Arashiyama Bamboo Forest (Kyoto, Japan)

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

On our last full day in Japan, we were to do a whole day tour Kyoto. Our first destination was the stunning Arashiyama Bamboo Forest which was 61.6-km. (over an hour’s drive) from our hotel. Also called the Sangano Bamboo Grove, is a 16 sq. km. (6.2 sq. mi.), natural bamboo forest  consisting mostly of mōsō bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis).

Brushwood fencing (koshibagaki)

Upon arrival, we made stops at the small Nonomiya Shrine and the Sogenchi Garden of the famous Tenryū-ji Temple. Brushwood fencing (koshibagaki), made from spicebush, are found along the paths through the bamboo forest.

Check out “Nonomiya Shrine” and “Sogenchi Garden”

Nonomiya Shrine

The towering bamboo forest is an almost shocking contrast to the urbanity surrounding it. Growing tall on the edges of Kyoto, the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, a once tranquil nature spot, is now a series of tourist-packed wooden pathways that weave through the dense thicket of tall bamboo stalks that reach dozens of feet into the sky, creating a canopy.

Sogenchi Garden in Tenryu-ji Temple

However, if you can escape the sounds of camera shutters and boorish visitors, you can still hear the rustling of the leaves; bending, creaking, and swaying of the wood and trunks knocking together as the wind passes through the tightly packed plants, creating a peaceful sound like almost nothing else.

If you can find a time to visit the bamboo forest, when it is relatively empty, the combination of visual beauty and auditory calm can be one of a kind. There is no word, however, on how the place smells.

The author and Grace

When the hordes of tourists aren’t drowning it out, the meditative natural noise is so lovely. In fact, Japan’s Ministry of the Environment has designated the location’s aural pleasures as one of the country’s governmentally-recognized “100 Soundscapes  of Japan,” an initiative designed to encourage the local population to get out and appreciate the country’s acoustic wonders.

Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple

Along the way, we also passed by the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, a historic burial ground featuring over 8,000 stone statues (rakan) and monuments, representing forgotten or lost souls, surrounded by a peaceful, less crowded bamboo forest. 

Sagano Scenic Railway

At the end of the forest, we also came across the stunning station of the Sagano Scenic Railway (also dubbed the “Sagano Romantic Train”), a retro-style steam train, with open-air carriages, which takes passengers on a 7.3-km./25-min. journey along the scenic Huzu River Gorge.  

Jinrikisha (Japanese Rickshaw)

Along exclusive, quieter pathways (closed to general pedestrians), we saw passengers on board jinrikishas (Japanese rickshaws) pulled by personal guides, a luxurious, crowd-dodging alternative to walking.

North of Arashiyama is the quirky, small but serene Mikami-jinja Shrine, a highly specialized landmark tucked away near the Sagano area. Built in 1961 by a Kyoto barber, it is the only shrine in Japan dedicated specifically to hair styling, beauty (cosmetics, hair washes, hair growth products, wigs, etc.) and hair health. It is dedicated to Fujiwara Uneme no Suke Masayuki, a historical Kamakura-period (1192 – 1333) hairdresser credited as the founder of the barbering profession in Japan. Their ema (wooden votive tablets) and charms are designed in the shape of a comb.

Mikami Shrine

A highly popular stop for those in the beauty industry or anyone seeking remedies for hair loss and damage, visitors here can opt to have a small lock of hair cut by a priest and offered in a special bag at the shrine’s “hair mound” to pray for hair health. In front of the shrine is Ogura Pond which is famous for its lotus flowers.

Cherry blossoms in bloom along the Ogura-ike Pond

We got a welcome respite from the crowds of the nearby Bamboo Forest by making a left at the T-junction at the top of the hill and soon find ourselves at Kamayama-keon Park. As we arrived during the sakura (cherry blossom) period (late March and early April), the trees were in full bloom. Too bad we couldn’t make our way uphill and to the west as we could’ve seen some fine views down to the Hozu-gawa River and across Kyoto. Troops of wild monkeys are said to occasionally patrol the park.

Kamayama-keon Park

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest: Sagaogurayama Tabuchiyamacho, Ukyo Ward, Arashiyama District, Kyoto, 616-8394 Japan. Tel: +81 75-343-0548. Prior to 2015, there was a charge to access the forest. Coordinates: 35°00′34″N 135°40′00″E.

How to Get There: The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is situated northwest of Kyoto, near the Tenryū-ji temple and the Nonomiya Shrine. It is only 30 minutes or so from Kyoto city center.

Nara Park (Nara, Japan)

Nara Park

Our fourth full day in Japan was to be spent on a whole day tour of Nara, a 32-km. (35-min.) drive from Osaka.  Our first stopover was to be Nara Park (Nara Kōen), a public park at the foot of Mount Wakakusa , designated as one of the “Places of Scenic Beauty” by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology (MEXT). One of the oldest parks in Japan, it was established in 1880.

The park, under the administrative control of Nara Prefecture, is known for its over 1,200 wild, freely roaming sika deer (shika) around in the park that are also under designation of MEXT and classified as Natural Treasures. The sika deer were considered divine and sacred by both Kasuga Grand Shrine and Kōfuku-ji.

L-R: Mark, the author, Matthew, Nenette, Jandy, Grace and Miguel at Nara Park

According to local folklore,  Takemikazuchi, one of the four gods of Kasuga Grand Shrine, received an invitation from Kashima Shrine (in present-day Ibaraki Prefecture) and he was said to, and appeared on Mount Mikasa (also known as Mount Wakakusa) riding a white deer. From that point, killing one of these sacred deer was a capital offense up until 1637, the last recorded date of a breach of that law.

The author, Miguel and Jandy feeding the deer

While the official size of the park is about 502 hectares (1,240 acres), defined by the Urban Park Act in 1960, the surrounding  area including the grounds of the Nara National Museum and Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, which are either on the edge or surrounded by Nara Park, is as large as 660 hectares (1,600 acres).

Deer engaged in territorial behavior by bumping heads

Within the 660-hectare area are World Heritage Sites (Tōdai-jiKōfuku-jiKasuga Grand Shrine and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest), registered under the title Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara, as well as 47 buildings and 374 arts and crafts (mainly consisting of Buddhist statues and religious arts and crafts) designated as National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties found in the grounds of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines such as Todai-ji, Kofuku-ji, Kasuga Grand Shrine, ShōsōinShin-Yakushi-jiGangō-ji, and others; designated by the Japanese government.

Check out “Kofuku-ji Temple” and “Todai-ji Temple”

One of 1,700 cherry blossom trees in the park

The Kasugayama Primeval Forest is also designated as a Special Natural Monument (Tokubetsu Tennen Kinenbutsu), while the sika deer, the habitat of the Panchala ganesa butterfly, the Nageia nagi tree forest of Kasuga Grand Shrine, and the Prunus verecunda “Antiqua” tree of Chisokuin are designated as Natural Monuments (Tennen Kinenbutsu).

Japanese Evergreen Oak (Ichiigashi)

Aside from sika deer, the other wild animals that inhabit the park include  wild boarJapanese raccoon dogsJapanese giant flying squirrels and Japanese squirrels, among others. The vegetation consists of pine trees (matsu, some reported to be over 1,000 years old), roughly 1,700 cherry blossom trees (including shidarezakura weeping varieties), camphor trees (kusu), maple trees (momiji), plum treesJapanese cedar (sugi) and Japanese pieris, among others.

Jinrikisha (Japanese Rickshaw)

For centuries, the Nara deer have coexisted with the city’s inhabitants, and now, the multitude of travelers coming, from far and wide, to take their picture-perfect selfies with them. Any visit to Nara Park is never complete without frolicking amongst, and feeding its herds of four-legged creatures. The deer are known for bowing their heads to tourists to request specially sold, registered shika-senbei (“deer-crackers”), at 200¥ per pack, which are exclusively sold by the WNOW company.

These bows are learned (not instinctual) gestures to get food and deer can be highly opportunistic, using bows as an “implied threat” for food.  The experience can unnerving for others who flee in terror as a dozen more of them surround them in search of their own treats. They can also be aggressive, biting, chasing, or head-butting visitors for crackers.

Nara Park: 469 Zoshicho, Nara, 630-8501, Japan. Tel: +81 742-22-0375. Coordinates: 34.685°N 135.85°E

How to Get There: Nara Park is serviced by the Kintetsu Nara Station (a 5-min. walk) and is reachable by the Kintetsu Line from Osaka-Namba Station.

Nunobiki Herb Garden (Kobe, Japan)

Nunobiki Herb Garden

After touring the Ikuta Jinja Shrine and lunch at Yakiniku Like, we proceed to our final Kobe destination which was Nunobiki Herb Garden (Nunobiki Hābu-en), a big 40-acre botanical herb garden (Japan’s largest) located on the 931 m. high Mount Rokkō

Sanroku (Bottom) Station

Built in 1991, it grows over 75,000 herbs (200 varieties) and flowers blooming year-round. To get there we were driven just 1.2 kms. (a 5-min. drive) to the Sanroku (Bottom) Station. 

Check out “Ikuta Jinja Shrine

Nunobiki Ropeway

Here, we boarded a cable car for the 10-min. ride to Nunobiki Herb Garden, with sweeping panoramic views of the Kobe city skyline, the 43 m. tall Nunobiki Falls, the surrounding Rokko Mountain Range, Seto Inland Sea and previews of the gardens below. 

The author, Grace and Jandy inside the gondola
View of Mount Rokko and the Kobe city skyline

Upon arrival at the Sancho (Top) Station, the upper terminal point for the cable car, we then proceeded to the View Rest House, located at an altitude of 400 m., where we were welcomed with many charming garden vignettes with sculptures, sitting areas, carts and flower beds. 

View Rest House

Modeled after the ancient Wartburg Castle in Eisenach, Germany, it has a large gift shop (offering herbal products, essential oils, herb-themed everyday utility items and souvenirs) and a dining option (The Herb Dining) plus access to sweeping outdoor terraces where you can enjoy your meals. There were a few stalls selling burgers, tarts , drinks and soft serve ice cream. We all indulged at the latter. The patio dining area was lined with theme carts (cookery, craft, tea and fragrance).

Herbal Market
The Veranda

The gorgeous Welcome Garden (View Plaza) is surrounded by a castle gate and the View Rest House. Herbs and flowers are in bloom throughout the four seasons.

Welcome Garden
Tulips in full bloom

Nearby is the Mori no Hall, a small, wooden concert hall with great acoustics and a popular vernue for concerts and recitals.

Mori no Hall (Concert Hall)

At the Fragrance Museum, at the ground floor, the historical aspects of fragrance are displayed and explained. Here, you can experience the scent of different natural essential oils.

Fragrance Museum

Fragrant Garden, set against the backdrop of a serene mountain range, this idyllic garden is reminiscent of the European countryside. When strolling along the stone path, visitors will be enveloped by a gentle mint aroma.

Fragrance Garden
View Plaza

At the back of the hall, after the Clock Tower, is the Rose Symphony Garden, a central area with approximately 60 types of fragrant roses (mainly English roses), of assorted colors and shapes that change according to each variety, and other flowers.

Clock tower
Rose Symphony Garden

Instead of taking the cable car all the way back to the Sanroku (Bottom Station, we decided to walk downhill, from the summit, all the way to Kaze no Oka Mid Station, passing through twisting pathways and its 12 distinct, extensive, seasonally-themed areas while enjoying aromatic and scenic views. 

Herb Museum

The first themed area we passed was the Herb Museum.  Like a living encyclopedia, it has around 100 varieties of herbs.  Here, we learned about the attributes of herbs, how to use them and living with herbs. There is a guided tour of the garden every day.

Kitchen Garden Potager

Further down is the Kitchen Garden “Potager,” a kitchen garden that features the mixed planting of vegetables and herbs. Its theme is a “stylish and practical kitchen garden” that you can also enjoy at your own home.

Glass House

From here, a pathway leads down to the Glass House which features a spice museum, a herbal foot bath (behind the Glass House), café lounge, terraced restaurant (The Veranda, offering herb-infused treats) and tropical, fragrant, and citrus-themed plants, including a special, illuminated “rose garden.”

Wall Mural Flower Bed

It provides visitors with the pleasure of planting, observing and smelling the scents of mainly tropical plants such as spices and fruits (guavas, bananas, passion fruit, papayas, etc.) grown in a climate-controlled environment. Also within this garden is a sculpture entitled “Statue of Mother and Child” presented by the Italian city of Terni, as well as a colorful wall mural flower bed.

Lavender Garden

The Lavender Garden, ever enticing with its refreshing fragrance and lovely lavender flowers (which is known as the “Queen of Herbs”), holds a lavender-picking event every June. 

The author, Grace and Jandy at the Four Seasons Garden

At the Four Seasons Garden, specially designed with pretty herbs and flowers arranged according to season, you can get a sense of each season by the roses and other flowers in full bloom covering the area.

Waterfall Patio

The Waterfall Patio, a waterside zone based on the image of Nunobiki Falls, has a tiered flower bed that continues on to the garden below as an expression of the flow of water from the waterfall. The waterside is inhabited by a variety of living things.  Egg-laying, by the forest green tree frog, a precious species, can be observed during the rainy season.

Oriental Garden

The Oriental Garden cultivates useful plants (plants for use in foods, medicine and craftworks) indigenous to Japan and Asia. The garden also provides observation and learning that includes the methods of using each plant.

The Kaze no Oka Flower Garden, at the southern end of the garden, features colorful seasonal flowers and herbs spread across the hill. The garden is situated in a perfect location that offers views of the Kobe landscape. The Lily Garden, which blooms in summer, offers visitors the chance to enjoy the fragrance of lilies. 

Fruit Garden

The Fruit Garden bears a variety of well-known fruits such as citrus, kiwi, pineapple guava, apples to exotic fruits.

Kaze no Oka Mid Station

At the lower end of the garden, near the Kaze no Oka Mid Station, is a Recreation Area with hammocks, gift shop, play equipment (free to use) and the “White Constellation,” a wind sculpture, by Japanese sculptor Susumu Shingu, installed in 1991. Planted with mountain cherry blossoms and lilies, it also has a superb view of Kobe.

White Constellation (Susumo Shingu, 1991)

Nunobiki Herb Garden : 1 Chome-4-3 Kitanocho, Chuo-ku Ward, Kobe, Hyogo Prefecture 650-0002 Japan. Tel: +81 78-271-1160.  Website: www.kobeherb.com. Open daily, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission: 2,000 yen/adult (admission ticket + round trip ropeway).  Coordinates: 34°42′55″N 135°11′32″E.

How to Get There: The garden is accessed via a scenic 5-minute Shin-Kobe Ropeway gondola lift from Shin-Kobe station in downtown Kobe.

Meriken Park (Kobe, Japan)

Meriken Park

Our third whole day in Japan was spent on a day tour of Kobe which was just a 37.1-km. (40-min. drive) from Osaka.  Our first stopover was at Meriken Park, a nice waterfront park located in Kobe’s port area.  The park’s name was derived from the word “American,” which was commonly translated as “Meriken” during the Meiji era. Upon arrival, we first had breakfast at a stylish, 2-storey Starbucks outlet, with its ship-inspired design. Opened in 2017, it featured hishibuki (traditional diamond-patterned metal plates meant to evoke the feeling of a ship’s cabin) and offered stunning waterfront views of Kobe Harbor from its large glass walls and second floor outdoor balcony.

Beside the Starbucks store is the Bell of Hortensia, a colorful, modern mosaic sculpture. Installed on June 19, 1990, it represents the Hydrangea macrophylla, Kobe’s official flower.  It was established to commemorate the opening of the first Kobe Fashion Festival in November 1989, which was part of the World Fashion Festival ’89. When it was first installed at the “symbol monument of the fashion city of Kobe,” the bell was rung but, after the Great Hanshin earthquake, which devastated the park, it has not been rung.

Bell of Hortensia
Kobe Maritime Museum

Built on an outcropping of reclaimed land, this waterfront park, a popular spot for locals and tourists, is covered in grassy lawn and open courtyards and is dotted with a collection of modern art installations and fountains. Meriken Park, the location of the Hotel Okura Kobe, Sannomiya Ferry Terminal (where the Jumbo Ferry, connecting Kobe, Shodoshima, and Takamatsu, and the Miyazaki Car Ferry, departs and arrives) and the wave-shaped Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel, is home to some of the city’s more iconic contemporary architecture such as the red Kobe Port Tower and Kobe Maritime Museum.

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel

To the west of the Maritime Museum stands the 108 m. (354 ft.) high Kobe Port Tower, a unique, red-painted steel structure completed in 1963, was designed by the Nikken Sekkei Company to look like a tsuzumi, a Japanese drum. A symbol of the port and the city, it is the first tower built using a pipe lattice.  The tower has a total of 8 layers and is surrounded by 32 red steel staves as a symbol of welcome for vessels returning to the shore. It has five observation decks, approximately 100 m. above ground, including an open-air rooftop deck and a revolving cafe and bar.

Port of Kobe Tower

The “Be Kobe” Monument, installed in 2017 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the opening of Kobe Port, is a popular photo spot.  The phrase “Be Kobe,” introduce in 2015 (the 20th anniversary of the Great Hanshin earthquake), is a civic pride message that expresses the idea that the chrm of Kobe lies in its people, inspired by those who work hard for the city’s recovery.

Be Kobe Sign

Kobe Port was once Japan’s most important departure point for overseas immigrants and the famous Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue (also known as “Set Sail for Hope” or “Memorial Statue of Emigrants Boarding the Emigrant Ship”) honors the thousands of Japanese citizens who emigrated from Kobe Port, for new lives abroad, particularly to Brazil, in the early 20th century.

Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue

Erected in 2001, it also serves as a reminder of the “National Kobe Emigrant Camp” history, where families awaited ships to travel abroad.  This bronze monument, erected in 2001, features a family (two adults and a child gazing out at the sea), symbolizing the departure.  The main statue is titled “Hope’s Departure.” The statue is seen as a bridge connecting Japan and the destination countries of immigrants, symbolizing international exchange and pioneering spirit.

Meriken Theatre Monument

The unique Meriken Theatre Monument, erected in 1987, commemorates Kobe as the location of the first public movie screening in Japan.  A popular photo spot, it was designed to look like a cinema screen and theatre seats. 

Kobe Kaientai Monument

The Kobe Kaientai Monument, a notable abstract sculpture, commemorates the Kobe Kaientai, a historical naval group active at the end of the Edo Period.

Save Northern People (Kaneichi Futakuchi)

“Save Northern People,” a notable abstract, human-shaped bronze sculpture created by sculptor Kaneichi Futakuchi, was a winner of the Port of Kobe Anniversary Commemorative Award.  It is often interpreted as a tribute to those who left Kobe in search of a better life far away.

Sannomiya Ferry Terminal
A ship docked at the harbor

Meriken Park: 2 Hatobacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe-shi, Hyogo-ken, 650-0042.

How to Get There: Meriken Park is about a 10-minute walk south of Motomachi Station, on the JR Kobe Line, or just across the sightseeing cruise terminal from Kobe Harborland.

teamLab Botanical Garden (Osaka, Japan)

teamLab Botanical Garden

After our Tempozan Ferris Wheel ride and early dinner at Tempozan Harbor Village, we again boarded our van for 19-km. (25-min.) drive to experience the new interactive outdoor art exhibit of teamLab, an international art collective, at the 240,000 sq. m. Nagai Botanical Garden, an outdoor botanical garden in Nagai Park that opened in 1974.

Taking the light show out of the hustle and bustle of the city streets and into a more natural setting, teamLab aims to explore an environment where human perception expands from the artwork itself to the environment. Their stunning, immersive nighttime installation transformed the natural landscape into an interactive digital canvas.

From our drop-off point, it was still a long walk to the entrance. Nestled among the forests and fields of the botanical garden were a variety of illuminated exhibits, ranging in size and scope from subtle illuminations embedded in the grass to completely awe-inspiring radiant pillars that dance in the wind and reach into the sky. Once we entered the grounds, it felt like we were transported to a world, miles away from Osaka. Deep, meditative music filled the air as we walked through the wide pathway flanked by towering bald cypress trees.

The Resonating Trees Exhibit

While subtle at first, we began to notice that the lights illuminating the trees rose and fell in brightness, depending on your proximity to them. This is our first hint that this was more than just a walk in the garden—we were a part of the exhibit. We didn’t find any velvet ropes or “do not touch” signs here.  Instead, we were encouraged to see how our interactions, within this unique “ecosystem,” would influence our surroundings.

As we walked through the garden of The Resonating Trees Exhibit, the trees shone brightly. When we passed close by, the trees changed color and emitted a unique musical tone. This wave of light and sound continuously spred outward to the surrounding trees. If light approached from a distance, it signified the presence of other people or wildlife, turning the ecosystem into an active canvas. Because the artwork interacted directly with nature, the display shifted in response to the wind, rain, and the natural seasonal changes of the trees.

Sculptures of Dissipative Birds in the Wind

Rounding a corner, we saw The Sculptures of Dissipative Birds in the Wind installation, widely considered the signature and most spectacular open-air piece of the permanent exhibition.  It brings the invisible forces of nature—the wind and the physical flight of the birds—to life. Standing tall, on the edge of the lake, looking not unlike Van Gogh’s Starry Night coming to life here in Japan, the flowing swirls of color react to the flight paths of any passing birds that live in Nagai Park, further adding to the layers of interactivity throughout the gardens.

Lines and swirling patterns of bright, shifting light (in vibrant gradations of red, blue, green, and yellow) trace flight paths across the night sky and the installation’s structures. Because it reacts continuously in real time to actual wind speeds and the movement of the ecosystem, no two movements are ever exactly the same. Every second of the display is completely unique.  

Resonating Microcosms in the Common Camellia Garden Exhibit

Continuing along the pathway, through the trees, and the sights continued to change with the landscape at The Resonating Microcosms in the Common Camellia Garden Exhibit. Small, waist-high glowing eggs fill the forest around the camelia garden, which foreshadows the absolutely overwhelming mass of 10 ft. tall orbs in the eucalyptus garden. During the day, their mirrored surfaces reflect the surrounding environment but, after sunset, they come alive.  

Getting lost amongst these luminous ovoid sculptures was a highlight for us, putting a smile on our face.  As we walked among them or when the wind blew, the ovoids react, glowing in up to 61 distinct colors and emitting unique sounds. When we pushed one ovoid or when it responded to its surroundings, it echoed out to the neighboring ovoids, creating a continuous, rippling wave of light and sound throughout the entire garden.

Forest of Autonomous Resonating Life – Eucalyptus

At the Forest of Autonomous Resonating Life Exhibit, the densely packed, standing ovoids of light are autonomous. When an ovoid was pushed over, by people moving through or blown down by the wind, it rose back up as the color of its light changed and emitted a tone specific to that color.

The author

The surrounding ovoids responded one after another, continuously changing to the same color and emitting the same tone. When the wind was not blowing and the people nearby were not interacting with the ovoids, their lights began to blink slowly.

Floating Resonating Lamps on Oike Lake

At the Floating Resonating Lamps on Oike Lake – Fire Exhibit, each of the lamps on the Oike Lake’s surface floated autonomously. When we stood still near a lamp, or when the wind blew a lamp, it shone brightly and produced a tone.

The light of that lamp spred to nearby lamps, one by one, as they resonated with the same tone, continuing on to the trees on the islet in the center of the lake. If light approached from the other side, it signified the presence of people there, making them more aware of the existence of others in the same space. When the wind was not blowing and people were not nearby, the lamps began to blink slowly.

Pillars That Dance with the Wind

At the Pillars That Dance with the Wind Exhibit, the installation challenged the traditional notion that human structures must be solid and stable (like concrete). Instead, the pillars were soft, flexible, and defined entirely by their environment. The pillars changed in number, movement, and height based on the wind, rain, and humidity. They also interacted dynamically with visitors who walked near or touched them, creating patterns that were never repeated. Because the artwork relied so heavily on real-time environmental data, strong winds or heavy rain could cause the installation to be temporarily closed for safety.

teamLab Botanical Garden: Nagai Park, 1-23 Nagaikoen, Higashisumiyoshi-ku Ward, Osaka. Nighttime only; hours vary by season (usually opens from dusk, roughly 7 PM to 7:30 PM, until 9:30 PM with last entry at 8:30 PM). Admission: ~¥2,000 to ¥2,200 for adults (prices can fluctuate slightly depending on peak or off-peak seasons), with discounts available for students and children. Tel: 06-6699-5120. Website: teamlab.art/e/botanicalgarden/

How to Get There: Take the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line to Nagai Station, a 10-min. walk on the Midosuji subway line. Take exit 3 and walk east through Nagai park to access the admission gates. From Exit 1 or 2, it is a brief 10 to 15-minute walk into Nagai Park to reach the botanical garden entrance. Via the JR Railway, it can also be reached via the JR Nagai Station, a 12-min. walk, on the JR Hanwa line (take the East Exit and walk east through Nagai park to access the admission gates).  Via the Kintetsu Railway, it is 15-min. walk from Harinakano Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka line. Take the West Exit and walk through Nagai park to access the admission gates.

Tempozan Ferris Wheel (Osaka, Japan)

Tempozan Ferris Wheel

After admiring the Osaka skyline from the Kuchu Keien Observatory at the Umeda Sky Building, we had some free time to explore the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan (one of the largest aquariums in the world), a 13.9-km./20-min. drive away but, as we arrived late, we decided to try out the nearby Tempozan Ferris Wheel.

Check out “Umeda Sky Building

Ticket Office

After paying the admission fee, we boarded two of its 60 airconditioned gondolas (three are barrier-free, allowing wheelchair users to board directly, while 8 gondolas have seats and floors that are see-through, giving you a 360° view of the scenery around your feet). During the ride, commentary is provided in both Japanese and English.

Boarding our gondola

This 112 m. tall (367 ft.)  Ferris wheel  has a height of 112.5 m. (369 ft.) and diameter of 100 m. (330 ft.). Opened to the public on July 12, 1997, it was then the tallest Ferris wheel in the world.  During our fantastic, 17-minute aerial journey, we were offered a view of Osaka Bay and surrounding areas, including Mount Ikoma to the east, Akashi Kaikyō Bridge to the west, Kansai International Airport to the south, and the Rokko Mountains to the north.

The author, Grace, Nenette and Miguel

The wheel has colored LED lights, another popular attraction, that provide a weather forecast for the next day. Orange lights indicate a sunny day, green lights a cloudy day and blue lights indicate rain. Illuminating Osaka Port, they have now become one of Osaka’s nighttime attractions.

The Osaka skyline
Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan

Tempozan Ferris Wheel: 1-1-10 Kaigan-dori, Minato-ku, Tempozan Harbor Village, Osaka-shi, 552-0022, Japan. Tel: +81 6-6576-6222. Open daily, 10 AM-10 PM (last entry 9:30 PM). Admission: JPY900 per person (3 years old and above). Coordinates: 34°40′N 135°26′E.

How to Get There: It’s about a 5-minute walk from Osakako Station on Osaka Metro Chuo Line.

Umeda Sky Building (Osaka, Japan)

Kuchu Teien Observatory at Umeda Sky Building

After our tour of Shitennoji Temple and lunch at Marumiya Restaurant, we transported, via van, for 12 kms. (a 30-min. drive) to the 170 m. (557.74 ft) high Umeda Sky Building (Umeda Sukai Biru),  a mixed-use skyscraper with two 40-storey towers (Tower East and Tower West). The tower also has an underground market that attempts to recreate the atmosphere of Osaka in the early 20th century. 

Check out “Shitenno-ji Temple

Umeda Sky Building
Wall of Hope (Tadao Ando)

The Umeda Sky Building was designed by Hiroshi Hara, the architect of the Kyoto Station Building, and were constructed by Takenaka Corporation. It was completed in March 1993. In 2008, The Times, a British newspaper, selected the Umeda Sky Building among the “Top 20 Buildings around the World,” recognizing it as an Osaka landmark due to its futuristic, dramatic design. The list also included the Sagrada Familia in Spain, the Taj Mahal of India and the Parthenon of Greece.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy at the Kuchu Teien Observatory

The two towers are interconnected, at the 39th, 40th and roof deck floors, by the famous Kuchu Teien (“Floating Garden”) Observatory.  Elevators cross an open atrium space.  The 35th floor is connected to the 39th floor (the observatory entrance) by see-through escalators covered in a transparent tube. A popular spot to take photos, here we felt like we were standing inside a spaceship.

The see-through escalator

The last stop of the escalator, the 39th floor, is open to the public. It consists of a ticket counter at the 39th floor where, after purchasing a ticket, visitors may enter the indoor observatory deck at the 40th floor and the Sky Walk, an open-air lookout (rooftop).  Sangu (an authentic Chinese restaurant serving lunch and dinner), and Stardust (a bar serving Italian course meals with 300 types of cocktails) are also located on the 39th floor.

The Yodo River
The Osaka skyline

The observatory offers great views of the city through its windows and from its 360° open-air rooftop observation deck where we felt the refreshing breeze, a must-see at least once in any season and at any time of day.  Here, we had views of the skyscrapers in the Umeda area, the Yodo River (the symbol of the city), Odori Park, Susukino, Sapporo Dome and, when the weather is fine, the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world, is also visible. Dusk to evening is said to be the best time to drop by since visitors can enjoy the sunset and night view.

Cafe SKY 40

Cafe SKY 40, at the indoor observation floor (40th floor), features a 35 m. long glass counter, allowing you to enjoy cafe time as if floating in the sky.  It serves coffee, alcoholic beverages, and snacks.

Heart Lock Counter

The one-and-only Heart Lock, a heart-shaped padlock, is especially popular with couples who can choose among ten colors and have their names and date engraved.

Lumi Deck

They can be taken home as a souvenir or can also be placed “Fence of Vows” at the Lumi Deck (rooftop), a sky-high dating spot, or the Chikai no Saku (“Fence of Pledges”) inside the shop. Once shut, the padlock cannot be opened, so it will be a unique memory with someone special.

Heart Locks at Lumi Deck

Umeda Sky Building: Kita Ward, Oyodonaka, 1 Chome−1−88 531-6039 OsakaJapan. Open daily, 9:30 AM to 10:30 PM (last admission: 10 PM). Tel: +81 6-6440-3855. Admission: 2,000 yen (adults), 500 yen (children, 4 years old to Elementary School). If you have Osaka e-pass, admission is free until 3:00 PM. If you would like to purchase the popular Heart Rock, be sure to purchase your online ticket with Heart Rock in advance.

How to Get There: It is a 7-min. walk from JR Osaka Station and a 9-min. walk from Hankyu Osaka-Umeda Station/ Osaka Metro Umeda Station

Osaka Castle Park (Osaka, Japan)

Osaka Castle Park

On our second whole day in Japan, we began our Osaka city tour with a stopover at 105.6-hectare (about 260 acres) Osaka Castle Park (known as Osakajo-koen in Japanese), a public urban park and historical site opened to the public in 1931.  The second largest park in the city, it lies on the south of the Ōkawa (Kyū-Yodo River) and occupies a large area in the center of the city of Osaka. It was well worth a visit, even if we didn’t intend to enter the castle. 

Osaka Castle

Forming the most attractive part of Osaka, here we can also view and enjoy seasonal flowers such as plum blossoms, 3,000 cherry blossoms (we arrived at the last week of March) and azaleas. This green and spacious expanse, built around the awe-inspiring tower of Osaka Castle (known as Osaka-jo in Japanese, the present castle is a concrete reconstruction that was finished in 1995), provided a pleasant escape from the otherwise crowded and concrete expanses of the rest of the city. 

Cherry blossoms

The castle grounds, which cover approximately 61,000 sq. m. (15 acres), contains 13 structures, around the 55 m. high main central tower, that were denoted as “Important Cultural Assets” by the Japanese government. They are Otemon Gate, Sakura-mon Gate, Ichiban-yagura Turret, Inui-yagura Turret, Rokuban-yagura Turret, Sengan Turret, Tamon Turret, Kinmeisui Well, Kinzo Storehouse and the Enshogura Gunpowder Magazine.

The author, Grace, Mark, Miguel, Nenette, Matthew and Jandy at Osaka Castle Park
The author, Jandy and Grace

Surrounding the main keep are a series of moats and defensive fortifications. The castle has an inner and an outer moat. The former, lying within the castle grounds, consists of two types: wet (northern-easterly) and dry (south-westerly), while the latter surrounds the entire castle, denoting its outer limits, and consists of four water-filled sections, each representing a cardinal direction (North, East, South, West).

Castle moat

Aoyamon Gate, in the northeast, and Ote-mon Gate, in the opposing southwest, are two main sentry checkpoints at the outer moat. Three sections of ‘dobei’ mud-and-plaster wall, all located around the Otemon Gate, all have their own Important Cultural Property status.

Otemon Gate

There are also some megaliths, with no cultural property status, at the castle, including the Takoishi (Octopus stone). The Fushimi-yagura Turret Remains, Ensho-gura Gunpowder Storehouse, Osaka Geihinkan, Hoshoan Tea House, Osaka Castle Nishinomaru Garden, Sengan-yagura Turret, Tamon-yagura Turret, Remains of Taiko-yagura Turret, Osaka Shudokan Martial Arts Hall, Hokoku Shrine (Osaka), Ichiban-yagura Turret (the first turret), and Plum Grove are all located between the inner and outer moat.

Sakuramon Gate

You can cross the inner moat via the Gokuraku-bashi Bridge (or Paradise Bridge), located in the north, and Sakuramon Gate, the main sentry point in the south.

Huge stones at Sakuramon-masugata Square

The Hommaru (Inner Bailey) and the Yamazato-Maru Bailey divides the castle into two major areas within the inner moat. The Main Tower, the Kimmeisui Well, the Japanese Garden, the Takoishi (Octopus Stone), the Gimmeisui Well, the Miraiza Osakajo Complex, the Kinzo Treasure House, and the “Time capsule Expo’70” are located within the Hommaru while the Marked-Stones Square, and the Monument commemorating “Hideyori and Yodo-dono committing suicide” are within the Yamazato-Maru, Bailey.

Expo ’70 Time Capsule

The Time Capsule Expo ’70 is a stainless-steel monument which marks the site of the 1970 Japan World Exposition time capsule buried 15 m., in 1971, by Panasonic and The Mainichi Newspapers.  The two identical capsules contain 2,098 everyday items from 1970 Time Capsule Expo ’70.

Site of Ichi-tamon Turret
Sengan-yagura Turret

In the park, there is Osaka Castle Hall, a large athletic field, baseball field, football field, open-air music theatre, open-air concert hall, and Osaka Castle Keep Tower where, from its top, the vista includes Osaka Bay to Mount Ikoma, which surround the Osaka Plain. Many busking groups perform in the park.

Tamon-Yagura Turret

The Toyotomi Stone Wall Museum, opened to the public last April 2025, allows visitors to view, firsthand, the original Toyotomi stone walls that had been hidden, for over 400 years, since the Toyotomi forces were defeated in the Summer Campaign of Osaka in 1615 and the Tokugawa Osaka Castle was built over them.

Toyotomi Stone Wall Museum

The three-storey Miraiza Osaka-Jo, right beside the iconic Osaka Castle Main Tower, is a historical complex housed in a former military headquarters built in 1931.  It offers the Kaiyodo Figure Museum, rooftop cafes with castle views, and samurai and ninja experiences where you can dress up in authentic gear and try stage combat sword-fighting in the basement.

Miraiza Osaka-Jo

Osaka Castle Park: 1-1 Osakajo, Chūō-ku, Osaka, 540-0002 Japan. Admission is free. Tel: 06-6755-4146. Coordinates: 34°41′14″N 135°31′33″E.

How to Get There: On Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, get off at Tenmabashi or Tanimachi 4-chome Station. On Osaka Metro Chuo Line, get off at Morinomiya or Tanimachi 4-chome Station. On the JR Loop Line, get off at Morinomiya or Osaka Castle Park Station.

Dotonbori District (Osaka, Japan)

Dotonbori District

The 4-star Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, the hotel that we stayed in, happened to be just 250 m. from Dōtonbori District, the vibrant, popular, neon-lit entertainment and dining district of Osaka for visitors to the city, boasting of a number of well-known restaurants offering a range of traditional and modern Japanese dishes.  Known as one of Osaka’s principal tourist and nightlife areas, the area runs along the Dōtonbori Canal, from Dōtonboribashi Bridge to Nipponbashi Bridge in the Namba district of the city’s Chūō Ward.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review:  Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi

Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

Dōtonbori traces its history back to 1612, when merchant Nariyasu Dōton, the administrator of local canals, joined by Yasui Jihē, Yasui Kuhē, and Hirano Tōjirō, began construction of the canal on the southern edge of Osaka, aiming to increase commerce by widening the river.

View towards Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

To get there, we passed through the huge tunnel of the Shinsaibashi shopping mall. We then proceeded to the main gathering spot, often called “Hina-dan,” which offers the best views of the iconic signs. Here, we encountered Kim Jong Un lookalike Howard X (Howard (X) Lee), a well-known professional Australian-Chinese impersonator and political activist.  Considered the world’s first professional Kim Jong Un impersonator, he is frequently spotted in Dotonbori and other Japan locations, holding a toy missile and attracting large crowds.

Kim Jong Un impersonator Howard X

When taking photos with crowds, he often appears in costume and is sometimes paired with Donald Trump impersonators, notably around major events like the 2019 G20 Summit in Osaka. Creating satirical scenes to promote democracy, his appearance sometimes leads to deportation or detention due to political sensitivities. To provoke reactions from North Korean delegations beyond Japan, he has appeared at the PyeongChang Olympics and the Paris Olympics and has a significant presence on social media platforms such as Instagram. 

View from Midosuji Avenue

Evenings are the best times to experience the dazzling, futuristic neon cityscape reflected on the canal.  Here, you can also take a Dotonbori Canal Cruise or city cruise, to see the neon lights from the water, or visit the massive Don Quijote store by the canal.  Though now mostly a dining and nightlife area, the Theater District is historically known as a hub for Kabuki and Bunraku puppet theaters. 

Dotonbori Canal

Centered along the Dotonbori Canal, Dōtonbori (bori from hori, meaning “canal”) is famous for its eccentric atmosphere and extravagant signage (including the iconic Glico Running Man Sign and the massive. 6.5 m. long moving crab sign at Kani Dōraku) and is a top tourist spot for nightlife, shopping, popular spots including Ichiran, and various street food stalls selling takoyaki (octopus balls), kitsune udon and ramen. 

Check out the “Glico Running Man Sign

The author and Grace with the Glico Running Man Sign in the background

Dotonbori is considered as the city’s food capital or kuidaore, a Japanese word meaning to “ruin oneself or go bankrupt by extravagant spending on food” or, more pithily, “eat until you drop.” It is part of a larger proverb: “Ruin yourself with fashions in Kyoto, ruin yourself with meals in Osaka,” reflecting local priorities (and artistry) in the clothing and food of Kyoto and Osaka, respectively.  This phrase, associated with Dōtonbori, is often used in tourist guides and advertisements.

Rows of restaurants at Dotonbori District

On our first night in Osaka, we decided to dine at Botejyu (founded in 1946), located at the second floor of the Comrade Doton Building.   We waited in line for several minutes before finally being seated.  The menu and ordering are accessed on your smartphone via a QR code. 

Botejyu Restaurant

Here, we tried out, among other dishes, the okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake consisting of wheat flour batter and other ingredients (shredded cabbage, eggs, meat, etc.). This specialty’s classic mayonnaise ingredient was developed by Botejyu. 

Ganko Sushi

On another evening, we tried out Ganko Sushi (since 1963) and Torikizoku (a popular, affordable yakitori chain. The latter is located at the Kuidaore Building, in front of which is Kuidaore Taro (also known as the Kuidaore Ningyo), a mechanical drum-playing clown, installed in 1950 as a mascot for the now closed Kuidaore Taro Restaurant which moved to a new location slightly east of his old haunt. Every March the visiting rikishi for the Osaka Grand Sumo tournament used to line up with Kuidaore Taro for photos.

L-R: Jandy, Miguel, Matthew, Nenette, Mark, the author and Grace at Torikizoku Restaurant
The mechanical, drum playing clown Kuidaore Taro

How to Get There: Located in the Minami district, Dotonbori, adjacent to the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street, is easily accessible near Namba Station.

Glico Running Man Sign (Osaka, Japan)

They say that any visit to Osaka is never complete without a photo-op with the Glico Running Man Sign, one of the most well-known and recognized landmarks in Osaka, in the background.  This iconic, huge, brightly lit neon/LED billboard, located in Osaka’s Dotonbori district, has glowed over the Dotombori Canal in Osaka‘s premier shopping and entertainment district for more than 90 years now. 

Check out “Dotonbori District

Glico Running Man Sign

It shows a runner, against a blue track with Osaka landmarks, reportedly inspired, in part, by the winning form of Fortunato Catalon, an early 20th century Filipino champion sprinter, from Tolosa, Leyte, known in the 1910s and 1920s, as “Asia’s Fastest Man,” in the 100-yard and 220-yard dashes during the 1917 Far Eastern Games held in Tokyo, as well as Japanese marathoner Shizu Kanaguri. It was first installed in 1935 by Ezaki Glico (manufacturer of one of Asia’s most famous confectioneries) company founder Ri-ichi Ezaki, to represent his energy-boosting caramel Glico candy that, according to lore (the Japanese love a backstory), could give you “enough energy to run 300 meters.” This energy product was created in 1922 by adding glycogen from oysters to the snack and, to this day, this running man has been used as the company’s mascot and logo.

Ezaki Glico’s most popular product is Pocky, confectionery-coated pretzel sticks, which comes in a number of tasty flavors, very popular in Japan and abroad (it is known as Mikado in some parts of the world). Glico’s other confectionery products include Pretz, Caplico, Bisco and Karujaga. Glico also makes ice-cream products and a few processed foods and curry roux blocks.  Glico has a museum, at their Osaka headquarters, featuring all sorts of nostalgic packaging and a collection of the free toys that are given away with each box. Currently on display, part of a special exhibition, is a selection of diorama’s of Dotombori and the Running Man billboard.

The sign, which now serves as a symbol of perseverance, energy, health, victory and the spirit of Osaka, has had several overhauls. Since 1972, the huge neon has shown the Running Man on a running track. In 1998,  some of Osaka‘s best-known landmarks, such as Osaka Castle and the Tsutenkaku Tower, were added to the background.  The previous five versions were all neon. The 2014 LED version follows a similar theme, with the landmarks taking a more dynamic role.

The author

Also, through the years, it has been occasionally altered to support the mighty Hanshin Tigers, Osaka’s baseball team (when Japan hosted the Soccer World Cup), and to celebrate various sporting triumphs or celebratory images, such as in 2020, to celebrate Takuma Sato and his second Indy 500 victory (the sign changed every 15 minutes to an image of Sato performing the “Glico Man Pose”).  The current 6th generation sign, installed in October 2014, is the first to use the new high-resolution LED technology which allows even more special events celebrated via the huge billboard.  It is 20 m. high, 10.38 m. wide and is illuminated from sunset until 12 midnight.

Jandy

A popular meeting place and spot to take photos, here visitors, both local and foreign, often mimic the runner’s pose (arms raised, one leg up). For the best experience, visit during the week or earlier in the day, though the sign is truly spectacular at night when the bridge is jam packed, especially at weekends, with people entering the Dotombori entertainment area.  A central point for shopping and food in Dotonbori, the area around the sign is crowded, with other bright, large signs.

Just east of the Glico Man billboard is Ebisubashi, originally constructed to provide access to the nearby Ebisu Shrine.  The bridge, more practically, provides a link between the Shinsaibashi-suji and Ebisubashi-suji shopping districts.  The bridge is also the location of a legendary curse, on Osaka’s baseball team, the Hanshin Tigers, which was considered broken in 2023.

Ebisubashi also makes for a convenient gathering point, due to the familiarity of the Glico Man, hence its nicknames, nanpa-bashi (mostly used by foreigners) and hikkake-bashi (“the pulling bridge”), mostly used by native Japanese.

Glico Running Man Sign: 1 Chrome-10-4Dotonbori Sistrict, Chuo Ward, 542-0071 Osaka.  Tel: +81 120-917-111.

How to Get There: The sign is located at the South bank of the Dotonbori Canal, near Ebisubashi Bridge.