Church of St. James the Great (Bolinao, Pangasinan)

Church of St. James the Great

After an early morning breakfast at the Capitol Resort Hotel in Lingayen, we again boarded our van for the premier tourism town of Bolinao, a major destination during our 3-day (April 4-6, 2011) Pangasinan Media Tour.  Here, it 69,568 townspeople speak the unique Bolinawen dialect.  This wasn’t my first visit to this paradise place, having gone there during a 2005 Holy Week break with my son Jandy and two friends at Patar Beach. Four years after my first visit, on May 7, 2009, super typhoon Emong (international code name: Chan Hom, packing winds of 150 kph with a gustiness of 185 kph) made a 7 PM landfall in Bolinao and, in less than an hour, damaged 80-90% of its houses, blocked roads with fallen trees, destroyed 95% of its aquaculture industry and killed at least 20 people (with 4 missing), mostly fish cage caretakers who stayed on their makeshift huts.

Municipal Hall

However, nothing could really bring a good town down and, through the cooperation of its townspeople, the town has somehow recovered.  We arrived in town in the midst of a high school graduation in front of the town hall and first visited its venerable Church of St. James the Great. This solid, stone church, built by the Augustinian Recollects in 1609, used to double as a fortress against attacks by pirates, the English, Japanese and Americans.  Today, this church (as well as 25 other churches) is listed by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure. 

The church interior

The church’s roof and ceiling were damaged during the typhoon but its roof and its trusses (now steel) have since been replaced though still ceiling-less. However, the impressive High Renaissance façade, with its weathered wooden santos in the niches, the bell tower and the beautiful, intricately carved retablos and pulpit remain intact.

Fr. Odorico Marker

In front of the church is a memorial marker which challenges the accepted historical fact of the March 31, 1521 first Mass held at Limasawa in Southern Leyte. Instead, the town claims that, in 1324, an Italian (from Friuli) Franciscan Fr. Odorico, en route to China for missionary work, encountered stormy weather and sought refuge at Bolinao Bay.  While on land, he celebrated a thanksgiving Mass and also baptized the natives, making him the first evangelizer in the Philippines.  The marker was donated by Italian priest Fr. Luigi Malamocco, 62, also from Fr. Odorico’s hometown of  Friuli, Italy.

Museo de Nuestra Senora de Manaoag (Pangasinan)

Image of Our Lady

Last April 4-6, I was invited by events organizer Mr. Bernard Supetran to cover the Agew na Pangasinan Festival (the provincial foundation anniversary) of Pangasinan. Together with my photographer daughter Cheska, we met up with Bernard, Mr. Amadis Ma. Guerrero of Philippine Daily Inquirer, Mr. Vince Lopez of Manila Bulletin and travel blogger (http://mvlnunez.blogspot.com/) and good friend Mr. Mark Vincent Nunez  at MacDonalds near De La Salle University along Taft Ave. in Pasay City.  Along the way, we also picked up Lakbay Norte 2 colleague Ms. Kara Santos of Sunday Inquirer at Quezon City.   Our first destination would be the Shrine of Our Lady of Manaoag.  The trip took longer than expected as we made a wrong turn at Urdaneta City, reaching as far as Calasiao before we realized our mistake.  We backtracked and made it to Manaoag and the shrine by 1:30 PM.  

Museo de Nuestra Senora de Manaoag

I have been  to the shrine many times, the last time just 70 days ago during the first leg of my Lakbay Norte 2 tour, visiting its newly inaugurated Candle Gallery.  Time constraints then made us miss visiting its Museo de Nuestra Senora de Manaoag.  Now the opportunity presented itself.  The museum, first opened on May 10, 2000 (incidentally Cheska’s 10th birthday), was recently renovated and inaugurated again last April 21, 2010.  Its display includes an old carroza used to transport the image during her procession, an earlier pedestal, a collection of embroidered, pre-Vatican II chasubles, capes and a dalmatic (possibly dating back as far as the 17th century); a collection of monstrances, chalices, ciboria, patens and communion plates; silver candelabras with the unmistakable markings of the Dominican seal; an old wooden statue of St. Dominic; golden crown, staff, rostrillo, aureola and embroidered cape that are used to embellish the image; perfume bottles and pieces of jewelry.that adorn the statue of Our Lady.  

The “Church on a Hill” exhibit

One panel on the wall, “The Church On a Hill,” narrates the history of the town’s church. Another interesting display are the letters of the devotees who are seeking divine assistance for the many concerns of life, such as success, cure, enlightenment and relationship. At the center of the hall is a beautiful 3 ft. high ivory statue of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag mounted on a huge, carved wooden bulk of clouds from which three cherubim heads pop out. A visitor can write  prayers on pieces of paper  provided on a console table at the right side of the image.In front of the image is an antique wooden bench.  A mounted flat television on the wall depicts the history, the miracles and personal reflections related to Our Lady of Manaoag.  

Museo de Nuestra Senora de Manaoag:  Shrine of Our Lady of Manaoag, Milo St. cor. N. Garcia Rd., Manaoag, Pangasinan.  Tel: (075) 529-0249 and 519-2547.  Fax: (075) 529-0132.  Website: www.ourladyofmanaoag.org. Open Mondays to Sundays (except Tuesdays), 8 AM-4:30 PM. Admission is free of charge but donations are welcomed to augment museum maintenance and education program.

Church of St. Peter the Martyr (Sual, Pangasinan)

Fr. Gabriel Perez began the construction of the town’s first church and convent (which was later completed by Fr.Juan Gutierrez) The church was completed by Fr. Pedro Villanova in 1870.

Church of St. Peter the Martyr

Church of St. Peter the Martyr

A second church, started in 1883 during the term of Fr. Felix Casas, was completed by Fr.r Eugenio Minguez in 1891 and later consecrated on June 8, 1893. It was destroyed during the liberation in 1945. 

The church's interior

The church’s interior

The present church is the town’s third.  Since 1949, the parish has been under the administration of the Columban Fathers.

The main retablo

The main retablo

Its fancy post-Baroque or Early Spanish Colonial Revival facade has a low entablature (which does not fit the classical proportions of the Renaissance style) and staggered placement of columns on the first and second levels (which provides an element of irregular rhythm). On the church’s left is the bell tower.

Retablo on the left

Retablo on the left

Retablo on the right

Retablo on the right

Church of St. Peter the Martyr: Brgy. Capantolan, Sual 2403, Pangasinan. Tel (075) 548-2072.

How to Get There: Sual is located 352 kilometers from Manila.

Malacanang of the North (Paoay, Ilocos Norte)

Malacanang ti Amianan

After our short stopover at Paoay Lake in Paoay, we now proceeded to the two-storey Malacanang ti Amianan (Malacañang of the North), one of the 29 former vacation houses of the Marcoses.  This was to be our last Lakbay Norte 2 tourist destination. Located uphill, on the first road past the Maharlika Hall of Fort Ilocandia Resort Lake Golf and Country Club, this hardwood mansion was built in 1977 by former First Lady Imelda Marcos, along the edge of Paoay Lake, to commemorate the 60th birthday of the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos and as a vacation home and cabinet meeting place.

The baby grand piano beside the grand staircase

After the Marcoses lost power in 1986, the property was sequestered and the Philippine Tourism Authority was given custodianship of the property for 24 years but had neglected its upkeep.  When Imee Marcos became governor of Ilocos Norte in 2010, she had the house restored at a cost of PhP7 million and inaugurated it again on January 1, 2011. During the restoration, all the wooden furniture sets and fixtures were reupholstered or repaired. Now a museum and a venue for grand weddings, private functions and corporate and theme events, it has a photo gallery of the late president  and displays some of the personal belongings of the Marcoses, life-size Ferdinand Marcos mannequins and Congresswoman Imelda’s Cora Jacob arm candy and other clutches.

Life-size Ferdinand Marcos mannequins

The museum was supposed to be closed during our visit, it being a Monday, but our media group was given special permission to visit by the provincial government.  Ms. Letty Buduan, who served the Marcoses for over three decades, and seven others keep the museum spic and span.  The narra floors were so shiny and the furniture dust-free.  In the past, visitors here included George HamiltonNora AunorGabby Concepcion, among others.  Nowadays, bus loads of school children and guests frequent this museum which offers a breathtaking and panoramic view of Paoay Lake, especially during sunset.

Formal dining area

This huge, 1,900 sq. m. mansion, on a  roughly 4 hectare lot, has nine luxurious bedrooms, two living rooms, two formal dining areas, two kitchens and two verandahs. Imelda Marcos’ bedroom, the largest of the nine, displays some of her handbags.  Imee and Irene shared a bedroom while Bongbong’s and the late president’s master bedroom were both located at the ground floor.  They all slept in canopied beds.  A baby grand piano is located by the staircase.

The verandah with its panoramic view of Paoay Lake

After our Malacanang ti Amianan Museum visit, we all boarded our bus as we headed back to Laoag City for our 9:30 PM return flight back to Manila.  But first, we had dinner at Texicano Hotel and there, said goodbye to our gracious hosts, the Ilocos Norte Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Malacanang ti Amianan: Brgy. Suba, Paoay, Ilocos Norte. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM-11:30 PM.  Admission fee: PhP30 for adults and PhP10 for children.

Ilocos Norte Convention and Visitors Bureau: Room 2, Balay da Blas, 10 Giron St., Brgy. 7-B, Laoag City, Ilocos Norte.  Mobile number: (0920) 269-1544.  E-mail: stevebarreiro@yahoo.com.  Website: http://northphilippines.org/destinations/ilocos-norte.

Paoay Lake National Park (Ilocos Norte)

Cattle and boats for hire line the lake shore

After our brief sojourn in Batac City, we next proceeded to the Malacanang Ti Amianan (Malacanang of the North) in Paoay.  Along the way, we made a brief stopover at the view deck of Paoay Lake National Park.  This 470-hectare, horseshoe-shaped lake, the largest in the province, was declared as a National Park on June 21, 1969 by virtue of Republic Act No. 5631.  Once known as Naguyudan, it is known to the locals as Dakkel a Danum and is a popular picnic site. The lake is artificially seeded with various species of colorful fish and is 10 m. deep, yet the surface is below sea level.  Its fresh water comes from a subterranean source.

Lakbay Norte 2 at Lake Paoay National Park

According to a charming but Sodom and Gomorrah-like legend, it is said that a once-prosperous town, San Juan de Sahagun, once stood where the lake is now.  The materialism of the town and the indolence of its people incurred God’s wrath, so he sent an earthquake and flood waters that swallowed up the town and formed the lake.   Town elders will tell you that the original townsfolk, in gaudy fiesta finery, can still be seen as colorful, transformed fishes swimming around with earrings and bracelets.  Geological studies indicate that the lake was formed by a massive earthquake that caused the ground to sink and be filled with water from underground springs.  

A barge used to cross the lake

The lake is ideal for bird watching   Common residents here include the endemic Philippine Duck (Anas luzonica), the White-Collared Kingfisher (Halcyon chloris), the White-Throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smymensis), the Brahminy Kite, cattle egret and little egret. Migratory birds that linger for a while here include the Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula), the Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea), great egret and the osprey. Cottages (PhP50) can be rented at the viewing deck.

Paoay Lake is located north of Paoay town, 3 kms. off the main highway and 3 kms. from the sea.

Marcos Museum and Mausoleum (Batac City, Ilocos Norte)

Marcos Museum and Mausoleum

We were now on our last day of our 6-day North Philippines Visitors Bureau (NPVB)/Manila North Tollways Corp. (MNTC)-sponsored Labay Norte 2 media tour and, after our Playa Tropical Resort Hotel presscon in Currimao, we returned again to the Ilocos Norte Hotel and Convention Center for lunch and another presscon, this time with former presidential daughter and now Ilocos Norte Gov.  Maria Imelda “Imee” R. Marcos.   After that, we proceeded to nearby Batac City to visit the Marcos Museum and Mausoleum and the Imelda Marcos Gallery.  This would be my second visit to the former and my first to the latter. A few meters from the museum is the Romanesque-style Church of the Immaculate Conception. 

The presidential table

The Marcos Museum and Mausoleum was the colonial-style, wood and adobe boyhood ancestral home of the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos who moved to Batac from Sarrat when he was 8 years old.  Housing the memorabilia of the former president, this modest, 3-room museum has a wall dedicated to Marcos’ wartime service in the Philippine Army, as a soldier in the defense of Bataan and with American Forces after liberation. There are also photos of him and Imelda, his military awards, his letters, important documents, license plates of his cars, the bust of the president and his work desk at Malacanang. At the second floor are the offices of former presidential children Ferdinand “Bongbong” E. Marcos, Jr. (now a senator) and Gov. Imee R. Marcos when they were Second District congressmen. 

Imelda Marcos Residence

On the right side of the house is the Marcos Mausoleum where the glass-encased, embalmed corpse of the late president lies, since 1993, in a vacuum-sealed, refrigerated crypt.  Marcos died in exile in Hawaii on September 28, 1989 and his body was brought to his hometown in Batac while awaiting a state funeral at the Libingan ng mga Bayani.  The president is dressed in a white barong tagalog with a red, white and blue ceremonial sash and polished medals. The dimly lit interior is filled with piped-in soft Gregorian chant music. Visitors are not allowed to take pictures inside.  I guess the only time photos were ever taken of Marcos’ corpse was when former First Lady and Imelda R. Marcos visited it for some publicity shots.

Marcos Photo Gallery

Also within the compound is another ancestral house used as the office of now Second District congresswoman Imelda Marcos.  We also dropped by the nearby Marcos Photo Gallery (World Peace Center), a 200-photo archive of the Marcos family. They include a collage of news clippings and photos during the Marcos era.  Prior to leaving Batac City for Paoay, I bought a cowboy hat (PhP150) at one of the sidewalk stalls and tried out the Batac empanada. 

Marcos Museum and Mausoleum: Marcos Ave., Batac City, Ilocos Norte. Open daily, 9 AM- 12 noon and 1-4 PM. 

Arrival in Currimao (Ilocos Norte)

Playa Tropical Resort Hote: Solana Spa (left) and the Casas

It was midnight when we ended our cocktails and videoke night at Balay da Blas in Laoag City and, after saying goodbye to our hosts, we proceeded to Currimao where we were to stay overnight at Playa Tropical Resort Hotel.  It already past midnight when we arrived at the resort and, after checking in at our rooms, grabbed some much needed shuteye. It was with some effort that I went down for breakfast at the resort’s Cafe Amarra for my coffee fix and fill of breakfast.

Check out “Resort Review: Playa Tropical Resort Hotel

As we still had time prior to our presscon at the hotel, Ian Garcia, Astra Alegre, Kara Santos, Ivan ManDy and I decided to visit nearby Sitio Remedios Heritage Village, going there via the gray sand beach.  It was starting to rain upon our arrival at the resort  and it was only after the rain stopped that we got to explore the grounds.

Check out “Resort Feature: Sitio Remedios Heritage Village

Here, we were welcomed here by Rene Gluatco, our Pasuquin, Paoay and Sarrat local guide and historian.

Check out “The Biscocho of Pasuquin

Rene treated us to some hot native chocolate at the resort’s Abrao Restaurant by the sea.  The restaurant serves local Ilocano fare (bagnet, Vigan longanisa, etc.), fresh fruit juices, and refreshing herbal drinks and teas. Rene then toured us around the resort.

From left, Ian Garcia, Rene Guatlo, Ivan
ManDy and Astra Alegre

Back at Playa Tropical, we then had our presscon with Gen. Manager Kenji Numano whom, I later found out, prior to leaving, is a fellow Merville Subd. resident and a friend of my daughter  Cheska. Small world.

Check out “Resort Review: Playa Tropical Resort Hotel

Presscon with resort GM Kenji Numano (standing) at Solana
Playa Tropical Resort: Brgy. Victoria, Currimao, Ilocos Norte 2903. Tel: (077) 676-1001 and 670-1211. E-mail: stay@playatropical.com.ph.  Website: www.playatropical.com.ph.

Sitio Remedios Heritage Village: Brgy. Victoria, Currimao, Ilocos Norte.  Mobile number: (0920) 925-0217.  Email: sitio_remedios@yahoo.com. Website: www.sitioremedios.com.

Back to Laoag City (Ilocos Norte)

After our La Paz Sand Dunes adventure, we again boarded our shuttle bus for San Nicolas   where we were invited for a buffet dinner at Ilocos Rosewell Hotel and Restaurant’s atrium-style lobby. After dinner we checked out the hotel’s rooms.
After our dinner at Rosewell Hotel and Restaurant, we were in for another round of eating, this time at Balay de Blas Pensionne House in Laoag City, as guests of hotel owner Mr. Sammy Bas, for some cocktails and videoke.  The hotel was formerly a residence of the Blas family until it opened its doors to tourists.
Executive Suite bedroom at Balay de Blas

Before everything else, we were allowed to freshen up at its executive suite. The room’s furnishings were all period pieces and one table had a Singer sewing machine base, same as the those in Cafe Herencia in Paoay, where Sammy is a co-owner.

Check out “Restaurant Review: Cafe Herencia

Spacious living room (take note of the Singer sewing machine
table at center)

Sammy also owns Saramsam Ylocano Restaurant and guests can place their orders through the hotel.  The restaurant offers Ilocano dishes (bagnetigadopoque-poquedinakdakpinakbet, etc.) as well as avant-garde versions of the traditional Ilocano fare fused with Western cuisine such as Saramsam pasta, poque-poque pizza and dinuguan pizza.  Some of these dishes were served to us during our cocktails and videoke night which was emceed by media colleagues Ron Rivera and Kenneth del Rosario.

Ilocos Rosewell Hotel and Restaurant: Brgy 1, San Francisco National Highway, San Nicolas, Ilocos Norte. Tel: (077) 670-6528 and 781-2122.  Fax: (077) 781-3700.  Website: www.ilocosrosewellhotel.com.

Balay da Blas Pensionne House: 10 Giron St., Brgy. 7-B, Laoag City, Ilocos Norte.  Tel: (077) 770-4389.  Email: balaydablas@yahoo.com. Website: www.balaydablas.com.

Saramsam Ylocano Restaurant: N. Corpuz Bldg., Rizal cor. Hizon St., Brgy. 7-A, Laoag City, Ilocos Norte.  Tel: (077) 771-5825.  Email: balaydablas@yahoo.com.

Church of St. Monica (Sarrat, Ilocos Norte)

Church of St. Monica and bell tower
After visiting the Marcos Museum in Sarrat, we returned to our bus and proceeded to the nearby Church of St. Monica, also located along the Padsan River.  Probably the largest church in the province, it was first built in 1779 by Augustinian friars, the last Spanish-era church built in the Ilocos.  Its red brick exterior facade blends simple and formally organized Neo-Classic proportions (a central main entrance and smaller side windows, all decorated by triangular pediments) with Baroque features (massive, heavily-rounded pilasters on solid rectangular pedestals with elaborate and curvilinear scroll-like pediments with heavily outlined volutes).
 
Convent

The impressive convent, known as the Casa del Palacio Real, was first built in 1779, reconstructed  in 1817 and 1886 and completed by Fr. Celedonio Paniagua. It was, at times, used as a Presidencia Municipal.  Within its environs then were a jail where criminals and political prisoners were incarcerated and tortured, a sala court, a strangulation room and other secular sections. It also served, for a time, as the Colegio de Santa Monica (a branch of the Liceo de Manila). The convent is now a parochial museum (Casa Paroquial Sarrat).  A unique, massive and attractive brick staircase connects the convent with the  church.

The brick staircase connect church and convent

The church and convent survived many calamities – fire on February 3, 1816 and 1882 and an earthquake on March 19, 1932 (its bell tower was damaged).     The church interior, along with the houses surrounding the plaza, were renovated in 1983 for Irene Marcos‘ (the youngest daughter of the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos) June wedding to Greggy Araneta.  The lavish ceremony was attended by 5,000 guests and cost an estimated US$10.3 million.  Food was provided for over 100,000. A few months later, on September 7, 1983, an Intensity 7.8 earthquake severely damaged the church’s main altar and upper facade. The former 3-storey square brick bell tower of diminishing sizes lost its top storeys. 

Marcos Museum (Sarrat, Ilocos Norte)

Marcos Museum

After our lunch and church visit at Paoay, we again boarded our bus for Sarrat, the birthplace of the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos.  Our first stop was, fittingly, the Marcos Museum.  The museum, overlooking the Padsan River, is actually the Edralin house where Marcos was born on September 11, 1917 to Mariano and Josefa Edralin Marcos, both school teachers from well-to-do families.  He lived here until he was 8 years old when his family moved to Batac.  

The museum’s ground floor

The house then was a traditional 2-storey bahay na bato, with a red brick ground floor for storage and the wooden upper level, with its hardwood floor, reserved for the living quarters.  It was renovated by  First Lady Imelda R. Marcos in 1977, the president’s  60th birthday, but was left abandoned after the fall of the Marcos before being restored again.   Many of the items on display were taken from the Malacanang Palace Museum as well as from the Malacanang of the North in Paoay.   

The museum’s second floor

On display are the 4-poster bed where Marcos was born, the old clock set to the time of his birth, the many barong tagalogs he wore on different occasions, musical instruments (harp, piano, etc.), many old photographs of the family, busts of Don Mariano and Dona Josefa Marcos, the license plates Marcos used for his cars, the Marcos family tree on the wall facing the stairs, as well as documents and old furniture (the escrihana used by Don Fructuoso Edralin y Carpio, the presidents grandfather, when he was vice-gobernadorcillo; the president’s swivel chair, aparadors, etc.).

Marcos Museum: Brgy. San Agustin, Sarrat, Ilocos Norte.  Open Mondays-Saturdays, 8 AM-12 noon and 2-5 PM.