Category Archives: Temples

Ma-cho Temple (City of San Fernando, La Union)

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Finally, at the northern edge of the city , I drove my Toyota Revo up a promontory overlooking San Fernando Bay, to the impressive Ma-Cho Temple, said to be the largest Taoist temple outside of China.  Meaning “Heavenly Mother,” this ornate temple is a mélange of both Taoist and Catholic symbolism and decor and has 5 gates.  It was constructed in honor of Ma-cho, a Chinese deity of the Sung Dynasty.  

Ma-cho was born in 960 AD at Meizhou village in the scenic island of Moichow in the province of Fukien in southeastern China.  According to legend, she did not cry during the first month of her infancy.  Thus, she was first named Mo meaning “keeping silent.” Intelligent, she became a monk at the age of 10 and was said to be gifted with healing powers and the ability to predict the weather and sea conditions, even days ahead.  During typhoons, she actively participated in rescue operations for fishermen.  Locals called her the “Dragon Girl,” “Goddess of the Sea” or “Queen of Heaven.”  She died young, at age 27, but even today, local sailors and fishermen believed that her spirit, dressed in red, continues to  watch over and protected them.

Here in the country, Ma-cho is known as the Virgin of Caysasay, patroness of the Filipino-Chinese faithful.  The temple houses a replica of the image, a parting gift of love given by Taiwanese fishermen in 1968.  The distinctive features of the temple were inspirations of Ma-cho through buyong sessions  held every other week.  Here, temple elders read or interpret Ma Cho’s message to the faithful.

Ma-Cho Temple

The temple, designed by Arch. Tomas Diokno, sits on a 9,000-sq. m. lot at an elevation of 70 ft..  Groundbreaking began on September 11, 1975 and actual construction began on December 2, 1976.  The Virgin’s image was enshrined on July 3, 1978 and the temple was finally inaugurated on December 6 that same year.  Devotees believe that Ma Cho and the Virgin of Caysasay are one and the same.  From September 21 to 26, devotees gather for the annual celebration of the image’s enshrinement.  From the Basilica of St. Martin of Tours in Taal, Batangas, the devotees, together with the image of Ma Cho, will travel back to San Fernando City.  Once in the city, it is borne in a procession around the city’s business district, accompanied by the traditional Dragon Dance.  It is then culminated by a cultural presentation.

The temple’s  meditation room

The temple’s entrance wall is adorned with beautifully-carved, imported stone statues of the “Chinese 18 Saints,” in different poses.  Its circular courtyard, made with brick, has a centrally-located pond with water lilies and goldfish.  Beside it is a small structure where one can burn offerings for the gods.  On the other side are statues of animals, believed by the Chinese to be good luck charms.  The temple’s towering arch has a panoramic view of the South China Sea.  The meditation room has a grand staircase and red kneelers.  Ma Cho’s 8″ high wooden image is adorned with a traditional Chinese headdress and richly-colored robe.  Her oriental eyes are closed while her hands are clasped together at her chest. Aside from incense, devotees also offer food and money at the shrine.  Also housed in the sacred temple is Tho Ti Kong (God on Earth) while in another garden stands the statue of Kuan Yi Ma (God of Mercy), another important Chinese deity.

Ma-Cho Temple: Ma-Cho Temple Driveway, Brgy. II, City of San Fernando, La Union.

Macau City Tour

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The next day, after breakfast at the hotel, Grace and I decided to go on a day tour of the nearby Portuguese enclave of Macau via fast ferry from Hong Kong.  This would our first visit to this city renowned for its gambling and annual Macau Grand Prix.

On December 20, 1999, the People’s Republic of China assumed formal sovereignty over Macau from Portugal and it is now one of its 2 Special Administrative Regions (SAR), the other being Hong Kong.

From the hotel, we proceeded to Jordan MRT Station and took the MRT to Sheung Wan Station.  From there, we walked to the HK-Macau Ferry Terminal. High-speed Jetfoils leave here every 30 mins. or so and the trip took an hour.

Macau

Upon arrival at the Macau-Hongkong Ferry Terminal, we proceeded to the terminal’s tourist information desk to inquire on how to tour the city.  We were surprised to find the desk being manned by a Filipino.  He suggested we hire a taxi to go around the city and soon a taxi driver appeared. We placed our trust in our kababayan as he dictated an itinerary to our designated “tour guide.”

Our leisurely taxi ride first took us past  Macau’s Casino on Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro (the main street), to the Fortress of Our Lady of Guia, the highest point on Macau.  Here, we had a good view of the city, the outlying islands, the harbor and the Macau-Taipa Bridge.

Macau-Taipa Bridge

Guia Fortress was designed to defend the border with China but because of its position overlooking the entire city, its chief value has been as an observation post. Built from 1637 to 1638 by Captain of the Artillery, Antonio Ribeiro, Guia fort has 10-ft. high masonry walls, 2 brickwork turrets and occupies 8,600 sq. ft. in a rough pentagon as dictated by the rough terrain.  Its dominating feature is the 52.5-ft. high lighthouse, built in 1865 and the oldest on the China coast.  Its light could be seen for 20 miles in clear weather.

We also had a short walking tour at postcard-pretty Leal Senado Square with its European-inspired architecture of the Leal Senado, shops and pretty fountain.

Leal Senado Square

A substantial part our itinerary were churches and we visited a couple of them.  When Macau was established by the Portuguese, it was expected to be a bastion of Christianity as well as trading post, and they called it “City of the Name of God, Macau.”  Macau became an early center for Jesuit missionary activity.  In 1580, the Bishopric of Macau (which included the Indonesian island of Timor and the Christians of Malacca and Singapore) was created. The first settlers included priests and some of the first buildings were churches, initially constructed with wood and matting.  Later, they were made with taipa (rammed clay) and from the mid-17th century, of stone and plaster.  They were built by Jesuits and other monastic orders with funds provided by the city and the Portuguese crown.

Over the centuries fires and storms have devastated Macau’s churches, but almost all have been restored or rebuilt.  Macau’s multi-colored churches, all named after popular saints (St. Joseph, St. Augustine, St. Paul, St. James, St. Francis Xavier, etc.) as well as the Blessed Virgin (Our Lady of Fatima, Our Lady of Sorrows, Our Lady of Guia, Our Lady of Carmel, etc.), has a predominantly European Baroque flavor with Oriental and tropical features incorporated.  These can be seen in roofs of Chinese tiles, panels of terra cotta and Eastern motifs carved on some facades.

Chapel of Our Lady of Penha

The Chapel of Our Lady of Penha, atop Penha Hill, was founded in 1622 by the crew and passengers which narrowly escaped capture by the Dutch.  The chapel served as a point of pilgrimage for sailors embarking on a hazardous journey.  It was completely rebuilt, along with the Bishop’s Palace, in 1837.

Chapel of Our Lady of Penha

St. Paul’s (Rua de Sao Paolo), the greatest of Macau’s churches and the major landmark of Macau, was built in 1602 and adjoins the Jesuit College of St.Paul’s.  After the expulsion of the Jesuits, the college was used as an army barracks and in 1835 a fire started in the kitchens and destroyed the college and the body of the church.  Now in ruins, all that remained was the magnificent carved stone façade (built from 1620 to 1627 by Japanese Christian exiles and local craftsmen under the direction of Italian Jesuit Father Carlo Spinola) and the grand staircase.

The façade rises in four collonaded tiers and is covered with the statues of the Virgin and saints and carvings of the Garden of Eden, the Crucifixion, the angel, the devil, a Chinese dragon, a Portuguese sailing ship, a Japanese chrysanthenum and pious warnings inscribed in Chinese.

We also visited the Temple of A-Ma.  As with many others in Macau, the temple combines both the Buddhist and Taoist beliefs.  A-Ma (meaning “Honored Mother”) is a much-revered Taoist goddess, the patron of seafarers and the Queen of Heaven.

The history of the goddess goes back to around 1044 AD when in Fukien province (about 350 miles north of Macau), a poor fisherman named Lin gave birth to a baby girl.  At the time of birth a red glow was seen over the house. She grew to be a most remarkable child, never crying, hardworking, obedient and devout.

One day, when the girl was sleeping, she dreamt that two junks carrying here father and brothers were caught in the storm.  In the dream, she stretch out her arms and clenched the masts of the vessels with her fists.  Her alarmed mother, fearing that her child was suffering a fit, shook her by her arm to wake her up, causing her to let go of one of the boats.  Later, when her brothers returned, they told the story of a vision of a beautiful girl that reached out to save them but was unable to hold unto the father’s boat and thus he perished.

Lin died tragically in her early 20’s but stories of miraculous rescues at sea, with the lovely woman calming the waves and bringing the sailors to safety.  Two centuries later, during the Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1643 AD), she was canonized as the First Lady Attendant in Heaven and Protector of Seafarers.  In the years that followed, she was elevated with more titles till finally, in 1683, she was promoted to Tien Hau (Queen of Heaven).

A-Ma has taken on the mantle of the protector of Macau as a whole and people from all walks of life pay homage to her.  Childless women believe that, in her capacity as Honored Mother, prayers to her will help them conceive the child that they long for.

A-Ma Temple was the last item in our itinerary and our guide brought us back to the ferry terminal where we took another high-speed ferry back to Hong Kong.

Grand Palace and Wat Phra (Bangkok, Thailand)

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We were now on my fourth and last day in Bangkok, with my whole morning free prior to my evening return to Manila, I decided to go at it alone, taking a tuktuk (the Thai equivalent of our tricycle) to get to the fabulous Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang) and its adjoining Wat Phra Kaew. I just brought along my camera and portable tripod. Incidentally, today was also the Songkran Festival, the Thai New Year.

Grand Palace Complex

This complex of buildings is just walking distance from the previously visited Wat Pho and sits on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River. It being a holiday, many Thais were in the temple to pray and give food to monks.  Many were also cleansingBuddha images by gently pouring water mixed with a Thai fragrance over them (believed to bring good luck and prosperity for the New Year).

Wat Phra Kaew

Despite being in one compound, the Golden Palace and Wat Phra Kaew have a distinct difference in architectural style, except for the traditional Thai roof.   Except for the Wat Phra Kaew (I had to remove my shoes before entering), the interiors of most of the buildings remain closed to the public.

Wat Phra Kaew - Porch

Wat Phra Kaew (Chapel Royal of the Emerald Buddha), Thailand’s most important temple, houses the small (45 cm. tall), beautiful, gold-clothed and greatly revered Emerald Buddha, carved from a block of green jade (instead of emerald) and said to have been created in India in 43 BC. I wasn’t allowed to take pictures inside.

The Galleries

The temple’s grounds are enclosed by galleries with beautiful, vivid and colorful murals which depict the story of the  Indian epic Ramayama (Ramakien in Thai) of the first reign version.  The European-inspired Grand Palace, the official residence of the king of Thailand from the 18th century to the mid-20th century, is nowadays used only for occasional ceremonial purposes.

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

It has 2 groups of residences: the Dusit Maha Prasat (built in a style influenced by the Italian Renaissance, it has a spacious, European-style reception room decorated with galleries of portraiture) and the Phra Maha Monthian (consists of the Amarin Winitchai Audience Hall and the Paisal Taksin Hall where coronations take place).

Amarin Winitchai Audience Hall

Construction of the palace complex began in 1782, during the reign of Rama I.  After the death of King Ananda Mahidolin the Baromphiman Palace, the much-revered King Bhumibol (Rama IX), the present king, moved the official royal residence to Chitralada Palace (closed to tourists).

Viseschaisri Gate

My Grand Palace tour should have included Vimanmek Mansion along Rajavithee Road, also a former royal residence.  The biggest wooden building made from golden teak in the world, it was built by King Chulalongkorn (of the “King and I” fame).  Regrettably, I had to forego this visit as it was time to go and pack for home.

Don Muang International Airport

I returned to the hotel, joined the others in checking out of the hotel and left, via coach, for Don Muang International Airport, arriving there by noon.  By 2:30 PM, we left Bangkok on a Thai Airways International flight (TG-624) back to Manila.

Golden Palace: Na Phra Lan Road, Bangkok, Thailand.

Wat Pho (Bangkok, Thailand)

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Our next stop was the 80,000 s.m. Wat Pho (officially called Wat Phra Chetuphon Vimolmangklararm Rajwaramahaviharn), the largest and, technically,  the oldest wat in Bangkok. Thailand’s first university, it is the birthplace of traditional Thai massage (stone walls have plaques inscribed with medical texts on Thai massage, dating from the reign of King Rama III).

Wat Pho

The complex consists of 2 walled compounds bisected by Soi (Thai for “street”) Chetuphon which runs east to west. The southern walled compound, the Tukgawee, is a working Buddhist monastery, with monks in residence and a school.

Phra Uposatha (Main Chapel))

The northern walled compound, the one opened to us tourists, includes the largePhra Uposatha, a bot (temple hall or main chapel) enclosed by 394 bronze Buddha images. Outside are 152 marble slabs depicting the second half of the epic Ramakian story.

The 4 Chedis of Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn

Also near here are 4 chedis of Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn, constructed to honor the first 3 Chakri kings (2 for King Rama III).  Around the grounds are another 91 massive chedis, of varying sizes, along with chapels, rock gardens, an array of different types of statues, inscriptions, bell towers and resident fortune tellers. Nearby is a library, impressively decorated with figures, and pagodas made of porcelain.

Vihara of the Reclining Buddha

Wat Pho is known, however, for its Reclining Buddha (Phra Buddhasaiyas), one of more than 1,000 Buddha images(the most in the country, mostly gathered from the ruins of the former capitals Ayuthaya and Sukhothai) in the temple.

Reclining Buddha

Housed in the Vihara of the Reclining Buddha, this highly impressive, gold-plated Buddha, the world’s longest, is really huge, measuring 46 m. long, 15 m. high and is designed to illustrate the passing of the Buddha into nirvana. The soles of the feet and the eyes are engraved with mother-of-pearl decoration.  The feet also show the 108 auspicious scenes in Chinese and Indian styles, all characteristics of the true Buddha.

Wat Pho: Phra Nakhon District, Bangkok, Thailand.

Wat Traimit (Bangkok, Thailand)

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On our second day in Thailand, we were scheduled to go on our half-day Bangkok city tour and, after that proceed to the resort city of Pattaya in the afternoon. After our breakfast at the Rajah Hotel, we  were picked up at the hotel lobby by our lady guide from Goodwind Tours and boarded an airconditioned van. Our itinerary included 2 Guinness Book of World Records-worthy temples and a visit to a jewelry store.

Wat Traimit

The first item in our city tour itinerary was the relatively plain looking Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha) in the Yaowarat (Chinatown) area.  However unremarkable the temple may look outside, inside it houses a most valued treasure of Thailand and of Buddhism, the 5.5-ton Golden Buddha, the largest solid gold Buddha image in the world. The statue measures 3.98 m. (about 10 ft.) high, 12 ft. 9 in. in diameter and 3.13 m wide from knee to knee.

The Golden Buddha

The Buddha was originally placed in an Ayutthaya temple and was camouflage from Burmese invaders by being given a thick plaster coating.  Subsequently “lost,” the encased statue was later moved to Choti-naram Temple (or Wat Phrayakrai) in Bangkok during the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851).  When the temple was deserted about 1931, the plaster-covered Buddha was moved to Wat Traimit in the mid-1950’s.  As it was being moved to its permanent building, the rain-soaked figure was accidentally dropped, cracking the stucco to reveal the figure inside.

On February 14, 2010,the Golden Buddha was transferred to the third level of an impressive chapel and is now perched high atop a 4-storey, marble-clad ziggurat.

Admiring the Golden Buddha

The Golden Buddha (officially titled Phra Phuttha Maha Suwan Patimakon), built in parts of India and assembled at the site during the 13th century Sukhothai Period, is represented in the traditional pose of bhumisparshamudra (touching the earth with the right hand to witness Shakyamuni Buddha’s enlightenment at Bodh Gaya). At the temple, local worshipers also rub gold leaf on the other Buddha images.

Wat Traimit: Traimit Rd., Samphanthawong District, Chinatown, Bangkok, Thailand.  Open daily, 9 AM-5 PM.

City Tour – Sri Mariammam Temple (Singapore)

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Sri Mariammam Temple – Gopuram

Also within Chinatown is the Sri Mariamman Temple, Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple. Originally built in 1827 in wood and attap, a major part of the present structure is believed to have been built in 1862-1863.  Built in the Dravidian style, this temple mainly serves  the South Indian Tamil community. On July 6, 1973, due to its architectural and historical significance, the temple was gazetted as a National Monument.

Sri Mariammam Temple – Ceiling

The impressive 6-iered gopuram (entrance tower), the most outstanding feature of the temple, was built in 1925 and tapers up towards to a moulded ornamental ridge.  It was repaired, restored and richly embellished with an elaborate proliferation of sculptures of Hindu deities, other figures and ornamental decorations, in the 1960s.

Sri Mariammam Temple – Ceiling

The scale of each tier  of the gopuram and its sculptures, slightly smaller than that of the tier immediately below it, helps to create the illusion of height and adds to the symbolic importance of the building. On the right of the gopuram, as we entered the temple, is a sculpture of Murugan  while on the left is one of Krishna, all made with plaster (allowing for fine detailing) and are painted in a variety of bright colors (adding to the visually spectacular quality).

Sri Mariammam Temple: 244 South Bridge Rd., Chinatown, Singapore.

City Tour – Thian Hock Keng Temple (Singapore)

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Thian Hock Keng Temple (Temple of Heavenly Happiness) – Entrance

From Merlion Park, we next moved on to the Chinatown area were we visited the Thian Hock Keng Temple (Temple of Heavenly Happiness), one of the oldest and most important Hokkien temples in Singapore.

Thian Hock Keng Temple (Temple of Heavenly Happiness) – Courtyard

Built in traditional southern Chinese architectural style from 1839-1842 by Mr Tan Tock Seng and Mr Si Hoo Keh, it was visited by Chinese immigrants giving thanks to Ma Chu P’oh or Ma Zu (the Chinese Goddess of the Sea) for their safe voyage.  The temple replaced a humble joss house established here in 1821 by Hokkien immigrants from Amoy (China).  In 1973, it was gazetted as a National Monument.

Thian Hock Keng Temple (Temple of Heavenly Happiness) – Courtyard

This architectural masterpiece of stone, tiles and wood, assembled without nails, is embellished with dragons and phoenixes, amazing carvings, intricate sculptures and imposing columns.

Thian Hock Keng Temple (Temple of Heavenly Happiness) – Courtyard

Granite tablets on the wall inside the Entrance Hall record the details of the temple’s history.  There is also a plaque, presented by Qing Dynasty Emperor Guang Xu in 1907, inscribed with the words Bo Jing Nan Ming (Gentle Waves over the South Seas), evidence of the temple’s stature.

Thian Hock Kieng Temple: Telok Ayer St., Singapore.

Johor Bahru (Malaysia)

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Upon reaching the Malaysian side, I cleared my entry to Johor Bahru at the Malaysia Customs and Immigration Office. Once past, I found myself along Jalan Tun Abdul Razak.  Here, a fenced historical marker with a plaque tells the story of the town.

Johor Bahru Historical Marker

Johor Bahru has a rich history that dates as early as the 16th century but its urbanization began in 1855. Sultan Abu Bakar (1862-1895), the 21st Sultan of Johor, transformed Johor Bahru from a fishing village into a thriving city.

Johor Bahru

Jalan Tun Abdul Razak and the adjoining  Jalan Trus has a number of shophouses, mostly built in the 1920’s,with great heritage value. Here, traders from Arab, India and China used to come to trade spices and tobacco. Also along Jalan Tun Abdul Razak is the Johor Bahru Railway Station.

On October 10, 2010, the spanking new JB Sentral railway station, along Jalan Tun Abdul Razak and Jalan Jim Quee, was opened. The old train station, located just 200 m. south of JB Sentral, has been decommissioned, its platform 2 and its tracks dismantled.  Only one track and platform remain.  There are plans for it to be preserved for a future Mini Railway Museum for the Southern Region.

Johor Bahru Railway Station

The relatively old Plaza Kotaraya shopping center, along Jalan Trus, is only 5 minutes walk from the Malaysia Customs and Immigration Office.  Across the street is the Arulmigu Sri Raja Mariamman Devasthanam Hindu Temple.  Built in 1922, it is one of the town’s oldest Hindu temples and has an impressive gopuram (entrance tower).

The Arulmigu Sri Raja Mariamman Devasthanam Hindu Temple was rebuilt and was officially reopened in 1996. In 2009, the temple was embellished with an impressive mosaic of 300,000 pieces of red, blue, yellow, green, purple and white glass (completed in October 2009) and, on May 12, 2010, the temple was listed in the Malaysian Book of Records as the first and only glass temple in the nation.

Arulmigu Sri Raja Mariamman Devasthanam Hindu Temple and Plaza Kotaraya Shopping Center

After this relatively short walking tour of Johor Bahru, I retraced my steps back to the Malaysia Customs and Immigration Office to clear my departure and, this time, took a bus back to the Queen Street Bus Terminal in Singapore.

Arulmigu Sri Raja Mariamman Devasthanam Hindu Temple: 22 Lorong 1, Jalan Tebrau, Johor Bahru, Malaysia.

Repulse Bay and Tin Hau Temple (Hong Kong)

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Traveling along the main road between Aberdeen and Stanley, we could hardly believed that we were in a highly urbanized city such as Hong Kong as, along the way, we espied the resort-like setting of the wide, crescent-shaped beach of peaceful Repulse Bay at the southern part of Hong Kong Island.  The bay, once a haven for pirates intent on plundering foreign merchant ships trading with China, was so named after the British fleet repulsed the pirates in 1841.

Repulse Bay

Repulse Bay

Here, at the eastern end of the beach, we made a stopover at Tin Hau Temple, one of the oldest in Hong Kong and one of over 70 Tin Hau Temples throughout the colony.

Posing at the base of the statue of Tin Hau

Posing at the base of the statue of Tin Hau

This brightly-colored Taoist shrine has a pavilion, a small pier area and  two huge, more than 10 m. high statues – one for Tin Hau (the Goddess of the Sea) and the other for Kwun Yam (Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy).  Both goddesses hold a prominent place in traditional Chinese legends.

Posing in front of the statue of Kwan Yam

Posing in front of the statue of Kwun Yam

It also has a Chinese-style garden, leading down to the beach, and the Longevity Bridge, a little bridge with an inscription that says “Each time you cross this bridge, your life will be prolonged 3 days – Lau Hon-Wah.”

Posing in front of the Kwun Yam Shrine and Longevity Bridge

Posing in front of the Kwun Yam Shrine and Longevity Bridge

Great Taoist Temple (Cebu City, Cebu)

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After breakfast at the hotel, Grace and I were picked up at the hotel lobby for the start of our city tour.  We proceeded, via van, to Beverly Hills, a wealthy residential subdivision located 6 kms. from downtown.  Situated 300 m. above sea level, it has a panoramic view of the city, the harbor and Mactan Island.  Above it is Victoria Peak, named after the hill in Hongkong.  Beverly Hills has a number of Chinese temples.

The Great Taoist Temple

We made a stopover at the Great Taoist Temple which is open to worshippers and non-worshippers alike.  Accessible by 3 separate winding routes, the entrance of the temple is a replica of the Great Wall of China.  The smell of incense was everywhere but the temple was really quiet and peaceful.  From its spacious balconies, we had a panoramic view of Cebu City, Mactan Island and Bohol.  Taking pictures of the gods inside the temple was strictly prohibited.

The temple’s spacious balcony

Built in 1972 by Cebu’s substantial Chinese community (about 15% of the population), this huge multi-level complex of bright red and green pagodas, guardian lions and dragons, follows the slope of the terrain.  It was built in a highly ornate style of Chinese architecture and is topped with a pagoda-style roof.

This well-maintained temple preserves the teachings of the 600 B.C. philosopher, Lao-tze.  Taoists climb the 81 steps (representing the 81 chapters of Taoism scriptures) to the temple for the beautiful ceremonies, light joss sticks and have their fortunes read by the monks.  The temple also has a big dragon statue, a fish pond, an old bell, a chapel, a library, a souvenir shop and a wishing well.

Great Taoist Temple: Beverly Hills Subd., Lahug District, Cebu City, Cebu.  Open daily, 8 AM-5 PM. Admission is free.