On our first full day in Vancouver Island we drove 24 kms. (a 20-min. drive), from Qualicum Bay Resort in the town of Qualicum Beach, to the nearby touristy town of Coombs. The town had its beginnings in 1910 when, under the leadership of Ensign Cargo, the Coombs area was settled by some of the nearly 250,000 Welsh and English members of the Salvation Army who immigrated to Canada early in the twentieth century. The town was named after Capt. Thomas Bales Coombs, the Salvation Army’s Canadian Commissioner.
We parked our car near the nearly 80-year old Grace United Church. This Salvation Army church, built in 1945, was designed by Sam Little of St. Andrew’s Lodge in Qualicum Beach. Our dog Luffy was allowed around the market and patios (but not in stores unless they are service dogs).
Our first stop, and a must-see, is the town’s Old Country Market (more often known as “Goats on the Roof”), a charming roadside shop providing fresh produce, groceries and gifts to travelers heading to the west coast of Vancouver Island. Known for its grass-topped roof with a family of resident goats, over the years it has evolved and grown into a beloved landmark of Coombs. The goats are generally on the roof, 24/7, from the May long weekend until late October. During the off-season, they call a nearby farm in French Creek, near Parksville, their home, but they can also be seen in the grassy field beside Cuckoo’s Restaurant.
In 1973, the original market was created by Kristian Graaten who, with his wife Solveig and their children, emigrated to Vancouver Island from Norway in the 1950s. Kris grew up in Lillehammer, a small community of Norway, where many Norwegian homes and farm structures are built directly into the hillside, with the sod roof becoming an extension of the hillside. Inspired to include a sod roof in his design of the market Kris, with the help of sons, Svein and Andy, and son-in-law, Larry Geekie, unwittingly began to build what would become perhaps the most famous sod-roof building in the world.
The grass on the roof was higher than Kristian liked. It was the weekend of the Coombs Fall Fair and the grass was getting rather long. Legend has it that, after a few glasses of wine, Larry suggested that they “borrow” some goats to “mow” the grass and perhaps provide some entertainment for passing cars. Needless to say, the goats became an instant hit with locals and tourists alike.
Today, the Old Country Market is now owned and operated by Larry and Lene Geekie and their family who keep retooling and expanding their retail concept. Three of their children work with Larry, managing different aspects of the business and buying merchandise from India and China as well as other international markets.
The market sells international foods, fresh-baked goods, imported gifts from the far reaches of the world, and a superb delicatessen specializing in a variety of international meats and cheeses. There is also an on-site restaurant. What impressed us, within its eclectic Toy and Import Section, was the Rolife DIY miniature house kits and 3D wooden puzzles, especially the diorama and book nook sets. They were quite expensive though.
Nearby is Billy Gruff Creamery (opened March 10, 2016), an ice cream shop with one of the best selections of ice cream, homemade gelato (rich, creamy and bursting with flavor), affogato and sorbeto found on Vancouver Island. Here, we bought double scoops, on waffle cones and cups, of some of their over 70 flavor choices, including 8 dairy-free options.
It had a unique ordering process of paying first and then placing your order which adds to their charm. However, you have to select the scoop without tasting. The serving size for the price was topnotch. They also offer vegan options like banana and walnut bread as well as Buddha bowls and sushi treats.
Across from the famous Old Country Market is Statue Square, a delightful, not-so-hidden gem. This charming open-air courtyard, outside the huge Coombs Emporium, is another popular roadside stop for families and photographers as filling the square is an impressive collection of large, massive hand-carved and intricate carvings of animal figures (lions, camels, fish, birds, giraffes, orangutans, etc.), a couple of Chinese and Hindu Buddhas, mythological shapes, Native American gods, and polished stone and marble art pieces as well as wooden sculptures of bosomy women that have left us pleasantly surprised. The exhibit is free.
Rather than by a single named local artist, the monumental statues were crafted by traditional stone artisans (they are not named or credited publicly) from China commissioned and imported by the Lee family (the emporium’s owners) as part of their extensive international art collected over 40 years. Some of the individual pieces weigh up to 9 tons plus some of the complex sculptures took artisans up to 7 years to complete. The wooden sculptures, on the other hand, were hand-carved by Indonesian and other Southeast Asian sculptors. These certainly add character to the area and are still worth exploring for their beauty and uniqueness.
The square is surrounded by small boutique buildings sharing a similar tourist-market vibe selling jewelry, imported crafts, clothing, and chainsaw wood carvings. Nearby, beside the road, is whimsical Fairy Castle which even has a goat on the pointed roof to tie it into the rest of the area.
Old Country Market: 2326 Alberni Highway, Coombs, British Columbia V0R 1M0. Tel: (250) 248-6272. Website: www.oldcountrymarket.com. Open daily from roughly March to December, usually around 9 AM to 6 PM.
Billy Gruff Creamery & Bistro: 2310 Alberni Highway, Coombs, British Columbia V0R 1M0. Tel: (250) 248-6272. Open daily, 10 AM – 5 PM.
Coombs Emporium: 2300 Alberni Highway, Coombs, British Columbia V0R 1M0. Tel: (250) 248-5895. Open daily, 9 AM – 5 PM.
