Category Archives: Isabela

Balay San Jose (Santa Maria, Isabela)

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Rancho Agripino

After our pottery tour at Brgy. Poblacion 3, we again boarded our bus for the short 7.1-km. (20-min.) drive, via the Enrile-Santa Maria Rd., to Balay San Jose within Rancho Agripina, owned by Santa Maria Mayor Hilario “Larry G. Pagauitan, whose Sanctaurio de San Jose (a favorite wedding venue) and Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe (a retreat center) are visited by tourists and religious pilgrims.

Entrance

Upon entering the gate, our bus drove along a dirt road lined with life-side statues depicting the Stations of the Cross (Via Crusis).

One of the Stations of the Cross along the road

Upon arrival, we first dropped by the Sanctuario de San Jose, a chapel was built in memory of Maria Lourdes Gatan Pagauitan (November 19, 1988 – June 12, 2008), the mayor’s and his wife Sofie’s late daughter who died in a car accident. It was solemnly blest and its altar dedicated on November 19, 2015 (Maria’s birthday) by Most Rev. Sergio L. Utleg, D.D., Archbishop of the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Tuguegarao.

Sanctuario de San Jose

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The chapel has a two-level Baroque-style façade topped by a triangular pediment and flanked by three-storey, square bell towers topped by a dome and cross.  The first level has an entrance portico (topped by angel statues) which has a statue of St. Joseph with the Child Jesus and is flanked by, flat pilasters, 3 semicircular arch stained glass windows and a semicircular arch statued niche.

The second level has a similar set up, the only difference being the statued niche above the entrance portico.  The triangular pediment has a circular, stained glass rose window within a bas-relief of a Jerusalem Cross, a cross potent (or crutch cross) with four Greek crosses.

The first two storeys of the flanking bell towers have semicircular arch blind windows while the receding third storey, housing the church bell, has open, semicircular arch windows.

Statue of St. Joseph and the Child Jesus

The left bell tower has the sign of “Banal na Pag-aaral Center, Area 11, Northern Luzon.”

The chapel interior

The main altar and its retablo

Inside the chapel are three altars (main and two side altars) with exquisitely carved retablos (altar backdrop), a painted barrel vaulted ceiling, colorful stained glass windows, religious statuary and a triforium (interior gallery)

Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe

Main entrance

Connected to the chapel, on it’s left, is the Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe (St. Joseph House of Spirituality), which was solemnly blest on September 19, 2014 by Bishop Joseph A. Nacua, O.F.M., Cap. D.D. of the Diocese of Ilagan.  This retreat house has has 42 airconditioned rooms with private bath, four dormitories (two large and two small), refectories, conference hall, lunch room, chapels and a beautifully landscaped garden.  In front is an open air lanai topped by a view deck which is accessed by stairs.

The author at the viewdeck

Open-air lanai

In front of the chapel are statues of Christ Resurrected, St. Michael the Archangel and Tablets of the Ten Commandments.   On the right side of the chapel is a tableau depicting Christ Appearing Before his Disciples.

Statue of St.Michael the Archangel

Tableau of Christ Appears to His Disciples

We also dropped by its museum which is filled with reiligous statuary of all sizes, paintings, photos  and other religious artifacts such as monstrances, chalices, crucifixes, etc..

Museum of relious statuary,paintings, photos and artifacts

Also within Rancho Agripino is St. Joseph Library, Lourdes Chapel, Casa di Marello (for visiting priests and brothers of the Oblates of St. Joseph founded by St. Joseph Marello), Galilee (a cluster of airconditioned huts in the middle of a lake), Chapel of the Santo Sepulchro and the Risen Lord (a chapel with the image of Our Lady of Sorrows and the Risen Christ), The Hermitage (a solitary place for those who want to be alone with the Lord), a helipad  and a medical center (MLGP Medical Center).

MLGP Medical Center

Helipad

Balay San Jose: Rancho Agripino, Brgy. Calamagui West, Santa Maria 3330, Isabela.

How to Get There: Santa Maria is located 451.1 kms. (an 8.5-hour drive) from Manila and 67.8 kms. (a 1.5-hour drive) from the City of Ilagan.

The Potters of Santa Maria (Isabela)

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The pottery of the Ybanags of Santa Maria, Isabela

On our fifth day in Isabela, we boarded our tour bus for the long 85-km. (2-hour) drive to Santa Maria where we were to observe the indigenous Ybanag method of producing pots and earthen ware.  Along the way, we crossed the Cagayan River via the Cabagan – Santa Maria Overflow Bridge (usually impassable during heavy rains) which will soon be replaced by the still unfinished, 720 m. long, 12-span, P639.6 million Santa Maria-Cabagan Landmark Bridge.

Santa Maria-Cabagan Landmark Bridge

Upon arrival at Brgy.Poblacion 3, one of four barangays engaged in pottery making (the others are Poblacion 2, San Rafael West and Quinagabian) located in the interior northwestern part of the province, we were welcomed by Santa Maria Vice-Mayor Michael Abraham G. Pagauitan and Municipal Tourism Officer Rex T. Arao.  After registering ourselves at the barangay hall, both toured us around the center of pottery making in the community.

Municipal Tourism Officer Rex T. Arao (center) with members of national media

The unique indigenous pottery traditions of the Madweng inan Ybanag community showcase the Ybanag (or Ibanag) culture as a whole. Their pottery products differ from other ethnographic people with the way they make this earthenware which they call dweng, an Ybanag term derived from Madweng, referring to an Ybanag  potter who makes and sells pottery products made from clay and other indigenous materials.

Members of national media

Santa Maria boasts huge non -metallic deposit of clay (davvun) or mud containing minerals and other organic materials which are similar to those plant and animal remains which is the basically the main ingredient of the dweng (pot). The dweng products of Santa Maria include pots for cooking purposes, vases, storage jars, garden and home decorations and bricks.

Since 1954, save for a minimal technological advancement in manufacturing pots using the hurmaan ( molder), there have been no major changes in the method of manufacture from the teachings of the Kalingas. Like other tribes of the Cordillera Central as well as the Bukidnon, Tausug, Pampango, and Cebuano, they use a technique called “paddle and anvil.”

Finished products for viewing

However, the Pampango, Cebuano, and Tausug use an anvil made of stone while the Mandukayan Kalinga use their hands to shape the pot and press its walls thin, then the inside is smoothened by a curved piece of bamboo.  The Ybanag pottery tradition was introduced by the Kalingas.  Forming the dweng products of Santa Maria does not happen in single hour or day. To assure its quality upon utilization, it involves various stages and processes in their pottery making.

Scrap wood, garani (rice straw)and carabao/cow manure is inserted in spaces between the pots in preparation for the baking process

First, the davvun, from vast lands nearby, are delivered to their community via a careta, carts pulled by tamed animals. The soft davvun (clay) is first manually pounded and then stored in a humid place covered with plastic ready for the Madweng to mammakkal, the process where the clay is being formed in round balls ready to be hollowed.

Ms. Ruby Canceran, a more than 20-year veteran of pottery making, hollowing out the clay

The molded clay is then wrapped individually with plastic to maintain its moisture, ready for the next stage – the matuvugan (from a root word tuvug meaning “in addition”). In this process, davvun is being added to increase its height and width. Gradually, as it widen, a pempel (a rectangular, flat wooden paddle) is used to paddle the pot while inside is an adadamma (a flat stone) which supports the appepe (a flat wooden paddle used to give shape).  All the while, the Madweng paddles to ensure the right shape of the earthen jar. They then need to be dried and covered again for some hours to form the lid of the pot.

A Madweng woman using a pempel (a flat, wooden paddle) to ensure the right shape of the jar

In the mabibigan (from the root word bibig meaning “mouth) stage, the lid of the pot is formed with the appepe on the outside, opposite a smooth batu (stone anvil to hollow pre-molded round balls) held inside.

Using a potters wheel

Likewise, a kingkil, an inch wide bamboo stick, is used to scrape and smoothen the rough portion of the pot. The walls of the pot are systematically and carefully made thin, smooth and even with the aid of a lupedas or gami, a soft wet cloth used for trimming the edges of the rim of the pot during the finishing stage. It takes an hour to dry.

Using a bamboo stick

After it dries, the pot is ready for the matumpo stage where the pot is turned upside down. As the pot does not yet have a foot to stand up on its own, the base needs to be leveled or flattened using the appepe and the batu to stand.

The next stage is the matakyang (from the Ybanag term meddan tu takki na meaning “to add support”). In this process, a tȁgang (a pre-formed clay patterned from the lid of an aluminum pot) is designed to hold the pot in place until it dries.

Maffulang (painting) stage

After this process is systematically done, the pots are now ready for the maffulang (painting) stage.  A kind of davvun is used to color or paint the pots red.  For a while, the davvun is soaked in water to soften the soil, ready to be kneaded, until it becomes fine.  The residue is strained to ensure the finest quality. In this stage, a commercial paint brush is used to paint the pot to its natural look. To facilitate the painting faster, a potter’s wheel, manually operated by the foot, is used to yield more than a hand does.

After mafulla stage, the pots will be dried for a while.  They proceed to makkili stage where uneven or rugged parts of the pots are scraped and a lupedas used for the finishing touches. Next is the akkingki , another step to keep the pots shiny.

Garani (rice straw)

When this is done, the pots are now ready for the last stage for all kinds or types of dweng – the magabba or maluttu (firing, baking or cooking) stage.  Magabba is an Ibanag term which means to cook or “mallutu.”  This stage is usually done in the their own workshop or within an open area adjacent to their houses. This busy and laborious day for the potters, done with so much prudence and caution during the hottest ray of sunshine, takes a whole day, from the preparation down to cooking and cooling.

Carabao/cow manure

In the cooking area, the dweng is arranged on top of the evenly scattered pieces of dried wood or the carabao/cow manure and evenly covered by garani (rice straw) as each side is protected by unused or rejected dwengs, in anticipation of a possible collapse happening. Then the firing begins. Depending on the products and its volume, cooking hours ranges from a minimum of 3 to 5 hours. This indigenous way of cooking has been introduced and practiced for a long time and until the present.

Magabba (baking stage)

How to Get There: Santa Maria is located 451.2 kms. (a 10-hr. drive), via the Pan Philippine Highway, AH26, to Manila and 7.8 kms. (a 1.5-hr. drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Municipal Tourism, Culture and Arts Office: mobile number: (0905) 692-1342.

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar (Cauayan City, Isabela)

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Church of Our Lady of the Pillar

Come morning of our fourth day in Isabela, we toured the nearby (3-km.) Church of Our Lady of the Pillar.  This church, built with stone, mortar and bricks, was begun in 1825 by Dominican Fr.  Juan Prieto and finished in 1830.

The Baroque facade

During World War II, the church was heavily damaged (parts of the church, the sides of the presbytery were hit) and the convent was destroyed. This church, as well as the Church of St. Rose of Lima in Gamu, and the Church of Our Lady of Atocha in Alicia, are examples of what is called as the “Cagayan Style” of Spanish churches that was inspired by the Tuguegarao church.

Check out “Church of Our Lady of Atocha” and “Church of St. Rose of Lima“

Bas-reliefs featuring curlicues

The left side of the church

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The church’s two-level, Baroque brick (portions of the bricks have bas-reliefs and numbers and symbols etched on it) façade, similar to the Church of Our Lady of Atocha in Alicia, has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by semicircular arched windows.

The second level has a centrally located statued niche flank by semicircular arched windows. The undulating pediment, with its centrally located rose window, is topped by finials.

 

Check out “Church of Our Lady of Atocha”

The modern church interior

The rear of the church

The modern interior of the church has a fresco (The Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary) above the altar.

The Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary

The top level of its beautiful five-storey bell tower on the right was later destroyed during the violent December 27, 1949 Intensity 7 earthquake, leaving only the base, and the upper level is a modern addition.

The old church bells and a plaque narrating the history of the parish

During our visit, we were allowed to climb to the very top of the tower where we had a panoramic bird’s eye view of the city and the surrounding countryside.

The Parish PastoralCenter

Candle house with a huge statue of Our Lady of the Pillar above it

Displayed on the right side of the church, between a plaque detailing the history of the parish, are two old church bells, dated 1792 and 1843 respectively.  Around the church are huge statues of the Pieta and Jesus Christ, a Candle House (above which is a huge statue of Our Lady of the Pillar) and a 2-storey Parish Pastoral Center (inaugurated on April 12, 2014) with function rooms and a parish museum.

Statue of the Pieta

At the rear are bas-reliefs of The Last Supper, The Holy Face of Jesus and The Sorrowful Mother.

Bas-reliefs of The Holy Face of Jesus, The Sorrowful Mother and The Last Supper

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar: Mabini St., Cauayan City, Isabela. Tel: (078) 652-2014 and (078) 634-5049. Feast of Our Lady of the Pillar: October 12.

How to Get There: Cauayan City is located 374 kms. (a 9-hour drive) from Manila and 33 kms. from Ilagan City.

Isabela Museum and Library (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

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Isabela Museum and Library

On our third day in Isabela, a break in the Bambanti Festival proceedings brought us to the Isabela Museum and Library. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by Mr. Jesus Fernandez Ordonez, Museum Researcher II who was to tour us around the museum.

The Neo-Classical facade

The two-storey museum showcases Isabela’s history and cultural heritage. Among the museum’s collections are antique furniture, fossils, ethnographic items, heirloom pieces, visual arts (photographs, paintings, sculpture, and graphic arts), artworks, historical and cultural dioramas and miniature models of provincial landmarks, among others.

Display at museum lobby

The building where the museum is located, built in 1946, once housed the province’s old capitol until 1991.  When a provincial capitol buiding was built in Brgy. Alibagu, Gov. Benjamin G. Dy decided to convert the old building into a museum and library.

Bambantii Festival Exhibit

Architect Baltazar Gigantone was commissioned to redesign the building into a museum.  On May 11, 1991, the new museum was inaugurated during the 143rd founding anniversary of the province.  In 2019, the museum was rehabilitated by Gov. Faustino G. Dy III.

Diorama of the Capture of Emilio Aguinaldo

Upon entry, one of the first exhibit we noticed was the diorama of the March 23, 1901 capture of Pres. Emilio Aguinaldo in Palanan by American Gen. Frederick Funston. One by one, we toured the museum’s numerous galleries.

Farming Implements

The Cultural Heritage/Antiques Gallery, on the right wing, is the first gallery we visited.  It displays, as its name implies, antique furniture, religious artifacts (monstrances, statuary, chalices, candle holders, etc.), relics from old structures (St. Matthias Church, Bungad Bridge, San Vicente Ferrer Chapel, San Pablo Church Ruins, Casa Real, etc.), burnay pottery, ceramic water filter (ca. 1930 – 1960), World War II memorabilia (M1 helmets, canteens, mess kits, Japanese rifle, nesting cups, etc.)and Scouting Jamboree memorabilia.

Check out “Church of St.Matthias“

Sewing machines, typewriters, etc.

Old appliances, office equipment and everyday items on display include typewriters (Underwood, Royal, etc.), gas-operated flat irons, single-burner mini gas stoves, Singer sewing machines, prinsa (old style metal pan filled with hot coals), Gramophone records, an abacus, ash trays, case gin bottles (cuatro cantos), a Mansfield automatic film projector, Canon cameras, an  Olympia adding machine,  Paymaster check writer/printer, Gramophone, farming implements and a dadapilan (sugar cane crusher) and old wooden storage chests.

Cooking Implements and Wooden Chests

Burnay Pottery

The adjoining gallery houses the memorabilia of the late Sen. Heherson Alvarez (clothes, books, photos, etc.), the Governors’ Memorabilia and the Portraits of Power Gallery.

Portraits of Power Gallery

Memorabilia of Sen. Heherson Alvarez

On the left wing are the Awards and Bambanti Festival Gallery (gowns, photos, etc.), the Selyo Gallery (displays first day of issue Philippine stamps), Revolving Exhibit Gallery and Numismatics Gallery (displays coins and paper currency).

Selyo Gallery (Philippine stamps, first day of issue)

Numismatics Gallery (coins and paper currency)

Awards and Bambanti Festival Gallery

Another room houses the Contemporary Arts Gallery (Art Capital of the North Gallery, Visual Arts and Scaled Models).

Contemporary Arts Gallery

Scaled models

The Tilamsik ng Liwanag (Splash of Light”) Gallery displays replicas of Katipunan flags and photos of historical events (the Propaganda Movement, Katipunan Movement, Philippine Revolution, the Malolos Constitution, Philippine-American War, World War II, the Japanese Occupation, Martial Law years, People Power Revolution, etc.) and personalities (Jose Rizal, Emilio Aguinaldo, Manuel L. Quezon, etc.).

Tilamsik ng Liwanag (Splash of Light”) Gallery

The library has 21,793 books (including the minutes of session of the Provincial Board, from 1909 to 2011, the oldest in the country).

Library

Minutes of Session of the Provincial Board, the oldest in the country

Isabela Museum and Library: Arranz St., Brgy. Osmena, City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Tel: (078) 307-3004 and (078) 323-3146.  E-mail: isabelamuseumandlibrary@gmail.com and isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com. Open Mondays to Fridays, 8 AM – 5PM.

CVRC Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

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CVRC Agro-Ecotourism and Organic Farm

The Cagayan Valley Research Center (CVRC) Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm, strategically located at the back of  the Ilagan Public Market and adjacent to the National Highway, was accredited by the Department of Tourism (DOT) on May 23, 2016.

Vermicompost Production Area

The CVRC is one of the Bureau of Agricultural Research’s active partners in research and development (R&D) in the region and is also a certified third party organic farm as issued by the OCCP, certified last August 2017 and renewed last October 29, 2018.  On June 5, 2016, it was also accredited as a learning site.

Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex

Learning Center and Museum for Organic Agriculture

The farm has an approximate are of 32 hectares of which 8 hectares is for the experimental farm, 10 hectares for the non-experimental farm and 14 hectares for the expansion area.

Personnel transplanting seedlings into trays

It offers organic vegetables, edible landscaping and vermicompost production which are open for public visits and stakeholders, particularly farmers, entrepreneurs and students.

Plant Genetic Resources Center

Organic Seed Storage Display House

It is home to the Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex, the Plant Genetics Resources Center, Organic Seed Storage Display House, the Learning Center and Museum for Organic Agriculture, Herbal Garden, Children’s Park, Alphabet Garden, Pinakbet Park, a butterfly sanctuary, sunflower garden, tunnel garden, a floating restaurant, Youth Garden, a kid zone garden and the Children’s Park with a haven of organic plants and vegetables.

Alphabet Garden

Mushroom Production Area

The Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex, a satellite station of the CVRC, is the regional show window of the Department of Agriculture that is responsible for the promotion of soil and water management and conservation measures for agricultural development.

Herbal Garden

Solar System Garden

The Plant Genetics Resources Center (PGRC), inaugurated in May 2018, caters to the conservation of collected germplasm of major crops in the Cagayan Valley.

Children’s Park

Bahay Kubo

Here, you can pick and pay (bingwit mo, bayad mo) for your vegetables and they also have a fishing area, picnic cottages and offer bikes for rent (Php50/hour).  They also sell chickens, ducks, mushrooms, lettuce and other vegetables.

Statue of a Carabao Cooling Itself in Mud

Statues of Children Playing Luksong Tinik

CVRC Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm: Purok 2, Brgy. San Felipe, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Mobile number: (0956) 096-3388 and (0927) 910-1166.  E-mail: cvrc.rfo@da.gov.ph and da.cvrc@yahoo.com.  Website: www.cagayanvalley.da.gov.ph. Admission: Php20.

Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

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Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center

On the afternoon of our second day in Isabela, we were driven to the Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center which is run by the Department of Agriculture-Cagayan Valley Research Center (DA-CVRC)   Employees Multi-purpose Cooperative.  Mangi is the Ybanag word for “corn.”

Ms. Elizabet Allam

Located just adjacent to the Isabela Police Provincial Office and the Ilagan Public Market, the food house is an innovative breakthrough of the DA-CVRC, promoting corn and its products.  The City of Ilagan is the country’s Corn Capital (with 80% of the population being corn farmers) and this restaurant offers corn fare such as corn coffee, energy ball, puto, nachos, inandappel,  corn shake, pansi de mangi, pastillas de mangi, all made with corn.

Corn-based food products

Here, we were welcomed by its manager Ms. Elizabeth S. Allam.  Ms. Allam has developed various corn recipes such as creamy cornbonara (with flat noodles made of purple corn), pinataro (its take on ginatan where the galapong is corn-based), cornganisa (a vegan sausage composed of mushrooms, malunggay, tofu and, of course, corn), and creamy corn pizza (corn is used for the topping, sauce and dough).

During our visit, Elizabeth introduced to us their decadent soft-serve ice cream – cornbetes. This corn-based product was launched by DA-CVRC Chairman William Contillo on October 12, 2019, the second day of the “Kain Na” Food and Travel Festival, North Luzon Edition at the Ayala Technohub in Baguio City. We each tasted the pure flavors of corn with crunchy corn kernels.

Cornbetes

Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center: Acacia St., Brgy. Baligatan, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Mobile number: (0977) 213-1136, (0915)902-5266 and (0939) 115-6879.  E-mail: dacviarcempc@yahoo.com.

Church of Our Lady of Atocha (Alicia, Isabela)

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Church of Our Lady of Atocha

We after checking out at The Sophia Hotel and brunch, with Vice-Gov. Faustino “Bogie” Dy III, we were finally on our way back to Manila but, 23.4 kms. out of the city, we made a short stopover at the beautiful and solid Church of Our Lady of Atocha (Nuestra Señora de Atocha) in Alicia.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: The Sophia Hotel“

 Built by Fr. Tomas Calderon, O.P. and roofed with G.I. sheets by Fr. Manuel Alvarez, it was inaugurated in February 1849, with Fr. Francisco Gainza, OP, then vicar of Carig (now Santiago City), in attendance.  The church served as a safe refuge for Yogads from the plundering Ifugaos.

The Baroque facade

This 753.48 sq. m. church, the smallest (in terms of floor area) and the youngest (at 171 years) Spanish-era church in the Cagayan Valley, has a brick façade with a semicircular arched main entrance on the first level and semicircular arched statue niches on the second level, all flanked by engaged columns that divide the façade into 3 segments.

Antique church bell above entrance portico to bell tower

It also has a two-level undulating pediment topped by urn-like finials.  The four-storey, quadrilateral and domed bell tower, on the church’s left, has blind semicircular arches on the fourth level.  At the tower’s base is an entrance portico with the church’s old (1876) bell displayed prominently at the top.

The modern church interior

This church, as well as the Church of St. Rose of Lima in Gamu, and the Church of Our Lady of the Pillar in Cauayan City, are examples of what is called as the “Cagayan Style” of Spanish churches that was inspired by the Tuguegarao church. It was officially declared by the Philippine Department of Tourism as a national religious tourist destination in the Philippines.

Check out “Church of St. Rose of Lima” and “Church of Our Lady of the Pillar“

Statue of Our Lady of Atocha

Church of Our Lady of Atocha: Maharlika Highway, Brgy. Antonino, Alicia 3306, Isabela.  Tel: (078) 662-7108.  Mobile number: (0908) 36-3045.  Feast of Our Lady of Atocha: September 8.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com.

How to Get There: Alicia is located 353.72 kms. from Manila and 59 kms. southwest of the City of Ilagan.

San Pablo de Cabigan Church Ruins (San Pablo, Isabela)

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San Pablo de Cabigan Church Ruins

This church, the oldest in Isabela, was was built using adobe instead of red bricks, which sets it apart from most of the Spanish-colonial era churches of the Cagayan Valley.

Now in ruins, this church was founded by Dominican Fr. Pedro de Santo Tomas in 1625.  Probably the third on that site, the present structure was built in 1709 by Fr. Diego de la Torre.

Buttresses at the side of the church

It was already damaged by Japanese bombing in World War II when the strong December 27, 1949 Intensity 7 earthquake further damaged it.  Three years later a fire destroyed the church’s roof.

Within the ruins, a smaller church, a third of the original structure, was built in the 1950s. The rest is a garden.

The facade of the church built in the 1950s

The interior of the church

The church’s two level High Baroque-style façade has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by semicircular arched statue niches containing icons of St. Paul, St. Vincent Ferrer and St. Isidore, now all defaced.

The author seated at the stairs leading up to the entrance to the bell tower

The second level has a centrally located statue niche flanked by circular windows.  The undulating pediment has a centrally located circular window and finials. Gorgeous clay insets of rosettes and sun emblems decorate the elegant walls.

The 6-storey bell tower

Its six-storey square bell tower, on the church’s right, is the tallest in the Cagayan Valley.  Rising in receding storeys, it has blind semicircular arched windows and is topped by a dome.

Bas relief of foliage at the right side of the church ruins

Inside, one can still see the arched support of the choir loft.

The author underneath the arch support of the choir loft.

San Pablo de Cabigan Church Ruins: San Pablo, Isabela.  Feast of St. Paul the Apostle: January 15.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com.

How to Get There: San Pablo is located 464.01 kms. from Manila and 57 kms. north of the City of Ilagan.

Church of St. Matthias (Tumauini, Isabela)

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Church of St. Matthias

The notable, Roman Catholic Church of St. Matthias (Spanish: Iglesia Parroquial de San Matías), within the jurisdiction of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan, is the best-preserved church complex in Isabela.  Known for its brick, Baroque-style architecture, it is considered to be the best and most artistic brick structure in the country.

The church complex

Tumauini became a separate parish independent from Cabagan  in 1751. Dedicated to Saint Matthias, it was first built in nipa and other light materials by Dominican Fr. Francisco Nunez in 1707.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (NHI) in 1989

In 1733, it was rebuilt by Dominican Fr. Domingo Forto who hired artisans from as far south as Pampanga. It was continued in 1788 by Fr. Antonio Herrera and was completed in 1805.

The celebrated circular bell tower

During the Second World War, the church was damaged by American bombing but a faithful reconstruction program followed, with undamaged parts of the church building retained.

Buttresses supporting the side of the church

On February 24, 1989, it was made a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines. The church is now listed by the National Museum of the Philippines as a National Cultural Treasure.

A buttress with steps integrated into it for servicing the roof

Since 2006, together with the churches of Patrocinio de María in Boljoon, Cebu; La Inmaculada Concepción in Guiuan, Samar; San Pedro Ápostol in Loboc, Bohol and San Isidro Labrador in Lazi, Siquijor, the Tumauini Church has been considered for the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List under the collective group of Baroque Churches of the Philippines (Extension).

Paired Corinthian columns at the facade

This foremost example of ecclesiastical ultra-Baroque architecture in the country is unique for its extensive use of different types of baked red clay brick both for its delicate wall finishing and ornamentation.

Finials crowning the wavy silhouette of the facade

Since stones of good quality couldn’t be found in the area, bricks were used instead and artisans from Pampanga were hired to craft the wooden moldings for the clay inset of the bricks for the façade. Each brick was numbered in the design.

Niche with a statue of a headless saint

Its architecture bears Chinese influence. The façade,  flanked by two pseudo-Corinthian columns and niches (one located above the entrance and the two remaining larger niches on each side of the columns), has a circular pediment that is unique relative to all other churches built during the Spanish Era.

A rather unusual “3” molding

The church’s ornately designed clay bricks were individually designed, prepared, fired, customized to fit the wall, and numbered and dated for the correct sequence respectively for construction purposes.

Bas relief of flowers

They come to life in concentric circles with spiral curves on the finials crowning the wavy silhouette of the facade whose centerpiece is a rose window on the circular pediment which is flanked by pinnacled steps terminating into a coil.

Bas relief of St. Andrew

Serpentine reliefs and many finely molded details: flowers, foliage, wheels, ovules, hearts, sunbursts, squares and circles, oblongs and rectangles, curlicues; three long garlands, vegetal forms, clam shells, also adorn the facade.

Bas relief of a sunburst

Bas relief of a wheel

Statued niches of saints (one headless) also flank the semicircular, richly-molded arched doorway.   

Bas relief of a headless cherub

There are also eight pilasters; six mini reliefs of saints and cherubim (one cherub defaced). At the end walls is a rather unusual “3” molding.

Bas relief of flowers

The adjoining unique, four-storey, unique cylindrical bell tower, built in 1805, is the only known Spanish colonial era cylindrical tower in the country.

Bas relief of garlands decorating the perimeter of the circular tower

The tiered belfry notably resembles a wedding cake.  Its bell has bullet holes but was never recast.

The church interior

Its interior has no retablo (altar backpiece), just a simple altar under an ornate, white dome and the Crucified Lord against the brick wall.

The retablo-less main altar

Also inside are 24 symmetrically arranged, Neo-Corinthian faux columns and ten arched windows with white-green-yellow stained-glass panes adorned with yellow and blue clam shells and red crosses.

Symmetrically arranged Neo-Corinthian faux columns

The ruins of the church’s convento (clergy house), located on the gospel side of the church, has a vaulted ceiling that still has impressions of the mats used in construction as forms to mold wet plaster.

The front garden has a low, undulating brick wall.

Part of the undulating, low brick wall

Church of St. Matthias: National Highway, Brgy. Annafunan, Tumauini 3325, Isabela.  Mobile number: (0927) 791-5490.  Feast of St. Mathias: May 14.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com.

How to Get There: Tumauini is located 451.1 kms. (a 9-hour drive) from Manila and 38.6 kms. (a 1-hour drive) northwest of Ilagan  City.

Benito Soliven View Deck and Flower Park (Isabela)

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Benito Soliven View Deck and Flower Park

After breakfast at The Sophia Hotel, our media group again boarded our provincial government-supplied airconditioned bus for our Discover Isabela Tour which would take us to two of the province’s Heritage Churches as well as an upcoming tourism leisure site.  Our tour first brought us to the town of Benito Soliven, just a 33-km. (1-hour) drive away via the Pan-Philippine Highway.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: The Sophia Hotel“

The partial medicine wheel garden

Our destination here was the Benito Soliven View Deck and Flower Park, a recreation area ideal for a mini-stroll or pictorial session. The focal point of the Flower Park was its partial medicine wheel garden. More than just a shape, in Native American folklore, medicine gardens serve as ceremonial sites, perhaps for healing ceremonies as medicine wheels build on the radiating energy of circles.

A 2-pax wickerwork basket

Gravel walkways, lined with shrubs, serve as its spokes.  At the moment, its center was dominated by a huge Christmas tree, a carryover from the holidays, and a circular concrete bench. Within the vicinity of the garden is a wishing well and a huge wicker basket where couples can sit and do Instagrammable selfies.  On their own, flower farms are sought after just for photos on social media.

A rustic view of the distant mountains, rice fields and the Pinakawan River

Another feature of the site is its awesome rustic view of mountains, rice fields and the Pinakawan River.  This scenery is best seen from a concrete view deck reached by a steel stairway.  At ground level, there’s a wickerwork ring chair and wooden platform with wooden benches and a heart-shaped wickerwork backdrop (another great backdrop for your Instagram feed). Truly, there’s something romantic about the idea of being in the middle of a flower garden and an awesome view.

An Instagram worthy site….

During our visit, we were treated to a merienda of turon, bananacue and buco juice, a fitting prelude to what’s next in store for us – the Sky Cycle (Zip Bike), a “rush” (due to the rush of emotions) which takes biking to another level.

The media group at the concrete view deck. The author is fourth from right

This would be my second try at this adrenaline-filled activity, the first being at the Chocolate Hills Adventure Park (CHAPS) in Bohol. The bicycle, minus the rubber tires, is securely joined to the zip line so there’s no problem balancing. All we had to do was pedal and feel the ride.

Check out “Chocolate Hills Adventure Park”

Suiting up for the Sky Cycle

After all suiting up with helmet and harness, Ms. Analiza “Azi” Andaya (outoftownblog) and Ms. Riza Divina (Abante) took first crack at it, followed by me and Ms. Marita “Ika” Roxas-Ysmael (YMV & Associates) and, finally, by Mr. Vince Samson (Asian Journal) and Mr. Neilsen Elesis (Woman’s Journal).

Riza and Ana trying out the Sky Cycle

It took some time to for me to feel at ease with the bike (it needed adjustment for my height) but, once adjusted on the return, I got the feel for it and the ride became more enjoyable and exciting.

The author and and exultant Ika (this is her first try on a bike zip) on the return trip (photo: Boy Santos of Philippine Star)

The piece de resistance of our visit, the Sky Cycle was truly an exciting, one-of-a-kind experience.

Benito Soliven View Deck and Flower Park: District I, Benito Soliven 3331, Isabela.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com.

How to Get There: Benito Soliven is located 426.8 kms. (an 8-hour drive) from Manila and 39 kms. (via Junction Naguilian – San Mariano – Palanan Rd. and Pan-Philippine Highway) from the City of Ilagan.