Monthly Archives: April 2011

Surfing 101 at Bagasbas (Daet, Camarines Norte)

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Learning the basics from BUSA president Ryan Vito

We were now on our last day in Daet and, after covering the 4th Bagasbas Summer Surf Festival, we took time out to learn surfing ourselves.  It would be my second time to try (and failing miserably on 10 tries) and a first for Mark.  Joining us at the surfing clinic was ABC TV5 correspondent Justine Santos, also a second time surfing student.  Mr. Ryan Francis V. Vito, president of the Bagasbas United Surfers Association (BUSA), was on hand to personally teach us the basics of surfing.

Jasmine Santos learning to lie down on the board

First, we were taught the parts of the surfboard.  Then, with the surfboard on the sand, Ryan taught us how to lie down on a surfboard (centered along the stringer), with the toes of our feet touching the tail-end (called the tail block) and making sure that the board is not tilting left or right while we’re trying it. Next, we were taught to push up on the board, with our hands on the sides (called the “rails”) of the board, then when up, to drag one foot up under us in the center of the board and, finally, to push up on our front foot into a standing position, using our arms like legs to push it up. Sounds easy.  Well, it was easier said than done.

Dennis Suing trying to learn the proper stance

Ryan assigned an instructor for each of us.  Champion surfer Ms. Lolita “Mocha” F. Edusma was   assigned to Jasmine while Mr. Joemel Bermejo, Mr. Rolan “Nash” Raro and Mr. Salvador “Onyo” Oclares were assigned to us guys.  BUSA’s instructors were the first in Philippines to be trained by the Academy of Surfing Instructors.  We headed down the beach, away from any surfers, our surfboards harnessed to our ankles. After walking some distance from the shore, I slowly mounted my surfboard with my instructor on the lookout for whitewater, waves that are crested and broken and rolling in long even white lines toward the beach.  With the approach of whitewater, I was told to get ready and whoosh!!!, the whitewater  slowly catches my board and lifts it up as I struggle to stand up and keep my balance while doing so.  Try as I did, I failed to do so with each try, falling each time just as I was getting my footing, getting a face full of salt water every time. I finally gave up when the board hit and sprained my wrist.

Mark Nunez with his instructor Onyo Oclares

I gladly surrendered my board and my instructor to ABC TV5 cameraman Mr. Amor Casiano while the other cameraman Mr. Dencio “Dennis” Suing filmed on. Then, it was Dennis’ turn to try it with Amor manning the camera.  In both cases, as in my case, the waves won with every try, with wipe outs the rule and not the exception.  The same was true with Mark and Jasmine.  Well, better luck next time.  Just, the same it was an experience we would gladly like to try again and again.   Hopefully, there will be a next time.  The waves of Daet haven’t seen the last of us.

Calaguas Islands (Vinzons, Camarines Norte)

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A pristine paradise discovered

Part of my itinerary during my first week of February visit to Camarines Norte was to camp overnight at the famed Calaguas Islands, a group of 17 islands northeast of Daet under the jurisdiction of the town of Vinzons.   This was not to be as three days of continuous rain prevented us from doing so.  Two months later, I was again invited back in the province during the peak of summer, covering the 4th Bagasbas Summer Festival in Daet with blogger Mark Vincent Nunez.  This time the weather was perfect, with bright sunshine, clear skies and calm seas, and Mark and I were again invited by Provincial Tourism Officer Atty. Debbee Francisco to visit these islands  famed for their Boracay-like (minus the commercial development) white sand beaches.

Minaongan Fish Port in Paracale

Aside from Debbee and Mr. Amable Miranda, a member of her staff, and ABC TV 5 crew Ms. Justine Santos and cameramen Mr. Amor Casiano and Mr. Dencio Suing; Mark and I were joined by participants of the summer surf festival who availed of the special participant’s price of PhP1,350 per person (normal rates range between PhP1,800-2,300) which included the boat ride to and from the island, tents and two meals with snacks. They include Ms. Joie Lacson, Ms. Iya Yujuico, Ms. Katrina Cruz, Ms. Lei Reinares and Mr. Philipp Cabales of www.pakyaw.com; Mr. Arnel Pahuway of World Vision; and Mr. Darryll Montebon of Jubilee Christian Academy.

Survivor Calaguas

From Daet, we all boarded a van for the 38-km. drive to Minaongan Fish Port in Paracale, arriving there by 2:30 PM.  Here, we all boarded a large, 25-pax outrigger boat.  Provisions for our overnight stay were loaded as well.  The boat ride took all of two hours, passing a number of rocky outcrops and beautiful islands with white sand beaches, and we landed on a cove called Mahabang Buhangin (“long sand”) at the 8 km. long Tinaga Island, the most frequented camping and swimming site for tourists. The beach was everything it was hyped up to be: powdery fine white sand, crystal clear waters and blue skies.

On our way

It was now late in the afternoon (4:45 PM) when we landed and, once the provisions were landed, we all set up our respective tents in a shaded area, Mark and I staying in one of the seven tents.  A comfortable hammock was already in place.  As the beach faced the west, we were in for a magnificent sunset show.  After a delicious dinner of grilled fish and chicken, we all shared a good chat and laughs while toasting marshmallows over a bonfire. It was already late in the night when we called it a day.

Sunset at Mahabang Buhangin

Come morning, we awoke to a delicious Filipino breakfast of fried rice, fried egg, hot coffee and crispy dilis (anchovies) and espada.   Dabbing on a lot of sunblock, we all savored the sand, sun and sea, doing snorkeling, sunbathing as well as swimming.  Later, some of us tried to burn our excess calories by walking along the beach and then climbing up a nearby hill.   The view up there was fantastic, with a bird’s eye view of Mahabang Buhangin on one side and the nearby Guintinua Island and other smaller islands on the other side.  A photographer’s dream, it was truly beauty from every camera angle. which we all indulged in, kamayan style.

Mahabang Buhangin seen from the hill

Our cameras also espied boatloads of tourists coming in from the mainland, it being a Sunday weekend.  It was time to go and, it was with regret that we went down the hill.  Back on the beach, many boats were unloading their cargo of tourists, surfer friend Mr. Oween Andrade and his family among them, plus their provisions.  It was just fitting that we left by 10 AM, giving up our campsite to these tourists, as we wanted to avoid the influx of this maddening crowd.  We thus left the island with bittersweet memories, hoping one day to again savor its beauty. Quoting from the lyrics of an Ogie Alcasid song, “Sana Maulit Muli.”

Posing with Guintinua Island on the background

 

The Famous Salt Beds of Dasol (Pangasinan)

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The famous salt beds of Dasol

After our lunch and ocular visit of Dasoland, we again boarded our van to finally make our way back to Manila.  Its been a very busy and educational three days in Pangasinan. However, we haven’t traveled far when we espied the famous salt beds of Dasol.  We therefore stopped along the highway to take pictures of these fascinating man-made creations.  The  province’s name was derived from the word panag-asinan (“place where salt is made”) and Dasol is one of only four Pangasinan towns (the others are Anda, Bani and Bolinao) that produce salt.

Baskets of raw salt

These salt beds, glistening whitely in the late afternoon sun, have sluices that are opened to allow about 3 inches of sea water from  the incoming ocean tides of Dasol Bay to pour into and be trapped in a checkerboard of shallow ponds lined with grayish-brown clay and paved with shards of clay pots, similar to inland rice paddies.  The impounded water is allowed to naturally evaporate in the sun for a few hours, after which thin crusts of salt crystals would form on the surface and sink to the bottom of the pond.  The resulting encrusted salt is then raked, gathered into small neat piles, scooped into baskets and then transferred to a bigger pile in a hut.  The raw salt is then brought to the cooking sheds to be washed, boiled and condensed into pure rock salt. During the rainy season, the salt beds are converted into fish ponds.

Church of the Holy Child (Mabini, Pangasinan)

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Church of the Holy Child

The Church of the Holy Child, already in existence in the 19th century, has withstood several natural and man-made calamities over the past decades.  In 1832, a great flood submerged the convent and, in 1852, the church was struck by a lightning. It was repaired by Fr. Mariano Torrente (1858 to 1872) and, after a flood in 1881, by Fr. Epifanio Vergara (1893 to 1898).

The church’s Early Renaissance facade

A strong earthquake on December 12, 1999, destroyed the 1830 church, collapsing the stone walls, facade, and the altar but leaving a few structural components and the foundation intact. In 2005, the church was restored and blessed and, in 2006, the old convent and the parish office were transferred to the other side of the church which used to be a chapel before the restoration of the church.

The altar retablo

The church’s Early Renaissance facade has tall, paired Doric columns on pedestals reaching up to the pediment and flanking the semicircular arch main entrance.  Above it are semicircular arched windows while the pediment has a statued niche flanked by circular windows.  The bell tower is a later addition.

Plaque commemorating the quadricentennial of the parish

Church of the Holy Child: Sto. Niño St., Brgy. Poblacion, Mabini, Pangasinan. Feast of the Holy Child: Third Sunday of January.

How to Get There: Mabini is located 322 kms. from Manila an 54.5 kms. (a 1-hour drive) from Lingayen via the Olongapo-Bugallon Rd..

Balingasay River (Bolinao, Pangasinan)

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The clean, multi-awarded Balingasay River


On the way back to the Tourist Center from Enchanted Cave in Bolinao, we made a short stopover at a bridge to photograph the 7-km. long, pristine and now fishpen-free Balingasay River (Brgy. Balingasay),  twice winner of the Gawad Pangulo sa Kapaligiran Award for inland bodies of water in the Ilocos Region and a recipient of the highly prestigious Wetlands Conservation Award in 1994. Set aside as a protected seascape, this river, noted for its scenic beauty and biodiversity, has 15 hectares of century-old and new growth mangroves areas, 30 hectares of of attap palms (used for nipa hut roofing), wild ferns and balete trees hanging into the water.  These protect the river from erosion and pollution.  Different species of wild birds (locally called kiaw and pagaw) also make their home atop the trees and wild ducks, lizards, monkeys and wild boar also make their home in the forest.

Some boats parked at the river mouth

The Balingasay River is fed by Quibuar Spring, Bolinao Falls and several other springs and creeks. Fresh water meets the sea water of the South China Sea toward the middle of the river,  a perfect environment for unique fish (malaga, lapu-lapu, etc.) and shellfish (crabs, shrimps and oysters) species to flourish.  Boats from the bridge can be rented (PhP500) to explore the river which connects 5 villages to the town proper, located 5.5 kms. from the mouth of the river. Aside from regular outrigger boats, some boats that ferry villagers are made, through Filipino ingenuity, from discarded wings of World War II airplanes secured from the former U.S. Naval Base in Subic.  The wings are fitted with bamboo and wood as “balancers” and then wooden seats are installed for 12 people.

Enchanted Cave (Bolinao, Pangasinan)

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Enchanted Cave

After our Solomon’s Paradise sojourn, we next proceeded along the road to Enchanted Cave, one of three caves (the others are Cindy’s Cave and Wonderful Cave) in Brgy. Patar in Bolinao.  Located in a private property it is, however, open to the public (in early 2000) but, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee of PhP30 if you’ll just look at the place and take pictures, and PhP40 if you’ll swim.  This was to be my second visit to the cave (the first was in March 2005).  The owner allowed us entry into the premises and, as we were in a rush, skipped the usual orientation by its staff. Along its paved walkway amidst a lush garden and huts, we noticed, mixed with the garden landscape, fossilized remains of giant clams discovered in the hilltop, 2 kms. from the cave, and estimated to be about 2-3 million years old.   The fact that it was a cave made of coral limestone is evidence that the place was under water for millions of years and that the beach head of Bolinao extended almost a kilometer from the current beach line.

Fossilized clams

We then carefully went down, through a small opening with paved steps and railing, to the cave’s 30-m. freshwater (which some say is unusual for a coral cave) pool with cool and crystal clear water. Adequately lit, it was very humid and musty inside.  According to the caretaker, the pool, connected to an underground river, has depths of 3-6 ft., during low tide, and 3-10 ft. during high tide.  Swimmers are restricted by management from entering certain areas clearly marked by ropes.  Some scenes in the 1996 movie Ang Pinakamagandang Babae sa Balat ng Lupa (starring Ruffa Gutierrez) and the popular 2008 GMA 7 telenovela Dyesebel (starring Marian Rivera and Dingdong Dantes) were shot here.  Actor Piolo Pascual was also said to have visited the cave.

Enchanted Cave: Brgy. Patar, Bolinao, Pangasinan.

Abrac Beach and Solomon’s Paradise (Bolinao, Pangasinan)

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Abrac Beach

After our Cape Bolinao Lighthouse tour, we proceeded to nearby Abrac Beach for an ocular visit.  This white sand beach, open to the public, has no entrance fee but has native-style picnic huts for rent (PhP150-300) and a number of souvenir shops selling snacks, T-shirts (promoting Bolinao of course), shell handicrafts and other souvenirs.  The Treasures of Bolinao Resort can be seen to the right of the beach.  Going down to the beach from our picnic hut was via a steep berm.

Solomon’s Paradise main building

We next moved on to the 3-km. long Patar Beach where we visited Solomon’s Paradise Bar Grill Resort.  Operated by the nice and friendly Australian Brett Solomon and opened last March 2008, the place truly lived up to its name, being located in a short but very private white sand cove between towering, wave undercut rock formations. Both rock formations have two sea-sculpted caves and each had small huts on top where one could do quiet contemplation while enjoying the invigorating sea breeze and admiring the huge South China Sea waves crashing against the rocky shore, a scene truly reminiscent of the movie “Wuthering Heights.”    

Native-style accommodations

The resort has a main building with roof deck (where you can watch the sunset or dine al fresco) and a well-stocked bar.  Behind it are accommodations for guests consisting of a native-style rowhouse with 3×4 m. fan-cooled rooms (PhP1,600-2,000 for 2 people and PhP2,500-2,900 for 4 people) with common verandah.  In front is a beach volleyball playing area.  Common toillets and baths for guests are located at the main building.  The resort is a 3-min. drive from Cape Bolinao Lighthouse.  Though we arrived at the resort during high surf, during calmer moments guests can swim at private coral-lined “bathtubs” and explore the sea caves.  Maybe next time we could make that happen.

Solomon’s Paradise cove
Solomon’s Paradise Bar Grill Resort: Patar Beach, Abrac, Brgy. Patar, Bolinao, Pangasinan. Mobile numbers: (0905) 398-1470 (Globe) and (0928) 474-8845 (Smart). E-mail: solomonsparadise@yahoo.com.  Website: www.solomonsparadise.multiply.com.

Cape Bolinao Lighthouse (Pangasinan)

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Cape Bolinao Lighthouse

After our visit to Bolinao Marine Laboratory, we were invited by our host for lunch at Bolinao‘s Tourist Center.  After lunch, we next drove up a 107–m. (351-ft.) high promontory in Brgy. Patar called Punta Piedra Point. On top was the century-old Cape Bolinao Lighthouse, built by American, Filipino and British engineers in 1903 and one of 5 major lighthouses in the country. The original apparatus was made in England and its lantern, with three wicks and chimney, was imported from France.  This 30.79-m. (101-ft.) high lighthouse, the second tallest lighthouse (after Cape Bojeador Lighthouse in Burgos, Ilocos Norte) in the country and 1 of 2 in the town (there is another small lighthouse in Guiguiwanen, Brgy. Luciente 1), guards the entrance to Lingayen Gulf and its light, could be seen 44 kms. (26 miles) out.  It is operated by the Philippine Coast Guard (PCG).

Destruction wrought by typhoon Emong

During the lighthouse’s first 80 years of operation, it was fueled by kerosene . When the Pangasinan I Electric Cooperative extended its power lines to Patar, the lanterns were powered by electricity.  Just like my first visit in 2005, I wasn’t able to climb its 134-step winding stairway as its gate was locked and the caretaker nowhere to be found.  It was also depressing to see the destruction wrought by Typhoon Emong which unroofed its administration building.  Solar panels which recharged its two beacon lights, set up via a 1999 loan package extended by the Japanese government, were also destroyed.  Just the same, the lighthouse still remains an attraction by itself. Spectacular sunsets and the deep blue sea can be watched at its view deck.  

Bolinao Marine Laboratory (Pangasinan)

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Bolinao Marine Laboratory

After our brief rest stopover at El Pescador Beach Resort, we proceeded to the Bolinao Marine Laboratory (BML), the official marine station, started in 1983, of the Marine Science Institute (MSI), University of the Philippines.The BML, located 2 kms. from Bolinao town proper, has a main laboratory building (with research lab and classrooms), administration building, staff houses, dormitories and a land-based hatchery.  A venue for research work, BML also aims to be a focal point for extension activities involving the municipality and the various communities inhabiting the coast; serve as an educational exhibit center for research activities on marine science; to offer direct service to the local community in the form of environmental education programs and; to assist in the formulation of coastal management plans for the municipality.

Giant clams

At BML, we observed the laboratory’s propagation of the endangered giant clam (Family Tridacnidae),  sea urchins and certain species of sea cucumbers through grow out culture and sea ranching.  The sea cucumber Holothuria scabra, one of the most expensive if not the most expensive in the market, are, once bred, are then planted in research pens in Santiago Island.  Sea urchins (scientific name: Tripneustes gratilla), locally called uni, have been overharvested by fishermen in the 1980s and 90s for the Japanese market. These too are bred, fed with processed sea weeds (sargassum) in a hatchery and re-seeded.  BML also does habitat restoration (e.g., coral transplantation) and sets up marine protected areas for coral and sea grass conservation. 

Bolinao Marine Laboratory: U.P. Marine Science Institute (MSI), Brgy. Luciente 1, Bolinao, Pangasinan.  Tel: (075) 541-8022 ext. 102. E-mail: chin445@yahoo.com.

Church of St. James the Great (Bolinao, Pangasinan)

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Church of St. James the Great

After an early morning breakfast at the Capitol Resort Hotel in Lingayen, we again boarded our van for the premier tourism town of Bolinao, a major destination during our 3-day (April 4-6, 2011) Pangasinan Media Tour.  Here, it 69,568 townspeople speak the unique Bolinawen dialect.  This wasn’t my first visit to this paradise place, having gone there during a 2005 Holy Week break with my son Jandy and two friends at Patar Beach. Four years after my first visit, on May 7, 2009, super typhoon Emong (international code name: Chan Hom, packing winds of 150 kph with a gustiness of 185 kph) made a 7 PM landfall in Bolinao and, in less than an hour, damaged 80-90% of its houses, blocked roads with fallen trees, destroyed 95% of its aquaculture industry and killed at least 20 people (with 4 missing), mostly fish cage caretakers who stayed on their makeshift huts.

Municipal Hall

However, nothing could really bring a good town down and, through the cooperation of its townspeople, the town has somehow recovered.  We arrived in town in the midst of a high school graduation in front of the town hall and first visited its venerable Church of St. James the Great. This solid, stone church, built by the Augustinian Recollects in 1609, used to double as a fortress against attacks by pirates, the English, Japanese and Americans.  Today, this church (as well as 25 other churches) is listed by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure. 

The church interior

The church’s roof and ceiling were damaged during the typhoon but its roof and its trusses (now steel) have since been replaced though still ceiling-less. However, the impressive High Renaissance façade, with its weathered wooden santos in the niches, the bell tower and the beautiful, intricately carved retablos and pulpit remain intact.

Fr. Odorico Marker

In front of the church is a memorial marker which challenges the accepted historical fact of the March 31, 1521 first Mass held at Limasawa in Southern Leyte. Instead, the town claims that, in 1324, an Italian (from Friuli) Franciscan Fr. Odorico, en route to China for missionary work, encountered stormy weather and sought refuge at Bolinao Bay.  While on land, he celebrated a thanksgiving Mass and also baptized the natives, making him the first evangelizer in the Philippines.  The marker was donated by Italian priest Fr. Luigi Malamocco, 62, also from Fr. Odorico’s hometown of  Friuli, Italy.