Takakkaw Falls (Field, British Columbia)

Takakkaw Falls seen from the parking lot

From Emerald Lake, it was a 33-km. (40-min. drive) to the impressive, horsetail type (a water feature where the descending water keeps close contact with the bedrock most of the way down, looking like a horse’s tail) Takakkaw Falls which features a picnic area, basic campsites on a first-come, first-served basis, and washrooms near the parking lot. 

Check out “Emerald Lake”

Beginning our hike….

Upon arrival at the parking area and opening our car door, we can already hear the roar of the falls half a mile away. From the picnic area, it was a short, easy 750 m. hike to the base of the falls, crossing a pedestrian footbridge, over the milky, fast-flowing glacial runoff of the Yoho River, to get there.

The pedestrian footbridge
Crossing the bridge

The falls created a strong, heavy and chilly mist that dropped the local air temperature significantly and quickly by 10 to 20 degrees near the base compared to the parking area. Even after donning our jackets, bonnets and gloves, we still felt the biting cold. 

The milky-white Yoho River seen from the bridge
Another view of the Yoho River

The refreshing spray also got us wet (a raincoat or poncho would have been better) and the rocks and gravel near the water got very damp and slick. Occasionally, when the sunlight hit the fine mist at just the right angle (splitting the white light into a bright arc of colors), a rainbow would appear.

Nearing our destination…..

Takakkaw Falls (also spelled Takkakaw) is fed by the meltwater of the Daly Glacier, which is part of the Waputik Icefield, which keeps the volume of the falls up during the warm summer months.  It is a tourist attraction, particularly in late spring after the heavy snow melts, when the falls are at peak condition.

Takakkaw Falls with a rainbow beside it

The total vertical height of Takakkaw Falls has been placed, by various sources, at between 302 m. (991 ft.) and 373 m. (1,224 ft.). In 1985, a survey found that the main drop of the falls is 254 m. (833 ft) high, still making it one of the tallest waterfalls in Canada and easily one of the most dramatic. However, it is often mislabeled as the second tallest waterfall  in Canada (the World Waterfall Database lists about 55 higher waterfalls in Canada).

Kyle, the author, Grace and Jandy with the falls in the background

The fall’s name means “it is magnificent” in the Cree language and the name is apt. However, despite the name’s Cree origin, the indigenous Cree people didn’t give the falls this name nor did they historically inhabit this area. Rather, its name was suggested by Sir William Cornelius Van Horne, the head of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and officially adopted in 1904. However, Takakkaw Falls, as well as Yoho National Park, is located on the traditional and unceded territory of the Secwepemc (sah-wep-em) Nation who lived there since time immemorial.

Additional alpine scenery…..

The falls serves as the main trailhead for several scenic alpine hikes, including the demanding but breathtaking Iceline Trail. If you followed the trails down the river below the waterfall, you would find a treasure trove of smaller falls with names as playful as their alpine settings.

Takakkaw Falls: Yoho National Park, Field, British Columbia.  Coordinates: 51°29′59″N 116°28′22″W. The best time to visit the falls is mid-to-late summer (July and August) when peak glacial melt creates a powerful, thundering cascade.

How to Get There: Takakkaw Falls is a 37-km. (30-min.) drive west of Lake Louise and 93 kms. from Banff. It is accessible via the steep, seasonal Yoho Valley Road (typically open mid-June to mid-October). The Yoho Valley Road branches off the Trans-Canada Highway near the village of Field, British Columbia. Due to steep switchbacks and tight curves, this 14 km road is closed to all vehicles over 7.6 m. (25 ft.).

Emerald Lake (Field, British Columbia)

From The Caves National Historic Site of Canada, we headed 98 kms. (a 1.25-hr. drive) northwest, from Banff, Alberta, onto the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1), to reenter British Columbia at the town of Field, then turned right onto Emerald Lake Road, to stop by Emerald Lake, a freshwater lake in Yoho National Park, one of the four contiguous national parks in Canada’s Rocky Mountains, along the boundary of British Columbia and Alberta Provinces. The lake is the largest of the 61 lakes and ponds located inside the park.

Check out “The Caves National Historic Site of Canada”

Emerald Lake

The first non-indigenous person to set sight on Emerald Lake was famed Canadian mountain guide Tom Wilson, who stumbled upon it by accident in 1882 when he was led lakeside while rounding up a string of his horses that had gone astray. He gave the lake its name because of its remarkable, vivid, turquoise green-colored waters due to glacial silt (rock flour), different rock type producing the powdered sediment that is suspended in the glacial water, reflecting the entrancing emerald green spectrum of sunlight rather than the blue spectrum seen in Moraine Lake, Hector Lake, Bow Lake and Peyto Lake in neighboring Banff National Park. Earlier that same year, Tom also discovered another lake which he had given the same name (which appeared briefly on the official map) but it was shortly renamed Lake Louise.

Check out “Lake Louise” “Peyto Lake” and “Lake Moraine”

This stunning glacial alpine lake, a scenic natural destination, is the most famous one of and the most admired locations in Yoho National Park.  The majestic mountains of the President Range, named after the President and Vice-President of the coast to coast Canadian Pacific Railway, add to the beautiful of this lake, as well.

Emerald Sports

The lake has an unmatched diversity of both activities and landscapes suited to the enthusiastic traveler. Canoeing  and walking are favorite activities here and, during the summer months, fishing is also quite popular. Canoe ($.75 for 1 hour, with a max of 3 people in the canoe) and rowboat rentals are available Emerald Sports (also known as Emerald Sports & Gifts), as are cross-country skis and snowshoes in the winter.

Canoeing at the lake

Swimming, though allowed and highly recommended for the experience, is not for the faint of heart as the water is cold due to it being fed by glaciers. The rustic Emerald Lake Lodge is a leisurely delight for those having lunch at Cilantro Café’s lakeside patio. The lodge also offers cabins overlooking the lake and mountains. Near the start of the trail loop are some picnic tables.

Emerald Lake Lodge

A 5.2-km. (3.2-mi.) flat loop, family-friendly trail circling the shoreline, taking about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete, is one of the least strenuous but most rewarding in the park. From the lake, you can view an incredible breadth of geological features including the world-famous Burgess Shale fossil beds, the Michael Glacier, and an avalanche slope carpeted by meadows, where moose often graze.  Other more advanced hiking trails go in different directions up into the mountains.

Burgess Shale plaque

The lake’s elevation of 1,200 m. (4,400 ft.) above sea level produces a unique selection of flora. Trees found here include western red cedar, western yew, western hemlock and western white pine.  At moist, shady enclaves, you can spot a variety of tiny, fragile wild orchids that survive only in finely balanced conditions. If you’re paying attention, you may be rewarded with a Yellow Lady Slipper, Spotted Orchid, or Calypso sighting.

As animals are drawn to this important water source, Emerald Lake is a fantastic place to see wildlife such as bald eagles, moose, and ospreys as well as waterfowl such as loons and mergansers. Grizzly bears and American black bears are fairly common. However, as many wild animals live in the area and are protected by park law, hunting is prohibited in the park. From November until late April or early May, the lake is frozen due to its 53-degree latitude and moderately high altitude.

Kyle frolicking by the lake

Emerald Lake: 1 Emerald Lake Rd., Field, Yoho National Park, British Columbia V0A 1G0. Coordinates: 51.444°N 116.531°W.

How to Get There: Emerald Lake is a 50-km. (30-mi.) drive to the west of Golden, a 2.5-hr. drive from Calgary, a 28-km. (35-min.) drive from Lake Louise and 10 kms. (a 15-min.) drive west of the small railway village of Field, in Yoho National Park, near the highway exit to Emerald Lake, which has a park-operated visitor center.  A two-lane paved road, about 9 kms (6 mi.) long, connects the Trans-Canada Highway with Emerald Lake. Parking fills up fast in the summer, so it is best to arrive early in the morning.

Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada (Banff, Alberta)

On our first whole day in Banff, we departed Douglas Fir Resorts & Chalets for the short 3.8-km. (10-min.) drive to The Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada, the first ever federally protected reserve in Canada and the birthplace of the country’s national park system (now, Canada has 37 national parks, 11 national park reserves, and 1004 national historic sites, 171 of which are administered by Parks Canada). As we arrived in July, well within between June 19 and September 7, 2026 (when Parks Canada waived all entry fees for visitors this summer), our entrance to the site was free.

Cave and Basin National Historical Site

A special place for Indigenous Peoples for over ten thousand years (and continues to be so to this day), with important and longstanding cultural significance, it is a gathering place for sharing stories about conservation and the connection between people and the land. Together with Banff National Park, it is part of the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy, the Îyârhe Nakoda of the Chiniki, Bearspaw, and Goodstoney First Nations; the Tsuut’ina First Nation; and the Métis Nation of Alberta.

The author, Kyle, Jandy and Grace inside The Cave

Here’s the historical timeline of the site:

  • In 1859, the first written recorded reference to hot springs here was made by James Hector of the Palliser Expedition.
  • In 1875, Joe Healey happened upon the Cave and Basin site long after Indigenous Peoples.
  • In 1883, Frank McCabe and brothers Tom and William McCardell, three Canadian Pacific Railway workers, using a felled tree, descended through the skylight entrance into the cave and the thermal springs.
  • In 1884, they constructed a small cabin nearby with the intention of commercializing the Cave and Basin site. In those days, hot springs were extremely valuable since hot water was not readily available from a tap like it is today. The CPR workers knew this would attract people and wanted to monetize it. Conflicting claims by other parties prompted intervention by the Canadian government headed by John A. Macdonald.
  • In 1885, an order-in-council reserved 26 sq. kms. (10 sq. mi.) around the Cave and Basin, the Banff Hot Springs Reserve. This was the genesis of Canada’s national parks system.
  • In 1886, the Canadian government held an inquiry into the various private claims to settle on compensation. That same year, an artificial tunnel was driven into the Cave and Basin to aid visitation. Its construction, according to articles in the Calgary Herald at the time, was contentious even in 1887.
  • In 1887, a bathhouse, the first structure on the site, was built.
  • In 1904, a new, naturally-heated pool was built as the existing one proved inadequate by 1902,
  • In 1912, bottled water from the Cave and Basin site was sold for its alleged curative powers.
  • In 1914, a stone bathhouse, designed by architect Walter S. Painter, was completed and opened to the public. Many of the early structures were built by detainees held at a World War I Ukrainian Canadian internment camp located nearby. The camp had a significant Ukrainian contingent.  It continued to operate until 1994.
  • In 1924, western mosquitofish were introduced into the hot springs in an attempt to control mosquitos. Tropical fish illegally introduced into the lower springs by local aquarium enthusiasts may have contributed to the extinction of the Banff longnose dace.
  • In 1975, the pools were closed.
  • On November 13, 1981, the Cave and Basin was formally declared a National Historic Site.
  • In 1985, on the anniversary of the order-in-council that established the original reserve around the Cave and Basin, Canada’s national parks system celebrated its centennial. That same year, the pools were also restored.
  • On August 20, 1985, Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh and consort of the Queen of Canada, unveiled the National Historic Site plaque.
  • In 1992, the pools were permanently closed. An interpretive center now uses the structures.
  • In 2000, the Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada listed the Banff Springs snail as an endangered species. Cave and Basin hot springs are also notable as the habitat for this snail.
  • In the summer of 2010, First Nations ceremonies and rituals began again in the Cave and Basin. (the Stoney people stopped coming to the Cave once Canadian Pacific Railway workers and settlers arrived in Banff).
  • On September 13, 2013, a permanent exhibit about Canada’s first national internment operations was opened at the Cave and Basin site (it was postponed three months by extensive flooding across southern Alberta), with an address by Jason Kenney, Minister of Employment and Social Development and Minister for Multiculturalism
Rotunda

Located within the Canadian Rocky Mountains, at the site of natural thermal mineral springs around which Canada’s first national park, Banff National Park, was established, it is the lowest component of nine sulphurous hot springs clustered, in three groups on the northeast flank of Sulphur Mountain, all located along the Sulphur Mountain Thrust Fault below Devonian limestones.

National Historic Site bronze plaque

The mineral spring issues from Sulphur Mountain where surface water penetrates the rock, absorbing minerals and being heated, by geothermal energy, from an estimated depth of 3 kms., to emerge in a cave and in a nearby basin before joining the Bow River drainage system below.

Main Building

At the entrance is a rotunda with interpretative panels commemorating the historic 1883 discovery by railway workers plus the official National Historic Site bronze plaque, unveiled by Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh on August 20, 1984, designating the thermal springs as the birthplace of Canada’s national parks system. 

Cave Story Hall

Near the entrance, at the south belvedere of the main building, is a narrow artificial tunnel leading to The Cave, a dimly-lit natural grotto and hot spring.  The tunnel ceiling was low in some places, so I had to mind my head. Before entering the cave, we took time to read the education displays and panels at Cave Story Hall to have a deeper understanding of the impact and significance of what we are seeing when we enter The Cave. 

The oil-based mural of Roland Rollinmud at Cave Story Hall

Near the entranceway and and tunnel of the hall is a remarkable oil-based mural, created by artist Roland Rollinmud (an elder from Stoney Nakoda Nation) and presented to Parks Canada in 2011, depicting Indigenous elders climbing down into the cave through the vent hole on rawhide ladders

Entrance to The Cave

This large hollowed-out cavern, with a steaming mineral pool below, is the only cave large enough to comfortably accommodate groups of people.  A small vent hole, in the rock ceiling, acts as a natural skylight, letting in enough sunlight to reflect off the pool and glisten on the smooth red and white flowstone layers running down the cave walls. You’ll also find stalactites and stalagmites, glacial till and a small trickling waterfall.

The tunnel leading to The Cave

A single elevated platform overlooks the water. There are stanchions in place to make it abundantly clear you enter along the righthand side of the hall in a line that terminates at the platform. After your time on the platform, you exit via the left-hand side of the tunnel. Relatively small, the cave has a single opening at the top that lets in natural light.

The Cave
The source of the spring

Immediately following its “discovery,” almost all of the delicate cave formations had been stripped out thinking it would improve the accessibility and aesthetic. Steam continually rose from the geothermally heated waters, and the earthy mineral scent of hydrogen sulfide filled the air, which kind of makes you second guess wanting to jump in. While the rotten egg smell never goes away, it does become tolerable. 

The original bathhouse now the Interpretive Centre and Museum

The former original 1887 bathhouse and restored 1916 interior public swimming pool complex for nearly 100 years, built with Classical Revival details, has now been renovated into an Interpretive Centre and Museum. Visitors here can enjoy interactive and interpretive media exhibits, detailing the 1883 discovery of the thermal hot springs by railway workers, and short films that takes you through a journey of Canada’s National Parks, and heritage of thermal waters.

The Basin

On top of the main building are the covered Belvedere Viewing Decks, overlooking the historic site, that offer panoramic views of the surrounding Canadian Rocky Mountains, marshland and mountain ridges.

View of the Canadian Rocky Mountains from the view deck

Outside the old pool complex, adjacent to The Cave, is The Basin (a pool of mineral water), the natural springs which flow into the Cave and Basin. It has been rewilded as close to its original state as possible and is now protected. A helpful ranger explained more about the animals that call these thermal pools home. They include tiny fish that have been introduced to these thermal waters (mosquito fish, jewelfish and sailfin molly), damselfly (Argia vivida) larvae that were in among the algae and, if you look closely, you’ll catch a glimpse of the endangered Banff Springs Snail (Physella johnsoni) in the pools.

Bryan, Cheska, Kyle and Jandy searching for Banff Spring Snails among the algae.

These tiny snails that are only found in the Upper Hot, Kidney, Middle, Cave, Basin and Vermilion Lake Springs in this area. All of the thermal pools, except the Banff Upper Hot Springs, a separate facility some 5 kms. (3 mi.) southeast of the Cave and Basin, have been closed off to humans in order to preserve this limited habitat.

8×8 ft. murals painted on outdoor display boxes
Murals displayed within the building

Located around the parking lot and historic bathing pavilion are large 8×8 ft. murals, painted on outdoor display boxes, which were placed during the spring-to-fall visitor season and can be viewed during regular site hours. These rotating large-scale outdoor mural projects were created by indigenous artists, in collaboration with the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies.

Cheska, Grace, Bryan and Kyle at the Discovery Boardwalk

Within the complex are the Discovery Boardwalks that lead you up the hill and through unique marshes created by the natural springs. Along the walk, you’ll encounter the original surface vent hole and, next to it, are vestiges of the log shanty, built between 1883 and 1885, known as ”the Hotel,” so they could stay close and protect it from other prospectors. 

The original vent hole

There are also few other smaller hot pools with bright blue-green waters and filled with pink bacteria and algae.

One of the smaller thermal pools

The boardwalks also feature educational signage, upper views of the Cave and Basin complex, and stunning, sweeping mountain and valley vistas of the Canadian Rocky Mountains. For those with stamina, you can hike along the 7.4-km. round trip Sundance Trail and the 2.7-km. Marsh Loop.

The Hotel

Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada: 311 Cave Ave., Banff, Alberta T1L 1K2.  Tel:+1-403-762-1566.  E-mail: caveandbasin@pc.gc.ca.  Admission: $9.00 (adults), $7.50 (seniors) and free for children. Free admission on Canada Day. Open daily, from May 15 to October 15, 9:30 AM to 5 PM. Closed: September 21 to 24, 2026. Coordinates:

How to Get There: It is located about 2 kms. and a 30-min. walk from the town center. Once you cross the bridge, look for the dedicated walking trail. The Cave and Basin Trail will take you all the way there. From Banff, head south on Banff Avenue (the main street through Banff), over the Bow River Bridge to a T-intersection, and then turn right on Cave Avenue and follow the signs. The Cave and Basin parking lot is located at the end of this road. By bus, Roam bus route #4 will take you to the Cave and Basin.