Monthly Archives: October 2022

Bateria (San Esteban, Ilocos Sur)

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Moro Watchtower (Bateria)

Part of Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant-sponsored tour

This old but very pretty, 10.4-m. high, circular Spanish-era watchtower, located on a park at the headland of the sandy cove, is one of four Spanish-era watchtowers in Ilocos Sur (the others are located in Santiago, Narvacan and Bantay).  Visible from Villa Quirino Point, it is the oldest landmark of San Esteban (Ilocos Sur).

Built by Augustinian Fr. Damaso Vieytez OSA (who became the first parish priest of San Esteban in 1848), Don Agustin Santiago and Don Domingo Sumabas, it has a diameter of approximately 8.5 m. and was built with sandstone, lime and mortar.

Historical marker. In my opinion, the 16th century date of construction is wrong. Should be the 19th century

A major landmark of the town, it was also called the Moro Watchtower and is one of the most intact Spanish-era watchtowers in the country.

The free standing concrete platform supported by concrete columns. In the middle is a skylight to illuminate the lower level. The platform is accessed by s steel stairway.

Accessed by a steel stairway, it has one entrance and a crenellated top where a row of cannons were once installed (hence the name bacteria, the Spanish word for “battery”).  Today, only tower viewer binoculars are installed.

View of the lower level from the skylight

The Philippine Tourism Authority ((now the Tourism Infrastructure and Enterprise Zone Authority or TIEZA) has declared it as a Tourism Site and it has been registered in the National Historical Institute (NHI), now the National Historical Commission  of the Philippines (NHCP).   In December 2015 , the National Museum of the Philippines declared it as a National Cultural Treasure (Category I).

The concrete platform with stainless steel railings

In 2016, it was renovated by the National Historical Commission  of the Philippines (NHCP) who, together with the local government, also made improvements of the park including the addition of concrete picnic tables.  The banyan tree which once grew around the tower is now gone.

View of the sea from the watchtower

View of the shoreline and the park

Bateria: Brgy. Bateria, San Esteban, 2706 Ilocos Sur. Admission is free.

Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant: Sabangan Beach, Brgy. Sabangan, Santiago 2707, Ilocos Sur.  Mobile number: (0917) 115-4495 (Globe), (0917) 654-2078 (Globe), (0968) 851-5446 (Smart) and (0955) 773-9793 (Rodrigo’s).  E-mail: hsantiagocovehotel@gmail.com.

Mapisi Rock (Santiago, Ilocos Sur)

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Mapisi Rock

Part of Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant-sponsored tour

Derived from the Ilocano word mapisi meaning “to cut,” Mapisi Rock (or “Biak-na-Bato”) is a towering boulder that has been cut in the middle by natural forces, probably by an earthquake.  The base of the rock has also been undercut by sea waves.

Concrete picnic sheds painted in Santorini blue and white accents

It is located along the white sand Apatot Beach and is just 4 kms. away from the National Highway.

Paved stairs and walkways

 

The area around the rock has been developed into a picnic site, with lighting, paved walkways and stairs plus public toilets and concrete picnic tables and sheds painted in Santorini-inspired colors of blue and white.

The author at Mapisi Rock

Offshore is a small rock formation which resembles a dragon’s head. Mapisi Rock is a favorite of visitors who usually climb the rock for some buwis buhay shots.

The dragon head-like rock formation located offshore

Here, you have great sea views and, come dusk, you can also watch the setting sun from here.

Dusk at Mapisi Rock (photo: Mr. Roel Hoang Manipon)

Mapisi Rock: Brgy. Ambucao, Santiago, Ilocos Sur.  Admission: Php10/pax.

Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant: Sabangan Beach, Brgy. Sabangan, Santiago 2707, Ilocos Sur.  Mobile number: (0917) 115-4495 (Globe), (0917) 654-2078 (Globe), (0968) 851-5446 (Smart) and (0955) 773-9793 (Rodrigo’s).  E-mail: hsantiagocovehotel@gmail.com.

The Inabel Weavers of Sabangan (Santiago, Ilocos Sur)

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Corazon C. Agosto Ethnic Handloom Weaving

Part of Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant-sponsored tour

Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant organizes educational tours for guests and one of their tours includes a visit to the nearby Corazon C. Agosto Ethnic Handloom Weaving which manufactures the strong and colorful inabel (sometimes referred to as abel iloko or simply abel) cloth, one of the many known textiles that come from the weavers of Santiago. The traditional woven product of the Ilocos region, abel  weaving is one of the richest weaving practices in the Philippines.

Abel garments and textiles, characterized by their vivid colors, precisely woven geometric patterns, different variations and the accuracy of the grid designs (woven without any specialized equipment), are some of the most well known in the Philippines. We were welcomed by the 82 year old Ms. Corazon Campilla Agosto (fondly called Manang Cora or Coring) who heads the Sabangan Original Loom Weavers Association, an accredited non-government organization of the proud coastal community that continues to practice weaving traditions passed down from generations of Ilokano weavers.

All the weaving knowledge of Manang Cora dates back to 1941 when, as a little girl, she watched her mother and grandmother working the loom.  She began weaving in 1961 (earning P5 per output at most). In 1975, she decided to independently pursue this business (selling her two pigs for money to use as capital), selling her woven blankets to traders in Vigan.

 

Struggling to make ends meet, she tried out working as a domestic helper in Manila for a year before eventually returning home to continue weaving. To keep the production going, she passed down her knowledge to her own daughter Logelin Quional along with the other female weavers she works with. Even her son-in-law as well as her grandchildren (Aliyah and Aldrix) knows how to weave.

Ms. Corazon “Manang Cora” Agosto

In 1990, Sabangan’s weaving industry experienced an economic boost when former Philippine senator Anna Dominique “Nikki” Coseteng, who had a passion for local weaves, saw the works of Manang Cora and brought them to a wider market. Partnering with the Itneg/Tingguian, she and the Sabangan weavers continues to use their weaving motifs in her products today.

She describes her laborious and technical weaving practice (like many traditional Philippine weaving practices) as tawid-tawid (from the Filipino word tawid meaning “to cross”), showing us just how precise the hand of an inabel weaver is. The process begins with the stage called aggan-ay wherein her loom is readied by placing her warp threads vertically across the structure, allowing her to determine the colors and size of her final cloth.

The next stage, called agpulipol, is where the weaver rolls the thread up using a wooden spindle (called a pulipol) which readies the warp threads for weaving. During the design setting phase (agpili), the weaver inserts the horizontal weft threads into the base so she may start plotting the design. During agabel, the final weaving process, the weaver uses a boat-shaped sikwan (heddle bar) that moves back and forth across the cotton cloth, the swift hands rhythmically pulling the reed toward the beam that adds another row to the design which slowly comes to life.

Kusikus pattern

On display are the expertly crafted final woven products of Mang Cora and the Sabangan weavers, a testament to their skill in mastering the tawid-tawid.  Two of the inabel cloths feature the kusikus, a common pattern created by a weaving process known as binakol (also known as binakel or binakael, from the Ilocano word meaning “twill”) characterized by undulating square grids meant to mimic whirlpool patterns. Sailors use kusikus cloths as masts for their ships, believing the patterns would appease the gods of the sea and protect them from whirlpools.

Kusikus pattern

Another inabel cloth featured the pinilian pattern, a brocade weave (often with different colors of threads) which usually has different motifs woven into its warp, from the tao-tao (human figures), to animals, to sinanbaggak (stars) and mata-mata (eye symbols).

Pinilian pattern featuring sinanbaggak (stars)

Today, there is great appreciation, both locally and globally, for the inabel of Manang Cora and the weavers of the Sabangan Original Loom Weavers Association in Santiago and their weaves have become recognized for their beauty and skill..

Corazon C. Agosto Ethnic Handloom Weaving: Brgy. Sabangan, Santiago, Ilocos Sur.

Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant: Sabangan Beach, Brgy. Sabangan, Santiago 2707, Ilocos Sur.  Mobile number: (0917) 115-4495 (Globe), (0917) 654-2078 (Globe), (0968) 851-5446 (Smart) and (0955) 773-9793 (Rodrigo’s).  E-mail: hsantiagocovehotel@gmail.com.

Casa Byzantina (Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar, Bagac, Bataan)

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Casa Byzantina

Our land tour, via coaster, of Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar (Spanish for “Acuzar’s Philippine Houses”) ended at Casa Byzantina .  Also known as the “Don Lorenzo del Rosario (a signer of the Malolos Constitution and one of the numerous building contractors in Binondo) House,” it is a three-storey, intricately designed mixed-used “floral” bahay na bato (stone house) originally located at the corner of Madrid and Penarrubia Streets at San Nicolas, Binondo, Manila.

Designed in 1890 by Catalan architect Joan Josep Jose Hervas y Arizmendi , it is the only existing building designed by him in the Philippines.

Born in Barcelona, Spain in 1851, architect Joan Josep Jose Hervas y Arizmendi got his degree in 1879 and, from 1892 to 1898, became the municipal architect (or arquitecto municipal) of Sitges and Tortosa in Spain and in Manila, Philippines. Some of his works were private residences such as Casa Perez Samanillo (Circulo Ecuestre at present), owned by the Perez-Samanillos, former Manila residents (they owned the Perez Samanillo building at Escolta, Manila), in 1910, for which he was awarded the 1911 Barcelona City Council Prize.   His other works include Hotel de Oriente and La Insular Fabrica de Tabacos y Cigarillos.  He died in 1912.

The Moorish door transom at the exterior

So called  because of its Byzantine ornamentation, it has a half-moon opening above the large entrance with grill works, arches above the windows of the third floor, engaged columns, and appliqued carvings. However, the house reflects more of the Neo-Mudejar (Spanish-Moorish) architectural style  as seen by its Moorish door transom on the exterior, which is echoed in the interior wooden arches and transom traceries.  A mirador (balcony) crowns the roof above the interior’s stairs with turned balusters. The stairs, leading up to the second and third floors, provides access to both wings of the house.

Media group posing in front of Casa Byzantina

In 1869, as the streets at the commercial concentrations at Binondo and San Nicolas districts in Manila were narrow, corner buildings were mandated to be built with a chamfer (or chaflan) and, in compliance with this municipal building regulation (which also led to the creation of eight-sided open spaces, or plazoletas, at every street corner), the house was built with a chamfered corner.

Historical plaque

Its first storey (which served as commercial spaces) was made of adobe stones and bricks while the two upper storeys (which served as residential spaces) were built with various sturdy Philippine hard woods.  Galvanized iron sheets were used for roofing.

Used as commercial and residential space, during the 20th century, the house was occupied by a succession of tenants. In 1914, it was the first home of the the Instituto de Manila which rented it for elementary and high school classes until 1919 when the institute moved to Sampaloc, Manila, eventually becoming the University of Manila. In 1939, despite its neglected state, it was cited by Tribune magazine.

The hotel lobby

After World War II, the nearby community decayed and the land reclamation for the North Harbor. The old houses became tenements and some were torn down to make way for commercial buildings. Casa Byzantina was leased to various tenants.

By 2000, it was in a miserable condition. After eight years, the house was declared structurally unsound. Yet, despite its condition, more than 50 informal, urban poor families were still occupying the house. In 2009, the house was sold, dismantled, and brought to Bagac, Bataan.

Grand staircase

Now transformed into an elegant first class hotel, it is now considered as the most expensive hotel in the resort. This luxurious six-bedroom accommodation, complete with luxurious amenities, 24/7 butler service and free cocktails, has 7 bathrooms and sleeps 16.

Casa Byzantina: La Casas Filipinas de Acuzar, Brgy. Ibaba, Bagac, 2107 Bataan. Tel: (632) 8833-3333 local 116-117.  Mobile number: (0917) 872-9361. E-mail: reserve@lascasasfilipinas.com. Website: www.lascasasfilipinas.com. Coordinates:  14°36′09.6″N 120°23′06.9″E

How to Get There: It is a three-hour drive from Manila via NLEx and SCTEx. There is a shuttle service plying the Manila-Bataan route daily with New World Hotel Makati and Astoria Plaza as pickup and drop off points. For inquiries, call (63-2) 332-5338 and (63-2) 332-5286. The resort is accessible from the southeast through a two-lane road from the poblacion of Bagac.

Arrival at Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar (Bagac, Bataan)

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Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar

From Le Charme Suites, we all boarded our coaster for the 68-km. (1 hour and 45-min. drive), via the Gov. J.J. Linao National Rd., to Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar (Spanish for “Acuzar’s Philippine Houses”) in Bagac, Bataan province’s newest and certainly most upscale beachside resort.  This beach resort, hotel, convention center and heritage destination rolled into one was designed to resemble a historic Filipino town, was to offer us a taste of the Philippine’s past come to life.

The gated stone entrance, with its keystone jauntily carrying the resort’s elaborate coat-of-arms, welcomed us. The resort, covering an area of around 40 hectares (99 acres), lies in a vast sand-filled estuary bisected near the beach by a small river, with seaside farms stretching off to the north.

Casa Maranao

From the driveway, we espied, across the Umagol River, Casa Maranao, a torogan (a Maranao royal clan house) from Lanao in Mindanao. Built in 1873, it was owned by Sabino Lakowa and its last owner was Dimaawan, the second child of Sabino.  It features panolong, wing-like carvings that flare out from its floor beams, symbolizing the wealth and importance of its occupants.  There are also okir, beautiful carvings that depict the naga (serpent or dragon from Sanskrit literature), and pako rabong amarilis (asymmetrical growing ferns).

Arrival at Casa New Manila

This resort was painstakingly built up in over ten years of intermittent construction.  It has a vast, open-air depository of planks, stone blocks, and tiles salvaged from their original owners or bought from junk shops in Manila.  From these materials, future houses and structures in the complex will be constructed.

Comprised of a collection of several dozen “heritage houses” and buildings, each representing an aspect of national Filipino history, they are an outcome of an organic process of selecting and emplacing salvaged ancestral houses from all over Luzon that were specifically evaluated and chosen based on their individual cultural, historical and architectural value and features.

The buildings at Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar range in style from mansions to wooden stilt houses. With its rear ringed by the forests of nearby Mt. Natib and its front splashed by the South China Sea, these ancient wood, tile and stone structures were given a new lease in life, reincarnated as vacation houses, offices, restaurants, and hotel suites and facilities in Las Casas.

It had its beginnings in 2003 when real estate magnate and architect Jose Rizalino “Jerry” Acuzar, the owner of New San Jose Builders, Inc., decided to open an estate just outside of his hometown of Balanga.  Ultimately settling upon a 400-hectacre tract of land near the fishing village of Bagac, he built a quaint manor home and a series of small cottages.

When he was young, Jerry, on his way to school, had memories of passing by the decaying mansions along F.R. Hidalgo Street in Quiapo.   In 2008, he was fatefully offered parts of a historic home from the Cagayan Valley. Subsequently, in an effort to restore it back to its former glory, he dismantled and reconstructed the building on his estate.

Our raft ((balsa) awaits ….

Later on, he was offered heritage homes that were being sold and he decided to transplant these endangered specimens of colonial heritage architecture to his beachfront property. Acquired and transported from varying locations across the country, each historic structure was meticulously dismantled from their original location before being reassembled and carefully restored inside the premises of the Las Casas Filipinas by a skilled group of architects. In cases where an authentic reconstruction was not possible, materials that were as close to the original were used to complete the project. Needless to say, each building’s legacy is as unique as its architecture.

However, this method of heritage conservation has been contentious among conservationists since they believed that their original communities could have benefitted from the structures had they been restored on site. The heritage park’s proponent Gerry Acuzar claimed that he went with the method in order to save the structures from decay and neglect.

While the estate remained private, many heard about what he was doing and wanted to see his reconstructed heritage houses. Seein an opportunity to make the location accessible to the public, Acuzar continued financing his work in restoring the heritage houses. As Acuzar’s team of artisans grew, the destination gradually expanded into 63 heritage homes and 34 structures built in the style of the historic houses on-site.

In March 2010, Acuzar debuted his private estate as a beach resort, opening it to the public as the Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar and placing it under the management of Genesis Hotels and Resorts Corporation.  It has since established itself as one of the most luxurious holiday destinations in the world, every year hosting hundreds of enthusiastic cultural heritage visitors. In early 2020, due to community quarantine measures imposed in response to the COVID-19 pandemic, Las Casas Filipinas temporarily closed but eventually reopened in July 2020.

The Umangol River

The work accomplished by Acuzar and his team had earned the resort great praise. In 2021, the heritage park was lauded and recognized for its preservation efforts and their continued stewardship by the Department of Tourism, under Secretary Bernadette Romulo-Puyat.  That same year, Historic Hotels Worldwide also bestowed the resort with its Award of Excellence for “Best Historic Hotel in Asia/Pacific.” Since 2017, this fantastic historic resort has been a member of Historic Hotels of America.

View of Casa New Manila across the Umangol River

We first registered ourselves at Casa New Manila, an American-era house built in 1926 by Italian-American Joseph Francisco.  It once stood at Balete Drive for 90 years and was bounded by Espana Extn. (now E. Rodriguez Ave.) and Campanilla, Sampaguita and Ilang-Ilang Sts..  It was later bought by Manuel Alcuas y Tuazon and Rosario Araneta y Zaragoza, scions from two prominent families in Manila. It had wide open verandas (where we had scenic views of the Umagol River and parts of the resort), extended eaves and its original fireplace.  From here, we were to tour the resort by raft.

La Casas Filipinas de Acuzar: Brgy. Ibaba, Bagac, 2107 Bataan. Tel: (632) 8833-3333 local 116-117.  Mobile number: (0917) 872-9361. E-mail: reserve@lascasasfilipinas.com. Website: www.lascasasfilipinas.com. Coordinates:  14°36′09.6″N 120°23′06.9″E.

How to Get There: It is a three-hour drive from Manila via NLEx and SCTEx. There is a shuttle service plying the Manila-Bataan route daily with New World Hotel Makati and Astoria Plaza as pickup and drop off points. For inquiries, call (63-2) 332-5338 and (63-2) 332-5286. The resort is accessible from the southeast through a two-lane road from the poblacion of Bagac.