The Busig-on River (Labo, Camarines Norte)

Nipa palms along the Busig-on River

We left Quinamanukan Island by 3:15 PM, the mainland just a 30-40 min. boat ride away.  Upon reaching the mainland, our boat made its way inland via the wide but sometimes shallow Busig-on River (the province’s longest river system), its muddy banks lined with nipa and coconut palms and backdropped by the 997 m. high Mt. Balagbag (known as the “Sleeping Giant”).  Every now and then, small, outrigger-less and high-bowed bancas would pass us by.  After negotiating a bend in the river, we finally reached port by 4:30 PM.  Amable Miranda of the Camarines NorteTourism Office was already waiting for us there.  After dining on angko, a local delicacy I bought and shared with the others, Amable drove us to Tabea Reichan Restaurant at Vinzons town proper where we had our “late” lunch.  After picking up our luggage at the Municipal Guest House along Bagasbas Blvd. in Daet, Amable drove us to the nearby, upscale Bagasbas Lighthouse Resort, Daet’s premier resort, where we were to stay (my second) for two days.

Tabea Reichan Restaurant: Poblacion (just across the municipal hall), Vinzons, Camarines Norte

Bagasbas Lighthouse Hotel Resort: Bagasbas Blvd., Daet, Camarines Norte.  Tel: (054) 441-5855.  Mobile number: (0916) 520-6783.  E-mail: info@bagasbaslighthouse.com. Website: www.bagasbaslighthouse.com.

Quinamanukan Island (Camarines Norte)

While we dining on the boat, we were merrily on our way to our next destination: the low, flat and heavily wooded, 6-hectare and footprint-shaped Quinamanukan Island, off Brgy, Sula in San Miguel Bay.

Quinamanukan Island

We were within sight of the island and its 1,000 m. long white sand beach by 1:30 PM but we had to circle it for half an hour, looking for a suitable landing site, with the boatman carefully steering the boat away from the delicate coral reef. We were welcomed by Mr. Samuel Pajarin, the island’s caretaker, who led us to his hut on the island’s opposite shore, we having to make a short hike through a well-marked trail through a forest to get there.  While Samuel was making coffee for us, I donned a diving mask and snorkel to explore the stunning and impressive submarine gardens (stony, whip and soft coral, black coral, etc.) of the island’s 200-hectare marine sanctuary, a breeding spot for different kinds of colorful tropical fish. The island is also ideal for scuba diving as it has drop-offs going down to 1,000 m.

Pinagkastilyuhan Island (Camarines Norte)

Pinagkastilyuhan Island

After returning to our campsite from our hilltop trek, we proceeded to pack up our stuff as we were to have our lunch at the mainland in Vinzons town.  We shoved off and said goodbye to Tinaga Island by 11 AM but it seems our hunger for islands to explore hasn’t been sated.  With some extra gas to burn and lots of enthusiasm, in spite of the overcast skies, we leisurely made our way to the privately-owned (by a Dr. Valencia) Pinagkastilyuhan Island (also called Cinastilyohan Island), making a brief stopover to photograph some goats sheltering on rocky outcrops on another island.  After a 30 min. trip, we made soon espied Pinagkastilyuhan Islandbut couldn’t make landfall as the water was too shallow for the boat to navigate.

Wading shallow waters to get to the island

Thus, we had to disembark from the boat some distance from the shore, me, Bernard, Karla, Lan, Debbee and Angel having to wade through ankle deep to sometimes waist deep waters to get to shore.  It was already drizzling when we arrived, prompting Lee decided to stay behind in the boat to avoid drenching his camera.  I was the first to make it to shore, the others soon following my lead.  The sand, though not as white as in Mahabang Buhangin, was just as fine and inviting.  However, prior to exploring the island, Debbee had to get clearance from the island’s lady caretaker, it being a privately-owned island.    We went maybe a fourth of the way around the island, where two islands beckon offshore.  The nearest seemed reachable but wading towards it was impossible as, halfway there, the water already reached up to my neck.  So near yet so far.   

Dining, kamayan style, on grilled fish

After some photo ops, we returned to where we landed and waded back to the boat.  While we were gone, Lee wasn’t idle, buying 5 large pieces of fish and a squid, from some passing fishermen, for the rock-bottom price of PhP100.  As soon as we raised anchor, Lee had this fresh catch grilled by the boatmen on a portable stove.  It was now noontime and time for lunch and, soon enough, we were dining on this feast, kamayan style, which we complemented with leftover fried rice.  

The Church Bells of Paracale

The bells of Paracale Church

Our longest stopover was at the Church of Our Lady of Candles in Paracale, my second such visit.  However, my visit here was notable as this was my first time to climb a church bell tower (and two at that at each end of the facade). The towers were approached by first climbing a steep stair from the nave to the choir loft and, from there, another less steep stair, but with a very low opening, to the towers.  The left belfry has two medium-sized bells bells  while the right belfry has two big and older (circa 1888) bells and a small bell. One of the newer bells had a recognizable signature stating that it was cast in 1920 by the Hilarion Sunico Foundry (the foundry has made 176 bells since 1872 and its last known bell was cast in 1937).  Some of the bells have visible cracks and all are colored blue-green possibly due to oxidation.  The towers had panoramic views of the municipal hall and town proper as well as the mountains beyond.

Labo Town Proper (Camarines Norte)

About 15 kms. out of Daet, we again made a short stopover at the busy, 648.84 sq. km. (more than 25% of the province’s total land area) and first-class municipality of Labo (2010 population: 92,041, the province’s most populous) where Bernard and I bought some shades at the market.

Labo town proper

Labo town proper

From the market, I walked over to the nearby Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist and the modern, 2-storey municipal hall for my own photo ops.

Labo Municipal Hall

Labo Municipal Hall

The church was built in 1890 by Fr. Sotero Martin (parish priest from 1891 to 1894).

Church of St. John the Evangelist & Apostle

Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church has a 2-level, Baroque-style coralstone facade with a triangular pediment with a centrally located, semicircular arched statued niche and topped by a square bell tower.

The lower level has a centrally located, semicircular arched main entrance flanked by fluted pilasters (topped by urn-like finials) and semicircular arched statued niches.

Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist: Brgy. Burgos, Labo 4604. Tel: ()54) 447-6325. Feast of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist: May 6.

Labo Municipal Hall: National Highway, Labo 4604. Tel: (054) 721-7412.  E-mail: inquiries@labo.gov.ph. Website: www.labo.gov.ph.