Whale Shark Interaction (Oslob, Cebu)

After an early breakfast at Sumilon Bluewater Island Resort, we were in for whole morning of resort-sponsored tours over at Oslob – whale shark (butanding) interaction, Tumalog Falls and the Municipal Heritage Park.  At the resort wharf, we again boarded the Jeffrey (the same boat that brought us in) that would take us to Brgy. Tan-awan in the mainland ((10 kms. away from the center of the town), where whale sharks converge.  The boat trip took just 10 mins. and, near the shore, we transferred to a small outrigger boat that brought us to shore.

The gentle but majestic whale shark (photo: Liana Smith-Bautista)

The gentle but majestic whale shark (photo: Liana Smith-Bautista)

Before we could start our butanding interaction, we first had to go first to the briefing area where we registered ourselves and attended a short but straightforward 15-min. orientation on the do’s and dont’s. You can swim with the whale sharks but should be 4 m. away from it and not ride them (there is a fine of PhP2,000 or you can go to jail) and for those who would like to swim with it, they should wash off their sun block lotion as these have chemicals are harmful to the whale sharks. If you worry about getting burned in the sun while doing the activity, better wear rashguard. Pictures can be taken underwater by one of the divers assisting the activity but no flash photography is allowed as whale sharks are sensitive to light.

The briefing area

The briefing area

After this short briefing, we all returned to our boat and, just about 200 m. from the shore, the butandings were already visible.  We all donned our snorkel and masks and jumped into the water. Most of the time, the whale sharks just hang around in the water, tilting upwards at 45 degrees, with their mouths wide open as men on boats throw krill down their throats.

Our short orientation

Our short orientation

Facts about the whale shark

Facts about the whale shark

It was a bit scary at first, considering how big they were and how close they were to us, but we had nothing to fear.  A number of butanding came near me and one actually brushed under me. Any fear is eventually replaced with amazement after seeing how gentle these majestic creatures were.

The whole gang with a whale shark

The whole gang with a whale shark (photo: Ma. Joy C. Felizardo)

It was an unforgettable experience and words are not enough to describe how wonderful (and frightening for some) it is. The exhilarating and unique experience of having one of these truly amazing, gentle juvenile giants not only swim close by, but actually brush past me is one I’ll take with me to my grave.

The author's (upper right) close encounter with a whale shark (photo: Ma. Joy C. Felizardo)

The author’s (upper right) close encounter with a whale shark (photo: Ma. Joy C. Felizardo)

Oslobanons are happy and grateful to the whale sharks as they have given them an unexpected and better income. However, the idea of feeding the whale sharks on a daily basis can be disruptive for the sharks’ nature of searching for their food. Added to that, as too many people are around at any given time, you also have to be constantly on your guard as you have to dodge boats that can run over you. Their guidelines are also good in theory and are monitored by a marine biologist but they are almost impossible to police. The 4 m. required distance between man and shark is also impossible to keep as there are so many swimmers and sharks. For me, the jury is out on whether this is sustainable.

Fisherman feeding a whale shark

Fisherman feeding a whale shark

Oslob Whale Shark Watching: Brgy. Tan-awan, Oslob 6025, Cebu.  Mobile number (0925) 897-8687.  Open daily, 6:30 AM to 12 noon.

Rates: PhP500/30 mins. interaction (whale shark watching + snorkeling), PhP300 if you just want to stay in the boat (whale shark watching). An underwater camera can rent for PhP500 and the boatman can be your photographer as well. If you don’t have a memory card, they charge another PhP50 (the pictures were then transferred to our own memory card).

Abatan River Firefly Watching Tour (Cortes, Bohol)

Part of Panglao Bluewater Resort Countryside Tour

After picking out the ingredients for our dinner at Manga Public Market and delivering it to Lic Lic Fastfood, we returned to our airconditioned coach for the short 15-min./10-km. drive to the Abatan River Visitor Center in Cortes for the Abatan River Firefly Watching Tour. The winding,  beautiful and 20 km. long Abatan River, which opens at the Cortes nipa swamp, the most extensive nipa swamp in Bohol, snakes through the towns of Antequera, Maribojoc, Cortes up to Balilihan.

Abatan River Visitor Center

Abatan River Visitor Center

When we entered the lobby area, a girl wearing what seemed like a tribal costume and holding a clay pot with white incense smoke rising from it, danced around us.  This was part of a native ritual called palina which makes sure that we were protected from bad spirits. This theatrical ritual rite of passage to the Abatan River was said to have been officiated by the legendary warrior Princess Wadji, the guardian of the Abatan River.  Before the 7:30 PM start of the tour, we were offered fresh buko juice as welcome drinks.

The palina ritual

The palina ritual

We were then ushered to our 10-pax, motorized banding, the boat we will use for the firefly tour.  During the relaxing cruise along the river (with our life vests on), our local guide lectured us on the pagatpat (mangroves) in the area, the home of the fireflies, and the importance of protecting them. If a pagatpat was cut or killed, the fireflies would transfer to another area and, most likely, never come back.  This is exactly what happened when the earthquake struck Bohol on October 15, 2013.  The tectonic uplift that resulted caused some of the mangroves to die. Luckily, a number still remain along the riverbank.

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Around 10 mins. into our tour, we all spotted our first group of fireflies lighting up a pagatpat tree, like Christmas trees.  These fireflies, winged beetles commonly called  lightning bugs (Photuris lucicrescens), moved like blinking and synchronized waves in the pitch black darkness of the night, a memorable encounter that was magical and surreal. However, we were prohibited from going near the trees so as not to disturb the fireflies in their natural habitat.

Our 10-pax banding

Our 10-pax banding

We were allowed to take pictures but, as flashes were discouraged, we failed to capture, on camera, nature’s light show that we witnessed.  For those who loved taking pictures like me, this was the frustrating part of this tour. Anyway, even if used our camera flash, we still won’t see them in the picture as our camera’s flash is stronger than the light from the fireflies. Anyway, photos here can’t compare with the beauty of what we saw.  Only Julia, with her sophisticated camera equipment, was able to capture them, adjusting her camera to adapt to the amount of light in the pitch black environment.

Fireflies lighting up the mangroves like Christmas trees (photo - Julia Wimmerlin)

Fireflies lighting up the mangroves like Christmas trees (photo – Julia Wimmerlin)

Continuing down the twists and bends of the river, our boatman constantly pointed his flashlight towards the mangroves, egging the tiny lightning bugs to respond in kind.  Half-way into our boat tour, the small cluster of blinking lights we first saw turned into large groups of fireflies swarming in and around the mangroves.   Coupled with the gentle river breeze, we hardly felt the time pass us by during our hour-long but very relaxing tour as we were amazed and “enlightened” by watching these countless clusters of constantly moving fireflies. It was a breathtaking and perfect end to an already eventful day. Rates (tour, entrance fee, life jacket and boat rental): 1-10 guests (PhP500/pax) and 11-20 guests (PhP400/pax).

Alighting after our firefly tour

Alighting after our firefly tour

The center also offers fireflies kayaking along the Abatan River.  Rates: double kayak (PhP300 plus PhP50 per hour for every excess hour), single kayak (PhP200 plus PhP50 per hour for every excess hour), tour guide (PhP200 plus PhP50 per hour for every excess hour).

River kayaks available for rent

River kayaks available for rent

Abatan River Visitor Center: National Highway, Brgy. Salvador, Cortes, Bohol.  Tel: (038) 510-8255.  Mobile numbers: (0920) 906-7446, (0908) 873-8304  and (0915) 769-9515. Email: manager@riverlife.ph.  Website: www.riverlife.ph. Entrance Fee: PhP50. 

How to Get There: Located 10 kms. (a 10-15-min. drive) from Tagbilaran City seaport or airport and 45 kms. (a 30-40-min. drive) from Tubigon seaport, public utility vehicles (buses, jeepneys and vans) that regularly ply the Tagbilaran City-Tubigon route pass by Abatan River Visitor Center. You can also hire a taxi or van to get there.

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd, Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.
Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.

Pamilacan Island (Baclayon, Bohol)

Pamilacan Island

Pamilacan Island

It was now Day 2 of our 3-day media familiarization tour of Bohol.  After a very early breakfast at Panglao Bluewater Resort, we were slated to do some dolphin watching off Pamilacan Island, followed by lunch at Balicasag Island.  The tide was still low and our large motorized outrigger boat was anchored some distance off.  To get on board her, we took turns riding a tandem kayak until all were on board.  The sun was already up in the sky when we got underway.

On our way

On our way

The island’s name was derived from the word meaning “nesting place of manta rays.”  However, it has also been interpreted to to have been derived from the word pamilac, a harpoon (large hooked implement) used to capture manta rays, dolphins, whale sharks and Bryde’s whales. Under the jurisdiction of the municipality of Baclayon, it is situated 14 kms. (8.7 mi) south of the Bohol mainland.

Our spotter scanning the horizon for dolphins or whales

Our spotter scanning the horizon for dolphins or whales

The waters around the island are home to at least 11 species of dolphins and whales, including the playful Spinner Dolphins, Bryde’s whales and the gigantic Sperm Whale. Blue Whales are sometimes seen in the early months of the year. The whale watching season begins in March until the onset of the rainy season in June or July.

Soon to make landfall

Soon to make landfall

The 15 to 20 m. long boat we rode on was possibly a former canter, a boat formerly used for whale hunting.  These have been refitted with seats and roofing for a comfortable ride for 7 to 10 passengers who want to go whale or dolphin watching.  A skilled, elderly spotter, who is also an excellent guide, soon took his place at our boat’s bow, scanning the horizon for any whales or dolphins. Resident dolphins and small whales can be found all year round but sightings are dependent on weather and sea conditions.  Just like my first try in 2003, we were unlucky to find any of them.

The island's immaculately white sand beach

Footprints along the island’s immaculately white sand beach

We made landfall at the island’s beautiful white sand beach located on its northwest side.  Upon landing, we were welcomed by members of the island’s small and closely knit fishing community which has around 200 families living in 3 sitios – one facing Baclayon, another amid an island and a third on the southern coast.  Their main livelihoods now concentrate on dolphin and whale watching tours and subsistence fishing. In the past, it also included whale, dolphin and manta ray hunting. However, with the strict enforcement of marine life preservation laws in the country, this practice was stopped. Their houses, though, are still adorned with jaws and bones of these marine mammals.

The island's barangay

The island’s barangay

When we arrived, a table (with red tablecloth) and chairs were set up under a shady palm tree, beside some picnic sheds.  A merienda of sliced camote (sweet potatoes), either steamed, caramelized or fried, plus rice cakes and corn coffee were prepared for us. The latter looked and tasted like your good old caffeinated coffee but is said to be healthier.

A merienda of camote, rice cake and corn coffee

A merienda of camote, rice cake and corn coffee

After this filling repast, I together with Czarina, Euden, Joy, Kathleen and Lara went on a snorkeling tour on 3 small boats, each with a local boatman who paddled for us.  Czarina joined me on one boat.  The island’s wide flat reef, now a marine sanctuary, offers good snorkelling and diving (it has some great dive sites such as Dakit-Dakit).

Dining al fresco along the beach

Dining al fresco along the beach

After some great snorkeling over coral gardens, we returned to shore early as Czarina wasn’t feeling good.  Back on dry land, I explored the nearby Spanish-era fort which, in the past, served as a watch station for pirates, intruders and other enemies. Triangular in shape and probably constructed in the 19th century, it was made with rubble while cut coral blocks lined its portal and windows. The three corners of the structure were supported by round buttresses.

The triangular, Spanish-era fort

The triangular, Spanish-era fort

Another view of the fort

Another view of the fort

Inside are embedded trusses and a triangular pillar in the middle, indication that the fort may have had a second floor, probably made of wood. A large hardwood cross, with an 18oos date carved on it, once stood near the fort but is now housed in a nearby modern chapel. The fort was said to have formed a network with the towns of Baclayon, Loay and Tagbilaran.

View of the fort from another angle

View of the fort from another angle

The ladies were already back from their snorkeling trip when I returned.  Soon enough, we were back on board our boat for the second half of our island hopping expedition – Balicasag Island.  The waters were already choppy when we left and our boat had to travel slowly as the waves kept pounding the boat.  Soon a number of us (including me), especially the already ill Czarina, were already feeling seasick and, since our destination was still a long way off and it was already way past noontime, it was decided to just return to our resort.  Anyway, I have been to Balicasag Island 11 years ago, going around it on foot and snorkeling its coral gardens.  However, I felt sorry for those who haven’t been there. Oh well, you can’t win them all.

The triangular pillar in the middle of the fort

The triangular pillar in the middle of the fort

How to Get There: Pamilacan Island is located about 20 kms. southeast of Tagbilaran City, 23 kms. east of Balicasag Island and 11 kms. (a 45-min. pumpboat ride) offshore from the town. Pumpboats can be hired at Baclayon port.

Loboc River Cruise (Bohol)

Floating restaurant of Village Floating Resto & Cruises

Floating restaurant of Village Floating Resto & Cruises

Upon arrival at Loboc, we all crossed over to the other bank of the Loboc River, via the Alfonso L. Uy Promenade, to get to the Loboc Tourism Complex where the floating restaurants are docked.  It has been 11 years since the last time I had my first Loboc River Cruise with my family and I was curious as to what’s new with the cruise.

The Loboc Tourism Complex - a tourist attraction by itself

The Loboc Tourism Complex – a tourist attraction by itself

This time, I now notice so many improvements in the area. Well for one the floating restaurant terminal is now concreted, there are now lamp posts along the river banks (for night cruises), helpful directional signage and an orderly parking lot, the restrooms are clean and the complex was wi-fi enabled.  This made the complex an exceptional tourist attraction by itself.

Floating restaurant terminal

Floating restaurant terminal

When we got to the boat terminal, we were all whisked to the waiting double-hulled floating restaurant of Village Floating Resto & Cruises.  The setup this time was different from our past typical boat tour.   Instead of different tables for different groups of guests, a long, flower-bedecked table was instead set up with green table cloth and fresh buco in the shell for each one of us.

Being serenaded with bossa nova songs

Being serenaded with bossa nova songs

Our lunch was also to be something different, not the typical buffet.  When our boat got underway, we were first entertained by a local band with a versatile and talented female lead vocalist singing bossa nova songs for our listening pleasure.  This got us in the mood for lunch, however late it was.

Our media group

Our media group

The food soon started coming in, starting with the appetizers – fish kinilaw, puso salad and summer rolls.  This was followed by law-oi soup.  The main course that followed next was out of the ordinary – a humongous boodle feast, to be eaten kamayan-style

Appetizers – fish kinilaw, puso salad and summer rolls

Appetizers – fish kinilaw, puso salad and summer rolls

Fruit skewers, puto cuchinta, ube pannacotta, banancue

Fruit skewers, puto cuchinta, ube pannacotta, bananacue

It consisted of pork humba, chicken inasal, sisig-stuffed squid, grilled vegetables, pinais na isda and corn on the cob plus steamed rice, all laid out on banana leaves.  Our delightful lunch was capped by a series of desserts consisting of ube pannacotta, bananacue, puto cuchinta and fruit skewers.

Our boodle feast

Our boodle feast

In about an hour, our boat reached the endpoint of our 2-km. cruise – Busay (or Tontonan) Waterfalls.  These series of low waterfalls, used to generate electricity for the town, drops 15 m. in 2 stages.  We were already done with lunch when docked near a floating wooden platform with rope railing.  Alighting here, we had the luck of seeing a rare rainbow beneath a nearby small waterfall.

Busay Falls

Busay Falls

The author at the floating viewing platform

The author at the floating viewing platform

The rainbow uderneath a small waterfall

The rainbow uderneath a small waterfall

After a few minutes at the viewing deck, we again boarded our boat and, when all were accounted for, turned around for our return trip upriver.  Along the river, the boat stopped at a small bamboo and nipa jetty decorated with banderitas and colorful guitars hung on the rafters. Here, some locals, dressed in apple-green filipiniana outfits, provided us a culture show, dancing the kuradang and the tinikling.

A kuradang dance performed for us at a riverbank jetty

A kuradang dance performed for us at a riverbank jetty

Tinikling dancers in action

Tinikling dancers in action

Continuing on our return cruise, our band, not to be outdone, also regaled us with a modern dance number. Soon enough, we back at the boat terminal by 3:30 PM, totally refreshed by this showcase of Boholono hospitality, cuisine and culture and quite ready for our next adventure.

The band and staff of Village Floating Resto & Cruises

The band and staff of Village Floating Resto & Cruises

Village Floating Resto & Cruises: Brgy. Valladolid, Loboc, Bohol. Tel: (038) 537-9223  and (038) 501-8078. Mobile number: (0928) 507-7627. E-mail: villagefloatingresto@yahoo.com.

Beach Camping at Dampalitan Island (Padre Burgos, Quezon)

From Borawan in Lipata Island, Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I returned to our hired boat which was going to bring us to our camping destination – the rocky and undeveloped Dampalitan Beach on Dampalitan Island.

Western side of Dampalitan Beach

Western end of Dampalitan Beach

It was just a short 10-15 minute boat ride to the island and we made landfall just before noontime.  The island had a long, wide and lovely stretch of tree-lined white sand beach – the perfect beach camping ground.

Eastern end of Dampalitan Beach

Eastern end of Dampalitan Beach with exposed rock formations

As I was first off the boat, I proceeded to scout around for a suitable spot to set up our tent.  I found a spot somewhat shaded by some worn out and tattered coconut and pine-like agoho (Casuarina equisetifolia) trees.

Setting up the 5-pax Coleman tent

Setting up the 5-pax Coleman tent

Beside it is a bamboo picnic table and the remains of one of 10 nipa cottages which were damaged or destroyed by the recent typhoon Glenda (international name: Rammasun). Strung at the trunks of the trees are 4 threadbare but still sturdy hammocks.

Maricar, the author, Violet, Jandy and Lanny at our picnic table

Maricar, the author, Violet, Jandy and Lanny at our picnic table

Still, the spot suited us just fine.  The owner of the nearby house, which had a convenience store and a storage tank for fresh water (sold at PhP50 per container), informed us on the fees to be paid – an entrance fee of PhP60 per person (total: PhP300) plus a camping fee of PhP200.  We also rented the nearby picnic table (for PhP150) where we temporarily laid down our just unloaded camping gear and  provisions.

Lazing around in our hammocks

Lazing around in our hammocks

First up on our agenda was the setting up of our 5-pax, 3 m. x 3 m. Coleman dome tent with peaked rainfly.  That done, we rested awhile, with Violet, Maricar, Jandy and Lanny doing so on the hammocks while I did so in our tent.  Come late afternoon, the sun was now low on the horizon and low tide was setting in so we decided to do some swimming and explore the now exposed rock formations. Cloudy skies prevented us from viewing the sunset.

Exploring the exposed rock formations

Exploring the exposed rock formations

When we returned to our campsite, another group of young overnight campers have already set up their tents beside us and were already preparing their barbecue grills for dinner.  We also followed their lead, borrowing a grille from the caretaker and buying a pack of charcoal as we also brought along some juicy, marinated pork belly (liempo) for grilling.  While Violet and Lanny were tending to the grilling, Maricar was busy preparing her signature yang chow fried rice.

Dusk at Dampalitan Island

Dusk at Dampalitan Island

After enjoying this wonderful al fresco repast, we next washed away the sea salt from our bodies, Jandy and I sharing a container of fresh water.  We all whiled the time away by playing a card game of  pekwa (the Philippine name for the game fan tan or card dominoes) and later chatted about our life experiences.  Retiring early, Violet, Maricar, Jandy and I occupying the tent while Lanny slept in one of the hammocks outside.  The night was initially warm but it slowly cooled, via an incoming sea breeze, in the wee hours of the morning.

Dinner preparation courtesy of Maricar, Violet and Lanny

Dinner preparation courtesy of Maricar, Violet and Lanny

Come morning, breakfast was another al fresco affair, with pork luncheon meat,  freshly cooked steamed rice and cups of coffee.  We then dismantled our tent and packed our belongings.  As we still had time before the 10 AM arrival of our boat, the others went swimming while I decided to explore the island beyond the cliffs confining the cove.

Our grilled pork belly (liempo)

Our grilled pork belly (liempo)

Past the cliffs was another cove with a long, beautiful but deserted stretch of white sand beach lined, not by trees, but by mangroves.  I didn’t go very far as the sun was high up in the sky and I forgot to bring a hat.  When I returned to our campsite, our boat had already arrived and our gear loaded.  After paying our bill, we boarded our boat for the short return trip back to our cottage at Brgy. Basiao where, after washing up, we loaded our stuff and left for Lucban (Quezon).

The magrove-lined, white sand cove beyond the cliff

The magrove-lined, white sand cove beyond the cliff

Dampalitan Beach may not be outstandingly beautiful but it is still nice and somewhat laid-back, offering a quiet beach retreat quite unlike crowded and overdeveloped beaches such as Boracay.  Similar to Anawangin or Nagsasa Cove in Zambales, it is really more for camping, picnicking, swimming, hiking, watching the sunset or just lazing around in a hammock.

Borawan Beach (Padre Burgos, Quezon)

After an early breakfast of corned beef and rice at Basiao Resort, Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I double checked all the stuff we were to bring for our island hopping and beach camping (at Dampalitan Island) trip – tent, portable stove, rechargeable lamp, provisions, extra clothes, etc. Our boatman arrived by 8 AM and he started to load all our stuff.

Borawan Beach

Borawan Beach

Limestone cliffs

Limestone cliffs

Soon we were off to our first destination – Lipata Island.  We arrived there after a short 15-min. boat trip.  The island is the site of Borawan Beach, situated within lush mountains and rocky cliffs overlooking the Tayabas Bay in the Sibuyan Sea.  Day trippers here are required to pay an admission fee of PhP80 per person (plus another fee if you will stay overnight).

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When we arrived, the island was somehow pack with a number of overnight guests who stayed in tents (for those without one, these can be rented for PhP500).  The island also has communal showers (PhP20) and toilets (PhP10) with fresh water.  There are also a few nipa picnic huts for rent and a small store selling overpriced food and snacks.

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The island’s name is said to be a portmanteau (blend) of the world-famous islands of Boracay and Palawan. Indeed, the beach has its own spectacular (though not as grand) rock formations like the limestone cliffs of Palawan but, sorry to say, not the crystal-clear waters and the fine, white sand of Boracay. The coarse sand beach is actually beige and it certainly isn’t a long stretch dotted with coconut trees. Instead, the shoreline of this short stretch of beach is dotted with huge rock boulders with a backdrop of high limestone walls.

A small store selling food and drinks and renting out tents

A small store selling food and drinks and renting out tents

The shower room and picnic huts

The shower room and picnic huts

Still, its towering, Palawan-like karst formations and limestone cliffs are perfect for rock climbing, bouldering and rappelling.  It’s also a good venue for photo ops.  Swimming here is done cautiously as there are a lot of sea urchins and jellyfish.  The overnighters also told us that they saw 3 sea snakes near the huge boulder.  Anyway, we didn’t plan to stay overnight on the island.  After partaking of our packed lunch of adobo and rice, we left the island by 11 AM.

Lanny, Violet, Maricar, the author and Jandy

Lanny, Violet, Maricar, the author and Jandy

How To Get There: Go to Brgy. Marao in Padre Burgos and, from there, you can rent a boat bound for Borawan.

Return to Puting Buhangin Beach (Pagbilao, Quezon)

Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I have barely caught our breath upon arriving at Basiao Resort but, as it was still early in the afternoon, we decided to avail of a island hoping tour.   Normally, it cost PhP1,800 for a day tour but, as we were doing it over 2 days, we were to pay PhP2,000.  We had a choice of 3 islands – Dampalitan Island, Lipata Island and Pagbilao Grande Island.

On our way to Pagbilao Grande Island

On our way to Pagbilao Grande Island

The first two, part of Padre Burgos town, were just nearby so we chose the latter which was part of Pagbilao town.  This wouldn’t be my first visit to the island, having done so during a media tour at Pagbilao a little over 4 months ago.  However, this would be the first time I would leave for the island from Padre Burgos which is, distance-wise, nearer to the island than Pagbilao town.

The Bagosina island with a house on top

The Bagosina island with a house on top

For this island tour, we just donned our swimming attire.  The boat trip took just 45 mins. Along the way, we passed the nearest of the Bagosina Islands, which had an unsightly roofless house (damaged by typhoon Glenda) on top.

Lipata Island

Lipata Island

We also passed the white sand beaches and towering rock formations of Lipata Island (site of Borawan Beach), one of our 2 island destinations scheduled for tomorrow (the other is Dampalitan Island).

A hill being graded at the TEAM Power Plant in Pagbilao Grande Island

A hill being graded at the TEAM Power Plant in Pagbilao Grande Island

At Pagbilao Grande Island, only the tall chimney of 735-MW Team (Tokyo Electrification and Marubeni) Energy coal-fired thermal power plant  could be seen during our boat trip.  We also saw the damage being done on the nearby hill, possibly to create a new road for the power plant.  It wasn’t a nice sight.

Puting Buhangin Beach

Puting Buhangin Beach

We soon made landfall at the beautiful cove of the 70 m.  long and 10 m. wide Puting Buhangin (which literally means “white sand”) Beach with its white sand, clear emerald waters and coconut trees.  Unlike my first visit, the beach (also called Lukang Beach  after the Lukang family) wasn’t  as  packed with picnickers and beachcombers.

Violet, Maricar and Jandy near the Kuwebang Lambas' beachside entrance

Violet, Maricar and Jandy near the Kuwebang Lambas’ beachside entrance

However, we were more interested at the small, unique and tunnel-like  Kwebang Lampas, located at one end of the beach, than with the beach itself.  During my first visit, the waters inside the cave were waist deep and we didn’t venture to go out its seaside entrance.  This time around, it was low tide and the cave floor was exposed.  What’s more, we were able to venture out its seaside exit, below beautiful rock limestone formations, and enjoy the warm waters.

Kuwebang Lampas (2)

Back at our boat, we paid the mandatory PhP80 entrance fee per person (PhP400 for all five of us).  It was now late in the afternoon when we returned to the mainland and our boat had to dock some distance from the shore as it was now low tide.

Jandy, Maricar, the author at Lanny at Kwebang Lampas

Jandy, Maricar, the author at Lanny at Kwebang Lampas

Puting Buhangin Beach: Pagbilao Grande Island, Brgy. Ibabang Polo, Pagbilao, Quezon.

The Pagbilao Islands (Pagbilao, Quezon)

It was already midway in the afternoon when we finished our lunch at Cortijo de Palsabangon Farm Park & Restaurant and, according to Lurhen, we had to leave now if we were to catch the boat and avoid the low tide at Pagbilao Wharf (also known as Daungan) in Sitio Kalawit.  Up ahead was the piece de resistance of our Appsline Travel-sponsored Lucena-Pagbilao Media Tour – the Pagbilao Islands.

Author at Pagbilao Grande Island

Author at Pagbilao Grande Island

Upon arrival at Daungan, our huge 25-pax outrigger boat was already waiting for us.  Here, we met up with Mr. Celedonio “Dionnie” Dapla, member of the town’s tourism council and former head of the DENR Mangrove Experimental Forest.  We were supposed to visit Dionnie’s forest-farm and nursery in Brgy. Pinagbayanan but, as it was already late in the day to do so, he just saw us safely off.

L-R: The author, Lurhen, Dionnie, Rannie and Mel

L-R: The author, Lurhen, Dionnie, Rannie and Mel at Daungan

Mel, Maichel, Angela, Lurhen (with her son Marxus), Rannie and I were soon on our way, cruising the river, passing thick patches of mangrove forests along the way before heading out into Pagbilao Bay and the open sea.

Mangrove forests

Mangrove forests

The Pagbilao Islands, also called Pulo Island, are a lovely pair of islands (Pagbilao Grande in the north and Pagbilao Chico in the west)  joined together by a 500 m. long, 200 m. wide (3 m. above sea level at its highest point) sandy isthmus called Tulay Buhangin (meaning “sand bridge”).  The main settlement (also called Tulay Buhangin) is located here.

On our way into the open sea

On our way into the open sea

Though part of Pagbilao town, the islands are more accessible by boat from Padre Burgos.  Bounded by Laguimanok Bay in the north and east and Tayabas Bay in the west, the islands are 100 feet above sea level on a promontory overlooking Padre Burgos town to the east.  This ancient and still developing coral rock formation has numerous coves, caves cliffs and a hilly interior with clumps of giant yuccas and small, emerald forests.  There are also white sand beaches and rich fishing grounds.

Patayan Island (Pagbilao Chico Island)

Patayan Island (Pagbilao Chico Island)

Around 30-40 mins. on our journey we passed Pagbilao Chico Island, also called Patayan Island.  It has a smooth stone beach and a single privately-owned beachhouse that can be rented out.  Its Bansilan Cave has cathedral-like dimensions.

The Team Energy coal-fired thermal power plant

The Team Energy coal-fired thermal power plant

We next espied the tall chimney of 735-MW Team (Tokyo Electrification and Marubeni) Energy coal-fired thermal power plant.  During our visit, a  huge cargo ship was unloading coal at the power plant.  The plant is the landmark for those taking the land route to Puting Buhangin Beach. Turning a corner past the power plant, we were greeted by beautiful rock limestone formations and Kwebang Lampas and, past it, the beautiful cove with white sand Puting Buhangin Beach with its clear emerald waters and coconut trees.

Puting Buhangin Beach

Puting Buhangin Beach

The 70 m.  long and 10 m. wide white sand Puting Buhangin (which literally means “white sand”) Beach, with Kwebang Lampas at one end, is located in Brgy. Ibabang Polo at the southwestern part of Pagbilao Grande Island.

Author at Puting Buhangin Beach

Author at Puting Buhangin Beach

We requested the boatmen to dock and, upon reaching the shore, Rannie and I  made for the beach. This private beach (also called Lukang Beach  after the Lukang family), available to the public on day trip visits (PhP100 entrance fee), was filled with people during our visit.  Some were staying on native picnic huts (rented for PhP300-500); others pitched tents along the beach, while others just availed of the shade of coconut trees.

Visitors making their way to the beach via the power plant and limestone formations

Visitors making their way to the beach via the power plant and the treacherous limestone formations

Other destination, though, was the small, unique cave right at the edge of the cove famously known as Kwebang Lampas whose opening we saw on the way to the cove.  Walking along the beach, we reached the foot of the limestone formation and carefully negotiated the rocks to the entrance of this easily explored, tunnel-like cave.   We could see the cave’s other opening at the opposite end.

Kwebang Lampas

Kwebang Lampas

They say that the water at one end of the cave is freezing cold, while water at the opposite end is warm, but I didn’t notice any difference.  Mel, Angela and Maichel soon joined us. After the usual photo ops, using Rannie’s camera, we made it back to the beach and our boat, thoroughly sated with the adventure we just experienced.  It was with some feeling of regret that we  left the island back for the mainland.

The author, Maichel, Mel and Angela at Kwebang Lampas

The author, Maichel, Mel and Angela at Kwebang Lampas

Appsline Travel Services and Consultancy: Phase 2, Krisanta Village, Brgy. Bukal, Maharlika Village, Pagbilao, Quezon.  Tel: (042) 716-0067.  Mobile number: (0922) 633-0363 (Ms. Lurhen T. Cortes). E-mail: yvette_24@yahoo.com andappsline0305@gmail.com.

A Leisurely and Fast-Paced Cruise of the Bugang River (Pandan, Antique)

We had barely caught our breath, upon our return to Malumpati Spring, when we were told to assemble at the dam area.  Here, three bamboo rafts awaited us, to quietly cruise, downstream, the 3 to 4-km. length of the Bugang River. Unique modes of transportation here, these rafts, only assembled when needed, were manned by 3 BCBTO polemen to steer the raft – one standing in front and two at the rear.

The bamboo rafts waiting for us at the dam

The bamboo rafts waiting for us at the dam

Cruising a quiet stretch of the Bugang River

Cruising a quiet stretch of the Bugang River

Jandy, Eman and I rode in one raft.  Through this scenic cruise, we appreciated this river’s rich ecosystem of diverse and lush flora and fauna as we snake along the clear, emerald green waters of the river.  The hour-long raft trip took us along a surreal landscape of decades-old trees (some of them gnarled), mangroves, coconut trees, bamboo groves and nipa palms that lined the banks all along the turquoise water’s edge. Some of the trees were felled by the fury of Typhoon Yolanda International name: Haiyan) which also struck the town.

The colorful rocks underneath the clear waters

The colorful rocks underneath the clear waters

Negotiating a bamboo fish trap

Negotiating a bamboo fish trap

We sometimes had to duck to avoid hitting overhanging tree branches along the way but, altogether, the river cruise produced a calming effect on me.  Where the water level was shallow and the current slow, we could clearly see, right through the bottom, the colorful stones and rock formations underneath. Dipping my feet at the river’s cool waters was an extreme delight.

A gnarled tree along the river bank

A gnarled tree along the river bank

A grotesque tangle of tree roots

A grotesque tangle of tree roots

At some part of the river, some rapids would form, something our expert polemen could negotiate with ease and precision. At the other parts of the river, we passed under a number of bamboo or wooden bridges and encountered small islands, a number of grazing carabaos along the river bank and some unsightly bamboo fish traps.

A river bank spectator

A river bank spectator

Banks lined with nipa palms

Banks lined with nipa palms

On our arrival at Manlonggong Point, beneath the Guia Bridge, we alighted from our bamboo rafts and transferred to smaller bancas manned by one boatman each. I only had time to rub some suntan lotion before boarding my banca.  Jandy rode on another one.

Transferring to small bancas at Manlonggong Point

Transferring to small bancas at Manlonggong Point

Racing towards the sea on my banca

Racing towards the sea on my banca

This time, we were to paddle, the rest of the river’s length, out towards the Bugang Estuary facing Pandan Bay. Pandan riverfolk waved and cheered us along the river bank as Jandy and I, as well as the others, paddled furiously towards this finish line.

Merienda at Cocco Beach Bar & Restaurant

Merienda at Cocco Beach Bar & Restaurant

Our boat race ended at the Bugang River Estuary Fishport and, from there, we again boarded the van for the short drive to Le Palme Beach Resort.  Here, we were to have a merienda of kakanin, bibingka and buko juice at its Cocco Beach Bar and Restaurant facing the white sand beach of Pandan Bay.

Check out “Resort Feature: Le Palme Beach Resort

Le Palme Beach Resort: Brgy. Zaldivar, Pandan, Antique. Tel: (036) 278-9037. Mobile number: (0912) 335-5293.  E-mail: support@lepalmebeachresort.com  and lepalmebeachresort@yahoo.com.  Website: www.lepalmebeachresort.com.

Malalison Island (Culasi, Antique)

We woke up at 7 AM and, after breakfast at Anna Sophie Hostel, were all driven to the Culasi Municipal Hall where we made a courtesy call on Mayor Joel A. Lomugdang.   From the municipal hall, we made the short drive to Culasi Blvd. where we boarded 3 motorized pumpboats that would take us on our day-long excursion to Malalison (also called Mararison) Island, the nearest of the town’s offshore islands (the others are Batbatan Island and Maniguin Island). Joining Jandy and I on the boat were Flord and Maricar.

Malalison Island

Malalison Island

The 4-km. boat ride to this beautiful, 55-hectare, undeveloped, and hook-shaped island took just 20 mins..  On the island is one of the town’s three island barangays with about 700 inhabitants.  We landed at the island’s white sand beach, in front of the shell of what used to be the multi-purpose hall, ruined when Typhoon Yolanda (international name: Haiyan) struck the island.  Nearby is the island’s signature sandbar which stretches about 100 m. from the beach.

On our way to Malalison Island

On our way to Malalison Island

As it was still very early for lunch, we decided to trek the raw and rugged beauty of the island, with its hilly and grassy prairie-like landscape (the island has been called the “Batanes of Antique”).   Maricar and Clelia decided to just stay behind and swim the time away.

View of the fishing village, the sandbar and Mt. Madja-as

Bird’s eye view oof the fishing village, the sandbar and Mt. Madja-as

The initial trek was very tiring, as it was uphill and, as the terrain was mostly grassland, there were almost no trees to provide shade from the intense heat of the sun.  However, the view from the top was spectacular, with the fishing village and its lagoon and sandbar below us and, across the deep blue sea, majestic Mt. Madja-as on the Antique mainland.

A carnivorous pitcher plant

A carnivorous pitcher plant

As we trekked the island’s spine, we observed some of the island’s interesting flora including carnivorous pitcher plants.  The downhill trek was not as tiring as the uphill trek but it was quite treacherous as the trail was very steep.  At this point, we could espy the island’s white sand cove, Nablag Islet, the typhoon-damaged, roofless shell of the island’s elementary school, and a small grove of pine trees as well as mosquito-repelling eucalyptus and neem trees.

Trekking the Batanes-like landcape

Trekking the Batanes-like landscape

Upon reaching the school, we rested for a while before proceeding on to the cove.  Nablag Islet is just across the cove and we can cross it by foot, via a sandbar, as it was low tide, but we decided against it as it was almost noontime and we still had a long return trek ahead of us.

White sand cove and Nablag Islet

White sand cove and Nablag Islet

From the cove, we again went up a hill, where we again had magnificent views around the island, and down the rock shore where we found two 100-ft. long, sea-sculpted caves.  Trekking here was also difficult as we had to traverse slippery and sharp boulders along cliffs and rock formations.  Here, Regine slipped and drenched her camera.  From this area, we were picked up (or should I say, rescued) by our boat which brought us back to the village.

A sea-sculpted cave

A sea-sculpted cave

At the village, a pumpboat soon arrived, bringing in our packed lunch as well as Mr. Jonathan Jurilla and Ms. Marie Joy R. Sumagaysay, both U.P. Visayas (Miag-ao, Iloilo) Asst. Professors, the latter present during the patadyong weaving demonstration at Bugasong.  For the next three days, both were to join us for the rest of the tour.

Traversing rock formations along the coast

Traversing rock formations along the coast

After lunch, Maricar, Regine, Leah, Clelia, Arjay and Marcos left on the boat back to Culasi. Eman, Laurie, Jandy and I decided, while waiting for the boat to return, to go swimming at the left side of sandbar while Flord, Rupert, Arthele, Laurie, Jonathan and Joy whiled the time away under the relaxing shade of a tree.

Mt. Madja-as with sandbar in foreground

Mt. Madja-as with the island’s sandbar in foreground

Swimming here was great, as the shore along the sandbar was relatively shallow, the waters crystal clear and we again had the magnificent view of Mt. Madja-as as a backdrop, a scene that reminded me of Camiguin’s White Island and its backdrop of Mt. Hibok-Hibok.  Our boat arrived arrived after an hour and a half and the rest of us left the island by 4 PM.

Our media group at Culasi Blvd.

Our media group at Culasi Blvd.