Suguicay Island (Bulalacao, Oriental Mindoro)

Suguicay Island.  On the left and right side of the island, between mangroves, are white sand beaches

The last island we visited during our memorable island hopping tour was the oblong-shaped Suguicay Island, the most popular island in Bulalacao Bay.  The boat trip from Target to Suguicay Island was rather long and rough.

Cottages, picnic huts and stores lining the white sand beach

Running throughout the whole length of the island, including both at the southern and northern ends (where there is a small village) of the 500 m. long white sand beach, are clumps of healthy mangrove trees. With its different hues of aquamarine, turquoise and deep blue, the waters here are even more colorful than at Aslom Island and have abundant coral and marine life.

A Soguicay welcome

As approached the island, we espied rows of native huts (PhP300) and parked fishing boats along its white sand beach. A number of people were frolicking on the beach while offshore were a few huts on floating bamboo rafts (PhP500) that somehow adds to the character of the whole place.

The white sand beach

Between the white sand beach and the clump of mangrove trees was a narrow body of water that snaked inland. At the end of the island is a sandbar plus another 500 m. long white sand beach.

A floating picnic shed

This was the commercialized island we visited in Bulalacao and, telling from the number of visitors, it’s a go-to beach resort. Aside from the open cottages (some with videoke machines), this family-managed beach resort also has sari-sari stores selling snacks, liquor, bottled water, etc..

A clump of mangroves

A beach volleyball net was also set up in the middle. Here, we had lunch at one of the picnic cottages. Kayaks could also be rented here and unlike Aslom and Target Islands, rooms (PhP300 – 500) for overnight stays are available. Camping (PhP150) is also allowed.

After lunch and some time for exploration, it was now time to make our way back to the mainland.

Boarding our boat for the trip back to the mainland

After a 30-min. boat ride, we docked at a 300 m. long wood and bamboo pier jutting out from the mangrove beach of Bangkal, a sitio in Brgy. San Juan, just to the northeast of the town center of Bulalacao.

Getting ready to dock at the wood and bamboo pier at Sitio Bangkal

The wooden pier is actually the jump-off point for boats going to Suguicay Island, the first of the two northern islands in town.

The author

Soguicay Island: Brgy. San Juan, Bulalacao, Oriental Mindoro.

Provincial Tourism and Cultural Affairs Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, Calapan City 5200.  Tel: (043) 286-7046 and (043) 441-0306. Website: www.ormindoro.gov.ph.

Target Island (Bulalacao, Oriental Mindoro)

One of the white sand beaches of Alibatan Island (Target Island)

From Aslom Island, the privately owned Alibatan Island, frequently referred to as Target Island, was to be our next destination. Since this island was located way out in the open sea, the waves we encountered going there were really rough. Before making landfall on the island, we went around it to admire its scenic coastline.We landed at a beautiful cove on the southern part of the island.

The beautiful cove at the southern part of the island

Located southeast of Bulalacao and approximately 3 kms northeast of Sitio Bacungan, Brgy. Milagrosa, Alibatan was also called Target Island because, in 1946, Americans staying in San Jose, Occidental Mindoro used the island for aerial bombing practice. Exploring the island, you’d see bomb sites and jagged rocks broken into pieces.

This approximately 5-hectare, stingray-shaped island, noted for its white sand beaches, has a mountainous southern part (a seemingly weather-beaten resthouse, reached by concrete steps, is located on the highest point), with big rocks present throughout.

The rundown resthouse at the top of a limestone outcrop

A concrete pathway follows the coastline of the island, looping around its limestone cliffs, and towards an approximately half hectare lake at the center of the island.

The concrete pathway that goes around the island

Said to be a result of the American bombing, the lake teems with mangroves and serves as a breeding and hatching area for seagulls and sea turtles.

The lake at the center of the island

From atop its limestone cliffs, you’d see panoramic views of the lake, the island itself and its beaches. The waters around the area abound with the different species of fish, corals and oysters. Because of its proximity to the channel going to San Jose, Occidental Mindoro, whales can also be sighted here.

Fascinating head-like rock formation

Target Island: Brgy. Milagrosa, Bulalacao, Oriental Mindoro.  Open 6 AM – 6PM. Admission is free. Visitors are not allowed to stay overnight on the island.

Provincial Tourism and Cultural Affairs Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, Calapan City 5200.  Tel: (043) 286-7046 and (043) 441-0306. Website: www.ormindoro.gov.ph.

Aslom Island (Bulalacao, Oriental Mindoro)

Aslom Island

A 45-min. motorized outrigger boat ride, from Bulalacao Fish Port, brough us to the 12-hectare Aslom Island, the first of three (the others are Target Island and Soguicay Island) islands we were to visit in our day-long island hopping tour. While the island is privately owned (said to owned by a member of the Lhuillier family from Cebu), tourists can visit the place for free but staying overnight is not allowed.

Making landfall at the sandbar at the northern end of the island

One of the major destinations of any island hopping activity in Bulalacao, the island’s name is derived from the Cebuano word aslom, meaning “sour,” because of the abundance of tamarind (sampaloc) trees bearing the sour fruit.   Half of the island is planted with coconut trees.  A good place for ships to anchor during storms, the island is located about 1.5 kms. south of Brgy. Milagrosa.

Frolicking at the sandbar

This private island has three white sand beaches with coarse to corally white sand and all interconnected through roads inland.   It would probably take 1-2 hours to explore the island. At the southeastern part of the island is a big cave.

The author on Aslom Island

The first two other beaches stretch about 200 meters and 800 meters respectively.  We made landfall, during high tide, at its beautiful, crescent-shaped white sandbar that stretches for about 500 meters at the northern end of the island.

At the southern end of the sandbar is a nearly finished resthouse and a tennis court. The island has no other establishments or restaurants. Caretakers were the only people around.

The curving sandbar forms a small lagoon 2-3 m. from the shore with a sudden drop off, with very clear waters, clumps of big soft corals and schools of small fishes, making it an ideal area for snorkeling. At the shore, local fishermen catch crablets by digging deep inside the small holes made by the small crabs in the sand. These crablets are cooked in coconut milk.

Aslom Island: Brgy. Milagrosa, Bulalacao, Oriental Mindoro. Visiting hours: 6 AM – 6PM.

Provincial Tourism and Cultural Affairs Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, Calapan City 5200.  Tel: (043) 286-7046 and (043) 441-0306. Website: www.ormindoro.gov.ph.

Island Hopping in Bulalacao (Oriental Mindoro)

Now leaving Bulalacao Fish Port for our island hopping tour. L-R: Mr. Jeshe Kassenberg, Mr. Julius L. Santiago-Aquino, Mr. Ian Soriano (DOT), Mr. Ely Aldea (DOT), Ms. Joyce A. Rocamora, Mr. Sherwin A. Cuasay (Senior Tourism Operations Officer), Ms. Jay de Guzman (DOT-MIMAROPA), Ms. Karen Lacsamana (DOT) and the author

Day Two of our Oriental Mindoro Media Familiarization Tour in Bulalacao was to be spent island hopping.  The town has 11offshore islands –  the 12-hectare Aslom Island, the 206-hectare Buyayao Island, Libago Island,  the 90-hectare Maasim Island, Nagubat Island, Opao Island, Pocanil Island, the 2.5-hectare Sibalat Island, Silad Island, the 160-hectare Tambaron Island and the 5-hectare Target Island (also called Alibatan Island).   Aslom, Soguicay and Target Islands have white sand beaches and we were to explore these three islands.  Though these islands are privately owned, they charge no admission fee to visit.

Ms. Jay with the author at Bulalacao Fish Port

After breakfast at the restaurant of Bulalacao South Drive Grill and Homestay, we boarded our respective vans for the short drive to the town’s fish port, in Kabangkalan, Poblacion, where our motorized outrigger boat awaited us.  The fish port is located just beside the town’s RO-RO port where Roll-On/Roll-Off ships and fast craft bring tourists from the town to Brgy. Caticlan (gateway to Boracay) in Aklan in about two hours.

Dutch-Nepali divemaster Jeshe Kassenberg

At the fish port, we met up with Mr. Jeshe Kassenberg, a Dutch-Nepalese dive master who moved to Bulalacao with his Welsh wife and newly born daughter, from Pattaya (Thailand), to set up a dive shop (which he will call Payapa or “peace” in the local vernacular).   He is bullish about the dive potential of the town and will accompany us to explore some new dive sites.

Fast Cat at nearby Bulalacao Port

Also joining us was Mr. Sherwin William A. Cuasay, Senior Tourism Operations Office from the Provincial Tourism and Cultural Affairs Office based in Calapan City and Ms. Cherry Jean Sanchez from the Provincial Government.  The first island we would visit is Aslom Island, followed by Target Island and finally Soguicay Island where we were to have our lunch.

A number of islands seen off Bulalacao Fish Port

Provincial Tourism and Cultural Affairs Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, Calapan City 5200.  Tel: (043) 286-7046 and (043) 441-0306. Website: www.ormindoro.gov.ph.

Sisiman Lighhouse and San Miguel Peak (Mariveles, Bataan)

Sisiman Beach with rows of cottages along its coast. On the left is the foot of San Miguel Peak while at center is Sisiman Lighthouse

It was now our second day in Bataan and, come late afternoon at The Oriental Bataan, Maricar, Norman, Jandy and I embarked on our first outdoor adventure as we boarded my Toyota Revo for the 20 min. (4.6 km) drive, via the Baseco-Sisiman Highway/Mariveles Diversion Rd., to Sisiman Beach along picturesque Sisiman Bay.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: The Oriental Bataan

Sisiman Lighthouse

Upon arrival, we parked the Revo beside the roofless shell of a building and then walked down for about 20 mins.along a rocky trail that lead to the new functioning fenced lighthouse.

The flight of stairs leading up to the top of the lighthouse

This is a relatively new lighthouse as the old, original lighthouse on the site was destroyed by 194 km/hr. (121 mph) winds of Typhoon Pedring (International name: Nesat) which struck Luzon last September 27, 2011.

Rocky and pebbly Sisiman Beach as seen from the top of the lighthouse

At the southernmost tip, the area is filled with cliffs which provide you an overlooking view of the ocean.

The lens of Sisiman Lighthouse. In the background is the summit of San Miguel Peak

The lighthouse was a picture-perfect spot, with the beautiful, 213 m. (700 ft.) high, San Miguel Peak, a seafront rock mountain  noted for its rock formations, at its rear and the pebbly and rocky Sisiman Beach at its front. The mountain’s profile reminded me of the famous Matterhorn of Switzerland.

Jandy, the author and Norman at the top of the lighthouse.  In the background is the Aboitiz Power Plant

As the lighthouse gate was open, we made our way up the narrow cantilevered concrete steps to the top of the lighthouse and its lens.

San Miguel Peak – I’ll dub this as the “Matterhorn” of the Philippines”

The actual Matterhorn (photo: Wikipedia, www.Camptocamp.org)

Lighting for the lens seems to partially or fully provided by solar panels attached nearby. Here, we had a good view of Sisiman Beach below and San Miguel Peak behind us.

A lone tree precariously clinging to rocks along the side of the mountain

We next made our way along the trail that leads up San Miguel Peak. Along the way we could see, from the distance, the Aboitiz Power Plant.

The Aboitiz Power Plant

With my osteoarthristis, I decided against climbing the peak but I allowed Jandy to join Maricar and Norman, both seasoned mountaineers, as they made the 20 to 30-min. hike, past knee-high cogon (spear) grass,  to the summit.

Norman and Jandy make their way up the mountain

At the summit, they had a more breathtaking view of Bataan, Corregidor Island, La Monja Island and Gordo’s Peak as well as a view of a breathtaking sunset.

View of Corregidor and La Monja Islands halfway up the peak

San Miguel Peak, a favorite for climbing and rappelling, is frequently visited by mountain climbers from Metro Manila and other areas in Luzon.

Beginners start rappelling at a height of 130 m., but veteran climbers rappel from the peak. No admission fee is collected but mountain climbers, for a minimal fee, can make use of local guides and instructors.

Norman and Maricar making their way down the mountain

Along the public beach are many huts available for rent from PHP150 without videoke, to PHP500 to PHP1,000 with free use of videoke.

Jandy, the author, Maricar and Norman with San Miguel Peak in the background

Dusk at Sisiman Beach

Sisiman Beach and Lighthouse: Sisiman-Agwawan Beach Rd, Brgy. Sisiman, Mariveles 2105, Bataan.  Admission is free.

Malcapuya Island (Coron, Palawan)

Malcapuya Island

Part of Bacau Bay Resort-sponsored Island Hopping Tour

After our short visit to Waling-Waling Island, we again boarded our motorized outrigger boat for the short 15-min. trip to Malcapuya Island, located 2 hours away from the town of Coron.  The most beautiful island in Coron, it is also renowned throughout the region as one of the most singularly beautiful islands in the archipelago.

Check out “Resort Review: Bacau Bay Resort Coron

Southern beach

The privately-owned Malcapuya Island was supposed to be the third and last stop of our island-hopping tour but we skipped Banana Island (or Dicalabuan Island) due to time constraints. Although still part of Coron, the sparsely populated Malcapuya is located about 30 kms. south of Coron town and actually lies off the south-western coast of Culion Island in the east.

Past clear waters where we clearly saw corals of different sizes, shapes and hues, our boat slowly glided into and docked along the beige sand beach on the island’s western side.  Boats are only allowed to dock on the western beach because the island’s owner wants to preserve the beauty of the picture-perfect southern beach.

Boat docking site at western beach

Upon disembarking, we slowly made our way past the beach into a clearing and then, over a small hill across a narrow inland portion of the island, to the southern beach.

The path leading to the southern beach

Via Baroma, Sara Grace Fojas and Leica Dacuycuy making their way to the southern beach

The heavenly idyllic southern beach, suitable for swimming, sunbathing, or even snorkeling, consists of a long stretch of powdery fine, white sand with shallow waters of varying shades of aquamarine, turquoise and emerald. A nice, but shorter, stretch of white sand beach, along the island’s northern shores, is a long walk from the southern beach.

White party tents, under coconut trees, along the southern beach

There’s a long line of coconut palm trees that provide a good shade for visitors. Underneath the coconut palms are a few bamboo and thatch huts and white canvas party tents with tables and chairs for  lunch and snack breaks.  They also provide more shade and a place to store one’s personal effects.  Hammocks are also available.

Nipa and bamboo picnic huts

There’s a decent public restroom where you can also take a bath, but don’t expect much here. Mobile phone signal is not that consistent on the island. Refreshing coconut juice and meat is sold by the island’s caretakers.

Karst limestone formations

We chose a picnic hut and, while our food was being laid out, I decided to explore the quite rocky but more quiet western portion of the beach which offers a great picturesque view. Less frequented by tourists, it contains tall karst or limestone rock formations that provided excellent photo opportunities for me.

Though perfect for swimming, there is a growth of sea grass several meters from the shore (bad news for swimmers looking for a nice, perfectly clean beach).  Not 100 meters from the shore, beyond the sea grass,  is an extensive bed of corals.

A good snorkeling spot, it is home to a wide variety of colorful marine life including giant clams and a few species of clownfish. Beyond the corals, is a sudden drop of the sea floor as evidenced by the deep blue color of the water.

Even if this day was blisteringly hot, a beach this beautiful deserves a long walk from end to end. As lunch was still being prepared on my return to the hut, I walked to the eastern end of the beach. At the left most end of the beach is a cliff accessed by a stair carved on the slope.

A seal-like rock formation

On top of the cliff is a view point with magnificent and panoramic views of the whole southern beach, the rich growth of corals surrounding the island, a portion of the island’s eastern shores and distant views of Banana Island and Bulog Dos/Malaroyroy Peninsula.

Check out “Waling-Waling Island (Bulog Uno)

View of the eastern shores of the island from the top of the cliff

 

Another view of the southern beach from the top of the cliff

For overnight accommodation, there’s a simple enclosed thatched hut by the beach (PhP750/person) provided with an electric fan and a mattress on the floor plus outlets where you can charge phones and camera batteries. Two restrooms, with open air showers, are located a few meters away from the huts.

A villa that could be rented

Though the island does not have electricity, there is a generator which provides light and electricity at night.  There’s also a simple villa, on an elevated portion a few meters from the shoreline, which can also be rented.  It has a single room, with basic but comfortable beds, plus a decent restroom.

Among all the beaches I have visited so far, Malcapuya’s white and powdery sand, forested knolls and postcard-perfect, crystal clear blue waters rivals the famous Boracay Island. Malcapuya’s long stretch of  beaches almost spans the entire length of the island, equivalent to about two boat stations of Boracay.

Bulog Uno (Waling-Waling) Island and Bulog Dos Island with the sandbar in between the two

Because of its distance from Coron, its many deserted and protected beaches has remained relatively underdeveloped like those in Banana and Bulalacao Islands, which only adds to its charm.

The author goes exploring ….

But not for long.  The upscale Two Seasons resort has already opened at Malaroyroy Peninsula in Bulalacao.  Development, specifically by the same folks who developed the Boracay Regency Hotel, is soon underway to turn Malcapuya Island into a private resort, eventually becoming Coron Regency Resort.

Our rented picnic hut.  L-R- Ms. Armina O. Mangune, Mr. Pete Dacuycuy, Ms. Leica Dacuycuy, Mr. Feliciano Rodriguez III, the author, Ms. Via Baroma and Ms. Sara Grace Fojas

Business and development may mean good news for the local economy of Coron but it means that fewer people would get to bear witness to the beauty of this island. So, it is uncertain how long it will remain open to the public. Still, I am glad to have visited Malcapuya before it’s closed off from the public.

Grilled fish

Boodle fight

Malcapuya Island: Coron, Palawan.Entrance fee: PhP200 per person.

How to Get There: Those who want to visit Malcapuya usually go on a tour package that includes the 2 other islands of the cluster, namely Bulog Dos and Banana Islands. The boat ride to this island can be a little rough because of the strong waves but it’s definitely worth it. One can also charter a boat (its advantage being you get to choose the islands you want to visit) to get there. If there are 10-15 people in your group (the normal complement of boats traversing this route),you can keep the cost down.  Otherwise, it will be a bit more expensive.

Bacau Bay Resort Coron: Governor’s Drive, Sitio Jolo, Poblacion 5, Coron 5316, Palawan.  Mobile numbers: (0995) 760-3444 and (0995) 760-3445. E-mail: info@bacaubaycoron.com.   Website: www.bacaubayresortcoron.com.

Manila Sales & Marketing Office: Anya Hospitality Corporation, 5/F Pilgrim Building, 111 Aguirre St., Legazpi Village, Makati City 1229, Metro Manila.  Tel: +63-553 8888 loc. 34-36.  Fax: +632 874-0426.  E-mail: reservations@bacaubaycoron.com.  Website:www.anyahospitalitycorp.com.

Tai O Fishing Village (Lantau Island, Hong Kong)

Entrance to Tai O Fishing Village

From the Ngong Ping Village, we walked towards the bus terminal and boarded Bus 21 which leaves about every hour or so for Tai O (Chinese: 大澳) Fishing Village, a short 15-min. (6.7- km). drive via the Lantau Trail Section 4 and Tai O Rd.

Check out “Ngong Ping Village

This quaint and picturesque fishing town is partly located on an island of the same name on the western side of Lantau Island in Hong Kong. Despite damage by a large fire in July 2000, Tai O is still a tourist spot for both foreigners and residents of other parts of Hong Kong.

The village’s name, meaning “large inlet,” refers to the outlet for Tai O Creek and Tai O River which merges as it moves through Tai O. On the southwest part of Lantau Island, the Tai O River splits to the north (as Tai O Creek) and west.  At this fork lies the island referred to as Tai O.

The village is located mostly on the banks of the Tai O River. Two pedestrian bridges cross the river on its northern and western forks. The western and northern parts of the island, facing the South China Sea, are uninhabited.

For a short time, Tai O was once occupied by Portuguese during the Battle of Tamao (a naval battle, in 1521, where the Ming imperial navy defeated a Portuguese fleet led by Diogo Calvo).

Souvenir items

In 1729, a fort was built at nearby Fan Lau  to protect shipping on the Pearl River. When the British came to Hong Kong, Tai O was then known as a village of the Tanka, a community of fisher folk who’ve, for generations, built their houses on stilts above the tidal flats of Lantau Island.

Dried squid

During and after the Chinese Civil War, Tai O became a primary entry point for illegal immigration for those (mostly Cantonese) escaping from the People’s Republic of China, some of whom stayed in Tai O.  Tai O also attracted people from other Hong Kong ethnic groups, including Hoklo (Hokkien) and Hakka.

Dried fish

Tai O used to be a very important trading and fishing port, but this is a thing of the past. Currently, while many residents still continue to fish, the fishing lifestyle in Tai O is dying out as it barely provides a subsistence income. Though there is a public school on the island, most of its young people move away when they come of age.  Today, tourism seems to be Tai O’s drawcard with the Stilt Village it’s biggest attraction.

The harbor

Upon arrival at the bus terminus, we walked towards the lively, traditional seafood market.  A feast for the eyes (but, perhaps, not the nose), we strolled through its stalls and alleys, checking out the live seafood tanks and the vast array of dried traditional salted fishshrimp paste, XO sauce, salted egg yolk, laogong bin (husband cake), vegetables (some of which we did not recognize), knick knacks and souvenirs (pearl jewelry) being sold at storefronts.

Boarding our kaido

At the booth of Tai O Boat Excursion Limited, we boarded one its kaidos (small ferry boats that accommodates around 10-12 people) that would take us on an approximately 20-min. tour (which we booked beforehand online) along the river, for a close up view, of activity surrounding the harbor and the daily life in the stilt houses and, then, for a short jaunt into the sea.

Stilt houses along the river

Our ride first took us for a look at the stilt houses (pang uks) right over the waterway. In spite of the houses’ dilapidated look, the village is still a quite scenic and enchanting photographer’s paradise.

The unusual but traditional stilt houses, with its pretty setting on the coast framed by the mountains, is predominant of the old Southern Chinese fishing villages and one of the few remaining places where you can still see them in Hong Kong.

Sun Ki Bridge

All interconnected, they form a tightly knit community that literally lives on the water. There are also cafes and restaurant alongside the river plus some old house boats.

Tai Chung Bridge

After riding around the stilt village, our boat then headed out to the harbor and open sea. Before heading out to sea, we passed underneath the Tai Chung Bridge, a manually operated steel pedestrian drawbridge spanning the narrow creek dividing the town which replaced, in October 1996, a  rope-drawn “ferry,” tended by local Tanka women for over 85 years, which used to be quite popular with visitors. The Sun Ki Bridge, completed in 1979, also connects the village to the mainland.

A pair of fishing boats

As we cruised along the harbor, we saw fishermen coming and going and cleaning and putting away catch and gear, all traces of what this active fishing port used to be. Out at sea, we saw some some beautiful cliffs and rock formations along the coastline of Lantau Island.

The coastline of Lantau Island

Many tourists also come to Tai O to see the sunset and, specifically, to take boat trips to see rare, endangered Chinese white dolphins (also known as “Pink Dolphins”) but it was too early for the former and we didn’t see any of the latter. From afar, we espied the Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge (HZMB), the cross-border mega bridge linking Lantau with Macau and Zhuhai which, incidentally, official opened on that day.

Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge (HZMB)

Though Tai O is known as the “Venice of Hong Kong” or “Venice of the Orient,” don’t expect too much of a comparison as its stilt house architecture is a far cry from that of the famous and romantic Italian city.

The author

With Lantau Island becoming much more accessible, through new transportation options, and the new influx of tourists to the Big Buddha and Ngong Ping area, things in Tai O are changing fast.  Though still very much a quaint fishing village, sooner or later Tai O cannot escape the inevitable phase of development that is bound to come. Still, Tai O was definitely worth the trip from Hong Kong.

How to Get There:

  • From Central, take the ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then Bus No. 1 to Tai O bus terminus. The bus journey takes approximately 50 minutes.
  • From Kowloon, the easiest way is to get there is taking the MTR to Tung Chung Station, then Bus No. 11 to Tai O. From Tung Chung Station Exit B, take Ngong Ping Cable Car to Ngong Ping Village (approximately 25 minutes) then take Bus No. 21 (HK$6.6 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK14 on Sundays and public holidays) to Tai O terminus (approximately 20 minutes). Sometimes Bus No. 21 fills up quick so, instead of waiting for the next one, consider a taxi (the taxi stands are right next to the bus stop). The taxi ride costs about HK50.At the terminus, walk for around five minutes to the steel drawbridge and then take a stroll along the waterfront.
  • By New Lantau Bus, Tai O can be reached from Mui Wo(Bus No. 1, HK$12 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK20 on Sundays and public holidays), Tung Chung (Bus No. 11, HK$12 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK120 on Sundays and public holidays) and Ngong Ping (Bus No. 21).
  • There are ferry piers on Tai O, close to Tai O bus terminus. It operates daily as the following routes connecting Tai O with Tuen Mun(Tuen Mun Ferry Pier, service by Fortune Ferry), Tung Chung (Tung Chung New Development Ferry Pier, service by Fortune Ferry) and Sha Lo Wan (operated by Fortune Ferry).

Tai O Fishing Village: Lantau Island, Hong Kong. Boat rides are offered by the locals and you will have no trouble getting on one.  As soon as you get off the bus or as you walk around the market, you will find somebody peddling their services. The boats depart from many points, including the bridge and the main marina, but they all cover the same main spots.  Prices for the boat rides are negotiable.  You are expected to pay about HK20 per adult (half for children) but, the bigger your group, the more leverage you will have.

Return to Wawa Gorge (Rodriguez, Rizal)

Wawa Gorge

The day after my grandson Kyle’s 6th birthday, I together with the rest of my family joined employees of E. Ganzon Inc. in distributing relief goods to residents of Sitio Wawa in Rodriguez (formerly Montalban, it was renamed after Eulogio “Amang” Rodriguez Sr., Montalban’s first mayor and Senate president, in 1982) in Rizal. Last August 11-13, the area was hit by flash flooding that also destroyed the bridge that connects Sitio Wawa with Sitio Sto. Niño.

Sitio Wawa

This wasn’t my first visit to this area.  The first time I was in Wawa was way back in 2004 when I was a guest in a demonstration tour, for teacher representatives from 9 different schools, hosted by Lakbay Kalikasan. At Wawa Gorge, we engaged in the adrenaline-pumping sport of rappelling at the gorge’s metal footbridge.

Check out “Rapelling at Wawa Gorge

Sitio Wawa lies is in between the 426 m. high Mt. Pamitinan and 424 m. high Mt. Binacayan.  Its abandoned reservoir is visited mostly by hikers as the jump-off point for the trek to either beginner-friendly mountain, two of three mountains in the well-loved trilogy hike (the other is 517 m. high Mt. Hapunang Banoi). Guide fee is Php500 per group.

Mt. Pamitinan

The two mountains form a scenic view that appears like a portal to the sky, hence the name wawa, the Dumagat term for “entrance.” Sitio Wawa is a habitat of the Remontado Dumagat, mixed-blood offspring of lowlanders, who fled the Spanish colonizers, and of Negritos, the original setters in the area.

Mt. Binacayan

Legend has it that a giant of extraordinary strength named Bernardo Carpio (our version of Hercules or Atlas) who, in olden times, was trapped by an enkanto (enchanted creature) between Mt. Pamitinan and Mt. Binacayan. He caused earthquakes, landslides and flooding in nearby villages every time he struggles to free himself from his chains or keep the boulders from crushing him or from colliding.

Parking lot for visitors

José Rizal was said to have made a pilgrimage to Montalban to pay homage to Bernardo Carpio, a versatile symbol of freedom. In recent times, Lavrente “Lav” Diaz has used the legend as organic symbol in his 2016 historical fantasy dram film Hele sa Hiwagang Hapis (“A Lullaby to the Sorrowful Mystery”). The riverbed is said to have a boulder with a hollow that forms what look like a gigantic footprint, attributed by locals to Bernardo Carpio.

The E. Ganzon, Inc. group. The author is at left

Historically, the site was used as a hide out by the revolutionary leader Andres Bonifacio who made one of Pamitinan’s caves as the Katipunan’s secret headquarters.  Here, Bonifacio and eight of his men entered the cave on Palm Sunday and came out on Good Friday. Here, they declared independence from Spain on April 12, 1895, over a year before the Revolution started.

The children of Sitio Wawa

Some 500 meters of narrow passage away from the mouth of Pamitinan Cave is the bulwagan (“hall”), a cavern over 50 ft. high and about 50 ft. in radius.  Inscribed on the cavern wall, in what looks like charcoal (possibly soot from a torch), are the words Viva la Independencia.  The Pamitinan pilgrimage is held here in April.

A currently closed hanging bridge

In 1943, the cave was turned into a Japanese armory. Mary Japanese died here from American fire. In 1977, a concrete marker commemorating them was fixed on the cliff wall over the cave’s mouth, above which is a metal plate, inscribed with Japanese characters with English translation, that reads: “Give them eternal rest, O Lord, and let them share Your glory.” In 1985, the cave was declared a National Geological Monument.

The narrow paved trail. along a ridge, leading to Wawa Dam

It is closed for rehabilitation until further notice.  In 1996, the area was declared a Protected Landscape managed by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) and the Department of Tourism.

A waterfall emanating from a cave

After lunch at one of the area’s eateries, we decided to make the 500-m. trek, along a ridge, to Wawa Dam, the prominent landmark of Sitio Wawa. Along the narrow, paved trail are stores selling organic vegetables (eggplant, squash, gabi, takway, puso ng saging, pandan leaves, etc.), river shrimps, crabs, eels, carp, charcoal, assorted fruits (bananas, papaya,) etc., snacks and beverages to tourists.

The author at the steel footbridge near the dam

On Tuesdays and Fridays, foot traffic is heavy on the trail, with young men carrying sacks of fruits and vegetables.  After crossing a metal footbridge, we reached the slightly arched dam.  Coupled with the beautiful landscape of 80-160 feet high white rock walls, limestone crags and marble boulders, the dam was perfect for photography.

Wawa Dam

Wawa Dam, also known as Montalban Dam, is an 85 m. 9279 ft.) long  and 12 m. (40 ft.) high gravity dam constructed over the Marikina River. The slightly arched dam is situated in the 360-m. (1,180 ft.) high Montalban Gorge or Wawa Gorge, a water gap in the Sierra Madre Mountains, east of Manila.

Kyle, Grace and Jandy with the dam in the background

The waters of the Upper Marikina River basin, its headwater said to be in Quezon province, runs through the gorge and descends to the lowlands of the neighboring town of San Mateo and Marikina Valley. During summer, cottages are built at the foot of the dam but, as it was the rainy season, they remove the cottages because of the heavy impact of water.

The old, roofless American-era watchtower flanking the dam

The dam was built in 1904, during the American colonial era, started operating in 1909 to provide the water needs for Manila. It used to be the only source of water for the greater Manila area but it was closed in 1962 due to deterioration and lack of water supply and abandoned when it was replaced by the La Mesa-Ipo-Angat watershed system.

The sparsity of its water was most likely due to the logging and quarrying in the mountains. However, due to insufficiency of water supply for Metro Manila, there is now a strong clamor to reuse the dam. Wawa Dam is also pictured in their official seal of the local government of Rodriguez.

The reservoir behind the dam

For those who are not fans of mountain hiking, Wawa Dam’s has picnic spots. If you don’t want to bring your own food and beverages, sari-sari stores, food stalls and a wet market are available in the place. You can rent a bamboo cottage (Php150-500) and toilets are Php10 per use (bring your own toiletries or buy them at the sari-sari stores).

The roofless interior of the old watchtower

Wawa Dam: M. H. Del Pilar Street, Sitio Wawa, Brgy. San Rafael, Rodriguez, RizalPhilippines.

How to Get There:

By Car: Despite the usual traffic, the fastest route to Wawa is via Commonwealth Ave., then take Payatas Road going to Rodriguez Highway until you reach M.H Del Pilar Street. Inside Wawa Village, there’s a parking space where the locals look after your car for any amount. Travel time is around 1.5 to 2hrs.

By Public Transportation: In front of Jollibee, Farmers, Cubao, Quezon City, there’s a UV Express Terminal where you can take the van going to Rodriguez (fare: Php50 per head).  Drop-off at Montalban Terminal.  Here, you can ride a tricycle going to Wawa Village (fare: Php20 per head). From  SM North/Trinoma, you can also ride a UV Express van (fare: Php50) going to Eastwood Montalban and drop off at Eastwood Ministop. Then, ride a jeep going to Wawa (fare: Php8). From the parking lot, you have to walk for 5-10 minutes. Alternatively, from Cubao/SM North/Trinoma, you can ride a bus or jeepney going to Litex and, from there, ride a jeepney going to Montalban Town Center and another jeepney to Wawa. This is much cheaper but a bit of a hassle.

Waling-Waling Island (Coron, Palawan)

The sandbar of Waling-Waling Island

Part of Bacau Bay Resort-sponsored Island Hopping Tour

After breakfast at Bacau Bay Resort’s Amihan Restaurant, we proceeded to the resort’s private port where our motorized outrigger boat for our island hopping tour awaited us.  We were scheduled to visit three islands (Waling-Waling Island, Banana Island and Malcapuya Island) as well as Kayangan Lake. Getting to Waling-Waling Island (also called Bulog Uno), the first island in our tour, entailed a long 1.5-hour trip.

Check out “Malcapuya Island

Bulog Uno Island (Waling-Waling)

Even though the sun was at its peak during our boat trip, the seas were very rough and those seated at front were drenched by the huge waves. Some of the ladies even became seasick.

Check out “Resort Review: Bacau Bay Resort Coron

An open-air cabana

Nearing the end of our trip, a couple of very small, rocky islands (Bulog Uno and Dos) soon came into view. Our boat soon made landfall at Waling-Waling Island (Bulog Uno) and, upon alighting, some of us made our way up a path up a small hill.

The island has a number of open-air cabanas (said to have been used by celebrities), clean bathrooms, an island bar as well as a big house at the top of the hill where one can stay overnight.

Pathway leading up to the top

A separate path led us to a cool and windy viewpoint where we had a gorgeous view of both sides of the island, the powdery white sand beach below, the two-toned clear and azure waters, the surrounding islands and the neighboring, uber-hyped and expensive Two Seasons Resort on Bulog Dos which is connected to Waling-Waling by a very nice and long sandbar (currently submerged during our visit as it was high tide).

The island bar

Overall, this lovely, private island, perfect for honeymooners, is clean, with beautiful scenery. Bring comfortable water shoes or slippers as the long uphill walk up the path to small hill in the middle of the island is lined with small coral stones.

View of offshore islands from the viewpoint

The sand in the beach is very fine and good for swimming, taking pictures or just lazing under the sun. There are some nice fish shoals around and the beach goes slowly down into the water. The water here is warm and the current is calm.

L-R: the author, Mr, Feliciano Rodriguez III, Ms. Sara Grace Fojas, Ms. Leica Dacuycuy and Ms. Via Marie Claire Baroma

While the corals here were not the best in Coron, it was still good enough. About 15-20 feet from the beach is some excellent snorkeling with starfish, angel fish, barracudas, snapper, blue tang, triggerfish, trunkfish, Moorish idols and parrotfish. We were lucky to have been able to stop here as construction of another resort on the island was slated to start.

Frolicking on the sandbar

 

Waling-Waling Island: Coron, Palawan.  Admission: PhP150 per adult.  Children are free of charge.

Bacau Bay Resort Coron: Governor’s Drive, Sitio Jolo, Poblacion 5, Coron 5316, Palawan.  Mobile numbers: (0995) 760-3444 and (0995) 760-3445. E-mail: info@bacaubaycoron.com.   Website: www.bacaubayresortcoron.com.

Manila Sales & Marketing Office: Anya Hospitality Corporation, 5/F Pilgrim Building, 111 Aguirre St., Legazpi Village, Makati City 1229, Metro Manila.  Tel: +63-553 8888 loc. 34-36.  Fax: +632 874-0426.  E-mail: reservations@bacaubaycoron.com.  Website:www.anyahospitalitycorp.com.

Virgin Island (Panglao, Bohol)

Virgin Island

Part of the Panglao Bluewater Resort-sponsored CountrysideTour

The next day, after a buffet breakfast at the resort’s Aplaya Restaurant, we boarded a motorized outrigger boat just off the beach from the resort for our half-day, two island (Virgin Island and Balicasag Island) hopping tour.

Making landfall

A 15-20 minute boat ride brought us to Virgin Island, a 1-hectare (during low tide) stretch of white sandbar with small patches of mangroves, grass and coconut trees and surrounded by clear, shallow (the water is only up to your shins) waters and sea grass.  Walking to its far end, you will find lots and lots of red and blue starfish.

The author at Virgin Island.  Behind are makeshift stalls

Virgin Island turned out to be a “tourist trap” as a number of makeshift stalls have been set up there, selling pricey sea food such as fresh, edible abalone, soft and crunchy sea cucumber, tuna and sea urchins (swaki) as well as buko (coconut) drinks, banana-Q, fish ball, squid ball and snacks. Jewelry hawkers, who follow you around (they can’t seem to take “no” for an answer), also sell pearls (in its natural state or mounted as earrings, bracelets or necklaces).

The crystal-clear, shallow waters

Our tour boat only allowed us 15-20 minutes of stay before we headed to our next destination. It is best to go here early in the morning, tide permitting, as it can be a little too hot when the sun is already shining so bright.  Bring sunblock lotion.

An isolated patch of mangroves …….

There are no nipa huts or umbrella shades on the island. The island is not really a snorkeling spot of note. The sea grass beds only have a few shoals of very small fish but off the beds are loads of jack fish.

A piece of driftwood

Across the island is Isola di Francesco (“Island of St. Francis”) on Pungtud (or Pontod) Island. Owned by Mr. Ramon Rodriguez, a devotee of Italian Capuchin monk St. Pio (Francesco Forgione) of Pietrelcina, it has a chapel, a visitor’s center, a mini museum (filled with photos of the Francescan friars), a few restrooms, water tanks, guest houses and several religious sculptures of angels, cherubs, and the Holy Family. It is not often included in the island hopping packages.

Isola de Francesco

There’s nothing much you can do here except for a short photo ops and taking selfies. They should change the name of this Island. Not a virgin at all.  Like many beautiful spots on the Earth, this island has been ruined for commercial reasons but, minus the flocks of tourists, parked boats and the makeshift stalls, the island could be a great place to just sit and relax and enjoy the solitude.

A solitary mangrove……..

Island Hopping Rates (boat rental only): PhP2,300 (1-4 pax) and PhP2,750 (5-10 pax).

Bohol Tourism Office: Governor’s Mansion Compound, C.P.G. Ave. North, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol.  Tel: +63 38 501-9186.  E-mail: inquire@boholtourismph.com.

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd., Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.  Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.