Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary (Corella, Bohol)

The tarsier in its nature habitat

Upon landing at Tagbilaran Airport, we were welcomed at the terminal by our local tour guide Mr. Josue Hinay of Travel Village and Tours.  Boarding our airconditioned coaster, we proceeded on our scheduled Countryside Tour of Bohol. After a 30-min./10 km. drive northeast of the city, we arrived at  the 7.4-hectare Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary.

The Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary

The Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary

An arm of the Philippine Tarsier Foundation, Inc. (PTFI), the sanctuary was established in 1996 to protect the tarsier (Tarsius syrichta), Bohol tourism’s mascot.  Known locally as mamag, mago, magau, maomag and magatilok-iok, here the tarsiers are allowed to live and reproduce freely in a natural setting.

What you should know about the tarsier

What you should know about the tarsier

The tarsiers, formerly hunted down, captured and then sold to local and foreign visitors, were declared to be specially protected faunal species of the Philippines by virtue of Proclamation No. 1030, as declared by former Pres. Fidel V. Ramos on June 23, 1997. A 167-hectare sanctuary has been set up in areas within Corella, Sikatuna and Loboc towns where numerous sightings of the tarsiers have been made within their forested domain. Poaching, killing and even wounding of these tarsiers as well as the destruction of its declared habitat are strictly prohibited.

Hiking along the Tarsier Trail

Hiking along the Tarsier Trail

Alighting from our coaster, we made our way to the Tarsier Research and Development Center which has a visitor’s center complete with a reception and souvenir counter, an exhibition area, an audio-visual room, a mini-cafeteria, toilets, and administration offices.  Here, we were assigned a trained volunteer guide who led us through a net enclosure with a 7-ft. high fence (to keep house cats out and the insects in) where 100 tarsiers are kept for feeding, breeding and display.

Taking turns potographing the tarsier

Taking turns potographing the tarsier

Here, we saw and observed, up close and personal, three of them in their nature habitat which consists of mature secondary growths of mahoganyteak and ficus trees as well as many varieties of palmfernbamboo clumps, tall grass patches, thick bushes and other greenery which grow in profusion.  We were allowed to take pictures but were urged to do so quietly and not to handle them so as not to put stress on these nocturnal animals who, during daytime, are asleep.

A close up shot

A close up shot

Back at the Visitors Center, Josue introduced us to Carlito “Lito” Pizarras, the Field Supervisor of the sanctuary.  Known as the “Tarsier Man,” Lito once hunted tarsiers for a living, shooting them out of the trees with an air rifle or trapping them for his father, a taxidermist who augmented the family income through the sale of the preserved, stuffed tarsiers which, at that time, went for PhP300.  He also caught them alive for collectors, hobbyists and tourists by simply shaking the trees until the tarsiers fell.

The Visitors Center

The Visitors Center

Sometime in the 1970s, Lito gave up his air gun, formaldehyde and the other awful tools of his trade, devoting the rest of his life in trying to save this exotic mascot of the Philippines’ receding tropical forests. He has since become an enthusiastic environmentalist and conservationist and, when he noticed their receding numbers, he began keeping several of the tarsiers at the backyard of his residence in Corella, breeding 20 of them successfully. In 1985, he sent 10 live tarsiers to the Chicago Zoo in the United States and, in 1998, he was hired by the foundation, maintaining the net enclosure and serving as a resource person and guide to visitors and researchers at the Research and Development Center. When the UK’s Prince Charles visited Manila on July1997, Lito made a symbolic presentation of a pair of tarsiers to his Royal Highness at Malacañang Palace.

The author with Carlito Pizarras

The author with Carlito Pizarras

Tarsier Research and Development Center: Km. 14, Brgy. Canapnapan, Corella, 6337 Bohol. Mobile numbers: (0927) 541-2290 (Program Manager). E-mail: joanniemaryc@yahoo.com. Website: www.tarsierfoundation.org.

Travel Village and Tours: Bohol Tropics Resort Club, Graham Ave.,
Tagbilaran City, Bohol.  Tel (038) 411-4023  and (038) 501-8078. Fax (038) 411-5928.  Website: www.boholtravelvillage.com.

Eker & Ely Lucban Longganisa and Pasalubong (Lucban, Quezon)

From the church, Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I walked towards Eker & Ely Lucban Longganisa and Pasalubong, situated just behind the church where, we were told, we could buy the best Lucban longganisa.  It was raining heavily, so we brought our umbrellas with us. Established in 1958 (incidentally the year I was born), Eker & Ely is one of 10 longganisa makers in town.

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Their Lucban Longanisa is sold by the dozen –  P150 for big longanisa and  P55 for small.  I bought two dozen packs of the former while the others bought packs of the latter.  It’s a good thing we arrived here in the morning as their longganisa is usually sold out by afternoon.

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Longganisa hung on poles for buyers to see

Aside from their bestseller longganisa, the store also sells different delicacies made in Lucban and other parts of the country.  The list includes macaroons, coco jam, broas (the local version of ladyfingers), uraro, miki lucban, piaya, pastillas, mazapan, galletas (egg cracklets) espasol, achara, espasol, coco vinegar, peanut brittle, peanuts, cashews, etc.

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Lanny, Violet and Maricar deciding on what to buy for pasalubong

Eker & Ely Lucban Longganisa and Pasalubong: 114 A. Racelis Ave., Lucban, Quezon. Tel: (042) 540-3304.  Mobile number (0920) 237-9056.

How To Get There: Lucban is located 160.36 km. from Manila and 23.7 kms. north of Lucena City. From Manila, it can be accessed via the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX, exit at Turbna) and the Manila East Road.

 

 

Beach Camping at Dampalitan Island (Padre Burgos, Quezon)

From Borawan in Lipata Island, Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I returned to our hired boat which was going to bring us to our camping destination – the rocky and undeveloped Dampalitan Beach on Dampalitan Island.

Western side of Dampalitan Beach

Western end of Dampalitan Beach

It was just a short 10-15 minute boat ride to the island and we made landfall just before noontime.  The island had a long, wide and lovely stretch of tree-lined white sand beach – the perfect beach camping ground.

Eastern end of Dampalitan Beach

Eastern end of Dampalitan Beach with exposed rock formations

As I was first off the boat, I proceeded to scout around for a suitable spot to set up our tent.  I found a spot somewhat shaded by some worn out and tattered coconut and pine-like agoho (Casuarina equisetifolia) trees.

Setting up the 5-pax Coleman tent

Setting up the 5-pax Coleman tent

Beside it is a bamboo picnic table and the remains of one of 10 nipa cottages which were damaged or destroyed by the recent typhoon Glenda (international name: Rammasun). Strung at the trunks of the trees are 4 threadbare but still sturdy hammocks.

Maricar, the author, Violet, Jandy and Lanny at our picnic table

Maricar, the author, Violet, Jandy and Lanny at our picnic table

Still, the spot suited us just fine.  The owner of the nearby house, which had a convenience store and a storage tank for fresh water (sold at PhP50 per container), informed us on the fees to be paid – an entrance fee of PhP60 per person (total: PhP300) plus a camping fee of PhP200.  We also rented the nearby picnic table (for PhP150) where we temporarily laid down our just unloaded camping gear and  provisions.

Lazing around in our hammocks

Lazing around in our hammocks

First up on our agenda was the setting up of our 5-pax, 3 m. x 3 m. Coleman dome tent with peaked rainfly.  That done, we rested awhile, with Violet, Maricar, Jandy and Lanny doing so on the hammocks while I did so in our tent.  Come late afternoon, the sun was now low on the horizon and low tide was setting in so we decided to do some swimming and explore the now exposed rock formations. Cloudy skies prevented us from viewing the sunset.

Exploring the exposed rock formations

Exploring the exposed rock formations

When we returned to our campsite, another group of young overnight campers have already set up their tents beside us and were already preparing their barbecue grills for dinner.  We also followed their lead, borrowing a grille from the caretaker and buying a pack of charcoal as we also brought along some juicy, marinated pork belly (liempo) for grilling.  While Violet and Lanny were tending to the grilling, Maricar was busy preparing her signature yang chow fried rice.

Dusk at Dampalitan Island

Dusk at Dampalitan Island

After enjoying this wonderful al fresco repast, we next washed away the sea salt from our bodies, Jandy and I sharing a container of fresh water.  We all whiled the time away by playing a card game of  pekwa (the Philippine name for the game fan tan or card dominoes) and later chatted about our life experiences.  Retiring early, Violet, Maricar, Jandy and I occupying the tent while Lanny slept in one of the hammocks outside.  The night was initially warm but it slowly cooled, via an incoming sea breeze, in the wee hours of the morning.

Dinner preparation courtesy of Maricar, Violet and Lanny

Dinner preparation courtesy of Maricar, Violet and Lanny

Come morning, breakfast was another al fresco affair, with pork luncheon meat,  freshly cooked steamed rice and cups of coffee.  We then dismantled our tent and packed our belongings.  As we still had time before the 10 AM arrival of our boat, the others went swimming while I decided to explore the island beyond the cliffs confining the cove.

Our grilled pork belly (liempo)

Our grilled pork belly (liempo)

Past the cliffs was another cove with a long, beautiful but deserted stretch of white sand beach lined, not by trees, but by mangroves.  I didn’t go very far as the sun was high up in the sky and I forgot to bring a hat.  When I returned to our campsite, our boat had already arrived and our gear loaded.  After paying our bill, we boarded our boat for the short return trip back to our cottage at Brgy. Basiao where, after washing up, we loaded our stuff and left for Lucban (Quezon).

The magrove-lined, white sand cove beyond the cliff

The magrove-lined, white sand cove beyond the cliff

Dampalitan Beach may not be outstandingly beautiful but it is still nice and somewhat laid-back, offering a quiet beach retreat quite unlike crowded and overdeveloped beaches such as Boracay.  Similar to Anawangin or Nagsasa Cove in Zambales, it is really more for camping, picnicking, swimming, hiking, watching the sunset or just lazing around in a hammock.

Borawan Beach (Padre Burgos, Quezon)

After an early breakfast of corned beef and rice at Basiao Resort, Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I double checked all the stuff we were to bring for our island hopping and beach camping (at Dampalitan Island) trip – tent, portable stove, rechargeable lamp, provisions, extra clothes, etc. Our boatman arrived by 8 AM and he started to load all our stuff.

Borawan Beach

Borawan Beach

Limestone cliffs

Limestone cliffs

Soon we were off to our first destination – Lipata Island.  We arrived there after a short 15-min. boat trip.  The island is the site of Borawan Beach, situated within lush mountains and rocky cliffs overlooking the Tayabas Bay in the Sibuyan Sea.  Day trippers here are required to pay an admission fee of PhP80 per person (plus another fee if you will stay overnight).

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When we arrived, the island was somehow pack with a number of overnight guests who stayed in tents (for those without one, these can be rented for PhP500).  The island also has communal showers (PhP20) and toilets (PhP10) with fresh water.  There are also a few nipa picnic huts for rent and a small store selling overpriced food and snacks.

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The island’s name is said to be a portmanteau (blend) of the world-famous islands of Boracay and Palawan. Indeed, the beach has its own spectacular (though not as grand) rock formations like the limestone cliffs of Palawan but, sorry to say, not the crystal-clear waters and the fine, white sand of Boracay. The coarse sand beach is actually beige and it certainly isn’t a long stretch dotted with coconut trees. Instead, the shoreline of this short stretch of beach is dotted with huge rock boulders with a backdrop of high limestone walls.

A small store selling food and drinks and renting out tents

A small store selling food and drinks and renting out tents

The shower room and picnic huts

The shower room and picnic huts

Still, its towering, Palawan-like karst formations and limestone cliffs are perfect for rock climbing, bouldering and rappelling.  It’s also a good venue for photo ops.  Swimming here is done cautiously as there are a lot of sea urchins and jellyfish.  The overnighters also told us that they saw 3 sea snakes near the huge boulder.  Anyway, we didn’t plan to stay overnight on the island.  After partaking of our packed lunch of adobo and rice, we left the island by 11 AM.

Lanny, Violet, Maricar, the author and Jandy

Lanny, Violet, Maricar, the author and Jandy

How To Get There: Go to Brgy. Marao in Padre Burgos and, from there, you can rent a boat bound for Borawan.

Return to Puting Buhangin Beach (Pagbilao, Quezon)

Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I have barely caught our breath upon arriving at Basiao Resort but, as it was still early in the afternoon, we decided to avail of a island hoping tour.   Normally, it cost PhP1,800 for a day tour but, as we were doing it over 2 days, we were to pay PhP2,000.  We had a choice of 3 islands – Dampalitan Island, Lipata Island and Pagbilao Grande Island.

On our way to Pagbilao Grande Island

On our way to Pagbilao Grande Island

The first two, part of Padre Burgos town, were just nearby so we chose the latter which was part of Pagbilao town.  This wouldn’t be my first visit to the island, having done so during a media tour at Pagbilao a little over 4 months ago.  However, this would be the first time I would leave for the island from Padre Burgos which is, distance-wise, nearer to the island than Pagbilao town.

The Bagosina island with a house on top

The Bagosina island with a house on top

For this island tour, we just donned our swimming attire.  The boat trip took just 45 mins. Along the way, we passed the nearest of the Bagosina Islands, which had an unsightly roofless house (damaged by typhoon Glenda) on top.

Lipata Island

Lipata Island

We also passed the white sand beaches and towering rock formations of Lipata Island (site of Borawan Beach), one of our 2 island destinations scheduled for tomorrow (the other is Dampalitan Island).

A hill being graded at the TEAM Power Plant in Pagbilao Grande Island

A hill being graded at the TEAM Power Plant in Pagbilao Grande Island

At Pagbilao Grande Island, only the tall chimney of 735-MW Team (Tokyo Electrification and Marubeni) Energy coal-fired thermal power plant  could be seen during our boat trip.  We also saw the damage being done on the nearby hill, possibly to create a new road for the power plant.  It wasn’t a nice sight.

Puting Buhangin Beach

Puting Buhangin Beach

We soon made landfall at the beautiful cove of the 70 m.  long and 10 m. wide Puting Buhangin (which literally means “white sand”) Beach with its white sand, clear emerald waters and coconut trees.  Unlike my first visit, the beach (also called Lukang Beach  after the Lukang family) wasn’t  as  packed with picnickers and beachcombers.

Violet, Maricar and Jandy near the Kuwebang Lambas' beachside entrance

Violet, Maricar and Jandy near the Kuwebang Lambas’ beachside entrance

However, we were more interested at the small, unique and tunnel-like  Kwebang Lampas, located at one end of the beach, than with the beach itself.  During my first visit, the waters inside the cave were waist deep and we didn’t venture to go out its seaside entrance.  This time around, it was low tide and the cave floor was exposed.  What’s more, we were able to venture out its seaside exit, below beautiful rock limestone formations, and enjoy the warm waters.

Kuwebang Lampas (2)

Back at our boat, we paid the mandatory PhP80 entrance fee per person (PhP400 for all five of us).  It was now late in the afternoon when we returned to the mainland and our boat had to dock some distance from the shore as it was now low tide.

Jandy, Maricar, the author at Lanny at Kwebang Lampas

Jandy, Maricar, the author at Lanny at Kwebang Lampas

Puting Buhangin Beach: Pagbilao Grande Island, Brgy. Ibabang Polo, Pagbilao, Quezon.

Old Market, Pub Street and Angkor Night Market (Siem Reap, Cambodia)

Angkor Night Market

Though the focus for most visitors to Siem Reap are the ancient temples of Angkor, there is still much to do  after dark. After all, Siem Reap is a tourist town and the liveliest, ‘must see’ areas after dark are the Old Market area, and its surrounding area which includes the nearby Pub Street, the alley and lane off Pub Street, and the Angkor Night Market area (open in 2007, it is the first night market in the country).

Psar Chaa (Old Market)

The very popular,tourist-friendly and open-air Psar Chaa (Old Market) stretches from the river across to the night markets along Sivutha Blvd.. (the main north – south road a block or so west of the market). It is now the dining, shopping and nightlife center of town. Here,Osang, Violet, Jandy and I had dinner at the Nai Khmer Restaurant and Bar.

Pub Street by day

They offer the deepest selection of Khmer antiques semi-precious stones, and tourist souvenirs (T-shirts, backpacks, silverware, silk scarves, wallets, key chains, etc.), especially on the river side. You have to learn how to haggle, taking it to an art form level when buying more than one item..

Osang and Violet at Nai Khmer Restaurant & Bar

The north side of the market. along Street 9, is a good place for a budget meal and a taste of Cambodian cuisine as it sports a number of inexpensive cafe stalls serving Cambodian fare in an interesting, local atmosphere.

A variety of goods sold at Angkor Night Market

The Angkor Night Market, with a labyrinth of over 240 shops, fosters a very Cambodian atmosphere with its series of stylishly traditional, Khmer style huts. Items sold here include paintings, wood carvings, silk, and local delicacies.

Jandy at the Old Market

Weaver at Angkor Night Market

There were also a few massage and spa bars.  Here, Violet had a free fish spa massage after a foreigner challenged her to last 5 mins., with her legs immersed and nibbled on by fish.  He lost and paid for the session.  At a massage spa, we all indulged in a little more pampering after a full day of exploring the city.

Violet rises to a challenge at a fish spa at Angkor Night Market

Pub Street, a couple of blocks from the Angkor Night Market, is a short alley flanked by clubs, bars and restaurants that offer a wide variety of  Khmer culinary specialties and Western favorites.

Osang and Violet join revelers at Pub Street

Psar Chaa (Old Market): 2 Thnou St, Krong Siem Reap

Central Market (Phnom Penh, Cambodia)

After our ice cream treat at Sorya Shopping Center (we were again to return here for supper), Osang, Violet, Jandy and I continued on our way to the nearby Central Market, a Phnom Penh landmark and “must see” stop just a 5-min. walk away.

The Central Market

The Central Market

The large, bright ochre-colored Phnom Penh Central Market or Psar Thmay  (“new market”),  built in 1937 in the  Art Deco style,  consists of four wings branching out into vast hallways and dominated by a central dome.  When it first opened, it was said to be the biggest market in Asia. Its initial design and layout were done by French architect Louis Chauchon and its construction work was supervised by French architects Jean Desbois and Wladimir Kandaouroff.  During the Franco-Thai War, the market was bombed heavily by Thai aircraft, causing heavy damage, and it had to be temporarily closed. After the end of World War II, the market was rebuilt in the modern style. From 2009 to 2011, it underwent a US$4.2 million renovation funded by the French Development Agency.

The market interior

The market interior

Within the four wings as well as around the compound outside,  almost anything you can think of are on sale.  The extensive amount of products that are offered for bargain include electronic equipment, second hand clothing, watches, bags, suitcases, gold and silver curios , dried and fresh foodstuff, jewelry, cheap t-shirts, kramas (Khmer scarves), antique coins, pseudo-antiques, clocks, fabrics, shoes, flowers, luggage, books (including photocopied travel guides) and lots of souvenirs (key chains, ref magnets, postcards, etc.).

The market's huge dome

The market’s huge dome

Central Market: Neayok Souk, Phnom Penh 855.  Open daily, 5 AM – 5 PM.

Sorya Shopping Center (Phnom Penh, Cambodia)

After our National Museum and Royal Palace tour, Osang, Violet, Jandy and I made our way, on foot, back to our respective hotels to rest and freshen up.  After an hour, we again met up, this time to go shopping for souvenirs at the nearby Central Market.  Again, we made our way on foot.  Along the way, we decided to make a short stopover at the 8-storey, Western-style Sorya Shopping Center, located just one block south of the Central Market.

Sorya Shopping Center

Sorya Shopping Center

The first real mall in the city, this 40,000 sq. m. airconditioned shopping oasis, the largest in the city, was quite large, with passenger elevators and escalators (then a strange novelty when it opened in 2003).  Inside were a number of Western fastfood restaurants at every level ( Pizza Co., Master Grill, Kentucky Fried Chicken,  BBQ Chicken, BBWorld, Lucky Burger, etc.) plus a a variety of shops selling clothes, shoes, jewelry, toys, imitation watches, latest release DVD copies and some electronics and appliances.

Osang and Violet trying out the foot massage demo

Osang and Violet trying out the foot massage demo

As we entered the lobby, we encountered a lot of “demo” booths promoting products such as a stainless steel multi-tiered steamer; a stride-glide exerciser; a hand-held vacuum and recliner-massage-chairs.  Osang and Violet each tried out the foot massager.We  also each tried out a sundae treat (US$2.30 each), with many premium quality toppings such as Mars, Snicker, Oreo Cookie, etc., at Swensen’s, a premium ice cream parlor which originated from the U.S.A.  It opened its first branch in Sorya Shopping Center in September 2007.

"Cooling off" at Swensen's

“Cooling off” at Swensen’s

The well-stocked Lucky Supermarket, the first supermarket set up in Phnom Penh (and now the city’s largest supermarket chain), has a branch at the ground floor. On the upper floors there  a 3D cinema complex (Sabay Cineplex, Level 5), roller skating rink, sporting goods store (City Mart Sports Supply, Level 4) and games arcade.

Swensen's sundaes

Swensen’s sundaes

After shopping at Central Mall, we all had dinner at the  local food court at Level 4. Virtually all varieties of dishes were available at very reasonably prices of US$2.00 to 5.00. However, their coupon system was a hassle as we had to buy a ticket first before ordering food from any outlet.

Food Court

Food Court

Though less colorful than the traditional markets, Sorya Mall was still a such a good place to cool down, hang out or simply to take a break from the ‘culture shock’ that hit us when we arrived in Phnom Penh.

Food court fare

Food court fare

Sorya Shopping Center: 11-13 Preah Trasak Paem (Street 63),  Phsar Thmei 2 Commune , Daun Penh District, Phnom Penh.  Tel: +855 23 210 018 and +855 16 700 001. Open daily, 9 AM to 9 PM.

Half-Day Cu Chi Tunnel Tour (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam)

No visit to Ho Chi Minh City is complete without a visit to the infamous Cu Chi Tunnels and, during our walking tour of the French Quarter, Osang, Violet, Jandy and I visited the Saigon Tourist Office to book a half-day afternoon guided tour.  After lunch at the Propaganda Cafe, we promptly returned to the tourist office by 1 PM where we were to be picked up by our tour bus.

The video documentary

The video documentary

This 75-mile (121 km.) long complex of tunnels has been preserved by the Vietnamese government and turned into a war memorial park with two different tunnel display sites open to visitors – Ben Dinh, closer to Saigon, and Ben Duoc (15 kms. further) which contains part of the original tunnel system. We were to visit the former, the site where most group tours go. As such, it can be extremely crowded.

Exhibit of Vietnam-era weapons

Exhibit of Vietnam-era weapons

Our 40-km. trip to Ben Dinh took us 1.5 hours. There are a number of stalls selling food and drinks near the entrance. Our Cu Chi tunnel tour started at a classroom-style hut with a wall chart and a cross-section of the tunnels.  Here, we were shown an introductory black and white, Russian-made video detailing the tunnel’s long 25-year construction as well as live footage of American planes dousing the land with Agent Orange and destroying it with bombs.

A B-52 bomb crater

A B-52 bomb crater

Then, Mr. Do Thanh Ngan, our local English-speaking guide took us on a fascinating tour of the Cu Chi tunnels along a well defined walking track, with lots of interesting things to see spaced at regular intervals, that loops around the area. Along the way, we walked past huge, mind-boggling hollow basins of earth, actually bomb craters that are evidence of the heavy B-52 bombing campaigns in the region during the Vietnam War.

Entrance to the Ham Hoi Truong (meeting room)

Entrance to the Ham Hoi Truong (meeting room)

During the Vietnam War, the tunnel system was a safe haven for thousands of Vietnamese soldiers and civilians and it was virtually an underground city with dwelling houses, schools, hospitals and factories. Through lots of compelling photos and personal effects left behind, we learned more about the conditions these people lived in, the hardships they faced, and the amazing ingenuity employed to maintain life in the tunnels.  We also saw examples of how people lived and what they ate.

Jandy trying out the hidden tunnel entrance

Jandy trying out the hidden tunnel entrance

At one seemingly empty area, our guide pointed to us a small, hidden tunnel entrance just beneath our feet.  A Vietnamese soldier first demonstrated to us how to enter and exit the tunnel, closing the entrance with a 2 x 1.5-ft. manhole cover.  A tourist also successfully tried her hand in doing so, followed by Jandy.

An array of terrifying but lethal booby traps

An array of terrifying but lethal booby traps

Chong bo (door trap)

Chong bo (door trap): heavily spiked wooden cross sections suspended above a door or opening via a trip wire.  When the wire is tripped, the trap swings down and impales the victim

A see-saw trap

A see-saw trap with sharp punji sticks at the bottom of the pit

Also on display were the different types of lethally terrifying but clever booby traps using punji sticks, ironically made from the scrap metal of the American’s artillery, bomb and rocket shells, which were used on American soldiers – chong bat (swinging up trap), chong can coi (see-saw trap), chong canh cua (window trap), chong ghe xep (folding chair trap), chong tru quay (rolling trap), chong-hom (fish trap), chong bo (door trap) and hong tho (sticking trap).

Chimneys

Tiny chimneys that disperses smoke from the kitchen

Tiny ventilation shafts

Tiny ventilation shafts

We also wandered past tiny little chimneys in the ground that dispersed smoke from the underground hoang cam kitchens, tiny ventilation shafts and climbed up what remained of a U.S. army M-41 tank destroyed by a delay mine in 1970.  Underground conference rooms (ham hoi truong), where campaigns such as the Tet Offensive were planned in 1968, have also been restored.   There were also some mannequins re-enacting soldiers in different settings (an army camp, military workshop, etc.).

The destroyed American M-41 tank

The destroyed American M-41 light tank

Jandy and I, as well as other guests, were given the opportunity to do a tough crawl through a 100 m. long section of the “touristed” tunnels, never part of the real network, which have been specially created and enlarged (around 50%) and widened so that the larger Western tourists can now fit through.  Though low powered lights have been installed to make traveling through them easier, it is still not recommended for the claustrophobic.

The tunnel entrance

The tunnel entrance

The tunnel we entered

The tunnel we entered

Violet tried but gave up while Osang remained above ground.  The crawl space was so small and tight that I found it impossible to believe that anyone ever survived here before the tunnel was enlarged. For those who may not want to, or may not be able to continue, exit points were located at the 20 m., 40m., 60m. and 80 m. marks. Jandy and I exited after 20 m.  This was the highlight of our tour

Cong binh xuong (military workshop)

Cong binh xuong (military workshop)

A sandal-making factory

A sandal-making factory

Other above-ground attractions include numerous souvenir shops, at the end of the walking track, some focusing on war memorabilia as well as the traditional Vietnamese souvenirs which could be found elsewhere.  Nearby is a shooting range where visitors can play real war games by firing a variety of authentic Vietnam-era assault weapons such as the K-54 pistol, the M-16 rifle, AK-47, M1 carbine, M1 Garand, Russian SKS and the M-30 and M-60 light machine guns.

Jandy at one of the souvenir shops

Jandy at one of the souvenir shops

Firing range rates

Firing range rates

Sounds like great fun but I cannot help but put off from my mind what these “toys” were really designed for – killing. Besides firing a weapon costs 20,000 VND/bullet (US$0.95) for the K-54 pistol all the way up to 40,000 VND/bullet (US$1.88) for AK-47 and M-60 machine gun, and you have to buy at least 10 bullets (you can, however, share these with someone else).

Jandy, Violet and Osang posing with some manikins

Jandy, Violet and Osang posing with a pair of mannequins

The Beached Ships of Tacloban City (Leyte)

As a consequence of Typhoon Yolanda (international name: Haiyan) hitting Tacloban City and the ensuing tsunami-like storm surge, a number of ocean-going ships were beached. These hulking ships are fast becoming a tourist destinations by themselves. During my visit to Tacloban, 8 months after Yolanda, I made it a point to visit some of these huge boats.

MV Eva Jocelyn (4 were pinned here)

MV Eva Jocelyn (4 were pinned here)

A total of 10 commercial ships were were swept inland during the onslaught of Typhoon Yolanda. Eight were stuck in Rawis and Anibong Districts, one in Brgy. Diit, and one near San Juanico Bridge. In addition, two government vessels; a dredger found in Fatima Village in Brgy. 75, owned by the Department of Public Works and Highways; and a ship owned by the Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources; were also beached.

Beached Ships at Anibong (16)

Five more ships were beached in Quinapondan and Guiuan (Eastern Samar) – the MV Eastern Samar (Lilygene Shipping Lines Inc in Guiuan, Eastern Samar, owned by Mr. Generoso Yu), the MV Lady of Fatima (owner unknown); and 2 tugboats (MT Maharlika-A and MT Maharlika-B) and a barge (Vicente Uno) of Vicente Lao Construction based in Davao City.

Beached Ships at Anibong (12)

The MV Gayle (Unilink Shipping Corp., owned by Alfred Yanglua of Cebu), a big part of which was already floating on the water (making it easier to pull away from the shore), was removed from the shore last April in a salvage operation that lasted for 30 minutes. Afterwards, it was brought to Cebu City to be fixed (its propeller was destroyed and its engine needed to be replaced).

Beached Ships at Anibong (13)

Nine other ships have yet to be removed – the MV Eva Jocelyn (Eva Shipping Lines of Mandaue City, Cebu); the  MV RKK 1 (RKK Shipping Lines, Inc.); the MV Star Hilongos (Roble Shipping Corp., owned by Joey Roble of Cebu); MV David Legaspi (Candano Shipping Corp., owned by Elena Candano of Tabaco City, Albay); the MV Jaguar (Tacloban Oil Mill of Tolosa, Leyte); the MV Ligaya V (Avega Brothers Integrated Shipping Corp. in Makati City); the MV Lancer (Matsya Shipping of Cebu City) the MV Tomi Elegance (Tacloban Oil Mill ); and LCT Rosman (owned by businessman Richmond Ng of Quezon City, Metro Manila).

Beached Ships at Anibong (17)
At Brgy. 68 (where the typhoon claimed 20 lives), we visited the 3,000-ton, red and blue MV Eva Jocelyn.  When the supertyphoon smashed through Tacloban, a dozen cinderblock houses were directly hit by the ship and 4 residents were later found dead, pinned by the ship. Now sitting on unstable ground composed of debris, this ship is tilting due to the movement of the deteriorating ground. This could crush surrounding makeshift houses that were repaired by their owners.  A bizarre sight was tourists having their picture taken right in front of this ship’s massive hull that flattened homes and killed people.

Beached Ships at Anibong (19)

However, these beached ships are temporary “tourist attractions” as the Philippine Coast Guard (PCG) wants the ship owners to retract, refloat or make into scrap their vessels by the end of January or mid-February 2015, otherwise, the PCG would salvage the ships at the owner’s expense.

The DPWH Barge

The beached DPWH dredger at Fatima Village

The owners, however, appear hesitant to immediately remove the vessels because of unfinished documentation for insurance claims.  The residents want them removed as they have been “imprisoned” by these cargo vessels. They are also a painful reminder to them and hinder the removal and cleaning of the debris as well as in restoring the devastated coastal areas.