Category Archives: Spanish-Era Structures

Church of St. Charles Borromeo (Mahatao, Batanes)

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Church of St. Charles Borromeo

From Maydangeb White Beach, we traveled the remaining 2.4 kms. (a 5-min. drive), to Mahatao town proper, making a stopover at the town’s Spanish-era Church of St. Charles Borromeo.

Check out “Maydangeb White Beach”

The church complex

The first church, made with light material and completed by Dominican friars in 1789, was destroyed by a strong typhoon in 1872 and the present structure was rebuilt, with stone and lime, in 1873 by Father Crescencio Polo, OP (who also remodeled the stone and mortar convent attached to the church).

Plaque installed by National Historical Institute in 2008

On September 19, 1898, during the Philippine Revolution, the flag of the Katipunan was raised in the campanille and the church was ransacked (the original gold Episcopal crosier of the image of San Carlos as well as the gold jewelry pieces of the Lady of the Rosary and the Santo Niño were stolen).

Plaque installed by National Commission for Culture and the Arts in June 2005

In the 20th century, the cogon roof was replaced with galvanized iron and, sometime in 1990, the choir was removed.  On July 31, 2001, the church was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines.

The church’s interior

It has an espadaña-style façade similar to Basco Cathedral and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer in Sabtang, with two round arches at roof levels for the bells (one of which is dated 1874).  The outer walls have uneven wall thicknesses due to the addition of massive step buttresses that serve as stairways for servicing its then cogon-covered roof.

Check out “Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception” and “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

The main altar

The church’s Baroque style interiors showcases floral designs with sunburst ornaments painted in polychrome and gilt, lending a golden glow among the statuary. On the center of the main retablo is the statue of St. Charles Borromeo (the patron saint) surrounded by statues of St. Joseph, St. Dominic de Guzman and St. Rose of Lima.

Right side altar housing statue of Our Lady of the Rosary

Two side altars house the statue of the Our Lady of the Rosary, on the right, and of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on the left.

Left side altar housing statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

The second floor of the church convent, on the right side of the façade, is not the typical volada (cantilevered gallery) for convents in the Philippines but an open extended deck. At the back of the convent are remains of an old circular well.

The church’s convent

Within the church’s courtyard is a stone structure that once housed the beatario.  Elsewhere in the courtyard and the elementary school are Spanish-era stone lampposts said to have been used as guiding lights to guide fishermen and early mariners safely to the anchorage just beyond the town’s seaport.

One of two Spanish-era stone lampposts

Church of St. Charles Borromeo: National Road, Brgy. Uvoy (Poblacion), Mahatao, 3901 Batanes. Mobile number: (0921) 766-2282. Feast of St. Charles Borromeo:  November 4.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Banza Church Ruins (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

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Banza Church Ruins.  On the left is the mighty Agusan River, the third longest in the country

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From the Butuan Regional Museum, a 6.6km. (15-min.) drive brought us to the Banza Church Ruins, the oldest stone church ruins in Mindanao.  Getting there was very difficult, for first time visitors like us, as there are hardly any signs to point us in the right direction.

Check out “Butuan Regional Museum”

The balete tree enclosing the ruins of the church bell tower

This church, built by Augustinian Recollect friars beside the Agusan River (the third longest river in the country and the widest and most navigable in Mindanao) in 1625, was reputedly one of the most beautiful stone churches in the region.

The author and son Jandy beside the balete tree

However, in 1753, Moro pirates burned it down. Although the old church was rebuilt, it succumbed to decay and disuse when, in 1865, the town center was ordered transferred, by Surigao Province Gov. Manuel Boscasa, from Maug (Banza) to Baug (Magallanes).

Opening in the balete tree where you can see the interior wall of the bell tower

What is left of its former beauty is a bell tower engulfed inside a giant banyan (Ficus benjamina, locally called balete) tree.  From a small opening on the side of the tree, you can take a peek at the ruins and see its coralstone wall.

The steeple-like kiosk with pyramidal roof and balustrade

The ceiling of the kiosk

The steeple-like kiosk, with its pyramidal roof and balustrade, besides it houses a marble marker (its upper right hand corner chipped off) narrating the history of the place.  The place is a great spot to view the mighty 349 km. long Agusan River and to watch the sunset.

The slightly damaged marble historical plaque

Banza Church Ruins: Lilo, Brgy. Banza, 8600 Butuan City.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  Located 6.8 kms. (a 15-20 min. drive) from the city center, from the main highway, travel 2.5 kms. then take the track on the left. After 500 m., veer left again.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Church of St. Michael the Archangel (Bacoor City, Cavite)

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Church of St. Michael the Archangel

The original church, in one of the oldest parishes in Cavite (established as a separate parish, from Kawit, on January 18, 1752), was made from wood, stone, bamboo and nipa in 1669 and used to face Bacoor Bay.

The church’s Baroque facade

In October 1762, due to its strategic location, the church and convent was destroyed by the British on their way to occupy Cavite Puerto (now Cavite City).  In 1774, it was rebuilt in stone and, from 1788 to 1820, Fr. Domingo Sevilla Pilapil rebuilt the church in stone and mortar, adding the retablo, bell tower and patio.

Plaza Gomes

After the June 3, 1863 Manila earthquake, the church was reoriented inland (to prevent entry of sea water during high tides),  rebuilt, and enlarged with adobe, from 1863 to 1870, by parish priest (from June 2, 1824 to 1872) Fr. Mariano Gomes delos Angeles (of GOMBURZA fame) and Architect Felix Rojas (who later designed the Neo-Gothic Church of Sto. Domingo in Intramuros, Manila).  In 1872, after Fr. Gomes’ execution on February 17, the administration of the church was turned over to the Augustinian Recollect Fr. Juan Gomez.

The church’s three-storey bell tower

The National Historical Commission plaque installed in 2022

On May 31, 1898, during the Philippine Revolution, revolutionaries raised the Philippine flag on the bell tower.  After the revolution, the church was returned to the secular clergy. 

Important Cultural Property Marker

The present structure is what remained of this once longest church in Cavite, which once measured 20 brazas (33.4 m.) long and 5.5 brazas (9.9 m.) wide), after a third of the church was destroyed, on June 13, 1899, during the Philippine-American War.

The church interior

The choir loft area

On December 28, 2020, the church, as well as the nearby Cuenca House, were declared as an Important Cultural Properties by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, National Historical Commission of the Philippines, and the National Museum of the Philippines.

The main altar

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church’s Baroque façade has a segmental arch main entrance (topped by a segmental arch statued niche), flanked by coupled flat pilasters, with Doric capitals and urn-like finials, and narrow, semicircular arched windows.  The triangular pediment has a centrally located, semicircular arch niche with a statue of St. Michael the Archangel.

The three-storey bell tower, on the church’s right, has a square base with coupled flat pilasters (also topped by Doric capitals) and a segmental arch open and blind (where the “Simbahan ng Bacoor” plaque is mounted) windows.  The upper two storeys, in receding planes, are octagonal, with blind and open, semicircular arch windows.

Inside is a narrow nave, exposed roof trusses with no ceiling, a main altar and two side altars.  Along the walls are burial niches.

One of the burial niches along the walls

In 2021, a historical marker and a bust of Fr. Mariano Gomes was installed front of the church convent, built in 1843 by Fr. Gomes.

The convent on the church’s left

The Padre Mariano Gomes Marker

Church of St. Michael the Archangel: Gen. E. Evangelista St., Poblacion, 4102 Bacoor City, Cavite.Tel: (046) 436-0456, 434-5679 (office) and 434-6466 (rectory). E-mail: sanmiguelbacoor@gmail.com.  Feast of St. Michael the Archangel: May 12.

How to Get There: Bacoor City is located 24.5 kms. (a one-hour drive) from Manila and 26.5 kms. (a one-hour drive) from Trece Martires City.  The church, right in front of the city’s Hall of Justice and Justice B. Ocampo Park, is located near the City Hall.

St. Ferdinand Parish Church (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

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St. Ferdinand Parish Church

The St. Ferdinand Parish Proto-Cathedral, one of the oldest churches in Isabela, is located beside St. Ferdinand College and Rizal Park.  The present foundations of the present church was built, from 1696 to 1700, by Fr. Miguel Matos, O.P.,  as a mamposteria and brick church.

In 1777, the solid belfry (existing up to present) was started by Fr. Pedro de San Pedro, O.P., and finished, in 1783, by Fr. Joaquin Sancho, O.P.. In 1786, the bell of the church was forged.  On December 20, 1803, the church became the final resting place of Nueva Segovia Bishop Agustin Pedro Blaquer, OSA, who died in Ilagan on December 19, 1803 after he got sick during his visit to Cauayan. He was interred at the Epistle side of the church.

Old photo of the church probably showing the 1930 facade (St. Ferdinand Official Facebook account)

In 1829, Fr. Luis Garcia, O.P., constructed the sacristy  of ladrillo and finished in 1833. The 1866 typhoon destroyed the church dome and Fr. Pablo Almazan, O.P., demolished major portions of the church’s solid walls in order to build a bigger one.  In 1892, Fr. Isidro Martinena, O.P., established a campo santo (cemetery) in Barangay Santo Tomas, located outside of Ilagan poblacion.

Another old photo of the church, probably showing the 1960s renovation as the buttresses are now more prominent and entrance and stained glass windows have been modified. (photo: hiSTORYA)

The present façade and major parts of the church were constructed in the 1930s. It was renovated in the 1960s. The bell tower, sanctuary, sacristy, parish hall and the old campo santo are the remaining traces of the Spanish-era church.

The present Baroque facade. The buttresses  are now rounded and the stained glass windows and blind arches have also been modified.

During a recent renovation, the ladrillo details of the sanctuary, the Epistle side and Gospel side of the church were once again revealed after the cement were chipped-off.  The ladrillo fence of the campo santo could still be recognized.

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The church’s single level Baroque façade has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by massive circular buttresses (in turn topped by urn-like finials) and semicircular blind arches (with two smaller semicircular arches within).

Above  the main entrance is a corbelled cornice with a blind semicircular arch enclosing three (one big flanked by two small) semicircular arch stained glass windows.  The triangular pediment, with broken curves along the top, has a centrally located blind rose window.

On the church’s left is the original four-storey square bell tower.  It has narrow semicircular windows, paired Solomonic columns (topped by urn-like finials) at the corners and is topped by a pyramidal roof. 

 

In 1973, the church became the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan, a suffragan diocese (founded on January 31, 1979) of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Tuguegarao. However, in 2003, the diocese was transferred to the new Cathedral Church (and Bishops’ Residence) in Barangay Upi, in Gamu, Isabela.  In 2013, the present cathedral was placed under the patronage of St. Michael the Archangel. Despite the transfer, both city and diocese still remain under the patronage of St. Ferdinand III of Castile, whose feast day is celebrated on May 30. At present, the centuries-old structure is designated as a proto-cathedral by the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan.

The 4-storey bell tower is all that remained of the original Spanish-era church

On October 29, 2023, a mass was held for the celebration of the first Holy Rosary Festival wherein the pilgrim image of the St. Ferdinand Parish – Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary was episcopally crowned by Most Rev. David William V. Antonio, D.D., STHD., bishop of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan.

The April 22, 2024 fire that engulfed the church (photo: Rappler)

On April 22, 2024, Monday, at around 11:40 AM, a devastating fire started from the roof of the church while workers were installing steel trusses on the church’s ceiling,  It was extinguished after an hour but most of its interior was destroyed. The final investigation report of the Bureau of Fire Protection (BFP) identified the total cost of the damages is estimated to be around P35-40 million which include antique religious items among others. The Department of Public Works and Highways (DPWH) and Ilagan City Engineering Office conducted a series of tests and studies which revealed that only around 20-30% of the structural integrity of the church remained after the fire took down most of its interior.

The burnt out interior of the church (photo: Philippine News Agency)

Just days after the fire that destroyed the proto-cathedral, the City Government of Ilagan, in coordination with the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan, were able to put up a temporary altar and steel benches covered with aluminum roofing sheets and steel trusses in the church-front courtyard (often referred by locals as the Family Park). Since April 28, 2024, while the clearing and restoration of the church is still ongoing, all regular masses of the parish were temporarily being held, by parish priest Fr. Ric-Zeus Angobang (he became parish priest in August 2023), in the make-shift altar.

St. Ferdinand Parish Church: Centro Poblacion, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 624-2467.  Mobile number: (0997) 068-9967.

City Tourism Office: 2/F, City Hall Bldg., 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 624-1511. E-mail: tourism@cityofilagan.gov.ph.

City of Ilagan Tourist Information and Assistance Center: Bonifacio Park, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 324-7769.  E-mail: ilaganinfocenter@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com.

How to Get There: The City of Ilagan is located 429.3 kms. (an 8-hour drive) from Manila and 35.5 kms. (a 1-hour drive) from Cauayan City.

Museo de San Luis (Cauayan City, Isabela)

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Museo de San Luis

The Museo de San Luis, inaugurated last October 9, 2022, is housed in a one-storey, wooden structure with a wrap-around porch, within the Hacienda San Luis Eco-Tourism Park.  It showcases how tobaccos were made for the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade.

 Check out “Hacienda San Luis Eco-Tourism Park” 

Museum porch

Museum interior. At the center is a manual, iron tobacco bale press used in 1970

On display here is a huge sculpture of St. Louis Bertrand (San Luis  Bertran), a photo gallery of Cauayan’s 27 mayors, from 1900 to the present; a traditional wooden press for cigar making (people use the apparatus to flatten the dried tobacco leaves); wooden relief carvings of Cauayan’s indigenous people, male and female (Gaddangs, Ibanags, Yogads and Itaois) mounted on easels; a manual tobacco bale press used in 1970; a butaka (a chair with long armrests); a tobacco hogshead (a large wooden barrel used to store and transport tobacco); and framed La Flor de la Isabela posters mounted on the walls.

Statue of St. Louis Bertrand (1526-1581; Luis Beltrán). He was a Spanish Dominican priest who preached in South America during the 16th century, and is known as the “Apostle of the Americas.”

Traditional wooden press for cigar making and a tobacco hogshead

Diorama of Cauayan – The Ideal City of the North in the New Millenium

Also mounted on two glass display cases are the different kinds of cigars produced – Coronas, Corona Large, Double Robusto, Panatelas, Half Coronas, Native Coronas with Head, Higantes Double Head Small, Triple Rebusto Long, Imperiales, Higantes Double Head Long, Cortados, Higantes and Panatelas Largas.

The handcrafted butaka, usually measuring 70 cms. x 57 cms. x 118 cms. and made of narra hardwood, has long armrests that weren’t really meant for arms; they were used for legs. During the Spanish era, it was commonly called the “lazy chair” of rich families. After a day’s work in the fields, hacienderos sat on the butaka as their resting chair. It was also used as a home style birthing bed, the rests passing for the more modern stirrups we have now at birthing hospitals. The chair’s style is Luis Quince-style sillon peresoza, common among lounging chairs found in Spanish Colonial Era in the Philippines. The seat is double caned ovate-shaped back with scroll arms with extended armrest on slightly curved stumps.

Different kinds of cigars produced

Wooden relief carving of an Itaois male and female

At the center of the rooms are five dioramas, in glass showcases, depicting the history and growth of Cauayan – Calanusian – Ang Unang Cauayan, Cauayan – Isang Bayan sa Lalawigan ng Isabela, La Flor de Isabela, Cauayan sa Panahon ng Commonwealth and Cauayan – The Ideal City of the North in the New Millenium.

 

La Flor de Isabela posters

Museo San Luis: Hacienda de San Luis Eco-Tourism Park,  Brgy. San Luis, Cauayan City.  Tel: (078) 652-2017.  Mobile numbers: (0905) 390-1255 and (0926) 204-4429.  Open daily, 7 AM – 8 PM.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com. 

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com. 

How to Get There: Cauayan City is located 394.8 kms. (a 7.5-hour drive) from Manila and 35.5 kms. (a 45-min. drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina (Metro Manila)

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Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina

The over two century old Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina, formerly the old Kapitan Moy building, was constructed in 1780 by Don Jose Guevarra whose family owns “Asyenda Tyason.” Andres Bonifacio of the Katipunan once visited the place and, in 1901, the American soldiers made it a camp.

National Historical Commission plaque installed in 1970

Once owned by Don Laureano “Kapitan Moy” Guevarra (July 4, 1851 – December 30, 1891), recognized as the father of the shoe industry in the Philippines (he also served as capitan municipal in the former municipality), the first pair of shoes in Marikina was designed and made in 1887.

Don Laureano “Kapitan Moy” Guevarra

Doña Teresa dela Paz, a haciendera, then bought the house of Kapitan Moy to serve the needs of the marginal sector of the community, converting it into a home of needy residents of Marikina. Doña Teresa then presented the dwelling to his brother-in-law Don Jose Espiritu who transformed it into a primary school from 1907 to 1955.

Interior

When the Americans occupied the Philippines, the building also served as the house of the American tribunal. From 1942 to 1945, when the Japanese came over, it became the Japanese Imperial Army’s headquarters.

In 1968, it was also declared as a National Shrine by the municipal council and NHCP.  On April 16, 1970, the building was commemorated with a cast-iron plaque marker and listed as a Historic Site and Structure by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) for being the Unang Pagawaan ng Sapatos sa Marikina or the First Shoe Workshop in Marikina.

Galeria

It is also recognized as a Cultural Property of the Philippines by the National Commission on Culture and the Arts, National Historical Commission of the Philippines, and the National Museum of the Philippines.

Cafe Kapitan Restaurant

On April 16, 1986, the building was declared as the Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina (Cultural Center of Marikina) by the Marikina local government. On September 14, 2018, the building was damaged by a tornado , a day before Typhoon Mangkhut (Ompong) struck Cagayan Valley, disrupting the wedding reception held at the building.

Cafe Kapitan Restaurant

Inside this building can be found Doll Museum, Marikina City’s museum, a diorama showcasing the events and history of Marikina. It also houses two restaurants (Café Kapitan Restaurant and Kusina ni Kambal).

Exterior stairs leading to the second floor

At the Café Kapitan Restaurant is an old well which serves as a décor and a wishing well to customers at the ground floor and is also a venue for seminars, conventions and other events.

Bulwagang Bayani

The fully airconditioned Bulwagang Bayani, located on the second floor, can accommodate 400 to 450 guests. The Plaza Kapitan may also be rented for different occasions.

The author at Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina

Sentrong Pangkultura ng Marikina: 323 J.P. Rizal St.,1800  Marikina City, Metro Manila.

The Ancestral Houses of Juban (Sorsogon)

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Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After breakfast and checking out of Residencia del Hamor in Casiguran, we again boarded our coaster for the 56.4-km. (one-hour, 15-min.) drive to Matnog Port. Along the way, we passed by the town of Juban and made a short stopover as we saw some well-preserved ancestral houses along the highway. The old bahay na bato (“stone houses”) of Juban were once the residences of some of the town’s richest families – the Bendillos, Guevaras, Grajos, Alindogans, Guarins, Lasalas and Gorospes.

Casa Feliz

One such structure that still exists is Casa Feliz. Built in 1898, the first owner of the house was Don Leoncio Grajo who was gifted this house by his father when he passed the bar exams in the early 1900s.  Leoncio was elected the First Representative of Sorsogon in the Philippine Assembly of 1912. One of the most beautiful old houses in Juban, it became Don Leoncio’s district office during his incumbency.

Casa Feliz

After his death, his son, Leoncio Grajo Jr., inherited the house. However, to pursue his career in Manila, the young Leoncio had to sell the place to his sister Lourdes Grajo Hubilla. As she grew old, Lourdes decided to transfer ownership of the house to Dr. Teresita Lasala-Ruth, a neighbor.

Lasala-Guarin Ancestral House

With the help of National Historical Commission of the Philippines, she really spent so much effort to restore this once almost dilapidated ancestral house. The restoration took over a year.  It was named after Dr. Teresita’s mother, Felicidad.  Jesus N. Lasala is the current owner of Casa Feliz.  The house was converted into a bed and breakfast with eight rooms.   Casa Feliz has annexes –Ann’s Garden (a function hall) and Café Jeronimo (a bar and restaurant), located a block near the old house.

Casa Feliz is not the only ancestral houses we saw along the highway in Juban. There are 3 more old houses nearby but these ancestral houses are private and do not accept guests.

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

Like most bahay na bato, the foundations of these two-storey, gaily painted houses are made from Spanish-style, solid stone blocks or bricks where the overhanging wooden upper-storey rests on. The exteriors typically have exquisite and tall capiz shell or persiana sliding windows, double eaves supported by diagonal brackets, ventanillas (small shuttered windows below the large windows with wooden balustrades),wooden moldings on the walls and calado (lace-like fretwork or latticework).

Today, the threat of demolition hangs over their heads to make way for the road widening project of the Department of Public Works and Highway’s (DPWH).

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

These old houses, one of the well known tourist attractions of the province, are rich historical and cultural heritage sites in the idyllic town of Juban that are considered priceless gems that can never be replaced by road widening and progress. In lieu of the road widening, the solution I suggest is a bypass or diversion road be built a few kilometers before the town proper on vast tracts of idle or unproductive land that can be acquired, at a minimal cost, by the provincial government.

These ancestral houses should also registered as Presumed Important Cultural Properties under the Philippine Registry of Cultural Property.  For the time being, the provincial government can install their own plaques recognizing them as a Provincial Cultural Treasure.  These houses have survived World War II and natural calamities such as typhoons, volcanic eruptions and earthquakes. Let’s hope they survive the wrecking ball.

Casa Feliz: Pan-Philippine Highway cor. L. Grajo St., AH26, South Poblacion,  Juban, 4703 Sorsogon. Mobile number: (0919) 991-2297. Website: www.casafeliz.org.

How to Get There: Juban is located 545.3 kms. (a 13–hr. ) drive from Manila and 30.6 kms. (a 40-min.) drive from Sorsogon City, all via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Juban Municipal Tourism, Cuture and Arts Office: E-mail: jubanturismo@gmail.com.  www.jubansorsogon.com.ph. Facebook: www.facebook.com/JubanTurismo 

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Barcelona Ruins Park (Sorsogon)

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Barcelona Ruins Park

Part of the Sorsogon Countryside Tour

Across the road from the Church of St. Joseph the Worker, built along the shoreline of the Pacific Ocean, is the Barcelona Ruins Park.  Located here are the ruins of a school building (for children of wealthy “illustrados”), at te southeastern tip of the park, and the prominent, two storey “La Presidencia,” at the northwestern tip of the park.

Check out “Church of St. Joseph the Worker”

Ruins of the Presidencia

Also within the park is a modern, solar-powered lighthouse (erected in 1994 through a grant from the British government) and a “Barcelona SORSOGON” sign, a trend among towns, cities and landmarks this decade. A great place to relax and view the bay for the locals, at some of its areas, there’s free WiFi connection.

Built in 1874, the nearly century and a half La Presidencia was the seat of the Spanish Colonial-era gobernadorcillo (“little governor”). Massive in size, this structure also doubled as a watchtower and fortress against Moro pirate attack.

In the event of a retreat from the attacks, there was originally an underground tunnel leading to the aforementioned church but was closed to prevent thieves from accessing religious relics in the church.

The solar-powered lighthouse

During the Japanese Occupation in World War II, it was used by the Japanese as a garrison.  After the war, it was again used as the seat of the municipal government.

The park sea wall

However, a series of typhoons, ripped the building’s roof and the building was abandoned.  Today, it is a historical landmark of the town.

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

The feeling of mystery makes vegetation in ruins more appealing and enjoyable to visitors but it is a known fact that vegetation causes physical damage and deterioration to standing structures in archaeological sites and monuments thereby increasing the risk of collapse and danger to those underneath.  I suggest removal of such greenery.

A new Spanish-inspired, two-storey municipal hall building was built in 2020.

The new Barcelona Municipal Hall

Barcelona Ruins Park: Poblacion Central, Barcelona, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Barcelona is located 548.5 kms. (an 11.25-hour drive) from Manila and 27 kms. southeast of Sorsogon City.  From Sorsogon City, take a jeepney to Gubat then transfer to another jeepney at Barcelona.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Barcelona Municipal Tourism Office: mobile numbers (0908) 927-6481 and (0917) 348-7084.

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.

Church of St. Joseph the Worker (Barcelona, Sorsogon)

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Church of St. Joseph the Worker

Part of the Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After breakfast at Residencia del Hamor in Casiguran, we all boarded our coaster for the short 13.5-km. (20-min.) drive to the adjoining town of Barcelona.  Along the highway, we made a stopover at the fortress-like Church of St. Joseph the Worker.

The Baroque-style facade

Also known as Barcelona Church, the church was built in 1874 (during the term of Gobernadorcillo Juan Evasco) by Franciscan friars on a coral foundation.

The author at Barcelona Church

One of the oldest, most beautiful and well-preserved churches in the Bicol Region, it also has 1.5-meter thick walls made of hand-hewned anapog patched together by beaten egg whites mixed with lime and tuba (coconut wine).

Bas-relief indicating the year “1874”

From the church, an underground tunnel once lead to the town’s Spanish-era presidencia , across the street at the Barcelona Ruins Park, but it was closed to prevent thieves from accessing religious relics in the church.  Beside the church is Curia, a coffee shop.

Check out “Barcelona Ruins Park” 

The church’s historical plaque

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The Baroque two-level façade has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by fluted pilasters and semicircular arched niches.

The second level has a statued niche, above which is a triangular pediment (above which is a square central bell tower flanked by a balustrade) with a centrally located oculus, flanked by circular windows.  Attention is focused on the central segment because of its advancing mass.

The church’s modern interior

The church has undergone several restoration works, the most recent being last May 2019. The church’s modern interior has beautiful stained glass windows and ceiling paintings,

The main altar area

Church of St. Joseph the Worker: Poblacion Central, Barcelona, Sorsogon. Feast of St. Joseph the Worker: May 19.

How to Get There: Barcelona is located 548.5 kms. (an 11.25-hour drive) from Manila and 27 kms. southeast of Sorsogon City.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Barcelona Municipal Tourism Office: mobile numbers (0908) 927-6481 and (0917) 348-7084.

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins (Pilar Sorsogon)

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Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

A few minutes hike from Casa Almei Beach Resort are the Ruins of the Astillero de Panlatuan.  Astilleros are Spanish-era shipyards used for construction and repair of the galleons that plied the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade. The towns of Donsol and Pilar, both sheltered from typhoons and having extensive coasts dotted by bays, coves and major rivers that are navigable, were the location of several shipyards. An extensive mangrove surrounds them, making it a safe haven for boats and people.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins

The astillero at Donsol (probably used as a construction, repair and smelting site) was established at the mouth of a river while the astillero at Pilar was established on a cove. When the important astillero on Bagatao Island in Magallanes was destroyed by Moro pirates, it was transferred to Panlatuan Bay after the Galleon Trade ended in 1650.

A portion of the fence built with cobble stones, with imported broken glass on the top for added protection

The revolution in Sorsogon was ignited  by the abuse and exploitation of the Panlatuan shipyard workers by their Spanish masters.  On August 5, 1898, desperate workers of the astillero rose in arms and raided the homes of four Spaniards residing in the barrio, slaying them with machetes.

Another stone structure on the site

The two astilleros of Pilar are separated by bodies of waters. The Binanuahan Astillero (probably the administrative site), at the Pilar Peninsula, is more inland while the Panlatuan Astillero (probably the construction and smelting site), located on a cove, is nearer the sea.  The deep waters, two rivers, an extensive mangrove, a vast flatland and a hill of the latter made it a favorable choice for an astillero.

The Panlatuan astillero has the best preserved features of the three.  Remains of large (approximately 30-40 cm. in diameter), equidistantly buried wooden posts, seen during low tide (only 30 cms. Can be seen), are associated with the presence of a pier and are arranged either parallel or perpendicular to each other.

Travel agents listen as our guide narrates the history of the site

The remains of a big gate, ruins of watchtowers and a warehouse were also documented during archaeological surveys and excavations done in the 1990s. Two old deep wells on the site, built with adobe tuff, are still being used by the owners.

One of several deep water wells on the site

The stone structures had thick walls made with riverine stones, adobe tuff and lime mortar; a roof with earthenware tiles and big windows and door frames. The watchtower used riverine cobble stones while the fence enclosing the astillero used cobble stones with imported broken glass on the top for added protection.

A ceramic shard recovered from the site

Corroded iron nails, chain rings, bronze sheathing nails, iron tools, a porthole window, Chinese, European and local ceramic shards (I was given one recovered on the site), brick tiles and Spanish coins were recovered on this site. A large slag concentration, pointing to smelting activities in the past, was also found on the northeastern side.

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

Since the Panlatuan astillero was part of a series of events that resulted in the rapid spread of revolutionary activities in Sorsogon it, in my opinion, deserves to be declared a National Historical Site by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines, with a historical plaque installed.  The site should also be rehabilitated and restored.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins: Panlatunan, 4714 Pilar, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Pilar is located 495.2 kms. (a 12-hr. drive  via Pan Philippine Highway/AH26) from Manila and 57.7 kms. (a 1-hr. drive via Central Nautical Highway and Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26) from Sorsogon City.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Pilar Municipal Tourism Office: E-mail: pilarsor.tourism@gmail.com.  Mobile number: (0948) 955-7727.

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.