Category Archives: Laguna

The Ancestral Houses of Pila (Laguna)

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Pila Municipal Hall

Past the town of Victoria, we soon reached the Pila town proper (87 kms. from Manila) and its plaza lined with shady, giant talisay trees.  Surrounding it are quaint early 20th century, American-era ancestral houses and, finding them interesting, decided to make a long stopover here to explore the town further.  I parked my Toyota Revo at the Municipal Hall, a heritage building built in 1931 and faithfully restored by Mayor Edgardo Ramos.

Town Plaza

Pila is cited as one of the few intact examples of Spanish colonial town planning where the center of the town was the plaza complex surrounded by the church, tribunal, school and large ancestral houses of the town’s leading citizens.  On May 17, 2000, as a consequence of these efforts, Pila was declared as a National Historic Landmark (a status also enjoyed by Vigan City in Ilocos Sur, Silay City in Negros Occidental and Taal in Batangas) by the National Historical Institute (NHI) .

Pila’s ancestral homes

Unlike nearby Sta. Cruz and Pagsanjan towns which were reduced to rubble by American bombing, Pila survived the ravages of World War II because American bombers failed to spot it.  Because of this great piece of luck, Pila still boasts of 36 19th century and turn-of-the-century structures, 28 of them ancestral homes.  Mostly located in Brgy. Sta. Clara, many of these ancestral homes, a good number of which belong to the Agra, Alava, Dimaculangan, Relova and Rivera families, have withstood the test of time and are still well-preserved, with fresh coats of paint with pastel and cream colors.  These home owners take great pride in town’s old world charm and their rich and varied heritage.  Once parked, Jandy and I strolled along the town’s plaza and its quiet streets, enjoying up close or from afar, the experience of seeing these stately structures that reflect a rich and varied architectural history.

Jose Agra Ancestral House

This lakeshore town, founded by Franciscan missionaries in 1580, has been given the moniker Lupang Pinagpala (“The Blessed Land”) and there are a number of reasons for this. In 1610, in recognition of the noble Pileños refined manners and genteel customs, this town steeped in history and culture was conferred the special status of La Noble Villa de Pila (“The Noble Town of Pila”), one of only five towns in the country accorded this honor by Spain (the others being Cebu, Vigan in Ilocos Sur, Libon in Albay and Oton in Iloilo). The town also survived the ravages of World War II because American bombers, on a bombing run to flush out Japanese soldiers, failed to spot it.  Nearby Sta. Cruz and Pagsanjan towns were not so lucky, both being reduced to rubble.

Relova Ancestral House

In December 1993, the Pila Historical Society Foundation was established to preserve and maintain these remnants of a gentler way of life.  The foundation raised funds and, with the cooperation of the late Mayor Querubin Relova and the Sangguniang Bayan, undertook the huge task of demolishing and relocating new structures that detracted from the beauty, purpose and historical relevance of the original town plan.  Pila is cited as one of the few intact examples of Spanish colonial town planning where the center of the town was the plaza complex surrounded by the church, tribunal, school and large ancestral houses of the town’s leading citizens.

Rudolfo Relova Ancestral House

Many houses built during the Commonwealth Period reflect a shift in architectural styles, evolving from the massive bahay na bato (stone house) to the charming American chalet-style houses with touches of Spanish design elements, decorative Art Deco or Art Nouveau treatments.  Using more Philippine hardwoods and cement, all provide comfort, a respite from the tropical heat and a general feeling of airiness with their high ceilings; tall and wide capiz or paned-glass windows that allow the breeze to come in and woodcarvings on the ventanillas that allow for good cross ventilation. The living and dining rooms, on the second floor, are accessed by stairs that figure prominently in the facade.  The ground floors of many houses facing the plaza, formerly used as storage areas, now house cafeterias and shops.

Pila Historical Society Foundation: tel: (049) 559-0382 (Ms. Cora Relova).

Diocesan Shrine of St. Anthony of Padua (Pila, Laguna)

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After our museum visit, we next dropped by the town’s present Early Renaissance-style Diocesan Shrine of St. Anthony of Padua, the first Antonine church in the country.  Located beside the Liceo de Pila (founded in 1947), it was built in 1849 by Frs. Antonio Argobejo and Domingo de Valencia but, during the July 18, 1880 earthquake, was badly damaged and its bell tower toppled.  It was then repaired by Fr. Damaso Bolaños and finished by Fr. Francisco de Santa Olalia.

Diocesan Shrine of St. Anthony of Padua

Its bell tower was rebuilt by Fr. Lope Toledo.  The convent, completed in 1849, was also seriously damaged during the 1880 earthquake.  On July 9, 2002, it was proclaimed as a diocesan shrine by Bishop Francisco O. San Diego of the Diocese of San Pablo. Two relics of St. Anthony of Padua are enshrined behind the tabernacle.  During healing masses, devotees flock to the shrine for a chance to touch the miraculous relics.

The church interior
The church’s Early Renaissance facade, divided into 3 segments by superimposed Doric columns, has a semicircular arched main entrance.  On the second level is a statued niche flanked by pedimented windows.  The pediment, with its balustraded raking cornice, has a statued niche framed by an arched order.  On its left is the 3-storey bell tower with pointed roof.
Diocesan Shrine of St. Anthony of Padua: San Antonio St., Brgy. Sta. Clara, Pila, Laguna.  Feast of St. Anthony of Padua: June 13

Pila Museum (Laguna)

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A short leisurely walk from the town plaza brought us to the Pila Museum, the former Spanish-era escuela pia (school).  This refurbished building, probably the oldest structure in the town, now houses priceless pre-Hispanic Northern Sung (960-1127 AD), Southern Sung (1127-1280 AD) and Yuan Dynasty (1280-1368 AD) Chinese porcelain (plates, jars, jugs, etc.) and tradeware transferred to this heritage building in 1994 by the Pila Historical Society Foundation.

Pila Museum

These were recovered, from May to October 1967, from the Esso Standard Philippines-Manuel Elizalde excavations of an ancient crematorium (the oldest in the country) and habitation sites among the coconut plantations in Brgy. Pinagbayanan and Bagong Pook.  The project was led by Ms. Julita G. Fernandez and Ms. Amelia O. Rogel, graduate students of anthropology from the University of the Philippines.  They were supervised by Dr. Robert Fox and Mr. Avelino Legaspi of the Anthropology Division of the National Museum.

Some 250 to 300 pieces of the finds were donated to the town by Mr. and Mrs. Manuel Elizalde. These include celadon dishes with fish motif; celadon censers; qingbai blue and white jarlets; small, lead-glazed water droppers and teapots; qingbai double gourd vessels; large, gray-glazed ewers; figurines of carabao with riders in plain and spotted qingbai; brown wares of all shapes and sizes; iron and glass bracelets; and colored beads and earrings that appear to be gold or copper.

Home of "The Other Rizal" (Los Banos, Laguna)

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The Paciano Rizal Shrine

My next stop in my Laguna (Calamba City to Sta. Cruz) joy ride with my son Jandy was the charming resort town of Los Banos.  The town is famous for its hot medicinal sulfur springs that flow from the foot of Mt. Makiling and its present name is derived from the Spanish word for “The Baths.” These thermal springs were discovered in 1590 by Franciscan martyr St. Peter Baptist (San Pedro Bautista).   Today, most of the sulfur springs are piped into the pools and baths of the many hot spring resorts that line the National Highway.  This is the Los Banos that most people know and not many people know this town’s association with “the other Rizal.”

The old Los Banos Municipal Hall

To find out, I parked my Toyota Revo at the old municipal hall (a new one is being built along the National Highway).  Beside the town’s fire station is the inconspicuous retirement home of Paciano Mercado Rizal, Jose Rizal‘s elder (and only) brother who was also a revolutionary general (he led the defense of Laguna) and Emilio Aguinaldo‘s first Minister of Finance.  Though not as popular as the Jose Rizal Shrine in Calamba, this shrine, jutting out to Laguna de Bay, was built atop a hot spring in 1927 by Andres Luna de San Pedro (son of master painter Juan Luna) when Paciano’s original nipa hut was destroyed in a typhoon in 1926.

The back of the house

Rizal lived here, as a gentleman-farmer, with 2 helpers (with occasional visits from his grandsons, from daughter Emiliana, Franz and Edmundo), until his death from tuberculosis on April 30, 1930.  First buried in Manila North Cemetery, his remains were later transferred here, with full military honors, in 1985.  A historical marker was installed here on April 13, 1983 and the house was declared as a National Historical Shrine by the National Historical Institute on July 31, 1992.

Laguna de Bay

This modest American-style, one-bedroom bungalow was turned into a Japanese garrison during World War II, resulting in the loss of much of Paciano’s personal effects. Still around are some photos of his grandchildren, binoculars he used during the revolution, a pair of his shoes and a Quiroga bed.  Rizal’s spinster sisters Josefa and Trinidad are also buried in the sprawling garden which has a bronze statue of Paciano Rizal, on a pedestal, in his general’s uniform.  The shrine has a view of Talim Island. At the back of the house is the Paciano Rizal Park.

Church of the Immaculate Conception (Los Banos, Laguna)

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Church of the Immaculate Conception

From the municipal hall, we next drove a short way to the town’s Church of the Immaculate Conception.  First built as a chapel from 1613, it was later destroyed by fire in 1727 and rebuilt in stone on its present site by Fr. Domingo Mateo OFM in 1790.

The church’s interior

The belfry, sacristy and tile roofing were supervised by Fr. Manuel Amat in 1852.  The convent and bell tower were destroyed during the 1863 earthquake but repairs were made during the administration of Frs. Manuel Rodriguez and Gilberto Marin in 1880. During World War II, it was headquarters and garrison for the Japanese forces. Across the church is the Liceo de Los Banos.

Liceo de Los Banos

Church of the Immaculate Conception: Brgy. Timugan, Los Banos, Laguna. Feast o the Immaculate Conception: December 8.

The Country’s Tallest Rizal Monument (Calamba City, Laguna)

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The new Rizal Monument

Unusually August 27 to 30, a long vacation, came and go without me and my son Jandy getting out of town due to Typhoon Mina (international name: Nanmadol). Thus, when the sun shone a bit the next day (still no classes for Jandy), we decided to hop into my Toyota Revo and go on a joy ride around Laguna, from Calamba City to Sta. Cruz, photographing historical sites and old churches along the way.Traveling via the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX), I took the Calamba Exit and made our first stopover at Calamba City, the birthplace of National Hero Jose Rizal, by noon.

The Calamba City Hall

Across the modern, 4-storey City Hall (inaugurated on August 16, 2005) along Bacnotan Road, on a 6.7-hectare government property, is the 6.7 m. (22-ft., representing the 22 languages Rizal spoke) high bronze statue of Rizal, said to be the tallest statue of the National Hero anywhere in the world.  The previous one was a 16-ft. high bronze statue, built by naturalized Jordanian philanthropist Mahmoud Asfour, in Bayombong, Nueva Vizcaya,

It stands on a tiled concrete pedestal mounted on a platform surrounded on all 4 sides by 15-step (representing 150 years) flights of stairs.  Calamba City is also home to the smallest statue of Rizal, a bronze statue of Rizal as a child in the Rizal Shrine,  done by Duddley Diaz and unveiled on June 19, 1998.  The Rizal Shrine is a 10-min. drive from the monument.

Posing beside the plaque

The monument was unveiled, by Pres.  Benigno Aquino III, during the 150th birth anniversary of Rizal  last June 19, 2011.  If measured from its concrete base, the whole monument stands 4 storeys high. The statue, started in December 2010, was designed and executed by 35 year old sculptor Jose Dionas “Jonas” Roces of Marikina City with about a dozen assistants.  Roces also did medium-sized sculpture of Pres. Aquino’s parents, martyred opposition leader Benigno “Ninoy” Aquino Jr. and the late Pres. Corazon Aquino.

NOTE: This Rizal statue was the tallest one from 2011 until 2014 when the 7.93 m. (26 ft.) high bronze Rizal Monument, sculpted by Toym Imao (son of National Artist for Sculpture Abdulmari Asia Imao), was unveiled in Santa Cruz, Laguna for the 2014 Palarong Pambansa  hosted by the province. Depicting Rizal wearing a fencing uniform and holding an epee, it is the only one of its kind in the world.

Rizal Monument: Calamba’s Real Village, Brgy. Real, Calamba City, Laguna.

Stopovers at Sariaya (Quezon) and San Pablo City (Laguna)

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After 4 days in Marinduque where we attended the Moriones Festival and did a lot of sightseeing, it was now time to return to Manila.  It being Easter Sunday, we wanted to avoid   the huge afternoon rush for tickets going home so we went to Balanacan Pier very early in the morning.  I was able to secure tickets for the 8:30 AM trip back to Dalahican Pier in Lucena City (Quezon) on board the Roll-On Roll-Off (RORO) ship MV Maria Rebecca of Montenegro Shipping Lines.

Disembarking the MV Maria Rebecca

The 2.5-hr. boat trip was uneventful and we arrived at Dalahican Port by 11:15 AM.  We promptly boarded my parked Toyota Revo and left the harbor for the return trip to Manila.  Upon reaching Sariaya, we stopped over at a local eatery for a much needed lunch.  As the others were still eating, I decided to burn some calories by making a quick tour of the town, especially the Rodriguez Ancestral House where Jandy and I once stayed in 8 years ago.

The Rodriguez Ancestral House

Together with the others, we dropped by the town’s Church of St. Francis of Assisi. At the back of the church, we visited the devotional park where life-size statues  re-enacting the Last Supper were set up.

We just had lunch but now we’re joining the Last Supper

We again boarded the Revo and continued on our way, exiting Quezon Province and entering Laguna Province at San Pablo City where we made a short stopover at the stone balustrade across the street where we had a panoramic view of the 105-hectare Sampaloc Lake, the largest, nearest and most accessible of the city’s 7 iconic lakes and, from afar, the hazy silhouette of Mt. Cristobal.

Lake Sampaloc

 

Mystical Mt. Makiling (Los Banos, Laguna)

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It was field trip time for my daughter Cheska’s Colegio San Agustin class and Lakbay Kalikasan, Southeast Asia’s first and premier outbound education outfitter, was tasked to organize it.    Mt. Makiling was the selected destination.  Upon invitation by Mr. Ramon Jocson, Lakbay’s Corps Director, I decided to tag along.

Mt. Makiling
This 1,090-m. high, 3-peaked mountain, located 65 kms. southeast of Manila, is, owing to its natural history, the most biologically well-known of Philippine mountain and a favorite for field trips.  The slopes of the mountain form a 4,244-hectare national park covering portions of Bay, Calamba City and Los Baños; all in Laguna, and Sto. Tomas in Batangas.  These places depend on the watershed of the mountain for their domestic water requirements and irrigation while Los Baños’ and Calamba’s resorts and tourism industries depend on it for their hot springs.

 

Most field trips, including this one, enter via U.P. Los Baños (UPLB) which is halfway up the summit.  The mountain is also accessible from Alaminos (Laguna) and, for the extreme adventurer, from the more difficult and barely passable (due to the thick jungle) Sto. Tomas route, on the other side of the mountain.   Makiling is said to be the legendary home of the beautiful local goddess, Mariang Makiling.

According to folklore, she was the beautiful young daughter of two deities: Dayang Makiling and Gat Panahon.  Half goddess, half spirit of the air, she was tall, svelte, sweet, with big black tantalizing eyes, long, black, abundant hair reaching to her ankles, pure brown skin, and enchanting smile and a captivating, melodic voice.  She was born of the rays of the moon and lived in the beautiful mountain, roaming the forest and protecting its wild boars and other animals.

Visible to, and loved and respected by the townspeople, she had a generous heart, scattering golden ginger in the yards of every house in her domain and never turning down a request for help or assistance.  She rewarded hunters, who, at her request, spared the animals.

Her kindness, sympathy and acts of benevolence were often forgotten and disregarded by the people.  To punish them, she denied permission to pick fruits in the forest and prohibited hunting of wild animals. For those who disobeyed, she would cause the sky to grow dark and the heavy rain to fall.  To hunters, she assumes a frightful form and sends them to their death.  She fell in love with a mortal man who proposed to her but backed out before their wedding day and later married a mortal woman.  Despondent, she disappeared into the forest and was never seen again.  Her presence, however, is still felt as she continues to watch over the mountain’s natural bounty.

Makiling is one of the few mountains in Luzon that still has some primary forests.  It originally had lowland dipterocarp forests up to the 600 m. mark but the western and southern flanks are now denuded due to kaingin (slash and burn) farming and logging while the eastern slopes are covered with coconut, banana, coffee and other crops.  However, exotic lowland type dipterocarp forest trees and orchards have been introduced for reforestation at its lower slope, transforming the forest below 300 m. into a “parang” type of vegetation.  Above 900 m. are some montane forest and, at the summit, a dwarf mossy forest.  Makiling is a dormant volcanic massif but remnants of its north wall crater no longer exist.  However, heat still escapes from it in the form of mud springs and hot sulphur springs.       Makiling is also a field laboratory for many environmental and biological researches in UPLB.   Aside from being a favorite for school field trips, Makiling is also a popular camping and hiking area for Boys and Girls Scouts, as well as other camping enthusiasts.  The 10th World Boy Scout Jamboree was held on the mountain from June 17 to 26, 1959 and camping is still done at the BSP Wood Badge Area.

Camping, however, wasn’t in the field trip agenda.  They were here to learn. This outdoor classroom showcases the rich biodiversity of the country, being home to 2,038 species of vascular flora (85% of Philippine flora spread out in 949 genera, 19 sub-species and 167 varieties), 24 species of mammals (10 families and 19 genera) and 21 species of amphibians (4 families and 8 genera), 10 of which are endemic. Bryoflora includes giant ferns, 34 species of mosses and 42 species of liverworts.   About 60% of all known fungi have also been found here.     Popular with bird watchers, the mountain is home to 163 species of birds (spread out in 110 genera and 16 families).

Museum of Natural History
A repository for all these biological specimens is the Museum of Natural History, located immediately to the left of the archway going into the College of Forestry and Natural Resources. Housed in a former student dormitory of UPLB, here students are awed by its collection of more than 200,000 Philippine plants, animals, microorganisms and other bioda.  Most of the late Prof. Dioscoro Rabor’s priceless collections are also housed here. Its exhibits feature, among others, the Philippine eagle, tamaraw, tarsier; snails in Mt. Makiling and Laguna de Bay; Philippine plants, forests, shells; Philippine cobras, marine turtles and mammals; and a Philippine map made of 4,012 locusts and lahar from Mt. Pinatubo. A visit here is the piece de resistance for any Makiling field trip.

Rizal Shrine (Calamba City, Laguna)

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After hearing mass at the Church of St. John the Baptist in Calamba City, Jandy Cheska and I crossed over to visit the Rizal Shrine, the birthplace of our National Hero Jose Rizal.  This bahay na bato, the first in Calamba, took two years for Rizal’s father to build. Now a property of the national government and administered and maintained by the National Historical Institute (NHI), this reproduction of the original Spanish Colonial-style, 2-storey house has a red tile roof, thick stone ground floor walls, doors wide enough for a carriage to enter, wooden upper walls of narraand molave and balustrades and capiz shell windows.  

Rizal Shrine


However, we weren’t allowed to take pictures inside.  Its controversial stairway (questioned by old folks to be slightly misplaced saying it should have been a little closer to the wall), with its circular base, leads to the caida (the banquet hall which served as library to Don Francisco and is in turned connected to the sala(living room) by an ornate doorway.  On both sides of the sala are the bedrooms. The house contains replicas of Rizal’s antique family furniture, household articles, library and Rizal memorabilia. Antique items include a very old coffee grinder, a punka (ceiling fan) and a water filter that purifies water from the well.  In the garden are various Philippine fruit trees, an empty stable with a square-shaped calesaon the side and a bronze statue of Rizal as a child done by Duddley Diaz (unveiled on 19 June 1998). The shrine also has a souvenir shop.

 
 
 
Rizal Shrine: J.P. Rizal St. (formerly Calle Real), Calamba City, Laguna.  Lectures and guiding services can be arranged. Open Tuesdays to Saturdays, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM.  Admission is free.  Tel: (092) 545-2010.  
 
How to Get There: Calamba City is located 55 kms. from Manila and is accessible via the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX).  Take the Calamba Exit.
 

Church of Pope St. Gregory the Great (Majayjay, Laguna)

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Before departing for Manila, we passed by the Majayjay town center to visit the town’s imposing Spanish-era Church of Pope St. Gregory the Great.  A wedding was in progress when we arrived.  Named after the town’s patron saint (whose feast is held on 12 March), the church suffered successive destruction by fires (1576, 1606, 1660 and 1711) before it was strengthened and enlarged, to its massive and present form, from 1711 to 1734 by Fr. Jose de Puertollano through the forced labor of its 4,000 townspeople.

Church of Pope St. Gregory the Great

The church was again repaired in 1839, 1842 and 1848, because of typhoon damage, and further improved in 1892 when its roof was replaced with galvanized iron by Fr. Gregorio Platero.   During the Philippine-American War, the church became the headquarters of American forces.  The church was repaired again in 1912.

The church interior

This unusually tall, stone and brick colonial Baroque church, with its commanding view of the town and Laguna de Bay, has 6-m. thick adobe walls covered with vines and moss, vaulted halls and enormous and unusual 16.5-m. high solid buttresses supporting a bell tower (with 5 century-old bells) at the rear.  Of equally huge proportions, the tower is topped by a pointed roof and is accessed by concrete steps that also lead to a catwalk above the ceiling (called langit-langitan) that, in turn, leads to the crossing above the transept. The 60-m. long and 17-m. wide nave has balconies on both sides, 3 impressive altars, antique relief statues of saints, azulejo-tiled floor and 5 elaborate retablos (altar backdrops) constructed on the wide pilasters supporting the lateral bays of the capiz window-lined transept.  The adjacent convent, one of the earliest surviving examples in the country, houses a small museum of old parish documents and ecclesiastical silver.  It was slightly defaced when part of it was converted into St. Gregory Academy (later to be renamed Liceo de Majayjay). 

After our church visit, we again passed by Mr. Flory Rosales’ home to thank him personally for the assistance he gave us.  The ladies and Robert also went to the nearby market to buy the fruit of the month of October – lanzones.  As I would say, “Never leave Majayjay without it!” (a pun of the American Express commercial).  I stayed behind to do some people-watching.  One thing noticeable is the unusual number of horse-riding men I saw passing me by.  Majayjay certainly is not your one-horse town.   After a while, my companions returned, all toting 5 kgs. each (at PhP37 per kilo) of the luscious fruit.  These, plus the extra pasalubong of lanzones Mr. Rosales gave us, made us look more like visiting fruit dealers.  Thus fully laden, we all happily went our way back to Manila.