Category Archives: Temples

Namba Jinja Shrine (Osaka, Japan)

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Namba Jinja Shrine

We were now on our last day in Osaka and we still had time to explore the city as our Cebu Pacific flight back to Manila was still in the late afternoon.  After breakfast at the hotel, my nephew Miguel, who was proficient in Japanese, offered to tour us around before returning to Kyoto to work and study.  We decided to walk to the nearby Namba Jinja Shrine. It was rainy that day.

Torri (Gate)

Nestled along Midosuji Avenue in Osaka’s Chūō Ward, the tranquil, restored Namba Jinja Shrine complex was said to have been founded in the 5th century by Emperor Hanzei, who established Shibagakinomiya Shrine in Matsubara City, Osaka Prefecture, to enshrine his father, Emperor Nintoku. 

Purification Fountain (Temizuya)

It holds the weight of ancient Imperial reverence and civic memory and stands as a historical anchor amid the city’s pulse.  The shrine was later moved to Hommachi, Tennoji Ward, and then moved to its current location in 1583 (Tensho era) after Toyotomi Hideyoshi built Osaka Castle.

Shrine with Offertory Box (Saisen-bako)

It was named “Kami-Namba Shrine” after the area and, later, adopted its current name in 1875 (Meiji era). During the Edo period, with the rise of Inari worship, the Inari Shrine, a branch shrine within the grounds, commonly known as “Bakuromachi no Oinari-san,” became more famous than the main shrine. Uemura Bunrakuken opened a puppet theater troupe within the shrine grounds in 1811 (Bunka era 8).  Destroyed during World War II, the shrine was rebuilt in 1974, with reinforced structures that echo its pre-war architecture.

Camphor Tree

Passing through the sturdy stone torii, we were welcomed by a sacred courtyard framed by modern buildings yet rooted in centuries-old tradition. Today, it has three different shrines with different deities, offering a gentle yet powerful pause with the rustle of leaves, flicker of lanterns, and soft murmur of prayers—a tender heartbeat within Osaka’s fast rhythm.

Cherry Blossom Tree

Known for its lion-dog (komainu) and fox (kitsune) statues and cherry blossom gardens, the shrine is also home to a scorched but unbowed and majestic 400-year-old camphor tree, one of the oldest in Osaka, whose trunk radiates quiet resilience and offers visitors a moment of grounding in the midst of urban haste. There is a belief that if you touch it, you will receive the “power” to rejuvenate yourself.

Fox Statues (Kitsune)
Lion-Dog Statue (Komainu)

Revered within Settsu Province’s Soja shrine network, Namba Jinja Shrine invites prayers for health, prosperity, and protection from calamities. At the beginning of the Meiji era, when Bunrakuken moved to the new development in Kujo, the “Hikorokuza” troupe opened on the site.

Red and Blue Banners (Nobori)
Wish Cards (Ema)

Each summer, the Himuro Ice Festival, held every year from July 20 to 21, visitors and worshippers are cooled by being given crushed kachiwari ice, a charming ritual reminding us of ancient ways to beat the heat.  It is said that if you eat this ice, you will not be defeated by the summer.

Sacred Lottery (Omikuji)

Namba Jinja Shrine: 4 Chrome 1-3 Bakuromachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka 541-0059. Tel: 06-6251-8000.  Fax: 06-6251-5110. Website: www.nanba-jinja.or.jp. Open daily, 7 AM – 6 PM. Admission is free.

How to Get There: Osaka Metro Midosuji Line “Shinsaibashi Station” Exit 3.  It is a 5-min. walk from Exit 13 of Osaka Metro Hommachi Station.

Nara Park (Nara, Japan)

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Nara Park

Our fourth full day in Japan was to be spent on a whole day tour of Nara, a 32-km. (35-min.) drive from Osaka.  Our first stopover was to be Nara Park (Nara Kōen), a public park at the foot of Mount Wakakusa , designated as one of the “Places of Scenic Beauty” by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology (MEXT). One of the oldest parks in Japan, it was established in 1880.

The park, under the administrative control of Nara Prefecture, is known for its over 1,200 wild, freely roaming sika deer (shika) around in the park that are also under designation of MEXT and classified as Natural Treasures. The sika deer were considered divine and sacred by both Kasuga Grand Shrine and Kōfuku-ji.

L-R: Mark, the author, Matthew, Nenette, Jandy, Grace and Miguel at Nara Park

According to local folklore,  Takemikazuchi, one of the four gods of Kasuga Grand Shrine, received an invitation from Kashima Shrine (in present-day Ibaraki Prefecture) and he was said to, and appeared on Mount Mikasa (also known as Mount Wakakusa) riding a white deer. From that point, killing one of these sacred deer was a capital offense up until 1637, the last recorded date of a breach of that law.

The author, Miguel and Jandy feeding the deer

While the official size of the park is about 502 hectares (1,240 acres), defined by the Urban Park Act in 1960, the surrounding  area including the grounds of the Nara National Museum and Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, which are either on the edge or surrounded by Nara Park, is as large as 660 hectares (1,600 acres).

Deer engaged in territorial behavior by bumping heads

Within the 660-hectare area are World Heritage Sites (Tōdai-ji, Kōfuku-ji, Kasuga Grand Shrine and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest), registered under the title Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara, as well as 47 buildings and 374 arts and crafts (mainly consisting of Buddhist statues and religious arts and crafts) designated as National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties found in the grounds of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines such as Todai-ji, Kofuku-ji, Kasuga Grand Shrine, Shōsōin, Shin-Yakushi-ji, Gangō-ji, and others; designated by the Japanese government.

Check out “Kofuku-ji Temple” and “Todai-ji Temple”

One of 1,700 cherry blossom trees in the park

The Kasugayama Primeval Forest is also designated as a Special Natural Monument (Tokubetsu Tennen Kinenbutsu), while the sika deer, the habitat of the Panchala ganesa butterfly, the Nageia nagi tree forest of Kasuga Grand Shrine, and the Prunus verecunda “Antiqua” tree of Chisokuin are designated as Natural Monuments (Tennen Kinenbutsu).

Japanese Evergreen Oak (Ichiigashi)

Aside from sika deer, the other wild animals that inhabit the park include  wild boar, Japanese raccoon dogs, Japanese giant flying squirrels and Japanese squirrels, among others. The vegetation consists of pine trees (matsu, some reported to be over 1,000 years old), roughly 1,700 cherry blossom trees (including shidarezakura weeping varieties), camphor trees (kusu), maple trees (momiji), plum trees, Japanese cedar (sugi) and Japanese pieris, among others.

Jinrikisha (Japanese Rickshaw)

For centuries, the Nara deer have coexisted with the city’s inhabitants, and now, the multitude of travelers coming, from far and wide, to take their picture-perfect selfies with them. Any visit to Nara Park is never complete without frolicking amongst, and feeding its herds of four-legged creatures. The deer are known for bowing their heads to tourists to request specially sold, registered shika-senbei (“deer-crackers”), at 200¥ per pack, which are exclusively sold by the WNOW company.

These bows are learned (not instinctual) gestures to get food and deer can be highly opportunistic, using bows as an “implied threat” for food.  The experience can unnerving for others who flee in terror as a dozen more of them surround them in search of their own treats. They can also be aggressive, biting, chasing, or head-butting visitors for crackers.

Nara Park: 469 Zoshicho, Nara, 630-8501, Japan. Tel: +81 742-22-0375. Coordinates: 34.685°N 135.85°E

How to Get There: Nara Park is serviced by the Kintetsu Nara Station (a 5-min. walk) and is reachable by the Kintetsu Line from Osaka-Namba Station.

Ikuta Jinja Shrine (Kobe, Japan)

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Ikuta Jinja Shrine

After our tour of Meriken Park, it was just a short 2-km. drive to the wonderful Ikuta Shrine (Ikuta-jinja).  A major shrine in Kobe, is believed to be one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan.  Famous as a “power spot” for matchmaking and love, dotted around the grounds of Ikuta Jinja are 14 sub-shrines, each dedicated to a different god. This shrine, in Kobe’s city center, has spacious grounds, impressive buildings and, at its rear, you can find a remnant of the ancient forest that once covered the entire area.

Check out “Meriken Park”

The author (left) with Miguel, Nenette, Jandy, Matthew, Grace and Mark

According to Nihon Shoki (Nihongi), the second oldest book of of classical Japanese history, it was founded in 201 AD by the Empress Jingū to enshrine the goddess (kami) Wakahirume-no-Mikoto. Empress Jingu was returning from the Three Kan campaign on the Korean Peninsula, when her ship was nearly shipwrecked by bad weather. By praying to Watatsumi, she managed to survive by stopping at what is now Kobe harbor. Upon arrival, she held a divination ceremony that summoned the goddess Wakahirume-no-Mikoto, and the goddess said she wanted a shrine to be built for her in a place called Ikuta.

Old wooden torii

The shrine was originally located, on a sand dune, further north from its current location on Mount Isagoyama. However, in 799 AD, terrible floods threatening to wash the shrine away forced priest Tone Shichidayu to carry the goddess, in a portable shrine, to search for a new home. After 8 days, the portable shrine suddenly became too heavy.  Taking this as a divine message, the goddess was re-enshrined at its present location.

Tower Gate

In 806 AD, 44 households were given responsibility for the care and protection of the shrine and given the title kanbe (meaning “sacred households”). This was the origin of the name of the city of “Kobe,” which is written with the same characters.

Chozu-ya basin

In 1938, the shrine suffered damage during floods and, in 1945, was severely damaged during air raids in World War II.  On January 17, 1995, the shrine suffered significant damage during the Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake. However, following each tragic event the shrine was restored with the support of local citizens. As a result, Ikuta Jinja is now loved and respected by the people of Kobe as a symbol of the city’s resilience and resurrection.

Ikuta Shrine Earthquake Recovery Monument

Before entering the shrine, there’s a chozu-ya (or temizuya), a traditional roofed Shinto water ablution pavilion, on the right, where we would ritually purify ourselves, by taking a bamboo scoop and washing our hands and mouth with the water, before approaching the splendid shaden (main shrine building), flanked by lion-dog statues (komainu), where you can softly murmur prayers in your mind.

Shaden (Main Shrine)
Interior of Shanden

We entered the shrine through the striking, vermilion-lacquered tower gate (ro-mon) which marks the transition, from bustling city, to the forested shrine grounds. 

Lion-Dog Statue (Komainu)
Fox Statue (Kitsune)

After passing through the impressive tower gate, we saw booths, on either side, selling a variety of omamori (protective charms) and omikuji (fortune paper slips). To the left of the shaden is a picturesque pond, with lotus flowers (in full bloom from July to August), ducks and koi (Japanese carp), called Ikuta-no-ike.  The serene, leafy pond has a small island accessible by a bridge. 

Ikuta-no-ike

On the island is a small sub-shrine called Ichikishima Jinja, dedicated to Ichikishima-hime, (also called Benzaiten), the goddess of water and all things that flow (like language, performing arts and music).  This peaceful retreat is often visited for romantic blessings.

Ichikishima Jinja

Near the entrance of Ikuta Jinja are two quite important sub-shrines. Just after the second torii gate, on the left side, is the maritime-focused Daikai Jinja (literally “Ocean Shrine”) with a red torii. 

Daikai Jinja

Dedicated to Sarutahiko-no-Mikoto, a god of guidance and travel, people pray here for safety at sea which is very important in a port city like Kobe. On the right side is Matsuo Jinja with a concrete gray torii. Dedicated to Oyamakui, the god of farming and sake brewing, this is an important shrine as Kobe is the home of many famous sake breweries.

Ikuta-no-mori

At the far end of Ikuta Jinja’s grounds, behind the shaden, is the quiet and peaceful Ikuta-no-mori, the remains of an ancient forest. The forest was the site of the Battle of Ichi-no-Tani, a major battle during the the end of the Heian Period Genpei War (1180-1185), commemorated by markers. Today, Ebira and Ikuta Atsumori, two Noh plays which retell aspects of the Genpei War, are performed, on a regular basis, every year at Ikuta’s Autumn Festival (Akimatsuri), near the Ikuta Shrine. Ikutamorizasha, a sub-shrine inside the forest, is dedicated to the Empress Jingū. People pray here for growing things and for the safe birth of babies.

Cherry blossoms

At Kinryusen, a popular spot in the forest, you can have your fortune read by water.  When you float an initially-blank mizu-omikuji (a Japanese water-activated fortune slip bought at the shrine office, 300 yen) on the water, your fortune (only available in Japanese) will appear, split into different categories such as your lucky color, location, place and more.  Truly, a delightful and interactive experience for visitors.

Lady floating an initially-blank mizu-omikuji at the kinryusen

We also saw rows of omikuji (also in English, Korean and simplified and traditional Chinese) tied to racks. The goddess of weaving, Wakahirume is said to be good at making connections (whether these be business connections or romantic connections) so people pray to her for prosperity in business and happy marriages.

Omikuji (paper fortunes)

Also, as the shrine has survived many disasters in the past, people also pray here for their health and for protection from calamity.  Visitors often make a small donation and draw an omikuji to discover their luck in love and business.  If it’s bad luck, they tie it to a rack to leave the bad luck behind.

Sacred camphor tree

Also within the forest are the remains of a camphor tree which was around 500 years old (seen from its rings) when it fell. It is considered sacred and is seen as a symbol of reconstruction and revival because it survived the bombing of Kobe during World War II and, although terribly burned, it recovered and continued to live for many years.

Inari Shrine

Within the forest, you can also walk through a striking, continuous series of 22 vermillion-lacquered torii gates (often referred to as a “row of red torii), donated in 2016, leading to the Inari Shrine dedicated to Uganomitama-no-Mikoto, the very important god of food, rice (the traditional staple food of Japan) and business prosperity who is also considered the god of fertility and life.

Series of torii

Ikuta Jinja Shrine: 1-2-1 Shimoyamate-dōri, Chūō-ku, Kobe, Hyōgo prefecture 650-0011. Tel: +81 78-321-3851.  Open daily, 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 34°41′42″N 135°11′26″E.

How to Get There: Ikuta Jinja is a short 10-min. walk from JR Sannomiya Station. Here is a map showing its location.

Mitsutera Temple (Osaka, Japan)

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Mitsutera Temple

Japan is known for being a heady mix of the old and new, and this is perhaps best exemplified by the way some of its high-rise blocks are carefully built around, or integrated with, ancient temples.  One such example is the ancient, charming Mitsutera Temple, known affectionately as Mittera-san by local residents.  Located along bustling Midosuji Avenue, a major artery in the center of Osaka, its main hall, dating back to the early 1800s, has been neatly embedded at the base of the large, 15-storey, 180-room Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, in the city’s Chuo Ward. The first few floors are atrium-style to provide ample space for the hall.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi”

Entrance to hotel and temple

Mitsutera Temple, founded in the Nara Period (710-784) by the renowned monk Gyōki (one of 49 temples established by him during this period) to serve as a burial site for Emperor Ojin (Japan’s 15th emperor), on the orders of Japan’s 45th emperor, is a member of the Omuro school of the Shingon sect of Buddhism headquartered at Ninnaji temple in Kyoto. After it burned down in the late Edo Period (1603-1867), the current main hall was rebuilt in 1808 and, in 1945, remarkably survived the Great Osaka Air Raid unlike many other wooden structures in the city.

View of temple from Midosuji’s sidewalk
Temple bell (bonsho or tsurigane)

A decline in parishioner numbers and an increasing demand for simplified funerals have made it difficult for the temple to financially survive.  In a rare partnership and an attempt to pass down the temple to posterity, Mitsutera temple entered into a fixed-term land leasehold agreement, of 50 years, with Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi wherein Mitsutera will tap into the rent to cover expenses, such as repairs to the main hall and altar fittings.  The construction project was undertaken jointly by Mitsutera and Tokyo Tatemono Co., a property developer based in Tokyo’s Chuo Ward.

The 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva

From 2020 to 2023, it was physically merged and incorporated into the hotel, which was built directly above the temple. The entire main hall structure was jacked up and, to facilitate the new construction, relocated within the site and moved in one piece to sit alongside Midosuji’s sidewalk, allowing the tower block to be constructed behind and around it. On November 26, 2023, the temple’s main hall was opened there, creating a unique blend of traditional architecture and modern development.

For the aging temple, this creative solution preserved the history and architecture of this centuries-old temple, allowing hotel guests a special experience of staying almost at a temple, participating in religious practices, including morning prayers, eshakyo (transcription of sutra and Buddha images) and meditation. The main hall is within the first three floors.

Mitsutera Temple houses precious Buddhist statues and paintings that Osaka City designates as cultural properties. Decorated in lacquer, gold leaf, and flower petals, the main hall’s center is dominated by an 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva, with eight other Buddhist statues (including figures such as the Buddhas Yakushi Nyorai and Kobo Daishi, among others) arrayed to the sides. 

This temple offers a black and white goshuin where you need to trace the lines and words color the picture and write your own wish. After that, they will help to stamp the special ink on the completed goshuin. Today, it is a pleasant experience to stroll in the area as the aroma of incense floats next to the fragrance of perfume from the boutiques of high fashion brands which line Midosuji.

Kannon Sacred Lottery (Omikuji) – fortune-telling paper slips found offering guidance on aspects like love, health, and work

Mitsutera Temple: corner of Midosuji Avenue and Mitsudera-suji Sts., 2 Chome-7-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0085, Japan. Tel: +81 6-6211-1982.

How to Get There: Mitsutera Temple, located near Shinsaibashi-suji and Dotonbori, conveniently situated within walking distance from both Namba Station and Shinsaibashi stations on the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line.

Sun World Fansipan Legend – Cultural/Spiritual Complex (Sapa, Vietnam)

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For many Vietnamese, visiting Fansipan is more than a sightseeing trip, it is a form of modern pilgrimage. The temples of the Sun World Fansipan Legend spiritual complex are a remarkable network of religious structures built to honor Vietnam’s deep-rooted Buddhist traditions, heavily influenced by the Trúc Lâm Zen school of Vietnamese Buddhism, which promotes inner peace through harmony with nature.

The Great Amitabha Buddha Statue on the upper left, and the Heavenly Gate Temple on the upper right

It has transformed Fansipan Mountain, from a rugged trekking destination, into a place of pilgrimage. Reflecting Vietnam’s historical reverence for the natural world as a dwelling place of divine energies, these temples were constructed in the 2010’s with a vision to preserve spiritual heritage while making it accessible to modern visitors via cable car.

L-R: the author, Jandy and Grace beside a bell which was cast in the style of ancient Tran Dynasty bells. This rung at set times

Perched at over 3,000 m. above sea level, building these temples at such high altitudes required careful engineering and respect for the surrounding landscape, minimizing environmental impact while maximizing spiritual resonance. To ensure they reflect sacred geometry and the energy of the mountains, the temples were designed in consultation with Buddhist monks and Feng Shui experts.

Bao An Thien Tu (Trinh Pagoda)

The Fansipan spiritual journey starts at the tranquil Bao An Thien Tu (also known as Trinh Pagoda), located at the base of the Fansipan spiritual complex at an altitude of 1,604 m., near the Muong Hoa Station.  Built in traditional Vietnamese style, it offers a peaceful blend of traditional architecture and stunning mountain views.  The introductory Buddhist “presentation temple,” it serves as the first stop for pilgrims, arriving via the cable car, to pray for safe travels before ascending to the higher shrines like Bich Van Thien Tu and Kim Son Bao Thang Tu.  One of the most peaceful stops on Fansipan, locals and travelers come here to light incense and pray for good health, peace, and safe travels. It also offers stunning views over the misty mountains.

Interior of Trinh Pagoda

Upon exiting the Fansipan cable car station, one of the first structures we encountered was Thanh Van Dac Lo (often referred to as the “Heavenly Gate Temple”), a stone gate built in the typical ancient architectural style of the Ly Dynasty (10th-13th centuries) with its pillars of monolithic blue stone.  It serves as a symbolic threshold between the earthly realm and the spiritual plane. Frequently shrouded in drifting clouds, heightening the sense of transcendence, its name roughly translates to “Clear Clouds Gain the Way,” referring to the Buddhist aspiration of clarity and liberation.

Thanh Van dac Lo (Heavenly Gate Temple)

Further out into the complex lies Kim Son Bao Thang Pagoda (Kim Son Bao Thang Tu) which honors the Buddha, Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara (Guanyin) and revered Vietnamese saints.  The largest and most significant spiritual complex on Fansipan, it draws pilgrims and tourists alike who want to soak up the sacred atmosphere.  The complex, converging the quintessence of Vietnamese wooden pagoda architecture from the 15th and 16th centuries, was built using natural materials such as aged ironwood and hand-carved stone.  The antique, intricately tiled roof was restored. 

Kim Son Bao Thang Pagoda

Its interior is adorned with golden statues, incense urns and calligraphic prayer scrolls. Featuring ornate shrines, bronze statues, and stone towers, it feels particularly magical when the clouds roll in, surrounding the pagoda with mist. Aligned according to feng shui principles, the temple believed to channel spiritual energy flowing through the Hoàng Liên Sơn mountain range.  The pagoda includes a front hall, the Three Treasures, the ancestral house, and the Three Mandarins.

The 11-storey stupa of Kim Son Bao Thang Pagoda

The 11-storey stupa, in the yard in front of Kim Son Bao Thang, is clad with limestone from Central Vietnam. The lotus-shape top of the stupa, cast in copper, was inspired by the famous Pho Minh Stupa (in Nam Dinh Province), with typical Buddhism architecture of Tran Dynasty.

Bích Vân Thiên Tu (Azure Cloud Temple)

Higher up is the small yet beautiful Bích Vân Thiên Tu (or the Azure Cloud Temple), a temple situated at a midway point on the journey, at an altitude of 3,037 m. above sea level.  Nestled among pine trees and frequently enveloped in mist, this smaller temple, despite its remote location, offers perfect balance of cultural immersion and natural scenery and a quieter, more intimate setting for prayer.

Interior of temple

Reflecting traditional architectural style of Vietnamese pagoda design influenced by the essences of Tran Dynasty (13th-14th centuries), it was carefully constructed with multi-tiered roofs, dragon finials and, at the entrance, stone guardian lions. From here, one can view the jagged peaks of the surrounding range and, on clear days, even the Yunnan mountains across the border to China.

Many visitors stop here to rest and admire the sweeping mountain views before continuing upward. The pagoda consists of wooden three-compartment and two-bay main hall, together one temple to worship Saint Tran00 Hung Dao and one to worship Three Holy Mothers. At the courtyard, in front of the pagoda, visitors can view the majestic landscape panorama of Hoang Lien mountains and forests.

Grand Belfry (Vong Linh Cao Dai)

The 32.8 m. high Grand Belfry (Dai Hong Chung, also called Vong Linh Cao Dai), located on the main axis of Bich Van Zen Monastery, comprises 5 storeys, four of which were built with rock, and the upper storey designed after the traditional eight-roof pavilion. Each storey hosts a bronze bell that was cast after the original one in Tran Dynasty. 

Along a small path, from Bich Van Zen Monastery, leads to the 21.5 m. high, massive Great Amitabha Buddha statue (Tuong Phat A Di Da), one of the most iconic symbols of the Fansipan complex. Cast from over 60 tons of bronze, this statue, representing the Buddha of Infinite Light and Compassion, is one of the largest seated bronze Buddhas of its kind in Vietnam.  Built in 2015, the statue is surrounded by lotus lanterns and its pedestal is decorated with a dragon and flower.

Great Amitabha Buddha Statue

Overlooking the vast Muong Hoa Valley below, it offers visitors a powerful space for contemplation. A breathtaking sight that symbolizes peace and enlightenment, its presence dominates the mountain landscape, often appearing like a silhouette in the clouds.

Inside the great Buddha statue is a place where the “Dharma Treasure Buddha’s Relics” are housed.  The Buddha relic, enshrined on February 2, 2019, was donated by the Vinh Nghiem Pagoda (in turn, given by Myanmar monks in the past), to pray for the peace for the nation and its people. The Buddha relic is stored in a small bronze tower clock within a 7-storey crystal stupa. Its first floor offers a space to rest and enjoy vegetarian dishes while the second floor arranges space to display images of Buddha. At the foot of the Great Buddha Statue is the 9-storey, 30 m. high waterfall with 150 stone steps on both sides.  Inside is a pillar of Buddhist scriptures.

Base of the Buddha statue

Another striking feature of the complex is the 800 m. long Arhat Road (Con Đuong La Hán), a stone path, along the mountain side leading to Kim Son Bao Thang Pagoda, lined with rhododendrons, ancient, century-old azalea trees (that still bloom from the end of December to June each year) and 18 2.5 m. high, lifelike bronze statues of Arhats or enlightened disciples of the Buddha. Each figure, weighing up to 500 – 600 kgs., is carved with distinct facial expressions and poses, representing various virtues such as wisdom, patience and determination. This path symbolizes the spiritual journey toward enlightenment and physically guides pilgrims up toward the final ascent to the Fansipan summit marker.

The Guan Yin Statue

The prominent, 12 m. high Guan Yin Statue (Tuong Quan Am), the elegant bronze statue of the Goddess of Mercy in front of the Kim Son Bao Thang Pagoda, weighs 18 tons, and sits gracefully on the mountainside. With eyes facing east, the statue holds a willow branch, on her right hand, and a sacred vase of orange trees, on her left hand, that symbolize benevolence and kindness. All represent the great compassion of suffering and saving suffering and saving sentient beings.  Here, visiting pilgrims pray for compassion and blessings. Against the dramatic backdrop of Fansipan, it’s one of the most photogenic spots on the mountain and travelers are drawn to its serene beauty.

How to Get There: By car, the 332-km. distance between Hanoi and Sapa take only 4 hours. Sleeper buses, suitable for budget travelers, has a longer transfer time than a car, about 5 hours. The convenient and easy trains, a popular choice as this vehicle allows passengers to enjoy the countryside’s scenery along the way, have the longest transfer time of 8 hours.

Sinheungsa Temple (Sokcho City, South Korea)

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Main courtyard of Sinheungsa Temple

Part of Cebu Blue Ocean Academy-sponsored South Korea tour

One of the highlights of our visit to the very scenic to the often very busy Seoraksan National Park, Korea’s most beautiful national park, is our tour of Sinheungsa (sometimes spelled Shinheungsa), the District Headquarters Temple of the Third District of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, supervising all the temples located in the northeastern Gangwon Province Area.

Situated on the slopes of Seoraksan in Sokcho, Gangwon Province, it is translated in English as “Spirit Arising Temple,” “Divine Inspiration Temple” or “Burgeoning Temple” (referring to the budding of a lotus flower, the symbol of enlightenment).

Seoraksan National Park

One of two Buddhist temples within the bounds of the national park (the other is Baekdamsa), it is the main temple of the area known as Outer Sorak-san Mountain.  It is remarkable for its constant changing over the centuries (it not only changed its position and name, but also the school of Buddhism to which it adhered). The temple stores numerous works of Buddhist art such as paintings, sculptures and tapestries.

Check out “Seoraksan National Park”

Many tourists hiking Seoraksan pass by this ancient Korean Zen (Seon) temple (believed to be the oldest in the world) on their way up to Ulsanbawi (peak), reached by following the wall outside Sinheungsa.  They also come to this ancient temple, with its deep historical significance, because of its beautiful scenery.  Other temples with the name Sinheungsa are located in Seoul, Samcheok and Icheon.

Kensington Star Hotel, the original site of Hyangheonsa

Historical accounts vary as to whether this temple was first constructed (at the site of Kensington Star Hotel) by the famed Buddhist monk Jajang-yulsa (590-658 A.D.) in 653 A.D. (the sixth year of the reign of Queen Jindeok of the Silla dynasty), first called Hyangseongsa (Temple of Zen Buddhism), or in 637 A.D. following his return from studying in Tang China.

In 698 A.D., the seventh year of King Hyoso’s (687-702 A.D.) reign, it was destroyed by fire. Three years later, in 701 A.D., Sinheungsa Temple was rebuilt by Great Master Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.), another famous monk and founder of a religious sect, on the site of Neunginam Hermitage (the present location of Naewonam Hermitage). He also renamed the temple, this time to Seonjeongsa Temple.

Bojero – a pavilion built in 1770

For 1,000 years, the temple blossomed in reputation but, in 1642, the temple burned down again and it was rebuilt in 1648 during the 20th year of the reign of King Injo of the Joseon dynasty. Many of the buildings built during that time are still standing, like the sanctuary, Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, Myeongbu-jeon Hall, Boje-ru Pavilion, Samseong-gak Hall, etc.

According to a legend, after most of the monks at the temple left after the 1642 fire, the Three Venerable monks Yeongseo, Hyewon, and Yeon-ok all vowed that they would rebuild the temple one day, passionately praying the gido (ritual supplication prayer every day.  One day, they had the same dream in which an old silver-haired heavenly deity called Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) appeared and told them to change the location of the temple to the bottom of the gorge to prevent three big misfortunes.

Pointing to the ground where the temple is currently situated, he said, “If you build a temple here, there will be no damage from the three major disasters of fire, floods or storms.”  Afterwards, this deity disappeared.  Thus, the temple was re-constructed at the current location and renamed as “Sinheungsa,” meaning “the temple was blessed by God (sin) and became prosper (heung).”

During the 195-1953 Korean War, the temple was badly damaged.  In 1995, the Chinese character sin of the temple’s name was changed from sin (meaning “god”) to sin (meaning “new”), in their wish that the temple will revive Buddhism again in the Yeongdong area (eastern part of the Taebaek Mountain Range).

The author at Iljumun Gate

The first structure that greeted Frank, James, Kim and I at the temple is the top heavy Iljumun Gate (or “One Pillar Gate”). After passing through this entry gate, we noticed the sharp, jagged rocks of the 1,708 m. high Mt. Seoraksan (the third highest in the country) surrounding us on all sides.  After passing Iljumun , we soon came across the 14.6-m. (48-ft.) high, 108 ton Great Unification Buddha, a gilt-bronze Buddha statue called “Tongil Daebul” on the right.

Tongil Daebul (Great Unification Buddha)

The largest seated Buddha statue in the world, it is dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha).  It sits atop a 4.3-m. (15-ft.) high lotus pedestal, of the same material, making the total height of 18.9 m. (62 ft.), excluding the lightning rod and the beautiful nimbus which surrounds Seokgamoni-bul’s head. It is flanked with 16 delicately engraved panels that tell the entire path of Buddha’s enlightenment through the words of Bodhisattva, messengers of Buddha’s teaching.

The 4.3 m. (15-ft.) high lotus pedestal flanked with 16 delicately engraved panels that tell the entire path of Buddha’s enlightenment through the words of Bodhisattva, messengers of Buddha’s teaching

This statue, serenely looking out on the amazing landscape of northern South Korea, cost 3.8 billion won (US$4.1 million) to erect, raised through the small contributions of over 300,000 anonymous donors visiting the temple over a decade in duration.  The construction started in 1987 and it was only finished in 1997 when the eyes were placed on the face. The statue, less than 50 kms. (30 mi.) from the impenetrable border between North Korea and South Korea, represents the crucial wish of the Korean people for the reunification of the divided country.

The beautiful nimbus surrounding the head of the Buddha.  Also shown is the center forehead adornment, half closed eyes and slight smile

The massive bronze statue is also positioned in the “Touching the Earth Mudra” (or the “Earth Witness Mudra”) which was the pose the Buddha had when he attained enlightenment. Tongil Daebul sits with legs crossed and half-closed eyes in meditation, his lips displaying a perceptible smile. His forehead is adorned with eight 8-cm. (3-in.) stones of amber, with a single piece of jade in the center that is 10 cms. (4 in.) in diameter. The Buddha’s robust torso is draped by a flowing robe with gentle folds, revealing the right shoulder.  The hands of Tongil Daebul are positioned in the mudra, symbolizing the “enlightened one.”

Contained within the hollow statue are three pieces of the Buddha’s sari, crystallized remains collected after his cremation, donated by the Myanmar government, and the Tripitaka, the original Buddhist scriptures.  The three sari are backed by three incarnations of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The statue is fronted by beautiful bronze incense burners and lanterns. A great number of people come here to pray for their wishes.

A beautiful bronze lantern

In front of the Tongildae-bul are three pathways. The left pathway goes to Biseondae, a summer house where, according to legend, the fairy Ma-go rose to heaven. The middle pathway goes to Ulsanbawi, a natural big stone ball, and passes Naewon-am and Gyejo-am. It is also the way to the green bridge Sesim-gyo. The right pathway goes to the white bridge Sesim-gyo.

The closed spandrel arch Hyeonsu-gyo Bridge

We finally had your fill of this amazing statue (which took us some time) and we made our way up a path, for two to three hundred meters, then crossed a ravine beyond the statue via a newly built, closed spandrel arch bridge to the right called Hyeonsu-gyo.  After crossing the Hyeonsu-gyo Bridge, the long stone wall of the main temple grounds awaited us.

The long stone wall of the main temple ground

We entered the temple through the rather boxy Cheonwangmun (or Sacheonwangmun) Gate which mark’s the entrance of the temple’s boundaries.  It houses some excellent examples of the Four Heavenly Kings.

The boxy Cheonwangmun (or Sacheonwangnum) Gate

These four Cheonwang (king) statues, believed to be Buddha’s protectors and evil-fighters, are placed on either side – Jiguk Cheonwang (“King of the East”) with a sword, Damun Cheonwang (“King of the North”) with a lute, Gwangmok Cheonwang (“King of the West”) with a tower, and Jeungjang Cheonwang (“King of the South”) with a dragon.

L-R: Damun Cheonwang (“King of the North”) with a lute, and Jiguk Cheonwang (“King of the East”) with a sword

In contrast with the big, generous smile of Tongil Daebul, the intimidating expressions of these four Cheonwang (king) statues welcome all those that dare enter the temple grounds.

L-R: Jeungjang Cheonwang (“King of the South”) with a dragon, and Gwangmok Cheonwang (“King of the West”) with a tower

To enter the main temple courtyard, we had to pass through the low-lying Boje-ru Pavilion, along a wooden building on stilts that acts as a screen that hides the rest of the inner portion of the temple grounds at Sinheungsa Temple.

Boje-ru Pavilion, a wooden building on stilts

We had to watch our heads so that we don’t smack it up against the ceiling as we passed under it.

Entering the main courtyard from Boe-ru Pavilion

Straight ahead is the Geukrakbo-jeon (“Precious Building”) Hall (also called Kukrobojeon), the Provincial Tangible Cultural Property #14 which acts as the temple’s main hall. Its exterior walls are adorned with a colorful set of Shimu-do, Ox-Herding Murals that describes the practicing process in a mountain.  The stairs leading up to the hall are decorated with some ancient Gwimyeon reliefs.

Geukrakbo-jeon (Precious Building) Hall

The central chapel of Geukrakbo-jeon, located beside Samseong-gak, is Gangwon Province Tangible Cultural Property 14. It has an octagonal roof, three front rooms, two side rooms and also has a special structural pattern and a great variety of design. The canopy over the statue is the octagonal Bogung type of inner structure carved with a dragon. The flower figure window is very interesting.

The interior is elaborately decorated with a triad of statues (Korean Treasure #1721) centered by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) on the main altar. This statue is joined on on the left side by Gwaneum-bosal (Avalokitesvara, the Merciful Goddess” or the “Power for Amita-bul”) and Daesaeji-bosal (Mahasthamaprapta, the “Wise Goddess” or “The Bodhisattva of Wisdom”) on the right side.

Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), on the main altar, flanked by Gwaneum-bosal (Avalokitesvara, the Merciful Goddess” or the “Power for Amita-bul”) on the left, and Daesaeji-bosal (Mahasthamaprapta, the “Wise Goddess” or “The Bodhisattva of Wisdom”) on the right.

This triad, created by monk Muyeom (along with the monk Hyeonjin, they were the leading monk sculptors of the mid-17th century), dates back to 1651. The proportionate sizes of the three statues, seemingly simple, yet refined in appearance, speaks to the harmony of these Buddhist statues.

A pair of halls are located to the left rear of the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall. The first, Myeongbu-jeon (Judgment Hall), houses, under a beautiful red canopy, a statue of Jijang-bosal (the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).  One of the most popular Bodhisattva shrine hall at a Korean temple, it’s meant to symbolize a “dark court” or “underworld.”  It is one of the more unique looking buildings in a temple because of its gruesome depictions of the afterlife, the uplifting paintings of salvation, the ominous judges and the serenely redemptive Jijang-bosal.

Myeongbu-jeon Hall

The triad (Korean Treasure #1749) on the main altar of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, which is centered by Jijang-bosal was, like the triad inside the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, also made by the monk Muyeom in 1651. Interestingly, various artists also participated in the production in separate procedures of the statues, including the molding, gilding and coloring of the three statues.

Samseong-gak Hall

To the rear of Myeongbu-jeon Hall is the Samseong-gak (“Three Saints”) Hall (also called Chilseong-gak), a shamanic shrine hall. It houses interesting, masterfully executed and vibrantly painted murals including images of of three Korean shaman deities – Chilseong (The Seven Stars), Dokseong (“The Lonely Saint”) and Sanshin (“The Mountain Spirit”), the modern Sanshin Taenghwa.  Its budo-won (stupa garden), containing 2 monuments, isdesignated as Provincial Tangible Cultural Property #115.

Murals of the three shaman deities

The temple also participates in the popular Temple Stay program which allows tourists looking to experience Zen meditation and asceticism to spend, for a fee, two or three days living the typical temple life of a Korean Buddhist monk, doing activities such as baru gongyang (communal Buddhist meal service), ceremonial service involving chanting, 108 bows aimed at removing 108 earthly desires, as well as programs of making a lotus lantern and Buddhist rosary.  The experience includes interpretations in Chinese, Japanese and English.  Visitors who donate money to the temple are given a new roof tile to write his wish on.

Rows of roof tiles with wishes written on it

Between Jeokmukdang and Beomjongru is an amusing figure of a turtle shooting water from its mouth. The sweet mineral water from this fountain is said to remove fatigue and provide freshness for those who drink from it.

The fountain

On the opposite side of the Kensington Star Hotel, at Hyangseongsa Temple Site, is a 3-story pagoda (National Treasure 443), an important cultural property and the northernmost extant Shilla Kingdom stone pagoda which demonstrates the traditional style of the Shilla period. Originally a nine-storey stone tower made of granite, only three storeys remain. When it was repaired, workers found a silver case for enshrining the sarira (bone fragments of Buddha, but it was empty.

The 3-storey Stone Pagoda at Hyangseongsa Temple Site

Sinheungsa: 1137 Seoraksan-ro, Sokcho-si, Gangwon Province, South Korea.  Open 24 hours.  Tel: +82 33-636-8001 and 033-636-7393.  Website: www.sinheungsa.krwww.sokchotour.com. Admission to Seoraksan National Park, where Sinheungsa Temple is located, is 2,500 won. Sinheungsa Temple itself is free.

How to Get There:

By Car: from Seoul, take National Road No. 6 and then National Road No. 44 in Yangpyoung. After passing Hongcheon, Inje and Hankyeryoung Service Area, join National Road No. 7 in Yangyang. Drive for 11.4 kms. to Naksan and soon you will reach Mulchi 3-way junction. Go left, following the sign to Seolakdong. Drive another 10.9 kms. and you will arrive in the parking lot at the entrance of Mt. Seolak.

From Inje, you can also take National Road No. 46 toward Misiryoung, not toward  Hankyeryoung Service Area. If you drive on the road for about 16.2 kms., you will reach the Yongdae 3-way junction. Make a right turn onto Lcal Road No. 466 and go another 13.6 kms. to Misiryoung. There is a 3-way junction with a sign for “Dae-myoung Seolak Leisure Town.“ From there, drive for 4.6 kms. toward Sokcho and you will get to ”Seokcho Plaza Resotel.”  Turn right and you will see “Cheoksan Hotspring” and, a little farther up, the hotel complex of Seolakdong and the parking lot at the entrance of Mt. Seolak.

By Public Transport:  From Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Express Bus Terminal St, Subway line No. 3 or 7, Orange or Dark green line), take the Express bus (available many times a day) to Sokcho or to the Sogongwon (small park) of Mt. Seolak. Local bus No. 7, from downtown Sokcho to Seolakdong, runs every 10 min. and it takes about half an hour. From Sokcho, you’ll need to take a bus (which leaves every ten minutes) bound for Seoraksan National Park. The bus ride takes around 20 to 25 minutes and the bus drops you off at Sogongwon, the entrance of the park.  From here, you’ll need to walk about ten minutes to get to Sinheungsa Temple.

Cebu Blue Ocean Academy: Building 5, EGI Hotel and Resort, M.L. Quezon National Highway, Looc, Maribago, Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu 6015, Philippines.  Tel: (032) 888-9868.  E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com.  Website: www.cebublueocean.com.  Baguio City (Benguet) Sister School: Pines International Academy, Romel Mansion, 3 Ignacio Villamor St., Brgy. Lualhati, Baguio City, Benguet, Philippines. Tel: 1 754-255-9818. E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com. Website: www.pinesacademy.com.

Seoraksan National Park (Sokcho City, South Korea

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Seoraksan National Park

Part of Cebu Blue Ocean Academy-sponsored South Korea tour

After our Korean breakfast at Natural Soul Kitchen Restaurant at Lotte Resort Sokcho, we had a whole day to explore the 398.22 sq. km. (153.75 sq. mi.) Seoraksan National Park (seoraksan-gungnipgong-won), located 3 hours northeast of Seoul.  A national park in South Korea, it is listed by the South Korean government with UNESCO as a tentative World Heritage Site.

In 1965, the government designated the area as a 163.6 sq. km. (63.2 sq. mi.) nature reserve  and, in 1982, UNESCO designated it as a biosphere reserve, the first in the country. On March 24, 1970, it became the first Korean national park to be named under the National Park Law. On August 9–16, 1991, the 17th World Jamboree (the biggest event for boy/girl scouts and held every 4 years) was held in Mount Sorak.

It was a straightforward 12 km. drive from Sokcho to Seoraksan (translated as “Seorak Mountain”) National Park.  Highlights of our visit was our exploration of Sinheungsa Temple, one of two Buddhist temples and cultural landmarks within the bounds of the national park (the other is Baekdamsa), and a cable car ride, to the Upper Cable Car Station located 700 m. (2,297 ft.) above sea level, where we enjoyed an open view of various famous attractions such as Ulsan Peak (ranked as the most popular hikes at Seoraksan National Park due to the unique rock formation and the fabulous views from the Rock and Manmulsang Rocks. 

Check out “Singheungsa Temple” and “Seoraksan Cable Car”

The long queue for a bus ride …..

Located on the east-central Korean peninsula, it is divided into the eastern section or outer section (Oeseorak), western section or inner section (Naeseorak) and the southern section (Namseorak).  Te reserve includes the Dinosaur Ridge, Injegun, Yanyanggun, and Sokchosi and some 28 mountain peaks (all part of the Taebaek mountain range measuring over 1,200 m. above sea level, the tallest being the 1,708 m. (5,604 ft.) high Daecheongbong (also called Seorak meaning “snowy peak”), the third highest peak in South Korea.

The ranges are composed largely of dissected granite and gneiss. The annual precipitation is about 1,000 mm. (39 in.) in Inner Soraksan and 1,300 mm. (51 in.) in Outer Soraksan. Popular with tourists and nature enthusiasts, it is home to many rare taxa of flora (the park is valued for its floral diversity) and fauna (1,562 animal species have been classified so far).

Sogongwon

The park is home to about 1,013 species of known plants, with 822 vascular plant species. On the southern slope, pine trees such as the Siberian pine are abundant while the northern slopes of the mountain range are characterized by oaks and other deciduous trees. Thuja grow in the deep valleys while dwarf pines and yews grow on low and high slopes. Juniper, hawthorn, and Manchurian fir can also be found.

Shops near Sogongwon

Other plants include forsythias, saw-worts and rare Hanabusaya asiatica.  Local fauna include otters, Siberian flying squirrel, kestrel, Chinese sparrowhawk, lenok, Chinese minnow, spotted barbel and endangered Tristram’s woodpecker, Korean goral, and the increasingly rare Korean musk deer.

Statue of an Asian Black Bear

As our visit was during a weekend, the park was packed with local and foreign tourists.  Luckily, we were able to park the car just across the bus waiting station where Frank, James, Kim and I joined a long queue of visitors waiting for the bus (which leaves every ten minutes) bound for Seoraksan National Park.

L-R: James, Kim, the author and Frank

L-R: Mamel, Injun, Engr. Ganzon and Grace

Once on board, the bus ride took around 20 to 25 minutes and we were all dropped at the bust stop across Kensington Stars Hotel (the most convenient place to stay in the park.  We then had to walk, for about 10 mins., to get to Sogongwon (translated as “small park”), the entrance of the park with the most attractions and visitors.

The entrance of the park has gift shops, shops selling hiking gear, food and refreshment shops and small restaurants places (mostly Korean but very few Western). After we walked past the entrance, there is statue of an Asian Black Bear (the icon of the park’s residents) on top of a square structure bearing “Seoraksan National Park.”

The red, yellow and orange hues of autumn…..

Koreans love hiking and this is very evident in Seoraksan National Park. On a nearby huge board, you can find a number of amazing and different hiking and walking trails to the attractions in the park waiting to be explored, ranging from short 1-hour walks to full 2-day treks into the wilderness, each varying in length and difficulty.  In fact, past the entrance are signposts showing directions to two beautiful waterfalls – Towangseong Falls Observatory (2.9 kms.) and Biryongpokpo Falls (2.4 kms.).

Sinheungsa Temple

The 30-min., easy,1.5-km. Gwongeumseong Hike can be done after riding up the cable car. The 1.5 to 2-hour, easy Biseondae Hike features relatively flat out-and-back style trail walking alongside the water.  The 2 to 3-hour, moderate 3 Waterfalls Hike takes you past Yukdam Falls, Biryong Waterfall and to the aforementioned observatory of Towangseong Waterfall. The final section is tough as it is a series of steep stairs for 500 m.  The fairly difficult, 3 to 4-hour Ulsanbawi Rock Hike features lots of lots of stairs but the views at the top are absolutely incredible. The relatively short (3 to 4 hours) but difficult, 3.6-km. Geumganggul Cave Hike is quite the challenge, with a lot of elevation.

Seoraksan Cable Car

However, aside from the Sinheunsa Temple visit and Seorak Cable Car ride, we came to the national park for another reason. Every autumn, Seoraksan National Park, offering some of the most beautiful scenery in South Korea, is one of the first and most impressive places to see and enjoy the beautiful autumn foliage hues of red, yellow and orange which peaks in mid-October, the time of our arrival.

Unification Stupa

Seoraksan National Park: Seoraksan-dong, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea.  Tel:  +82-33-801-0900.  Fax: +82-33-801-0969.  Open daily, 6 AM to 8 PM. The cable cars operate from 9 AM to 6 PM. Admission: ₩4500 (adult, age 20 to 65), ₩2000 (youth, age 14 to 19) and ₩1000 (children, age 8 to 13). Cable car tickets cost ₩ 11000 for adult (middle school students or older) and ₩7000 for children (37 months to elementary school).  Children under 36 months can ride the cable car for free.  Coordinates:  38°07′30″N 128°24′58″E.

How to Get There: In Sokcho, take bus 7-1 or 7, which run on 30-minute intervals, at the bus stop opposite the Sokcho Express Bus Terminal, to Outer Seorak (Oeseorak).  The whole bus journey takes about 30 minutes.

Cebu Blue Ocean Academy: Building 5, EGI Hotel and Resort, M.L. Quezon National Highway, Looc, Maribago, Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu 6015, Philippines.  Tel: (032) 888-9868.  E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com.  Website: www.cebublueocean.com.  Baguio City (Benguet) Sister School: Pines International Academy, Romel Mansion, 3 Ignacio Villamor St., Brgy. Lualhati, Baguio City, Benguet, Philippines. Tel: 1 754-255-9818. E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com. Website: www.pinesacademy.com.

Nung Chan Monastery (Taipei, Taiwan)

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Nung Chan Monastery

After our one-hour tour of Beitou Thermal Valley, we again boarded our tourist bus for the short 3.7-km. (10 min.) drive to Nung Chan Monastery.  Dropping off at Lane 65, Vincent Chen, our Eagle Tours guides, accompanied us as we walked, for 10 mins., to the entrance of the monastery.  Though it stopped raining, the skies were still overcast when we arrived.

Check out “Beitou Thermal Valley”

Touring the monastery grounds

The Nung Chan Monastery (meaning ‘Farming Ch’an‘), formally founded in 1975, is situated on 10,000 sq. m. (2.5 acres) of land acquired in the end of the 1960s by Master Dong Chu, a scholar monk and disciple of renowned Chinese Buddhist Master Taixu.

The Original Farmhouse

Located at the vast Guandu Plain, facing the Keelung River and leaning against the Datun Mountain, near Taipei, it is part of the umbrella organization called Dharma Drum Mountain. The monastery offers meditation instruction in English and holds regular meditation meetings.

Main Buddha Hall

Since 1975, to accommodate the growing number of devotees and monks living there, there have been various expansions and renovations on the site. The new, simple, tastefully designed main buildings, designed by Taiwanese Architect Kris Yao Ren-Xi of Artech Architects, were designed and constructed from 2010 – 2012 in a manner befitting a monastery.

The massive interior wooden wall with the Heart Sutra, in Chinese characters

The monastery has two walls, of different lengths, which provide the monastery an appropriate buffer against the bustling city. Circling around the walls, our view opened up towards a serene courtyard with an 80 m. long lotus pond as its main focus. On the left is the two- storey, 330 sq. m. (3,600 sq. ft.) farmhouse, started in 1971 by Master Dong Chu and completed in 1975.

The jade statue of the Buddha sitting in the lotus posture on the Sumeru throne

The simple, serene and solid Main Buddha Hall, in the middle, features an upper wooden box with a transparent lower half, giving the impression that it is suspended in the air. Inside is a white jade statue of the Buddha, sitting in the lotus posture on the Sumeru throne. There was a service ongoing when we arrived, so we weren’t allowed to enter the hall.

The ongoing service within the spartan interior

Carved into the massive interior wooden wall, on the west side, is the famous “Heart Sutra,” in Chinese characters, which presents the Scriptures in hollow form.

The front colonnade

The sunshine shines through the carved-out scriptures on the other side, filling the interior space with reflections. The hall is linked, via double height corridors, to the meditation hall, dining hall, and monk’s living quarters.

The Water Moon Pool

The large Water-Moon Pool, with its smaller lotus pond, is located in front of the Main Buddha Hall.  The pond is flanked by a main circulation route and a covered corridor.  A focal feature of the center’s landscape, the pool reflects Main Buddha Hall and Corridor, the clouds and the sky like a mirror when still, helping the overall aesthetic elements and providing a nice background for photographs.

The L-shaped building

The façade of an L-shaped building, on the right, is inscribed with over 5,000 characters of the Diamond Sutra, an important sutra of the Chan School.

The Diamond Sutra facade

The Way to Compassion, originally the main entrance of Nung Chan Monastery, was built in 1982 by Master Sheng Yen to demarcate the Monastery grounds. The Chan Hall has a sitting statue of Shakyamuni Buddha.

The Connection Corridor, extending along the Water-Moon Pool to the Main Buddha Hall and Chan Hall, demarcates space while permitting light to enter.

Its two walls of exposed concrete form a serene space.   It was already starting to rain when we departed the monastery grounds to return to our bus.

The author

Nung Chan Monastery: No. 89, Lane 65, Daye Rd., Beitou District, Taipei, Taiwan. Tel:  886-2-2893-3161.  E-mail: jktie@ddm.org.tw.   Website:  www.ncm.ddm.org.tw.

Eagle Tours: +886-910-130-180 (Mr. Vincent Chen) and +886-932-013-880 (Ms. Joyce Chen).

How to Get There: 

Take bus #218, #266 or #302 to the Da-Ye-Lu-Yi Stop, and then walk straight down Lane 65 for about 10 minutes.  Via MRT, take the Danshui Line to Qiyan Station, turn left and walk down Sanhe Street until you reach Daye Road, turn left, pass the Volkswagen service center, and walk until you hit Lane 65. By car, take Daye Road and park at the Monastery’s parking lot.

Xia-Hai City God Temple (Taipei, Taiwan)

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Xia-hai City God Temple

The lively and well-loved Taipei Xia-Hai City God Temple, a temple built in 1859 to house the statue of Xia Hai Cheng Huang, the City God God which was brought over from Xia Cheng, Tong An County, Fujian province, China.  The losers in the Wanhua feud took this as they fled upstream.  Still maintained by a single family to the present day, the temple’s construction and development is closely connected to the history of local residents who migrated from Tong’an County, Fujian.  In 1985, the Ministry of the Interior designated the site as a Historical Monument.

Despite currently having a 160 year old history in its current location, it is not the oldest temple in Taipei (the Mengjia Longshan Temple is older).  However, unlike the other “older” temples which have had to be completely rebuilt on a few occasions, this one is still the same one you would have seen in 1859 when it was first built, although it has undergone a few renovations over the years.

Each and every day, this temple, one of the busiest places of worship in the city, is constantly jam-packed, both inside and outside, by thousands of people who pray for peace, love and happiness. Tourists, on the other hand, visit to learn more about the city and its history from people who work and volunteer in the temple.  They speak a number of languages (Mandarin, English, and Japanese) and are well-versed in explaining its history and, more importantly, how to properly pray and show respect to the City God.

Learning about this place is quite a lot easier than almost all of the other larger temples in the city because the temple provides reading materials to guests free of charge. The temple’s website also has a step-by-step guide on how to pray to the deities.

Worshipers lighting incense sticks at a censer outside

Little has changed since those days. The temple, close to the Dadao Theater and the Yongle Market in the section of Dihua Street, is a terrific spot to witness folk-worship rituals as well as admire some gorgeous pieces of traditional arts and crafts.

Check out “Dihua Street and Dadaocheng Walking Tour“

Built in the traditional Minnan (southern Chinese) architectural style which can be seen in its curved lines and emphasis on ornamentation, the temple’s decoration includes pottery figures, murals, paintings, mosaic-like cut-and-paste porcelain (jiǎnnián), and Koji ceramics.

The temple houses over six hundred deities, introduced in clear English signs, in its 152 sq. m. (46 ping) of area, resulting in the highest statue density in Taiwan. Some of the temple’s outstanding decorative pieces, aside from the City God, include the Matchmaker (said to have brought together thousands of couples)

The City God’s wife, known as a Chinese Cupid enshrined in 1971, is the recipient of devotees’ pleas concerning affairs of the heart. There are free sweet herbal teas at the temple lobby and recently engaged or married couples usually leave some cookies here.

In the main hall, just before the altar, are clay sculptures showing a man on an elephant holding a pike and chime and another showing a man riding a lion while holding a flag and ball

On the 14th day of the fifth lunar month, the City God’s birthday, features a procession, stretching over a kilometer, of teams from dozens of temples around Taipei send here to entertain the City God in festivities that last five days and gets going around 2 to 3 PM. The performances include lion dances, god dances and martial arts displays.

Taipei Xia-Hai City God Temple: No. 61, Section 1, Dihua Street, Dadaocheng, Datong District,  Taipei, Taiwan.  Tel: +886 2 2558 0346. E-mail: Ing.tai.wu@gmail.com.  Open daily, 6 AM – 9 PM.  Admission is free.

How to Get There: Bus: No. 9, 12, 250, 274, 304 or 9 to Yanping; 811 or R33 to Dihua St.; 206, 250, 255, 274, 304, 518, 539, 639, 641, 669 or 704 to Nanjing W. Rd. Via MRT: from Shuanglian Station, take the Red 33 bus to Dihua Street.

Fushan Temple (Jiufen, Taipei, Taiwan)

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Fushan Temple

While walking up the main road during my joint exploration of Jiufen with Joyce Ventura, we reached the top of the hill  where the road split. I  decided to try the right (the left road, I learned later, goes to Jinguashi) and, after a nearly 1 km. hike, we espied the gaudy Fushan Temple.

The temple’s gray and deep, dark green facade

The 200-year-old Fushan Temple in Jiufen is one of several temples (the others are at Shuinandong and Jinguashi) that worship Tudigong (The God of Neighborhood or the Earth God, one of the least important gods in the Taoist religion). During the Japanese Colonial Era, Jiufen’s Fushan Temple was the biggest Tudigong Temple in Taiwan.

Check out “Jiufen Old Street“

The temple’s brightly colored  interior

At the time of the gold rush, residents and mine workers prayed in this temple for safety and good fortune as they go in search of gold. Even today, locals believe that the gods here still guard them with things other than gold.

The main altar

An interesting blend of Japanese, Chinese and European decorative motifs, this “temple within a temple” initially just worshiped Tudigong but, in 1935, Weng, Shan-Ying (the director of the Jiufen department of Taiyang Mining Company) initiated the renovation of this temple, building 2 halls beside the temple so that people can also worship Avalokiteshvara and the Goddess of Child-giving.

An intricately carved column

At the exterior are two old stone lamps while the interior sports a beautiful arched post-and-beam structure (made without nails and rarely seen in Taiwan), intricately carved stone pillars, and panels, including one over the main altar with several nude Western-style angels. Its stone sculptures were made with local sandstone.

An equally intricately carved panel

At the temple atrium is a wishing well. The temple is surrounded by a Japanese style garden.Visitors and photographers can enjoy the cherry blossoms in March and April.

Fushan Temple: 1 Lunding Road (on the east side of 102 County Road and Lunding Road intersection), Ruifang District, New Taipei City, Taiwan 224. Open daily, 6 AM – 6 PM.

Eagle Tours: +886-910-130-180 (Mr. Vincent Chen) and +886-932-013-880 (Ms. Joyce Chen). 

How to Get There:  There is a bus station here and bus service between RuiFang and Fushan Temple.