles to revise or otherwise amend the French Constitution, a tradition that came into effect with the promulgation of the 1875 Constitution.

The Marble Court (made with contrasting red brick, white stone and grey slate highlighted with god decoration) and the facade of the first chateau built by King Louis XIII

The Grand Apartments (grands appartements), known respectively as the King’s Grand Apartment (grand appartement du roi), consisting of an enfilade of seven rooms, and the Queen’s Grand Apartment (grand appartement de la reine) forming a parallel enfilade with that of the grand appartement du roi, occupied the main or principal floor of the New Palace (château neuf).

Check out “Versailles Palace – State Apartments of the King” and “Versailles Palace – Queen’s Grand Apartment

The Royal Chapel

Le Vau’s design for the state apartments, closely following Italian models of the day, is evidenced by the piano nobile (a convention the architect borrowed from 16th- and 17th-century Italian palace design), the  placement of the apartments on the next floor up from the ground level.

Gabriel Pavilion

Owned by the French state, the Palace of Versailles’ formal title is the Public Establishment of the Palace, Museum and National Estate of Versailles and, since 1995, has been run as a Public Establishment, with an independent administration and management supervised by the French Ministry of Culture.

Offering a visual history of French architecture from the 17th century to the end of the 18th century, the Palace of Versailles began with the original château, with the brick and stone and sloping slate (from Angers) Mansard roofs of the Louis XIII style, used by architect Philibert Le Roy. With the addition of the colonnades and flat roofs of the new royal apartments, done in the French Classical or Louis XIV style, as designed by Louis Le Vau and, later, by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, it then became grander and more monumental. In 1768, it concluded in the lighter and more graceful Neo-Classical Louis XVI style of the Petit Trianon, completed by Ange-Jacques Gabriel.

Dufour Pavilion

Largely completed by the death of Louis XIV in 1715, the eastern part of the palace has a U-shaped layout, surrounding a black-and-white marble courtyard, with the corps de logis and symmetrical advancing secondary wings terminating with the Dufour Pavilion on the south and the Gabriel Pavilion to the north, creating an expansive cour d’honneur known as the Cour Royale (Royal Court).

The North Wing

Two enormous asymmetrical wings, flanking the Royal Court, results in a 402 m. (1,319 ft.) long facade. The palace, covered by around a million sq. ft. (10 hectares) of roof, has 2,143 windows, 1,252 chimneys, and 67 staircases.

The Princes’ Staircase overlooking the Gallery of Great Battles

The façade of Louis XIII’s original château, preserved on the entrance front, was built of red brick and cut stone embellishments. In the center of the courtyard is a 3-storey avant-corps fronted with eight red marble columns, supporting a gilded wrought-iron balcony and surmounted with a triangle of lead statuary surrounding a large clock (its hands stopped upon the death of Louis XIV).

Questel Staircase, located at the North Wing, was named after architect Charles-Aususte Questel.  It replaced the one built by Questel’s predecessor, Frédéric Nepveu, during the July Monarchy.

Columns, painted and gilded wrought-iron balconies plus dozens of stone tables decorated with consoles (holding marble busts of Roman emperors) completes the rest of the façade while atop the slate Mansard roof, are elaborate dormer windows and gilt lead roof dressings, added by Hardouin-Mansart in 1679–1681.

The garden front and wings, inspired by the architecture of Baroque-style Italian villas but executed in the French Classical style, were encased in enveloppe (white cut ashlar stone from L’Oise) by Le Vau in 1668-1671 and modified by Hardouin-Mansart in 1678–1679.

The exterior features an arcaded, rusticated ground floor, supporting a main floor with round-headed windows divided by reliefs and pilasters or columns, while the attic storey, with square windows and pilasters, is crowned by a balustrade bearing sculptured trophies and flame pots dissimulating a flat roof.

Angel and Lion Statue

Chateau de Versailles: Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1), from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com.

Royal Palace – Silver Pagoda (Phnom Penh, Cambodia)

Silver Pagoda (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Silver Pagoda (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

From the Throne Hall, Osang, Violet, Jandy and I proceeded to south side of the Royal Palace complex.  The beautiful Silver Pagoda, built in honor of the Lord Buddha, is the official temple of the king of Cambodia.  Formerly known as Wat Ubosoth Ratanaram, its official name is Preah Vihear Preah Keo Morakot (“Temple of the Emerald Buddha”), after the green baccarat crystal Buddha it houses.  Its name is commonly shortened to Wat Preah Keo.

Mandapa of Satra and Tripitaka

Mandapa of Satra and Tripitaka

Constructed in 1962, at Queen Kossamak’s command, by King Norodom Sihanouk, it replaced the wooden pagoda built by his grandfather in 1902,  the original aging structure being too weak to stand. During the Khmer Rouge years, more than half its contents were stolen but the pagoda itself was pretty much unscathed.

King Norodom's Statue

King Norodom’s Statue

The Silver Pagoda, is so named because of its 5,329 silver floor tiles, each around  20 cm. (8 inches) square and each weighing 1.125 kg (2.48 lbs), and having a total weight of more than 6 tons. Some of its outer facade was remodeled with Italian marble. The pagoda’s construction shows the clear influence of Bangkok’s Wat Phra Kaeo, also home to a precious crystal Buddha to which the one in Phnom Penh bears an uncanny resemblance.

King Ang Duong's Stupa

King Ang Duong’s Stupa

After removing our hats and leaving our footwear outside, we were allowed to enter the vihara which houses a rich collection of 1,650 royal gifts received by the Royal family over the years, including artifacts and Buddha images, many of them national treasures.  The pagoda is more a museum than place of homage and no monks stay in permanent residence here. However, on entering the pagoda, we only saw a small area of the temple’s signature  silver tiles as much of the floor was covered by carpets. Photography is also not allowed inside.

Kantha Bopha's Stupa

Kantha Bopha’s Stupa

On display are gold and jeweled Buddha statues, notably a a small 17th century baccarat crystal Buddha (the “Emerald Buddha” of Cambodia) and an impressive, life-sized gold Maitreya Buddha. The latter, housed in the sanctum sanctorum of the temple, was created in the palace workshops between 1906 and 1907.  It weighs in at 90 kgs., is dressed in royal regalia commissioned by King Sisowath, and is decorated with 9,584 diamonds (the largest of which weighs 25 carats).

Reamker Frescoes

Reamker Frescoes

The main building (vihear) is bounded, to the east, by the statue of King Norodom (sitting on a white horse) and to the north by the Mondapa of Satra and Tripitaka, a library housing Buddhist texts.  At the eastern corner is the bell tower, south of which, near the exit, is a model of Angkor Wat. South of the vihear stands 4 structures, from west to east – the chedi (stupa) of King Suramarit and Queen Kossamak, the Dharmasala, the Chedi of Princess Kantha Bopha and the Phnom Mondop (Mount Mondop, where the statue of Preah Ko is situated). The last mentioned is an artificial hill with a pavilion housing a bronze footprint of the Buddha from Sri Lanka.

Osang, Jandy and Osang at Kantha Bopha's Stupa

Osang, Jandy and Osang at Kantha Bopha’s Stupa

These structures are surrounded by a wall – the oldest part of the palace – covered with 80 m. long, colorful series of frescos depicting episodes from Reamker, the Khmer version of the Indian Ramayana, , one of the great Hindu epics.ainted from 1903 to 1904, its bottom half has faded, throughout the Khmer Rouge years, due to neglect. Some restoration has been done but much of the damage is still clearly visible.

Royal Palace: Samdach Sothearos Blvd., Phnom Penh.  Open daily, 8 to 11 AM and 2 to 5 PM.

Royal Palace – The Throne Hall (Phnom Penh, Cambodia)

Throne Hall (Preah Tineang Tevea Vinichhay)

Throne Hall (Preah Tineang Tevea Vinichhay)

Upon paying the admission fee of US$6.25, Jandy, Osang, Violet and I started our guide-less tour of the Royal Palace grounds.The first major building we passed was the open-sided Preah Tineang Phhochani, the banqueting and dance hall, inaugurated in 1912. The pristine gardens of the palace grounds are dotted with topiaried trees and are planted with tropical flowers and plants such as Allamanda catharticaCouroupita guianensis and Jatropha integerrima.

Osang, Violet and Jandy at top of grand stairway

Osang, Violet and Jandy at top of grand stairway

We started with the cross-shaped Throne Hall (Preah Thineang Dheva Vinnichay Mohai Moha Prasat, or “Sacred Seat of Judgement”), the most impressive building in the royal compound.  The Throne Hall , crowned with 3 spires, is the second building to be built on this site.  The King’s confidants, generals and royal officials once carried out their duties here and it is still in use today as a place for religious and royal ceremonies (such as coronations and royal weddings) as well as a meeting place for the King’s guests.

A 7-headed naga

A 7-headed naga

The first building was constructed of wood in 1869-1870, under King Norodom, then demolished in 1915 and the present 30 x 60 m. building, a  faithful reproduction of Norodom’s wooden palace, was built in 1917 and inaugurated by King Bat Sisowath in 1919. This building, as well as all buildings and structures at the Royal Palace, faces the east (best photographed in the morning). The building’s central, 59 m. high spire is topped with the white, 4-faced head of Brahma.

A garuda appearing to support the roof

A garuda appearing to support the roof

Inside are 3 royal thrones (2 traditional and 1 Western-style) and golden busts of Cambodians kings and queens, starting from the reign King Ang Doung onwards. However, we, as well as all other visitors, weren’t allowed to go inside, much less take pictures of the interiors, even from the outside.  We could only take photographs of its exterior.

Spire topped with the white, 4-faced head of Brahma

Spire topped with the white, 4-faced head of Brahma

The hall’s broad and grand entrance stairway has banisters formed by 7-headed nagas.  Each column of the colonnaded veranda is topped by a garuda with outstretched wings, all seemingly supporting the eaves of the roof.

Hor Samranphirum

Hor Samranphirum

To the right of the Throne Hall is the Hor Samran Phirum, the Royal Rest House, built between 1915 and 1917.  It is not open for public viewing. On coronation day, this small pavilion is used as a royal rest house and waiting area.  Here, the incoming King and Queen wait for their elephants to be bought around. On one side of the building is a door and some posts which are used to harness the elephants while the royals board.  The king no longer keeps elephants and, today, this building is used to house gifts from foreign dignitaries as well as the royal musical instruments and utensils used in royal coronation processions.

Hor Samritvimean

Hor Samrit Vimean

Exhibits at Hor Samritvimean

Exhibits at Hor Samrit Vimean

One small but elaborate pavilion we could photograph, both inside and out, was the Hor Samrit Vimean, also known as the Bronze Palace. The Royal treasury, this tall but narrow building houses regalia vital to the coronation ceremony including the Great Crown of Victory; The Great White umbrella of state; The Sacred Sword; The Victory Spear; The Fan; various procession group figures bearing the national, religious and monarchy flags; and clothing worn during King Sihamoni’s coronation on October 2004. We joined other tourists at the small display room at the lower floor where we observed, and photographed, display cases exhibiting some of the more minor royal regalia and utensils. At the rear, we note the 7 mannequins wearing seven days’ worth of colors.

Preah Tineang Phhochani

Preah Tineang Phhochani

Just north of the Preah Tineang Phhochani, the palace grounds are closed to visitors so we could only observe the other buildings beyond from afar. Getting a much-needed facelift and shielded by a huge tarpaulin (with the actual likeness of the building inside) during our visit was the cast-iron, French-style Pavilion of Napoleon lll, the oldest surviving structure on the palace grounds.  It was presented by French Emperor Napoleon III to King Norodom in 1876 and re-erected here. The pavilion was used by the Empress Eugenie (Napoleon’s wife) during her inauguration of the Suez Canal in in Ismailia, Egypt in 1869. It now serves as a museum of royal memorabilia and a photo exhibit of former Cambodian kings.

The Pavilion of Napoleon III and the Preah Reach Damnak Chan

The Pavilion of Napoleon III and the Preah Reach Damnak Chan

West of the pavilion is the Preah Reach Damnak Chan.  Built in 1953, it’s partly a museum housing a collection of gifts to the royal family while another part is an office for the Ministry of the Royal Palace.  Just past the Pavilion of Napoleon III, a gateway provided us access to the Silver Pagoda.

Royal Palace: Samdach Sothearos Blvd., Phnom Penh.  Open daily, 8 to 11 AM and 2 to 5 PM.

Preah Sothearos Boulevard (Phnom Penh, Cambodia)

Preah Sothearos Boulevard

Preah Sothearos Boulevard

After our short visit to the National Museum, Osang, Violet, Jandy and I proceeded on our way to the nearby Royal Palace. The Royal Palace, a good example of Khmer architecture, covers an area of 174,870 sq. m. (402 m. x 435 m.). Its layout features a defensive wall (kampaeng), throne hall (preah tineang), Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Preah Keo Morakot), stupas (chedei), towering spires (prang prasat) and mural paintings.

Osang feeding the doves

Osang feeding the doves

The complex is divided by walls into four main compounds.  On the south side is the Silver Pagoda, on the north is the Khemarin Palace, on the west is the private sector (or the Inner Court) while the central compound contains the Throne Hall . The buildings of the palace were gradually built over time, some were dismantled and rebuilt as late as the 1960s, but some old buildings date back to the 19th century.

Gamely posing with a sentry at his ost

Gamely posing with a sentry at his post

From Street 184, we turned right to the surprisingly car-free (save for one tourist bus) Preah Sothearos Blvd. On its left is a wide promenade with yellow hexagonal floor tiles.  Here, flocks of black, white and gray doves congregate.  Children enjoy chasing them while adults feed them with corn kernels and peanuts bought from vendors nearby. Beyond the promenade is a small park, Sisowath Quay and the mighty Mekong River.

The open-air  Preah Thineang Chan Chhaya ("Moonlight Pavilion")

The open-air Preah Thineang Chan Chhaya (“Moonlight Pavilion”)

On the boulevard’s right are the high, yellow crenelated walls of the Royal Palace. We passed two guardhouses, one of them manned, gamely posing with the guard on duty. The  open-air  Preah Thineang Chan Chhaya (“Moonlight Pavilion”), built alongside a section of the palace walls, dominates the facade.

The Victory Gate

The Victory Gate

One of the most notable buildings of the Royal Palace, it serves as a venue for the Royal Dancers, as a tribune for the King to address the crowds and as a place to hold state and royal banquets. During the 2004 coronation of King Norodom Sihamoni, it was used for a banquet and a tribune for the new king.  It also has a balcony that is used for viewing parades marching along Sothearos Boulevard.

Finally ... the visitor's entrance gate

Finally … the visitor’s entrance gate

Past the pavilion is the Victory Gate which faces the entrance steps leading to the palace’s Throne Hall. Traditionally, this gate was only used by the king and queen though it is now used to admit visiting dignitaries.  As such, this gate was locked.  However, the entrance for tourists wanting to tour the palace was nearby.  Upon entering, we walked along a short corridor to the ticket booth.

 

Grand Palace (Bangkok, Thailand)

On our third day in Bangkok, we availed of a tour from the travel agency at the hotel, of the fabulous Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang), the gem of Bangkok’s impressive collection of temples and palaces, and its adjoining Wat Phra Kaew (Chapel Royal of the Emerald Buddha), Thailand’s most important temple. This would the first for Jandy and Cheska. After breakfast at the hotel, we were picked up at the hotel lobby by a good English-speaking guide (he seemed to be of Indian ancestry) and driven to the palace in a sedan.

Marching Soldiers Entering the Palace Gate

We arrived at the palace just when a troop of marching soldiers, dressed in colorful ceremonial uniforms, were entering the gate along Na Phra Lan Road, on the north side, to the palace’s Outer Court and we followed at their heels.  The weather was sunny but extremely hot. Whether you take a guided tour or not, the route through the  complex is more or less fixed, with the Wat Phra Kaeo first and the Grand Palace last.

Grand Palace’s Outer Court

Nowadays, the Grand Palace, the official residence of the king of Thailand from the 18th century to the mid-20th century, is used only for occasional ceremonial purposes and is no longer the royal residence as King Bhumibol (Rama IX) lives in Chitralada Palace (closed to tourists) which is located not too far away in Bangkok’s Dusit district, near Dusit Zoo. However, the interiors of most of the buildings in the Grand Palace remain closed to the public.

Wat Phra Kaeo Entrance Guarded by 2 Yakshis (mythical giants)

Sitting on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, this complex of of shrines, temples, royal halls and apartment buildings, despite their proximity, have a distinct contrast in style, the Grand Palace being European-inspired in architecture  (the roof being the exception) and the Wat Phra Kaew very Thai.  It covers 218,400 sq.m. and is surrounded by a 1,900 m. long wall.

Wat Phra Kaeo

The 94.5-hectare (234-acre) Wat Phra Kaeo, built in 1782 during the reign of King Rama I, has a roof embellished with polished orange and green tiles, pillars inlaid in mosaic and pediments made of rich marble. The temple houses the small (45 cm. tall), beautiful, gold-clothed and greatly revered Emerald Buddha, carved from a block of fine green jade (instead of emerald) sitting on a high throne under a golden filigree canopy. As in all Thai temples, we were required to remove our shoes or sandals before entering.  Bare feet are not allowed either. We also weren’t allowed to take pictures inside.

A Gallery Filled with Murals

In the middle of the complex is the Phra Mondop, a library built in Thai style by Rama I.  It houses elegantly carved, Ayutthaya-style mother-of-pearl doors, bookcases with the tripitaka (sacred Buddhist manuscripts), human-and dragon-headed nagas (snakes), and images of Chakri kings.

Phra Mondhob

Enclosing this temple complex are galleries with typically Thai murals that feature lovely paintings depicting 178 unbelievably vivid and detailed scenes from the Indian epic Ramayama (Ramakien in Thai) that show the heroic tale of Rama of Ayodhya and his war against the giant Ravana, king of Lonka.

Phra Sri Rattana Chedi

The Upper Terrace has 4 main monuments: the Phra Sri Rattana Chedi, the Repository of the Canon of Buddhism, the Prasart Phra Dedidorn (the model of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat presented to King Mongkut)  and the Prasat Phra Thep Bidon.  The Phra Sri Ratana Chedi, located west of Wat Phra Kaeo, is a 19th century stupa built in Sri Lankan style.  It enshrines the ashes of the Buddha.

Prasat Phra Thep Bidon

The Prasat Phra Thep Bidon (Royal Pantheon), crowned with a high filigree prang, contains the relics of the previous kings of the Chakri Dynasty.  It has lovely kinnara (half man, half bird) statues up front.

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

The Grand Palace has two groups of residences: the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall and the Phra Maha Monthian. The Italian Renaissance-influenced Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, built in 1882 by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), is a remarkable mixture of European and traditional Thai styles. Each wing has a shrine (mandap) crowned by a spire and has 3 prangs instead of domes.  This palace houses elegant staterooms and an exhibition of the royal weapons collection at the ground floor.

The Phra Maha Monthian consists of the Amarin Winitchai Audience Hall  and the Paisal Taksin Hall which features the monarchy’s coronation chair.  The Amarin Winitchai Audience Hall was where court ceremonies took place before the throne. It has a very interesting 4-tiered roof and a very pretty pavilion in front of it (Amporn Phimok Prasad).

At the eastern end is the Borombhiman Hall, built in the French architectural style.  Formerly the residence of King Rama VI, it is now used as guest house for visiting foreign dignitaries.

Borombhiman Hall

Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew: Open daily, 8:30 AM-4:30 PM.

How to Get There: take bus 44, 47 and 91 and drop off at Thaiwang Road, between Wat Pho and Wat Phra Kaew. You can also take bus 1, 25, 44, 47, 82 and 91 and drop off at Maharat Road, west of Wat Phra Kaew. North of Wat Phra Kaew, on nearby Sanam Luang, you can also take bus 3, 15, 30, 32, 43, 44, 59, 64, 70, 80, 123 and 201 as well as airconditioned bus 6, 7, 12, 39 and 44.  The Tha Chang river express boat stop is also very near.