Casa Real (Lingayen, Pangasinan)

Casa Real (Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum) of Lingayen

The historic Casa Real (Royal House), located beside the town hall in the heart of Lingayen, Pangasinan, served as the provincial seat of government (where the Alcalde Mayor held office as the Provincial Governor and the Judge of the Court of First Instance) and is one of the oldest public buildings in Pangasinan.

The portico facade

Built in the 1840s, it once served as the seat of the provincial government, from the Spanish Colonial era up to 1918 when the seat of the provincial government was eventually transferred to what is now the Pangasinan Provincial Capitol Building.

2019 National Historical Commission Plaque

On February 16, 1901, after the Taft Commission organized Pangasinan as a civil province,  Judge William Howard Taft and his commissioners went to Lingayen, Pangasinan and were given a grand reception at Casa Real.  In 1919, the building was used as a school and later as offices of the Judge of the Court of First Instance.

In 2002, it was declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP), noted it as “an outstanding and unique example of civil architecture from the Spanish and American colonial periods.”

Casa Real survived the damages brought by World War II. However, the May 2008 Tropical Storm Cosme (international name: Halong) damaged the building, blowing away its heavy roof.

Later, the provincial government of Pangasinan  allotted funds for its renovation and the building was converted into the Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum which was formally inaugurated on September 8, 2023.

Check out “Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum

 

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

The two-storey, 1,480 square meter building has a portico façade, with square Doric columns that support a balcony, and topped by a triangular pediment with an oval keystone window (with spider web grilles) at the center.  Dentils frame the sides of the pediment. The lower storey has circular arched main entrance flanked by large rectangular windows with segmental arches.  Wooden French doors open out to the balcony.

The granite stairway leading to the second floor

The stairway leading to the second floor still retains its original piedra china, granite stones used as ballast for galleons and Chinese junks.  However, the original balusters are gone as they did not survive looting after Typhoon Cosme.  What you see are replacements. The original tin ceiling from Belgium has been replaced with fiberglass reproductions.

Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum: Poblacion, Lingayen, Pangasinan.  Coordinates: 16.019805°N 120.230341°E.

Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum (Lingayen)

Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum

The two-storey, 1,480 sq. m. Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum, rightfully housed in the historic Casa Real (built in the 1840s) beside the town hall in the heart of Lingayen, the capital town of the province, is a collaborative effort between the Provincial Government of Pangasinan and various cultural institutions, with the primary goal of preserving and promoting the province’s cultural legacy.

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Formal opening of the museum on September 8, 2023

Formally inaugurated on September 8, 2023, the name Banaan is derived from the Pangasinense word meaning “meeting place” or “convergence.”  It serves as a storehouse of diverse collection of Pangasinan’s history, heritage, ethnographic as well as contemporary art.

Ancient pottery

Among the collections to be presented in the museum include an assortment of artifacts from Pre-Colonial times such as ancient pottery, tools and ceremonial objects; traditional clothing and accessories, some crafts that will showcase the peculiar identity and customs of local villages; and also some contemporary masterpieces of modern Pangasinan artists.

A bull-drawn cart

The museum features eleven (11) galleries (three in the ground floor) that showcase the story of Pangasinan as a convergence point for culture, history, arts, education and innovation.  Knowledgeable guides lead us through the museum’s collections, providing insights into the region’s history and culture.

“Where the Asin and Bolo Embrace” Gallery at the museum lobby

Our hour-long guided tour of the museum began at the “Where the Asin and Bolo Embrace” Gallery at the Casa Real lobby where Pangasinan’s two major landscapes are featured -a salt farm in Dasol and verdant rice fields with bolo bamboo in the central part.

“Shape of Our Homeland” Gallery

From there, we were led to the “Shape of Our Homeland” Gallery, an orientation room where there are chairs and a huge screen for video showing. It also has maps of the province’s congressional districts and a chart showing the founding dates of the Pangasinan towns and cities.

Contemporary art at the Asin Gallery

The Asin Gallery, the third gallery at the ground floor dedicated for changing exhibits, is an opportune platform to feature local artists and artisans, as well as notable personalities and their contributions in Pangasinan.

Dancing Rings (Joe Datuin, 2008, stainless steel)

Depending on the theme and season, it will feature different art, culture, and history. During our visit, the Kaluyagan (meaning “province mates”) Art Exhibit, featuring works (some of it for sale) by 33 Pangasinense artists, based here and abroad, was ongoing.

“Watered by the Hands of Ama-Gaolay” Gallery

Going up the granite staircase to the second floor, we entered the “Watered by the Hands of Ama-Gaolay” Gallery, the Natural Heritage Room where paintings of Pangasinan’s flora and fauna are displayed.

. The province’s river systems

The province’s river systems are also highlighted.  The Natural History Exhibit, a section dedicated to the region’s biodiversity, features preserved specimens (civet cat, giant clam, etc.), informative displays, and interactive learning stations.

Princess Urduja (Margaret Estelle Blas

The Descendants of Apolaqui Gallery feature myths and legends, such as the Legend of the Hundred Islands plus an painting of Princess Urduja by Margaret Estelle Blas.

World War II artifacts and photo of a war-damaged Provincial Capitol Building

The “Beachhead of Valor” Gallery displays World War II artifacts (helmet, canteen, military patches, etc.), a reproduction of the war-damaged façade of the Provincial Capitol Building and a model of a Japanese Mitsubishi A6M “Zero” fighter hanging on the ceiling. Mounted on the wall is an old photo of the damaged Provincial Capitol Building and wartime newspaper clippings.

Model of a Mitsubishi A6M Zero Fighter hanging under the ceiling

The “Festivals by the Sea and the Fields” Gallery features traditional life and the festivals held by the towns in Pangasinan.

“Pilgrims Who Responded to the Call” Gallery

The “Pilgrims Who Responded to the Call” Gallery delves on the Pangasinense’s religiosity, Our Lady of Manaoag and the religious movement in the 20th century. Here, churches and faith healers are highlighted.

“Patriots and Nation Builders” Gallery

The “Patriots and Nation Builders” Gallery delves on the history and development of the province and the provincial contributions to the national identity of the country.

Salvador Bernal and Fernando Poe Jr.

Featured here are outstanding Pangasinenses such the late President Fidel V. Ramos (from Lingayen); writer and novelist Maria P. Magsano; educator, suffraguette and social worker Geronima T. Pecson (from Lingayen) and Speaker of the House of Representatives Eugenio P. Perez (from San Carlos City).

Victorio Edades and Francisco Sionil Jose

Also given a place of honor are actor, director, producer and National Artist (2006) Fernando Poe Jr. (from San Carlos City); National Artist for Theater and Design (2003) Salvador Bernal (from Dagupan City); painter and National Artist (1976) Victorio C. Edades (from Dagupan City) and writer and National Artist for Literature (2001) Francisco Sionil Jose (from Rosales).

Pantranco Bus

Replica of Manila-Dagupan railway locomotive

The Heritage Exhibits features rich displays of traditional clothing, accessories, and crafts that reflect the unique identity and customs of the local communities.

Replica of Bolinao Skull

Scaled Model of the Casa Real

The other galleries feature hand-embroidered veils; a replica of the Bolinao Skull (with its gold dental ornamentation); scaled models of the Casa Real and Provincial Capitol Building; small replicas of a bahay kubo, a Chinese junk, a Pangasinan Transport Co. (Pantranco) bus, the 0-6-2 side tank locomotive of the Manila-Dagupan Railway and even a bull-drawn cart full of baskets that were sold in a caravan.

Replica of a Chinese junk

To enhance the visitor experience, Banáan also has a carefully curated Gift Shop that offers unique souvenirs, local crafts, books, and artwork.

Gift Shop

Aside from guided tours, Banaan also offers special programs and activities, such as workshops, lecture series and cultural festivals. There are dedicated spaces for educational interactive workshops on traditional crafts, painting, music, and dance, which allow visitors to experience Pangasinan’s living cultural heritage firsthand, as well as for lecture series where invited speakers and experts will share their expertise on various aspects of Pangasinan’s history, archaeology, and culture.

Scaled model of Provincial Capitol Building

Banaan also hosts regular cultural events and festivals showcasing the vibrant traditions and celebrations of the region.

 

Bahay Kubo

Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum: Poblacion, Lingayen, Pangasinan.  Coordinates: 16.019805°N 120.230341°E. Entrance to the museum is via an online reservation system (launched last September 4) incorporated in the “See Pangasinan” website.  The link is promoted through the PTCAO/See Pangasinan Facebook page. Walk-ins are not allowed yet.

Church of St. Isidore the Farmer (Labrador, Pangasinan)

Church of St. Isidore the Farmer

The town’s first church and convent, built with wood, was started in 1771 by Fr. Domingo de San Joaquin and finished in 1776. By 1865, after renovations, it measured 57.4 m. in length and 16.5 m. in width. In 1952, the church underwent repairs of World War II damage.

The church’s interior

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The church’s single level, Baroque facade, topped by a plain triangular pediment, has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by massive square pilasters topped by urn-like finials, and semicircular arched windows.

Above the entrance is a small niche with the statue of St. Isidore the Farmer flanked by semicircular arched windows.  The square bell tower, on the church’s left, is probably a modern addition.

The main altar and retablo

Church of St. Isidore the Farmer: Lingayen-Labrador Road, Poblacion, Labrador 2402. Tel: (075) 549-5055. Feast of St. Isidore the Farmer: May 15.

How to Get There: Labrador is located 359 kms. from Manila.  Within the province, it is located 12.6 kms. from Lingayen, 10.5 kms. from Bugallon and 7.3 kms. from Sual.

Kampana Museum (Lingayen, Pangasinan)

Kampana Museum, probably the only one of its kind in the country

The Kampana (“Bell”) Museum, probably the only museum of its kind in the country, is housed within the compound of the Cathedral of the Epiphany of Our Lord.  It displays an array of six old bells (some dating back to the 1800s) of different sizes (four of them still with their wooden yokes) of the parish on a raised concrete platform within a fenced in, shed-type enclosure.

Check out “Cathedral of the Epiphany of Our Lord

The array of six bells, a number of which are coated with verdigris

During the term of the first Team Ministry (when the “Three Kings” Parish was renamed “Epiphany of Our Lord Parish” in 1965) of the parish (composed of Fr. John R. Palinar, Fr. Jose S. Estrada, Fr. Manuel S. Bravo and Fr. Victor Z. Embuido), these church bells were replaced by new ones (sourced through donations from civic-spirited citizens here and abroad).

 

Bell inscribed with “Isaias Edralin,” probably a parish priest

These old church bells were, in turn, housed in a museum built during the term of the second Team Ministry (composed of Fr. Alberto T. Arenos, Fr. Camilo Natividad and Fr. Jovino Batecan).  The museum was inaugurated on March 31, 2002.

Bell inscribed with “Francisco Treserra,” probably a parish priest

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

Inscriptions on the bells oftentimes indicates the bell’s date of casting, its weight, the name of the saint (San Juan Bautista, Sta. Teresita, Jesus, Maria y Jose, etc.) to which it was dedicated; the name of the town (Lingayen) for which it was commissioned; the name of the parish priest (Francisco Treserra, Isaias Edralin, Felix Sanches, etc.), bishop (Cesar Ma. Guerrero, on February 22, 1929), pope (Pope Pius XI ); when it was cast; and even the name of the bell caster.

A bell inscribed with the names of Lingayen Bishop Cesar Ma. Guerrero and Pope Pius XI

I noticed one bell was cast in 1874, a second in 1883 and another in 1928. One bell is inscribed with “Fundicion de H. Sunico” possibly referring to metalsmith Hilario S. Sunico who cast 176 bells, dated 1872-98. His last known bell was dated 1937.

A bell inscribed with the year “1883”

Many of the bells are wrapped in a blue-green patina due to chemical reaction with air and sea water, over time, that causes copper, brass and bronze to form verdigris.The verdigris layer, which gives the bell its fragile beauty, actually protects the underlying metal from corrosion and degradation, which is why these bells are so durable.

A bell inscribed with “Jesus, Mary and Joseph”

Cathedral of the Epiphany of Our Lord: Poblacion, Lingayen, 2401 Pangasinan.  Tel: (075) 542-6235.

How to Get There: Lingayen is located 227 kms. (a 4.5-hour drive) from Manila and 94.9 kms. (a 3-hour drive) from Baguio City (Benguet).

Church of Our Lady of the Purification (Binmaley, Pangasinan)

Church of Our Lady of Purification

This church, once the largest church in the province during the latter part of the 19th century, was first constructed in the 16th century but burned down in 1745. The succeeding brick church, built towards the west of the former, was begun by Fr. Jose Salvador in 1747 finished by Fr. Francisco Barroso, OP, in 1754.

The right side of the church with some of the original brick facing now exposed

During World War II, the church was heavily damaged (only the walls and the partly damaged bell tower were left after shelling by American warships from January 7-9, 1945) and later rebuilt.

The 5-storey bell tower on the church’s right

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

This church’s 3-level, relatively simple Baroque brick (now plastered over) façade has  semicircular arched main entrance, flanked by semicircular arched windows, at the first level; and a semicircular arched statued niche, flanked by semicircular arched windows, at the second level.

On display in front of the church is a huge 1880 bell that bears the logo Fundicion de Metales de Santos Supangco.

The segmental pediment, separated from the second level by 3 rows of cornices, has a recessed octagonal window (above which is a cornice and a centrally located seal in the tympanumflanked by smaller, recessed octagonal windows. The huge scrolls flowing down from the base of the pediment are typical of the Italian Baroque style.

The 1880 church bell on display outside the church

The 5-storey, square bell tower, on the church’s right, has blind semicircular arched recesses (canopied with triangular segments), at the the first 3 storeys, and semicircular arched open windows at the receding upper levels.  It has 3 bells. One bell, weighing 4,130 pounds and cast in 1804, was once of the three biggest bells in the Philippines.

The main altar and retablo

The church measures 94 m. long and 16.8 m. wide. Juan Fuentes y Yepes, the Bishop of Nueva Segovia, is buried here.  The 35 m. long  transept has a high dome with 4 windows and is supported by 8 elegant columns with Composite capitals. The interior also houses 5 exquisite altars.

The church’s dome

Church of Our Lady of the Purification: Urdaneta Junction, Dagupan–Binmaley Road, Poblacion, Binmaley 2417. Tel: (075) 540-0047.  Feast of Our Lady of Purification: February 2.

How to Get There: Binmaley is located 223 kms. from Manila.

The Famous Salt Beds of Dasol (Pangasinan)

The famous salt beds of Dasol

After our lunch and ocular visit of Dasoland, we again boarded our van to finally make our way back to Manila.  Its been a very busy and educational three days in Pangasinan. However, we haven’t traveled far when we espied the famous salt beds of Dasol.  We therefore stopped along the highway to take pictures of these fascinating man-made creations.  The  province’s name was derived from the word panag-asinan (“place where salt is made”) and Dasol is one of only four Pangasinan towns (the others are Anda, Bani and Bolinao) that produce salt.

Baskets of raw salt

These salt beds, glistening whitely in the late afternoon sun, have sluices that are opened to allow about 3 inches of sea water from  the incoming ocean tides of Dasol Bay to pour into and be trapped in a checkerboard of shallow ponds lined with grayish-brown clay and paved with shards of clay pots, similar to inland rice paddies.  The impounded water is allowed to naturally evaporate in the sun for a few hours, after which thin crusts of salt crystals would form on the surface and sink to the bottom of the pond.  The resulting encrusted salt is then raked, gathered into small neat piles, scooped into baskets and then transferred to a bigger pile in a hut.  The raw salt is then brought to the cooking sheds to be washed, boiled and condensed into pure rock salt. During the rainy season, the salt beds are converted into fish ponds.

Church of the Holy Child (Mabini, Pangasinan)

Church of the Holy Child

The Church of the Holy Child, already in existence in the 19th century, has withstood several natural and man-made calamities over the past decades.  In 1832, a great flood submerged the convent and, in 1852, the church was struck by a lightning. It was repaired by Fr. Mariano Torrente (1858 to 1872) and, after a flood in 1881, by Fr. Epifanio Vergara (1893 to 1898).

The church’s Early Renaissance facade

A strong earthquake on December 12, 1999, destroyed the 1830 church, collapsing the stone walls, facade, and the altar but leaving a few structural components and the foundation intact. In 2005, the church was restored and blessed and, in 2006, the old convent and the parish office were transferred to the other side of the church which used to be a chapel before the restoration of the church.

The altar retablo

The church’s Early Renaissance facade has tall, paired Doric columns on pedestals reaching up to the pediment and flanking the semicircular arch main entrance.  Above it are semicircular arched windows while the pediment has a statued niche flanked by circular windows.  The bell tower is a later addition.

Plaque commemorating the quadricentennial of the parish

Church of the Holy Child: Sto. Niño St., Brgy. Poblacion, Mabini, Pangasinan. Feast of the Holy Child: Third Sunday of January.

How to Get There: Mabini is located 322 kms. from Manila an 54.5 kms. (a 1-hour drive) from Lingayen via the Olongapo-Bugallon Rd..

Balingasay River (Bolinao, Pangasinan)

The clean, multi-awarded Balingasay River


On the way back to the Tourist Center from Enchanted Cave in Bolinao, we made a short stopover at a bridge to photograph the 7-km. long, pristine and now fishpen-free Balingasay River (Brgy. Balingasay),  twice winner of the Gawad Pangulo sa Kapaligiran Award for inland bodies of water in the Ilocos Region and a recipient of the highly prestigious Wetlands Conservation Award in 1994. Set aside as a protected seascape, this river, noted for its scenic beauty and biodiversity, has 15 hectares of century-old and new growth mangroves areas, 30 hectares of of attap palms (used for nipa hut roofing), wild ferns and balete trees hanging into the water.  These protect the river from erosion and pollution.  Different species of wild birds (locally called kiaw and pagaw) also make their home atop the trees and wild ducks, lizards, monkeys and wild boar also make their home in the forest.

Some boats parked at the river mouth

The Balingasay River is fed by Quibuar Spring, Bolinao Falls and several other springs and creeks. Fresh water meets the sea water of the South China Sea toward the middle of the river,  a perfect environment for unique fish (malaga, lapu-lapu, etc.) and shellfish (crabs, shrimps and oysters) species to flourish.  Boats from the bridge can be rented (PhP500) to explore the river which connects 5 villages to the town proper, located 5.5 kms. from the mouth of the river. Aside from regular outrigger boats, some boats that ferry villagers are made, through Filipino ingenuity, from discarded wings of World War II airplanes secured from the former U.S. Naval Base in Subic.  The wings are fitted with bamboo and wood as “balancers” and then wooden seats are installed for 12 people.

Enchanted Cave (Bolinao, Pangasinan)

Enchanted Cave

After our Solomon’s Paradise sojourn, we next proceeded along the road to Enchanted Cave, one of three caves (the others are Cindy’s Cave and Wonderful Cave) in Brgy. Patar in Bolinao.  Located in a private property it is, however, open to the public (in early 2000) but, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee of PhP30 if you’ll just look at the place and take pictures, and PhP40 if you’ll swim.  This was to be my second visit to the cave (the first was in March 2005).  The owner allowed us entry into the premises and, as we were in a rush, skipped the usual orientation by its staff. Along its paved walkway amidst a lush garden and huts, we noticed, mixed with the garden landscape, fossilized remains of giant clams discovered in the hilltop, 2 kms. from the cave, and estimated to be about 2-3 million years old.   The fact that it was a cave made of coral limestone is evidence that the place was under water for millions of years and that the beach head of Bolinao extended almost a kilometer from the current beach line.

Fossilized clams

We then carefully went down, through a small opening with paved steps and railing, to the cave’s 30-m. freshwater (which some say is unusual for a coral cave) pool with cool and crystal clear water. Adequately lit, it was very humid and musty inside.  According to the caretaker, the pool, connected to an underground river, has depths of 3-6 ft., during low tide, and 3-10 ft. during high tide.  Swimmers are restricted by management from entering certain areas clearly marked by ropes.  Some scenes in the 1996 movie Ang Pinakamagandang Babae sa Balat ng Lupa (starring Ruffa Gutierrez) and the popular 2008 GMA 7 telenovela Dyesebel (starring Marian Rivera and Dingdong Dantes) were shot here.  Actor Piolo Pascual was also said to have visited the cave.

Enchanted Cave: Brgy. Patar, Bolinao, Pangasinan.

Abrac Beach and Solomon’s Paradise (Bolinao, Pangasinan)

Abrac Beach

After our Cape Bolinao Lighthouse tour, we proceeded to nearby Abrac Beach for an ocular visit.  This white sand beach, open to the public, has no entrance fee but has native-style picnic huts for rent (PhP150-300) and a number of souvenir shops selling snacks, T-shirts (promoting Bolinao of course), shell handicrafts and other souvenirs.  The Treasures of Bolinao Resort can be seen to the right of the beach.  Going down to the beach from our picnic hut was via a steep berm.

Solomon’s Paradise main building

We next moved on to the 3-km. long Patar Beach where we visited Solomon’s Paradise Bar Grill Resort.  Operated by the nice and friendly Australian Brett Solomon and opened last March 2008, the place truly lived up to its name, being located in a short but very private white sand cove between towering, wave undercut rock formations. Both rock formations have two sea-sculpted caves and each had small huts on top where one could do quiet contemplation while enjoying the invigorating sea breeze and admiring the huge South China Sea waves crashing against the rocky shore, a scene truly reminiscent of the movie “Wuthering Heights.”    

Native-style accommodations

The resort has a main building with roof deck (where you can watch the sunset or dine al fresco) and a well-stocked bar.  Behind it are accommodations for guests consisting of a native-style rowhouse with 3×4 m. fan-cooled rooms (PhP1,600-2,000 for 2 people and PhP2,500-2,900 for 4 people) with common verandah.  In front is a beach volleyball playing area.  Common toillets and baths for guests are located at the main building.  The resort is a 3-min. drive from Cape Bolinao Lighthouse.  Though we arrived at the resort during high surf, during calmer moments guests can swim at private coral-lined “bathtubs” and explore the sea caves.  Maybe next time we could make that happen.

Solomon’s Paradise cove
Solomon’s Paradise Bar Grill Resort: Patar Beach, Abrac, Brgy. Patar, Bolinao, Pangasinan. Mobile numbers: (0905) 398-1470 (Globe) and (0928) 474-8845 (Smart). E-mail: solomonsparadise@yahoo.com.  Website: www.solomonsparadise.multiply.com.