We were now on our last day in Osaka and we still had time to explore the city as our Cebu Pacific flight back to Manila was still in the late afternoon.  After breakfast at the hotel, my nephew Miguel, who was proficient in Japanese, offered to tour us around before returning to Kyoto to work and study.  We decided to walk to the nearby Namba Jinja Shrine. It was rainy that day.

Nestled along Midosuji Avenue in Osaka’s Chūō Ward, the tranquil, restored Namba Jinja Shrine complex was said to have been founded in the 5^th century by Emperor Hanzei, who established Shibagakinomiya Shrine in Matsubara City, Osaka Prefecture, to enshrine his father, Emperor Nintoku. 

It holds the weight of ancient Imperial reverence and civic memory and stands as a historical anchor amid the city’s pulse.  The shrine was later moved to Hommachi, Tennoji Ward, and then moved to its current location in 1583 (Tensho era) after Toyotomi Hideyoshi built Osaka Castle.

It was named “Kami-Namba Shrine” after the area and, later, adopted its current name in 1875 (Meiji era). During the Edo period, with the rise of Inari worship, the Inari Shrine, a branch shrine within the grounds, commonly known as “Bakuromachi no Oinari-san,” became more famous than the main shrine. Uemura Bunrakuken opened a puppet theater troupe within the shrine grounds in 1811 (Bunka era 8).  Destroyed during World War II, the shrine was rebuilt in 1974, with reinforced structures that echo its pre-war architecture.

Passing through the sturdy stone torii, we were welcomed by a sacred courtyard framed by modern buildings yet rooted in centuries-old tradition. Today, it has three different shrines with different deities, offering a gentle yet powerful pause with the rustle of leaves, flicker of lanterns, and soft murmur of prayers—a tender heartbeat within Osaka’s fast rhythm.

Known for its lion-dog (komainu) and fox (kitsune) statues and cherry blossom gardens, the shrine is also home to a scorched but unbowed and majestic 400-year-old camphor tree, one of the oldest in Osaka, whose trunk radiates quiet resilience and offers visitors a moment of grounding in the midst of urban haste. There is a belief that if you touch it, you will receive the “power” to rejuvenate yourself.

Revered within Settsu Province’s Soja shrine network, Namba Jinja Shrine invites prayers for health, prosperity, and protection from calamities. At the beginning of the Meiji era, when Bunrakuken moved to the new development in Kujo, the “Hikorokuza” troupe opened on the site.

Each summer, the Himuro Ice Festival, held every year from July 20 to 21, visitors and worshippers are cooled by being given crushed kachiwari ice, a charming ritual reminding us of ancient ways to beat the heat.  It is said that if you eat this ice, you will not be defeated by the summer.

Namba Jinja Shrine: 4 Chrome 1-3 Bakuromachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka 541-0059. Tel: 06-6251-8000.  Fax: 06-6251-5110. Website: www.nanba-jinja.or.jp. Open daily, 7 AM – 6 PM. Admission is free.

How to Get There: Osaka Metro Midosuji Line “Shinsaibashi Station” Exit 3.  It is a 5-min. walk from Exit 13 of Osaka Metro Hommachi Station.

Upon arrival at the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, a short walk brought us to Nonomiya Shrine (Shrine of the Country), a small Shinto shrine  and a quaint stop along the Sagano walking path, surrounded on all sides by the chikurin, Arashiyama’s beautiful and gorgeous bamboo forest, that takes visitors up into the foothills of Arashiyama.  Brushwood fencing (koshibagaki) made from spicebush, found along the paths through the bamboo forest, surrounds the shrine, adding a bit of charm to its rustic touch.

Check out “Arashima Bamboo Forest”

Though the precincts, as well as shrine buildings, are small, the shrine has a lengthy history as a purification shrine, in ancient Japan, for unmarried imperial princesses and empresses, called saiō, were appointed, as priestesses, to bring offerings to the gods on behalf of the emperor and, in preparation for their journey to Ise Shrine, Mie Prefecture, would undergo a purification ritual, for a year, at Nonomiya Shrine. To become saiō, the young girls selected averaged between 10 and 13 years of age. However, some could be chosen from as young as 2 years, to as old as 28 years at the oldest. This custom lasted from around the year 673 to 660 (during the reign of Emperor Gagaigo), in which 64 saiō were chosen.

Nonomiya Shrine also appears in Sakaki chapter of the classic 11^th century Heian period novel Tale of Genji of Murasaki Shikibu, believed to be the oldest novel in the world, when the princess Lady Rokuyo no Yasusho is selected as a saiō and undergoes purification at Nonomiya Shrine. The parting scene between her and her lover Prince Hikaru Genji, the main character, is also set in the shrine.

When most people think of torii gates, they would probably imagine the more iconic, bright, lacquered vermilion torii gates but Nonomiya Shrine has a somewhat unusual black torii gate, made to resemble unstripped timber, referred to as kuroki (unbarked sawtooth oak log) once used to build torii all over Japan but a practice that gradually disappeared due to the difficulty of obtaining and preserving the raw timber. Today, this gate is the only kuroki torii left in Japan.  This style of gate harkens back to the oldest style of Shinto torii that would have been erected in the past, blending in so perfectly with the surrounding nature, the authentic atmosphere that makes you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time.

Nonomiya Shrine is comprised of a small main altar as well as several sub-shrines.  Many parishioners of Nonomiya Shrine are women who want to find love, wish for children or have a safe childbirth as it has a reputation for helping and interceding on behalf of women.  The shrine sells omamori amulets (enmusubi for a good relationship, kosazuke for conception of a child, anzan for an easy birth, etc.), found in various colors and designs, that reflect the theme of women’s happiness, and a variety of amulets are available at the shrine office to the right of the entrance.  

Others buy (for 1,000 yen each) ema (wooden votive tablets) where they can write, on the blank back side, their wish or prayers for a happy romance, before hanging it up on the kakedokoro (place for hanging plaques). They should also write down their name (if they don’t want to write their full name, initials are okay) and the date of their visit. They can also bring the plaque back with them if they want. Another fun thing to do at a shrine is to draw an omikuji (fortune slip) and Nonomiya Shrine has an omikuji box for this. Put a 100 yen coin into the slot at the top, and draw an omikuji slip from the bottom. 

For those with worries on their mind, they can try misogibarai, a ritual where they purifying sin and impurities by releasing them in water. This is done at the place on the left side of the shrine.

Shirafuku Inari Daimyōjin, the deity to pray to bless couples with children, easy labor and safe childbirth, and prosperous business, specifically enshrined in the first shrine you see after going through the vermilion torii, on the right of the entrance.

Behind the Shirafuku Inari Daimyojin shrine is yet another shrine, this one dedicated to Oyama Benzaiten, the deity of safe driving. Also enshrined here is Nonomiya Okami (also known as Amaterasu Okami), the deity said to grant health and wisdom.

To the left of the main hall is an altar, marked with masks, dedicated to Daikokuten, another lucky god. To the left of the Daikokuten shrine is a large, unique and peculiarly turtle-shaped stone called the Kame Ishi (Turtle Rock), or, alternatively, the Kami Ishi (Divine Rock). Said to enshrine Nonomiya Daikokuten, the god of marriage, it is said that, if you rub or touch this stone, while chanting your wish for a happy marriage or praying over it, your wish will be granted within a year. 

A pleasant and lovely little (66 square meters or 20 tsubo) garden, to the right of the main hall, a place of both simplicity and abundance.  It brims with a lush carpet of moss.  Said to be the richest and most beautiful in Kyoto, the moss appears even more lively after the rain.  A dip, between two small “hills” on the ground, is spanned by a tiny bridge, making it appear as a larger landscape represented in miniature. To the far left is Togetsukyo Bridge, a wooden bridge in the center of the city, that is a symbol of Arashiyama.

Two sub-shrines, alongside the garden, are marked with vermilion torii gates and lanterns.  One shrine is dedicated to Atago (a deity associated with a nearby mountain who is believed to deal with matters relating to fire and victory) and the other to Benzaiten (a goddess of luck and the arts) and Inari (a deity associated with business and agricultural success). 

Nonomiya Shrine: Saganonomiyacho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto, 616-8315. Tel: 075-871-1972. Fax: 075-871-0796. Open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free.

How to Get There: The nearest station is Arisugawa Station of Keifuku Dentetsu-Arashiyama Line, a 10-minute walk away.

After our tour of Meriken Park, it was just a short 2-km. drive to the wonderful Ikuta Shrine (Ikuta-jinja).  A major shrine in Kobe, is believed to be one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan.  Famous as a “power spot” for matchmaking and love, dotted around the grounds of Ikuta Jinja are 14 sub-shrines, each dedicated to a different god. This shrine, in Kobe’s city center, has spacious grounds, impressive buildings and, at its rear, you can find a remnant of the ancient forest that once covered the entire area.

Check out “Meriken Park”

According to Nihon Shoki (Nihongi), the second oldest book of of classical Japanese history, it was founded in 201 AD by the Empress Jingū to enshrine the goddess (kami) Wakahirume-no-Mikoto. Empress Jingu was returning from the Three Kan campaign on the Korean Peninsula, when her ship was nearly shipwrecked by bad weather. By praying to Watatsumi, she managed to survive by stopping at what is now Kobe harbor. Upon arrival, she held a divination ceremony that summoned the goddess Wakahirume-no-Mikoto, and the goddess said she wanted a shrine to be built for her in a place called Ikuta.

The shrine was originally located, on a sand dune, further north from its current location on Mount Isagoyama. However, in 799 AD, terrible floods threatening to wash the shrine away forced priest Tone Shichidayu to carry the goddess, in a portable shrine, to search for a new home. After 8 days, the portable shrine suddenly became too heavy.  Taking this as a divine message, the goddess was re-enshrined at its present location.

In 806 AD, 44 households were given responsibility for the care and protection of the shrine and given the title kanbe (meaning “sacred households”). This was the origin of the name of the city of “Kobe,” which is written with the same characters.

In 1938, the shrine suffered damage during floods and, in 1945, was severely damaged during air raids in World War II.  On January 17, 1995, the shrine suffered significant damage during the Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake. However, following each tragic event the shrine was restored with the support of local citizens. As a result, Ikuta Jinja is now loved and respected by the people of Kobe as a symbol of the city’s resilience and resurrection.

Before entering the shrine, there’s a chozu-ya (or temizuya), a traditional roofed Shinto water ablution pavilion, on the right, where we would ritually purify ourselves, by taking a bamboo scoop and washing our hands and mouth with the water, before approaching the splendid shaden (main shrine building), flanked by lion-dog statues (komainu), where you can softly murmur prayers in your mind.

We entered the shrine through the striking, vermilion-lacquered tower gate (ro-mon) which marks the transition, from bustling city, to the forested shrine grounds. 

After passing through the impressive tower gate, we saw booths, on either side, selling a variety of omamori (protective charms) and omikuji (fortune paper slips). To the left of the shaden is a picturesque pond, with lotus flowers (in full bloom from July to August), ducks and koi (Japanese carp), called Ikuta-no-ike.  The serene, leafy pond has a small island accessible by a bridge. 

On the island is a small sub-shrine called Ichikishima Jinja, dedicated to Ichikishima-hime, (also called Benzaiten), the goddess of water and all things that flow (like language, performing arts and music).  This peaceful retreat is often visited for romantic blessings.

Near the entrance of Ikuta Jinja are two quite important sub-shrines. Just after the second torii gate, on the left side, is the maritime-focused Daikai Jinja (literally “Ocean Shrine”) with a red torii. 

Dedicated to Sarutahiko-no-Mikoto, a god of guidance and travel, people pray here for safety at sea which is very important in a port city like Kobe. On the right side is Matsuo Jinja with a concrete gray torii. Dedicated to Oyamakui, the god of farming and sake brewing, this is an important shrine as Kobe is the home of many famous sake breweries.

At the far end of Ikuta Jinja’s grounds, behind the shaden, is the quiet and peaceful Ikuta-no-mori, the remains of an ancient forest. The forest was the site of the Battle of Ichi-no-Tani, a major battle during the the end of the Heian Period Genpei War (1180-1185), commemorated by markers. Today, Ebira and Ikuta Atsumori, two Noh plays which retell aspects of the Genpei War, are performed, on a regular basis, every year at Ikuta’s Autumn Festival (Akimatsuri), near the Ikuta Shrine. Ikutamorizasha, a sub-shrine inside the forest, is dedicated to the Empress Jingū. People pray here for growing things and for the safe birth of babies.

At Kinryusen, a popular spot in the forest, you can have your fortune read by water.  When you float an initially-blank mizu-omikuji (a Japanese water-activated fortune slip bought at the shrine office, 300 yen) on the water, your fortune (only available in Japanese) will appear, split into different categories such as your lucky color, location, place and more.  Truly, a delightful and interactive experience for visitors.

We also saw rows of omikuji (also in English, Korean and simplified and traditional Chinese) tied to racks. The goddess of weaving, Wakahirume is said to be good at making connections (whether these be business connections or romantic connections) so people pray to her for prosperity in business and happy marriages.

Also, as the shrine has survived many disasters in the past, people also pray here for their health and for protection from calamity.  Visitors often make a small donation and draw an omikuji to discover their luck in love and business.  If it’s bad luck, they tie it to a rack to leave the bad luck behind.

Also within the forest are the remains of a camphor tree which was around 500 years old (seen from its rings) when it fell. It is considered sacred and is seen as a symbol of reconstruction and revival because it survived the bombing of Kobe during World War II and, although terribly burned, it recovered and continued to live for many years.

Within the forest, you can also walk through a striking, continuous series of 22 vermillion-lacquered torii gates (often referred to as a “row of red torii), donated in 2016, leading to the Inari Shrine dedicated to Uganomitama-no-Mikoto, the very important god of food, rice (the traditional staple food of Japan) and business prosperity who is also considered the god of fertility and life.

Ikuta Jinja Shrine: 1-2-1 Shimoyamate-dōri, Chūō-ku, Kobe, Hyōgo prefecture 650-0011. Tel: +81 78-321-3851.  Open daily, 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 34°41′42″N 135°11′26″E.

How to Get There: Ikuta Jinja is a short 10-min. walk from JR Sannomiya Station. Here is a map showing its location.

Japan is known for being a heady mix of the old and new, and this is perhaps best exemplified by the way some of its high-rise blocks are carefully built around, or integrated with, ancient temples.  One such example is the ancient, charming Mitsutera Temple, known affectionately as Mittera-san by local residents.  Located along bustling Midosuji Avenue, a major artery in the center of Osaka, its main hall, dating back to the early 1800s, has been neatly embedded at the base of the large, 15-storey, 180-room Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, in the city’s Chuo Ward. The first few floors are atrium-style to provide ample space for the hall.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi”

Mitsutera Temple, founded in the Nara Period (710-784) by the renowned monk Gyōki (one of 49 temples established by him during this period) to serve as a burial site for Emperor Ojin (Japan’s 15th emperor), on the orders of Japan’s 45th emperor, is a member of the Omuro school of the Shingon sect of Buddhism headquartered at Ninnaji temple in Kyoto. After it burned down in the late Edo Period (1603-1867), the current main hall was rebuilt in 1808 and, in 1945, remarkably survived the Great Osaka Air Raid unlike many other wooden structures in the city.

A decline in parishioner numbers and an increasing demand for simplified funerals have made it difficult for the temple to financially survive.  In a rare partnership and an attempt to pass down the temple to posterity, Mitsutera temple entered into a fixed-term land leasehold agreement, of 50 years, with Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi wherein Mitsutera will tap into the rent to cover expenses, such as repairs to the main hall and altar fittings.  The construction project was undertaken jointly by Mitsutera and Tokyo Tatemono Co., a property developer based in Tokyo’s Chuo Ward.

From 2020 to 2023, it was physically merged and incorporated into the hotel, which was built directly above the temple. The entire main hall structure was jacked up and, to facilitate the new construction, relocated within the site and moved in one piece to sit alongside Midosuji’s sidewalk, allowing the tower block to be constructed behind and around it. On November 26, 2023, the temple’s main hall was opened there, creating a unique blend of traditional architecture and modern development.

For the aging temple, this creative solution preserved the history and architecture of this centuries-old temple, allowing hotel guests a special experience of staying almost at a temple, participating in religious practices, including morning prayers, eshakyo (transcription of sutra and Buddha images) and meditation. The main hall is within the first three floors.

Mitsutera Temple houses precious Buddhist statues and paintings that Osaka City designates as cultural properties. Decorated in lacquer, gold leaf, and flower petals, the main hall’s center is dominated by an 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva, with eight other Buddhist statues (including figures such as the Buddhas Yakushi Nyorai and Kobo Daishi, among others) arrayed to the sides. 

This temple offers a black and white goshuin where you need to trace the lines and words color the picture and write your own wish. After that, they will help to stamp the special ink on the completed goshuin. Today, it is a pleasant experience to stroll in the area as the aroma of incense floats next to the fragrance of perfume from the boutiques of high fashion brands which line Midosuji.

Mitsutera Temple: corner of Midosuji Avenue and Mitsudera-suji Sts., 2 Chome-7-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0085, Japan. Tel: +81 6-6211-1982.

How to Get There: Mitsutera Temple, located near Shinsaibashi-suji and Dotonbori, conveniently situated within walking distance from both Namba Station and Shinsaibashi stations on the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line.