Category Archives: PLACES OF INTEREST

Railway Museum of British Columbia: Railyard (Squamish, Canada)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Railway Museum of British Columbia

After lunch at White Spot at Squamish town center, we decide to explore the town and, just on the north side of the town, we chanced upon the 12-acre Railway Museum of British Columbia (RMBC), a wonderful but not that well-known attraction nestled in the beauty of the Squamish Valley.

This replica of a turn-of-the-century railway station and town centre, surrounded by spectacular mountain vistas, features vintage locomotives, artifacts and themed train rides.

Also within the museum is a blacksmith shop, a Pacific Great Eastern (PGE) fire hall, an old-time print shop (with vintage printing press) and a general store.

Print Shop

 

General Store

The railway museum, first opened in July 1994 as the West Coast Railway Heritage Park (it was just renamed as RMBC last July 1, 2021), is locted 40 kms. north of Vancouver.  It is home to the growing collection of the West Coast Railway Association (WCRA), a nonprofit charitable organization established in 1961 with a mission of preserving British Columbia ‘s railway heritage. In 1963, they purchased the first piece of its historic collection – a Canadian Pacific business car built in 1890.

Today, their heritage railway collection has grown to number 95 locomotives and cars, the the largest collection of railway rolling stock in Western Canada and second largest collection of railway rolling stock and associated artifacts collection in Canada (the largest is the Exporail – Le Musee Ferroviare Canadien in Quebec), representing all the major railways which have served British Columbia (Canadian Pacific, Canadian National, Pacific Great Eastern, BC Electric and Great Northern).

A flatbed railway car

In 2004, the Heritage Park acquired and started to operate its full size trains during special events and on special occasions, making it a licensed operating railway.  Its most unique and beautiful layout is set in the context of a typical small town built around the railway station with many buildings as well as the trains themselves.

Turntable (or wheelhouse) is a device for turning railway rolling stock, usually locomotives, so that they can be moved back in the direction from which they came.

The museum hosts several major seasonal events:

  • Thomas the Train Spring Event (May) – take 20-min. trips on the Thomas the Tank Engine and meet Sir Topham Hatt.
  • Dinosaur Train (spring break) – train ride and exploration that includes dinosaurs from Jim Henson’s TV cartoon series, digging for bones and other craft activities.
  • Mystery of the Magic Pumpkin (October)
  • Polar Express (early December) – take a 50-min. trip to the North Pole similar to what happens in the Polar Express animated movie starring Tom Hanks

Upon arrival, we took time to explore the rail yard, exploring the Canadian National FP9A Diesel 6520 locomotive, boarding its driver’s compartment and caboose.  Recently repainted in the bold and striking 1961 CN scheme that it wore for most of its career in passenger service, it was revealed to the public in Squamish in November 2019, after several years of restoration and upgrades.

Canadian National FP9A Diesel 6520

Geared for a top speed of 89 MPH, CN 6520 was used to pull the finest regional and transcontinental trains of its time, finishing its career painted in VIA colors until it served again in CN Green and Gold in Ontario at the Waterloo & St. Jacobs Railway. It runs very well, being one of our prime pieces of motive power for Events Trains and other special activities.

Kyle at the driver’s compartment

Coupled to the 6520 is the CPR No. 8 Alberta Business Car. Constructed in July of 1929, it was one of a group of 10 cars built for divisional superintendents and each named after Canadian provinces. The car body of “Alberta” was built by National Steel and CPR completed the interior finishing at Angus Shops in Montreal.  It was used as a business car for travelling railway executives and their staff, serving as an office, home and entertainment center. When built 1929, it had many smaller rooms to accommodate the various needs of the executives.

CPR No. 8 Alberta Business Car

Similar to the “British Columbia,” this car has a varnished mahogany interior and many brass fittings. After retirement in 1970, modifications were done to make the car suitable for use as a restaurant. Bedroom partition walls were removed and the galley enlarged. In this current configuration, the car has a lounge with an open observation platform, a large dining area and galley. Fortunately the general ambiance of the car’s interior has been preserved.

Cheska, Grace, Kyle, the author and Bryan inside the CPR No. 8 Alberta Business Car

Other train locomotives and cabooses that I could identify within the railyard include a GMD FP7A locomotive, a Canadian Pacific FP7A Diesel 4069 locomotive, a  BCER 941 locomotive  and a Henry Pickering Open Observation Car.

BCER 941 locomotive (70 tons, 1949)

Canadian Pacific FP7A Diesel 4069

The BCER 941 locomotive is a General Electric 70-ton switcher built in September 1949 while the GMD FP7A locomotive (unit 1404), built in June 1953 by General Motors Diesel for Canadian Pacific  Railway, was used by the Algoma Central Railway.

1953 GMD FP7A (Algoma Central Railway 1404) locomotive

 The Henry Pickering Open Observation Car, built in 1914 as part of the first order of all steel coaches for the Canadian Pacific Railway, was in continuous service until retired in 1955. In 1956, it was rebuilt, from coach No. 1422, to Open Observation car No. 598 and used on the ‘Mountaineer’ train that ran from Vancouver to St. Paul, Minnesota.

Henry Pickering Open Observation Car

In 1964,WCRA acquired the car and, in 1974, it was leased by the BC Government to be part of the Royal Hudson train and s named Mt. Garibaldi.  It operated until the mid 1980’s and, again, from 2000 to 2001. In 2003, extensive restoration was completed. Renamed Henry Pickering, since 2004, it has operated with the Rocky Mountaineer.

Brightbill House

We also explored the Brightbill Heritage House built in 1937 by Harry Brightbill, the very first conductor (he was such for 40 years) hired on the Pacific Great Eastern Railway or PGE (the first railway to run north – south in BC, and originally operated from Squamish to Quesnel ) in 1912.

Originally located at the corner of 2nd Ave. and Winnepeg St., Mr. and Mrs. Brightbill raised three daughters (Alma, Cassy and Harriett) in this house. During this time there was no highway to come up to Squamish from Vancouver so you had to take a steamboat.

There was no refrigerator in those days, so they would have to use an icebox and a big block of ice to keep the food tolerably cold. There was a possibility that they had no electricity in those either so they would have to keep warm by using the wood stove. This family was very lucky as they had indoor plumbing. Back in the 1930’s a lot of people still had to go to outdoor toilets.

In the 1970’s, after Mr. and Mrs. Brightbill had passed, the house was donated to the town of Squamish.  It was moved twice, first to the Stan Clark Park where it was used as a museum. For 12 years it was left empty. Then, the District of Squamish donated it to the West Coast Railway Heritage Park (WCRHP) and it was moved to this site in 1999.

Mac Norris Railway Station

After our exploration of the rail yard, we proceeded to the Mac Norris Railway Station which was built in 2001, together with the town park area and gardens. The station, designed for Squamish in 1915 by the Pacific Great Eastern Railway, was only built until 85 years later by the Heritage Park.  The boarding point for excursions, it also houses the museum’s offices and stores.

BC Rail Budd Diesel Rail Car BC-21

Here, we were to ride the self-propelled  BC Rail Budd Diesel Rail Car BC-21 (an RDC-1 configuration model), one of three operational units that sees regular service throughout the museum (the others are the BC-33 and the Canadian Pacific Henry Pickering Observation Car No. 598).

On board the BC Rail Budd Diesel Rail Car BC-21

Leaving promptly at 4 PM, our ride took us to and fro the MP2 Restoration Center, at south end of the museum’s property.  From our large windows, we took in the full scale of the train yard where we watched trains being restored.

A BC Hydro GE Steeplecab Electric 960 Locomotive at the Restoration Center

After our big train ride, we also tried out the popular, 20-min. Mini-Train Rail ride which is a great way to see most of the park as it us from one end of the grounds to the other.

The PGE No. 561 Mini-Rail Train

Boarding our Mini-Rail Train

Covering 2.5 kms. of track, we departed from Silver Fox Station on board a PGE No. 561, a 12-inch gauge train (others are the Southern Railway 124, Canadian Pacific 401, SRY GP-7 124, BCR 4601, BCR M420 646, etc.).

Twin Cedars Station

We then made our way past Twin Cedars Station, then the Garden Railway, to Wilkie Station where the engine was to be turned.

Wilkie Station

While waiting, I checked out a WFP 123 Englewood Logging Speeder.  Built in 1947, it was used on the Englewood Logging Railway until 2017.

WFP 123 Englewood Logging Speeder

After the engine was turned, we again boarded and proceeded all the way around Mason Station before returning to Silver Fox Station.

Enjoying our first Mini-Rail Train ride

Railway Museum of British Columbia: 39645 Government Road, Squamish, British Columbia V8B 0B6.  Tel:  604-898-9336.  E-mail: Info@wcra.org. Website: www.wcra.org. Open every Saturday and long weekends, Sundays all summer, 10 AM – 5 PM, select Thursdays, 10 AM – 3 PM. Group Tour events Special Access.  Admission (plus taxes): ($25 (adults, 19–59 years), $20 (seniors, 60+ years), $18 (students ages 12+), $10 (children, 6-11 years), $75 (family, where members must reside at the same address). Toddlers, under 5 years of age, are free admission.  Admission tickets usually include all rides and activities.

How to Get There: the museum isn’t so easy to find unless you have a good map or GPS. Driving past the main intersection with Petro-Canada, 7-Eleven & McDonalds, turn left at either of the next two exits (Industrial Way or Commercial Way) then turn right on Queens Way and follow that a short distance until it merges with Government Road at the stop sign. Proceed across the BC Railway Crossing (after looking both ways). The entrance to the museum will be on your right.

Fairacres Mansion (Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Fairacres Mansion

The large, two-and-one-half storey, sprawling Fairacres Mansion, also called the H.T. Ceperley House (after its original owners), now houses the Burnaby Art Gallery.   Designed by English born and trained architect Robert Percival Sterling Twizell (1875-1964) who was steeped in the current architectural trends in Great Britain, it was one of his grandest residential commissions.  The mansion, on the north shore of Deer Lake, was built in 1910 at an estimated cost of C$150,000.00, making it the largest and most expensive house in Burnaby and the Lower Mainland at that time.

Check out “Burnaby Art Gallery” and “Deer Lake Park”

The 20-acre (half of it landscaping) estate, owned by American-born couple Henry Tracy Ceperley (1850- 1929) and Grace E. Dixon Ceperley (1863-1917, a successful and well-respected businessman who made a significant contribution to the development of the City of Vancouver), was conceived and funded by Grace who had achieved significant wealth through a bequest from Vancouver pioneer Arthur G. Ferguson (the same Ferguson of Ferguson Point in Stanley Park), her brother-in-law. The construction of Fairacres, their retirement home, spawned the transformation of the Deer Lake area from a farming community into a preferred location for elite suburban homes.


The mansion was constructed in the Edwardian Arts and Crafts style which is often used for estate mansions as a symbol of affluence and good, modern taste, as well as an affinity for all things British. It is reflected in the architectural detailing and proportions, with handmade fixtures, carpentry and tiled fireplaces.  Quality, in the finishes and materials, orchestrated by James Charles Allen, a prominent local contractor, was displayed inside and out.

On the death of Grace at the age of 54 ‘(her ghost was said to haunt the mansion), Henry sold the house, in 1923, to Frederick Buscombe (one-time mayor of Vancouver). It also served as a tuberculosis ward for Vancouver General Hospital.  In 1939, Mr. and Mrs. Alexander Munro, the last family to own the mansion, sold the house to the Benedictine monks from Oregon and, in 1953, it became an abbey. In 1954, the Order vacated the house when it moved to Westminster Abbey (British Columbia) in Mission.

 

In 1955, the Benedictines sold the property to the Canadian Temple of the More Abundant Life, a cult headed by William Franklin Wolsey (who called himself “Archbishop John I”), a convicted bigamist (with a string of extortion and wife-beating charges), serving as its church and school.  After the school closed in 1960 (when Wolsey fled the country), it was leased and converted into a fraternity house (or “Animal House” of sorts) for Simon Fraser University‘s Delta Upsilon Fraternity.

Ground floor fireplace

In 1966, the Burnaby Art Society (led by Jack Hardman, Polly Svangtun, Sheila Kincaid and Winifred Denny, among others) worked with the City of Burnaby (its first civic heritage conservation project) to purchase the 3.4 hectares (8.4 acres) site for C$166,000.00 for conversion to Burnaby’s first art gallery.

To mark Canada’s Centennial of Confederation, the Burnaby Art Gallery opened its doors in June 1967. In 1992, it was designated as a Heritage Property and, on February 22, 2005, it was listed on the Canadian Register of Historic Places.

Wooden stairway

The exterior featured a rich variety of exterior elements that demonstrate the typical Edwardian Arts and Crafts use of local materials such as cobblestone chimneys and foundations, wide wooden siding and half-timbering.

It had a side-gabled roof with prominent dormers and cedar shingle cladding, a porte cochere (with its side steps for those arriving by automobile, and central raised step for those alighting from horse-drawn carriages), a mixture of double-hung and casement wooden-sash windows (many with multi-paned sash) and a verandah across the eastern (garden) facade, with its vistas over the landscaped gardens, the distant mountains, Deer Lake and other grand homes in the area.

The lavish interior spaces, designed for entertaining on a grand scale, featured a generous living and dining rooms arranged off a central hall.  Detailed features of the interior woodwork (including the staircase) were carved by Scottish-born George Selkirk Gibson (1867-1942), a master wood carver who was best known for his many commissions for prominent British Columbia architect Samuel Maclure.

The billiard room and parlor with a beamed ceiling and an inglenook fireplace, also had a grand oak mantelpiece hand-carved by Gibson which bears a quote by Ralph Waldo Emerson: “The ornament of a house is the friends who frequent it.”

The tiles in the fireplace surrounds throughout the house, imported from England, were fabricated by Conrad Dressler and his Medmenham Pottery.  It is one of the earliest documented use of these tiles outside the United Kingdom.  The interiors also featured leaded stained glass and window hardware by Hope and Sons.

Marker for Root House and Steam Plant

The main house anchors, in style and setting, the four associated original outbuildings (Garage and Stables; Root House, Steam Plant and Chauffeur’s Cottage) on the estate which are an important record of the functioning of a large estate of the time.  Some were designed by Architect Robert Mackay Fripp (1858-1917), also an outspoken advocate of Arts and Crafts design.

Root House

The one-storey, 4.6 by 9.1 m., masonry Root House, was used as a frost-free store for fruit and vegetables for the family’s use. Built in 1908, the long, low Root House was significantly altered in the 1960s and restored to its original design in 2000.

Root House

It had a front-gabled roof with cedar shingle cladding and its distinctive Arts and Crafts architectural features include its original louvered ventilation cupola with flared roof, extended eaves and brackets, and pebble-dashed stucco coating on the concrete walls.

The Garage and Stables and the Chauffeur’s Cottage accommodated the use of automobiles, horses and carriages and, in concert with the estate’s location near the new British Columbia Electric Railway Burnaby Lake interurban line, illustrate the evolving nature of regional transportation and the growing bedroom communities and estates made possible by increasing options for transportation.

Marker for Chauffeur’s Cottage and Garage and Stables

The two-storey, wood frame Garage and Stables, situated to the north of the Chauffeur’s Cottage, its distinctive Arts and Crafts architectural features include the shingle wall cladding articulated with a chevron-patterned course of shingles at the first floor level, multi-paned wooden-sash casement windows (some retaining original wired glass), and deep eaves with additional purlins to support the overhang.  Its stable doors, with hand-made forged-iron door hardware, are still original.

Stables and Garage

The long, narrow single-storey Chauffeur’s Cottage, situated across from the main entrance to the Ceperley mansion, adjacent to the Garage and Stables, was constructed by joining together two modest estate cottages.

Chauffer’s Cottage

Its distinctive Arts and Crafts architectural features include the jerkin-headed door hood, a reference to the thatched-roofed cottages of southern England, eight-paned wooden-sash casement windows, and cedar-shingled exterior.  The modest, functional interior, with simple trim and lack of pretension, had two internal brick chimneys.

Steam Plant Building

The single-storey wood-frame Steam Plant building, built from 1907 to 1908, had a gabled roof that originally housed the apparatus for climate control in the greenhouse (formerly located to its north).  It was significantly altered in the 1960s and restored to its original design in 2000.

Steam Plant Building

Adjacent to it is the original rubblestone walls that formed the foundation for the greenhouse. It had six-paned wooden-sash casement windows and its distinctive Arts and Crafts architectural features include the shingle wall cladding with decorative shingling under window sills, deep eaves, and pebble-dashed concrete foundation walls.

Kiln Station

The remaining formal Edwardian garden landscape elements include the cross-axial plan that reflects the relationship of the mansion to its outdoor rooms. Its grounds also included horse stables, an aviary, gazebo and pergola, lagoons, strawberry fields, greenhouses, a kiln station and a gardener’s cottage.  On November 23, 1992, Fairacres Mansion was designated as a Heritage Site.

Check out “Heritage Buildings of Burnaby”

Fairacres Mansion: 6344 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby V5G 213, British Columbia, Canada. Tel: (604) 297-4422.  Fax: (604) 205-7339.  E-mail: gallery@burnaby.ca.  Website: www.burnabyartgallery.ca. Open Tuesdays to Fridays, 10 AM to 4:30 PM, and Saturdays and Sundays, 12 noon to 5 PM. Admission is free (a C$5 donation is suggested).

How to Get There: Bus 144 Metrotown runs from the Burnaby Lake SkyTrain Station to the mansion.  By car, take Sprott St. Exit, drive straight through Canada Way, past Burnaby City Hall and Central High School, turn left into Deer Lake Ave.  The mansion is at the top of the hill on your right.

Century Gardens (Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Century Gardens

Century Gardens, within the northern border of Deer Lake Park, near the neighborhoods of Buckingham Heights and Middlegate, was a originally a Mixed Style Victorian garden made for the mock Tudor-style Fairacres Mansion (now Burnaby Art Gallery).

Check out “Burnaby Art Gallery,” “Fairacres Mansion” and “Deer Lake Park”

 

The single best place in the city to admire and celebrate Burnaby’s official flower (adopted as the official emblem in August 1966), this circular garden, with a path system, has over 2,000 rhododendrons that burst into bloom in spring (March to July).

One of two developed rhododendron gardens (the other are plantings on Burnaby Mountain along Centennial Way) dedicated on June 18, 1967, in celebration of the 100th anniversary of the Canadian Confederation, it features the developments of some of the Pacific Northwest’s accomplished rhododendron growers.

A garden within displays each of the winning plants, as well as samples of all the competition entries, of the May 1992 Burnaby Rhododendron Festival  (the festival was first held in 1989).  The winner was John Lofthouse (his plant developments are extremely well known) and honorable mention went to Gene Round (an accomplished grower).

Water feature

The winning entry was the R. Burnaby Centennial, a “Leona” x “Etta Burrows” cross.  The compact truss consists of 14 to 16, five-lobed flowers which are raspberry red in color centered with a lighter red stamen, style and black anthers.  Foliage is pointed, medium in size and shiny, dark green in color.

Camperdown Elm (Ulmus glabra camperdownii)

A new entrance to the garden features Hak Chu/Pak Chu, supersized concrete replicas of white Pak Chu and black Hak Chu, public art created by Vancouver born and raised Nathan Lee in 2000.  It is based on fan-tan (translated as “repeated spreading out”), a game, long played in China, based on pure luck and randomness.

Fairacres Mansion (now Burnaby Art Gallery) in the background

It involves using hak-chu and pak-chu as counters (where white pieces are worth one-fifth the value of the black pieces).  In the 1990s, a single white pak chu was discovered under the Fairacres Cottage, indicating an early Chinese community on this site.

Hak Chu/Pak Chu (Nathan Lee, 2000)

Century Gardens is also lined with numerous varieties of colorful flowers, including an extensive rose garden.  This flower paradise can be viewed from the wooden boardwalk that encircles Deer Lake Park. The annual Burnably Rhododendron Festival includes guided rhododendron and perennial walks in Century Gardens.

Century Gardens: 6344 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby V5G 213, British Columbia, Canada.

How to Get There: Bus 144 Metrotown runs from the Burnaby Lake SkyTrain Station to the gardens.  By car, take Sprott St. Exit, drive straight through Canada Way, past Burnaby City Hall and Central High School, turn left into Deer Lake Ave.  The Fairacres Mansion is at the top of the hill on your right.  Beside it is the garden.

Deer Lake Park (Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Deer Lake Park

On the late afternoon of our 12th day in Vancouver, my daughter Cheska brought my wife Grace, my son Jandy, grandson Kyle and I to tranquil,  207-hectare Deer Lake Park, a 5.5-km. (12-min.) drive away, where we were to have a picnic dinner with  some U.S. friends.  From Sperling Ave., we parked at a lot closer to Deer Lake beach area.  Right across were two tables with benches where we had our picnic. An accessible washroom is located on the east side of the lake, near the parking area.

Parking lot along Sperling Ave.

Nearby, on the east end of Deer Lake, is a sandy public beach for play, along with swings for children. Plus, there’s a dock where you can launch small boats, like kayaks and canoes during the spring through the fall season. Those arriving with a kayak or canoe on their car top carrier, can launch it from the dock. From the dock, (on the western edge of the park), at 5435 Sperling Ave., there’s also Deer Lake Rental, a rental service for non-motorized watercraft such as rowboats and pedal boats as well as canoes and kayaks.

Deer Lake Park Map

Europeans who came here, not having seen caribou before, called the caribou “deer,” Caribou, in great numbers, could be seen crossing the lake from north to south, hence the name Deer Lake (the park’s namesake).

Boat Launch Dock

Situated in the central heart of the city, Deer Lake, along with Burnaby Lake, is home to resident populations of wildlife like many species of ducks, song birds (flitting through the meadows), otters and, just maybe, beavers (hard at work building dams in the marshy areas to the west of the lake) which one might glimpse them as one walks or runs along the trails that circle the lake’s 2.4-km. perimeter.

Deer Lake Rentals

You can also climb the wildlife viewing tower, near the southwest corner of the lake, to watch for endangered Western painted turtles sunning themselves on logs or basking on rocks in the ponds.

Deer Lake Rentals

Year-round resident birds in the park include red-tail hawks (circling the sky for prey below), black capped chickadee, spotted towhee, majestic great blue herons (fishing in the shallows), Anna’s hummingbird, Bewick’s Wren and Stellar’s Jay.  Summer breeding birds include Northern Harrier, March Wren, Cedar Waxwing, Swainson’s Thrush, Common Yellowthroat and American Goldfinch.  Winter & Migratory birds at Deer Lake Park include Dark Eyes Junco, Ruby Crowned Kinglet, Hermit Thrush, Yellow-rumped Warbler and Mountain Bluebird.

Kayaks for rent

The temperate rainforest, the vegetation natural to the area, is dominated by trees considered particularly tall for the Lower Mainland, with conifers such as Western hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla), Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii), and Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata). Deer Lake and the surrounding park is a highly altered habitat and while cutthroat trout, rainbow trout, stickleback, sculpin and crayfish were likely native to Deer Lake, most of the aquatic animals are introduced species and invasive species include bullfrog, ictalurid catfish and carp.

Deer Lake Beach House

Beaver Creek, flowing under the wooden boardwalk, is used by fish for feeding and as a refuge from predators such as larger fish, mink, otters, herons, and kingfishers. Young Coho salmon use this stream as they grow before their journey to the ocean. Most of the wetlands along Beaver Creek are wet meadows and open water pond area, and a remnant bog area on the Western lakeshore. Trees that can tolerate these wet conditions are Sitka Spruce, Birch, Willow hardhack, Sweet gale, Black twinberry, Dwarf dogwood, Labrador tea, Salmonberry, Sedges and Bulrushes.

Deer Lake Beach House plaque

To the north of Deer Lake, you’ll find Burnaby’s cultural centre for art and culture – Burnaby Art Gallery (located Fairacres Mansion at 6344 Deer Lake Ave.),  Shadbolt Centre for the Arts (just a short ways further down the road at 6450 Deer Lake Ave.), Burnaby Village Museum (an excellent outdoor museum at the northeast corner of the park at 6501 Deer Lake Ave.) and more. It’s a hub of activity during the busy summer season, hosting concerts and festivals on the Festival Lawn.  The park is also home to Burnaby Village and Hart House (a historic building and present-day restaurant at 6664 Deer Lake Ave.).

Check out  “Fairacres Mansion,” “Burnaby Art Gallery,” “Burnaby Village Museum” and “Shadbolt Centre for the Arts“

Located in Central Burnaby, not far from Burnaby City Hall and halfway between Burnaby Lake and Metrotown, it is one of Metro Vancouver’s largest and most popular city parks, with walking trails and wide open spaces, and is a very popular area for birding and running (you’ll likely encounter other people while exploring).

Even if the skyscrapers of Metrotown rise above the lake, Deer Lake Park still provides a unique nature escape in the middle of Burnaby. It’s a great place for hiking, boating, spotting wildlife, and learning about history and culture.  Just below the Burnaby Art Gallery, the Deer Lake Park Festival Lawn is an ideal spot for a picnic on the grass or at the picnic tables near the wide paved path leading to Deer Lake.

The lake itself, in the middle of the park, has a lovely, mostly finely crushed gravel and hard packed dirt (in some parts it’s a wooden boardwalk) main walking trail along the water’s edge and through the forest (this map shows all the trails and their surfaces). Some of the paths may be too steep for some users and tree roots crossing the trail also pose a tripping hazard.  Dogs are welcome, but must be on a leash.

The park offers a variety of many connecting trails (open year-round and beautiful to visit anytime and routes (more of an outdoor urban walk than a hike) that surround the lake:

  • Deer Lake Loop Route
  • Hart House Mini Route
  • Oakland Flats
  • Royal Oak Meadow Route

Wooden Boardwalk

You can do a small loop which runs around the edge of the lake for most of the way and takes about 35 mins., depending on how fast you walk.  You can go past the end of the lake though and continue on the larger loop (which takes about 45 mins.) which then makes its way back to the lake and the last part of the smaller loop. Doing both loops, considered an easy route, in a figure eight (where you walk along the middle section twice on your way round), is about 4.5 to 5 kms. long and takes 55 mins to an hour or so, from start to finish. Bikes are not permitted on wooden boardwalks.

Dirt and crushed gravel trail

A number of annual events take place at Deer Lake Park.  They include the following:

Canada goose

The park was a nice place for families with small kids, folks looking for a nice nature trip, or a good loop outside (if you are short on time). To enjoy the gardens in bloom, visit Deer Lake Park in spring. To enjoy many different flowers (including rhododendron, Burnaby’s official flower), visit Century Garden, next to the Burnaby Art Gallery, or the city-owned Eagles Estate Heritage Garden, on the southeastern shore of the lake, which dates back to 1929 and includes Japanese maples, rhododendrons, and magnolias.

Check out “Century Gardens“

Sunset over Deer Lake

Deer Lake Park: 5435 Sperling Ave., Burnaby, British Columbia V5E 2L8.  Tel: (604) 294-7450.

How to Get There: From Vancouver, take Highway 1 east. Use exit 33 to Kensington Avenue. Turn left on Canada Way. then right on Sperling. There are several options for parking. Continue on Sperling for another block to a large parking area. Or turn right onto Deer Lake Avenue. This road runs through the east side of the park and leads to parking areas on the southeast shore of Deer Lake next to the Burnaby Village Museum, the Shadbolt Centre for the Arts, and the Burnaby Art Gallery.  This map shows the parking areas noted below. The Shadbolt Centre for the Arts, Burnaby Art Gallery and Burnaby Village Museum parking lots are accessible from Deer Lake Ave. There is a parking lot on the west side of the park off Royal Oak Ave.  Parking isn’t permitted in the residential areas around Deer Lake Park.  Parking lots close at 10 PM every night.  Get directions or visit TransLink Trip Planner.

Deer Lake Rentals: Website: www.deerlakeboatrentals.com. Tel:  604-839-3949.

  • Kayak Charges: 1-person kayak ($16.07 plus taxes per hour, maximum total weight should be 350 lbs. or 160 kgs.), 2-person kayak ($19.64 plus taxes per hour, maximum total weight should be 450 lbs. or 205 kgs.)
  • Rowboat & Canoe Charges: 2-person rowboat ($19.64 plus taxes per hour, maximum total weight should be 400 lbs. or 180 kgs.), 2-3-person canoe ($19.64 plus taxes per hour, maximum total weight should be 500 lbs. or 230 kgs.), 4-person canoe ($31.25 plus taxes per hour, maximum total weight should be 850 lbs. or 390 kgs.)
  • Pedal Boat Charges: 2-person pedal boat ($19.64 plus taxes per hour, maximum total weight should be 600 lbs. or 270 kgs.), 4-person pedal boat $31.25 plus taxes per hour, maximum total weight should be 850 lbs. or 390 kgs.)

Dry bag rental is $1 per hour.  Last rental is 1 hour before sunset. The last 1.2 hr rental is 1/2 hour before sunset.

Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology (SFU, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology

On our 8th day in Vancouver, Jandy and I and decided to visit Simon Fraser University (SFU) and its Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology (MAE),  From Holdom Station, we took the Millenium SkyTrain to Production Way Station where we boarded the No. 145 bus.

Frog Constellation (James Hart)

Upon alighting at the SFU transit loop, next to the Blusson Building (there was a big sign outside identifying it), we walked over to the nearby Saywell Building.

Museum exhibits

Entering the building, we noticed that finding the museum was a challenge which can be as much of an experience as exploring the museum itself.

The Cultural Traditions Exhibit

We had to ask a student for directions.   The museum was actually one floor below, in a courtyard beside the museum entrance. Taking the stairs down, we were greeted huge, wonderful wooden frog carving called Frog Constellation.

Coast Salish Housepost

Carved in 2005 by Haida artist James Hart, a chief from Haida Gwaii, he is one of the most accomplished artists currently working in the Northwest Coast style.  The carving is his tribute to a small shamanic piece carved by an unknown Haida artist on the Northwest coast in the 1870s.

Bella Coola Mortuary Figure

The small but well-curated Simon Fraser University Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology (MAE) collects, researches, and exhibits archaeological and ethnological artifacts from around the world with a focus on British Columbia.

Barkcloth Mask

The MAE is closely affiliated with the Department of Archaeology at Simon Fraser University. Archaeological collections arising from excavations and other research by faculty, staff, and students are housed in the museum.

Argillite carvings, from prominent Haida artists, featuring iconographic images of animals and people from Haida culture.  Displayed on totem poles, serving wear or as statues, they are part of a collection of over 80 pieces donated to the university by a private donor in 2011.

In scope or depth, this museum doesn’t compare to the anthropology museum at the University of British Columbia.  On the other hand, it’s free (though you can make a donation). Though small, it was filled of information with artifacts explained in great detail.  We probably spent an enjoyable 30-40 minutes or so in this gorgeous little museum.

Haida Mortuary Pole

The Northwest Coast Monumental Sculptures (“Totem Poles”) Exhibit displays monumental cedar sculptures from the northern, central and south coast of British Columbia, exhibited here through the generosity of the Royal BC Museum in Victoria, that illustrate the varied artistic traditions of the First Nations of the BC Coast. The centerpiece of the Museum’s collection is the giant aforementioned “Frog Constellation.”

Figure from Palembei Village, Sepik River Region, Papua New Guinea

Displays include First Nations carved poles, monumental sculptures illustrating the varied artistic traditions of the First Nations of the BC coast.  There are also canoes, ceremonial regalia, woven baskets, etc.

Lightning Serpent (Peter Webster, ca. 1970s, cedar)

The NAMU Profile: 9,700 Years of Human Occupation Exhibit, their most remarkable permanent exhibit, is a profile section of an excavation trench from the 1977 field school at the Namu site on the British Columbia central coast, an archaeological record that spans nearly 10,000 years.

Profile Section of Excavation Trench

Automatic Level ca. 1960s

The profile section that is on display in the museum represents about 5,000 years of cultural and natural accumulations.   Evidence of nearly continuous use at the site has been found and separated into six general periods of use.

Killer Whale/Wolf Transfornmation Mask (Pat Amos, 2012, cedar)

The profile on display shows Periods 2 (6000 BP – 5000 BP) through 5 (3500 BP – 2000 BP).  Though the profile on display was removed in 1977, excavations at the site continued in 1978 and 1994; many of the artifacts from these excavations appear in more than just the Namu exhibit itself.

Inuit Dolls

The Rock Art: Petroglyphs and Pictographs Exhibit includes the museum’s collection is rock art from the Lillooet area of BC.  Looking up, we also found stunning photographs, taken in 1972 by Philip Hobler, of the Jump-Across-Creek rock art.

Jump-Across-Creek rock art (Philip Hobler)

The photographs are complimented by the large carved stones, on display near the front door, which were collected between 1929 and 1960 from the Lillooet area, from the mouth of Eleven Mile Creek.

Petroglyphs

The designs were pecked or ground into the rock, either by a piece of sharp stone, by chiseling the rock using a hammerstone to deliver blows to a stone chisel, or by abrading the surface of the rock with a piece of harder stone. Motifs depicted on this rock include a number of faces, anthropomorphic figures and numerous lines and depressions.

Tsimshian Pole Section (Kitsegukla, 1953)

The Cultural Traditions Exhibit displays objects that showcase the rich history, cultural traditions and enduring vitality of the indigenous First Nations living in the Pacific Northwest Coast which extends from the Northern California coast to the Alaskan Panhandle.

Salish House Post from House at Quamichan

The Hunt and Gather: An Interactive Geocaching Activity, an interactive exhibition, incorporates objects and artifacts, museum displays and puzzles in a fun “treasure hunt” game meant to celebrate the diversity of the Museum’s collections.  In addition to learning about Geocaching, this exhibit is a fun, informative and interactive way to explore the museum.

Headdress worn by women of the Akha hill tribes of Northern Thailand which is adorned with five coins (the Indian rupee in the middle is relatively valuable); red, white, blue and yellow plastic beads and aluminum-like balls.  Stitching on the inside is done by machine.

The collection includes artifacts from around the world — masks from Africa; Indonesian shadow puppets; bamboo scrolls from Asia; spears and atlatls from various continents and periods of history; tiny Bolivian dolls and West Coast artifacts. Not a large collection but well worth the time to look at everything.

Nuu-Chai-Nuulth House Post

There were also a number of temporary exhibits.  The “Into the World: A journey through the photographic collection of the SFU Museum of Archaeology & Ethnology” gives a glimpse into the fascinating world of archaeology and ethnology through the extensive photographic collection of our museum.

Into the World: A journey through the photographic collection of the SFU Museum of Archaeology & Ethnology

“The Franklin Exploration,” a bilingual travelling pop-up exhibit, from the Vancouver Maritime Museum, on the archaeology of the HMS Erebus and HMS Terror, was developed by Parks Canada and the ROM.

The Franklin Eploration

“Beyond The Mask: The Fluidity of the West African Experience,” created by Jazmin Hundal and Melissa Rollit, features eight out of the dozens of masks from the region of West Africa housed at the SFU Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology that stand out in their ability to convey something essential about the human experience.

Beyond The Mask: The Fluidity of the West African Experience

“Canoes, Waterways, Lifeways” offer insights into the history of Pacific Northwest Coast canoes by showing how different styles were built and used in the various territories within the region. Sometimes, especially in the case of older styles, models are all we have to learn from.

Canoes, Waterways, Lifeways

“Historic Glass,” created by Kristen McLaughlin, focuses on a selection of historic glass bottles from the collections that have been in use in Canada since the late 1800s into more modern times. These tell us more about the medicine, beverages, food, and glass-making methods of the past.

Historic Glass

“Aksum’s Treasures: Reminders of an Ancient Civilization,” created by Jurian ter Horst, uses contemporary photographs to tell the stories of the treasures (granite monoliths, several churches, etc.) in the ancient town of Aksum, Ethiopia

Aksum’s Treasures: Reminders of an Ancient Civilization

“Plains Regalia,” created by Tiinesha Begaye and Hilary Pennock for SFU’s 50th anniversary in 2015, is an exhibit of a magnificent Plains beaded costume purchased from an antique shop in Calgary in 1972 by Dr. Roy Carlson.

Beaded Buckskin Regalia (Alberta)

Hilary and Tiinesha cleaned the costume, repaired the beading, modified a mannequin to conservation standards, mounted the costume on the mannequin and wrote the interpretive text for the large display.

Bentwood Chest (Larry Rosso, 1975)

“Pacific Northwest Bentwood Boxes,” created by Dr. Barbara Winter, features often elaborately carved and painted Bentwood boxes and chests created by Northwest Coast artists which speaks to the cultural longevity of indigenous peoples of this area.

Bentwood Box (Larry Campbell, 2011)

“Asmat Shields,” created by Sarah Fox and Jennifer Halliday, features shields, topped with an image of the ancestor the shield was created to represent, that were originally created for use in reprisal raids by the Asmat of Indonesia. Due to traditional headhunting practices being outlawed, the shields are now created as art pieces.

Asmat Shields (Jamasji)

“Ancient Writing,” created by Duncan McLeod, showcases a collection of a variety of different texts from China, to Indonesia and the Middle East, offering insights of ancient cultures from the texts they left behind, in all their assorted forms.

Ancient Writing

Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology: Northeast corner of the Academic Quarter, Saywell Atrium, off Saywell Hall, 8888 University Drive, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, British Columbia  V5A 1S6. Tel: (778) 782-3325 and (778) 782-3135. E-mail: museum@sfu.ca.  Website: www.sfu.ca/archaeology/museum.html. Admission is free. Open Tuesdays to Thursdays, 10 AM to 2 PM.

How to Get There:

By Public Transportation:

  • #95 bus: From the Burrard Street SkyTrain Station downtown by way of Hastings Street
  • #144 bus: From Metrotown Station
  • #145 bus: From Production Way SkyTrain Station
  • Millennium SkyTrain Line – get off at Production Way, then take #145 bus.

By Car:

  • From Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) — take the Gaglardi Way Exit 37.
  • From Lougheed Highway (Highway 7) — turn (north) onto Gaglardi Way.
  • From Hastings Street (Highway 7A) going east — take the right lane exit onto Burnaby Mountain Parkway.

The closest parking lot to the museum is the North Parking Lot. It is paid parking.

Victory Square (Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Victory Square and Cenotaph

Victory Square, bordered by West Hastings Street to the northeast, West Pender Street to the southwest, Cambie Street to the southeast, and Hamilton Street to the northwest, stands at the intersection of the old Granville town site (AKA Gastown) and the CPR Town site, which was the downtown-designated land grant obtained by the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) as part of the deal to locate the terminus and thereby found the city (the corner of Hastings and Hamilton is the northern tip of the CPR Townsite).

Check out “Gastown”

Hastings Street Side

The site of the Cenotaph is significant. In 1914, because of the strong royalist sentiment in the city, it was at tables at the foot of the old courthouse steps where enlistees signed up for the First World War.  The maple trees on the Pender Street side of the park are the oldest street trees in the city, planted in 1897.

Hamilton Street Side

It was, at one time, the grounds of the city’s provincial courthouse, which was torn down in 1911–13 when the new Francis Rattenbury-designed courthouse along Georgia Street was opened (now the Vancouver Art Gallery). The term is also used to refer to the neighborhood immediately surrounding the square.

Check out “Vancouver Art Gallery”

Pender Street Side

Here’s the historical timeline of the square:

  • On February 13, 1886, an area of 3,600 sq. m. (0.9acres) out of the1.9 sq. km. (480 acres) allotted to the CPR was held aside as “Government Square.” The southwest corner of Hamilton and Hastings Streets is where L. A. Hamilton drove the first survey stake to commence laying out the street system for the city.
  • On 27 April 1924, the Victory Square Cenotaph was unveiled by His Worship William Reid Owen (Mayor of Vancouver), in the presence of an assemblage of 25,000 persons; naval, military and civilian, and including the Old Contemptibles, 7th British Columbia, 29th Vancouver (its chaplain, Major Cecil C. Owen M.B.E., V.D., D.D., dedicated the cenotaph), 72nd Seaforths, 2nd Canadian Mounted Rifles, 47th New Westminster, and 102nd North British Columbian Battalions, CEF, and others.

Pillar at Hastings Street side is decorated with a long sword and is engraved with the inscription “Their name liveth forevermore”and is kept continuously banked high with wreaths of flowers and adorned with national flags

The approximately 9.1 m. (30 ft.) tall, triangular (its shape conforms to that of the square) Victory Square Cenotaph , the Vancouver war memorial, was designed thus by Maj. G.L. Thornton Sharp (architect, town planner and park commissioner).  The 24-man (12 represented the Canadian Club of Vancouver and 12 the Civic War Memorial Committee) Vancouver War Memorial Committee, under the chairmanship of pioneer F.W. Rounsefell, Esq. (with J.R.V. Dunlop, of the Canadian Club, as honorary secretary), were the public-spirited sponsors.

Wreath at the base of the Hastings Street side

The word “cenotaph” (an empty tomb in memory of one buried elsewhere) is derived from the Greek word kenos (meaning “empty”) and taphos (meaning “tomb”).  The focus of the city’s annual Remembrance Day services, the Cenotaph lies at the foot of a gentle slope on the northern side of the square, on a plaza flanking Hastings Street. It is so placed that, when approached from the east, it appears in the distance centrally at the end of busy Hastings Street.

Wreath at Pender Street side

Made with gray Nelson Island granite (supplied by the Vancouver Granite Co., Ltd.), cost $10,666 and was erected by contractors Stewart who died from the effects of an accident whilst preparing the memorial) and Wylie. The pillar is engraved with suitable inscriptions and is kept continuously banked high with wreaths of flowers and adorned with national flags.

Inscription at Pender Street side that reads “All ye that pass by”

The stone ornamentations include one long sword and two wreaths (one of laurels, the other of poppies), both entwined with maple leaves.  The three corner buttresses are adorned by a stone replica of the steel helmet, as used in the war of 1914–1918.  The numerals “1914–1918,” at the base of the front, surrounds a larger wreath of laurels.

World War I helmet

A receptacle of three bronze maple leaves has slots that hold the staffs of the Union Jack, the Canadian Red Ensign, the Flag of Canada, the White Ensign, and RCAF Ensign, always flying, which are placed there by the Royal Canadian Legion and the Royal Commonwealth Ex-Services League, and renewed four times each year.

Sun Tower

One monument side faces busy Hastings Street (engraved inscription: “Their name liveth for evermore” and, within a stone wreath, “1914–1918″), the others Pender (engraved inscription: “All ye that pass by”) and Hamilton Streets (engraved inscription: “Is it nothing to you“). It is so placed that, when approached from the east, it appears in the distance centrally at the end of Hastings Street.

Flack Block (Copp Building)

Several historic buildings adjacent to Victory Square include the 13-storey, 53-m. (175 ft.) high, Second Empire-style Dominion Building (completed in 1910); the four-storey, Romanesque Revival-style Flack Block (or Copp Building, completed in 1900) and the 17 storey, 82 m. (269 ft.) high, Beaux-Arts-style Sun Tower (completed in 1912).

Dominion Building

Victory Square: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.

Barnet Marine Park (Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Barnet Marine Park

On our fourth day in Vancouver, we drove 6.6 kms. to Barnet Marine Park, a small but beautiful and popular waterfront park, where we were to enjoy an afternoon outdoor picnic with family while sitting back taking and watching the action on the south shore of the spectacular, tanker-dotted Burrard Inlet (here’s a map of the picnic area).

A tanker at Burrard Inlet

As it was a sunny weekend, the main parking lot was already filled so we parked at the overflow parking above the highway right next to the Air Mountain Bike Park.

Located right along the north end base of Burnaby Mountain and across Burrard Inlet from Cates Park and Vancouver’s North Shore, on an important harvesting, gathering and processing site for the Coast Salish peoples, as well as the site of a century-old logging mill camp, this spectacular foreshore park, Burnaby’s only official saltwater beach, is perfect for a stroll and has ocean and mountain views. Although small in size, the park feels large as it is long and narrow, stretching for about 1.5 kms. along the waterfront.

 

Barnet was formerly a thriving logging community of the North Pacific Lumber Company (later the Barnet Lumber Company), one of the largest sawmills in the British Empire.  Established in 1889 (at the site of a new C.P.R. station), David MacLaren (the owner) named it “Barnet” after his wife’s family.

Foundation of Mill Wood Scrap Burner

Due to the Great Depression, the mill closed in 1931 and reopened in 1939 as the Kapoor Sawmills.  Destroyed by fire in 1946, plans to rebuild the mill to its former scale never materialized.  The community started to fade when the small replacement mill was finally dismantled in 1958.

Mill Wood Scrap Burner

Here, you can still see traces of the once prosperous mill such as the mill’s scrap burner as well as the concrete and brick foundations nearby.

Remains of Old Wharf

On the water are the remains of the old wharf (where processed timber bound for American and Asian ports was loaded), its pylons now nesting sites for birds.

Aside from the picnic (some in the shade) site, it has a designated dog off-leash area  allowing our dog Luffy to get some exercise. We had to keep your dog leashed everywhere else in the park (you also have to pick up after your dog and drop our waste bag in the designated bins). For sanitary reasons, they aren’t allowed on the beach. The sandier beach areas of the off-leash dog area are at the far west end of the park.

Sandy Beach

Rocky Beach

Along the shore are both rocky and nice sandy (at the far western end) beaches. The most popular beach is at the far eastern end as it’s closer to the parking lots and has both grassy and sandy areas.  Wildlife to be found here includes seals, crabs, geese and herons.

Geese

To enjoy a relaxing meal or a quick bite, there’s Park Cafe. Propane barbeques and charcoal and open-flame barbeques are also allowed at this park (you have to use the on-site ash pits to safely dispose of hot ashes).

Park Cafe

Accessible washrooms and changing rooms are located in the concession building, open year-round.  There are also outdoor showers for swimmers.

Concesson Building

Barnet Marine Park is an excellent spot to enjoy fishing from shore (just make sure you have a license). To explore the sheltered waters of Indian Arm or the Burrard Inlet, you can launch canoes, kayaks and sailing craft on the rocky or sandy beach.

Motorboat at Burrard Inlet

On the rocky beach, Cheska, Bryan and Kyle went paddleboarding but they had to carry everything down to the beach.

Bryan (with Kyle) and Cheska paddleboarding off the rocky beach

Trails here are either paved or crushed limestone, with benches available throughout. I traversed the length of Drummond’s Walk, a peaceful foreshore and upland walk named after former Mayor Douglas P. Drummond (1996-2002) in April 2006.

Start of Drummond’s Walk

Plaque

It was his favorite place to exercise. This flat and easy trail, suitable for all ages and fitness levels, runs 1,5 kms. from one end of the park to the other.

Drummond’s Walk

Along the path, I encountered grassy lawns and a large and impressive off-leash dog zone that includes multiple waterfront beaches. Here’s a map showing all the paths in the park.

Watching tankers go by at Drummond’s Walk

Barnet Marine Park: 8181 Barnet Rd, Burnaby, BC V5A 3G8, British Columbia. General inquiries: 604-294-7450. E-mail: parksrecandculture@burnaby.ca. Website: www.burnaby.ca/explore-outdoors/parks/barnet-marine-park. Open from 7 am and closes at dusk between April and October. During May to September, the closing time changes with the increase in daylight hours. Park Café is open Friday to Sunday on ‘good weather’ days in the summer, 11:30 AM -6:30 PM.  If the weather looks wet and cold, call 604-297-4888 to confirm if the café is open. Since January 1, 2022, smoking has been banned in all City parks and multi-use paths.

Parking: the main parking lot (download map) is located on the south side of the rail line. The north (beach) side of the rail line is pedestrian only. Don’t park on the rail line. There are 6 accessible parking stalls located east of the park entrance, closest to the beach. Additional accessible parking stalls and surface parking are available to the east and west of park entrance on a first come, first served basis.

Additional parking is available farther to the west of the park entrance and on the other side of Barnet Rd where the Mountain Air Bike Skills Course (an incredible bike skills park located just across the Barnet Highway, it features an outdoor wood pump track for beginners to advanced mountain bikers that’s free to the public) is located. Accessible parking stalls at beach levelare available Monday to Friday, 9 AM-7 PM until September 1, 2023 (excluding statutory holidays). To check availability and obtain access, call park staff at 604-319-7083. Due to safety and operational concerns when the park is very busy, all beach-level parking (including accessible parking) are not available on weekends and statutory holidays.

How to Get There: The park is about 10 kms. (a 30-min. drive) from downtown Vancouver, and a 10-min. drive from Port Moody. Travel east on Hastings Street. Keep left on Inlet Dr/Barnet Rd and turn left onto the park at Takeda Drive. Get directions.

Fort San Antonio Abad (Manila)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Fort San Antonio Abad

Relatively unknown to many, Manila has another Spanish-era fort, aside from the well-known Fort Santiago, located south of Intramuros and this one is not easy to visit as it is located within the confines of the high-security Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (BSP)  Complex – the 1.2-hectare, trapezoid-shaped  and equally historic but hidden Fort San Antonio Abad.

Exploring the fort with our guides

Considering its current location, tightly sandwiched between the imposing main tower of the BSP and the old Manila Metropolitan Museum  Building (now transferred to its new home at Bonifacio Global City in Taguig City), the fort is understandably overlooked these days.

Check out “Metropolitan Museum of Manila”

Stairs leading up to the ramparts

Visits to the fort are by appointment and my son Jandy and I had to arrange our visit in advance via email.  It was only upon approval of our request that we were allowed to proceed to the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas Complex.  Upon registering ourselves, we met up with our guides, Ms. Regyn Avena and Mr. Lauro E. de los Santos, Jr. who were to tour us around the fort.

The view of the South Wall from the East Bastion

Also known as Fort Malate or Fort San Antonio, this fortification was completed in 1584 and named in honor of its patron saint, Saint Anthony the Abbot (feast day: January 17).   Like the walled city, the fort evolved into a variety of stone fortress popularized by renowned French military architect Sebastien Le Prestre de Vauban, with two signature bastions at the corners of the canted walls.

The canted South Wall

Though relatively small in size, it certainly occupies a significant place in the history of Manila as it played a role in three great conflicts – the Seven Years’ War,e vents prior and during the Philippine–American War and World War II.  Located in what was then a separate hamlet of Malate, the fort served as a rear protection for the Manila as well as to guard the Manila–Cavite route.

The West Bastion at the North Wall

The Spanish used the fort as a polvorista (“little fortress” or gunpowder magazine to safely store gunpowder) known as Fuerte de Polverina.  On September 26, 1762, during the Seven Years’ War, it was captured by British forces under Rear-Admiral Samuel Cornish and Brigadier-General William Draper when they invaded Manila. They transformed the fort into a garrison, setting up an artillery battery.  From here, the British forces launched their land offensive against the Spaniards defending Intramuros.

The exquisitely designed North Entrance

On March 26, 1764, upon the end of the British occupation of Manila, the fort was returned to Spanish control and rebuilt, again becoming a gunpowder storage facility. On August 13, 1898, after bombardment by U.S. warships during the sham Battle of Manila, the fort was captured and the first American flag hoisted by the First Battalion of the First Colorado Volunteer Regiment under the command of Lt.-Col. Henry Bayard McCoy.

The grassy courtyard. On the left are the square embrasures

Also, during the Philippine–American War, U.S. military authorities used the prison to carry out multiple executions by hanging. Harry Cline, an American civilian under the employment of the United States Army, was the first American to be executed by U.S. authorities after he shot, with a revolver, four small Filipino boys from Parañaque gathering grass, wounding three and killing the fourth (Agaton Rivera) on April 8, 1901. Cline was tried by an American military court, found guilty of murder and three counts of assault with intent to kill, and sentenced to death by hanging which was carried out  on September 20, 1901.

The fort ramparts

During World War II, Fort San Antonio Abad was seized by occupying Japanese  troops and it was used as a bunker, with a cannon installed. During the Liberation of Manila, the fort suffered considerable damage.  After World War II, the very young Offshore Patrol, with the Manila Naval Station (MNS) as its main support unit, set up its headquarters at the fort. They vacated the place in 1965.

The now unused well with windlass

On June 1974, coinciding with the establishment of the new main office complex of the BSP, the restoration of the fort was again started (the first restoration was at the beginning of the 19th century) by Architect Carlos E. Da Silva, during the term of former Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas Gov. Gregorio S. Licaros, and completed in 1976.

1976 Restoration Plaque

This battle-weary and proud structure is now a beautiful little park and events place with paved walkways and street lamps. Where guards once stood, there are now roaming gardeners keeping the manicured garden trim. Within the garden is a now unused well with a windlass for raising water.

National Historical Treasure plaque

In 2018, together with Intramuros (collectively known as the “Fortifications of Manila”), the fort was named a National Cultural Treasure (NCT), for their architectural, historical, scientific and archaeological significance, by the National Museum of the Philippines. Both forts were essential parts of the defense of Spanish Colonial Manila and scientifically important in terms of military and structural engineering. The NCT marker is now installed there and in Plaza Roma in Intramuros.

The unadorned south entrance. In my opinion, this entrance seems like a recent addition as there as its walls show no signs of weathering

At the fort’s south entrance, two historical plaques (the 1976 renovation plaque and the NCT plaque) are mounted.  A Historical Research and Markers Committee (now the National Historical Commission of the Philippines) marker, installed  in 1937, is mounted on the wall to the right of this entrance, is topped by a semicircular arch niche, flanked by Doric columns, with an antique wooden statue of St. Anthony Abbot within.

Niche with statue of St. Anthony Abbot

In turn, the niche is framed by a decorative moldings ending in scrolls. The original segmental arched main entrance of the fort, with its quaint iron gate, faces north.  This latter entrance is decorated with a bas-relief of the traditional Spanish coat of arms of Leon (the lion) and Castille (the castle) and topped by finials.

Bas-relief bearing the Spanish coat of arms at the North Entrance

The fort can be quickly explored in less than half an hour. At the lower level of the fort are a series of square embrasures, openings in fort’s walls where cannons can be fired.  These openings, flared outward to enlarge their field of fire, once faced the sea but are now facing the back of the museum.

One of the fort’s embrasures

You can walk around the entire wall perimeter via very narrow, 2-foot wide ramparts which can be reached via stone steps. Standing on either side of the fort, on arrowhead-shaped bulwarks (East and West), are two large, sea-facing naval guns which were damaged when the American Air Force bombed the fort during the 1945 Liberation of Manila in World War II.

William Armstrong gun at the East Bastion

Cast by Sir William Armstrong & Co. (England), these two 19th century, rifled breech-loading guns, weighing 20,238 and 20,220 pounds respectively, had a bore of 8 inches.  The original gun carriages are now gone (probably destroyed during the bombing or have rotted away) and have been replaced by concrete supports.

Pockmarked William Armstrong gun at West Bastion

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS:

After our visit to the fort, I can’t help but notice the differences between the plain looking south entrance and the exuberantly decorated north entrance.  Plus, I also can’t help but notice the seemingly misplaced bas-re;ief, with its statued niche, to the right of the south entrance.  This has got me thinking.

Could the south entrance have been originally located just below this bas-relief? It would make sense as statues of saints in niches or in bas-reliefs are usually placed above the entrances of churches and forts (even Fort Santiago has a bas relief of St. James the Moor Slayer, its patron saint, above its main entrance) to watch over those who enter.  Probably the lower and narrower entrance (suitable for wagons), with its pilasters, must have been walled up and a new, simple but higher and wider square opening was created, during the American era, a few meters beside it, possibly to allow tall and wide-bodied vehicles such as trucks to pass through.  I wonder ……..

For me, this makes sense…..

Fort San Antonio Abad: Banko Sentral ng Pilipinas Complex, Malate, Manila 1004.  E-mail corporateaffairs@bsp.gov.ph (to arrange for a visit).

Museo ng Sapatos (Marikina City, Metro Manila)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Museo ng Sapatos (Shoe Museum)

The Museo ng Sapatos (Shoe Museum), formerly known as the Footwear Museum of Marikina, is housed in an old stone building (bigasang bayan) built in 1880s by Dona Teresa de la Paz of the affluent Tuason family to store palay.   During the Philippine Revolution, it served as an armory of the Guardia Civil and, during the Philippine–American War, the building was used as a detention center.

Museum entrance

During the American era, it was then used as a motor pool and, during the Japanese Occupation, it served as a detention center for suspected guerillas.  After World War II, the structure was repurposed as a rice mill by the Tuason family but was later abandoned.

Museum interior

In 1998, Mayor Bayani F. Fernando conceived the idea to open a museum dedicated to Marikina‘s 110-year old shoe industry and, in 2000, he had it renovated and converted into a museum.

Column wrapped with shoe lasts

Opened as Marikina Footwear Museum on February 16, 2001, it aims to showcase the shoes worn by prominent figures and personalities in the Philippine history and to trace the history of the shoe industry.  Imelda R. Marcos herself led the museum’s opening.  When Typhoon Ondoy struck in 2009, water reached 4 ft. high inside the museum and many shoes were damaged.

Imelda Marcos Shoes Gallery. At the end are the Filipiniana dress of Imelda Marcos and the barong tagalog of Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos

At the center of the hall is a column of old wooden shoe lasts. A stairway leads up to the mezzanine where 749 pairs (as of 2020) of size eight-and-a-half footwear (shoes, downy boudoir slippers, slick knee-length boots, open-toed linen espadrilles, alligator pumps, etc.)  of former First Lady Imelda R. Marcos, an active promoter of Marikina’s shoe industry, are displayed, occupying one long wall of cabinets.

Shoes of Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos

Shoes of Pres. Manuel A. Roxas

Aside from shoes from local designers (she was gifted an average of 10 pairs a week), they include handcrafted designer pieces from brands such as Charles Jourdan, Beltrami, Christian Dior, Gucci and Oleg Cassini.  Also on display are a Filipiniana dress worn by her and a barong tagalog worn by the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos.

Shoes of Pres. Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo

Shoes of Pres. Fidel V. Ramos

Seized by the Presidential Commission on Good Government, they were formerly on display, for six years, at the Malacañang Palace Museum (now the Malacanang Museum and Library) during Corazon Aquino‘s presidential term.

Check out “Malacanang Museum and Library”

Celebrity Shoes

It was later placed in storage at the beginning of Fidel V. Ramos‘s presidency.  In 1996, a portion of Marcos’ shoe collection was requested to be transferred to the Marikina city government led by Mayor Bayani Fernando. Marcos did not object to the request in 1998.

Shoes of former Marikina City Mayor Bayani Fernando

Bowling shoes of six-time World bowling champion Paeng Nepomuceno

Also on display are shoes worn by the late President Ferdinand E. Marcos plus shoes donated by the late President Fidel V. Ramos, President Joseph Estrada (a size 10) and President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, and shoes donated by other politicians (Sen. Loren Legarda, Cong. Jose de Venecia, Bongbong Marcos, etc.) including a pair of shoes from Senator Miriam Defensor Santiago which she wore during the 1992 Presidential Campaign and during her visit to local shoe manufacturers in Marikina.

Evolution of Shoes

Circa 1930s to 1970s

There are also shoes from showbiz figures (Agot Isidro, Dolphy, Fernando Poe Jr., Christine Reyes, April Boy Regino, Angel Aquino, John Arcilla, Rosa Rosal, etc.) , athletes (Paeng Nepomuceno, Eugene Torre, etc.), beauty queens (Venus Raj, etc.) and other well-known personalities (Lisa Macuja-Elizalde, Jaime Cardinal Sin, First Lady Amelita Ramos, etc.).

Circa 1980s to 2000s

Circa 2001 to the Present

Aside from celebrity shoes, there is a display about footwear through the ages. Highlights include kinds of shoes icemen would have worn back in 3300 BC, Dutch clogs, Viking boots, Roman sandals and Indian moccasins.  Also on display are the products that made Marikina as the Shoe Capital of the Philippines.

Singer sewing machine

Men’s and Ladies’ Shoe Stands and Manual Delaster

On another corner are award-winning shoes, mostly fantasy footwear, from the city’s annual design competition.

A 3-foot high leather shoe

Also on display are actual cobbler’s tools, a sewing machine, shoe lasts, shoe components, men’s and ladies’ shoe stands and a manual delaster.  There’s also a huge, 3 ft. high leather shoe.

Shoe Components

Cobbler’s tools

On the sidewalk surrounding the Shoe Museum is the Shoe-perstar Alley, a walk-of-fame inaugurated on November 13, 2012 (Sapatos Festival).

Angel Locsin and Joel Lamangan

It features 49 famous personalities from different careers like politics, sports, arts, entertainment, music, philanthropy, business, news and current affairs, fashion and beauty, and religion who have greatly contributed to the upliftment of the shoe industry in Marikina.  Their names are placed on 60cm. x 60cm. tiles that have a 16cm. x 16cm. shoe design made of brass.

Monique Wilson and Brian Tenorio

Also outside the Shoe Museum is a century-old acacia tree, one of two Heritage Trees in Marikina which are enduring witnesses to city’s history, particularly the growth and struggles of its footwear industry. Now laying on its side, the trunk blocking J.P. Rizal Street and half of the roots unearthed and exposed, it was uprooted by a tornado spawned by Typhoon Ompong on September 14, 2018. First aid methods and bonsai techniques had been used to revive this acacia and it is now considered a symbol of the community’s own survival and resilience.

The still resilient Heritage Tree

Museo ng Sapatos:  J.P. Rizal St., San Roque, Marikina City (50 m. from the Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina), Metro Manila.  Open daily, 7:30 AM to 4:30 PM.  Admission: Php50.  Tel: (632) 696-6516.E-mail: marikinatourism@gmail.com.

How to Get There: take the LRT-2 to Santolan (its last stop) and then take a San Mateo-bound jeepney to City Hallon Central Shoe Ave.  From there, it is a short walk to the museum.

Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina (Metro Manila)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina

The over two century old Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina, formerly the old Kapitan Moy building, was constructed in 1780 by Don Jose Guevarra whose family owns “Asyenda Tyason.” Andres Bonifacio of the Katipunan once visited the place and, in 1901, the American soldiers made it a camp.

National Historical Commission plaque installed in 1970

Once owned by Don Laureano “Kapitan Moy” Guevarra (July 4, 1851 – December 30, 1891), recognized as the father of the shoe industry in the Philippines (he also served as capitan municipal in the former municipality), the first pair of shoes in Marikina was designed and made in 1887.

Don Laureano “Kapitan Moy” Guevarra

Doña Teresa dela Paz, a haciendera, then bought the house of Kapitan Moy to serve the needs of the marginal sector of the community, converting it into a home of needy residents of Marikina. Doña Teresa then presented the dwelling to his brother-in-law Don Jose Espiritu who transformed it into a primary school from 1907 to 1955.

Interior

When the Americans occupied the Philippines, the building also served as the house of the American tribunal. From 1942 to 1945, when the Japanese came over, it became the Japanese Imperial Army’s headquarters.

In 1968, it was also declared as a National Shrine by the municipal council and NHCP.  On April 16, 1970, the building was commemorated with a cast-iron plaque marker and listed as a Historic Site and Structure by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) for being the Unang Pagawaan ng Sapatos sa Marikina or the First Shoe Workshop in Marikina.

Galeria

It is also recognized as a Cultural Property of the Philippines by the National Commission on Culture and the Arts, National Historical Commission of the Philippines, and the National Museum of the Philippines.

Cafe Kapitan Restaurant

On April 16, 1986, the building was declared as the Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina (Cultural Center of Marikina) by the Marikina local government. On September 14, 2018, the building was damaged by a tornado , a day before Typhoon Mangkhut (Ompong) struck Cagayan Valley, disrupting the wedding reception held at the building.

Cafe Kapitan Restaurant

Inside this building can be found Doll Museum, Marikina City’s museum, a diorama showcasing the events and history of Marikina. It also houses two restaurants (Café Kapitan Restaurant and Kusina ni Kambal).

Exterior stairs leading to the second floor

At the Café Kapitan Restaurant is an old well which serves as a décor and a wishing well to customers at the ground floor and is also a venue for seminars, conventions and other events.

Bulwagang Bayani

The fully airconditioned Bulwagang Bayani, located on the second floor, can accommodate 400 to 450 guests. The Plaza Kapitan may also be rented for different occasions.

The author at Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina

Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina: 323 J.P. Rizal St.,1800  Marikina City, Metro Manila.