Casa Real (Basco, Batanes)

Casa Real (now the Provincial Capitol Building)

After our tour of the Valugan Boulder Beach, we again boarded our van for the short 3-km. (10-min.) drive to the 2-storey Provincial Capitol Building.  Formerly the Casa Real, it was originally built from wood, during the term (1783-1785) of Don José Huelva y Megarejo, the province’s first governor.

Check out “Valugan Boulder Beach

The building was renovated during the term (1794-1798) of governor Felimon Zenoreta who introduced masonry in Batanes. On December 15, 1856, the Casa Real burned down and it was reconstructed, in stone, in 1872 during the term (1872-1885) of Governor Jose Serra.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2013

On September 18, 1898, Governor Julian Fortea, the last Spanish governor of Batanes, was killed here when revolutionaries stormed the building.  After World War II, under the Philippine Rehabilitation Act of 1946, the capital was restored including the façade.  The stairs was rebuilt to provide a grand entrance.

The Capitol was expanded, during the administration (1989-1998) of Governor Telesforo F. Castillejos, with the construction of the three annex buildings from August 1989 to January 1993 and, on March 18, 1993, the capitol was inaugurated by President Fidel V. Ramos.

During the term (1998-2007) of Governor Vicente Gato, the buildings in the capital building complex were expanded and renovated to address the need for provincial government’s offices. It was inaugurated on March 24, 2007.

Statue of Aman Dangat

To the left of the building is the Statue of Aman Dagat. Also known as Kenan, this mangpus (tribal leader) of Malakdang led about 150 Isabtangs who rose in revolt one moonless night in September 1791 and crossed the treacherous sea to attack the Spanish mission house on Batan Island, killing seven non-Ivatan agents of the Spanish government who poached fruits and timber from Sabtang without payment.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2014

Aman Dagat was later hanged and the natives of Sabtang were exiled to the districts of San Felix and San Vicente in Ivana for the next 50 years (1791-1841).

Memorial to Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and World War II

Behind this statue is the Memorial to the Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and World War II which was unveiled on June 25, 1993, the 210th founding anniversary of Batanes,

Kilometer Zero Marker

In front of the Casa Real is the Kilometer Zero Marker and the Bantayog-Wika. The former is the reference point where all distances on Batan Island are measured from.  It is one of three such in the province, the other being in Sabtang Island  (along the National Road, near the port and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer) and the other in Itbayat  (within the Municipal Grandstand and park).

Check out “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

Bantayog-Wika

The Bantayog-Wika (Language Marker), a project of Sen. Loren Legarda, the local government and the Komisyon ng Wikang Filipino (KWF) recognizing the Ivatan language, was unveiled on April 8, 2019 (Basco Day).  This marker, the 14th installed in the country, seeks to identify areas where the country’s 130 languages originated.  Created by installation artist Luis “Junyee” Yee, Jr. in stainless steel, is inscribed (using laser technology), in baybayin letters, with several lines of Andres Bonifacio’s poem Pag-Ibig sa Tinubuang Bayan which was published in the first issue of Kalayaan, the Katipunan newsletter, in 1896.

Provincial Capitol Building: National Rd., 3900 Basco.  Mobile number: (0917) 326-3744.  E-mail: batanesinformation@gmail.com.

How to Get There: from Basco Airport, take the Diversion Road and turn left into National Road. The Provincial Capitol of Batanes is on the right side.

Valugan Boulder Beach (Basco, Batanes)

Valugan Boulder Beach

After our tour of the Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel, we gain boarded our van for the 8.3-km. (20-min.) drive to the 3-km. long, scenic Valugan Boulder Beach.

Check out “Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel

Known to the locals as Chanpan, this beach is located along the eastern (valugan means “east” in Ivatan) coast of Batan Island is, as its name suggests, made up of medium to big size boulders, of different colors, that help create an incredible landscape framed by almost vertical cliffs and rolling hills. Smaller pebbles and shingles litter the southern end.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

The boulders here were said to have been coughed out around the northern half of Batan during a series of volcanic explosions, from 325 B.C. and 286 to 505 A.D., of Mt. Iraya, a nearby active stratovolcano, which also contributed to the formation of the impressive cliffs and rolling hills framing the beach.

Mt. Iraya seen at the end of the beach

These rough andesite rocks were then slowly polished, over time, by the tides and the mighty wind (which also help shaped the striking basalt cliffs) pushing the restless waves of the Pacific Ocean to lap the rough rocks.

The different size boulders along the beach

From the beach, only the loud whistling of the wind and constant rumbling of the Pacific Ocean can be heard as the waves come slapping the shore. While it is a beach, swimming is not allowed here due to the area’s rough terrain and the strong and unpredictable waves. Bringing home any stones from the beach is also prohibited.

The concrete viewing deck with benches

On the rightmost area of the beach are small, intentionally segregated Zen stones piled on top of each other.  Surprisingly, this surreal and breathtaking landscape makes for a relaxing setting especially for photographers who come here to catch the sunrise.

Stairs leading down to the beach

The waters off the coast are considered as a sacred fishing area of Ivatan fishermen (especially those from Brgy. San Joaquin) and the faypatawen, a traditional fishing season, is observed from March to the end of May. 

Grotto of the Blessed Virgin Mary

A tataya (a small, traditional Ivatan fishing boat)

Valugan Boulder Beach: Contra Costa Rd., 3900 Basco. 

How to Get There: Located 3 kms. from Basco town proper, this beach is just a short tricycle ride away. You can hire a tricycle to take you around North Batan, which includes Valugan Boulder Beach.

Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel (Basco, Batanes)

Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel

After our tour of the PAGASA Radar Station, we again boarded our van for the short drive to the Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel, making a short stopover to see the Basco idjang.  This was my second visit to both.

Check out “PAGASA Radar Station” and the “Idjangs of Batanes”

 

The author at second lower level tunnel entrance

This abandoned 250-m. long interconnected network of six 8-ft. high and 6-ft. wide bat-filled tunnels running deep in the Tukon Hills, carved by local Ivatans out of volcanic rocks and plastered with cement, served as a shelter and lookout for Japanese soldiers during World War II (1941 to 1945).

Water-logged and muddy interior of first lower level tunnel entrance

Moss-coated, water-logged and muddy inter of second lower level tunnel entrance

It has a series of chambers, bunkers, a water reservoir and five openings; three on the upper level (serving as observation points overlooking Baluarte Bay) and the remaining two are on the lower levels.  A concrete bunker on top of the network served as a machinegun nest.

L-R: our guide Harvey Gutierrez, Jandy and Grace

We were able to see the two openings on the lower level along the road but didn’t bother to enter the tunnels as it muddy and water logged inside both openings.

Breadfruit (Tipuho)

Lining the road are a number of breadfruit trees, arius (Podocarpus costalis) trees and angel,s trumpet (katuvang).  The very popular breadfruit, sometimes called abaya or bread leaves, is used to wrap cooked food with (much like the usual banana leaf), giving it a mild aroma and flavor. 

Angel,s Trumpet (Katuvang)

The endemic arius, an excellent ornamental tree, bears edible berries (comparable to that of the duhat) during the months of July to October.

Arius (Podocarpus costalis)

Dipnaysujuan JapaneseTunnels: Tukon Hills, Sitio Tukon, Brgy. Chanarian, 3900 Basco.  Open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free.

How to Get There: Located on Mt. Iraya, below the idjang of Basco, it is along the route from Radar Tukon weather station to Valuga Boulder Beach and is accessible via the Vajangshin Road.   The quickest route is via tricycle, from Basco town, to Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel. For a more convenient trip, join a Batanes guided tour that includes this tourist spot.  Bring a reliable guide and a lamp. From Basco town, head north toward Contra Costa Rd., continue to La Fuenta St., and turn left to National Rd. Continue straight. Japanese Tunnel is on the left side.

The Idjangs of Batanes

Thousands of years before Spanish colonization, about a thousand pre-Hispanic Ivatans utilized the strategic high ground, living in villages on fortified cliffs and hilltops scattered across today’s Uyugan. These fortified settlements near rocky natural fortresses were called idjangs, derived from the Ivatan word idi or idian, which means “home” or “hometown.” Much of what is known now about idjangs, only initiated in the 1990s, comes from the oral tradition of Ivatans.  These were compiled by native Ivatan Dr. Florentino Hornedo of UST, leading historian on anything relating to Batanes.

These castle-like structures, on elevated rock formations, resemble the gusuku castles of Okinawa (Japan) and some stone-terraced formations in Taiwan.   Pre-Hispanic Ivatans lived in communities of small clans.  During tribal wars for possessions or territory, the clans would climb the idjangs when attacked and throw stones down upon their attackers.

The idjang of Basco

There are 17 of these remnants of stone fortresses on large stone outcrops.  They are located at Brgy. Savidug (Sabtang), Itbayat, Ivana, Mahatao, Brgy. Itbud and Chapidan in Uyugan, Basco and Ivuhos Island (Chuhangin) and Adekey Island off Sabtang.  Artifacts found here include stone tools and implements, earthenware beads, pottery, glass, Chinese ceramics, and human and animal bones. boat-shaped burial markers.

Geologists surmise that the idjang in Basco is molten magma from Mt.  Iraya that cooled off to form a plug for an extinct volcanic crater.  The idjang in Brgy. Itbud (Uyugan) is located at a promontory at the southern end of a beach.

Mt. Iraya

Ancient limestone columns, with holes drilled at one end, are found littered on the idjang slopes.  They may have served as king posts for dwellings or may have once held down cogon dwellings against strong, battering winds.  Some have been recycled as posts for stone houses on Batan Island.  A wall at the idjang’s base (where a creek forks), was made with stones piled on top of each other.  Instead of mortar, they are just held together by pressure from the adjacent stones.

The Chuhangin idjang, in Ivuhos Island (Sabtang), is located on a ledge overlooking the sea and the island’s famed burial grounds.  This idjang is the only one whose sides were built by the ancient Ivatans with stones placed on top of the other without the use of mortar. The Nahini Votox idjang of Itbayat Island has a spectacular view of Dinem and the island’s eastern coast.

The idjang of Brgy. Savidug in Sabtang

The picturesque Savidug idjang, considered to be the most beautiful and perfectly shaped among the idjangs, appears to have been terraced by human hands to assume a castle-like formation. It is distinctly different from all the others in the province because its sides were carved to make entry more difficult.

Here, archaeologists have recovered, from different levels of the site, various earthenware shards, remains of wild boar and deer teeth, glass beads, shell, coral and bone fragments and some 12th century Sung type greenware.

Savidug Idjang: Brgy. Savidug, 3904 Sabtang.

PAGASA Radar Station (Basco, Batanes)

PAGASA Radar Station

After our tour of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel, we again boarded our van for short drive, uphill, to the PAGASA Radar Station, also known as Radar Tukon.  This radar station, located on a hilltop about 300 m. above sea level, is the northernmost weather station of PAGASA (Philippine Atmospheric Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration).

Check out “Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel

Formerly a site of a lighthouse and an abandoned pre-war hilltop U.S. weather station, it monitors typhoons that enter and leave the country’s area of responsibility.  However, its huge satellite disk was ripped off by gale-force winds during September 13, 2016 super typhoon Ferdie (international name: Meranti) even before it was put to effective use.

 

From its top, we had a magnificent and breathtaking 360-degree view of Batan Island, the West Philippine Sea, the boulder-lined cliffs, Mt. Iraya, rolling hills and the magnificent pastoral beauty of labyrinth-like hedgerows (liveng) and fields on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other side.

Mt. Iraya

Hedgerows (liveng)

On a clear day, you can see Dinem Island in the distance and, behind it, the faint silhouette of Itbayat Island,

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Chapel)

Ukuy’s Place, in the foreground, and Fundacion Pacita, in the background

PAGASA Radar Station: Sitio Tukon, Brgy. Chanarian, 3900 Basco.

How to Get There: From Basco it’s a a 2.75-km. (1.5-hour) hike, a tough 30-minute bike ride or an easy tricycle jaunt up to the Radar Station.  It is also a short 5-min. walk to Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Chapel)

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Basco, Batanes)

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Chapel)

After checking in and having a breakfast of fried dibang (flying fish) with pako salad, fried egg and rice at Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel, we were all picked, at 12 noon, by our guide Harvey Gutierrez for our North Batan Tour on board a Toyota van of A.A.B. Travel and Tours.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel”

Harbour Cafe

A short 2.3 km. (5-min.) drive brought us to Harbour Café where we had lunch before starting our tour.  The café has a good view of Basco Port.

After lunch, we again boarded our van for another short, 2.9-km. (7-min.) drive to Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel.  Parking along the road, we climbed a short flight of steps to get to the chapel.

Grace and Jandy

Also known as Tukon (tukon means “mountain” in the Ivatan dialect) Chapel, this project of the late Henedina “Dina” R. Abad (former Batanes Congresswoman) and her husband Florencio “Butch” B. Abad (former Department of Education Secretary) was built to help Tukon’s residents, especially the older ones, avoid the long walk to Basco to attend church services.

Interior of the chapel

Adopting the design of a traditional Ivatan house (stacking and bonding boulders to make a wall), local craftsmen, masons and carpenters built the church and it is the only chapel embodying such design.

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