Meriken Park (Kobe, Japan)

Meriken Park

Our third whole day in Japan was spent on a day tour of Kobe which was just a 37.1-km. (40-min. drive) from Osaka.  Our first stopover was at Meriken Park, a nice waterfront park located in Kobe’s port area.  The park’s name was derived from the word “American,” which was commonly translated as “Meriken” during the Meiji era. Upon arrival, we first had breakfast at a stylish, 2-storey Starbucks outlet, with its ship-inspired design. Opened in 2017, it featured hishibuki (traditional diamond-patterned metal plates meant to evoke the feeling of a ship’s cabin) and offered stunning waterfront views of Kobe Harbor from its large glass walls and second floor outdoor balcony.

Beside the Starbucks store is the Bell of Hortensia, a colorful, modern mosaic sculpture. Installed on June 19, 1990, it represents the Hydrangea macrophylla, Kobe’s official flower.  It was established to commemorate the opening of the first Kobe Fashion Festival in November 1989, which was part of the World Fashion Festival ’89. When it was first installed at the “symbol monument of the fashion city of Kobe,” the bell was rung but, after the Great Hanshin earthquake, which devastated the park, it has not been rung.

Bell of Hortensia
Kobe Maritime Museum

Built on an outcropping of reclaimed land, this waterfront park, a popular spot for locals and tourists, is covered in grassy lawn and open courtyards and is dotted with a collection of modern art installations and fountains. Meriken Park, the location of the Hotel Okura Kobe, Sannomiya Ferry Terminal (where the Jumbo Ferry, connecting Kobe, Shodoshima, and Takamatsu, and the Miyazaki Car Ferry, departs and arrives) and the wave-shaped Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel, is home to some of the city’s more iconic contemporary architecture such as the red Kobe Port Tower and Kobe Maritime Museum.

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel

To the west of the Maritime Museum stands the 108 m. (354 ft.) high Kobe Port Tower, a unique, red-painted steel structure completed in 1963, was designed by the Nikken Sekkei Company to look like a tsuzumi, a Japanese drum. A symbol of the port and the city, it is the first tower built using a pipe lattice.  The tower has a total of 8 layers and is surrounded by 32 red steel staves as a symbol of welcome for vessels returning to the shore. It has five observation decks, approximately 100 m. above ground, including an open-air rooftop deck and a revolving cafe and bar.

Port of Kobe Tower

The “Be Kobe” Monument, installed in 2017 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the opening of Kobe Port, is a popular photo spot.  The phrase “Be Kobe,” introduce in 2015 (the 20th anniversary of the Great Hanshin earthquake), is a civic pride message that expresses the idea that the chrm of Kobe lies in its people, inspired by those who work hard for the city’s recovery.

Be Kobe Sign

Kobe Port was once Japan’s most important departure point for overseas immigrants and the famous Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue (also known as “Set Sail for Hope” or “Memorial Statue of Emigrants Boarding the Emigrant Ship”) honors the thousands of Japanese citizens who emigrated from Kobe Port, for new lives abroad, particularly to Brazil, in the early 20th century.

Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue

Erected in 2001, it also serves as a reminder of the “National Kobe Emigrant Camp” history, where families awaited ships to travel abroad.  This bronze monument, erected in 2001, features a family (two adults and a child gazing out at the sea), symbolizing the departure.  The main statue is titled “Hope’s Departure.” The statue is seen as a bridge connecting Japan and the destination countries of immigrants, symbolizing international exchange and pioneering spirit.

Meriken Theatre Monument

The unique Meriken Theatre Monument, erected in 1987, commemorates Kobe as the location of the first public movie screening in Japan.  A popular photo spot, it was designed to look like a cinema screen and theatre seats. 

Kobe Kaientai Monument

The Kobe Kaientai Monument, a notable abstract sculpture, commemorates the Kobe Kaientai, a historical naval group active at the end of the Edo Period.

Save Northern People (Kaneichi Futakuchi)

“Save Northern People,” a notable abstract, human-shaped bronze sculpture created by sculptor Kaneichi Futakuchi, was a winner of the Port of Kobe Anniversary Commemorative Award.  It is often interpreted as a tribute to those who left Kobe in search of a better life far away.

Sannomiya Ferry Terminal
A ship docked at the harbor

Meriken Park: 2 Hatobacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe-shi, Hyogo-ken, 650-0042.

How to Get There: Meriken Park is about a 10-minute walk south of Motomachi Station, on the JR Kobe Line, or just across the sightseeing cruise terminal from Kobe Harborland.

Tempozan Ferris Wheel (Osaka, Japan)

Tempozan Ferris Wheel

After admiring the Osaka skyline from the Kuchu Keien Observatory at the Umeda Sky Building, we had some free time to explore the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan (one of the largest aquariums in the world), a 13.9-km./20-min. drive away but, as we arrived late, we decided to try out the nearby Tempozan Ferris Wheel.

Ticket Office

After paying the admission fee, we boarded two of its 60 airconditioned gondolas (three are barrier-free, allowing wheelchair users to board directly, while 8 gondolas have seats and floors that are see-through, giving you a 360° view of the scenery around your feet). During the ride, commentary is provided in both Japanese and English.

Boarding our gondola

This 112 m. tall (367 ft.)  Ferris wheel  has a height of 112.5 m. (369 ft.) and diameter of 100 m. (330 ft.). Opened to the public on July 12, 1997, it was then the tallest Ferris wheel in the world.  During our fantastic, 17-minute aerial journey, we were offered a view of Osaka Bay and surrounding areas, including Mount Ikoma to the east, Akashi Kaikyō Bridge to the west, Kansai International Airport to the south, and the Rokko Mountains to the north.

The author, Grace, Nenette and Miguel

The wheel has colored LED lights, another popular attraction, that provide a weather forecast for the next day. Orange lights indicate a sunny day, green lights a cloudy day and blue lights indicate rain. Illuminating Osaka Port, they have now become one of Osaka’s nighttime attractions.

The Osaka skyline
Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan

Tempozan Ferris Wheel: 1-1-10 Kaigan-dori, Minato-ku, Tempozan Harbor Village, Osaka-shi, 552-0022, Japan. Tel: +81 6-6576-6222. Open daily, 10 AM-10 PM (last entry 9:30 PM). Admission: JPY900 per person (3 years old and above). Coordinates: 34°40′N 135°26′E.

How to Get There: It’s about a 5-minute walk from Osakako Station on Osaka Metro Chuo Line.

Umeda Sky Building (Osaka, Japan)

Kuchu Teien Observatory at Umeda Sky Building

After our tour of Shitennoji Temple and lunch at Marumiya Restaurant, we transported, via van, for 12 kms. (a 30-min. drive) to the 170 m. (557.74 ft) high Umeda Sky Building (Umeda Sukai Biru),  a mixed-use skyscraper with two 40-storey towers (Tower East and Tower West). The tower also has an underground market that attempts to recreate the atmosphere of Osaka in the early 20th century. 

Check out “Shitennoji Temple”

Umeda Sky Building
Wall of Hope (Tadao Ando)

The Umeda Sky Building was designed by Hiroshi Hara, the architect of the Kyoto Station Building, and were constructed by Takenaka Corporation. It was completed in March 1993. In 2008, The Times, a British newspaper, selected the Umeda Sky Building among the “Top 20 Buildings around the World,” recognizing it as an Osaka landmark due to its futuristic, dramatic design. The list also included the Sagrada Familia in Spain, the Taj Mahal of India and the Parthenon of Greece.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy at the Kuchu Teien Observatory

The two towers are interconnected, at the 39th, 40th and roof deck floors, by the famous Kuchu Teien (“Floating Garden”) Observatory.  Elevators cross an open atrium space.  The 35th floor is connected to the 39th floor (the observatory entrance) by see-through escalators covered in a transparent tube. A popular spot to take photos, here we felt like we were standing inside a spaceship.

The see-through escalator

The last stop of the escalator, the 39th floor, is open to the public. It consists of a ticket counter at the 39th floor where, after purchasing a ticket, visitors may enter the indoor observatory deck at the 40th floor and the Sky Walk, an open-air lookout (rooftop).  Sangu (an authentic Chinese restaurant serving lunch and dinner), and Stardust (a bar serving Italian course meals with 300 types of cocktails) are also located on the 39th floor.

The Yodo River
The Osaka skyline

The observatory offers great views of the city through its windows and from its 360° open-air rooftop observation deck where we felt the refreshing breeze, a must-see at least once in any season and at any time of day.  Here, we had views of the skyscrapers in the Umeda area, the Yodo River (the symbol of the city), Odori Park, Susukino, Sapporo Dome and, when the weather is fine, the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world, is also visible. Dusk to evening is said to be the best time to drop by since visitors can enjoy the sunset and night view.

Cafe SKY 40

Cafe SKY 40, at the indoor observation floor (40th floor), features a 35 m. long glass counter, allowing you to enjoy cafe time as if floating in the sky.  It serves coffee, alcoholic beverages, and snacks.

Heart Lock Counter

The one-and-only Heart Lock, a heart-shaped padlock, is especially popular with couples who can choose among ten colors and have their names and date engraved.

Lumi Deck

They can be taken home as a souvenir or can also be placed “Fence of Vows” at the Lumi Deck (rooftop), a sky-high dating spot, or the Chikai no Saku (“Fence of Pledges”) inside the shop. Once shut, the padlock cannot be opened, so it will be a unique memory with someone special.

Heart Locks at Lumi Deck

Umeda Sky Building: Kita Ward, Oyodonaka, 1 Chome−1−88 531-6039 OsakaJapan. Open daily, 9:30 AM to 10:30 PM (last admission: 10 PM). Tel: +81 6-6440-3855. Admission: 2,000 yen (adults), 500 yen (children, 4 years old to Elementary School). If you have Osaka e-pass, admission is free until 3:00 PM. If you would like to purchase the popular Heart Rock, be sure to purchase your online ticket with Heart Rock in advance.

How to Get There: It is a 7-min. walk from JR Osaka Station and a 9-min. walk from Hankyu Osaka-Umeda Station/ Osaka Metro Umeda Station

Dotonbori District (Osaka, Japan)

Dotonbori District

The 4-star Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, the hotel that we stayed in, happened to be just 250 m. from Dōtonbori District, the vibrant, popular, neon-lit entertainment and dining district of Osaka for visitors to the city, boasting of a number of well-known restaurants offering a range of traditional and modern Japanese dishes.  Known as one of Osaka’s principal tourist and nightlife areas, the area runs along the Dōtonbori Canal, from Dōtonboribashi Bridge to Nipponbashi Bridge in the Namba district of the city’s Chūō Ward.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review:  Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi

Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

Dōtonbori traces its history back to 1612, when merchant Nariyasu Dōton, the administrator of local canals, joined by Yasui Jihē, Yasui Kuhē, and Hirano Tōjirō, began construction of the canal on the southern edge of Osaka, aiming to increase commerce by widening the river.

View towards Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

To get there, we passed through the huge tunnel of the Shinsaibashi shopping mall. We then proceeded to the main gathering spot, often called “Hina-dan,” which offers the best views of the iconic signs. Here, we encountered Kim Jong Un lookalike Howard X (Howard (X) Lee), a well-known professional Australian-Chinese impersonator and political activist.  Considered the world’s first professional Kim Jong Un impersonator, he is frequently spotted in Dotonbori and other Japan locations, holding a toy missile and attracting large crowds.

Kim Jong Un impersonator Howard X

When taking photos with crowds, he often appears in costume and is sometimes paired with Donald Trump impersonators, notably around major events like the 2019 G20 Summit in Osaka. Creating satirical scenes to promote democracy, his appearance sometimes leads to deportation or detention due to political sensitivities. To provoke reactions from North Korean delegations beyond Japan, he has appeared at the PyeongChang Olympics and the Paris Olympics and has a significant presence on social media platforms such as Instagram. 

View from Midosuji Avenue

Evenings are the best times to experience the dazzling, futuristic neon cityscape reflected on the canal.  Here, you can also take a Dotonbori Canal Cruise or city cruise, to see the neon lights from the water, or visit the massive Don Quijote store by the canal.  Though now mostly a dining and nightlife area, the Theater District is historically known as a hub for Kabuki and Bunraku puppet theaters. 

Dotonbori Canal

Centered along the Dotonbori Canal, Dōtonbori (bori from hori, meaning “canal”) is famous for its eccentric atmosphere and extravagant signage (including the iconic Glico Running Man Sign and the massive. 6.5 m. long moving crab sign at Kani Dōraku) and is a top tourist spot for nightlife, shopping, popular spots including Ichiran, and various street food stalls selling takoyaki (octopus balls), kitsune udon and ramen. 

Check out the “Glico Running Man Sign

The author and Grace with the Glico Running Man Sign in the background

Dotonbori is considered as the city’s food capital or kuidaore, a Japanese word meaning to “ruin oneself or go bankrupt by extravagant spending on food” or, more pithily, “eat until you drop.” It is part of a larger proverb: “Ruin yourself with fashions in Kyoto, ruin yourself with meals in Osaka,” reflecting local priorities (and artistry) in the clothing and food of Kyoto and Osaka, respectively.  This phrase, associated with Dōtonbori, is often used in tourist guides and advertisements.

Rows of restaurants at Dotonbori District

On our first night in Osaka, we decided to dine at Botejyu (founded in 1946), located at the second floor of the Comrade Doton Building.   We waited in line for several minutes before finally being seated.  The menu and ordering are accessed on your smartphone via a QR code. 

Botejyu Restaurant

Here, we tried out, among other dishes, the okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake consisting of wheat flour batter and other ingredients (shredded cabbage, eggs, meat, etc.). This specialty’s classic mayonnaise ingredient was developed by Botejyu. 

Ganko Sushi

On another evening, we tried out Ganko Sushi (since 1963) and Torikizoku (a popular, affordable yakitori chain. The latter is located at the Kuidaore Building, in front of which is Kuidaore Taro (also known as the Kuidaore Ningyo), a mechanical drum-playing clown, installed in 1950 as a mascot for the now closed Kuidaore Taro Restaurant which moved to a new location slightly east of his old haunt. Every March the visiting rikishi for the Osaka Grand Sumo tournament used to line up with Kuidaore Taro for photos.

L-R: Jandy, Miguel, Matthew, Nenette, Mark, the author and Grace at Torikizoku Restaurant
The mechanical, drum playing clown Kuidaore Taro

How to Get There: Located in the Minami district, Dotonbori, adjacent to the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street, is easily accessible near Namba Station.

Glico Running Man Sign (Osaka, Japan)

They say that any visit to Osaka is never complete without a photo-op with the Glico Running Man Sign, one of the most well-known and recognized landmarks in Osaka, in the background.  This iconic, huge, brightly lit neon/LED billboard, located in Osaka’s Dotonbori district, has glowed over the Dotombori Canal in Osaka‘s premier shopping and entertainment district for more than 90 years now. 

Check out “Dotonbori District

Glico Running Man Sign

It shows a runner, against a blue track with Osaka landmarks, reportedly inspired, in part, by the winning form of Fortunato Catalon, an early 20th century Filipino champion sprinter, from Tolosa, Leyte, known in the 1910s and 1920s, as “Asia’s Fastest Man,” in the 100-yard and 220-yard dashes during the 1917 Far Eastern Games held in Tokyo, as well as Japanese marathoner Shizu Kanaguri. It was first installed in 1935 by Ezaki Glico (manufacturer of one of Asia’s most famous confectioneries) company founder Ri-ichi Ezaki, to represent his energy-boosting caramel Glico candy that, according to lore (the Japanese love a backstory), could give you “enough energy to run 300 meters.” This energy product was created in 1922 by adding glycogen from oysters to the snack and, to this day, this running man has been used as the company’s mascot and logo.

Ezaki Glico’s most popular product is Pocky, confectionery-coated pretzel sticks, which comes in a number of tasty flavors, very popular in Japan and abroad (it is known as Mikado in some parts of the world). Glico’s other confectionery products include Pretz, Caplico, Bisco and Karujaga. Glico also makes ice-cream products and a few processed foods and curry roux blocks.  Glico has a museum, at their Osaka headquarters, featuring all sorts of nostalgic packaging and a collection of the free toys that are given away with each box. Currently on display, part of a special exhibition, is a selection of diorama’s of Dotombori and the Running Man billboard.

The sign, which now serves as a symbol of perseverance, energy, health, victory and the spirit of Osaka, has had several overhauls. Since 1972, the huge neon has shown the Running Man on a running track. In 1998,  some of Osaka‘s best-known landmarks, such as Osaka Castle and the Tsutenkaku Tower, were added to the background.  The previous five versions were all neon. The 2014 LED version follows a similar theme, with the landmarks taking a more dynamic role.

The author

Also, through the years, it has been occasionally altered to support the mighty Hanshin Tigers, Osaka’s baseball team (when Japan hosted the Soccer World Cup), and to celebrate various sporting triumphs or celebratory images, such as in 2020, to celebrate Takuma Sato and his second Indy 500 victory (the sign changed every 15 minutes to an image of Sato performing the “Glico Man Pose”).  The current 6th generation sign, installed in October 2014, is the first to use the new high-resolution LED technology which allows even more special events celebrated via the huge billboard.  It is 20 m. high, 10.38 m. wide and is illuminated from sunset until 12 midnight.

Jandy

A popular meeting place and spot to take photos, here visitors, both local and foreign, often mimic the runner’s pose (arms raised, one leg up). For the best experience, visit during the week or earlier in the day, though the sign is truly spectacular at night when the bridge is jam packed, especially at weekends, with people entering the Dotombori entertainment area.  A central point for shopping and food in Dotonbori, the area around the sign is crowded, with other bright, large signs.

Just east of the Glico Man billboard is Ebisubashi, originally constructed to provide access to the nearby Ebisu Shrine.  The bridge, more practically, provides a link between the Shinsaibashi-suji and Ebisubashi-suji shopping districts.  The bridge is also the location of a legendary curse, on Osaka’s baseball team, the Hanshin Tigers, which was considered broken in 2023.

Ebisubashi also makes for a convenient gathering point, due to the familiarity of the Glico Man, hence its nicknames, nanpa-bashi (mostly used by foreigners) and hikkake-bashi (“the pulling bridge”), mostly used by native Japanese.

Glico Running Man Sign: 1 Chrome-10-4Dotonbori Sistrict, Chuo Ward, 542-0071 Osaka.  Tel: +81 120-917-111.

How to Get There: The sign is located at the South bank of the Dotonbori Canal, near Ebisubashi Bridge.

Mega Grand World Hanoi (Vietnam)

Mega Grand World Hanoi

Prior to our departure back to Manila, we made a short stopover at the Mega Grand World Hanoi, a large-scale entertainment and leisure complex that opened in 2023.  Designed to be a comprehensive destination for both locals and tourists, it combines shopping, dining, cultural experiences, and entertainment. This new urban area, mega complex and vibrant festive space, conveniently situated at the heart of Ocean City, to the east of Hanoi, offers visitors a unique blend of top-tier entertainment, upscale shopping, vibrant events, and where visitors can immerse themselves in the rich cultural tapestry of Asia and Europe via a captivating fusion of Asian and European landscapes. 

L-R: Jandy, Grace, the author, Lourdes and Lorraine

It connects the Coral Avenue of Vinhomes Ocean Park 2, the Four Seasons Avenue of Vinhomes Ocean Park 3, and Ring Road 3.5. From the timeless elegance of Venetian-inspired areas and the bustling energy of Korean-inspired zones, Grand World provides endless opportunities for sightseeing and photography.

Jandy and Grace

The lively Venice – Riverside Western Market, featuring an authentic array of colorful shops lining the colorful streets and enchanting banks of the river, offers Italian charm with gondola boats, which are reminiscent of those found on Venetian canals. Visitors can board these gondolas and enjoy a picturesque cruise along the serene, 830-m. long canal, admire the magnificent sunset, explore the diverse shops, and immerse themselves in the vibrant culture that this zone encapsulates. During the ride, you will also get to enjoy impromptu European music performances.

Pedestrian bridge crossing the canal

Crossing the canal is a pedestrian bridge connecting to Asia, with typical Korean ancient houses in the K-Town subdivision.

The bustling K-Town – Coastal Eastern Street, featuring a dynamic blend of traditional and modern architecture, creates a vibrant ambiance reminiscent of some of Korea’s most iconic areas. This zone captures the essence of both ancient and contemporary Korean culture through its diverse offerings, including the upscale Gangnam shopping street, the multicultural Itaewon cultural street, the youthful Hongdae food and art street, and the bustling Myeongdong fashion and beauty street.

Little Hong Kong, a zone that captures the essence of Hong Kong, feels like entering a paradise of shopping, entertainment, and joy. Stepping into Little Hong Kong, visitors can experience the culinary delight and cultural life of Hong Kong, right in Hanoi, as they enjoy an array of experiences that extend from vibrant shopping streets to lively entertainment venues, including lounges, bars, and pubs.

The unique Grand Voyage Show, a special, unforgettable performance held on Asia’s largest outdoor boat stage, brings to life the bustling and magnificent European trade route, crossing the maritime Silk Road, five oceans, and the trading port of Hoi An, Vietnam through captivating performances enhanced by advanced technology, impressive 3D mapping, dynamic sound and light effects, a giant water screen, and a talented cast of over 62 actors.

Gondola ride

The mesmerizing and unforgettable “Journey to the Wonderland,” a circus show presented by a talented troupe of professional performers from China, invites and transports audiences to a new realm of thrilling dreams through the captivating language of elaborate circus performances. With awe-inspiring acts and mesmerizing choreography, the show promises to dazzle audiences of all ages.

The fantastic and delightful carousel ride, with its vibrant colors and enchanting music, offers a nostalgic journey for visitors of all ages as you enjoy panoramic views of Grand World’s bustling atmosphere while being carried away by the gentle motion of the carousel.

Grand World, a shopping paradise that cater to every shopping enthusiast’s needs, boasts a plethora of renowned fashion and cosmetic brands. Visitors can also shop for furniture at Sinh Phu, sofas at Kuka Home, and household appliances at Lock & Lock. 

Come evening, visitors are treated to a dazzling spectacle of lights and colors as fireworks light up the sky above Grand World, adding an extra layer of magic as you’re strolling through the vibrant streets, enjoying a delicious meal at a restaurant, or simply taking in the sights and sounds of the bustling complex.

The serene Tropical Lagoon, a man-made beach with fine white sand and clear blue water amidst urban landscapes, provides the perfect setting for moments of relaxation and rejuvenation. It also boasts an array of artworks, making it a haven for photography enthusiasts seeking to capture quality photos.

Grand World 0ffers an unparalleled culinary experience, with hundreds of renowned domestic and international brands. Visitors can indulge in dishes from Vietnam’s three regions as well as explore unique flavors from Thai, Korean, Japanese, Italian, and American cuisines. After a satisfying meal, you can relax at beautiful coffee shops, bars, and clubs, including favorites like Highlands Coffee, Trung Nguyen Legend, Katinat Cafe, Poseidon Bar, and 729 Club.

VinWonders Wave Park & Water Park, surrounded by blue water and white sand, offers a variety of thrilling and exhilarating water sports activities such as slides, themed playgrounds, and outdoor and indoor pools.

Mega Grand World Ha Noi: Nghĩa Trụ, Văn Giang, Hung Yen, Vietnam.  Tel: +84 1900 232389. Open 24/7 (some activities and services have specific operating hours). You will need to pay for optional experiences like gondola rides or costume rentals.  Entrance fee: Free of charge (some activities and services have specific fees). The main daily show, “The Grand Voyage,” takes place on the Venice River at 9 PM (21:00). Various attractions have different opening and closing times. The gondola ride service on the Venice river operates daily, from 10 AM to 8 PM. The Teddy Bear Museum may have separate ticket prices. A general admission ticket is available for around $150,000 VND. 

How to Get There: Visitors can easily reach Grand World from Hanoi via various means of transportation. If you have a motorbike or car, you can drive to Grand World from Hanoi yourself in just about 50 minutes from the city center. This complex is equipped with numerous parking lots.  Just follow the route: Vinh Tuy Bridge – Co Linh Street – Hanoi-Hai Phong Highway – Grand World. VinBus. which continuously operates, connects Grand World with various locations in downtown Hanoi. Free electric VIN bus service is available from Hoan Kiem and Time City to Grand World Hanoi. 

Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre (Ha Long City, Vietnam)

Vietnamese water puppetry

After the end of our Ambrose Day Cruise, we again boarded our coach for the short 6.9-km. drive to Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre (Thanh Long Water Puppet Theatre) where we were to watch a water puppet show, a unique art form, central to Vietnamese culture, offering insight into local traditions, rural life, folklore, and historical tales, accompanied by live music. 

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Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre

A dedicated venue for traditional Vietnamese water puppetry (Múa rối nước) which originated in the 11th century from the rice-farming villages of the Red River Delta here, we watched ancient Vietnamese water puppetry featuring puppets, made of fig wood carved and painted skillfully in various fascinating shapes as well as symbolic facial expressions, moving on a water stage. 

Shows feature scenes of rice planting, fishing, dragon dances, and folk stories, bringing Vietnamese village life to the stage. Family-friendly, children especially enjoy the colorful puppets and engaging stories.

The stage

Traditionally performed during festivals, celebrations, and special occasions such as the Lunar New Year, over time, it evolved from a humble village entertainment into a distinctive form of traditional Vietnamese performing art. 

The singers to the left of the stage

Aside from Hoa Sen, there are two other water puppet theaters in Halong that are famous for water puppetry: Hoang Gia International Park (Bai Chay Tourist Area) and Yen Duc Village (Dong Trieu District). Since performing water puppets requires a large body of water, Halong Bay is an ideal place to showcase the colors of this rich and special cultural show, making it a popular, easily accessible cultural activity for visitors to the region.

The folk orchestra to the right of the stage

A showcase of the traditional daily lives of Vietnam’s farmers, from their way of making a living on the rice field to how they entertain themselves after hard working hours, the Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre covers an area of nearly 1,000 sq. m., with a seating capacity of up to 500 people at one time. It organizes a special performance, combining 16 different local fairy tales with interesting stories about Vietnam’s culture.

The farming theme

The themes of the 30 to 35-minute show focus on the daily life of farmers, folklore, historical tales and the general aspects of the Vietnamese’s spiritual life.  Puppets are manipulated by puppeteers standing in waist-deep water behind a screen, creating a magical effect. To the left and right of the stage are two small folk orchestra of 5 and 7 people, respectively. Currently, there are 3 water puppet shows in a day, with each show lasting from 30 – 35 minutes.

The puppeteers

Hoa Sen Water Puppet Theatre: No. 46 – The 2nd Peninsular, Hoang Quoc Viet, Halong City. Admission: 150,000vnd/pax

Sung Hot Cave (Ha Long, Vietnam)

Sung Hot Cave

The large, mysterious and beautiful Sung Sot Cave (also called “Surprising Cave”), on Bo Hon Island in the center of Ha Long Bay and the Tonkin Gulf, is the largest (it can accommodate up to 1,000 visitors at a time) and, possibly, the most prominent and most frequented by visitors of all the caverns in Halong.  Situated in a limestone massif, with an extremely developed karst terrain, is known for its impressive stalactites that hang from the ceiling, stalagmites that rise from the floor and vast, multi-chambered interior.

The winding stone stairway leading up to the cave entrance

In 1901, French geologist Henri Mansuy, in search of minerals, discovered this cave, describing it as “a cathedral crafted by nature herself,” giving rise to the moniker Grotte de la surprise, “the cave of surprise.” However, this name was not officially recognized until nearly 40 years later when a French travelogue was published in 1938. In 1993, just one year before UNESCO declared Ha Long Bay’s core region as a World Natural Heritage site, Sung Sot Cave welcomed its first visitors. Dubbed the “Opera House of Ha Long Bay,” it was named one of the top ten most beautiful caves in the world by the Czech Association of Travel Agents and Brokers.  

The stone stairway amidst lush vegetation

According to legend, thousands of years ago, during the reign of King Hung, the Van Lang kingdom faced an invasion by the Yin from China. In this moment of crisis, Thanh Giong, a three-year-old boy, miraculously appeared to aid the king. Riding a colossal iron horse and wielding a mighty sword, Thanh Giong, with extraordinary strength and courage, defeated the invaders. Breathtaking Halong Bay is said to be the site of this epic confrontation. After the battle, Thanh Giong ascended to heaven from this cave, leaving behind his legendary steed and weapon.

The cave entrance

Ha Long Bay has many other caves with varying degrees of accessibility and visitor numbers, some of which may be affected by tourism. Other caves with stalactites exist in the bay. Cap La Cave, in the Bai Tu Long Bay area, known for its unique stalactites and pristine nature, though it may not be currently accessible to visitors. Sung Sot Cave is an old phreatic cave which also include Tam Cung, Lau Dai, Thien Cung, Dau Go, Hoang Long and Thien Long.

The first chamber

Nowadays, these caves lie at various heights. From its truncated entrance chambers on a ledge high on the cliff, a passage of more than 10 m. high and wide descends to the south. Covering a total area of more than 12,000 sq. m., the cave is divided into three chambers with a wealth of stalagmites of various shapes. 

A cave pool

The island, and its cave, was the second stop of our Ambrose Day Cruise. Upon arrival at the island, Jandy and I, as well as other tourists from other boats, disembarked and queued up to climb around 100 winding stone steps, surrounded by lush forests, and then descend 10 stone steps to reach the cave entrance which is a small rock breach, 25 m. above sea level, halfway up the limestone mountain. 

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Part of the 800 m. long stone walkway

The path inside the cave was through an 800-m. long stone walkway, with gradual ups and downs, and lit, with colorful lampposts, to highlight its features, creating a vivid tableau and transforming the cave’s cold, empty feeling into a lively, captivating scene.  Some parts have a diffused orange light that creates a fanciful atmosphere, making the space more mysterious and attractive.  A dry cave, it allows for comfortable one-way exploration on foot, with a separate entrance and exit. 

Jandy in front of a cave drapery

At the. first chamber, the smallest of the three chambers at nearly 3,000 sq. m, is likely a “waiting room.” Here, there is a small, serene and shallow freshwater lake formed by rainwater trickling through the limestone cracks in the cave ceiling, with clear water that allows you to view the lake’s bottom, adding to the chamber’s mystical ambiance.  Its ceiling is covered with a layer of “velvet carpet,” with gleaming stalactite chandeliers hung 25 to 30 m. high in the outer chamber, including stone sculptures, banyan trees, dinosaurs, elephants, flowers, seals, etc.

The cave ceiling

The “Stone Waterfall,” on the eastern wall, is a massive, 18-m. wide flowstone formation that appears to be frozen in mid-flow.  Created by centuries of mineral-rich water flowing down a cave wall, its varying mineral content creates striking color variations ranging from pure white to amber and deep russet tones.  

The “Elephant,” near the transition between the first and second chambers, is a stalactite-stalagmite combination with a massive body created by the joining of the ceiling and floor, a clearly-defined trunk and tusks formed by small stalactites.

The second chamber (known as the “Royal Garden”), stretching an impressive 7,000 sq. m., is connected to the first chamber by a narrow rock path.  It opened to an enormous space with and enormous freshwater lake, stunning rock formations and huge and beautiful stalactites and stalagmites in unique and interesting shapes such as a buddha, a bird, a monkey climbing on the rock column, etc..  The “Royal Garden Stone,” a massive, flat-topped formation in the center of the chamber, resembles a royal viewing platform surrounded by stalagmites that look like courtiers paying homage.

The “Stone Curtain,” along the western wall, are thin, delicate (some just 2 to 3 cms. thick) and wavy stalactites that create an appearance of stone curtains or draperies, with beautiful banding patterns caused by varying mineral content.  The “Sword Lake,” a small, sword-shaped pool in the center of the chamber, is said to mirror Hanoi’s Sword Lake.  During certain lighting conditions, the stalactite’s reflection creates the illusion of a sword rising from the water. The “Buddha’s Palm,” a flat, hand-shaped formation near the exit, is believed to resemble Buddha’s hand in blessing.  Though conservation efforts now discourage this practice, many visitors still touch this formation for good luck.

The author with Jandy

Inside this chamber, there are also said to be monkeys scurrying around in quest of food and fun. Compared to the first chamber, this chamber’s karstification process has resulted in a clearer and more ventilated atmosphere due to its ceiling being peppered with thousands of small holes or natural skylights that creates magical light beams during midday hours. There are also several delicate rimstone pools, with crystal-clear waters reaching depths of 30 cms. that reflect the surrounding formations, contain unique microorganisms that have adapted to the cave environment.

The truly breathtaking third and last chamber, further inside, is the biggest chamber, able to accommodate thousands of people. Inside is a 12 m. high rock formation said to be the petrified form of the legendary, stern-faced Vietnamese hero Thanh Giong.

Near the entrance is a stone block, fashioned like a massive, battle-ready horse, and a long sword that Thanh Giong left behind to drive away evil spirits.  Also inside the cave are little ponds and lakes which are regarded as the hoofprints of Thanh Giong’s horse or Giong’s footprints. The cave’s highest point is a “royal garden” with a lake, many plant species, several bird species and panoramic views of the bay.

The cave exit

The final ascent to the cave’s exit took around 275 steps plus another 250 steps, another physical effort, down to the dock. Thought beautiful, with stunning natural formations and a cool, humid environment, our cave exploration was very tiring due to the inclines.

Exiting the cave

How to Get There: Sung Sot Cave, one of the destinations in the tour route 2 (one of 6 routes that bring visitors around Halong Bay), is a short boat ride, from two major ports in Halong – Tuần Châu Wharf (about 12 kilometers from Halong city center) or Halong International Cruise Port (it came into operation in 2019 and is closer to the city center and hence easy to travel), to the island.

To visit Sung Sot cave, travelers must first purchase entrance tickets to the harbor and then boat tickets. Tickets can be purchased at the booth on the right of the entrance of Tuần Châu Wharf. If you want to visit this cave, you need to buy a ticket for route 2, the only one with swimming and full of all kinds of experiences, from visiting caves, boating (or kayaking), swimming, sightseeing and relaxing. This is a half-day tour that lasts from noon to evening. It includes attractions such as Cave Park Conservation Center – Soi Sim Island, Ti Top Island, Sung Sot Cave, Bo Nau Cave, Ho Dong Tien Cave, Luon Cave, Trong Cave, and Trinh Nu Cave.

Entrance tickets for route 2:

Day trip ticket: VND 290,000 (USD 12.1) per person

Ticket for 2 days and 1 night: VND 590,000 (USD 24.6) per person

Ticket for 3 days and 2 nights: VND 790,000 (USD 33) per person

Boat tickets:

The boat fare for individual passengers for route 2 (including Sung Sot cave) is regulated by Halong Bay Management Board as VND 200,000 (USD 8.4) or VND 250 000 (USD 10.5)/pax + entrance ticket (not included) including food, drink and 50 000 VND (2.1 USD)/pax ticket for bamboo boat/kayaking and tour guides). The tour lasts from 5 to 6 hours. The departure times of the boats are 6:30 – 8 AM and 12 – 1:00 PM.

Ambrose Day Cruise (Ha Long, Vietnam)

Ha Long Bay

After breakfast at Tru by Hilton Viet Tri City Centre, we all boarded our coach for the over 4-hour/258-km. drive, including short stopovers at Hanoi and Hai Durong, to Ha Long Bay arriving, before noon, at the Ha Long International Cruise Port which just came into operation in 2019, is closer to the city center and, hence, easy to travel.

Ha Long International Cruise Port

Upon entering the terminal, we walked towards the berthing area of Ambrose Cruise which was to take us on a a modern, 5-star luxury six-hour day cruise of Ha Long Bay.

Ambrose Day Cruise

Launched in 2025, Ambrose Cruise is a 40 m. long, vessel, with three luxurious decks with an area of 400 sq. m.. Built in an elegant and sophisticated Indochina style, it can accommodate up to 99 guests.

L-R: Grace, Jandy, Lorraine and Lourdes at the sun deck
The jacuzzi pool

It has an infinity Jacuzzi pool on the second deck, an ocean-view restaurant and bar, a grand stage with a large LED screen and state-of-the-art sound and lighting systems, and a spacious outdoor lounge area.  I liken it to a “floating hotel” with high-class, 5-star standards.

L-R: Lourdes, the author, Grace, Jandy and Lorraine at the dining area
The lunch buffet

We arrived just in time for a premium gourmet buffet lunch with a wide selection of local traditional Vietnamese dishes, including vegetarian/vegan options, seafood, fish and chicken.  The spacious dining area featured a wooden ceiling, a yellow lighting system and black and white pattern floor tiles. 

Bai Chay Bridge
The Sun Wheel
The cable car tower of Queen Cable Car

We were soon on our way and, as we were dining, we had great panoramic views, from large windows, of the city’s harbor as well as its iconic landmarks such as the breathtaking Sun Wheel (a towering Ferris wheel, with 64 cabins, perched atop Ba Deo Mountain), the Queen Cable Car (known for having the world’s tallest cable car tower and a double-decker cabin) and the Ban Chay Bridge (a unique cable-stayed bridge) and, soon enough, of limestone islands such as Hon Ga Choi, Hon Dinh Huong and Hon Cay Dua.

Bo Hon Island

The first stop in our itinerary was Bo Hon Island where tourists can ride traditional bamboo rafts (a relaxed, local-guided option perfect for families or those wanting to soak in the scenery without paddling) or go kayaking (a self-paced adventure), paddling through the low archway of the natural tunnel of Luon Cave (Hang Luon), into a serene, enclosed lagoon, surrounded by limestone cliffs with lush vegetation, where you can spot rare orchids, ferns and playful golden monkeys.

Tradinional bamboo rafts
Kayaking at Ha Long Bay

Our next stop, also on Bo Hon Island, was Sung Sot Cave/Surprising Cave (Thien Cung Cave), the largest and the most beautiful cave in Ha Long Bay.

Check out “Sung Hot Cave

Sung Hot Cave

After disembarking from the boat, Jandy and I and joined other tourists, from other boats, in exploring the cave’s stunning formations of stalactites and stalagmites and two vast chambers.

Ti Top Island

Our last stop was the 3.7-hectare Ti Top Island, one of the smallest islands making up Ha Long Bay and a not-to-be-missed stopover for tourists in the journey of exploring the bay. Originally called Nghia Dia or Hong Thap Tu, the island was renamed after the Russian cosmonaut Gherman Titov during his visit to Ha Long Bay in 1962. Here, tourist can go swimming along the beautiful, crescent-shaped Vang Trang Beach, with its smooth white sand beach, or hike up 400 steep steps, up a 100-meter high hill, to the island’s peak for spectacular panoramic bay views.

Sunset party at sundeck

Come sunset, a party was held on the sundeck where guests relaxed and served Vietnamese tea, cake, fresh fruits, and snacks.

Sunset at Ha Long Bay

Ambrose Cruises: 173 An Duong Vuong Street, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel/ Whatsapp: +84.987.876.013.  Email: contact@cruise-halong-bay.com.

Sun World Fansipan Legend – The Summit (Sapa, Vietnam)

Mount Fansipan summit

Upon arrival at the Fansipan Cable Car Station, there’s still a little more to go to get to the summit of Mount Fansipan.  We had two options – walking up the remaining 600 steps or, from the Fansipan Cable Car Station, we can walk, for about 10 mins., up a wide stone stairway to reach the Do Quyen Funicular Station and take the 2-min. funicular ride to the Truc May Funicular Station, which will bring us very close to the summit, a good option if you’re tired, short on time, or traveling with kids or elderly family members. We chose the latter.

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Do Quyen Punicular Station

Mount Fansipan, the “Roof of Indochina,” is Vietnam’s and the Indochinese Peninsula’s (comprising Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia) highest peak.  Nestled amid the at the gorgeous part of Hoàng Liên National Park, in Lào Cai province, Northwestern Vietnam, this spectacular mountain, well-known for its lively environment, which is home to unusual flora and wildlife found only in this enchanting region, is located only 9 kms. southwest of the lovely Sa Pa Town.

Jandy and Grace beside the Fansipan steel Pyramid

Its height was originally measured at 3,143 m. (10,312 ft.) but, in 1909, this value was later adjusted to 3,147.3 m. (10,326 ft.). Administratively, it is shared between Tam Đường District, Lai Châu and Sa Pa town.

The author (center) with Grace

The weather in Fansipan varies depending on the height – the higher you climb, the colder you feel.  At the top, the temperature ranges from 5°C (41°F) – 25°C (77°F) in the summer and from 0°C (32°F) – 9°C (48°F) in the winter. The humidity is high, from 66% – 95%, with 2 distinctive seasons – wet and dry season.

Fansipan Flagpole

We arrived in time for the moving 10:30 AM flag-raising ceremony (held from Fridays to Sundays and on major national holidays) at the site of the 25 m. (approximately 82 ft.) high Fansipan Peak Flagpole. An iconic national symbol located at the summit of Mount Fansipan, it is the tallest flagstaff in the region and a major attraction for visitors. 

Getting ready to raise the flag

This national architectural masterpiece, considered a sacred symbol marking Vietnamese national sovereignty and pride, was crafted from sturdy Thanh Hoa blue stone and durable Tu Thiet wood which can withstand the extreme mountain weather conditions. The base of the flagpole features intricate carvings representing various key Vietnamese cultural landmarks and ethnic group traditions, including Cham Towers, stilt houses from the Northwest, and the landscapes of Halong Bay. 

View from the summit

The summit is crowned with the iconic Fansipan Steel Pyramid, a triangular landmark.  A must-have photo for every traveler, this 20-kg. stainless steel pyramid monument, inscribed with “Fansipan 3143m,” is a popular spot for taking photos for tourists as it serves as a landmark to prove that one has reached the highest point in Vietnam and the former French Indochina region.

Cafe du Soleil

The initial metal pyramid was made and installed, on the mountain’s peak, by Soviet engineers from Hòa Bình province, in 1985. The amateur mountaineering expedition was the first since the end of the colonial period and was officially timed to the 40th anniversary of Victory Day of the Soviet Union over Nazi Germany. The current pyramid, installed, according to VCCI,  by a group of Vietnamese travelers in 2008.  It is a replacement for an earlier  original but damaged marble pyramid. 

Grace, Lorraine and Lourdes at Cafe du Soleil

At the nearby Café du Soleil, you can enjoy a warm drink and views of the surrounding mountains and clouds.

Fansipan Peak: Coordinates: 22°18′12″N 103°46′30″E

How to Get There: By car, the 332-km. distance between Hanoi and Sapa take only 4 hours. Sleeper buses, suitable for budget travelers, has a longer transfer time than a car, about 5 hours. The convenient and easy trains, a popular choice as this vehicle allows passengers to enjoy the countryside’s scenery along the way, have the longest transfer time of 8 hours.