Category Archives: Spanish-Era Structures

Old Spanish-Era Watchtower (Luna, La Union)

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Spanish-Era Watchtower (Baluarte) (2)

After our short stopover at the Luna town proper (where we had a merienda of bibingka and visited the Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria), we proceeded, southwest of the town, to the town’s coastline where we visited the town’s century-old Spanish-era watchtower, locally called Baluarte. During World War II, the tower served as the communication tower post for a temporary airfield for the USAFIPNL forces. In the past, this defense post was in fair condition, circular in shape and made of brick but the sea had already undermined its base causing half of it to break off and lean at a dangerous 20-degree angle toward the sea.

Spanish-Era Watchtower (Baluarte) (4)

Located about 700 m. northwest of the Municipal Hall, the tower used to stand at a robust 5.6 m. high with an external diameter of 11 m. and an internal diameter of 5.5 m., with 2.5 m. thick walls made up of adobe, coral blocks and layered, stretched bricks fused together with mortar of lime and egg whites.  This massive circular tower sat about 34 m. from the shoreline during low tide.

Spanish-Era Watchtower (Baluarte) (5)

The structure would have collapsed more than 10 years ago but, in 2007, the provincial engineering office propped it up with piles (concrete columns used in building bridges) and covered its perimeter with gabion mattress. The provincial agriculture office also prohibited the picking of stones 50 meters around the Baluarte to check erosion. However, all that were done were “band-aid solutions.”

Spanish-Era Watchtower (Baluarte) (6)

To really strengthen the foundation of the Baluarte, it should be first declared a National Historical Landmark before funds can be allocated for its construction and preservation. Two years ago, the Luna Municipal Council passed Resolution 68-2013, requesting the National Historical Commission to declare the watchtower as a National Historical Landmark to enable government agencies to fund the preservation project.  They also passed Resolution 69-2013, asking the National Museum to also declare it a National Cultural Treasure.

Spanish-Era Watchtower (Baluarte) (7)

On November 2014, this tower, together with the other watchtowers of the province (Bacnotan, Balaoan and San Juan towns and Carlatan in San Fernando City) were declared as National Cultural Treasures by the National Museum (NM).

Spanish-Era Watchtower (Baluarte) (8)

However, this tower was further damaged when Typhoon “Lando” (international name “Koppu”) struck northern Luzon on October 20, 2015. The half that was already breaking off toward the sea finally collapsed as the old shoring failed when the entire beach underneath was swept away by big waves and strong winds. Right after the typhoon, the National Museum sent a team for a preliminary ocular inspection and to coordinate with the local government to secure the fallen pieces of the brick structure.

Spanish-Era Watchtower (Baluarte) (9)

Now that the tower is a declared National Cultural Treasure, it is my hope that funds will finally be made available for its repair and preservation.  If nothing is done, another big storm could finally destroy the Baluarte for good as storm surges can reach up to 10 m., towering over the structure that was already weakened, in the past, by the elements.

Sunset over Darigayos Point

Sunset over Darigayos Point

Old Spanish-era watchtower: Darigayos Point, Brgy. Victoria, Luna, La Union.

How to Get There: Luna is located 267.48 kms.  from Manila and 34.8 kms. north of the City of San Fernando.  Air conditioned buses from Dominion Bus Lines, Philippine Rabbit, Partas, Fariñas, Maria de Leon, and Viron depart from terminals in Manila that is bound for Ilocos. Destinations can either be La Union, Narvacan, Vigan, Laoag or Abra. Just tell the bus attendant that you are going to Luna.

Dampol Bridge (Dupax del Sur, Nueva Vizcaya)

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The nearly two century old, single arch Dampol Bridge

The nearly two century old, single arch Dampol Bridge

While my media colleague  Alexis Romero was busy interviewing Fr. Ferdinand E. Lopez at the Church of St. Vincent, I walked a short distance to Dampol Bridge which was said to have been built at the same time the church was being built.  Most tourists and some locals pass by it and don’t know that they are stepping upon or driving on one of Dupax del Sur’s historical treasures.

Approach to Dampol Bridge

Approach to Dampol Bridge

This nearly two century old, single arch unreinforced bridge that spans the Abanatan Creek which divides Brgy. Dopaj and Brgy. Dumang, was built in 1818 by the Isinai and other indigenous groups living in the area.  Its red-colored bricks were made from an old adobe workshop near the church, when Spanish Dominican friar Fr. Francisco Rocamora was vicar.

Abanatan Creek

Abanatan Creek

During a road construction and widening project undertaken by the DPWH -Nueva Vizcaya 2nd District Engineering Office in 2014 (who regarded the bridge as part of the National Highway), this important cultural and historical landmark was spared from demolition after an outcry from the Isinai community, but not after part of the protective brick wall had already been taken down in sections, exposing the inner filling to decomposition.

The damaged portion of the bridge

The damaged portion of the bridge

Today, only light vehicles (load limit: 5 tons) such as cars are allowed to cross the bridge, one at a time.  A suggestion to re-route traffic away from Dampol Bridge is now being considered.

Oslob Town Proper (Cebu)

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From Tumalog Falls, we again boarded our airconditioned van for the short trip to the town proper of Oslob.  Within its Municipal Heritage Park are a number of Spanish-era structures and at the center of it all is the town’s massive Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception (Nuestra Señora de la Inmaculada Conception).

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

The church was designed by Bishop Santos Gomez de Marañon (the same prelate who built the kiosk of Magellan’s Cross in Cebu City) to replace the destroyed church at Daanglungsod (Boloc-Boloc).  It cornerstone was laid by Fr. Julian Bermejo on May 4, 1830. Townspeople from neighboring Tañon (now Santander) and Ivisan (now Nueva Caceres, Oslob) helped in its construction. The church was finished in 18 years and blessed by Bishop Romualdo Ximeno in 1847.

The church's historical plaque

The church’s historical plaque

The church's modern interior

The church’s modern interior

The bell tower on the church’s left was built by Fr. Apolinar Alvarez in 1858 and Fr. Gregorio de Santiago Vela installed 11 bells at the fifth storey in 1894.  The bells were transferred to the fourth storey when the fifth was destroyed during a strong typhoon.  The bell tower was later repaired by Fr. Mauricio Alvarez (who also built the cemetery, municipal tribunal and the municipal church and made known the medicinal uses of the sulfuric waters of Mainit springs).

The still unrestored, roofless convent

The still unrestored, roofless convent

The convent on the right was started by Fr. Julian Bermejo. The church was finished and reinforced with solid buttresses from 1848 to 1850 by Fr. Juan Jose Aragones, Oslob’s first parish priest (1848–1854 and 1859–1861) and later Bishop of Nueva Segovia.  It was renovated by Fr. Constantino Batoctoy in 1977. The roof, made of tejas sourced out and baked locally at a place now known as Lulukhan, were replaced with corrugated iron sheets by Fr. Pablo Alaxa in 1932.  The church was totally burned by Cebuano guerillas in 1942 and, later on, the vault and dome fell.  In 1954, the wooden flooring of the church was replaced with baldoza tiles.

The now 4-storey bell tower

The now 4-storey bell tower

Fire of unknown origin gutted the complex on November 7, 1955 leaving only the masonry walls of both buildings.  It was restored, with the cooperation of the townspeople, by Fr. Benedicto Zapra and completed in 1980 by Fr. Constantino Batoctoy in time for the sesquicentennial celebration of the original church’s construction (1830 to 1980).  A 2.5-hour (1:40-4 AM) fire again hit the church and adjacent convent on March 26, 2008 but spared the icon of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, which is inside a glass case, and the 73 other icons near the door to the bell tower.  The church was complete restored on December 10, 2010.

The church gate

The church gate

The church is 64 m. long, 15 m. wide, 9 m. high and has a simple, sober but attractive facade with a semicircular arched main entrance, rectangular widows, half-embedded pilasters and a triangular pediment.  The 4-storey, 30 m. high and octagonal bell tower has rectangular and semicircular arched windows alternating with blind ones. The dome is typically Neo-Classic.

A garita (guardhouse)

A garita (guardhouse)

In front of the church is a prayer room, also known as a waiting chapel, built in 1847.  It was used as an isolation chamber for leprosy-afflicted patients. It has a pediment decorated with a relief of a human skeleton.

Calle de Aragones

Calle de Aragones

Calle de Aragones historical plaque

Calle de Aragones historical plaque

On the left side of the church is Calle de Aragones, the town’s oldest street, built in 1879.  It was named after Fr. Juan Jose Aragones.  At the end of the street, at the intersection of Calle Aeternidad, is the unique, unfinished cuartel.

The unfinished coral stone cuartel

The unfinished coral stone cuartel

The cuartel's double row of arches

The cuartel’s double row of arches

The construction of this barracks for the Guardia Civil was started by el gran maestro Don Marcos Sabandal but was halted with the arrival of the Americans in 1899.  The coral stones used in its construction of its 19 cm. thick walls came from the remnants of the floor of the collapsed church bell tower.  Its façade features a double row of arches.

The interior of the cuartel

The interior of the cuartel

Historical plaque of cuartel

Historical plaque of cuartel

The thick coral stone walls and gates surrounding the church complex, called paril, are topped by a series of inverted, cone-shaped stones.  They were built in 1875 as a defense against raiding Muslim pirates.

The church walls and gates

The church walls and gates

Historical plaque of church walls and gates

Historical plaque of church walls and gates

Along Calle Eternidad, parallel to the coast, is a baluarte (a watchtower locally called lantawan), one of 7 built by the warrior-priest Fr. Julian Bermejo, parish priest of Boljo-on.  Hexagonal in plan and occupying an area of 48 sq. m., it has massive 7 m. high crenellated walls.  Only about a half of the watchtower remains. In 1813, this baluarte, as well as the other watchtowers, helped Fr. Bermejo and the townspeople of Oslob repel Moro slave raiders led by Sultan Goranding during a naval battle near the waters off Sumilon Island. Sultan Goranding was captured during the battle.

Baluarte (watchtower)

Baluarte (watchtower)

Historical plaque of baluarte

Historical plaque of baluarte

How to Get There: Oslob is located 117 kms. (a 3-hr. drive) south of Cebu City.

Pamilacan Island (Baclayon, Bohol)

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Pamilacan Island

Pamilacan Island

It was now Day 2 of our 3-day media familiarization tour of Bohol.  After a very early breakfast at Panglao Bluewater Resort, we were slated to do some dolphin watching off Pamilacan Island, followed by lunch at Balicasag Island.  The tide was still low and our large motorized outrigger boat was anchored some distance off.  To get on board her, we took turns riding a tandem kayak until all were on board.  The sun was already up in the sky when we got underway.

On our way

On our way

The island’s name was derived from the word meaning “nesting place of manta rays.”  However, it has also been interpreted to to have been derived from the word pamilac, a harpoon (large hooked implement) used to capture manta rays, dolphins, whale sharks and Bryde’s whales. Under the jurisdiction of the municipality of Baclayon, it is situated 14 kms. (8.7 mi) south of the Bohol mainland.

Our spotter scanning the horizon for dolphins or whales

Our spotter scanning the horizon for dolphins or whales

The waters around the island are home to at least 11 species of dolphins and whales, including the playful Spinner Dolphins, Bryde’s whales and the gigantic Sperm Whale. Blue Whales are sometimes seen in the early months of the year. The whale watching season begins in March until the onset of the rainy season in June or July.

Soon to make landfall

Soon to make landfall

The 15 to 20 m. long boat we rode on was possibly a former canter, a boat formerly used for whale hunting.  These have been refitted with seats and roofing for a comfortable ride for 7 to 10 passengers who want to go whale or dolphin watching.  A skilled, elderly spotter, who is also an excellent guide, soon took his place at our boat’s bow, scanning the horizon for any whales or dolphins. Resident dolphins and small whales can be found all year round but sightings are dependent on weather and sea conditions.  Just like my first try in 2003, we were unlucky to find any of them.

The island's immaculately white sand beach

Footprints along the island’s immaculately white sand beach

We made landfall at the island’s beautiful white sand beach located on its northwest side.  Upon landing, we were welcomed by members of the island’s small and closely knit fishing community which has around 200 families living in 3 sitios – one facing Baclayon, another amid an island and a third on the southern coast.  Their main livelihoods now concentrate on dolphin and whale watching tours and subsistence fishing. In the past, it also included whale, dolphin and manta ray hunting. However, with the strict enforcement of marine life preservation laws in the country, this practice was stopped. Their houses, though, are still adorned with jaws and bones of these marine mammals.

The island's barangay

The island’s barangay

When we arrived, a table (with red tablecloth) and chairs were set up under a shady palm tree, beside some picnic sheds.  A merienda of sliced camote (sweet potatoes), either steamed, caramelized or fried, plus rice cakes and corn coffee were prepared for us. The latter looked and tasted like your good old caffeinated coffee but is said to be healthier.

A merienda of camote, rice cake and corn coffee

A merienda of camote, rice cake and corn coffee

After this filling repast, I together with Czarina, Euden, Joy, Kathleen and Lara went on a snorkeling tour on 3 small boats, each with a local boatman who paddled for us.  Czarina joined me on one boat.  The island’s wide flat reef, now a marine sanctuary, offers good snorkelling and diving (it has some great dive sites such as Dakit-Dakit).

Dining al fresco along the beach

Dining al fresco along the beach

After some great snorkeling over coral gardens, we returned to shore early as Czarina wasn’t feeling good.  Back on dry land, I explored the nearby Spanish-era fort which, in the past, served as a watch station for pirates, intruders and other enemies. Triangular in shape and probably constructed in the 19th century, it was made with rubble while cut coral blocks lined its portal and windows. The three corners of the structure were supported by round buttresses.

The triangular, Spanish-era fort

The triangular, Spanish-era fort

Another view of the fort

Another view of the fort

Inside are embedded trusses and a triangular pillar in the middle, indication that the fort may have had a second floor, probably made of wood. A large hardwood cross, with an 18oos date carved on it, once stood near the fort but is now housed in a nearby modern chapel. The fort was said to have formed a network with the towns of Baclayon, Loay and Tagbilaran.

View of the fort from another angle

View of the fort from another angle

The ladies were already back from their snorkeling trip when I returned.  Soon enough, we were back on board our boat for the second half of our island hopping expedition – Balicasag Island.  The waters were already choppy when we left and our boat had to travel slowly as the waves kept pounding the boat.  Soon a number of us (including me), especially the already ill Czarina, were already feeling seasick and, since our destination was still a long way off and it was already way past noontime, it was decided to just return to our resort.  Anyway, I have been to Balicasag Island 11 years ago, going around it on foot and snorkeling its coral gardens.  However, I felt sorry for those who haven’t been there. Oh well, you can’t win them all.

The triangular pillar in the middle of the fort

The triangular pillar in the middle of the fort

How to Get There: Pamilacan Island is located about 20 kms. southeast of Tagbilaran City, 23 kms. east of Balicasag Island and 11 kms. (a 45-min. pumpboat ride) offshore from the town. Pumpboats can be hired at Baclayon port.

Malagonlong Bridge (Tayabas City, Quezon)

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Leaving the Tayabas City proper, Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I continued on our way to Lucban.  About 2.4 kms. outside the city, we made a stopover at the now unused, Spanish-era Malagonlong Bridge across the Dumaca-a River.  This wasn’t the first time I’ve seen this bridge, having seen it on our way to Mauban to attend the Maubanog Festival 3 years ago.

Malagonlong Bridge

Malagonlong Bridge

However, this would the first time I would actually explore it, crossing the bridge’s 445 ft. (136 m.) length to the other end. The first time, I just took pictures of it from the modern, girder-type concrete bridge parallel to it. On August 12, 2011, it was declared as a National Cultural Treasure under the Historic Bridges of Tayabas. On its eastern side is the plaque installed by the National Historical Institute.

The plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (NHI)

The plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (NHI)

An older plaque installed at one of the bridge's balconies

An older plaque installed at one of the bridge’s balconies

The oldest in the province, the charming, ivy-covered Malagonlong Bridge (Puente del Malagonlong) is one of the few remaining and the longest Spanish colonial, arch-type bridge in the country. One of 11 Spanish-era bridges within Tayabas City, it connects Brgy. Mateuna with Brgy. Lakawon.

Dumaca-a River

Dumaca-a River

Built with about 100,000 adobe blocks, limestone and molasses, it was started, during the term of gobernadorcillo Don Joaquin Ortega’s term, by Spanish Franciscan parish priest Fr. Antonio Mateus in 1840 and completed 10 years later during the term of gobernadorcillo Don Julian S. Francisco. 

The bridge's 6 m. wide carriageway

The bridge’s 6 m. wide carriageway

The bridge has five spans, the first arch with a height and width of 36 ft (11 m); the second at 33 ft (10 m); the fourth at 30 ft (9.1 m) and the fifth at 18 ft (5.5 m). It has a width of about 20 ft (6 m.) and six small balconies.

The author posing at one of the bridge's balconies

The author posing at one of the bridge’s balconies

How to Get There: Tayabas City is located 147.28 kms. from Manila and 10.62 kms. from Lucena City. Malagonlong Bridge is a 15-20 min. tricycle ride from the city center.

Taytay Boni (Miag-ao, Iloilo)

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On your way to Iloilo International Airport, we again passed the town of Miag-ao.  Here, we made a short stopover at Taytay Boni, a Spanish-era bridge that once passed through a creek and connected Miag-ao with Guimbal, before the construction of the national highway.

Taytay Boni

Taytay Boni

Now enclosed within a small park, this stone bridge’s name was derived from the Ilonggo term taytay  (meaning “ bridge”) while “Boni” is the name of  its construction foreman and cantero-mayor (major carpenter) Bonifacio Neular.

DSC_0229

It was built in 1854 through forced labor, during the term of gobernadorcillo Miguel Navales. The large, yellow-colored coral stone slabs (tablea or tabreha) used for its construction were transported from Igbaras, located 5 to 6 kms. from the site, by means of karosas, sleds pulled by carabaos. Lime was used to hold the stone slabs together.

DSC_0230

The bridge was still passable before and after the World War II but was partly damaged during the January 25, 1948 Lady Caycay (magnitude 8.2) earthquake. The bridge now rests on dry land, a result of the ground opening up during the earthquake and sucking in large amounts of water. The bridge is located at Crossing Kamatis, about a kilometer from the town proper, between Brgys. Kirayan Sur and Igtuba.

How To Get There: Miagao is located 40.04 kms. from Iloilo City, 12.2 kms. from San Joaquin and 8 kms. from Guimbal.

The Spanish-Era Structures of Patnongon (Antique)

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From the Gen. Leandro Fullon National Shrine in Hamtic Poblacion, we moved on, 32 kms. away, past the capital town of San Jose de Buenavista and Belison, to the town of Patnongon.  Along the National Highway are the ruins of the parish of St. Augustine, once considered the best church in the province.

St. Augustine Academy of Patnongon

St. Augustine Academy of Patnongon

The main entrance

The main entrance

Started in 1860 by Fr. Manuel Asensio, it was finished in 1895 by Fr. Eustaquio Heria. In 1896, Fr. Joaquin Fernandez renovated the church by adding a patio.

NHI Plaque

NHI Plaque

Statue niche

Statue niche

The old bell tower

The old bell tower

Damaged during the Philippine Revolution, it was repaired from 1896 to 1899 and, in 1906, it was transferred to the Mill Hill Fathers of England.  Destroyed during World War II, it was converted to the St. Augustine Academy of Patnongon in 1962.

Ruins of Spanish-era municipal hall

Ruins of Spanish-era municipal hall

Nearby are the ruins of the town’s former 2 storey, Spanish-era municipal building.  This 15 m. by 21 m., roofless structure is now fenced off, its gray walls slowly deteriorating due to the elements, local government neglect and indifference, and the strangling presence of a balete tree.

A balete tree slowly strangling the walls

A balete tree slowly strangling the walls

An interior wall and arch

An interior wall and arch

I was saddened by the sight of this graphic memorial to our Spanish past being left to rot.  In my opinion, it could still be restored and put to good use, either as a museum or a government office.  All it takes is political will aside from local government or private sector funding.

How To Get There: Patnongon is located 25 kms. from San Jose de Buenavista, 9.5 kms. from Belison, 17.3 from Bugasong and 122 kms. from Iloilo City (Iloilo).

San Joaquin Cemetery (Iloilo)

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From Miag-ao, we were next driven 12.5 kms. to the adjoining town of San Joaquin.  Along the National Highway, we made another short stopover at the town’s Spanish-era cemetery (Campo Santo, translated as “holy field) where we visited its iconic mortuary chapel (capilla), the grandest and best preserved in the whole of Iloilo.

The iconic mortuary chapel of Campo Santo

The iconic mortuary chapel of Campo Santo

Nestled on elevated ground a kilometer from the poblacion, it was built in 1892 with coral rock and baked brick by Augustinian Fr. Mariano Vamba, the last Spanish parish priest of the town.

Detail of rose window and brick and coralstone facade

Detail of rose window and brick and coralstone facade

It has a vaulted hexagonal chapel decorated with Classical motifs; with tufa and plaster walls; a red, pointed dome and lateral rose windows.  To reach this chapel and the cemetery compound, we had to climb a 20-step staircase flanked by twin-tiered stone balustrades.

The statue niche with Pieta replica

The statue niche with Pieta replica

Burial niches inside chapel

Burial niches inside chapel

Inside, facing the chapel entrance, is a statue niche with a small yet beautifully made sculpture replica of Michaelangelo’s renowned Pieta. Below it is the burial niche of Pedro Sarag y Saragena (September 8, 1855-October 15, 1923).  Flanking both are 2 sets of 4 burial niches topped by a cross and flanked a skull and cross bones design.

The Baroque-style gate

The Baroque-style gate

Its Baroque-style gate, with its rich stone bas relief of carved stylized flowers and leaves, has a life-size statue of Jesus Christ, with his outstretched arms, on top of its triangular pediment.  It is flanked, on each side, with two columns with angelic figures on top.  The semicircular arch entrance, adorned by egg-shaped moldings, is topped by the sculpted head of a cherub between two skull and cross bones designs representing death.

Father and son at the stairway

Father and son at the stairway

How To Get There: San Joaquin is located 53.5 kms. from Iloilo City and 12.2 kms. from Miag-ao.

Church of Our Lady of the Gate (Daraga, Albay)

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From the Cagsawa Ruins, we next proceeded to Daraga town proper then drove up Sta. Maria Hill to the town’s Church of Our Lady of the Gate (Nuestra Senora de la Porteria).  The church compound has an awesome view of the sea and majestic Mayon Volcano.

Church of Our Lady of the Gate

This church, built in 1773 by Franciscan monks, has an ornately carved Baroque (others say it is a mixture of Mexican Baroque and Renaissance Gothic) facade divided into 3 segments by 4 tall, twisted columns with medallions, bearing images of the Four Evangelists, at each column’s center.  The church also has a semicircular arched main entrance topped by floral decorations and is covered with an image of Our Lady of the Gate, statuary, alcoves, religious seals, the coat-of-arms of the Franciscan Order, and niches on the walls and pedimentcontaining statues of Franciscan saints articulately carved on volcanic rock.  

The facade’s pantheon of saints
The right side of the church

Because its facade was made with volcanic rock, the church originally had a black facade as depicted on old photos.  However, during my visit, its much-admired Old World look was gone as it was painted, during restoration work (done in close coordination with and approval of the National Museum, National Historical Institute and National Commission  on Culture and Arts) in 2008, with a white lime coating (containing chemical ingredients that turned it white) which, according to its conservationists, would protect the facade from exposure to the elements and from further deterioration.  This intervention, also done in historical landmarks in other countries, was deemed acceptable as it does not adversely affect its cultural significance.  

Twisted column detail
The NHI plaque

The octagonal bell tower (or belfry), on the church’s right, carries images of the 12 Apostles engraved on the sides of the angles.  As per my visit, it still retains its volcanic black color as well as the unwanted foliage protruding from its volcanic stone facade.  On the church’s left is the unremarkable convent.  Compared to the church’s exquisite face, the church’s white interior is bland and simply adorned, a  result of what historians refer to as “unregulated reconstructions and modifications.” However, it still houses priceless old santos (statues of saints).  

The unpainted octagonal belfry

During the Philippine-American War, the church was used as headquarters by the U.S. Cavalry and, during World War II, as headquarters by the Japanese.  Damaged during the liberation in 1945, the church was repaired from 1971 to 1973.  On October 29, 2007, this church was declared by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure (specifically cited were the eastern and western facade, the bell tower and the baptistery), the second in Albay after the Church of St. John the Baptist in Tabaco City  and, one year later, on October 16, 2008, it was likewise declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute (NHI).

The bland interior

Church of Our Lady of the Gate: Sta. Maria Hill, Brgy. San Roque, Daraga, Albay.  Tel: (052) 483-4416.  E-mail: daragaparish@gmail.com.  

Cagsawa Ruins (Daraga, Albay)

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From Lignon Hill Nature Park, we next drove down to the nearby town of Daraga.  About 3.5 kms. northwest of the town, 500 m. north of the highway, we entered the Cagsawa Ruins, a place I first visited 7 years ago during a stopover on our way to Naga City (Camarines Sur).  Much has happened since my first visit.  In 2006, mud flows from Mayon Volcano, triggered by typhoon Reming (international name: Durian) buried 8 villages in the town (killing at least 1,266 people) and we passed many ruined and buried homes.

The Cagsawa Ruins

Still, the Cagsawa Ruins, the most visited and photographed site in all of Albay, remains as it seemed during my last visit, the big difference being my classic, postcard view of Mt. Mayon’s perfect cone wasn’t obstructed by swirling afternoon clouds. The blackened church bell tower (or belfry), as well as the broken down walls of the priest’s house and municipal building (all destroyed during the February 1, 1814 eruption that killed 1,200 townspeople), have still withstood the test of time and the elements.  

Other ruins at the site

Something I never noticed before was a mini-resort with rental cottages  and 2 modest-size swimming pools (adult and kiddie) to the right of the ruins. This begs the questions “Why build a resort at  the very site where thousands have died while escaping the wrath of the volcano?”  “Did they dig up skeletons when they dug the pools?” The resort owner who built it was somehow unmindful of the sacredness of the place.

The swimming pool beside the ruins.  “What were they thinking?”

Right outside the ruins were a chain of souvenir shops selling a colorful assortment of locally produced products such as bags and baskets; Tiwi ceramic ware;  furniture (wicker chairs, sala and dining sets, etc.); Tabaco cutlery items (bolos, knives, grass cutters, etc.), arts and crafts made from Mayon’s ashes, hardwood, abaca and shells; exotic flowers and orchids; T-shirts with different designs; and native food delicacies such as kuyog, pili nut confections (salted, sugar-coated, etc.), canned pinangat, and sweet pineapple wine. Restaurants on the site also offer bicol express (a spicy shrimp dish with coconut cream), inasal na sira (grilled fish) among other dishes. 

Cagsawa Ruins: Brgy. Busay, Daraga. Admssion: PhP10. Parking fees: trucks and buses (PhP20); cars (PhP15) and motorcycles and tricycles (PhP5).