Category Archives: Churches

Seduced by Bacolod City (Negros Occidental)

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Provincial Capitol

Our early morning tour of the city was an eye opener for both Charlie and me.  The major roads here were very wide, even by Manila standards (and cleaner), some even able to accommodate 10 cars side by side.   In spite of the light traffic (even during rush hours), many of these roads are designated as one way.  And wonder of wonders: no tricycles allowed!  I really liked this city with its unhurried pace, a truly refreshing and relaxing departure from the demands and pressures of a big metropolis like Manila.   The cities of Iloilo and Bacolod are similar in that they both have an Ilonggo-speaking populace.  Not quite similar though.  The city’s 429,076 (2000 figure) Bacoleños, both men and women, seem to speak Ilonggo with a more languorous and seductive (malambing) lilting accent, truly endearing and pleasant to hear.  Now I know why my Kapampangan father fell in love with my mother.  Also, the Bacoleños’ also have an easy-going, old world charm, gracious hospitality and natural knack for entertaining.

Downtown Bacolod

Bacolod is also a showcase for the old and new, of harmony and contrast.  Aside from its well-planned road system, the city is also experiencing an unprecedented construction boom of sorts, with new shopping malls (Robinsons, Gaisano, etc.), office buildings, specialty restaurants, hotels and other mega structures being built, all reflecting the life of gentility and taste, for the finest, Bacoleños are noted for.  Of particular interest for me, however, are the city’s old structures, reflecting its glorious Spanish and American-era past. 

Robinson’s Bacolod

A relic of the city’s Spanish past is the San Sebastian Cathedral,  along Rizal St., flanking the plaza.   The present structure, using Guimaras Island coral, was built upon the initiative of Recollect Fr. Mauricio Ferrero and completed, on January 20, 1882, by Fr. Fernando Cuenca. It became a cathedral on 23 June 1933.  In 1936, the cathedral was repaired and improved by Bishop Casimiro M. Lladoc.  In 1976, the 100th year anniversary of the cathedral, its bells were brought down from the belfry and mounted on the right side of the churchyard.  Beside the cathedral is the Palacio Episcopal (bishop’s palace), the seat of the diocese of the province. Started in 1830 by Fr. Julian Gonzaga, it was completed only in the 1890s and was, during the revolution, a refuge of Spanish military and civil officials.

San Sebastian Cathedral

Our visit to the Provincial Planning Office allowed us a peek of the American-era Provincial Capitol along Gatuslao St..  This Roman Neo-Classical-style building, built from 1927 to 1933 and based on Daniel Burnham’s (the planner of Baguio City) design, is located in front of the park and lagoon (a popular spot for joggers and strollers).  Because of its fine symmetry and proportion, it is considered as the most beautiful capitol building in the country.

City Tourism Office: cor. San Juan and Gonzaga Sts. (in front of Public Plaza), Bacolod City, Negros Occidental. Tel: (034) 434-6751, 708-3066 & 433-6847.  E-mail: ikanaan@bacolodcity.gov.ph.  
City Mayor’s Office: City Hall, Bacolod City, Negros Occidental. Tel: (034)  435-1111. Fax: (034) 435-3333.  E-mail: cmo@bacolod.net.

Molo District: The "Athens of the Philippines" (Iloilo City)

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Molo District, located 4 kms. from the city proper, was the former Chinese quarter of Arevalo called the Parian. Formerly a town before it was absorbed by Ilolilo City, it is also called the “Athens of the Philippines” because it produced some of the best political leaders and thinkers of the land such as Gregorio S. Araneta (secretary of the Malolos Congress), Gen. Aniceto L. Lacson and Chief Justice Ramon Avancena.  Here, you can try the popular pancit molo, spiced pork-chicken meatballs daintily wrapped in thin dough and boiled in peppery chicken-pork broth.  It was introduced here by the Chinese during the 18th century.

Church of St. Anne

The district’s twin-towered, Gothic–Renaissance Church of St. Anne, one of a few churches in Iloilo not built by the Augustinians, was built with coral rock and a tile roof, in 1831, under the supervision of Don Jose Manuel Locsin. In 1863, it was replaced by a temporary church by Fr. Jose Ma. Sichon until it was renovated in 1869 by Bishop Mariano Cuartero.  On August 4, 1886, our National Hero Jose P. Rizal visited this church to pray on his way to Manila from exile in Dapitan, referring to it as “la iglesia bonita.”  During the liberation of Iloilo in 1945, the church withstood artillery barrages but its two bell towers were totally destroyed and the church partially damaged.  It was rebuilt after the war.  The church, declared as a National Landmark by the National Historical Institute in 1992, has stained-glass windows and 5 wooden Gothic-style retablos. It is also called the Women’s Lib church because of the 16 life-size female saints’ statues lining the nave.  The district’s patron saint, St. Anne is in a prominent corner of its massive, antique wooden altar.

A nearby bandstand

In front of the church is a plaza filled with old trees, with gnarled trunks and branches, and an interesting domed gazebo which is actually a bandstand, a typical feature in Western Visayas plazas.

Church of St. Anne: cor. Jocson and San Marcos Sts., Molo District, Iloilo City, Iloilo.

La Paz District (Iloilo City)

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La Paz District, located 2 kms. from the city proper, was formerly called Lobo, Llaunon, Ilawod and Iznart (after Iloilo alcalde mayor Manuel Iznart), was established as a parish in 1868. It is noted for its La Pazbatchoy, a delicacy made of flat, scissored noodles and pork innards simmered in broth and topped with crushed pork crackers and spicy herbs.  It is served in restaurants around the market. 

Church of Our Lady of Peace
Its brick and stone, Neo-Classic style Church of Nuestra Señora de la Paz y Buen Viaje (Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage), at the plaza, was started in 1847 by Fr. Candido Gonzalez, continued by Fr. Leandro Jambrina (in 1879) and Fr. Manuel Camara (in 1880) and enlarged and finished, in 1895, by Fr. Mariano Isart.  In 1909, it was restored by Fr. Anselmo Corcuera.  The stone convent was started by Fr. Mariano Isart based on plans by Don Julio Hernandez and Don Lorenzo Romero.  It was damaged during World War II and the 1948 earthquake.  

The church interior

Two engaged columns, supporting a triangular pediment, are recent additions (1970).  The 2-level church facade is flanked by twin octagonal, domed bell towers. 

Church of Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage: Jereos St., La Paz District, Iloilo City, Iloilo.

 

Jaro District (Iloilo City)

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After breakfast at the hotel, Charlie and I started our GPS mapping of 3 of Iloilo’s 5 nearby districts – Jaro, La Paz and Molo (the others are Arevalo and Mandurriao, the site of the airport).  All 5 were incorporated to the city in 1936 by virtue of Commonwealth Act No. 158 and each has its own plaza and church.

Jaro Cathedral

We first proceeded to Jaro District, an elite residential center located just 4 kms. from the city proper, and drop by its Gothic-style Jaro Cathedral (officially the Cathedral of Our Lady of Candles).  Located just across the street from the plaza, it is the seat of the Jaro Archbishopric. Mass has just been finished when we arrived.

The cathedral’s separate bell tower

The cathedral was first built before 1726 by Fr. Bernardino Alisen.    The present structure was built in 1874, upon the orders of Most Reverend F. Mariano Cuartero, O.P., first bishop of Jaro.  It was damaged during the January 5, 1948 earthquake and reconstructed, in 1956, under Archbishop Jose Ma. Cuenco.  Its separate 3-storey, 25-m. high, red brick belfry was built by Fr. Juan Aguado, restored, from 1833 to 1835, by Fr. Jose Alvarez and was ruined during the 1948 earthquake.  St. Vincent Ferrer Seminary, located near the cathedral, was where famous propagandist, orator, journalist and local son Graciano Lopez-Jaena went to school. 

Iloilo City Tour: By Car

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After our museum visit, we tried, for lunch, one of Iloilo’s famous cuisine, La Paz batchoy at Ted’s at the Provincial Capitol. After lunch, we began the GPS mapping of the rest of the city proper in earnest, making short stopovers at a number of the city’s notable landmarks.

Church of St. Joseph

Fronting the City Hall is Plaza Libertad (formerly Plaza Alfonso XII), at the intersection of De la Rama, Gen. Hughes and Zamora Sts. It was the site where the first Philippine flag was raised, on  December 25, 1898, after Spain’s surrender to Gen. Martin Delgado.  Across the plaza is San Jose Parish Church, started in 1873 by Augustinian Fr. Mauricio Blanco, who also built the convent.  It was spared during World War II.  The main altar was gilded with 17,000 gold panels by Fr. Jesus Fernandez.  Renovated, from 1980 to 1982, by Fr. Gilbert Centina III, O.S.A.., Romblon marble was used to decorate the transept walls, presbytery, the main and side altar walls and the floors.  This 1-storey Byzantine church has 3 naves, a transept and 2 flanking, 3-storey, rectangular bell towers (one of which has a barometer and a clock).

Forts San Pedro

Fort San Pedro, near the mouth of the Iloilo River.  Built in 1616 as a defense against enemy raids, it was almost totally destroyed, by naval and air bombardment, during World War II.  The Iloilo-Negros Air Express Company (INAEC, founded by Don Eugenio Lopez, Sr. on 3 February 1933), pioneered the first commercial aircraft flight in the country, which took off from a grassy airfield near the fort.   Also nearby, at the river’s mouth, is a lighthouse and Rotary Park.   

Iloilo Port Terminal building

The city’s port, one of the country’s finest, is protected by Guimaras Island.  It handles a considerable volume of rice and sugar shipments. Muelle Loney, the riverfront, with its wharves and warehouses, is a popular promenade named after Nicholas Loney (1826 to 22 April 1859), British vice-consul in Iloilo in 1855 and Father of the Philippine Sugar Industry.  Loney established the first trading company in Iloilo and transformed and galvanized the local sugar industry in Negros and Panay by importing British machinery.  

Church of St. Joseph the Patriarch (Aguilar, Pangasinan)

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This fine old Spanish-era church was first built in 1809 by Dominican Father Bernardo Pons.  The foundation of the present church and bell tower were first laid by Fr. Benito Sanchez Fraga, continued by Frs. Ramon Dalmau and Francisco Treserra and finished by Fr. Pedro Villanova.  It was inaugurated on June 4, 1854.  The choir loft and sacristy were built by Fr. Lucio Asensio.  From 1866 to 1878, Fr. Gallego built the main altar and ceiling, painted the church and finished the bell tower.   The bell tower was destroyed during the March 16, 1892 earthquake and later repaired by Fr. Victor Herrero.

Church of St. Joseph the Patriarch

Church of St. Joseph the Patriarch

The church has a distinct 3-level Baroque facade with a large volute at the pediment sloping down to the second level.  There are also superpositioned columns, a segmented arched main entrance, depressed segmented arched windows on the second level and a statued niche at the third level.   The foundations of its present convent was first laid in 1832 by Fr. Juan Alvarez del Manzano, continued by Fr. Nicolas Fuentes and finished by Fr. Benito Sanchez Fraga.

The church interior

The church interior

How to Get There: San Fabian is located 9 kms. south of Lingayen and 191 kms. from Manila.

Cathedral of St. Joseph (Alaminos City, Pangasinan)

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This church was first built by in 1770 but was destroyed by fire in 1814.  The present structure was started by Fr. Manuel Busqueto from 1837 to 1849 and continued by Fr.Jose Tornos from 1849 to 1878.  Fr.Victorino Vereciano renovated the roof and the floor from 1879 to 1893.

Cathedral of St. Joseph

Cathedral of St. Joseph

The church has a plain and simple, three-level Baroque facade.  The third level has a wing-like, undulating wall concealing the aisle roof.  It also has segmented arch main entrance with similar segmented arch windows at the second and third level.

The cathedral interior

The cathedral interior

How to Get There: Alaminos City is located 334 kms. from Manila and 42.5 kms. northwest of Lingayen.

Church of St. Joseph (Las Pinas City)

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Church of St. Joseph (left) and the old Spanish convent (right)

While driving along the Alabang-Zapote Rd. in Las Pinas City with Jandy, I decided, on a whim, to revisit the Church of St. Joseph.   The church was built by Fr. Diego Cera de la Virgen del Carmen, parish priest of Las Piñas till May 15, 1832 (when he could no longer perform his duties due to severe illness) between 1792 and 1818, to replace an earlier structure of bamboo and nipa.

Facade of Church of St. Joseph

This labor of love, built with adobe stones in the “Earthquake Baroque” style was, however damaged during the 1829 (January 18, July 29 and September 30), 1863 (3 June) and 1880 (19 July) earthquakes and rebuilt again in 1883.

The statue of Fr. Diego Cera sculpted by Napoleon Abueva

The church façade and its grounds were effectively renovated, from 1971 to 1975, using the services of noted architects Francisco “Bobby” Mañosa and Ludwig Alvarez.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (now National Historical Commission) in 1995

The major part of the restoration involved the cleaning of the exterior walls to reveal the original walls and the missing stones were replaced with similar stones to limit the use of cement.

The bell tower on the church’s left

On December 3, 1972, the new church was inaugurated.with a slightly advance middle section and a semicircular arched main entrance topped by a depressed three-centered arch. Semicircular arched windows and jambs with fluted piers flanked both. It is 34 m. (110 ft.) long, 29 m. (94 ft.) wide and has a nave width of 21 m. (70 ft.).

The church’s interior

On its left is the massive, 4-storey high square bell tower while on the right is the old Spanish convent (it now serves as an entrance).  Inside the church are stained capiz windows, narra pews, a bamboo ceiling and carriage lamps on bamboo stands.

The church’s main altar which was repositioned, during the 1971 to 1975 restoration, to face the people as required by the new Ecumenical Council guidelines

Within the church compound is a statue of Fr. Diego Cera, sculpted by National Artist for Sculpture Napoleon Abueva, and unveiled on July 27, 1995, the 200th anniversary of the Parish of St. Joseph.

Bamboo Organ

Also called the Bamboo Organ church, it houses the Bamboo Organ, a pipe organ made mostly with bamboo pipes.

Check out “Bamboo Organ“

A side altar

 

NOTE: On July 15, 2013, the Church of St. Joseph was declared as a National Historic Landmark by National Historical Institute.

The original hewn stone baptismal font, discovered buried in the courtyard of the church, was cleaned by the late notable sculptor Eduardo Castrillo who also added a brass basin sculpture as his additional contribution.

The old, hewn stone baptismal font with the brass basin sculpture added by Eduardo Castrillo

Church of St. Joseph: P. Diego Cera Ave., Brgy. Daniel Fajardo, Poblacion, Las Pinas City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 8820-5454, 8825-7190 and 8820-0795.

Pindangan Church Ruins (City of San Fernando, La Union)

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Off the National Highway, near Camp Oscar Florendo, I drove for about 500 m. to the Carmelite Monastery of the Holy Family in Brgy. San Vicente, about 1 km. south of the city.  Beside it are the Pindangan Church Ruins,  the picturesque, roofless remains of a small vine-covered brick and coral church, the first in San Fernando. The monastery’s nuns are the caretakers of these church ruins.

The Pindangan Church Ruins

The church was built on May 6, 1786 to celebrate the union of sitios San Vicente de Balanac and San Guillermo de Dalangdang into the new village of Pindangan (derived from the Ilocano word pindang, a traditional method of drying fish).  It was damaged during the 1892 earthquake and left in ruins.  Today, only the solid stone walls and buttresses remain and a new chapel was built at its former altar where a mass is regularly celebrated. A belfry and a deep well are located at its south end. 

Remains of the church’s buttresses

Cathedral of St. William the Hermit (City of San Fernando, La Union)

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The kids were still asleep when I awoke the next day and, after informing Grace of my plans, decided to drive the short 5-km. distance, along the National Highway, from the resort to the City of San Fernando to do some sightseeing before we leave for Manila.  I arrived at the  Cathedral of St. William the Hermit, located across the plaza and along Gomez St., just when the mass was about to end.

Church of St. William the Hermit

The seat of the Diocese of San Fernando and a suffragan of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia, this church was first built of stone and brick from 1773 to 1786.  The present church was built in 1817 by Fr. Simon Torrado, damaged during the 1860 earthquake and rebuilt in 1873 by Fr. Luis Perez.  Fr. Jose Rodriguez Cabezas made some modifications and laid the foundation for the two bell towers and choir loft.  The church was severely damaged during the 1892 earthquake, occupied by rebels in 1898, destroyed again during the liberation (February 26, 1945) and was rebuilt from 1947 to 1949.   The convent, also built in 1817 by Fr. Torrado, was restored by Fr. Jose Rodriguez Cabezas.

The cathedral’s interior
The colonial Baroque facade, profusely decorated in the Art Nouveau style by ornate scrolls and rosetted and foliaged ornaments in plaster reliefs, is supported on each side by four tiers of Tuscan columns, paired columns on the first and second level and single columns on the triangular pediment and its crown.  Single columns are at the far end of the side walls.  The church’s semicircular arched main entrance, heavily moulded with floral patterns, is topped by a depressed three-centered arched window flanked by pointed arched windows.  The bell tower on the right is a later addition.