Louvre Museum – Painting Collection (Paris, France)

Denon Wing

Jandy, Grace, Manny and Cheska walking along the Grand Gallery (Grande Galerie), First Floor, Denon Wing

Our first stop, upon the museum’s opening, was the Painting Collection which has more than 7,500 works, from the 13th century to 1848.  Nearly two-thirds are by French artists while more than 1,200 are Northern European. The French and Northern European works are in the Richelieu Wing and Cour Carrée while the Spanish and Italian paintings are on the first floor of the Denon Wing.

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The Italian paintings compose most of the remnants of Francis I and Louis XIV’s collections, others are unreturned artwork from the Napoleonic Era, and some were bought. The collection began with Francis I, who acquired works from Italian masters such as RaphaelMichelangelo and several works of Giambattista Pittoni .

Exemplifying the French School are the early Avignon Pietà of Enguerr and Quarton; the anonymous painting of King Jean le Bon (c.1360), possibly the oldest independent portrait in Western painting to survive from the post Classical era; Hyacinthe Rigaud‘s Louis XIV; Jacques-Louis David‘s The Coronation of Napoleon; and Eugène Delacroix‘s Liberty Leading the People.

Daru Room (SalleDaru)

The notable Italian holdings, particularly the Renaissance collection,  include works by Andrea Mantegna and Giovanni Bellini‘s Calvarys, which reflect realism and detail “meant to depict the significant events of a greater spiritual world.” The High Renaissance collection includes works of Leonardo da Vinci, Caravaggio and, from 16th century Venice, Titian‘s Le Concert ChampetreThe Entombment and The Crowning with Thorns.

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Some of the best known paintings of the museum have been digitized by the French Center for Research and Restoration of the Museums of France.

  • Salle Boucher (France) – Mid-18th century works of Francois Boucher, the favorite painter of the Marquise de Pompadour, Louis XV’s mistress. Room 927, Second Floor, Sully Wing
  • Salle Vien (France) – Works of Joseph-Marie Vien and the antiquarian the Comte de Caylus, pioneers of Neoclassicism in France. Room 934, Second Floor, Sully Wing
  • Carlos Besteigui Collection – devoted to the donation made n 1942 by Carlos de Beistegui (Mexico, 1863–Biarritz, 1953), it consists chiefly of portraits, and includes works by the 15th-century Burgundian Master, Hey, Rubens, van Dyck, Largillierre, Nattier, Drouias, Fragonard, Goya, David, Lawrence, Gérard, Ingres, Meissonnier, and Zuloaga. Room 901, Second Floor, Sully Wing
  • Salle Restout (France) – Works of Jean Restout, the leading religious painter of his day. Room 924,  Second Floor, Sully Wing.
  • Painters of Louis XIV Room (France) – numerous decorative projects at Versailles and other royal residences, commissioned by Louis XIV and all overseen by Le Brun, who gathered a team of noted specialists and succeeded in rallying personalities such as Jouvenet and La Fosse to the cause. First Floor, Sully Wing
  • Charles Le Brun Room (France) – features enormous compositions of Charles Le Brun, royal painter to Louis XIV, illustrating the life of the king’s hero and model, Alexander the Great.
  • Room 914, Second Floor, Sully Wing
  • Salle Watteau (France) – features Watteau’s highly original art  influenced by the French colorists, and also by his master, Claude Gillot, who introduced him to the fête galanteand scenes drawn from the theater. Room 917, Second Floor, Sully Wing
  • Salle des Etats (Mona Lisa room, Italy) – A new setting for Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa and Venetian Renaissance paintings. Room 711, First Floor, Denon Wing.
  • Salle Mollien (Romanticism, France) – houses large French Romantic paintings. Room 700, First Floor, Denon WingSalon Carré (Italy) – displays Italian paintings from the 12th to 15th centuries. Room 708, First Floor, Denon Wing
  • Grande Galerie (Italy) – houses collections of Italian paintings. Room 710, 712, 716, First Floor, Denon Wing
  • Salle Daru (Neoclassicism) – houses large-scale French Neoclassical paintings. Room 702, First Floor, Denon Wing
  • Galerie Médicis (Flanders – Rubens) – displays 24 monumental canvases, painted by Rubens between 1622 and 1625, originally housed in the Luxembourg palace, home of the Italian-born French queen Marie de Médici. Room 801 , Second Floor, Richelieu Wing
  • Salle Rembrandt (Holland – Rembrandt) – collection of Rembrandt’s paintings covering a wide range of subjects and periods, including a number of well-known self-portraits. Room 845, Second Floor, Richelieu Wing
  • Holland, Second Half of the 17th Century – late 17th century Dutch paintings represented by Johannes Vermeer, and contemporaries such as Pieter de Hooch, Ruisdael, and Ter Borch. Room 837, Second Floor, Richelieu Wing
  • Second School of Fontainebleau (France) – features the new decorative style of artists of the Second School of Fontainebleau. Room 824, Second Floor, Richelieu Wing
  • The Netherlands, 16th Century – features 16th-century Dutch painting, particularly that of the Antwerp school and the Romanists. Room 809, Second Floor, Richelieu Wing
  • The Netherlands, Second Half of the 16th Century – displays masterpieces of late 16th- and early-17th-century Northern and German Mannerism. Room 806, Second Floor, Richelieu Wing
  • Pays-Bas, Netherlands, First Half of the 16th Century – features works of Northern artists who assimilated Italian influences, but continued to work in the pictorial tradition established by the founders of the Dutch school of painting during the preceding century. Room 811, Second Floor, Richelieu Wing.

Louvre Museum: 75001 Paris, France.  Tel: +33 1 40 20 50 50. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, 9 AM- 6 PM (until 10 PM on Wednesday and Friday evenings).

The Louvre has three entrances: the main entrance at the pyramid, an entrance from the Carrousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and an entrance at the Porte des Lions (near the western end of the Denon wing).

Admission is free, from October to March, on the first Sunday of every month. Still and video photography is permitted for private, noncommercial use only in the galleries housing the permanent collection.The use of flash or other means of artificial lighting is prohibited. Photography and filming are not permitted in the temporary exhibition galleries.

How To Get There: the Louvre can be reached via Metro lines 1 and 7, station Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre Métro or the Louvre-Rivoli stations. By bus, take No. 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95 as well as the touristic Paris l’Open Tour. By car, there is an underground parking reachable by Avenue du Général Lemonier, every day from 7 AM – 11 PM.

Louvre Museum – Salon Carre (Paris, France)

The magnificent skylit Baroque ceiling of Salon Carre

The Salon Carré (Square Salon), one of the most emblematic rooms in the Louvre Museum, was built by French Baroque architect Louis Le Vau at the east end of the Grand Gallery (Grande Galerie) after the fire of 1661. It links the Apollo Gallery with the Grand Gallery.

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Ceiling detail

Between 1667 and 1789, the French monarchy sponsored periodic exhibitions of works by members of the Académie Royale de Peinture et de Sculpture (Royal Academy of Painting and Sculpture) and, from 1725, the Salon Carré and nearby rooms in the Louvre were the setting for these exhibitions. The official French art exhibition in Paris took its name from the Salon Carré.  In 1793, the Louvre’s first public museum opened here and, for many years, it housed exhibitions of contemporary art.

The author beside The Coronation of the Virgin, a 213 cm × 211 cm (84 in × 83 in) painting by the Italian early Renaissance master Fra Angelico, was executed around 1434-1435. The composition is based on the pyramidal structure of the steps and the figures of the Virgin and Christ.

On April 2, 1810, Napoleon I and Marie-Louise of Austria were married before God in a ‘chapel’ created by architects Charles Percier and Pierre-Francois-Leonard Fontaine out of the Salon Carré. In order to reach this large space usually given over the exhibition of paintings, the wedding procession and cortege had to walk all the way from the Tuileries Palace and down a great part of the Grande Galerie.

An excerpt from Fontaine’s Journal stated that Vivant Denon, the director of the Louvre, had been opposed to removal of the very large paintings in that gallery in order to make way for the two-level tribunes which were to be built to accommodate the congregation. However, the emperor, on hearing of this intransigence, “with animosity, gave the order for the paintings to be removed, and as for any which could not be removed, they should be burned”!

The threat was effective and the Salon Carré was emptied of its masterpieces and the tribunes built.  Furthermore, an altar was erected facing the entrance to the gallery, topped with a large cross and six chased vermeil candlesticks made by Odiot.  The walls were draped with gold embroidered hangings.

From 1848 up until World War I, the Salon Carré was used to display the Louvre’s masterpieces. The gallery now displays Italian paintings from the 12th to 15th centuries and from various schools. This magnificent, Baroque skylit gallery has towering windows and a vaulted gilt ceiling engraved with the names of painters, by nation, from the Renaissance (Peter Paul RubensRaphael, etc.) and Bartolome Esteban Murillo to Nicolas Poussin.

Jandy beside the The Battle of San Romano of Florentine painter Paolo Uccello, a set of three paintings in egg tempera on wooden panels, each over 3 m. long, depicts events that took place at the Battle of San Romano between Florentine and Sienese forces in 1432. They are significant as revealing the development of linear perspective in early Italian Renaissance painting, and are unusual as a major secular commission.

Salon Carre: Room 708, First Floor, Denon Wing, Louvre, Paris 75001, France. Tel: +33 1 40 20 50 50. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, 9 AM- 6 PM (until 10 PM on Wednesday and Friday evenings).

The Louvre has three entrances: the main entrance at the pyramid, an entrance from the Carrousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and an entrance at the Porte des Lions (near the western end of the Denon wing).

Admission is free, from October to March, on the first Sunday of every month. Still and video photography is permitted for private, noncommercial use only in the galleries housing the permanent collection. The use of flash or other means of artificial lighting is prohibited. Photography and filming are not permitted in the temporary exhibition galleries.

How To Get There: the Louvre can be reached via Metro lines 1 and 7, station Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre Métro or the Louvre-Rivoli stations. By bus, take No. 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95 as well as the touristic Paris l’Open Tour. By car, there is an underground parking reachable by Avenue du Général Lemonier, every day from 7 AM – 11 PM.

Louvre Museum – The Grand Gallery (Paris, France)

Grand Gallery (Grande Galerie)

The jaw-dropping Grand Gallery (Grande Galerie), built along the River Seine, is one of the most beautiful hallways and the most famous room of the Louvre.

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Paintings along the hallway

This new piece of the palace was built from 1595 to 1610 by Henry IV, King of France  (initially 460 m. long at the time, it was the longest edifice of its kind in the world), which was part of the Grand Dessein he saw completed.

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Statue of Diana of Versailles, a partially restored Roman marble copy of a lost Greek bronze original, of the Goddess of the Hunt with a deer, attributed to Leochares ( ca. 325 BC)

When he was a child, future King Louis XIII was playing and initiated to fox hunting there. It wasn’t completed until the reign of Louis XV, about 50 years later.  During the 17th century, it was used for the “scrofula ceremony,” during which the Sun King, Louis XIV, laid his hand on the sick.

The Fortune Teller (Caravaggio)

The author beside The Fortune Teller, a painting by Italian Baroque artist Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, exists in two versions.  The first, from 1594, is now in the Musei Capitolini in Rome. The second, from 1595, in the Louvre museum, was painted by Caravaggio for Cardinal Francesco Maria Del Monte.  Copied from the original 1594 version, it had certain changes. The undifferentiated background becomes a real wall broken by the shadows of a half-drawn curtain and a window sash, and the figures more completely fill the space and defining it in three dimensions. The light is more radiant, and the cloth of the foppishly-dressed boy’s (model is believed to be Caravaggio’s companion, the Sicilian painter Mario Minniti) doublet and the gypsy girl’s sleeves more finely textured. The dupe becomes more childlike and more innocently vulnerable, the girl less wary-looking, leaning in towards him, more in command of the situation. Close inspection of the painting reveals what the young man has failed to notice – the girl is removing his ring as she gently strokes his hand while reading his palm.

On November 8, 1793, in the midst of the Reign of Terror, the Musee Central des Artes  was created and the Grande Galerie was officially opened.

La Belle Jardinière (Raphael)

La Belle Jardinière, also known as Madonna and Child with Saint John the Baptist, painted by the Italian High Renaissance artist Raphael during his stay in Florence between 1507 and 1508, was commissioned by the Sienese patrician Fabrizio Sergardi and shows Mary, Christ and the young John the Baptist.  Raphael’s use of contrasting light and dark, and the relaxed, informal pose of the Madonna illustrates Leonardo da Vinci’s influence. Because of the harmony and balance of the picture together with the high quality of elements present, this 48 in × 31.5 in (122 cm × 80 cm) paintings is one of Raphael’s famous works.

During the reign of  Louis XVI of France (1754-1793), this gallery was planned to be the location of the future royal “Museum.” Charles-Claude Flahaut de la Billaderie, comte d’Angiviller, helped build and plan the Grande Galerie and continued to acquire major works of art.

Portrait of Baldassare Castiglione (Raphael)

The author beside the Portrait of Baldassare Castiglione, another oil painting attributed to Raphael (1514–1515), is considered one of the great portraits of the Renaissance and has an enduring influence. It depicts the diplomat and humanist Baldassare Castiglione, Raphael’s friend, who is considered a quintessential example of the High Renaissance gentleman.  The painting was acquired by Louis XIV in 1661 from the heirs of Cardinal Mazarin.

The Virgin of the Rocks (Leonardo da Vinci)

The Virgin of the Rocks (sometimes called the Madonna of the Rocks), a  painting by Leonardo da Vinci, shows the Madonna and Child Jesus with the infant John the Baptist and an angel, in a rocky setting which gives the painting its name. This painting is regarded as a perfect example of Leonardo’s “sfumato” technique.

For many years, the area beneath the Grande Galerie served as artists’ studios and workshops. The engaged columns along the sides were added during the Empire by Charles Percier and Pierre-Francois-Leonard Fontaine, Napoleon I’s favorite architects.

Death of the Virgin (Caravaggio)

Cheska and Kyle beside The Death of the Virgin, a painting completed by Italian Baroque master Caravaggio in 1606, was commissioned by papal lawyer Laerzio Cherubini for his chapel in the Carmelite church of Santa Maria della Scala in Trastevere, Rome . The figures are nearly life-sized. The Virgin Mary, the painting’s central theme, lies reclined, clad in a simple red dress. Caravaggio completely abandons the iconography traditionally used to indicate the holiness of the Virgin.  Her cast-off body, with lolling head, hanging arm and swollen, spread feet, depict a raw and realistic view of the Virgin’s mortal remains, with nothing of the respectful representation found in devotional paintings.

Shortened by a third during the Second Empire to build the Flore Wing, it now houses collections of Italian painting dating back to around the 13th century (1250-1800).

Oedipus and the Sphinx (Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres)

Jandy beside Venus and Cupid with a Satyr (c. 1528), a 5 cm. × 125.5 cm. (74.2 in. × 49.4 in.) painting by the Italian late Renaissance artist Antonio Allegri da Correggio, depicts Venus sleeping with her son Eros. Behind them, a satyr is caught while discovering the goddess.

Mars and Venus (Andrea Mantegna)

Mars and Venus (Andrea Mantegna)

The Great Gallery now houses one of the world most prestigious Italian Renaissance painting collection, from the Quattrocento (early Italian Renaissance) to High Renaissance and Mannerism with masterpieces of the most famous artists such as:

Mysteries of Christ’s Passion (Les Mystères de la Passion du Christ) , by Italian Renaissance painter Antonio Campi, is an oil on canvas created in 1569

This was a gallery that we “saw” quickly in a rush on our way to the State Room (Salle des Etats) to see the Mona Lisa on her stand alone wall. Later, Jandy and I would explore the Grand Gallery in detail.

Portrait of Baldassare Castiglione (Raphael)

Portrait of Baldassare Castiglione, another oil painting attributed to Raphael (1514–1515), is considered one of the great portraits of the Renaissance and has an enduring influence. It depicts the diplomat and humanist Baldassare Castiglione, Raphael’s friend, who is considered a quintessential example of the High Renaissance gentleman.  The painting was acquired by Louis XIV in 1661 from the heirs of Cardinal Mazarin.

Divided into two by a central tribune, this immense hall originally connecting the Louvre to the Tuileries Palace and is more than a quarter of a mile long and one hundred feet wide.

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Noli Me Tangere by Agnolo Bronzino, an 289 cm. (113.7 in.) by 194 cm. (76.3 in.) oil on poplar wood, was created in 1561 in the Mannerism (Late Renaissance) style.

Louvre Museum: 75001 Paris, France.  Tel: +33 1 40 20 50 50. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, 9 AM- 6 PM (until 10 PM on Wednesday and Friday evenings).

The Louvre has three entrances: the main entrance at the pyramid, an entrance from the Carrousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and an entrance at the Porte des Lions (near the western end of the Denon wing).

Admission is free, from October to March, on the first Sunday of every month. Still and video photography is permitted for private, noncommercial use only in the galleries housing the permanent collection. The use of flash or other means of artificial lighting is prohibited. Photography and filming are not permitted in the temporary exhibition galleries. 

How To Get There: the Louvre can be reached via Metro lines 1 and 7, station Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre Métro or the Louvre-Rivoli stations. By bus, take No. 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95 as well as the touristic Paris l’Open Tour. By car, there is an underground parking reachable by Avenue du Général Lemonier, every day from 7 AM – 11 PM.

Louvre Museum – The State Room (Paris, France)

Cheska and Kyle at the State Room (Salle des Etats).  Behid them is the Mona Lisa

The State Room (Salle des États), the Louvre Museum‘s most visited room, is the customary home of  Italian artist Leonardo da Vinci’s (the Louvre holds the largest collection of his work) Mona Lisa (also known as the Gioconda, it was painted between 1503 and 1506), the most famous portrait painting of the world which anybody that visits the Louvre Museum for the first time would want to see as if this is the only work that has to be seen.

Actually, some visitors only buy a Louvre ticket just to have a quick glance at the Mona Lisa and to take a selfie. If you enter Le Louvre by the Pyramide you will have to follow a long and slow way to reach the Mona Lisa in the 1st floor,Denon Wing because the stairs passing by the Samothrace Victory statue is usually crowded with visitors. The painting is kind of small, being only 77 cm. × 53 cm. (30 in. × 21 in.).

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The Mona Lisa (or in French La Joconde, or in Italian La Gioconda) was on permanent display here since 1797.

Francesco del Giocondo, a nobleman, cloth merchant and politician, ordered the painting to thank his wife  Lisa Gherardini del Giocondo for giving him two children.  Leonardo used the sfumato painting technique, a slow process where the paint is applied in thin layers. After painting one layer on a thin white Lombardy poplar panel, Leonardo da Vinci waited for it to dry, repeating this procedure several times until the painting was completed.

Jandy with the massive Wedding at Cana (or The Wedding Feast at Cana) in the background. An oil painting by the late-Renaissance or Mannerist Italian painter Paolo Veronese, it is the largest painting in that museum’s collection. The piece was commissioned in 1562 by the Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice, Italy, and completed in fifteen months by the year 1563. It hung in the refectory of the monastery for 235 years, until it was plundered by Napoléon in 1797 and shipped to Paris. The scene depicts a mixture of contemporary and antique details.

That is the main reason why it took him three years to finish it. The painting, characterized by an unprecedented formal audacity, retains an aura of mystery that, generation after generation, still continues to fascinate the crowds of visitors that come to admire Mona Lisa’s famously enigmatic smile.

Mythological Couple (Paris Bordone)

The painting only became widely famous in 1911 when, while working at the Louvre, Italian carpenter  Vincenzo Peruggia stole the canvas, smuggling it out under his overalls. Mistakenly thinking that she had been looted by Napoleon (Leonardo actually had taken the painting with him to France, finishing it there in 1516, three years before his death, before it passed into the collections of King Francis I of France and his successors), like so many other Italian masterworks in the Louvre’s vast collection, he wanted to bring her back to her homeland.

Jandy with Supper at Emmaus of Italian Renaissance painter Paolo Veronese in the background. This 242 cm. x 416 cm. oil painting, dated c. 1559, is the artist’s first large religious work.

Two years later, the painting resurfaced after Perugia tried to sell it to Giovanni Poggi, director of the Uffizi Gallery in  Florence where he believed the painting belonged in. Giovanni warned the authorities about the situation. On January 4, 1914, it was returned to the museum.

The author beside The Pastoral Concert of Italian Renaissance master Titian. This 105 cm. × 137 cm. (41 in. × 54 in.) oil painting ( 1509) portrays three young people (a naked woman and two men dressed in contemporary costumes) on a lawn, playing with each other.  Next to them is a naked standing woman pouring water from a marble basin. In the wide background is a shepherd and, among the vegetation, a far landscape.

The fragile, very rarely handled painting last traveled in 1974 to Russia and Japan, having crossed the Atlantic in 1964 to be shown in the United States despite the fierce protests of the Louvre’s curators. It was moved between 1992 and 1995 and again from 2001 to 2005 during another round of renovations.  Daily, about 15,000 to 20,000 visitors seek out the painting.

The Crucifixion (Paolo Veronese)

The Salle des Etats, designed by Lefuel, was built to accommodate the major legislative sessions presided over by Napoleon III from 1859. In 1878, the hall became part of the museum. The original decorations have disappeared, but the recent refurbishment by Lorenzo Piqueras has provided a new setting for the Mona Lisa.

The Entombment of Christ (Titian)

Opposite the Mona Lisa, we also saw The Wedding Feast at Cana.  Painted by Paolo Veronese, this huge (6.77 x 9.94 m) painting depicts Jesus Christ’s first miracle, where he, surrounded by 130 feast-goers, turns water to wine. These 2 paintings steal the most of the attention, but they are not the only masterpiece in the room as the room is also home to a number of wonderful Venetian Renaissance paintings.

NOTE:

On July 17, 2019, the Mona Lisa was transferred to the adjoining Galerie Médicis (Room 801, Level 2, Richelieu wing) so that renovation work in the Salle des États can start.

A new secure and air-conditioned showcase has been installed (the Mona Lisa is kept at a constant temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit and a hydrometry of 50%).

The 500-year-old painting remained there, protected by bulletproof glass in its temporary home, until the work was completed in the beginning of October just before a blockbuster Leonardo da Vinci exhibition (marking the 500th anniversary of the artist’s death in Amboise) opened on October 24.

The exhibition features a grouping 162 works including loans by Queen Elizabeth II of Britain from the Royal Collection, the British Museum, the Hermitage of Saint Petersburg and the Vatican. However, the painting will remain in its spot and will not be part of the special exhibition.

Supper at Emmaus (Titian)

The State Room: Room 711, First Floor, Denon Wing, Louvre, 75001 Paris, France. Tel: +33 1 40 20 50 50. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, 9 AM- 6 PM (until 10 PM on Wednesday and Friday evenings).

The Louvre has three entrances: the main entrance at the pyramid, an entrance from the Carrousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and an entrance at the Porte des Lions (near the western end of the Denon wing).

Admission is free, from October to March, on the first Sunday of every month. Still and video photography is permitted for private, noncommercial use only in the galleries housing the permanent collection. The use of flash or other means of artificial lighting is prohibited. Photography and filming are not permitted in the temporary exhibition galleries.

 How To Get There: the Louvre can be reached via Metro lines 1 and 7, station Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre Métro or the Louvre-Rivoli stations. By bus, take No. 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95 as well as the touristic Paris l’Open Tour. By car, there is an underground parking reachable by Avenue du Général Lemonier, every day from 7 AM – 11 PM.

 

 

Louvre Museum (Paris, France)

Louvre Museum

Louvre Museum

Come morning of our second day in Paris, after breakfast at our hotel, we walked towards the Gare de l’Est Metro entrance  where we took the Metro to the Louvre Museum (or simply the Louvre), one of the world’s largest museums and a central landmark and historic monument of the city.  It was already raining  when we arrived at the Louvre.   Located on the Right Bank of the Seine River, in the 1st arrondissement (ward), we arrived early in the main courtyard (Cour Napoléon).

L-R: Jandy, Grace, Kyle, Cheska and Manny

L-R: Jandy, Grace, Kyle, Cheska and Manny.  The Louvre Pyramid is in the background

However, lines were already starting to form near the 21.6 m. (71-ft.) high Louvre Pyramid (Pyramide du Louvre), a large  pyramid of glass  and metal  designed by the late Chinese architect Ieoh .Ming (I.M.) Pei.  Its square base has sides of 35 m. (115 ft) and consists of 603 rhombus-shaped and 70 triangular glass segments. Completed in 1989, it is surrounded by three smaller pyramids. The large pyramid serves as the main entrance.

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The main courtyard (Cour Napoléon)

The main courtyard (Cour Napoléon)

The museum is housed in the Louvre Palace, originally built as a fortress in the late 12th century under Philip II. Remnants of the fortress are still visible in the crypt in the basement of the museum. Whether that spot was the first building is not known.  It is possible that Philip modified an existing tower.  The remains of the medieval fortress and moat have been excavated and preserved, and can be seen today on the underground level of the Sully Wing, on the way to the department of Egyptian antiquities.

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Remnants of the late 12th century fortress

Remnants of the late 12th century fortress

The building was altered frequently throughout the Middle Ages and was extended many times to form the present Louvre Palace. In the 14th century, Charles V converted the building into a residence and, in 1546, Francis I renovated the site in French Renaissance style and acquired what would become the nucleus of the Louvre’s holdings (his acquisitions including Leonardo da Vinci‘s Mona Lisa).

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In 1682, Louis XIV chose the Palace of Versailles as his residence and constructions slowed.  However, the move permitted the Louvre to be used primarily as a place to display the royal collection, including, from 1692, a collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. It was also used as a residence for artists.

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In 1692, the building was occupied by the Académie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres and the Académie Royale de Peinture et de Sculpture which, in 1699, held the first of a series of salons. The Académie remained at the Louvre for 100 years. During the French Revolution, the National Assembly decreed that the Louvre should be used as a public museum to display the nation’s masterpieces and, on August 10, 1793 (the first anniversary of the monarchy’s demise), opened with an exhibition of 537 paintings and 184 objects of art, three quarters of which were derived from the royal collections, and the remainder from confiscated émigrés and Church property (biens nationaux).

Statue of Louis IV

Statue of Louis IV

On May 1796, the museum was closed due to structural deficiencies but was reopened on July 14, 1801, arranged chronologically and with new lighting and columns. Under Napoleon I, the collection was increased with many Spanish, Austrian, Dutch, Vatican (including Laocoön and His Sons and the Apollo Belvedere)and Italian (including the Horses of Saint Mark) works seized by his armies (returned to their original owners after Napoleon’s abdication) and the museum  was renamed the Musée Napoléon in 1803. During the reigns of Louis XVIII and Charles X, the collection was further increased and, during the Second French Empire, the museum gained 20,000 pieces.

The lobby underneath the pyramid

The lobby underneath the pyramid

With an area of over 60,600 sq. m. (652,300 sq. ft.), the Louvre exhibits a collection of nearly 35,000 objects, from prehistory to the 21st century, divided among 8 curatorial departments – Egyptian AntiquitiesNear Eastern Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan, and Roman AntiquitiesIslamic ArtSculpture; Decorative Arts; Paintings; Prints and Drawings.  You can’t possibly see them all, so you have to navigate to see what you want to see in the world’s most visited museum (the Louvre received over 9.7 million visitors in 2012).  Since the Third Republic, its holdings have grown steadily through donations and bequests.

Check out “Louvre Museum – Painting Collection” and “Louvre Museum – Greek, Etruscan and Roman Department

Jandy and Grace at the main courtyard

Jandy and Grace at the main courtyard

Louvre Museum: 75001 Paris, France.  Tel: +33 1 40 20 50 50. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, 9 AM- 6 PM (until 10 PM on Wednesday and Friday evenings).

The Louvre has three entrances: the main entrance at the pyramid, an entrance from the Carrousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and an entrance at the Porte des Lions (near the western end of the Denon wing).

Admission is free, from October to March, on the first Sunday of every month. Still and video photography is permitted for private, noncommercial use only in the galleries housing the permanent collection.The use of flash or other means of artificial lighting is prohibited. Photography and filming are not permitted in the temporary exhibition galleries.

How To Get There: the Louvre can be reached via Metro lines 1 and 7, station Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre Métro or the Louvre-Rivoli stations. By bus, take No. 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95 as well as the touristic Paris l’Open Tour. By car, there is an underground parking reachable by Avenue du Général Lemonier, every day from 7 AM – 11 PM.

Musee d’Orsay (Paris, France)

The final leg of our first day tour of Paris was to be some art immersion at the Musee d’Orsay, located on the left bank of the Seine.  From Les Invalides, we walked the short 1.4 km. distance to the museum via Rue de Varenne and Rue de Bellechasse.  This museum is housed in the former Gare d’Orsay, a Beaux-Arts  railway station, designed by architects Lucien MagneÉmile Bénard and Victor Laloux, and built between 1898 and 1900 for the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Orléans and finished in time for the 1900 Exposition Universelle.

Musee d’Orsay

Musee d’Orsay

The terminus for the railways of southwestern France . by 1939 the station’s short platforms had become unsuitable for the longer trains that had come to be used for mainline services and, after 1939, it was used for suburban services and part of it became a mailing centre during World War II.  It was then used as a set for several films (such as Franz Kafka‘s The Trial adapted by Orson Welles), as a haven for the RenaudBarrault Theatre Company and for auctioneers, while the Hôtel Drouot was being rebuilt.

Grace, Cheska, Kyle and Manny making their way to the museum

Grace, Cheska, Kyle and Manny making their way to the museum

In 1978, the station was put on the list of Historic Monuments and the Directorate of the Museums of France then decided to turn the station into a museum that would bridge the gap between the Louvre and the National Museum of Modern Art at the Georges Pompidou Centre. That same year, a competition was organized to design the new museum and ACT Architecture, a team of three young architects (Pierre Colboc, Renaud Bardon and Jean-Paul Philippon), were awarded the contract which involved creating 20,000 sq. m. of new floor space on four floors.

The museum's interior

The museum’s interior

The construction work was carried out by Bouygues and, in 1981, the Italian architect, Gae Aulenti was chosen to design the interior including the museum‘s internal arrangement, decoration, furniture and fittings. In July 1986, the museum was finally ready to receive its exhibits and it took 6 months to install the 2,000 or so paintings, 600 sculptures and other works, many of which were formerly exhibited at the Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume. In December 1986, the museum was officially opened by Pres. François Mitterrand.

Upper concourse sculpture gallery

Upper concourse sculpture gallery

The museum now houses the largest collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist French art masterpieces in the world (mainly dating from 1848 to 1915). Its painting collection includes  works by  MonetManetDegasRenoirCézanne, SeuratSisleyPaul Gauguin and Vincent van Gogh.

Asia, Africa, North America, South America and Oceania

Asia, Africa, North America, South America and Oceania

At the square, next to the museum, are six bronze allegorical sculptural groups in a row, all originally produced for the Exposition Universelle (1878).   They are  “South America “ (Aimé Millet), “Asia” (Alexandre Falguière), “Oceania” (Mathurin Moreau), “Europe” (Alexandre Schoenewerk), “North America” (Ernest-Eugène Hiolle) and “Africa” (Eugène Delaplanche).

Young Greeks at a Cockfight (Jean-Leon Gerome, 1846)

Young Greeks at a Cockfight (Jean-Leon Gerome, 1846)

Major painters and their works represented include:

The Birth Of Venus (Alexandre Cabanel)

The Birth Of Venus (Alexandre Cabanel)

The Bellelli Family (Edgar Degas)

The Bellelli Family (Edgar Degas)

The Source (Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, 1856)

The Source (Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, 1856)

Homage to Cézanne (Maurice Denis)

Homage to Cézanne (Maurice Denis)

The Birth of Venus (William Bouguereau, 1879)

The Birth of Venus (William Bouguereau, 1879)

Major sculptors includes François RudeJules CavelierJean-Baptiste CarpeauxAuguste RodinPaul GauguinCamille ClaudelSarah Bernhardt and Honoré Daumier.

The Dance (Jean Baptiste Carpeaux, 1895)

The Dance (Jean Baptiste Carpeaux, 1895)

Also featured are works of Ernest Christophe, Antonin Carles, Alfred Charles Lenoir, Emile-Antoine Bourdelle, Louis Ernest Barrias, Joseph Bernard, Alexandre Falguière, Antoine-Auguste Préault, Antoine Louis Barye, Henri Chapu, Aristide Maillol, Clara Rilke-Westhoff, Auguste Clesinger, Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi (best known for designing the Statue of Liberty), Albert Carrier-Belleuse, Jules Salmson, David d’Angers, Andre-Joseph Allar, Jean Dampt, Charles Degeorge, Denys Puech, Paul Dubois. Jean-Léon Gérôme and Jean-Baptiste Hugues,

Ugolino (Auguste Rodin)

Ugolino (Auguste Rodin)

Aside from paintings and sculptures, it also holds collections of architecture, furniture, decorative arts and photography.

Furniture exhibit

Furniture exhibit

Musee d’Orsay: 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007 Paris, France. Tel: +33 1 40 49 48 14. Website www.musee-orsay.fr. Open Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, 9 AM to 6 PM, Thursdays, 9:30 AM to 9:45 PM. Rooms begin closing 30 minutes before museum closing time, The museum is closed on Monday and the following French holidays: December 25 and May 1. Admission (adults): €11. Reduce price of €8.50 for 18-25 years who are not nationals of the European Union.  Admission is free for those under 18 and 18-25 years old from European Union.

How to Get There: Via Subway 12, stop at Solferino, for RER C, stop at Musée d’Orsay, Bus 24, 63, 68, 69, 73, 83, 84 and 94,

L’Hôtel des Invalides (Paris, France)

L'Hotel des Invalides

L’Hotel des Invalides

After our pilgrimage to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal, we made the somewhat long, 1.8-km. walk, via Rue de Sèvres and Boulevard des Invalides, to the National Residence of the Invalids, also called L’Hôtel des Invalides.  While some distance away, we could already espy its elegant golden cupola.

Check out “Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal

Main entrance

Main entrance

One of the most prestigious monuments in Paris, this complex of buildings, in the 7th arrondissement, contains museums (Musée de l’Armée, the military museum of the Army of France, the Musée des Plans-Reliefs and the Musée d’Histoire Contemporaine) and monuments, all relating to the military history of France, as well as a hospital and a retirement home for war veterans (invalides), the building’s original purpose.

Left wing

Left wing

The building retained its primary function as a retirement home and hospital for military veterans until the early twentieth century. Because of its location and significance, the Invalides was also the scene of several key events in French history.

Right wing

Right wing

L’Hôtel des Invalides had its beginnings in 1670 when Louis XIV, by an order dated November 24, initiated the hôpital des invalides, a home and hospital for aged and unwell soldiers. Designed by architect Libéral Bruant, it was built on the then suburban plain of Grenelle (plaine de Grenelle) and, by the time it was completed in 1676, the  front facade facing the Seine River was 196 m. (643 ft.) long.

L-R- Kyle, Grace, Cheska, the author and Jandy

L-R: Grace, Kyle, Cheska, the author and Jandy

The complex had 15 courtyards, the largest being the cour d’honneur (“court of honor”) which was used for military parades. The veterans’ chapel, known as Église Saint-Louis des Invalides, was also designed by the aged Bruant, assisted by Jules Hardouin Mansart, and finished in 1679.

The Domed Church

The Domed Church

Louis XIV’s separate private royal chapel, referred to as the Église du Dôme (Domed Church), was designed and built by Mansart and was completed in 1708. One of the triumphs of French Baroque architecture, this royal chapel is centrally placed to dominate the court of honor.

The chapel's gold-plated cupola

The chapel’s gold-plated cupola

Its Baroque dome was inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and was built between 1677 and 1706 to glorify Louis XIV, the monarchy and his armies. Mansart raised its drum, with an attic storey over its main cornice, and employed the paired columns motif in his more complicated rhythmic theme.  On 14 July 1789, during the French Revolution, Les Invalides was stormed by Parisian rioters and the cannons and muskets stored in its cellars were seized for use against the Bastille later that same day.  The royal chapel was later renamed as the Temple de Mars.

The chapel's facade

The chapel’s facade

During the reign of Napoleon Bonaparte, it became a military pantheon with the installation of the tomb of Henri de la Tour d’Auvergne, Vicomte de Turenne (better known as Turenne), one of the most famous marshals of France, in 1800 and, on May 26, 1808, had the heart (his other remains were scattered during the French Revolution) of Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban , designer of Louis XIV’s military fortifications, transferred, from his grave in Bazoches, to a mausoleum erected opposite Turenne’s, both under the dome.

The Corithian columns and pediment at the upper level

The Corithian columns and pediment at the upper level

On December 15, 1840, remains of Napoleon himself was brought back to France, from the island of St. Helena  (an event known as le retour des cendres or “return of the Ashes”and arranged by King Louis-Philippe) and first buried in the Chapelle Saint-Jérôme  (Chapel of St. Jerome) in the Invalides until his final resting place, designed by Louis Visconti, was finished. On April 2, 1861, Napoleon was finally interred in a porphyry sarcophagus in the circular crypt under the dome.

The Domed Chapel's interior

The Domed Chapel’s interior

On January 5, 1895, the degradation of Capt. Alfred Dreyfus was held before the main building, while his subsequent rehabilitation ceremony took place on July 21, 1906 in a courtyard of the complex. During the second half of the 20th century, after the destruction of small back buildings and the creation of a peripheral gap, the entire site of the Hôtel National des Invalides was opened to the public.

The gilded dome

The gilded dome

In 1981, a huge restoration project, under the instigation of an interdepartmental commission co-directed by Ministries of Defense and Culture, was undertaken to restore the former splendor of this exceptional site.  In 1989, 12 kgs. (20 lbs.) of gold (550,000 leaves) were used to regild the dome and details at the walls for the bicentenary of the French Revolution.

The baldacchino above the high altar

The baldacchino above the high altar

The Greek Cross-shaped Les Invalides has a beautiful facade with Doric and Corinthian columns, two colossal marble statues of Charlemagne (by Charles Antoine Coysevox) on the right and St. Louis holding the Crown of Thorns (by Nicolas Coustou) on the left decorate the niches of the lower levels and on the level above, on the corner of the balustrade, stand the Four Virtues (also done by Coysevox) – Strength, Justice, Temperance and Prudence. Two colossal marble sculptures flank the entrance to l’Église du Dôme. Inside are 9 chapels and niches plus a  high altar area covered by a baldachin. The sides each have 3 chapels where the tombs are.

The heavy bronze door

The heavy bronze door leading to Napoleon’s crypt

Upon entering, I was awed by the interior of the 107 m. (351 ft.) high, ribbed and hemispherical dome, the second tallest in Paris, after the Pantheon, and another unmissable monument in the Parisian landscape.  Painted by  Charles de La FosseCharles Le Brun’s disciple, and completed in 1705, its main feature was the Baroque illusion of space (sotto in su) when seen from below. The 50 ft. diameter symbolic painting on the cupola and the pendentives depicts St. King Louis IX wearing his royal robes, entering into glory, amidst angels, and giving to Christ the sword he used to triumph over Christianity’s enemies.

Check out “Pantheon (Paris)

Balustrade overlooking Napoleon's crypt

Balustrade overlooking Napoleon’s crypt

Underneath the lavishly-decorated dome is a balustrade with a large space that looks down into the crypt where Napoleon’s huge porphyry tomb resides. We entered the crypt via a staircase behind the altar that leads to a heavy bronze door forged from cannons taken during the Battle of Austerlitz.  The door is flanked by two statues and above the lintel is an inscription extracted from Napoleon’s will (“I wish my ashes to rest on the banks of the Seine among the people of France whom I so much loved“).

Napoleon's sarcophagus

Napoleon’s sarcophagus

Built on a pedestal of green granite from  the Vosges Region, the sarcophagus was sculpted from blocks of red quartzite from Russia and is surrounded by a laurel crown and inscriptions referring to the Empire’s great victories. Inside the sarcophagus is a nest of six coffins: one made of soft iron, another of mahogany, two others of lead, one of ebony and finally the last one of oak. Napoleon is dressed in his Colonel’s uniform (of the cavalry of the Guard) which bears his sash of the Légion d’Honneur. His hat rests on his legs.

The author besides Napoleon's Tomb

The author besides Napoleon’s Tomb

Around the tomb and mounted up against the pillars of the crypt are 12 “Victories,” symbolizing Napoleon’s military campaigns, sculpted by James Pradier. Inscribed on the polychrome marble floor are his 8 famous victories – Austerlitz, Friedland, Jena, Marengo, Moscow, Pyramids, Rivoli and Wagram. Within the circular gallery are a set of 10 white marble bas-reliefs sculpted by Pierre-Charles Simart, depicting the main achievements of his reign – pacification of the nation, administrative centralization, State Council, Civil Code, Concordat, Imperial University, court of accounts, code of commerce, Major Works and the Legion of Honor.

Napoleon II's Tomb

Napoleon II’s Tomb and the statue of Napoleon I clad in the symbols of empire

Halfway along the gallery is a vault containing the coffin of his son Napoleon II (though his heart and intestines remained in Vienna), the King of Rome also known as l’Aiglon, transferred here on December 15, 1940, and placed under a marble slab in the crypt on December 18, 1969. Over the tomb stands a statue, by Simart, of Napoleon as a Roman emperor clad in the symbols of the Empire.

Jerome Napoleon's Tomb

Tomb of Jerome Napoleon, the youngest brother of Napoleon I who reigned as Jerome I (formally Hieronymus Napoleon in German), King of Westphalia, between 1807 and 1813. From 1816 onward, he bore the title of Prince of Montfort. After 1848, when his nephew, Louis Napoleon, became President of the French Second Republic, he served in several official roles, including Marshal of France from 1850 onward, and President of the Senate in 1852.

Two side chapels contain the tombs of Joseph Bonaparte (Chapel of St. Augustine) and Jérôme Bonaparte (Chapel of St. Jerome ), the eldest and youngest brothers, respectively, of Napoleon.

Joseph Bonaparte's Tomb

Tomb of Joseph Bonaparte, the older brother of Napoleon Bonaparte who made him King of Naples (1806–1808, as Giuseppe I), and later King of Spain (1808–1813, as José I). After the fall of Napoleon, Joseph styled himself Comte de Survilliers.

The gilt bees on the walls of the chapel of Saint-Jerôme serve to remind visitors that the Emperor’s coffin lay here while the crypt was being built.  Several military officers who served under Napoleon (Henri Gratien, Comte Bertrand and Geraud Duroc) are also buried at Les Invalides, all alongside Napoleon’s tomb.

Henri Bertrand's Tomb

Tomb of Henri Bertrand (March 28, 1773 – January 31, 1844), a French general life whose life was closely bound up with that of Napoleon, who had the fullest confidence in him, honoring him in 1808 with the title of count and at the end of 1813, with the title of Grand Marshal of the Palace. During the expedition to Egypt, Napoleon named him colonel (1798), then brigadier-general, and after the Battle of Austerlitz his aide-de-camp.

Geraud Duroc's Tomb

Tomb of Geraud Duroc (October 25, 1772 – May 23, 1813), a French general noted for his association with Napoleon. His devotion to him was rewarded by complete confidence. He became first aide-de-camp (1798), general of brigade (1800), and governor of the Tuileries. After the battle of Marengo, he was sent on missions to Vienna, St Petersburg (Russia), Stockholm and Copenhagen. He also served as Grand Marshal of the Palace. After the Battle of Austerlitz, where he commanded the grenadiers and was employed in a series of important negotiations with Frederick William III of Prussia, with the elector of Saxony (December 1806), in the incorporation of certain states in the Confederation of the Rhine, and in the conclusion of the armistice of Znaim (July 1809). In 1808, he was created duc de Frioul.

Aside from Turenne, other Marshals of France buried here include Thomas Bugeaud (conqueror of Algeria); François Certain Canrobert (commanded the III Army Corps in Lombardy in 1859 during the Second Italian War of Independence, distinguishing himself at Magenta and Solferino); Ferdinand Foch (Allied Supreme Commander in the First World War); Philippe Leclerc de Hauteclocque  (commander of the famous 2nd Armored Division during World War II); Hubert Lyautey (dubbed the “Maker of Morocco” and the French empire builder) and Jean de Lattre de Tassigny ( commander of the French First Army during World War II and later commander in the First Indochina War).

Ferdinand Foch's Tomb

Tomb of Ferdinand Foch (October 2, 1851 – March 20, 1929), a French general and military theorist who served as the Supreme Allied Commander during the First World War, successfully coordinating the French, British and American efforts into a coherent whole.  Deftly handling his strategic reserves, he stopped the German offensive and launched a war-winning counterattack.

Army captain Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle (author of France‘s national anthem, La Marseillaise), Antoine Marie-Roger de Saint-Exupery (author of “The Little Prince”) and Pierre Auguste Roques (founder of the French Air Force and Minister of War in 1916) are also buried here.

Tomb of Hubert Lyautey

Tomb of Hubert Lyautey (November 17, 1854 – July 27, 1934), a French Army general and colonial administrator who, after serving in Indochina and Madagascar, became the first French Resident-General in Morocco from 1912 to 1925. Early in 1917, he served briefly as Minister of War and, from 1921, was a Marshal of France. He was dubbed the French empire builder and, in 1931, made the cover of Time.

Vauban’s monument, in the Chapel of St.-Theresa, replaced by a black marble coffin made by the sculptor Antoine Etex in 1808, depicts Vauban semi-recumbent, holding a compass and meditating on his writings. He is surrounded by the veiled figure of Science and the figure of War wearing a helmet. On top of the coffin is an obelisk surrounded by flags and standards. On the base is an inscription and a bas-relief referring to Vauban’s project for a royal tithe and celebrating the political and reformatory aspect of Vauban’s work.

Vauban's Tomb

Tomb of Sebastien le Preste de Vauban (May 1, 1633 – March 30, 1707), a French military engineer who served under Louis XIV who is generally considered the greatest engineer of his time, and one of the most important in Western military history. His principles for fortifications were widely used for nearly 100 years, while aspects of his offensive tactics remained in use until the mid-twentieth century.

Turenne’s monument shows the Marshal General of France, under Louis XIV, expiring in the arms of Immortality, who crowns him with laurels, as she lifts him to Heaven. At the marshal’s feet is an eagle, representing the Holy Roman Empire, over which he had several victories.

Turenne's Tomb

Tomb of Turenne (September 11, 1611 – July 27, 1675), a French general and one of only six Marshals to have been promoted Marshal General of France. The most illustrious member of the La Tour d’Auvergne family, his military exploits over his five-decade career earned him a reputation as one of the greatest military commanders in modern history.

From the Dome Chapel, we moved on to the main courtyard which is is the central area of the Hôtel National des Invalides. Many events unfolded here and a large part of the artillery collections of the Army Museum  (musée de l’armée)  is displayed here. The Army Museum has one of the most impressive collections of artillery pieces. It had its beginnings in 1872 when the musée d’artillerie (Artillery Museum), whose collections were gathered together during the Revolution, was located within the building.  Later, in 1896, it was joined by the musée historique des armées (Historical Museum of the Armies). In 1905, the two institutions were merged to form the present musée de l’armée.

The main courtyard

The main courtyard

At the Main Courtyard, we were presented an exceptional array of 60 French classical bronze cannons, jewels of the artillery collections of the Army Museum, plus a dozen howitzers and mortars. Tracing 200 years of the history of French field artillery, we discovered how these pieces were manufactured, their roles and the epic of great French artillerymen.

An array of French classical cannons

An array of French classical cannons

The first models of French classical cannons, along with a few adaptations, were developed by the Keller brothers in 1666. These highly popular, large-caliber cannons were used in sieges against fortified towns during the wars of Louis XIV and made the successes of Vauban possible.

French classical cannon

In 1732, a royal ordinance laid down by regulations that cannons be decorated with heraldic and mythological ornamentations. A series of 30 of these prestigious cannons are on display.

Gribeauval cannon (1780s)

Gribeauval cannon (1780s)

From 1764, French classical cannons were replaced by cannons of the Gribeauval system  (named after its creator) This new, easier to handle and better organized artillery excelled during the revolutionary and imperial wars. Napoleon Bonaparte, who trained as an artilleryman, was able to put it to wonderful use, notably during the two Italian campaigns and the battles of Friedland and Wagram. From 1825 onwards, the Valée systems succeeded the Gribeauval system. The cannons of the two systems were more functional and had fewer decorations than French classical cannons.

12 pounder Napoleon cannon

12 pounder Napoleon cannon

Eight mortars, made for the sieges of the revolutionary and imperial wars, were also on display while, on exhibit at the corners of the courtyard, are two large howitzers, designed to bombard Cadiz, when the French army besieged this city in 1810. The howitzers could fire shells from a distance of nearly 6 kms., an unprecedented achievement at that time.

One of 8 mortars on display

One of 8 mortars on display

Hôtel National des Invalides:  129 rue de Grenelle 75007 Paris, France. Tel: +33 (0)1 44 42 37 72. Fax: +33 (0)1 44 42 35 14. E-mail: infos-ma@invalides.org. Website : www.invalides.org.

Open daily, October 1 to 31 and March (10 AM to 5 PM), April 1 to September 30 (10 AM to 6 PM).  Closed every first Monday in the month, January 1, May 1, September 1 and December 25.
Dome and tomb have same opening times but is accessible from 10 AM to 7 PM from June 15 to September 15. Admission: €9,5.

How to Get There: By Metro (Line 8, Invalides station), RER (Line C, Invalides station), buses  28, 49, 63, 69, 82, 87, 92.

Culion Museum and Archives (Culion, Palawan)

Culion Museum & Archives

Culion Museum & Archives

From the Church of the Immaculate Conception and Culion Fort, we moved on to the Culion Sanatorium where we were to visit the Culion Museum and Archives.  Here, we met up with Pastor Hermie Villanueva of the Coron Tourism Office, a resident and the grandson of a former leper patient, who gave us a guided tour of its exhibits.  Though this was my first time to visit this museum (as well as Culion town), I featured it in my book “A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums” (New Day Publishers, 2010).

Main entrance

Main entrance

Pastor Hermie Villanueva

Pastor Hermie Villanueva

This unique two-storey museum, established in 1997, is housed in what was the first laboratory for leprosy research in the Far East.  It was damaged during the November 8, 2013 super typhoon Yolanda (international name: Haiyan) but was rebuilt through contributions and support of Tokyo BMC and the Sasakawa Memorial Health Foundation (SMHF), in partnership with the Culion Sanitarium  and Gen. Hospital (CSGH).

Timeline of Culion’s History

Timeline of Culion’s History

Leprosy Treatment/ Quest for Cure

Leprosy Treatment/Quest for Cure

The museum documents the discriminatory legislation enforcing compulsory segregation in Culion and the research and clinical trials carried out using chaulmoogra oil and its esters within the colony. It has 6 galleries – “The First Contingent of Patients Arriving in the Colony,” “Leprosy Treatment / Quest for Cure,” “Community Life,” “Timeline of Culion’s History,” “Segregation and Service” and “Old Equipment.”

Chaulmoogra oil

Chaulmoogra oil

A Culion-style ambulance

A Culion-style ambulance

The resultant effects on colony life are recorded in relation to the community interaction of patients, the segregation of children of leprous parents, the use of special currency to prevent (it was believed) the disease being transmitted elsewhere, the results of different research on childhood leprosy and other pioneering research on bacteriology, pathology and epidemiology of leprosy.

Coins used in the colony

Coins used in the colony

Old Equipment

Old Equipment

The museum houses and protects numerous reference works related to leprosy. On display are complete set of old, specially made Culion coins, examples of the different laboratory apparatus and instruments used in early leprosy research (including syringes with which patients were injected with chaulmoogra oil), a wealth of old and detailed Culion pictures and Dr. Windsor Wade’s (the founding editor of the. International Journal of Leprosy) memorabilia, and other items that reflect the community life of leprosy patients.

Musical intruments used by the leper colony band

Musical intruments used by the leper colony band

Religious paraphernalia

Religious paraphernalia

The museum is also a repository for old clinical records and a registry of patients admitted to the “Culion Leper Colony” from different parts of the Philippines since 1906. Also on exhibit are musical instruments used by the Culion Leper Colony Band, religious paraphernalia, stamps, sea shells and insignias and badges of the Culion Police Force.

Insignas and badges of Culion police force

Insignas and badges of Culion police force

Sea shells of Culion

Sea shells of Culion

Culion Museum & Archives: Open Mondays to Fridays, 9 AM to 4 PM.  Curator: Mr. Ricardo Punzalan.  Admission: PhP150.   Mobile numbers: (0912) 797-1077, (0947) 603-0983, (0921) 760-7239 and (0909) 560-7350. E-mail: artculsan@yahoo.com, lotgante@yahoo.com and doh_culsan@yahoo.com.ph.   Website: www.culionsanitariumandgeneralhospital.com.

Culion Tourism Office:  mobile number: (0921) 394-7106 (Pastor Hermie Villanueva). E-mail: herme_1670@yahoo.com.ph.

How to Get There: Culion is a 1.5 to 2-hour motorized outrigger boat ride from Coron town.

How to Get to Coron: Skyjet Airlines has 4 times weekly (Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, 10:30 AM) flights from Manila (NAIA Terminal 4) to Coron (Francisco Reyes Airport).  Travel time is 30 mins.   

Asia Grand View Hotel: Governor’s Ave., Jolo, Brgy. 5, Coron, Palawan.  Tel:(+632) 788-3385. Mobile number: (0999) 881-7848. E-mail: gsd@asiagrandview.com. Manila sales office: Unit 504, Richmonde Plaza, 21 San Miguel Ave., Ortigas Center, Pasig City.  Tel: (+632) 695-3078 and 531-8380.  Mobile number: (0917) 550-7373 to 75 Fax: (+632) 695-3078.  E-mail: info@asiagrandview.com. Website: www.asiagrandview.com. 

Skyjet Airlines: Manila Domestic Airport, Parking A, Terminal 4, NAIA Complex, Brgy. 191, Pasay City, Metro Manila. Tel: (02) 863-1333. E-mail: sales@skyjetair.com. Website: www.skyjetair.com.

Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts (Vietnam)

HCMC Museum of Modern Art

HCMC Museum of Modern Art

On our third day in Ho Chi Minh City, we decided, for a change, to sample Vietnamese art and culture by visiting the HCMC Museum of Fine Arts, the major art museum of Ho Chi Minh City and the second largest in the country after the Vietnam National Museum of Fine Arts in Hanoi.

An antique wooden lift

An antique wooden lift

Originally the classic and elegant, mansion of the Chinese-born businessman Mr. Jean Baptiste Hua Bon Hoa (1845-1901), the wealthiest man of Saigon at the time (he owned the famous Majestic Hotel and Tu Du Hospital), was built between 1929 and 1934 as the Saigon headquarters of the Société Immobilière Hui Bon Hoa.  On September 5, 1987, the 3-storey building was reformed into a museum, as the result of a decision of the City’s People’s Committee.  However, it was not officially opened until 1991.

Modern Arts Exhibit

Modern Arts Exhibit

The museum houses contemporary Vietnamese art  works (much of it, unsurprisingly, focusing on resistance to colonial rulers) on sculpture, oil, silk painting and lacquer painting, as well as traditional styles including woodcut paintings in the Hàng TrốngĐông Hồ, and Kim Hoàng styles; Vietnamese ceramics; a collection of ancient Buddhist art and historical pieces dating back to the 4th century, including elegant Funan-era sculptures of Vishnu, the Buddha and other revered figures (carved in both wood and stone), and Cham art dating from the 7th to 14th century.

Uncle Ho with Children - Diep Minh Chau

Uncle Ho with Children – Diep Minh Chau

One room is devoted to a collection of totem-like funeral sculptures from the Hill Tribes of the Central Highlands. The museum focuses on collecting, keeping, preserving and displaying fine artworks typical of Vietnamese people, especially Ho Chi Minh City and the South.

Mother & Child - Nguyen Phu Cuong (1953)

Mother & Child – Nguyen Phu Cuong (1953)

Even before entering the museum, we already admired statuary scattered around the grounds. We entered a huge hall with beautiful, exuberantly tiled floor, some fine (albeit deteriorated) stained glass and one of Saigon’s oldest wooden lifts.  Though not airconditioned, the museum had airy corridors and breezy verandas. Hung from the walls is an impressive selection of art, including thoughtful pieces from the modern period.

Display of sketches and materials used by wartime artists in the field,

Display of sketches and materials used by wartime artists in the field,

It comprises three floors of exhibition space. The first floor features a changing exhibit of contemporary domestic and international art while the second floor exhibits both contemporary oil paintings, sketches, lacquerware  and sculptures of leading Vietnamese (Thái Hà, Quách Phong, Nguyễn Sáng, Hoàng Trầm, Tú Duyên, Nguyễn Thanh Châu, Trần Văn Lắm, Nguyễn Hải, Dũng Tiến, Phan Mai Trực, Hồ Hữu Thủ, Nguyễn Trung, Trịnh Cung, Đỗ Quang Em, Diệp Minh Châu and Nguyễn Gia Trí) and foreign artists of the last 50 years from its permanent collection.

The museum courtyard

The museum courtyard

The third floor displays an interesting collection of historic arts ranging from 7th century to early 20th century.  They include Cham kingdom and earlier civilizations such as Óc Eo archaeological site in Mekong Delta and 17th-20th century decorative Vietnamese furniture.

Statuary at the courtyard

Statuary at the courtyard

The central courtyard in the center of the building, accessed from the rear of the building, has more statuary scattered around the grounds.  We checked out a cluster of 3 small commercial galleries in the basement. One shop has a selection of lovely prints for sale (costing from around 80,000 VND) while Building No 2 hosts lesser known works and stages exhibitions. The contemporary Blue Space Contemporary Art Center, located near the entrance, is run by the museum.

Blue Space Contemporary Art Center

Blue Space Contemporary Art Center

The Fine Arts Museum, indispensable for those who are keen on Vietnam arts and culture, is not big and modern but its abundant collections more than make up for it. Conveniently located near the Ben Thanh Market, the massive but beautiful French villa that houses the museum, a combination of French and Chinese styles, is an attempt to meld elements of Art Deco with local decorative motifs and spatial principles.

Commercial galleries

Commercial galleries

Through its marble floors; elegant columns; wrought-iron work on its windows and balconies; Chinese-style roof tiles; and spacious, airy rooms, it brings about a typical colonial feeling. It is considered as a work of art itself by most people.

The author

The author

Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts: 97 A- Pho Duc Chinh, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.  Tel: +84 8 3829 4441. Website: www.baotangmythuattphcm.vn.  Admission: 10,000 VND (adult), 3,000 VND (child). Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM – 4:30 PM.

Reunification Palace (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam)

The Reunification Palace

The Reunification Palace

From the St. Francis Xavier Church in Chinatown, we next moved on to the Reunification Palace, one of the most fascinating sights in Ho Chi Minh City. On February 23, 1868, the foundation for a residence was laid on this site for by Adm. Pierre de la Grandiere, the French governor-general of Cochinchina. It was completed in 1873. Gradually, it expanded to become Norodom Palace (Dinh Norodom).

The author, Grace, Cheska, Jandy and a sleeping Kyle at the balcony

The author, Grace, Cheska, Jandy and a sleeping Kyle at the balcony

When the French departed, the palace became home to the unpopular South Vietnamese President Ngô Đình Diệm. On February 27, 1962, 2 pilots (Nguyễn Văn Cử and Phạm Phú Quốc) on two A-1 Skyraider (A-1D/AD-6 variant) aircraft of Diem’s own air force bombed the palace, almost destroying the entire left wing, in an unsuccessful attempt to kill him.

Sun canopies that evoke tall bamboo

Sun canopies that evoke tall bamboo

As it was almost impossible to restore the palace, Diệm ordered it demolished and commissioned a new residence to be built in its place. This time it had a sizeable bomb shelter in the basement. Diem did not get to see his dream house as he, together with his brother and chief adviser Ngô Đình Nhu, were killed by his own troops on November 2, 1963.

Main central stairway

Main central stairway

A grand corridor

A grand corridor

The newly completed building was inaugurated on October 31,1966 by General and later president Nguyễn Văn Thiệu, the chairman of the National Leadership Committee and head of the military junta, and was named Independence Palace (Dinh Doc Lap). It served as Thiệu’s home and office.

Lobby with a Hong Kong-made (1973) circular carpet

Lobby with a Hong Kong-made (1973) circular carpet

The Presidential Office

The Presidential Office

On April 8, 1975, Nguyễn Thanh Trung, a pilot of the Vietnam Air Force and an undetected communist spy, flew an F-5E aircraft from Biên Hòa Air Base and bombed the palace, causing no significant damage. On April 21, 1975, prior to the Fall of Saigon, Thieu hastily fled the palace and went into exile.

After a day of bombardment, the North Vietnamese were ready to make their final push into Saigon. On April 30, 1975, 10:45 AM, a Russian-made  North Vietnamese Army T-54/55 (No. 843) tank of Tank Corps 203, 2nd Army, crashed through its wrought-iron gates, a dramatic scene recorded by Australian photo journalist Neil Davis and shown around the world. After crashing through the gates, a soldier ran into the building and up the stairs to unfurl a Vietcong flag from the balcony at 11:30 AM.

In an ornate reception chamber, Gen. Dương Văn Minh, who had become head of the South Vietnamese state only 43 hours before, waited with his improvised cabinet. “I have been waiting since early this morning to transfer power to you,” Minh said to the Vietcong officer who entered the room. “There is no question of your transferring power,” replied the officer. “You cannot give up what you do not have.” At 3:30 PM, Minh broadcast over the radio, stating “I declare the Saigon government…completely dissolved at all levels.” The dissolution of the South Vietnamese government effectively ended the Vietnam War.

Designed by Paris-trained Vietnamese architect Ngô Viết Thụ, this outstanding example of typical, strikingly modern 1960s architecture was built on a block of 12 hectares bordering four streets: Nam Ky Khoi Nghia in the front (the main entrance is open to Le Duan Boulevard), Huyen Tran Cong Chua in the back, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai on the right and Nguyen Du on the left.  Its external sun canopies evoke the shape of tall bamboo.  Its spacious rooms open onto grand corridors grouped around a monumental central staircase.

Presidential Reception Room

Presidential Reception Room

Following the liberation of Saigon, the Palace became the headquarters of the Municipal Military Administrative Committee. In 1975 the building was renamed Truong Thong Nhat to commemorate the national reunification. Before 1975, access to the palace and some surrounding areas was prohibited to the public. Today, the palace has become a famous tourist attraction in HCMC, hosting, on average, about 700-1,000 tourists per day (2,500-3,000 on Sundays).

Vice-President's Reception Salon

Vice-President’s Reception Salon

The 5-storey, handsomely-designed building consists of 95 rooms and chambers, each decorated, according to its function, with the finest modern Vietnamese arts and crafts.  Merging classic 1960’s architecture with the principles of feng shui and Chinese calligraphy, the design of the building is said to represent the Chinese character Hung which means “the nation to be prosperous forever.” It features two exhibition rooms, a 33-room guesthouse, bomb shelter, Catholic chapel, helipad and numerous entertainment facilities.

Ambassadors Chamber

Ambassadors Chamber

The ground floor has various meeting rooms including a room with a boat-shaped table that was often used for conferences. In the back of the building are the president’s living quarters (check out the model boats, horse tails and severed elephants’ feet). Upstairs are a grand set of reception rooms used for meeting foreign and national dignitaries.  A room called Phu Dau Rong was where Pres. Nguyen Van Thieu received foreign delegations. The upstairs office with maps was actually just a decoy.

The private apartments

The private apartments

On the third floor is a shagadelic card-playing room , complete with a round leather banquette, a barrel-shaped bar, hubcap light fixtures and groovy three-legged chairs set around a flared-legged card table. There’s also a cinema and a rooftop nightclub, complete with a terrace with a heliport where a helicopter similar to that used for the evacuation of Pres. Thieu before the Viet Cong arrived is parked. From the balcony is a nice view of the surrounding park. The fourth floor, used for dancing, even had a casino.

First Lady's Reception Room

First Lady’s Reception Room

The most interesting part of this 4,500 sq. m. building is probably the eerie basement’s extensive command center which contains a network of tunnels, a telecommunication center, mobile radio section, a spare radio station, the President’s bedroom, a large kitchen, a shooting range and a war room, full of ancient 1960s and 1970s phones, radios and office equipment.

The Game Room

The Game Room

Cinema

Cinema

Also on display are a Mercedes Benz 200 W110 car and a XE Jeep M151A2, a gallery with historical pictures on the walls (including many photos of US soldiers and personnel making a mad dash for the departing helicopters during the Fall of Saigon) and the best map of Vietnam you’ll ever see pasted on the wall, all supposedly left exactly as it was found when the North took over.  It made me feel like I was on the set of “MASH.”

National Security Council Chamber

National Security Council Chamber

President's bunker bedroom

President’s bunker bedroom

Outside, on the parade ground, is a F-5E fighter plane (similar to the one which bombed the palace on April 8, 1975) as well as a Russian-made T-54/55 tank (Tank 843) and a Chinese-made T-59 tank (Tank 390), both identical to the armored vehicles that broke through the palace gates.

Mercedes Benz 200 W110

Mercedes Benz 200 W110

XE Jeep M151A2

XE Jeep M151A2

The Reunification Palace may not be the most opulent of palaces but it is interesting to see because of its place in history. The very nice grounds, surrounded by immense lawns and high trees in its gardens, provide an airy and open atmosphere, a peaceful respite in the heart of a bustling area.

Target practice range

Target practice range

Photo gallery at the bunker

Photo gallery at the bunker

The eerie feeling of the empty hallways and the smell of damp air of the basement’s dark and forbidden, maze-like bunker system truly has a surrealistic quality to it. A time warp, it’s as if time has stood still since morning of April 30, 1975 (except for new gates).

Heliport.  The circle marks the spot where Nguyễn Thanh Trung bombs fell

Heliport. The circle marks the spot where Nguyễn Thanh Trung’s two bombs fell

1960s communication equipment at the bunker

1960s communication equipment at the bunker

Still, it is well worth the time to visit this section of the Reunification Palace, the real heart of it all. The cracked old furniture, fixtures and fittings are very kitsch and don’t feel out of place on the set of a 1960’s James Bond movie or even an Austin Powers film. This fantastic place, one of the best museums I have ever seen in my life, has to be visited for the history and architecture alone. A must see in HCMC.

Kyle in front of a F-5E Freedom Fighter

Kyle in front of a F-5E Freedom Fighter

T-54 Tank (Tank 843) and T-59 Tank (Tank 390)

T-54 Tank (Tank 843) and T-59 Tank (Tank 390)

Reunification Palace: 135 Nam Kỳ Khởi Nghĩa, Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam.  Tel:+84 8 3822 3652. Open daily (so long as official receptions or meetings aren’t taking place), 7:30AM to 11:30AM and 1 to 5PM. Admission: adult (VND15,000) and children (VND2,000). English- and French-speaking guides are on duty during opening hours (prices are ‘up to you’). Some rooms in the palace are available for hire for meeting and banquets.