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| Provincial Capitol |
Our early morning tour of the city was an eye opener for both Charlie and me. The major roads here were very wide, even by Manila standards (and cleaner), some even able to accommodate 10 cars side by side. In spite of the light traffic (even during rush hours), many of these roads are designated as one way. And wonder of wonders: no tricycles allowed! I really liked this city with its unhurried pace, a truly refreshing and relaxing departure from the demands and pressures of a big metropolis like Manila. The cities of Iloilo and Bacolod are similar in that they both have an Ilonggo-speaking populace. Not quite similar though. The city’s 429,076 (2000 figure) Bacoleños, both men and women, seem to speak Ilonggo with a more languorous and seductive (malambing) lilting accent, truly endearing and pleasant to hear. Now I know why my Kapampangan father fell in love with my mother. Also, the Bacoleños’ also have an easy-going, old world charm, gracious hospitality and natural knack for entertaining.
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| Downtown Bacolod |
Bacolod is also a showcase for the old and new, of harmony and contrast. Aside from its well-planned road system, the city is also experiencing an unprecedented construction boom of sorts, with new shopping malls (Robinsons, Gaisano, etc.), office buildings, specialty restaurants, hotels and other mega structures being built, all reflecting the life of gentility and taste, for the finest, Bacoleños are noted for. Of particular interest for me, however, are the city’s old structures, reflecting its glorious Spanish and American-era past.
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| Robinson’s Bacolod |
A relic of the city’s Spanish past is the San Sebastian Cathedral, along Rizal St., flanking the plaza. The present structure, using Guimaras Island coral, was built upon the initiative of Recollect Fr. Mauricio Ferrero and completed, on January 20, 1882, by Fr. Fernando Cuenca. It became a cathedral on 23 June 1933. In 1936, the cathedral was repaired and improved by Bishop Casimiro M. Lladoc. In 1976, the 100th year anniversary of the cathedral, its bells were brought down from the belfry and mounted on the right side of the churchyard. Beside the cathedral is the Palacio Episcopal (bishop’s palace), the seat of the diocese of the province. Started in 1830 by Fr. Julian Gonzaga, it was completed only in the 1890s and was, during the revolution, a refuge of Spanish military and civil officials.
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| San Sebastian Cathedral |
Our visit to the Provincial Planning Office allowed us a peek of the American-era Provincial Capitol along Gatuslao St.. This Roman Neo-Classical-style building, built from 1927 to 1933 and based on Daniel Burnham’s (the planner of Baguio City) design, is located in front of the park and lagoon (a popular spot for joggers and strollers). Because of its fine symmetry and proportion, it is considered as the most beautiful capitol building in the country.