Category Archives: Philippines, Republic of the

Church of St. Augustine (Bantay, Ilocos Sur)

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Bantay‘s restored 18th century Church of St. Augustine, also known as the Shrine of Our Lady of Charity, was first built from 1691 to 1692 by Fr. Alonso Cortes.  Evacuees took refuge here during the Basi Revolt of 1807. It was rebuilt and restored by Fr. Eduardo Navarro (parish priest from 1870 to 1875) and was finished by Fr. Lizardo Villanueva in 1892.

Church of St. Augustine

Church of St. Augustine

Fr.  Alfredo Versoza patched the roof with galvanized iron.  Damaged during World War II, the church was repaired in 1950 and the interior decorated by Fr. Jose Brillantes. This 45.09 m. long and 11.69 m. wide brick church is flanked by massive rectangular twin towers.

The church complex. The separate bell tower is on the far left

The church complex. The separate bell tower is on the far left

Its facade has Baroque (decorative volutes around the second level windows), Neo-Gothic (pointed lancet-like arch flanked by blind pointed arcading at recessed main entrance) and pseudo-Romanesque (central window’s shaft with balustrade) features.

The church facade

The church facade

The facade’s only decorated parts are broken curves along the top of the triangular pediment and the inverted traceries below the eaves. The imposing church once was in the shape of a cross but the two wings that formed the arms of the cross were damaged during the Second World War.

The church interior

The church interior

The eerie but romantic “Chapel by the Ruins,” an open air chapel at the remains of the right wing of the original structure, was said to have been the place where priests were imprisoned by Diego Silang during the 1763 revolt against the Spaniards.

The Chapel By The Ruins

The Chapel by the Ruins

Its separate 3-storey hilltop and slightly crumbling square bell tower, which served as a lookout for approaching enemies, could be climbed for a fine view of an old nearby cemetery and the surrounding area.

The separate bell tower

The separate bell tower

Inside the church is the miraculous and greatly venerated image of Our Lady of Charity (Nuestra Señora de La Caridad), the oldest Marian image in the Ilocos.  Legend has it that it was found my some local fishermen in a wooden box which was floating on Bantagay River. The 50-inch tall image is made of wood, except for the ivory face and hands (its ivory parts were stolen in 1928). On January 13, 1956, the image was officially crowned by Egidio Vagnozi, Apostolic Nuncio to the Philippines.

Historical plaque

Historical plaque

Address: Manila-North Road, Zone 5, 2727 Bantay, Ilocos Sur. Tel. (075) 722-4072. Bell Tower open 6 AM – 6 PM. Feast of St. Augustine: May 5. Feast of Our Lady of Charity: Second Sunday of January.

How to Get There: Bantay is located 406.17 kms. from Manila and 1.83 kms. north of Vigan City.

Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone (Bantay, Ilocos Sur)

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Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone

Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone

The Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone (ISAZ), an adventure center at the boundary of the towns of Bantay and Santa, near the postcard-pretty Old Quirino Bridge, is the newest attraction in this side of Ilocos Sur.  Owned, built and operated by the provincial government, it was fully operational since  December 22, 2011.

Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone (8)

With its climbing and rappelling walls, kayak center, zorb balls, giant swing and its 400 m. long zip line that crosses the Abra River, it mostly caters to adrenaline junkies and adventure freaks and is perfect for local and international tourists wanting a bit more than visiting museums and the cobble streets of nearby Vigan City, a 15-min. drive away.

Zipline tower

Zipline tower

They also offer rock climbing and rappelling at the rocky mountains of Banaoang.

Giant Swing

Giant Swing

Adventure Zone: Brgy. Banaoang, Bantay, Ilocos Sur. Rates: zipline (Php250, one way, sitting; PhP300 each, one-way, superman; PhP500,  two way), rappelling (PhP150, 2 attempts), wall climbing (PhP150, 2 attempts), kayaking (PhP150, 30 mins.), giant swing (PhP180, single; PhP300, twin).

How to Get There: Sta. Maria-bound buses (fare: PhP25) from Vigan City pass by the area.

Old Quirino Bridge (Bantay, Ilocos Sur)

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The old Quirino Bridge

The old Quirino Bridge

The scenic Old Quirino Bridge, also called Banaoang Bridge, is an old Parker-type (camelback) bridge named after the late former Philippine President Elpidio Quirino, who hails from Vigan. Spread across the Abra River, it majestically connects the two beautiful, transcending rocky mountain slopes of the town of Santa and the tail end of Bantay, both in Ilocos Sur.

The mighty Abra River

The mighty Abra River

Considered as one of the country’s most beautiful bridges, this arch bridge, next to the Vigan Gap,  is considered an iconic symbol of Ilocos Sur. Aside from its magnificent views, it is also widely praised for its marvelous engineering and grand architectural design. The approach to the bridge is as scenic as the bridge itself.

Quirino Bridge (5)

The original bridge trusses

At the height of Super Typhoon Feria (which devastated the province from  July 4-6, 2001), one of its steel spans was damaged and washed away.  The old, 4-span bridge was reconstructed, with a different third quarter K-truss portion, and is still presently passable.  However, on December 2007, Chinese engineers and a local construction company started to build a new, 456 m.-long replacement, a stone’s throw (350 m.) from the original bridge.

The replacement span

The replacement span

The new Quirino Bridge is a component of the Japan-funded Urgent Bridges Construction Project for Rural Development which plans to replace old bridges with new bridges, on national roads that lead to urban centers all over the country. On December 30, 2009, it was officially opened by then-President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo. The old truss type bridge, currently preserved as a tourist attraction, doubles up as a backup in case the new main bridge is damaged by typhoons.

The new Quirino Bridge

The new Quirino Bridge

Old Quirino Bridge: Vigan Gap, Bantay, Ilocos Sur

Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria, Virgin and Martyr (Santa, Ilocos Sur)

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Church of St. Catherine, Virgin and Martyr

Church of St. Catherine, Virgin and Martyr

This interesting and picturesque church is situated near the sea, one kilometer off the highway.  It was first built by Fr. Pedro Torrices from 1849-1855 and was finished by Father Luis Lagar in 1875. In 1886, Fr. Jose Rodriguez Prada restored the church and built a belfry.  A convent, built by Fr. Rafael Redondo, was eventually destroyed.

Church of St. Catherine, Virgin and Martyr (3)Its one-storey Neo-Baroque facade has well emphasized super-positioned coupled piers;   a horizontal string cornice designed with block modillon and a undulating Baroque-style triangular pediment.  The three-centered depressed arch main entrance, flanked by semicircular arched windows, has jambs bordered by protruding blocks of stone.  A circular window,  on the choir loft, has lace-like carvings. The bell tower on the right is a new construction.

Church of St. Catherine, Virgin and Martyr (4)

Address. National Highway, Santa, Ilocos Sur. Tel: (077) 725 5033. Feast of St. Catherine, Virgin and Martyr: November 25.

How to Get There: Santa is located 366.8 kms. from Manila and 41.2 kms. south of Vigan City.

Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (Narvacan, Ilocos Sur)

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Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub

The Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (NOAH), a very unique adventure camp and outdoor sports complex in Narvacan, Ilocos Sur  founded in 2005, is another reason to visit Ilocos Sur (aside from the Spanish-era Earthquake Baroque churches and the Old World charm of Vigan).

Narvacan Beach

Opened last October 2012 by the local government headed by Mayor Zuriel S. Zaragoza, this one-stop shop offering various extreme activities will surely showcase one’s adventurous side and are very close to the elements: water, wind, earth and fire.

Bantay Abot Hill seen offshore from a Hobie Cat

NOAH hosts the Philippines’ first full-scale Via Ferrata (literally meaning “Iron Road” or “Iron Path”), a vertical 280-meter climb into a steep rock wall of the majestic 1,050-ft. high Bantay Abot Hill designed with the regular tourist in mind – no climbing experience required despite the challenges posed by the cliff face.

Media Tour Group at NOAH

Now a major tourist destination and a significant leap in the transformation of the once sleepy agricultural municipality of Narvacan into an adrenaline junkie’s paradise, NOAH aims to promote tourism and the beauty of the town with its grand, rocky mountains and magnificent view of the sea.

Arko Restaurant

Aside from the Via Ferrata, NOAH’s other attractions are paragliding, Hobie Cat sailing, kitesurfing, windsurfing, 4×4 ATVs, dune buggies, etc..  It also has an in-house, beachfront restaurant (Arko Restaurant) which is the first establishment that will greet you along Sulvec Port Road. It serves both local and foreign dishes including Ilocos Sur’s very popular bagnet (deep-fried, crispy pork belly).  Its backyard is a campsite (Php150/tent).  There’s a “sustainable” bunk for bonfires and outdoor toilet and bathing facilities.

Windsurfing lessons by the beach

For those learning to sail, wind surf and kite surf (the “water” activity), the uniquely located Bantay Abot Hill, directly in front of a 3 km. stretch of beach (from the abandoned Sulvec Port all the way to the Narvacan River), causes a special wrap-around, mid-day, side shore wind in the land breeze, making it safe (you still have to wear a life vest) as it does not pose the danger of getting blown out into the open sea.

The author trying his hand at windsurfing

Though fun, windsurfing isn’t easy as the sail gets heavy when wet and, when the wind hits, its much harder to control the boom and pull it back to your body. You can enjoy the sea breeze and the offshore scenery via Hobie Cat sailing. Cost is Php2,500 for windsurfing plus lessons (6 hours), Php800/30mins. for the Hobie Cat (maximum 2 pax) with a pilot and introduction to sailing, and Php800/hr. for windsurf board rental.

Thea author (left) with blogger Dave Gatensby on board a Hobie Cat

Riding dune buggies, 4 x 4 jeeps and ATVs (drivers must have a driver’s license), considered the “fire” activity, can bring out the Mad Max in you as you follow the hilly track and explore the mini sand dunes via an exhilarating, off-road experience tailor fit for first time riders. Starting from the Rock Garden (a luxurious beachfront event place), a number of ramps provided lots of thrills. Cost is Php2,500 per 4 x 4 (5 pax  maximum capacity).

Off road driving (photo: www.solitarywanderer.com)

To climb the Via Ferrata (the “earth” activity), you have to have to no fear of heights and be reasonably fit, with strong legs and upper body to do it. First, you have to don, with the assistance of the staff, protective gear such as helmet and other rappelling and climbing gears (carabineers, harness, etc.), all high-quality equipment from abroad.  Bring bottled water. Then you have to hike, under the scorching sun, to the base of Bantay Abot.  From there, you have to pull ourselves up 150 m. to get above some boulders.

Climbing Bantay Abot Hill

Along the way are handy ropes and cables. While climbing, your two carabineers are actually clamped into a steel cable so that, when you slip, you will still be attached to the cable, saving one from a fall. Upon reaching the zipline platform, you have decide to proceed with the Via Ferrata or exit the hill via NOAH’s 520 m. long zipline.

The author atop Bantay Abot Hill

Moving at 40 kph, a zipline ride lasts about 50 seconds (it’s a bit slow near the end) as you zipped down, with a bird’s eye view of the beautiful scenery, to Arko and the Bay Boulevard.

The author getting ready to zipline down

Others who continue on with the trickier Via Ferrata, climb the vertical, 300-foot high rock face aided by steel steps drilled into the rock, a setup like climbing a step-ladder.  This is not a totally vertical climb as there are diagonal portions on the Via Ferrata that require spreading your legs wide to maintain balance and keep them upright. Reaching the top is the highlight of the climb.

The Via Ferrata (photo: www.solitarywanderer.com)

You descend the summit by rappelling via a Tyrolean traverse cable (100 ft.) – perfectly safe as its safety feature actually allowed one to let go of their hands even when suspended 200 ft. from the ground. The Full Mountain Adventure (Via Ferrata, Tyrolean Traverse and the zipline going back to camp) will cost Php800/pax. Php300 for zipline only.

The Tyrolean Traverse

The highlight of a NOAH experience has to be the “air activity of paragliding (hence the media launch theme “Love is in the Air”), a competitive as well as recreational sport. Wind conditions change throughout the day and there may be several windows within the day for a successful launch.

The author (in blue) getting ready to paraglide with Carlaa Montero of Sarangani Paraglide as my pilot

Participants (again, you should not have any fear of heights) ride pickup trucks or buggies, along a zigzagging dirt road, to the top of Bantay Abot to be followed later by the paragliding gear.

Up, up and away…..

Participants will have to fly tandem with experienced pilots.  You are both positioned along the slope, with the chute spread out above and, when the wind rushes in, you both run off the heights and become airborne, hundreds of feet up, as you fly into the setting sun.

Selfie while airborne

Exhilaration rushes as you savor the joy of flying, at the same time being mesmerized by the beautiful and breathtaking vista of the rugged Ilocos Sur landscape, mountain ranges and the vast blue West Philippine Sea spread out before you.  After a 15-minute flight, you make a solid landing at the beach.. Check out my paragliding video here.

View from the air…..

Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (NOAH): Bulanos Beach, Brgy. Bulanos, Narvacan, Ilocos Sur. Tel: (02) 734-8883. Mobile number: (0919) 349-8473 (Two-6 Olangco).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/NarvacanOutdoorAdventureHub/. Instagram: @narvacanoutdooradventurehub.

How to Get There: By public transport, take any Vigan City (Ilocos Sur) or Laoag City (Ilocos Norte) bound Partas  (Cubao) or Farinas Transit (Manila) bus and tell the driver to drop you off at the Sulvec Port Road and, from there, get a tricycle going to NOAH in Bantay Abot. By car, take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), and Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway (TPLEX) or the Manila North Road until you reach Narvacan. From there, take the Sulvec Port Road on the left and go straight until you see NOAH’s Arko Restauarant on your right.

Baluarte Zoo (Vigan City, Ilocos Sur)

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Baluarte Zoo

Baluarte Zoo

It was our last day in Ilocos Sur and, as we still had a whole day for sightseeing prior to our evening departure for Manila, we decided to visit Baluarte Zoo, former Ilocos Sur Gov. Luis “Chavit” Singson’s home in Vigan City and one of the top tourist destinations in Ilocos Sur.  Along the highway in Napo, Magsingal, we took a bus or the 13-km./25-min. ride to Vigan City proper.

Zoo entrance

Zoo entrance

From the city proper, we all boarded two tricycles for the 10-min. ride to Baluarte. As it was Holy Week, there was a traffic queue as we neared the entrance so we alighted, paid our fare, and walked the rest of the way.  Prior to entering, we had lunch at an eatery just outside the zoo. Entrance to the zoo was free.

Zoo rates

Zoo rates

Zoo Map

Zoo map

The approximately 80-hectare Baluarte Zoo, where Chavit’s numerous pets can be found, sits on a hill that provides an awesome panoramic view of Vigan City. This interactive free-roaming animal sanctuary is home to albino and spotted deer; miniature horses; impalas; one-humped camels; goats; zebras; ostriches; monkeys; llamas and buffalo plus a slew of bird species, from the common African love birds, ducks, swans, midget chickens and parrots to the more exotic hornbills.

Spotted Deer

Spotted Deer

Zebras

Zebras

For caged animals, they have some reptiles like snakes, iguanas, monitor lizards, pythons, crocodiles and then there’s Bengal tigers and birds such as eagles, owls and peacocks.  Baluarte also features live daily animal shows (three times a day, 10 AM, 2 PM an 4 PM) and tell times when audiences are introduced to the animals.

Ostriches (2)

Free roaming ostriches

There’s also a petting zoo, a butterfly garden inside the garden where one can observe and have a more serene interaction with thousands of butterflies, some endemic to the Philippines; a track or horse riding; a skeet shooting range and a chapel, among others.

Chapel

Chapel

Singson's gold-clad resthouse

Singson’s gold-clad resthouse

The gold-clad building (called by locals as the “Golden Building”), topped with a burning bush sculpture up its roof, is Chavit’s personal multi-storey rest house which has a grand view of Vigan and the West Philippine Sea.

Singson's "Yellow Submarine"

Singson’s “Yellow Submarine”

Within the grounds, we had a glimpse of Chavit’s personal and functional one-man mini-submarine with its iconic yellow color (one can easily hazard a guess on what its name is), said to have been used by Chavit to track treasures during his free time. Kids will definitely enjoy the Jurassic Park background because of those life-size concrete dinosaurs. There was also a safari tour, using a long-seater golf cart, with a minimal fee of Php20 per person.

Life-size concrete dinosaurs

Life-size concrete dinosaurs

To interact and get a close encounter with the animals you can, for a price, also ride some ostriches, horses and ponies and can touch or carry an anaconda (PhP20) and iguana (PhP20). For a closer encounter with parrots and hornbills, visitors may choose to openly approach and feed them with bananas and seeds in a more open area. Each animal has there own designated attendant. The place also has souvenir shops (T-shirts, key chains, ref magnets, etc.) and food outlet.

Souvenir shop

Souvenir shop

The climax of our visit to the place is the Safari Gallery perched on top of the hill.  It houses a collection of deer heads (and other few animals) hanging on the wall; the collection of stuffed animals such as a lion, Bengal tiger, wildebeasts, bison, bear, buffalo, gazelles, elephant, sheep, and so many more killed in his safari adventures (paintings and photos of Chavit beside the dead animal are also posted).

Safari Gallery

Safari Gallery

Some are just skins of these wild animals. While I do not like the idea of killing these animals, it still looks awesome looking at them preserved and mounted. It is also well maintained with properly labeled items.

Stuffed animals at the Safari Gallery

Stuffed animals at the Safari Gallery

Melissa and Albert also tried out the Water Walking Ball (PhP50/pax/15 mins.), a large inflatable sphere that allows a person inside it to walk across the surface of a pool of water. Before leaving, Almira and Jandy tried out the tiburin ride, a rickshaw driven by a miniature horse. It allowed them a close-up view of the free roaming animals.

Water Walking Ball

Water Walking Ball

From Friday to Sunday, 6 – 9 PM (last entry 8:30 PM) there is a Night Zoo. Admission: (Discovery Trail): PhP50 for adults, PhP20 for children and PhP40 for senior citizens and persons with disability.  Tram on Tour:  PhP100 for adults, PhP40 for children and PhP80 for senior citizens and persons with disability. On weekends, from 7 – 8:30 PM, there’s  a Sala ti Darang (The Art of Fire Dancing) show.

Almira and Jandy's tiburin ride

Almira and Jandy’s tiburin ride

Baluarte Zoo: Brgy. Salindeg, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur.  Tel: (077) 722-7186. Open daily, 8 AM – 5 PM (last entry 4:30 PM).

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman (Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur)

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Church of St. Dominic of Guzman

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman

This church was built in 1762 by Dominican Father Jose Millan.  Father Miguel Padilla (parish priest from 1825 to 1869) made many improvements on the church and, in 1939, Monsignor Crisanto Padernal plastered and painted the church. Both bell tower and presbytery were damaged and rectory completely ruined by the earthquakes of June 12 and 22, 1957. The present bell tower has a base foundation of 9 m.. Diego Silang, leader of the 1762 Ilocano Revolt, was a bell ringer here.

The Baroque-style facade

The Baroque-style facade

Its protruding Baroque façade, divided into two levels by a string course, has a segmental arched main entrance flanked by superpositioned coupled Doric columns on pedestals. Above the entrance is a statue of St. Dominic of Guzman and a blind, wing-like arch with decorative moldings following its outline.

Blind, wing-like arch

Blind, wing-like arch

Lancet windows at the sides

Lancet windows at the sides

Above this ensemble is a two-level bell tower with semicircular arch openings. The receding side walls of this central segment have square pilasters topped by urn-like finials. The sides of the church have lancet windows.

The modern church interior

The modern church interior

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman: Manila North Road, Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur. Tel: (077) 726-3932. Feast of St. Dominic of Guzman: August 8.

How to Get There: Sto. Domingo is located 413.85 kms.(an 8-hour drive) from Manila and 12.7 kms. (a 25-min. drive) from Vigan City.

Bangui Wind Farm (Ilocos Norte)

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Bangui Wind Farm

Bangui Wind Farm

From Pagupud, Melissa, Almira, Albert, Jandy and I again rejoined the others in our bus as we returned to Bangui for our much awaited visit to its Wind Farm, fascinating landmark of the town. From the highway, we could already espy these gorgeous giant fans.

Bangui Bay

Bangui Bay

The windmills, officially referred to as the NorthWind Bangui Bay Project, is the first “Wind Farm” in the Philippines and is considered to be the biggest in Southeast Asia. The site, a graceful arc reflecting the 9-km. long and 100 m. wide shoreline of Bangui Bay, create a fusion of technological and natural elegance. Bordering the West Philippine Sea, it has a windswept area of 5,281 sq. m. (56,840 sq. ft.).

DSC08234

Its 20 units of 70-m. (230-ft.) high Vestas V82 1.65 MW wind turbine-generator units (WTGs), all arranged in a single row, were supplied NorthWind Power Development Corp, a Danish power firm.  Spaced 326 m. (1,070 ft.) apart, their three 41 m. (135 ft.) long, vertically-oriented rotor blades, on top of a 50 m. high tubular tower with a 6 m. diameter base, have a rotor diameter of 82 m. (269 ft.). The nacelle (casing), which encloses the generator, the gear box and the yaw mechanism (which turns the blades into the wind), is at the rear of the rotor blades.

A restaurant with viewing deck

A restaurant with viewing deck

The sight of the giant man-made wonders was astonishing and any picture with the windmills, whether near or far, is truly charming. You can come close to them, touch them to feel its vibration but you can’t hug them as they are just too big and wide. A must-try experience, there’s definitely no other place like it in the country. Locals even picnic under them and they could hear the whirring of the blades of these tall and imposing structures from above, all of them rotating in unison.   However, the picturesque beach in the area is not good for swimming as its waves are too strong.

The windmills as a backrop for photo shoots

The windmills as a backrop for photo shoots

Now a busy tourist spot, along the stretch are restaurants with viewing decks where you can eat and stalls selling souvenirs like windmill key chains, bags, T-shirts, ref magnets, miniature windmills and pen holders. Seaside horseback riding is also being offered here. You can also watch the spectacular sunset and ocean view while listening to crashing of the ocean waves. The best part o our visit here is that there are no entrance fees. You can shoot all you want. There are no restrooms though. Prepare yourself for the unrelenting winds that batter you from the open sea. There’s not much of an adventure there but it’s still worth visiting.

Souvenir shop

Souvenir shop

How To Get There From Laoag City, take a Cagayan-bound bus (a 1.5-hour trip) towards Burgos. After reaching Burgos, watch out for the directional marker on the left side of the road that leads to the Bangui Bay. Follow the dirt road leading to the bay. Some wind mills will already be visible from this point then make a right turn to the bay.

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse Museum (Burgos, Ilocos Norte)

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Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

After touring Bacarra Church, Melissa, Almira, Albert, Jandy and I again boarded our bus or the 33-km./40 min. drive to the century-old (first lit on March 30, 1892) Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, the most accessible of all the lighthouses in the island of Luzon and the highest elevated (the tower of the Cape Melville Lighthouse is the tallest at 90 ft/27 m.), still original and active Spanish era lighthouse in the country.

NHI Plaque

NHI Plaque

Last April 6, 2004, on our way to Bauang (La Union) from Pagudpud, my family and I dropped by to visit the lighthouse but wasn’t able to go in as it was then being rehabilitated. A few months after our visit, on August 13, 2004, Cape Bojeador Lighthouse was declared a National Historical Landmark and, on June 20, 2005, was also declared by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure. Recently, the lighthouse was used as the backdrop for the romantic scenes of Coco Martin and Julia Montes in ABS CBN’s  2012 teleserye “Walang Hanggan.”

View of Cape Bojeador and the West Philippine Sea

View of Cape Bojeador and the West Philippine Sea

In Brgy. Paayas in Burgos, a sign on the right side of the Maharlika Highway indicates the winding and narrow, two-lane concrete road that leads to the base of the lighthouse. From the base, we boarded two tricycles (PhP50/each way) that took us to the small parking lot where  there are stalls selling ice candy, canned soda, some finger foods and souvenirs (including a wooden craft replica of the lighthouse with a pen stand).

The courtyard

The courtyard with cistern in the middle

Service building

Service building

Upon arrival, we climbed a flight of concrete stairs to the perimeter wall.  Here, we had a good view of the rough and rocky Cape Bojeador coastline and the whitecaps of the West Philippine Sea. We then proceeded to the courtyard where the service buildings and the cistern are located.

T-shaped stairway

T-shaped stairway

The main pavilion

The main pavilion

An elegant T-shaped stairway then lead us up the verandah of the main pavilion, with its 3 apartments, 2 offices, capiz and louvered window panes and decorative iron grilles, where a hallway took us to the foot of the covered stairs that that lead to the entrance of the  20 m. (66-ft.) high octagonal stone tower.

Albert, Almira, Melissa an Jandy at the veranda of main pavilion

Albert, Almira, Melissa an Jandy at the veranda of main pavilion

This was as far as we could go as no visitors were allowed to go up, via a steep spiral metal staircase (not recommended or senior citizens), to the lantern room (now a modern electric lamp powered by solar panels) on top. Only a certain number of people are allowed in the tower at a time and access to the viewing gallery (surrounded with decorative iron grille work) depends on the outside wind condition.  As it was Holy Week, it was closed to visitors.

The lighthouse tower

The lighthouse tower

One place we had access to was the small, newly restored Cape Bojeador Lighthouse Museum.  Housed in the pavilion at the foot of the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, the rooms lining the hallway used to be shut but, since its inauguration last November 21, 2015, it is now open to the public. At the time of our visit, the rooms were sparsely decorated with low wooden furniture, including four-poster beds by the windows.

The author at one of the apartments

The author at one of the apartments

One room was filled with items that were once used to run the lighthouse (the original kerosene lamp, batteries, a part of the original first order Fresnel lens, etc.), perhaps the most striking in the area, plus samples of original brick work and old photos.

The lighthouse museum

The lighthouse museum

Original kerosene lamp

Original kerosene lamp

We also dropped by the Paru de Kabo Bojeador, the new tourist center which has stalls selling souvenirs and a safe resting area on what had previously been a construction road. The pavilion has also been transformed into lodging for people seeking basic accommodation (except for shared cooking facilities and water from the cistern, no other amenities are provided).

Original brick work

Original brick work

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse: Vigia de Nagpartian Hill, Burgos, Ilocos Norte. Admission: PhP40 for adults and PhP30 for children aged 7-12 years old.

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure (Paoay, Ilocos Norte)

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Paoay sand dunes

Paoay sand dunes

One of the highlights of our Holy Week sojourn in Ilocos Norte was our Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure.  From Pamulinawen Hotel, Jandy, Melissa, Almira, Albert and I had to take a 17-km./25-min. jeepney ride to Paoay town proper.  From there, we all boarded a tricycle for the 20-min. drive to the sand dunes. As we neared the dunes, Albert and I had to alight as the tricycle had a hard time climbing up a dune. Upon arrival, we met up with Mr. Jake A. Texon, the Operations Manager.

Onse Reef

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding  Adventure

Ilocos Norte is the only place across the Southeast Asian region where one can find a desert environment. Technically known as the “Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes,” it spans four Ilocos Norte towns. In 1993, due to its superlative natural beauty, geological uniqueness and scientific relevance, the sand dunes have been declared as a National Geological Monument (NGM) in the Philippines (other NGM sites include  the Hundred Islands National Park off  the coast of Pangasinan, the Taal Lake and Volcano Protected Landscape in Batangas, and the Chocolate Hills in the island of Bohol). The dunes have been used as the setting for the desert scenes in for Mel Gibson’s “Mad Max” (1979), Tom Cruise’s “Born on the Fourth of July” (1989) and local blockbuster flicks such as Nora Aunor’s “Himala” (1982), the “Ang Panday” series and “Temptation Island” (2011).

The desert-like terrain

The desert-like terrain

The sand dunes of Ilocos Norte, a one of a kind “extreme adventure” destination in the Philippines, is also ideal for 4 x 4 rides, similar to dune bashing in the Emirate of Dubai in the United Arab Emirates (a booming tourist attraction in the Middle East), and sandboarding. Dune bashing has the feeling and excitement of riding a roller coaster because of the up and down route of the off-road vehicle through the very high and very steep terrain and mountain-like features of the dunes.

A lone tree

A lone tree

The Paoay Sand Dunes, 88 hectares of wide expanse of sand, has the vast sandy characteristics of the Dubai desert (though the sand there is considerably pure because it doesn’t have particles like twigs, barks, stones and leaves), making it suitable for dune bashing and sand boarding.  However, the vehicles used in Dubai (such asToyota Land Cruisers) have roofs while the jeeps in Paoay are open-air and only have a single roll bar.

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In 2011, during our Lakbay Norte Media Tour, we tried the dune bashing and sandboarding at La Paz in Laoag City.  However, it is widely accepted that Paoay boasts the best terrains there are to find in the sand dunes complex and, recently, an outdoor group discovered an area in the village of Bacsil that is a good addition to the options present for sand dunes safaris.  This I wanted to find out.

The West Philippine Sea

The West Philippine Sea

How do the sand dunes of Paoay differ from earlier established commercial areas in the sand dunes complex? For one, it was only recently discovered so its terrain is as pristine as they can get plus not many tourists have visited the place. Also, the combination of wide sandy plains, clusters of closely-formed dunes, several oases and outlying vegetation plus a good view of the coast towards the West Philippine Sea, and the height of its dunes (some at 70 m. high) will surely not disappoint anyone visiting Bacsil. Aside from Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure, there are two other registered 4 x 4 operators at the Paoay sand dunes – Suba Sand Dunes and Culili Point Sand Dunes Double-Extreme-Adventure.

The staging area

The staging area

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure, according to Jake, was established on October 28, 2014 as a 15 member club whose members pitch in their time, talent and treasure to build the place. It has 21 4 x 4 units – five locally-manufactured Wrangler-type jeeps, 14 Toyota Land Cruisers and two modified Toyota Surfs, all diesel-powered and tuned for dune bashing by being equipped with large tires (underinflated to 10 psi) and heavy duty suspension systems.  Conversions usually cost PhP400,000 per unit.

Some of Onse Reef's 4 x 4s

Some of Onse Reef’s 4 x 4s

All units are manned by 25 drivers and 40 guides (who also teach sandboarding). The drivers and guides have to strictly adhere with safety nets for their passengers who are standing in open jeepney vehicles. Drivers also stay on existing tracks and areas, and do not create new ones in the limited vegetation, so they are caring for the area. For the site to become globally competitive, without disturbing the natural ascent, descent and curbs of the place, the trails were designed in consultation with expert adventure builders in the U.S.A., with names such as the “Snake Pit,” the “Devils Ride,” the “Blind Drop,” the “Triple Fall,” the “Roller Coaster,” etc.

Wrangler-type jeep

A Wrangler-type jeep

We tried out the dune bashing first. We hopped on the back of our blue Toyota Land Cruiser and, in a standing position (you can also do it seated but it is less fun), were asked to hold on tight to the roll bar. No seat belts, harness or head gear at all. Our 4 X 4 ride was more thrilling and enjoyable than any roller coaster ride I have ever experienced and we all felt a different kind of rush as we watched the road from above and screamed for our lives during the times when we felt like the vehicle would topple over.

Boarding our Toyota Land Cruiser

Boarding our Toyota Land Cruiser

You must have strong grip to prevent being thrown out, plus a strong heart to last the trip.  The drive on bumpy routes and very steep 45 degree angle downward slopes were very exciting. The driver knew how to give us an adrenaline rush. We soon learned how to move with the vehicle, especially on high deep hills and side-winding curves. It’s literally like riding a wild horse and surely an experience I’d be glad to do again.

On our way ......

On our way ……

We made a stopover on top of the dunes for some photo shoots. As we arrived during the long arid dry season, the dunes before us were barren and brown, with only wild grasses, shrubs and some sturdy trees. The beautiful, late afternoon sunset here, along the crimson skyline, is also said to be indescribable.  We also learned that offshore is Onse Reef, a 12-hectare-protected marine sanctuary and a beautiful diving site located within the territory of Barangays Bacsil, Mumulaan and Nagbacalan.

Stopover for photo shoot

Stopover for photo shoot

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After our 4 x 4 ride, the others tried sandboarding, an insane sport which, though so much harder than surfing and a little easier than wakeboarding and skiing, was still worth trying. All you need here is body balancing. You need to squat in order to balance and properly surf. Each tried to keep their balance on the stretch of roughly 10 to 15 m. run with the board still on their feet.  The board is geared up with oil to make it glide smoothly over the sand but still they tumbled. Good thing the sand is soft, with no rocks.

Jandy getting ready to surf

Jandy getting ready to surf

However, falling from the sand boards would get lots of sand in your pants. Only Melissa made a successful run while seated on the board. Though you would tumble down at first, you’ll get the hang of it after two or more tries. You will have to walk up the slope every time you surf down and the hard part is just climbing up the sand hill again as it does get very tiring.

Albert bends to balance himself

Albert bends to balance himself

A very nice place to test your nerves, don’t leave Paoay without trying dune bashing and sandboarding! It’s both exhilarating and scary and good for adrenalin junkies. It also gives you the authentic feeling of being in the Middle East as you do not have to travel to Dubai just to experience this. The drivers and the guides all make sure that you get a thrilling ride going up and down the sand dunes. It’s absolutely fun. At the staging area, there is a store that sells snacks, halo-halo and souvenirs.

Melissa makes it down the hill on her butt.....

Melissa makes it down the hill on her butt…..

It is best to try dune bashing when the sun’s not too punishing. As they operate as early as 5 AM, you can try out dune bashing either very early in the morning or late in the afternoon (to also view the nice sunset) as the really fierce heat of the noontime sun can burn your skin. Don’t go there between 10 AM and 4 PM. Bring bottled water with you, as it does get dry and tiring, bring sunblock lotion, a small towel plus wear sunglasses, rubber shoes (because the sand is hot) and a hat that won’t blow off.  Also make sure to have extra clothes and be prepared to get dirty. For those who want to take videos, better use a small camera that you can attach to its stand and hold it in front of you, since it will be hard to hold on to the big cameras while your ride is going down fast.

L-R: Melissa, Jandy, Albert and Almira

L-R: Melissa, Jandy, Albert and Almira

The 4 x 4 ride and sandboarding is not for the faint hearted, anxious, nervous, pregnant, the newly operated, have high blood pressure, fractures, epilepsy or heart disease. Only children 10 years old and above are allowed at the back of the vehicle.  Participants have to sign a waiver.  Peak season is summer, weekends and December.   Rates: PhP1,500 for a 30- minute ride and PhP2,500 for a 1- hr. ride. Maximum number of people is 5.

Posing with Jake A. Texon (in light blue shirt)

Posing with Jake A. Texon (in light blue shirt)

Onse Reef Offroad & Sandboarding Adventure: Brgy. 23, Bacsil, 2902 Paoay, Ilocos Norte. Mobile numbers: (0919) 650-4633 (Smart), (0917) 503-9543 (Globe), (0921) 738-0616 (Smart) and  (0999) 710-2779 (Globe). Email: Paoay.sandunes@yahoo.com. . Website: www.onsereef.com. Open daily, 5 AM – 7 PM.