Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins (Pilar Sorsogon)

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

A few minutes hike from Casa Almei Beach Resort are the Ruins of the Astillero de Panlatuan.  Astilleros are Spanish-era shipyards used for construction and repair of the galleons that plied the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade. The towns of Donsol and Pilar, both sheltered from typhoons and having extensive coasts dotted by bays, coves and major rivers that are navigable, were the location of several shipyards. An extensive mangrove surrounds them, making it a safe haven for boats and people.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins

The astillero at Donsol (probably used as a construction, repair and smelting site) was established at the mouth of a river while the astillero at Pilar was established on a cove. When the important astillero on Bagatao Island in Magallanes was destroyed by Moro pirates, it was transferred to Panlatuan Bay after the Galleon Trade ended in 1650.

A portion of the fence built with cobble stones, with imported broken glass on the top for added protection

The revolution in Sorsogon was ignited  by the abuse and exploitation of the Panlatuan shipyard workers by their Spanish masters.  On August 5, 1898, desperate workers of the astillero rose in arms and raided the homes of four Spaniards residing in the barrio, slaying them with machetes.

Another stone structure on the site

The two astilleros of Pilar are separated by bodies of waters. The Binanuahan Astillero (probably the administrative site), at the Pilar Peninsula, is more inland while the Panlatuan Astillero (probably the construction and smelting site), located on a cove, is nearer the sea.  The deep waters, two rivers, an extensive mangrove, a vast flatland and a hill of the latter made it a favorable choice for an astillero.

The Panlatuan astillero has the best preserved features of the three.  Remains of large (approximately 30-40 cm. in diameter), equidistantly buried wooden posts, seen during low tide (only 30 cms. Can be seen), are associated with the presence of a pier and are arranged either parallel or perpendicular to each other.

Travel agents listen as our guide narrates the history of the site

The remains of a big gate, ruins of watchtowers and a warehouse were also documented during archaeological surveys and excavations done in the 1990s. Two old deep wells on the site, built with adobe tuff, are still being used by the owners.

One of several deep water wells on the site

The stone structures had thick walls made with riverine stones, adobe tuff and lime mortar; a roof with earthenware tiles and big windows and door frames. The watchtower used riverine cobble stones while the fence enclosing the astillero used cobble stones with imported broken glass on the top for added protection.

A ceramic shard recovered from the site

Corroded iron nails, chain rings, bronze sheathing nails, iron tools, a porthole window, Chinese, European and local ceramic shards (I was given one recovered on the site), brick tiles and Spanish coins were recovered on this site. A large slag concentration, pointing to smelting activities in the past, was also found on the northeastern side.

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

Since the Panlatuan astillero was part of a series of events that resulted in the rapid spread of revolutionary activities in Sorsogon it, in my opinion, deserves to be declared a National Historical Site by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines, with a historical plaque installed.  The site should also be rehabilitated and restored.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins: Panlatunan, 4714 Pilar, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Pilar is located 495.2 kms. (a 12-hr. drive  via Pan Philippine Highway/AH26) from Manila and 57.7 kms. (a 1-hr. drive via Central Nautical Highway and Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26) from Sorsogon City.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Pilar Municipal Tourism Office: E-mail: pilarsor.tourism@gmail.com.  Mobile number: (0948) 955-7727.

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.

The Iconic Pansit of Cabagan (Isabela)

The iconic Pancit Cabagan

Prior to our return to the City of Ilagan from Cabagan, we took time out to observe the making of the festive, hearty and mouth watering Pancit Cabagan (a must try if you are in Cabagan) at Mariloi’s Panciteria and Restaurant, one the well known pansiterias in the town.  Here, we were welcomed by owner Ms. Marivic Tagao who would demonstrate how this unique, saucy pansit dish variety is prepared.

Mariloi’s Restaurant

But first, the history of the origin of the uniquely delicious Pancit Cabagan (or Pansi Cabagan, pansi being the Ybanag term for pansit), considered as one of the most popular food in the province and the Cagayan Vallley and a symbol of the town’s culture and heritage.

Just like any other noodle dish in the country, Pancit Cabagan is of Chinese origin. In 1887, according to a research conducted, a group of Chinese traders, originally from Amoy (now Xiamen), China, landed in Aparri (Cagayan). Among them was Sia Liang (also known as Diangga) who married Augustina Deray Laddaran, a Filipina, and established a panciteria in Cabagan during the pre-war period, using ingredients that were locally available at that time.

Today, many roadside eateries and restaurants in this town offer their own take on this very filling noodle recipe. This pansit version makes use of miki noodles (made with wheat, flour, lihiya and eggs) and eggs similar to that of Tuguegarao’s Pancit Batil Patung (translated as “beat the egg” and “place on top”).

The pancit’s toppings – veggies, lumpiang shanghai, lechon carajay, meatballs, quail eggs

However, the eggs are boiled and not poached. Quail eggs (pugo) are commonly used to make this dish.  This pansit version also has more sauce (sweet and salty) compared to the others. The noodles are not submerged in sauce or broth, so this cannot be categorized as mami (noodle soup).

Ms. Marivic Tagao

Marivic showed us how the miki noodles were cooked in oil in a wok, Upon draining, the already prepared toppings that make this pancit truly delicious are were generously added – bite-sized slices of lechon carajay (crispy pork belly boiled with spices and deep fried), lumpia shanghai (fried egg roll), meatballs, quail eggs, a medley of veggies  and cooked igado (stewed pork liver).  This was served with calamansi (Philippine lemon).  We all took turns trying out this iconic dish.

The restaurant also serves delicious bulalo (soup with bone-in beef shank), beef mami, chicken mami, pares (braised beef stew), lomidinuguan (Filipino version of blood stew) and papaitan (a bitter soup made from cow’s innards). The flourishing noodle industry of the town has spawned the annual Pansi Festival (every January 16-25, the patronal Feast of St. Vincent Ferrer) that includes events such as a noodle contest, beauty pageants and cultural and sports competitions.

Mariloi’s Pancieria and Restarant: Maharlika Highway, Brgy. Cubag, 3328 Cabagan (near Isabela State University-Cabagan Campus and beside 4J Hotel), Isabela. Mobile number: (0917) 505-1269.  E-mail: marlontagao@yahoo.com. Open daily, 7 AM – 10:30 PM. Coordinates: 17.41936,121.79452.

How to Get There: Cabagan is located 458.1 kms. (a 10-hr. drive), via the Pan Philippine Highway/AH26, from Manila and 45.4 kms. (a 1-hr. drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Balay San Jose (Santa Maria, Isabela)

Rancho Agripino

After our pottery tour at Brgy. Poblacion 3, we again boarded our bus for the short 7.1-km. (20-min.) drive, via the Enrile-Santa Maria Rd., to Balay San Jose within Rancho Agripina, owned by Santa Maria Mayor Hilario “Larry G. Pagauitan, whose Sanctaurio de San Jose (a favorite wedding venue) and Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe (a retreat center) are visited by tourists and religious pilgrims.

Entrance

Upon entering the gate, our bus drove along a dirt road lined with life-side statues depicting the Stations of the Cross (Via Crusis).

One of the Stations of the Cross along the road

Upon arrival, we first dropped by the Sanctuario de San Jose, a chapel was built in memory of Maria Lourdes Gatan Pagauitan (November 19, 1988 – June 12, 2008), the mayor’s and his wife Sofie’s late daughter who died in a car accident. It was solemnly blest and its altar dedicated on November 19, 2015 (Maria’s birthday) by Most Rev. Sergio L. Utleg, D.D., Archbishop of the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Tuguegarao.

Sanctuario de San Jose

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The chapel has a two-level Baroque-style façade topped by a triangular pediment and flanked by three-storey, square bell towers topped by a dome and cross.  The first level has an entrance portico (topped by angel statues) which has a statue of St. Joseph with the Child Jesus and is flanked by, flat pilasters, 3 semicircular arch stained glass windows and a semicircular arch statued niche.

The second level has a similar set up, the only difference being the statued niche above the entrance portico.  The triangular pediment has a circular, stained glass rose window within a bas-relief of a Jerusalem Cross, a cross potent (or crutch cross) with four Greek crosses.

The first two storeys of the flanking bell towers have semicircular arch blind windows while the receding third storey, housing the church bell, has open, semicircular arch windows.

Statue of St. Joseph and the Child Jesus

The left bell tower has the sign of “Banal na Pag-aaral Center, Area 11, Northern Luzon.”

The chapel interior

The main altar and its retablo

Inside the chapel are three altars (main and two side altars) with exquisitely carved retablos (altar backdrop), a painted barrel vaulted ceiling, colorful stained glass windows, religious statuary and a triforium (interior gallery)

Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe

Main entrance

Connected to the chapel, on it’s left, is the Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe (St. Joseph House of Spirituality), which was solemnly blest on September 19, 2014 by Bishop Joseph A. Nacua, O.F.M., Cap. D.D. of the Diocese of Ilagan.  This retreat house has has 42 airconditioned rooms with private bath, four dormitories (two large and two small), refectories, conference hall, lunch room, chapels and a beautifully landscaped garden.  In front is an open air lanai topped by a view deck which is accessed by stairs.

The author at the viewdeck

Open-air lanai

In front of the chapel are statues of Christ Resurrected, St. Michael the Archangel and Tablets of the Ten Commandments.   On the right side of the chapel is a tableau depicting Christ Appearing Before his Disciples.

Statue of St.Michael the Archangel

Tableau of Christ Appears to His Disciples

We also dropped by its museum which is filled with reiligous statuary of all sizes, paintings, photos  and other religious artifacts such as monstrances, chalices, crucifixes, etc..

Museum of relious statuary,paintings, photos and artifacts

Also within Rancho Agripino is St. Joseph Library, Lourdes Chapel, Casa di Marello (for visiting priests and brothers of the Oblates of St. Joseph founded by St. Joseph Marello), Galilee (a cluster of airconditioned huts in the middle of a lake), Chapel of the Santo Sepulchro and the Risen Lord (a chapel with the image of Our Lady of Sorrows and the Risen Christ), The Hermitage (a solitary place for those who want to be alone with the Lord), a helipad  and a medical center (MLGP Medical Center).

MLGP Medical Center

Helipad

Balay San Jose: Rancho Agripino, Brgy. Calamagui West, Santa Maria 3330, Isabela.

How to Get There: Santa Maria is located 451.1 kms. (an 8.5-hour drive) from Manila and 67.8 kms. (a 1.5-hour drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar (Cauayan City, Isabela)

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar

Come morning of our fourth day in Isabela, we toured the nearby (3-km.) Church of Our Lady of the Pillar.  This church, built with stone, mortar and bricks, was begun in 1825 by Dominican Fr.  Juan Prieto and finished in 1830.

The Baroque facade

During World War II, the church was heavily damaged (parts of the church, the sides of the presbytery were hit) and the convent was destroyed. This church, as well as the Church of St. Rose of Lima in Gamu, and the Church of Our Lady of Atocha in Alicia, are examples of what is called as the “Cagayan Style” of Spanish churches that was inspired by the Tuguegarao church.

Check out “Church of Our Lady of Atocha” and “Church of St. Rose of Lima

Bas-reliefs featuring curlicues

The left side of the church

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The church’s two-level, Baroque brick (portions of the bricks have bas-reliefs and numbers and symbols etched on it) façade, similar to the Church of Our Lady of Atocha in Alicia, has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by semicircular arched windows.

The second level has a centrally located statued niche flank by semicircular arched windows. The undulating pediment, with its centrally located rose window, is topped by finials.

 

Check out “Church of Our Lady of Atocha

The modern church interior

The rear of the church

The modern interior of the church has a fresco (The Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary) above the altar.

The Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary

The top level of its beautiful five-storey bell tower on the right was later destroyed during the violent December 27, 1949 Intensity 7 earthquake, leaving only the base, and the upper level is a modern addition.

The old church bells and a plaque narrating the history of the parish

During our visit, we were allowed to climb to the very top of the tower where we had a panoramic bird’s eye view of the city and the surrounding countryside.

The Parish PastoralCenter

Candle house with a huge statue of Our Lady of the Pillar above it

Displayed on the right side of the church, between a plaque detailing the history of the parish, are two old church bells, dated 1792 and 1843 respectively.  Around the church are huge statues of the Pieta and Jesus Christ, a Candle House (above which is a huge statue of Our Lady of the Pillar) and a 2-storey Parish Pastoral Center (inaugurated on April 12, 2014) with function rooms and a parish museum.

Statue of the Pieta

At the rear are bas-reliefs of The Last Supper, The Holy Face of Jesus and The Sorrowful Mother.

Bas-reliefs of The Holy Face of Jesus, The Sorrowful Mother and The Last Supper

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar: Mabini St., Cauayan City, Isabela. Tel: (078) 652-2014 and (078) 634-5049. Feast of Our Lady of the Pillar: October 12.

How to Get There: Cauayan City is located 374 kms. (a 9-hour drive) from Manila and 33 kms. from Ilagan City.

Isabela Museum and Library (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

Isabela Museum and Library

On our third day in Isabela, a break in the Bambanti Festival proceedings brought us to the Isabela Museum and Library. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by Mr. Jesus Fernandez Ordonez, Museum Researcher II who was to tour us around the museum.

The Neo-Classical facade

The two-storey museum showcases Isabela’s history and cultural heritage. Among the museum’s collections are antique furniture, fossils, ethnographic items, heirloom pieces, visual arts (photographs, paintings, sculpture, and graphic arts), artworks, historical and cultural dioramas and miniature models of provincial landmarks, among others.

Display at museum lobby

The building where the museum is located, built in 1946, once housed the province’s old capitol until 1991.  When a provincial capitol buiding was built in Brgy. Alibagu, Gov. Benjamin G. Dy decided to convert the old building into a museum and library.

Bambantii Festival Exhibit

Architect Baltazar Gigantone was commissioned to redesign the building into a museum.  On May 11, 1991, the new museum was inaugurated during the 143rd founding anniversary of the province.  In 2019, the museum was rehabilitated by Gov. Faustino G. Dy III.

Diorama of the Capture of Emilio Aguinaldo

Upon entry, one of the first exhibit we noticed was the diorama of the March 23, 1901 capture of Pres. Emilio Aguinaldo in Palanan by American Gen. Frederick Funston. One by one, we toured the museum’s numerous galleries.

Farming Implements

The Cultural Heritage/Antiques Gallery, on the right wing, is the first gallery we visited.  It displays, as its name implies, antique furniture, religious artifacts (monstrances, statuary, chalices, candle holders, etc.), relics from old structures (St. Matthias Church, Bungad Bridge, San Vicente Ferrer Chapel, San Pablo Church Ruins, Casa Real, etc.), burnay pottery, ceramic water filter (ca. 1930 – 1960), World War II memorabilia (M1 helmets, canteens, mess kits, Japanese rifle, nesting cups, etc.)and Scouting Jamboree memorabilia.

Check out “Church of St.Matthias

Sewing machines, typewriters, etc.

Old appliances, office equipment and everyday items on display include typewriters (Underwood, Royal, etc.), gas-operated flat irons, single-burner mini gas stoves, Singer sewing machines, prinsa (old style metal pan filled with hot coals), Gramophone records, an abacus, ash trays, case gin bottles (cuatro cantos), a Mansfield automatic film projector, Canon cameras, an  Olympia adding machine,  Paymaster check writer/printer, Gramophone, farming implements and a dadapilan (sugar cane crusher) and old wooden storage chests.

Cooking Implements and Wooden Chests

Burnay Pottery

The adjoining gallery houses the memorabilia of the late Sen. Heherson Alvarez (clothes, books, photos, etc.), the Governors’ Memorabilia and the Portraits of Power Gallery.

Portraits of Power Gallery

Memorabilia of Sen. Heherson Alvarez

On the left wing are the Awards and Bambanti Festival Gallery (gowns, photos, etc.), the Selyo Gallery (displays first day of issue Philippine stamps), Revolving Exhibit Gallery and Numismatics Gallery (displays coins and paper currency).

Selyo Gallery (Philippine stamps, first day of issue)

Numismatics Gallery (coins and paper currency)

Awards and Bambanti Festival Gallery

Another room houses the Contemporary Arts Gallery (Art Capital of the North Gallery, Visual Arts and Scaled Models).

Contemporary Arts Gallery

Scaled models

The Tilamsik ng Liwanag (Splash of Light”) Gallery displays replicas of Katipunan flags and photos of historical events (the Propaganda Movement, Katipunan Movement, Philippine Revolution, the Malolos Constitution, Philippine-American War, World War II, the Japanese Occupation, Martial Law years, People Power Revolution, etc.) and personalities (Jose Rizal, Emilio Aguinaldo, Manuel L. Quezon, etc.).

Tilamsik ng Liwanag (Splash of Light”) Gallery

The library has 21,793 books (including the minutes of session of the Provincial Board, from 1909 to 2011, the oldest in the country).

Library

Minutes of Session of the Provincial Board, the oldest in the country

Isabela Museum and Library: Arranz St., Brgy. Osmena, City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Tel: (078) 307-3004 and (078) 323-3146.  E-mail: isabelamuseumandlibrary@gmail.com and isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com. Open Mondays to Fridays, 8 AM – 5PM.

CVRC Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

CVRC Agro-Ecotourism and Organic Farm

The Cagayan Valley Research Center (CVRC) Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm, strategically located at the back of  the Ilagan Public Market and adjacent to the National Highway, was accredited by the Department of Tourism (DOT) on May 23, 2016.

Vermicompost Production Area

The CVRC is one of the Bureau of Agricultural Research’s active partners in research and development (R&D) in the region and is also a certified third party organic farm as issued by the OCCP, certified last August 2017 and renewed last October 29, 2018.  On June 5, 2016, it was also accredited as a learning site.

Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex

Learning Center and Museum for Organic Agriculture

The farm has an approximate are of 32 hectares of which 8 hectares is for the experimental farm, 10 hectares for the non-experimental farm and 14 hectares for the expansion area.

Personnel transplanting seedlings into trays

It offers organic vegetables, edible landscaping and vermicompost production which are open for public visits and stakeholders, particularly farmers, entrepreneurs and students.

Plant Genetic Resources Center

Organic Seed Storage Display House

It is home to the Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex, the Plant Genetics Resources Center, Organic Seed Storage Display House, the Learning Center and Museum for Organic Agriculture, Herbal Garden, Children’s Park, Alphabet Garden, Pinakbet Park, a butterfly sanctuary, sunflower garden, tunnel garden, a floating restaurant, Youth Garden, a kid zone garden and the Children’s Park with a haven of organic plants and vegetables.

Alphabet Garden

Mushroom Production Area

The Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex, a satellite station of the CVRC, is the regional show window of the Department of Agriculture that is responsible for the promotion of soil and water management and conservation measures for agricultural development.

Herbal Garden

Solar System Garden

The Plant Genetics Resources Center (PGRC), inaugurated in May 2018, caters to the conservation of collected germplasm of major crops in the Cagayan Valley.

Children’s Park

Bahay Kubo

Here, you can pick and pay (bingwit mo, bayad mo) for your vegetables and they also have a fishing area, picnic cottages and offer bikes for rent (Php50/hour).  They also sell chickens, ducks, mushrooms, lettuce and other vegetables.

Statue of a Carabao Cooling Itself in Mud

Statues of Children Playing Luksong Tinik

CVRC Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm: Purok 2, Brgy. San Felipe, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Mobile number: (0956) 096-3388 and (0927) 910-1166.  E-mail: cvrc.rfo@da.gov.ph and da.cvrc@yahoo.com.  Website: www.cagayanvalley.da.gov.ph. Admission: Php20.

Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center

On the afternoon of our second day in Isabela, we were driven to the Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center which is run by the Department of Agriculture-Cagayan Valley Research Center (DA-CVRC)   Employees Multi-purpose Cooperative.  Mangi is the Ybanag word for “corn.”

Ms. Elizabet Allam

Located just adjacent to the Isabela Police Provincial Office and the Ilagan Public Market, the food house is an innovative breakthrough of the DA-CVRC, promoting corn and its products.  The City of Ilagan is the country’s Corn Capital (with 80% of the population being corn farmers) and this restaurant offers corn fare such as corn coffee, energy ball, puto, nachos, inandappel,  corn shake, pansi de mangi, pastillas de mangi, all made with corn.

Corn-based food products

Here, we were welcomed by its manager Ms. Elizabeth S. Allam.  Ms. Allam has developed various corn recipes such as creamy cornbonara (with flat noodles made of purple corn), pinataro (its take on ginatan where the galapong is corn-based), cornganisa (a vegan sausage composed of mushrooms, malunggay, tofu and, of course, corn), and creamy corn pizza (corn is used for the topping, sauce and dough).

During our visit, Elizabeth introduced to us their decadent soft-serve ice cream – cornbetes. This corn-based product was launched by DA-CVRC Chairman William Contillo on October 12, 2019, the second day of the “Kain Na” Food and Travel Festival, North Luzon Edition at the Ayala Technohub in Baguio City. We each tasted the pure flavors of corn with crunchy corn kernels.

Cornbetes

Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center: Acacia St., Brgy. Baligatan, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Mobile number: (0977) 213-1136, (0915)902-5266 and (0939) 115-6879.  E-mail: dacviarcempc@yahoo.com.

Bateria (San Esteban, Ilocos Sur)

Moro Watchtower (Bateria)

Part of Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant-sponsored tour

This old but very pretty, 10.4-m. high, circular Spanish-era watchtower, located on a park at the headland of the sandy cove, is one of four Spanish-era watchtowers in Ilocos Sur (the others are located in Santiago, Narvacan and Bantay).  Visible from Villa Quirino Point, it is the oldest landmark of San Esteban (Ilocos Sur).

Built by Augustinian Fr. Damaso Vieytez OSA (who became the first parish priest of San Esteban in 1848), Don Agustin Santiago and Don Domingo Sumabas, it has a diameter of approximately 8.5 m. and was built with sandstone, lime and mortar.

Historical marker. In my opinion, the 16th century date of construction is wrong. Should be the 19th century

A major landmark of the town, it was also called the Moro Watchtower and is one of the most intact Spanish-era watchtowers in the country.

The free standing concrete platform supported by concrete columns. In the middle is a skylight to illuminate the lower level. The platform is accessed by s steel stairway.

Accessed by a steel stairway, it has one entrance and a crenellated top where a row of cannons were once installed (hence the name bacteria, the Spanish word for “battery”).  Today, only tower viewer binoculars are installed.

View of the lower level from the skylight

The Philippine Tourism Authority ((now the Tourism Infrastructure and Enterprise Zone Authority or TIEZA) has declared it as a Tourism Site and it has been registered in the National Historical Institute (NHI), now the National Historical Commission  of the Philippines (NHCP).   In December 2015 , the National Museum of the Philippines declared it as a National Cultural Treasure (Category I).

The concrete platform with stainless steel railings

In 2016, it was renovated by the National Historical Commission  of the Philippines (NHCP) who, together with the local government, also made improvements of the park including the addition of concrete picnic tables.  The banyan tree which once grew around the tower is now gone.

View of the sea from the watchtower

View of the shoreline and the park

Bateria: Brgy. Bateria, San Esteban, 2706 Ilocos Sur. Admission is free.

Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant: Sabangan Beach, Brgy. Sabangan, Santiago 2707, Ilocos Sur.  Mobile number: (0917) 115-4495 (Globe), (0917) 654-2078 (Globe), (0968) 851-5446 (Smart) and (0955) 773-9793 (Rodrigo’s).  E-mail: hsantiagocovehotel@gmail.com.

Mapisi Rock (Santiago, Ilocos Sur)

Mapisi Rock

Part of Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant-sponsored tour

Derived from the Ilocano word mapisi meaning “to cut,” Mapisi Rock (or “Biak-na-Bato”) is a towering boulder that has been cut in the middle by natural forces, probably by an earthquake.  The base of the rock has also been undercut by sea waves.

Concrete picnic sheds painted in Santorini blue and white accents

It is located along the white sand Apatot Beach and is just 4 kms. away from the National Highway.

Paved stairs and walkways

 

The area around the rock has been developed into a picnic site, with lighting, paved walkways and stairs plus public toilets and concrete picnic tables and sheds painted in Santorini-inspired colors of blue and white.

The author at Mapisi Rock

Offshore is a small rock formation which resembles a dragon’s head. Mapisi Rock is a favorite of visitors who usually climb the rock for some buwis buhay shots.

The dragon head-like rock formation located offshore

Here, you have great sea views and, come dusk, you can also watch the setting sun from here.

Dusk at Mapisi Rock (photo: Mr. Roel Hoang Manipon)

Mapisi Rock: Brgy. Ambucao, Santiago, Ilocos Sur.  Admission: Php10/pax.

Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant: Sabangan Beach, Brgy. Sabangan, Santiago 2707, Ilocos Sur.  Mobile number: (0917) 115-4495 (Globe), (0917) 654-2078 (Globe), (0968) 851-5446 (Smart) and (0955) 773-9793 (Rodrigo’s).  E-mail: hsantiagocovehotel@gmail.com.

Casa Byzantina (Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar, Bagac, Bataan)

Casa Byzantina

Our land tour, via coaster, of Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar (Spanish for “Acuzar’s Philippine Houses”) ended at Casa Byzantina .  Also known as the “Don Lorenzo del Rosario (a signer of the Malolos Constitution and one of the numerous building contractors in Binondo) House,” it is a three-storey, intricately designed mixed-used “floral” bahay na bato (stone house) originally located at the corner of Madrid and Penarrubia Streets at San Nicolas, Binondo, Manila.

Designed in 1890 by Catalan architect Joan Josep Jose Hervas y Arizmendi , it is the only existing building designed by him in the Philippines.

Born in BarcelonaSpain in 1851, architect Joan Josep Jose Hervas y Arizmendi got his degree in 1879 and, from 1892 to 1898, became the municipal architect (or arquitecto municipal) of Sitges and Tortosa in Spain and in ManilaPhilippines. Some of his works were private residences such as Casa Perez Samanillo (Circulo Ecuestre at present), owned by the Perez-Samanillos, former Manila residents (they owned the Perez Samanillo building at Escolta, Manila), in 1910, for which he was awarded the 1911 Barcelona City Council Prize.   His other works include Hotel de Oriente and La Insular Fabrica de Tabacos y Cigarillos.  He died in 1912.

The Moorish door transom at the exterior

So called  because of its Byzantine ornamentation, it has a half-moon opening above the large entrance with grill works, arches above the windows of the third floor, engaged columns, and appliqued carvings. However, the house reflects more of the Neo-Mudejar (Spanish-Moorish) architectural style  as seen by its Moorish door transom on the exterior, which is echoed in the interior wooden arches and transom traceries.  A mirador (balcony) crowns the roof above the interior’s stairs with turned balusters. The stairs, leading up to the second and third floors, provides access to both wings of the house.

Media group posing in front of Casa Byzantina

In 1869, as the streets at the commercial concentrations at Binondo and San Nicolas districts in Manila were narrow, corner buildings were mandated to be built with a chamfer (or chaflan) and, in compliance with this municipal building regulation (which also led to the creation of eight-sided open spaces, or plazoletas, at every street corner), the house was built with a chamfered corner.

Historical plaque

Its first storey (which served as commercial spaces) was made of adobe stones and bricks while the two upper storeys (which served as residential spaces) were built with various sturdy Philippine hard woods.  Galvanized iron sheets were used for roofing.

Used as commercial and residential space, during the 20th century, the house was occupied by a succession of tenants. In 1914, it was the first home of the the Instituto de Manila which rented it for elementary and high school classes until 1919 when the institute moved to Sampaloc, Manila, eventually becoming the University of Manila. In 1939, despite its neglected state, it was cited by Tribune magazine.

The hotel lobby

After World War II, the nearby community decayed and the land reclamation for the North Harbor. The old houses became tenements and some were torn down to make way for commercial buildings. Casa Byzantina was leased to various tenants.

By 2000, it was in a miserable condition. After eight years, the house was declared structurally unsound. Yet, despite its condition, more than 50 informal, urban poor families were still occupying the house. In 2009, the house was sold, dismantled, and brought to Bagac, Bataan.

Grand staircase

Now transformed into an elegant first class hotel, it is now considered as the most expensive hotel in the resort. This luxurious six-bedroom accommodation, complete with luxurious amenities, 24/7 butler service and free cocktails, has 7 bathrooms and sleeps 16.

Casa Byzantina: La Casas Filipinas de Acuzar, Brgy. Ibaba, Bagac, 2107 Bataan. Tel: (632) 8833-3333 local 116-117.  Mobile number: (0917) 872-9361. E-mail: reserve@lascasasfilipinas.com. Website: www.lascasasfilipinas.com. Coordinates:  14°36′09.6″N 120°23′06.9″E

How to Get There: It is a three-hour drive from Manila via NLEx and SCTEx. There is a shuttle service plying the Manila-Bataan route daily with New World Hotel Makati and Astoria Plaza as pickup and drop off points. For inquiries, call (63-2) 332-5338 and (63-2) 332-5286. The resort is accessible from the southeast through a two-lane road from the poblacion of Bagac.