Category Archives: Architecture

Manila Metropolitan Theater (City of Manila, Metro Manila)

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Manila Metropolitan Theater

After nearly 13 years, I finally got to see the historic Manila Metropolitan Theater (abbreviated as the MET), a renowned Filipino-influenced Art Deco masterpiece, in its restored state (after surviving the Second World War, it went through periods of disrepair and neglect before undergoing successful restoration), attending the closing and turnover ceremony of the Filipino Food Month 2026 at its ballroom. Located along the Pasig River and in front of the equally classic Manila Post Office, it was recognized as the forefront of the Art Deco architectural style (then a rage in the U.S.A.) in the Philippines.

Check out “Save the Manila Metropolitan Theater!!!“ and “Closing and Turnover Ceremony of Filipino Food Month“

Entrance facade with its proscenium-like central window of rectangular stained-glass panels

Designed by the late National Artist (for Architecture) Juan M. Arellano, its cornerstone was laid in February 1928, with construction by Pedro A. Siochi & Co. as contractors.  The biggest in the Far East at that time, the theater was inaugurated on December 10, 1931.

Side elevation

Arellano, known for his Neo-Classical architectural style employed in his design of the Legislative Building and Manila Post Office, departed from this and the Metropolitan Theater marked his departure towards more modern designs. For the structural configuration of the building, Arellano was inspired by the phrase “On Wings of Song,” a rectangular-shaped auditorium flanked by pavilions on either side. Throughout the design, Arellano weaved Filipino decorative elements into the Art Deco style. Philippine Magazine editor A.V.H. Hartendorp described the style as “modern expressionistic.”

The courtyard

During its heyday as the “Grande Dame” of theaters, the Met played host to vaudeville acts, zarzuelas, operas, pageants, Filipino and Spanish plays, and performances by well-known artists such as violinist Maestro Jascha Hefertz and composer/conductor Dr. Herbert Zipper (who conducted the Manila Symphony Orchestra).

The foyer

On October 21, 1976, the Metropolitan Theater was declared a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) and, on June 23, 2010, the National Museum of the Philippines recognized the Met as a National Cultural Treasure under the National Cultural Heritage Act.

National Cultural Treasure Plaque (2010)

Following extensive restoration by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA), which now oversees the venue, it reopened on December 10, 2021 (the Metropolitan Theater’s 90th anniversary) as a premier venue for arts and culture, including performances and special screenings.

Adam (Francesco Riccardo Monti)

The theater’s still had its exuberant and symmetrical exterior, with its tiara-like pediment with stylized, Muslim-inspired minarets crowning the top of the concave roof (which suggested its status as a theater back in its prime days), plus bas-reliefs with curlicues or mask-like chimeras; whimsical rope designs; friezes; colorful ceramic tiles;  intricate grille work at the doors and windows. and is also enhanced by sensuous, exotically-draped female statues, said to be Siamese dancers, done by Italian sculptor Francesco Riccardo Monti (who lived in Manila from 1930 until his death in 1958).

Eve (Francesco Riccardo Monti)

The façade’s focal point is its proscenium-like central window of rectangular stained-glass panels that corresponds with the shape and scale of the Main Theater inside. The stained-glass marquee, executed by the Kraut Art Glass Company, with the “Metropolitan” label backlit and surrounded by Filipino floral motifs, is highlighted, on both sides, by curving walls of colorful, decorated tiles resembling batik patterns of Southeast Asia. The wall that frames the stained-glass is a segmented arch with rows of small finials on the upper edge. 

Dance (Fernando Amorsolo)

Above the proscenium arch are eight iconic, original bas-relief figures, by Francesco Riccardo Monti, which were discovered intact, in 2017, after dismantling the anomalous additions from the 1978 restoration, surprising the NCCA who originally intended to reproduce the figures from historical photographs.

The History of Music (Fernando Amorsolo)

There are also moldings of zigzag and wavy lines that go with the sponged and painted multi-colored walls. Capiz lamps and banana-leaf formed pillars, which go alternately with the theater’s entrances, accent the ground level.

Balcony

At the entrance are elaborate wrought iron gates, patterned into leaf designs and various lines. I accessed the Main Theater through a foyer with a two-storey ceiling.  The foyer’s grillwork features a drooping floral balustrade, in a geometric Art Deco style, originally crafted by Arcadio Arellano, the brother and collaborator of Architect Juan M. Arellano.

The Main Theater

There were stairways, on either side, leading up to the balcony. By the stairways are the Adam and Eve bronze sculptures also done by Francesco Riccardo Monti. On opposite sides of the foyer are reproductions (since the 1996 foreclosure, the original murals are in the GSIS Museum) of two mural paintings, “The Dance” and “The History of Music,” by the late National Artist Fernando Amorsolo. 

The Loge Section and the ceiling of Isabelo Tampinco

The theater used to seat 1,670 (846 in the orchestra section, 116 in loge and 708 in balcony) but, during its 2020 renovation, the capacity of the Main Theater was reduced to 990 and the floor’s elevation was adjusted to comply with safety regulations.

Balcony Section
Balcony Section

The ceiling is decorated with intricate interior motifs such as Art Deco mangoes, bananas, and tropical leaves bas-reliefs designed by Isabelo Tampinco.

The author (left) with Teddy Pelaez, George Buid, Cris Gadion and Ann Esternon

Metropolitan Theater: Padre Burgos Avenue cor. Arroceros Street, Liwasang Bonifacio (formerly Plaza Lawton), Ermita, Manila (near Mehan Garden and the LRT Central Terminal). Tel/Fax: (02) 8248 3068 or (02) 8527-2192 local 805. Mobile number: 0968 542 8521. E-mail: met.visitorsservices@ncca.gov.ph. Coordinates: 14.5940°N 120.9806°E.

Goldenberg Mansion (City of Manila, Metro Manila)

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The Goldenberg Mansion

Fifth Part of NCCA Heritage Tour

The historic Goldenberg Mansion, a stately 19th-century residence nestled in the heart of Manila, beside the Teus Mansion, stands as a timeless symbol of elegance, boasting a rich historical background.  This beautifully restored ancestral home now serves as a venue for cultural events, art exhibitions, and official receptions. This heritage house’s grand architecture, intricate details, and rich legacy offers a glimpse into the opulence of the colonial era while continuing to play a vibrant role in the country’s contemporary cultural landscape.

Check out “Teus Mansion“

The right side of the mansion

It was built in the 1870s by the affluent Eugsters, a Spanish merchant family who owned the trading company Eugster, Labhart y Cia. It was later purchased by Spanish lawyer, writer, and colonial official (he previously served as the Oidor de la Audiencia or Hearing Officer of the Real Audiencia of Manila) Jose Moreno Lacalle who revamped it, heavily incorporating  Moorish Revival style into the design and infusing elements of his native region of Granada.

Philippine Historical Committee plaque (1957)

Constructed using indigenous materials such as Philippine hardwood, alongside European materials such as pre-fabricated steel from Belgium, Italian marble, and bricks and tiles from Spain, the mansion showcases window sashes using capiz shells, an arcaded veranda, a paved courtyard, and a splashing circular fountain.

A more recent historical plaque

Over the course of the next 53 years, the house underwent several changes in ownership, being leased to various government and military offices. Between 1897 and 1898, it was rented to the Spanish Navy, serving as the residence for Admiral Patricio Montojo, its commanding officer, and housing the exclusive Spanish Navy Club’s headquarters.

The mansion’s interior

After Admiral Montojo’s defeat at the Battle of Manila Bay and the surrender of Manila to the Americans under U.S. Navy Commodore George Dewey, it became the residence of Gen. Arthur MacArthur Jr. (father of Gen. Douglas MacArthur), the battalion commander, until his appointment, in 1900, as Military Governor of the Philippines, after which, he moved to Malacañang Palace. Responsible for maintaining public order of the city of Manila, Gov. MacArthur Jr. established the Metropolitan Police Force of Manila in 1901, with himself as its inaugural chief, and the police force was initially stationed on the mansion’s grounds.

Grand double staircase

The year 1903 marked the mansion’s initial role as a museum when it functioned as the office of the Philippine Preliminary Exposition to the International Exposition in St. Louis, Missouri, exhibiting artifacts before their transfer to the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in 1904. Before shipping the items to the United States, the mansion hosted the first public exhibition of Philippine art, featuring works by Felix Resurreccion-Hidalgo, Fabian dela Rosa as well as Juan Luna’s famous The Blood Compact, which now resides in Malacañang Palace’s collection.

Glass chandelier bordered by intricate wooden fretwork

In 1908, it was the inaugural location of the Philippine School of Commerce (now the Polytechnic University of the Philippines) and, by 1915, the property was acquired by Ricardo Esteban Barretto, whose family established the San Miguel Brewery. On October 16, 1916, it hosted the first session of the Senate of the Philippines. In the 1930s, it also housed the Adamson School of Industrial Chemistry (the present Adamson University main building, in San Marcelino, was inspired by the mansion’s architecture).

Intricate wooden bas-reliefs at the walls

During World War II, it served as the residence of a Japanese general.  After the war, it was converted into the Ye Olde Mansion, a restaurant-nightclub for American troops. In 1950, the mansion was acquired by cosmetic magnate, businessman and philanthropist Michael Goldenberg (1889–1963), an American of French-Jewish descent, who initially arrived in the Philippines as a young boy in 1896 (he personally witnessed the execution of National Hero Jose Rizal in Bagumbayan).

The main hall with checkerboard tile pattern

Amassing his wealth in retail, Goldenberg founded the Goldenberg Department Store situated in Escolta and held exclusive distribution rights, in the Philippines, for distributing Helene Curtis Shampoo Plus Egg beauty products.

Receiving area with wooden parquet flooring

A keen stamp collector and a trailblazer in organized philately in the Philippines, Goldenberg amassed a collection of over 4,000 books, journals, maps, old photographs, pamphlets, and other ephemera on the Philippines and, subsequently, established the Goldenberg Filipiniana Library, a private institution dedicated to the study of Philippine history and culture. As a consequence, the mansion came to be known as the Goldenberg Mansion.

Mansion garden

In 1966, following Goldenberg’s death in 1963, the Goldenberg Mansion was acquired, from his heirs, by First Lady Imelda Marcos  as one of the Marcos mansions. Subsequently, it became the offices of the Marcos Foundation and, after undergoing extensive restoration and renovation of the interiors by National Artist for Architecture Leandro Locsin, served as the office and guest house of the Marcos Foundation and renamed Ang Maharlika.

View looking towards Gen. Solano Street

As a guesthouse, it hosted notable dignitaries such as King Hussein and Queen Alia of Jordan; Prince Juan Carlos and Princess Sofia (later King and Queen) of Spain; Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India; Prime Minister Pierre Elliott Trudeau of Canada; UN Secretary-General Kurt Waldheim; celebrated American pianist Van Cliburn and renowned ballerinas Dame Margot Fonteyn and Alicia Markova.

Sculpture of a reclining nude female figure

After the People Power Revolution of 1986, ownership of the Goldenberg Mansion and other properties within the Malacañang Palace complex transferred to the Government of the Philippines, with restricted public access. From 2022 to 2023, following the initiative of First Lady Liza Araneta Marcos, the Goldenberg Mansion underwent renovation to be made into a cultural center and events space.  A glass house, designed and conceptualized by Jonathan G. Matti (an in-demand interior designer with a background in architecture), was also added on the grounds of the Goldenberg Mansion.  The mansion was reopened to the public as a cultural center and events space.

The Glass House

On May 12, 2023, President Bongbong Marcos issued Executive Order No. 26 to conserve and protect cultural heritage sites around Malacañang Palace, including the Teus Mansion and the Goldenberg Mansion. The supervision of these properties was transferred, from the former Office of the Deputy Executive Secretary for General Administration, to the Social Secretary’s Office.

Interior of Glass House

In April 2023, the Goldenberg Concert Series, part of the “Konsyerto sa Palasyo,” was launched. In March 2024,  Araneta Marcos’ inaugural concert, starring the Manila Symphony Orchestra musicians, was held there. The Series, featuring exceptional Filipino performing artists, especially the youth, was the brainchild of Stella Goldenberg Brimo (daughter of Michael Goldenberg). In April 2024, Indak ng Musika, a piano concert, was performed by alumni of Santa Isabel College’s Conservatory of Music. In the fourth event violinist Adrian Ong and pianist Jet Chong performed for former First Lady Imelda Marcos, and her sister-in-law Irene Marcos-Araneta.

In addition to the Goldenberg Mansion’s library, the mansion housed Imelda Marcos’s extensive art collection and a significant collection of oriental ceramics and artefacts, including Chinese jade furniture, excavated porcelain and pottery, and Ban Chiang pottery from Thailand.

Its interiors features a living room with wood filigree arches and chandeliers; tapestries depicting Diana the Huntress; a “Della Robbia” style mirror (which once belonged to Catherine de Medici); several paintings by the American artist Grandma Moses (forfeited, in 2019, by the Sandiganbayan  in favor of the Government); a 16th-century European devotional altar adorned with ivory figures depicting the life and martyrdom of Catherine of Alexandria; and Persian rugs adorning the floors.

Goldenberg Mansion: 838 Gen. Solano St., San Miguel, Manila. Tel:  (02) 8249 8310 local 8188. E-mail: goldenbergevents@op.gov.ph.  Wensite: www.goldenbergmansion.gov.ph. Open  Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM to 6 PM.  Coordinates: 14°35′30″N 120°59′22″E. 

How to Get There: The mansion can be visited, by the public, upon reservation, via socsec@malacanang.gov.ph.

National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA): NCCA Bldg., 633 General Luna St., Intramuros, Manila, 1002. Tel: (632) 8527-2192. E-mail: info@ncca.gov.ph. Website: www.ncca.gov.ph.

Teus Mansion (City of Manila, Metro Manila)

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Teus Mansion

Fourth Part of NCCA Heritage Tour

The stunning, Spanish-Era, Neo-Gothic-style Teus Mansion (beside the Goldenberg Mansion), preserving the legacy of Philippine leadership by displaying rare portraits and historical memorabilia of the nation’s 17 Philippine presidents (that were previously shown in the Kalayaan Hall Presidential Museum and Library), takes its name from Valentin Teus Yrissari (1832-1909), a Spanish businessman, of Basque descent, from Navarra (at the foot of the Pyreness), who arrived in the Philippines in 1847 at the age of 15.  

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Entrance porch

In 1856, Teus acquired a local distillery in Hagonoy, Bulacan, owned by Elias Menchatorre.  Later, he merged his operations with Ynchausti y Cia, a company supplying equipment and abaca rope (for ship’s rigging) for steamships, which evolved into the renowned Tanduay Distillers. 

Historical plaque

In 1871, Valentin became alcalde primero of the Ayuntamiento (City Council) de Manila and, the following year, was honored as Comendador de la Real Orden de Isabela la Catolica. He later married Teresa Ferrater Ponte (1847 – 1892), the niece of the capitán general. Following Ponte’s demise, Valentin, now 62, married Maria Dolores Menendez Valdes de Cornellana Ferrater, Teresa’s 20-year old niece, at San Miguel Church. They had 4 children: Valentin Jr. (who died young), Concepcion (known as Concha), Valentin III (or Tito), and Dolores (affectionately called Lolin).

Busts of presidents lining the main hall

Initially residing in Binondo, Valentin, in a gesture of affection, surprised Dolores with Teus Mansion in the 1890s, a new residence, in the fashionable arrabal of San Miguel, built on the ruins of an older convent probably destroyed during the 1880 earthquake. He and his family would occupy this residence in Manila but, periodically, every five years, Valentin would journey to Spain. In 1909, Valentin unexpectedly died, leaving Dolores to manage the household and the family affairs. After Dolores’s own demise, the family eventually relocated to Spain by selling their interests there.

Presidential Museum
Presidential staff assistant Mr. Ronnie W. Balastigue touring media guests around the museum

The mansion was inherited by Concepción Teus, the eldest child, who rarely visited it, leaving an old man as caretaker.  The once proud mansion deteriorated.  The kitchen roof fell in and the attic became home to a bat colony. In 1974, Concepción opted to sell the mansion (none of her 7 children and 48 grandchildren were interested) to First Lady Imelda Marcos. In 1975, she engaged British interior designer Ronnie Laing and antique dealer Viring de Asis to renovate the Teus Mansion as a guest residence, becoming one of the Marcos mansions. 

Emilio F. Aguinaldo Exhibit
Manuel L. Quezon Exhibit
Jose P. Laurel Exhibit
Sergio Osmena Exhibit

The former dining room was made into two bedrooms and partitions, in another bedroom, were taken down to create a spacious living-dining area. Bathrooms and closets were cleverly added, their entrances cleverly camouflaged behind aparador (cabinet) fronts. The original downstairs carriageway now serves as an entrance hall. The rest were transformed into 12 bedrooms which, with the existing five upstairs, gave the old home a total of 17 bedrooms.  Notable guests at the Teus Mansion included the Italian-American socialite Cristina Ford, who was close associate of Imelda.

Manuel A. Roxas Exhibit
Elpidio Quirino Exhibit
Carlos P. Garcia Exhibit
Diosdado Macapagal Exhibit

After the People Power Revolution of 1986, the Teus Mansion, and other properties within the Malacañang Palace complex, became possessions of the Government of the Philippines but was left unused and remained closed to the public.

Ferdinand E. Marcos Exhibit
Corazon C. Aquino Exhibit
Joseph E. Estrada Exhibit
Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo Exhibit
Benigno C. Aquino Exhibit
Rodrigo R. Duterte Exhibit

On May 12, 2023, President Bongbong Marcos issued Executive Order No. 26 to conserve and protect cultural heritage sites around Malacañang Palace, including the Teus Mansion. That same year, the Teus Mansion underwent renovations, overseen by First Lady Liza Araneta Marcos, to house collections from the Presidential Museum (formerly located in Kalayaan Hall). The supervision of these properties was transferred to the Social Secretary’s Office from the former Office of the Deputy Executive Secretary for General Administration.

Gallery of First Ladies

The rooms were transformed into galleries exhibiting artifacts, personal belongings, clothing, souvenirs, gifts, photographs, and memorabilia of Philippine Presidents, from Emilio Aguinaldo to Rodrigo Duterte. One or two rooms is devoted to each president,.  Wall text and photographs sustain the main narrative.  Memorabilia from government collections and loans or gifts from presidential families include medals and decorations, commemorative coins, and miscellanea like eyeglasses, a golf club, chess pieces, automobile license plates, a buntal hat and a cap, flyers from long-ago elections, souvenirs of EDSA I, and sculptures like one of President Ramos’ head puffing on a cigar.

Suits of Emilio Aguinaldo and Manuel L. Quezon
Barong tagalog of Jose P. Laurel and suit of Sergio Osmena

The Osmeña Room has a Philippine flag signifying that the Republic was then at war, with the red section above the blue. Barong Tagalog and/or suits of most of the presidents, on mannequins, provide an unintended history of Philippine men’s fashion. The main hall is lined with busts of presidents and there is also a gallery with portraits of First Ladies.

Suits of Manuel A. Roxas and Elpidio Quirino
Casual attire of Ramon Magsaysay and suit of Carlos P. Garcia

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The two-storey façade, with Neo-Gothic windows (flanked by paired and single flat pilasters), on the upper floor, and quadrilateral windows, on the ground floor, features a protruding central section, topped by a triangular pediment (flanked by 8-petalled finials and topped by an acroterion), holding the porte cochere below.  Below the windows are grilled ventanillas. The massive wrought iron gate of the mansion opens up to a stone courtyard with a circular fountain.

Grand piano at the main sala (living room)
The Osmena flag with the red section above the blue signifying that the country was at war.

Teus Mansion: Gen. Solano cor. J. Nepomuceno (formerly Tanduay) Sts., San Miguel, Manila. Tel:  (02) 8249 8310 local 9009. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM to 6 PM. Admission is free.  E-mail: tours_mht@op.gov.ph. Website: www.teusmansion.gov.ph. Coordinates: 14°35′30″N 120°59′22″E.

National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA): NCCA Bldg., 633 General Luna St., Intramuros, Manila, 1002. Tel: (632) 8527-2192. E-mail: info@ncca.gov.ph. Website: www.ncca.gov.ph.

Bahay Ugnayan (City of Manila, Metro Manila)

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Bahay Ugnayan (photo: Ms. Cris Gadion)

Third Part of NCCA Heritage Tour

The Spanish Colonial-period Bahay Ugnayan (Tagalog word for “connection” or “relationship”), formerly a compound for priests, was built around the 1800s though not much is known about it.  Located meters away from the Teus Mansion, it was donated to the government, by the Madrigal family, shortly before World War II, making it one of the first, if not the first, of the mansions outside the Malacañang complex that came into government possession. 

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Grand Staircase

For many years, it served as a government office, for various agencies under the Office of the President (such as the Presidential Complaint Center and the 8888 Citizens’ Complaint Center), until May 12, 2023, when President Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos, Jr. issued Executive Order No. 26 to conserve and protect cultural heritage sites around Malacañang Palace, including the Bahay Ugnayan, Teus Mansion and Goldenberg Mansion. That same year, the mansion underwent renovations, overseen by First Lady Liza Araneta Marcos. 

Check out “Goldenberg Mansion“

Presidential Staff Assistant Mr. Ronnie W. Balastigue (upper left, facing camera) touring media guests around the museum

Bahay Ugnayan, reimagined as a dynamic museum, has been designated as a “changing” museum, which would showcase the life and accomplishments of the current president, in this case that of the “Road to Malacañang” exhibit of Pres. Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos, Jr.. which houses memorabilia from his childhood to his 2022 campaign.

Exhibit of photographs and the president’s childhood toys
The “Road to Malacanang” Exhibit

Items in its carefully curated displays and artifacts include the red Ford F-150 pickup he frequently used during the campaign period; copies of the original documents submitted during his electoral protest against former Vice-President Leni Robredo after the 2016 elections (the Supreme Court junked Mr. Marcos’ electoral protest against Robredo in February 2021) and a piece of barbed wire tied with a yellow ribbon, a prominent symbol during the People Power Revolution that led to the ouster of the President’s father and namesake in 1986.

Exhibit of photographs of father and son and desk name signs

Whoever succeeds Marcos Jr as president in 2028 will be showcased in the Bahay Ugnayan venue by then, while the memorabilia of Marcos Jr. will be moved to the Teus Mansion.  As it stands, the Bahay Ugnayan not only showcases the life of the current president but also serves as a political statement of sorts.

Exhibit of 2022 presidential campaign

Apart from the campaign materials used during the elections, one can find the certifications about Marcos Jr.’s college education (a controversial topic that props up from time to time) as well as a section dedicated to his electoral protest which came about after his loss in the vice-presidential race in 2016.

Ford F-150 Pickup the president used during his 2022 campaign

Bahay Ugnayan: Jose P. Laurel Sr. St., (fronting Gate 2 of the Malacañang Palace), San Miguel, Manila, 1005. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Website: www.bahayugnayan.gov.ph. For private guided tours, please email to arrange separately tours_mht@op.gov.ph.

National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA): NCCA Bldg., 633 General Luna St., Intramuros, Manila, 1002. Tel: (632) 8527-2192. E-mail: info@ncca.gov.ph. Website: www.ncca.gov.ph.

Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park (Kobe, Japan)

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Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park

From Meriken Park, it was a 16.1-km. (30-min. drive) to our second stopover – the exotic atmosphere of Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park.   This 7.8-hectare oceanside city park features large grassy areas with sea and bridge views; a 1,500-pine forest; the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge Exhibition Center (displays showing the history of what is the world’s longest suspension bridge) and several historic houses. The current Maiko Park was opened as the first Hyogo prefectural urban park in 1900.

Check out “Meriken Park”

Akashi Kaikyo Bridge Exhibition Center

There are plenty of things to do and see at the park.  It is the gateway for the 3,911 m. long Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge which is the world’s largest suspension bridge. Linking Hyogo Prefecture (Kobe) with Awaji Island, it also boasts the world’s longest central span at 1,991 meters. At night, the bridge is illuminated with colorful lights.  This stunning sight, for those crossing the strait, has earned it the nickname “Pearl Bridge.”

L-R: Jandy, the author, Grace, Miguel, Mark, Matthew and Nenette

Underneath the bridge is the Maiko Marine Promenade, a viewing facility built in the bridge girder, approximately 47 m. above the sea and 150 m. above the ground, that offers fantastic views of the Seto Inland Sea and Akashi Strait.  An approximately 317 m. long, circuit-style promenade on the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge opened on April 5, 1998, it was constructed on the Kobe side of the bridge as an additional facility. Information materials and a DVD system that explain the bridge are available on the first floor of the promenade. There is an observation camera system which makes you feel like you’re on top of the bridge’s 300-m. high main tower. At the observation lounge, on the 8th floor, you can try an additional thrill – the “log-bridge 47 meters above the sea.”

Akashi Kaikyo Bridge

You can also see and visit three historical buildings.  Other Japanese residences, in Osaka and Kobe, have been gradually disappearing since the Hanshin/Awaji Great Earthquake. The Former Residence of Sanji Muto was built in 1907, during the Meiji period, at Maiko Beach, by businessman (he was president of the Kanebo textile company), journalist and politician (he was an active member of the House of Representatives) Muto Sanji.

After Muto was murdered in 1934 (as part of the fallout of the Teijin Incident), it was used by Kanegabuchi Boseki Co., Ltd. as its social welfare facility, and was called the Kanebo Maiko Club (also known as the Old Kanebo Maiko Club).  However, for the expansion work of National Route 2, it was taken down, in conjunction with the construction of the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, and the Western-style building was relocated to Kariguchidai, Tarumi-ku.

Former Residence of Sanji Muto

In 2007, Kanebo Co., Ltd. donated the building and furnishings to Hyogo Prefecture and, that same year, the prefecture started relocation/restoration work to move the building back to Maiko Park, its original location. In July 2011, it was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property. Now a new tourist attraction representing Maiko Park, visitors can enjoy the scenery, from this Western-style seaside cottage, of the Akashi Strait and the pine forest. Inside, it features preserved Meiji-period furniture and stained glass.

The Former Japanese Residence of the Kinoshita Family is an early modern Japanese home built in the tea ceremony arbor (sukiyazukuri) style. Originally completed as a private residence, in 1941, for a man named Ryosuke Matano, it came into Mr. Kichizaemon Kinoshita’s possession in 1952 and, in 2000, the bereaved family of the late Mr. Kichijiro Kinoshita donated it to Hyogo Prefecture. In December 2001, as it has almost completely retained its appearance since its establishment, it was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property.

Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (Ijokaku)

The iconic Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (Ijokaku), built in 1915 by Wu Jintang (1855-1926), a prosperous Chinese merchant in Kobe, is a cottage with a three-storey octagonal tower (added, as an annex, in 1915) that was shown to the public, in 1984, as Sonchuzan Memorial Hall. It exhibits information materials related to Chinese revolutionary and first president of the Republic of China Sun Yat-sen who was honored with a dinner, hosted by the local Chinese business community, in 1913. On December 10, 1993, tt was registered as a Prefectural Important Tangible Cultural Property and, on November 14, 2001, as a National Important Tangible Cultural Property.

The author, Jandy and Grace

Nearby is monument “Dream Lens,” an iconic photo spot created by a sculptor Keizo Ushio.  It was installed to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the foundation of the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, the embodiment of half a century of technology. The Moebius strip, made of rock with three different types of surface, represents people, nature, and science as well as the main island of Japan, Awaji Island, and Shikoku, which are connected by the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge. These three layers harmonize well, expressing hope for development in the future.

Dream Lens (Keiso Ushio)

Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park: 4-2051 Higashimaikocho, Tarumi-ku, Kobe, Hyogo 655-0047, Japan.  Tel: +81 78-785-5090.

How to Get There: The closest train stations to Maiko Park and the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge are Maiko Station on the JR Sanyo Line and Maikokoen Station on the Sanyo Electric Railway, both just a few hundred meters from the park. The journey is 35 to 45 minutes from Himeji, or 25 minutes from Sannomiya Station in Kobe.

Meriken Park (Kobe, Japan)

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Meriken Park

Our third whole day in Japan was spent on a day tour of Kobe which was just a 37.1-km. (40-min. drive) from Osaka.  Our first stopover was at Meriken Park, a nice waterfront park located in Kobe’s port area.  The park’s name was derived from the word “American,” which was commonly translated as “Meriken” during the Meiji era. Upon arrival, we first had breakfast at a stylish, 2-storey Starbucks outlet, with its ship-inspired design. Opened in 2017, it featured hishibuki (traditional diamond-patterned metal plates meant to evoke the feeling of a ship’s cabin) and offered stunning waterfront views of Kobe Harbor from its large glass walls and second floor outdoor balcony.

Beside the Starbucks store is the Bell of Hortensia, a colorful, modern mosaic sculpture. Installed on June 19, 1990, it represents the Hydrangea macrophylla, Kobe’s official flower.  It was established to commemorate the opening of the first Kobe Fashion Festival in November 1989, which was part of the World Fashion Festival ’89. When it was first installed at the “symbol monument of the fashion city of Kobe,” the bell was rung but, after the Great Hanshin earthquake, which devastated the park, it has not been rung.

Bell of Hortensia
Kobe Maritime Museum

Built on an outcropping of reclaimed land, this waterfront park, a popular spot for locals and tourists, is covered in grassy lawn and open courtyards and is dotted with a collection of modern art installations and fountains. Meriken Park, the location of the Hotel Okura Kobe, Sannomiya Ferry Terminal (where the Jumbo Ferry, connecting Kobe, Shodoshima, and Takamatsu, and the Miyazaki Car Ferry, departs and arrives) and the wave-shaped Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel, is home to some of the city’s more iconic contemporary architecture such as the red Kobe Port Tower and Kobe Maritime Museum.

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel

To the west of the Maritime Museum stands the 108 m. (354 ft.) high Kobe Port Tower, a unique, red-painted steel structure completed in 1963, was designed by the Nikken Sekkei Company to look like a tsuzumi, a Japanese drum. A symbol of the port and the city, it is the first tower built using a pipe lattice.  The tower has a total of 8 layers and is surrounded by 32 red steel staves as a symbol of welcome for vessels returning to the shore. It has five observation decks, approximately 100 m. above ground, including an open-air rooftop deck and a revolving cafe and bar.

Port of Kobe Tower

The “Be Kobe” Monument, installed in 2017 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the opening of Kobe Port, is a popular photo spot.  The phrase “Be Kobe,” introduce in 2015 (the 20th anniversary of the Great Hanshin earthquake), is a civic pride message that expresses the idea that the chrm of Kobe lies in its people, inspired by those who work hard for the city’s recovery.

Be Kobe Sign

Kobe Port was once Japan’s most important departure point for overseas immigrants and the famous Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue (also known as “Set Sail for Hope” or “Memorial Statue of Emigrants Boarding the Emigrant Ship”) honors the thousands of Japanese citizens who emigrated from Kobe Port, for new lives abroad, particularly to Brazil, in the early 20th century.

Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue

Erected in 2001, it also serves as a reminder of the “National Kobe Emigrant Camp” history, where families awaited ships to travel abroad.  This bronze monument, erected in 2001, features a family (two adults and a child gazing out at the sea), symbolizing the departure.  The main statue is titled “Hope’s Departure.” The statue is seen as a bridge connecting Japan and the destination countries of immigrants, symbolizing international exchange and pioneering spirit.

Meriken Theatre Monument

The unique Meriken Theatre Monument, erected in 1987, commemorates Kobe as the location of the first public movie screening in Japan.  A popular photo spot, it was designed to look like a cinema screen and theatre seats. 

Kobe Kaientai Monument

The Kobe Kaientai Monument, a notable abstract sculpture, commemorates the Kobe Kaientai, a historical naval group active at the end of the Edo Period.

Save Northern People (Kaneichi Futakuchi)

“Save Northern People,” a notable abstract, human-shaped bronze sculpture created by sculptor Kaneichi Futakuchi, was a winner of the Port of Kobe Anniversary Commemorative Award.  It is often interpreted as a tribute to those who left Kobe in search of a better life far away.

Sannomiya Ferry Terminal
A ship docked at the harbor

Meriken Park: 2 Hatobacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe-shi, Hyogo-ken, 650-0042.

How to Get There: Meriken Park is about a 10-minute walk south of Motomachi Station, on the JR Kobe Line, or just across the sightseeing cruise terminal from Kobe Harborland.

Umeda Sky Building (Osaka, Japan)

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Kuchu Teien Observatory at Umeda Sky Building

After our tour of Shitennoji Temple and lunch at Marumiya Restaurant, we transported, via van, for 12 kms. (a 30-min. drive) to the 170 m. (557.74 ft) high Umeda Sky Building (Umeda Sukai Biru),  a mixed-use skyscraper with two 40-storey towers (Tower East and Tower West). The tower also has an underground market that attempts to recreate the atmosphere of Osaka in the early 20th century. 

Check out “Shitennoji Temple”

Umeda Sky Building
Wall of Hope (Tadao Ando)

The Umeda Sky Building was designed by Hiroshi Hara, the architect of the Kyoto Station Building, and were constructed by Takenaka Corporation. It was completed in March 1993. In 2008, The Times, a British newspaper, selected the Umeda Sky Building among the “Top 20 Buildings around the World,” recognizing it as an Osaka landmark due to its futuristic, dramatic design. The list also included the Sagrada Familia in Spain, the Taj Mahal of India and the Parthenon of Greece.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy at the Kuchu Teien Observatory

The two towers are interconnected, at the 39th, 40th and roof deck floors, by the famous Kuchu Teien (“Floating Garden”) Observatory.  Elevators cross an open atrium space.  The 35th floor is connected to the 39th floor (the observatory entrance) by see-through escalators covered in a transparent tube. A popular spot to take photos, here we felt like we were standing inside a spaceship.

The see-through escalator

The last stop of the escalator, the 39th floor, is open to the public. It consists of a ticket counter at the 39th floor where, after purchasing a ticket, visitors may enter the indoor observatory deck at the 40th floor and the Sky Walk, an open-air lookout (rooftop).  Sangu (an authentic Chinese restaurant serving lunch and dinner), and Stardust (a bar serving Italian course meals with 300 types of cocktails) are also located on the 39th floor.

The Yodo River
The Osaka skyline

The observatory offers great views of the city through its windows and from its 360° open-air rooftop observation deck where we felt the refreshing breeze, a must-see at least once in any season and at any time of day.  Here, we had views of the skyscrapers in the Umeda area, the Yodo River (the symbol of the city), Odori Park, Susukino, Sapporo Dome and, when the weather is fine, the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world, is also visible. Dusk to evening is said to be the best time to drop by since visitors can enjoy the sunset and night view.

Cafe SKY 40

Cafe SKY 40, at the indoor observation floor (40th floor), features a 35 m. long glass counter, allowing you to enjoy cafe time as if floating in the sky.  It serves coffee, alcoholic beverages, and snacks.

Heart Lock Counter

The one-and-only Heart Lock, a heart-shaped padlock, is especially popular with couples who can choose among ten colors and have their names and date engraved.

Lumi Deck

They can be taken home as a souvenir or can also be placed “Fence of Vows” at the Lumi Deck (rooftop), a sky-high dating spot, or the Chikai no Saku (“Fence of Pledges”) inside the shop. Once shut, the padlock cannot be opened, so it will be a unique memory with someone special.

Heart Locks at Lumi Deck

Umeda Sky Building: Kita Ward, Oyodonaka, 1 Chome−1−88 531-6039 Osaka, Japan. Open daily, 9:30 AM to 10:30 PM (last admission: 10 PM). Tel: +81 6-6440-3855. Admission: 2,000 yen (adults), 500 yen (children, 4 years old to Elementary School). If you have Osaka e-pass, admission is free until 3:00 PM. If you would like to purchase the popular Heart Rock, be sure to purchase your online ticket with Heart Rock in advance.

How to Get There: It is a 7-min. walk from JR Osaka Station and a 9-min. walk from Hankyu Osaka-Umeda Station/ Osaka Metro Umeda Station

Arch of the Centuries (University of Santo Tomas, Manila)

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The Baroque-style Arch of the Centuries, the arched gate at Plaza Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas (UST), is a landmark which symbolizes UST’s role as a “gateway in history to the finest breed of Filipinos.”  It is one of the few relics left from original UST campus in the walled city of Intramuros which was destroyed in 1945 during the Battle of Manila in World War II, leaving the 17th-century campus completely destroyed.  This arch door, called Puerta del Colegio, faced the first Benavides Statue, which was located at Calle Postigo and Calle de Santo Tomas.

The Arch of the Centuries

In 1927, the university transferred here at its present Sampaloc site and the central lower section of the original facade of the first campus in Intramuros (the side facing the UST Main Building), built in 1680, was dismantle, piece by piece, in 1953, under orders of UST rector Jesus Castañon, by Carmelo Flavier Pablo of C.F. Pablo and Son, a precast contractor, and transferred to the present campus, taking a year to complete.  Carmelo Flavier Pablo also did the other half of the current structure (the side facing España Boulevard), a replica of the arch door inaugurated in 1954, as well as the statues, and the bas-relief panels. The arch became formally known as the Arch of the Centuries.

The original facade

On January 25, 2010, , along with the UST Main Building, the UST Central Seminary Building, and the university field, it was declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines. On January 18, 2015, during his visit to the university, Pope Francis passed through the arch.

Check out “UST Main Building”

One of the cultural icons of the University of Santo Tomas, it is often the site of important campus events such as the Thomasian Welcome Walk, UST’s tradition of welcoming the freshmen to the university by passing through the arch. The passing through also signifies the completion of their student life in the university when, after the baccalaureate Mass, the candidates for graduation exit through the arch during a parade.  There is an urban legend that claims prematurely exiting the arch, before graduation, would lead to a student’s debarment.

Jose Rizal commemorative plaque

Commemorative plaques, on its lower pillars, facing España Boulevard, honors two distinguished alumni, Philippine President Manuel L. Quezon (1878-1944), on the right and  José Rizal (1861-1896), on the left. The bronze marker, on the side of the left pier, tells the history of the arch. The words underneath it read, Gateway to the history of the finest breed of Filipinos, a reference to the UST alumni.

Manuel L. Quezon commemorative plaque

The statue of Thomas Aquinas, above the attic storey, portrayed as a young and energetic man seated on a chair (a depiction similar to the painting by Justus van Gent and Pedro Berruguete), was inaugurated on December 21, 1955. Flanking it are two female figures, the one facing west holding a cross, in her right hand, and an admiralty pattern anchor in her left hand while the one facing east holds a torch, in her left hand, while her right arm rests on a winged wheel.

Fountain of Divine Wisdom

These two figures correspond to the Fountain of Divine Wisdom (also called the Fountain of Divine Wisdom) and the Fountain of Human Wisdom (Fountain of Knowledge) that flank the arch. The Fountain of Wisdom, surrounded by four deer and open shells, consists of a barbed, quatrefoil-shaped basin featuring a sculpture of a lady standing on top of a lotus flower (its bowl carried by four phoenixes) while holding a Bible who’s cover depicts the image of the Lamb of God.   The Fountain of Knowledge, surrounded by four owls of Athena and open shells, also features a sculpture of a lady (standing on a cylindrical pedestal adorned by the early disciplines offered in the university) on top of a lotus flower (its bowl carried by four sphinxes) while holding a globe.

Fountain of Knowledge

The main inscription, directly above the arch, is different on both sides. Four bas-relief panels, depicting the life of Thomas Aquinas, flank the main inscriptions.  The southwest panel depicts two angels giving him the girdle of chastity; the southeast panel depicts Thomas Aquinas speaking to an icon of the crucified Christ; the northeast panel depicts Thomas Aquinas and the Eucharist; and the northwest panel depicts Thomas Aquinas taught by Saints Peter and Paul.

Bronze plaque that tells the history of the arch

A coat of arms, below the main inscription, features a double-headed eagle similar to the one used by Charles I, the King of Spain when the Philippines was discovered. The main façade consists of two columns, of the Doric order, on each side of the archway and the spandrels  consists of Baroque reliefs.

Arch of the Centuries: Plaza Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas, Manila.

UST Main Building (University of Santo Tomas, Manila)

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University of Santo Tomas Main Building

The  majestic, 4-storey, Renaissance Revival-style Main Building of the University of Santo Tomas (UST), functioning as the university’s administrative center, is home of the Faculty of Civil Law, Faculty of Pharmacy, the College of Science and the Museum of Arts and Sciences. Designed by Fr. Roque Ruaño, O.P., this building, influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright‘s Imperial Hotel, Tokyo (which survived the Great Kantō earthquake of September 1, 1923 which flattened Tokyo and Yokohama), is the first earthquake-resistant building in the Philippines.

The author with the Main Building in the background

Construction of the building began on 1924 and, before it inauguration on November 12, 1927, the first classes were held there on July 2, 1927. Since then, it has been the focal point of the campus and all succeeding structures revolved around the Main Building.

Historical Research and Markers Committee plaque (1935)

Starting on January 4, 1942, during World War II, the Japanese converted the university into the Santo Tomas Internment Camp for Americans and other non-Filipinos, the internees occupying three floors of the building (465 died there from hunger and malnutrition). On February 3, 1945, during the Battle for Manila the university and its around 4,000 Allied POWs and civilian internees were liberated by the 1st Cavalry Division, tanks from the 44th Tank Battalion and Filipino guerrillas led by Capt. Manuel Colayco (a UST faculty member who died securing the place), the first building in Manila to be liberated.  After the war, UST resumed operation, holding classes in the building.

National Historical Commission plaque (2012)

The university and the building was visited by three popes: Pope Paul VI on November 28, 1970, Pope John Paul II on February 18, 1981 and January 13, 1995 (when UST hosted World Youth Day 1995) and Pope Francis on January 18, 2015 (though he did not enter the building). Queen Sofia of Spain also visited the building on July 6, 2012. On January 25, 2010, the National Museum of the Philippines declared it as a National Cultural Treasure.

Pope Paul IV Papal Visit Plaque

This 86 m. long, 74 m. wide and 51.5 m. (169 ft.) high, rectangular structure, with two patios  (interior courtyards), is actually made up of 40 separate structures independent from one another, with the only opportunity provided by pre-cast stab flooring. There are four corner units, two midsection units (rear and front entrance), one tower (including two elevator cores) and one entrance canopy.  Another 26 units consists of seven units for the Padre Noval Street side, seven units for the Arsenio H. Lacson Avenue (formerly Gov. Forbes) side, six units for the Dapitan Street side, six units for the España Boulevard side, four for the middle section (or paraninfo) and two stair sections adjacent to the tower and elevator core.

Tria Haec

Statues, standing on the pedestals on the fourth floor of the building, symbolize the spiritual and intellectual aspiration of the university. Designed by Italian sculptor Francesco Riccardo Monti, a faculty member of the College of Architecture, they were installed between 1949 and 1953.  The so-called “Tria Haec” (Latin for “These Three”), surrounding the clock, are three statues representing Hope (Spe), Faith (Fides, on top of the clock) and Love (Caritas).

Grand Staircase

To the right of the “Tria Haec” are theologians and historians such as St. Augustine, St. Raymond of Peñafort and Vincent of Beauvais (Dominican monk and writer of Speculum Maius). To their right, facing Padre Noval Street, are the tragedians Pedro Calderón de la Barca, Sophocles and William Shakespeare, while to the left are the philosophers Aristotle, Saint Albert the Great and Plato.  To the left of the philosophers, facing Arsenio Lacson Avenue, are the playwrights Lope de Vega, Aristophanes and Molière.

First two panels of History of the University of Santo Tomas Mural (Antonio Garcia Llamas)
Third and fourth panel of History of the University of Santo Tomas Mural (Antonio Garcia Llamas)

At the ground floor lobby is the four-panel mural “The History of the University of Santo Tomas,” painted by Antonio Garcia Llamas between 1952 and 1954.  It depicts significant milestones of the university including its declaration as a Pontifical University on September 17, 1902 by Pope Leo XIII and the advent of co-education.  At the second floor staircase are paintings by Filipino masters Galo Ocampo and Carlos “Botong” Francisco.

The Foundation of the University of Santo Tomas by Archbishop Benavides (Domingo Celis)

Main Building: University of Santo Tomas (UST), España, Sampaloc, Manila. Coordinates: 14°36′37″N 120°59′21″E.

Sun Plaza Sapa (Vietnam)

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Sun Plaza Sapa

Come morning of our second day in Sapa, after breakfast at Bora Hotel, we walked along Cau May Walking Street, towards Sapa Square and the stunning, instantly recognizable four-storey Sun Plaza Sapa, a shopping and entertainment complex and the essential hub and crucial starting point for our visit to Mount Fansipan, the “Rooftop of Indochina” as it houses, at the first floor, the ticket office for the iconic Muong Hoa funicular.  Offering a unique way to travel through the clouds while taking in breathtaking views of the stunning mountain scenery, the train has a classic design and luxury vibe.

Check out “Cau May Walking Street” and “Sapa Square“

The Muong Hoa Funicular

The building, in itself, is a must-see spot in the heart of the beautiful town of Sapa. Sun Plaza Sapa is a place with great views, a shopping center and dining options, including a bar, at the first, second and third floors, and a parking area at the ground floor.

The clock tower

Designed in a grand, classic, luxurious and beautiful French-style architecture (by architect Bill Bensley of the international architectural firm Chapman Taylor) that brings a touch of Europe to the Sapa mountains, it was built by Sun Group and completed in late 2018.

L-R (front row): Des, Grace, Lourdes, Lorraine. L-R (Back row): Jandy and the author

The building, with its striking yellow and green façade, also features large glass windows, which create a bright and inviting atmosphere, especially at night. The clock tower at the entrance, one of the main attractions and a symbol at Sun Plaza Sapa, attracts many visitors for photos.  Inspired by the famous Big Ben clock tower in the United Kingdom, it has three large clocks with a round, lantern-like design.

The circular central hall

Upon stepping into the large circular hall of Sun Plaza Sapa, its floor decorated with motifs such as centrally located bronze drums, we felt like we were entering a European royal palace or a castle without leaving Vietnam.  Showcasing unique French-style of architecture with an interesting Vietnamese touch, its delicate interiors features a dome, large columns, stunning lights, grand corridors with intricately decorated walls, elegant glass doors, European-style lamps, arches, and metal railings.

The funicular ticket office

The symmetrical design adds to the elegance, and the delicately painted artwork on the ceiling in the main lobby, with flowers and leaves, along with bright, sparkling light beams, is particularly eye-catching. This place is a perfect spot offering countless beautiful spots to snap amazing, Instagram-worthy photos.

The dome with its delicately painted artwork on the ceiling

Shopping is a must at here as this shopping center is full of fashion (shoes, clothing, bags, cosmetics, etc.), local souvenirs, and regional specialties, ranging from budget-friendly to luxury items. As a food paradise, it offers delicious European dishes, prepared by professional chefs, to make your dining experience unforgettable. There are also cozy cafés and eateries, including a Starbucks.

Passing by the Starbucks on the left

De la Coupole Sapa – MGaller, a luxury 5-star hotel inside Sun Plaza known for its elegance and charm, offers a unique, unforgettable experience, with 249 stunning and creatively designed rooms inspired by local Northwest culture and French and Indochinese design. A perfect spot for a special and relaxing getaway, the hotel also has restaurants, bars, a spa, and event spaces.  

Passing the Highlands Coffee shop on the right

Absinthe, a cafe on the 10th floor, next to Sun Plaza, with French design and art creating a cozy vibe, is a great spot to relax and the perfect place to sit down for a coffee either inside, to enjoy the blended artistic interior space and French fashion style, or outside to take in the beauty of Sapa, enjoying nature and the amazing views of Sapa’s majestic mountains and forests hidden in the flying clouds.

Stairway with intricately designed metal railings

Sun Plaza Sapa: 1 Ng. Cau May, Sa Pa Town, Sa Pa, Lao Cai.  Tel: +84 948 309 999. Open daily, 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Website: www.sunworld.vn.