Category Archives: Ilocos Sur

Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (Narvacan, Ilocos Sur)

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Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub

The Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (NOAH), a very unique adventure camp and outdoor sports complex in Narvacan, Ilocos Sur  founded in 2005, is another reason to visit Ilocos Sur (aside from the Spanish-era Earthquake Baroque churches and the Old World charm of Vigan).

Narvacan Beach

Opened last October 2012 by the local government headed by Mayor Zuriel S. Zaragoza, this one-stop shop offering various extreme activities will surely showcase one’s adventurous side and are very close to the elements: water, wind, earth and fire.

Bantay Abot Hill seen offshore from a Hobie Cat

NOAH hosts the Philippines’ first full-scale Via Ferrata (literally meaning “Iron Road” or “Iron Path”), a vertical 280-meter climb into a steep rock wall of the majestic 1,050-ft. high Bantay Abot Hill designed with the regular tourist in mind – no climbing experience required despite the challenges posed by the cliff face.

Media Tour Group at NOAH

Now a major tourist destination and a significant leap in the transformation of the once sleepy agricultural municipality of Narvacan into an adrenaline junkie’s paradise, NOAH aims to promote tourism and the beauty of the town with its grand, rocky mountains and magnificent view of the sea.

Arko Restaurant

Aside from the Via Ferrata, NOAH’s other attractions are paragliding, Hobie Cat sailing, kitesurfing, windsurfing, 4×4 ATVs, dune buggies, etc..  It also has an in-house, beachfront restaurant (Arko Restaurant) which is the first establishment that will greet you along Sulvec Port Road. It serves both local and foreign dishes including Ilocos Sur’s very popular bagnet (deep-fried, crispy pork belly).  Its backyard is a campsite (Php150/tent).  There’s a “sustainable” bunk for bonfires and outdoor toilet and bathing facilities.

Windsurfing lessons by the beach

For those learning to sail, wind surf and kite surf (the “water” activity), the uniquely located Bantay Abot Hill, directly in front of a 3 km. stretch of beach (from the abandoned Sulvec Port all the way to the Narvacan River), causes a special wrap-around, mid-day, side shore wind in the land breeze, making it safe (you still have to wear a life vest) as it does not pose the danger of getting blown out into the open sea.

The author trying his hand at windsurfing

Though fun, windsurfing isn’t easy as the sail gets heavy when wet and, when the wind hits, its much harder to control the boom and pull it back to your body. You can enjoy the sea breeze and the offshore scenery via Hobie Cat sailing. Cost is Php2,500 for windsurfing plus lessons (6 hours), Php800/30mins. for the Hobie Cat (maximum 2 pax) with a pilot and introduction to sailing, and Php800/hr. for windsurf board rental.

Thea author (left) with blogger Dave Gatensby on board a Hobie Cat

Riding dune buggies, 4 x 4 jeeps and ATVs (drivers must have a driver’s license), considered the “fire” activity, can bring out the Mad Max in you as you follow the hilly track and explore the mini sand dunes via an exhilarating, off-road experience tailor fit for first time riders. Starting from the Rock Garden (a luxurious beachfront event place), a number of ramps provided lots of thrills. Cost is Php2,500 per 4 x 4 (5 pax  maximum capacity).

Off road driving (photo: www.solitarywanderer.com)

To climb the Via Ferrata (the “earth” activity), you have to have to no fear of heights and be reasonably fit, with strong legs and upper body to do it. First, you have to don, with the assistance of the staff, protective gear such as helmet and other rappelling and climbing gears (carabineers, harness, etc.), all high-quality equipment from abroad.  Bring bottled water. Then you have to hike, under the scorching sun, to the base of Bantay Abot.  From there, you have to pull ourselves up 150 m. to get above some boulders.

Climbing Bantay Abot Hill

Along the way are handy ropes and cables. While climbing, your two carabineers are actually clamped into a steel cable so that, when you slip, you will still be attached to the cable, saving one from a fall. Upon reaching the zipline platform, you have decide to proceed with the Via Ferrata or exit the hill via NOAH’s 520 m. long zipline.

The author atop Bantay Abot Hill

Moving at 40 kph, a zipline ride lasts about 50 seconds (it’s a bit slow near the end) as you zipped down, with a bird’s eye view of the beautiful scenery, to Arko and the Bay Boulevard.

The author getting ready to zipline down

Others who continue on with the trickier Via Ferrata, climb the vertical, 300-foot high rock face aided by steel steps drilled into the rock, a setup like climbing a step-ladder.  This is not a totally vertical climb as there are diagonal portions on the Via Ferrata that require spreading your legs wide to maintain balance and keep them upright. Reaching the top is the highlight of the climb.

The Via Ferrata (photo: www.solitarywanderer.com)

You descend the summit by rappelling via a Tyrolean traverse cable (100 ft.) – perfectly safe as its safety feature actually allowed one to let go of their hands even when suspended 200 ft. from the ground. The Full Mountain Adventure (Via Ferrata, Tyrolean Traverse and the zipline going back to camp) will cost Php800/pax. Php300 for zipline only.

The Tyrolean Traverse

The highlight of a NOAH experience has to be the “air activity of paragliding (hence the media launch theme “Love is in the Air”), a competitive as well as recreational sport. Wind conditions change throughout the day and there may be several windows within the day for a successful launch.

The author (in blue) getting ready to paraglide with Carlaa Montero of Sarangani Paraglide as my pilot

Participants (again, you should not have any fear of heights) ride pickup trucks or buggies, along a zigzagging dirt road, to the top of Bantay Abot to be followed later by the paragliding gear.

Up, up and away…..

Participants will have to fly tandem with experienced pilots.  You are both positioned along the slope, with the chute spread out above and, when the wind rushes in, you both run off the heights and become airborne, hundreds of feet up, as you fly into the setting sun.

Selfie while airborne

Exhilaration rushes as you savor the joy of flying, at the same time being mesmerized by the beautiful and breathtaking vista of the rugged Ilocos Sur landscape, mountain ranges and the vast blue West Philippine Sea spread out before you.  After a 15-minute flight, you make a solid landing at the beach.. Check out my paragliding video here.

View from the air…..

Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (NOAH): Bulanos Beach, Brgy. Bulanos, Narvacan, Ilocos Sur. Tel: (02) 734-8883. Mobile number: (0919) 349-8473 (Two-6 Olangco).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/NarvacanOutdoorAdventureHub/. Instagram: @narvacanoutdooradventurehub.

How to Get There: By public transport, take any Vigan City (Ilocos Sur) or Laoag City (Ilocos Norte) bound Partas  (Cubao) or Farinas Transit (Manila) bus and tell the driver to drop you off at the Sulvec Port Road and, from there, get a tricycle going to NOAH in Bantay Abot. By car, take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), and Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway (TPLEX) or the Manila North Road until you reach Narvacan. From there, take the Sulvec Port Road on the left and go straight until you see NOAH’s Arko Restauarant on your right.

Baluarte Zoo (Vigan City, Ilocos Sur)

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Baluarte Zoo

Baluarte Zoo

It was our last day in Ilocos Sur and, as we still had a whole day for sightseeing prior to our evening departure for Manila, we decided to visit Baluarte Zoo, former Ilocos Sur Gov. Luis “Chavit” Singson’s home in Vigan City and one of the top tourist destinations in Ilocos Sur.  Along the highway in Napo, Magsingal, we took a bus or the 13-km./25-min. ride to Vigan City proper.

Zoo entrance

Zoo entrance

From the city proper, we all boarded two tricycles for the 10-min. ride to Baluarte. As it was Holy Week, there was a traffic queue as we neared the entrance so we alighted, paid our fare, and walked the rest of the way.  Prior to entering, we had lunch at an eatery just outside the zoo. Entrance to the zoo was free.

Zoo rates

Zoo rates

Zoo Map

Zoo map

The approximately 80-hectare Baluarte Zoo, where Chavit’s numerous pets can be found, sits on a hill that provides an awesome panoramic view of Vigan City. This interactive free-roaming animal sanctuary is home to albino and spotted deer; miniature horses; impalas; one-humped camels; goats; zebras; ostriches; monkeys; llamas and buffalo plus a slew of bird species, from the common African love birds, ducks, swans, midget chickens and parrots to the more exotic hornbills.

Spotted Deer

Spotted Deer

Zebras

Zebras

For caged animals, they have some reptiles like snakes, iguanas, monitor lizards, pythons, crocodiles and then there’s Bengal tigers and birds such as eagles, owls and peacocks.  Baluarte also features live daily animal shows (three times a day, 10 AM, 2 PM an 4 PM) and tell times when audiences are introduced to the animals.

Ostriches (2)

Free roaming ostriches

There’s also a petting zoo, a butterfly garden inside the garden where one can observe and have a more serene interaction with thousands of butterflies, some endemic to the Philippines; a track or horse riding; a skeet shooting range and a chapel, among others.

Chapel

Chapel

Singson's gold-clad resthouse

Singson’s gold-clad resthouse

The gold-clad building (called by locals as the “Golden Building”), topped with a burning bush sculpture up its roof, is Chavit’s personal multi-storey rest house which has a grand view of Vigan and the West Philippine Sea.

Singson's "Yellow Submarine"

Singson’s “Yellow Submarine”

Within the grounds, we had a glimpse of Chavit’s personal and functional one-man mini-submarine with its iconic yellow color (one can easily hazard a guess on what its name is), said to have been used by Chavit to track treasures during his free time. Kids will definitely enjoy the Jurassic Park background because of those life-size concrete dinosaurs. There was also a safari tour, using a long-seater golf cart, with a minimal fee of Php20 per person.

Life-size concrete dinosaurs

Life-size concrete dinosaurs

To interact and get a close encounter with the animals you can, for a price, also ride some ostriches, horses and ponies and can touch or carry an anaconda (PhP20) and iguana (PhP20). For a closer encounter with parrots and hornbills, visitors may choose to openly approach and feed them with bananas and seeds in a more open area. Each animal has there own designated attendant. The place also has souvenir shops (T-shirts, key chains, ref magnets, etc.) and food outlet.

Souvenir shop

Souvenir shop

The climax of our visit to the place is the Safari Gallery perched on top of the hill.  It houses a collection of deer heads (and other few animals) hanging on the wall; the collection of stuffed animals such as a lion, Bengal tiger, wildebeasts, bison, bear, buffalo, gazelles, elephant, sheep, and so many more killed in his safari adventures (paintings and photos of Chavit beside the dead animal are also posted).

Safari Gallery

Safari Gallery

Some are just skins of these wild animals. While I do not like the idea of killing these animals, it still looks awesome looking at them preserved and mounted. It is also well maintained with properly labeled items.

Stuffed animals at the Safari Gallery

Stuffed animals at the Safari Gallery

Melissa and Albert also tried out the Water Walking Ball (PhP50/pax/15 mins.), a large inflatable sphere that allows a person inside it to walk across the surface of a pool of water. Before leaving, Almira and Jandy tried out the tiburin ride, a rickshaw driven by a miniature horse. It allowed them a close-up view of the free roaming animals.

Water Walking Ball

Water Walking Ball

From Friday to Sunday, 6 – 9 PM (last entry 8:30 PM) there is a Night Zoo. Admission: (Discovery Trail): PhP50 for adults, PhP20 for children and PhP40 for senior citizens and persons with disability.  Tram on Tour:  PhP100 for adults, PhP40 for children and PhP80 for senior citizens and persons with disability. On weekends, from 7 – 8:30 PM, there’s  a Sala ti Darang (The Art of Fire Dancing) show.

Almira and Jandy's tiburin ride

Almira and Jandy’s tiburin ride

Baluarte Zoo: Brgy. Salindeg, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur.  Tel: (077) 722-7186. Open daily, 8 AM – 5 PM (last entry 4:30 PM).

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman (Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur)

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Church of St. Dominic of Guzman

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman

This church was built in 1762 by Dominican Father Jose Millan.  Father Miguel Padilla (parish priest from 1825 to 1869) made many improvements on the church and, in 1939, Monsignor Crisanto Padernal plastered and painted the church. Both bell tower and presbytery were damaged and rectory completely ruined by the earthquakes of June 12 and 22, 1957. The present bell tower has a base foundation of 9 m.. Diego Silang, leader of the 1762 Ilocano Revolt, was a bell ringer here.

The Baroque-style facade

The Baroque-style facade

Its protruding Baroque façade, divided into two levels by a string course, has a segmental arched main entrance flanked by superpositioned coupled Doric columns on pedestals. Above the entrance is a statue of St. Dominic of Guzman and a blind, wing-like arch with decorative moldings following its outline.

Blind, wing-like arch

Blind, wing-like arch

Lancet windows at the sides

Lancet windows at the sides

Above this ensemble is a two-level bell tower with semicircular arch openings. The receding side walls of this central segment have square pilasters topped by urn-like finials. The sides of the church have lancet windows.

The modern church interior

The modern church interior

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman: Manila North Road, Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur. Tel: (077) 726-3932. Feast of St. Dominic of Guzman: August 8.

How to Get There: Sto. Domingo is located 413.85 kms.(an 8-hour drive) from Manila and 12.7 kms. (a 25-min. drive) from Vigan City.

Stopover – Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentino (Sinait, Ilocos Sur)

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About 8 kms. after Cabugao, we entered the town of Sinait, the last Ilocos Sur town before entering the province of Ilocos Norte.  Here, we all made a longer stopover at the Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentino.  This church, damaged during the earthquake of 1620, was burned in 1760 and finished between 1760 and 1822.  It was restored by Fr. Celestino Paniagua (parish priest from 1889 to 1895).  Damaged by typhoon in 1953, the church was repaired in 1960 by Fr. Raymundo Garcia.

Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentino

The church has a massive, stucco-cement Neo-Classic and Baroque facade with no openings and flanked by 2 almost square twin bell towers.  The simple arched main entrance, flanked by two pilasters, has a rectangular window above it flanked by two small occoli decorated along the outer edges.  Above it is a small niche. A wooden tablet, carved with the Spanish coat-of-arms, is above the main door.  The quaint Moorish-inspired belfries have 2 levels, topped by balustrades, with one semicircular blind opening at the second level.

The church interior

The church houses the miraculous 17th century, life-size crucifix of the Black Nazarene or Santo Cristo de Sinait.

According to a long-lost manuscript, written between 1731 and 1734, this crucifix was found by some Sinait fishermen in 1620 floating along the coast of Sitio Lugao, Dadalaquitan Norte, in a casket together with the image of La Virgen Milagrosa de Badoc and was immediately placed inside the church.

Carved in hardwood and 18 feet long, it has a rich brown color and an impressive countenance. The sanctuary became famous throughout the Ilocos and devotion to the image was tirelessly spread in 1754 by Father Juan Dominguez.  It is believed to have aborted a plague that hit Vigan in 1756 and according to residents, still perspires sweet-scented oil.  A replica was recently installed by parish priest, Fr. Raymundo Garcia, at the spot where the statue was supposedly found

Church of St. Mark the Evangelist (Cabugao, Ilocos Sur)

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About 13 kms. past Magsingal, after the town of San Juan, I again made a short stopover at the town of Cabugao to photograph the roadside Church of St. Mark the Evangelist.  Built from 1695 to 1696 by Fr. Andres Canalejo, this church was reinforced in 1824, finished by Fr. Juan Zugasti between 1817 and 1834, seriously damaged in 1870, restored by Fr. Saturnino Pinto, damaged during the 1880 earthquake and restored by Fr. Juan Zallo.  It was damaged by a fire in 1965.

Church of St. Mark the Evangelist

This church’s scantily decorated Baroque facade, divided into 2 levels, has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by paired Doric columns and blind segmented windows on the first level, semicircular arched windows on the second level.  Its broken  pediment,  with crestings on the raking cornice, is topped by a domed turret.  On its left is a 5-storey bell tower.

Magsingal Cultural Museum (Magsingal, Ilocos Sur)

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We finally left Vigan City by 1 PM and, 11.2 kms. out of the city, past the towns of San Ildelfonso and Sto. Domingo, we made a short stopover at the the Magsingal Cultural Museum, also called the Museum of Ilocano Culture and Artifacts.  Managed by the National Museum, parts of its displays are housed within the ruins of the town’s former Church of St. William.

The old church was started in 1662 by Fr. Alonso Cortes, finished in 1723, destroyed by earthquake soon after, rebuilt in 1730 and then burned by the rebel forces of Diego Silang.  Only the intact bell tower and part of the ruined walls remain.  On October 1982, it was restored and transformed into a museum housing the private collection of the late Mr. Angel Cortez (former curator of the Magsingal Museum).

It showcases the material culture of Northern Luzon.  The curator’s house across the street displays Neolithic tools, excavated porcelain and earthenware, antique santos, weapons and implements, baskets and headgear and old parish records.

Magsingal Cultural Museum: National Highway, Magsingal, Ilocos Sur. Open daily, 9-11:30 AM and 1:30-4:30 PM.  Visit is by appointment. Admission is free.

Archdiocesan Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle (Vigan City, Ilocos Sur)

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The next day,  I ate a late breakfast of Vigan longanisa (Ilocano pork sausages) with egg, watching out the window as Frank’s wife Cherry, my nieces Jaja and Sandy and nephew Gelo, as well as Tellie’s daughter Mandy (with her yayas) enjoyed a horse-drawn ride in a calesa, a truly unique way to tour the city.

Sandy and Jaja on board a calesa

After breakfast, we all made our way to the cream and white Vigan Cathedral, officially called the Archdiocesan Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle, to hear the 10 AM mass, it being Palm Sunday.  Mena Crisologo, that early morning, was quite impressive as the diffused light transformed the buildings and street into a scene straight out of 18th century Vigan.

Vigan Cathedral

The Earthquake Baroque-style cathedral was started in 1790 and was completed in 1800.   Inside are 3 naves, 12 altars and a choir loft.  Chinese influence is seen in the baptistery, altar, brass communion handrails, a pair of Fu dogs and stylized moldings carved about the exterior doors.  Most of the original church paraphernalia and artifacts are still in place.  The main altar has beaten silver panels.  Its octagonal Italian Baroque bell tower, on a square base, was built from 1790 to 1800 and stands, separately, 15 m. south of the cathedral, in Plaza Burgos.

National Museum (Vigan City, Ilocos Sur)

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It was now  late in the afternoon and I still had time for a visit to the 2-storey, 422-sq. m. National Museum, formerly the Ayala Museum and Library.  This house, built in 1788, was the former birthplace and colonial residence of martyred priest Fr. Jose A. Burgos.  At its ground floor is a Hall of Fame of Ilocano heroes and achievers, dioramas of local historical events (Tobacco Monopoly in 1782, Paoay Church Construction in 1704, Gomburza Execution, Battle of Tirad Pass, etc.), Filipiniana costumes, and Tingguian, looms for abel weaving, farming and fishing implements and Ilocano ethnic arts and crafts (burnay products, etc.).  There are also scaled models of two trading ships.  The first, a pichili trading junk, also called the Shantung junk, is regarded as the oldest type of Chinese sea junk used in fishing and trading.   Its actual length was 150 ft. and it stood 14 ft. high.  The second was that of a Japanese vessel that trade in Luzon from 1596 to 1615.  Around the models are trade ceramics.

National Museum
Upstairs are antique collections and memorabilia of the Burgos family such as Vienna furniture (beds, mirrors, divans, dining chairs, pianos, etc.) plus an old harp, gramophone, old telephones and other period pieces and heirlooms. On the walls are a priceless collection of 14 Esteban Villanueva canvasses. Esteban Villanueva was a businessman and unschooled painter from Vigan who depicted bloody events of the 1807 Basi Revolt in 14 36 by 36-inch frames.  At one time they were owned by Buenaventura Bello, a former president of the Ilocano Historical Association.  Until a few years ago, the paintings remained unrestored but a contemporary artist was commissioned to retouch them.  In spite of this, the painter’s original style is noticeable: details of costume and face, lack of perspective, the composition of the groups, ominous comets and even the little horse.  All were signed “E. Villanueva.”

I made it back to the inn before nightfall, joining Grace and Jandy for a sumptuous dinner of crispy okoy (flaky shrimp cakes) and pansit at the inn’s coffee shop.  Once filled, I finally decided to hit the sack for a well-deserved shuteye.

National Museum: cor. Plaza Singson Encarnacion and Burgos St., Vigan City, Ilocos Sur.       Open Tuesdays to Saturdays, 8:30 to 11:30 AM and 1:30 to 4:30 PM.  Weekend and holidays are by appointment.  Admission: PhP10 per adult and PhP5 for children (12 years and below).

Simbahan a Bassit Cemetery (Vigan City, Ilocos Sur)

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From Plaza Saalcedo, I next drove to the Simbahan a Bassit (meaning “small church”) Cemetery, which contains the graves of the town’s eminent families.  It has a cemetery chapel, one of the interesting religious heritage structures in the country.  Located within a camposanto, very few of these remain in the country today and many are in a sad state of deterioration.   This well-preserved chapel, done in the Neo-Classical style, has a facade supported by rectangular columns and adorned with a pair of Baroque-style volutes and some floral details.

Simbahan a Bassit Chapel

Started in 1610, it was probably the first church built with permanent materials in the Ilocos. Blessed on November 9, 1852, it it also has an espadaña (a wall with holes in which bells are hung), the only one of its kind in the entire Ilocos region.  Its floors, made mostly of granite slabs, were mostly used as ballast by Chinese trading junks left behind on the return trip to China.  The chapel houses a statue of the Crucified Christ behind the main altar.  Almost as old as the church itself, the image is reverently called Apo Lakay (Ilocano for “old man”) and is renowned for its miracle cures.


Simbahan a Bassit Cemetery: Quezon Ave., Liberation Blvd., Vigan City, Ilocos Sur.

Arzobispado (Vigan City, Ilocos Sur)

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From Bantay, I returned to Vigan and dropped by the Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul and its adjacent Arzobispado, the official residence of the Archbishop of Nueva Segovia.  The latter, the only surviving 18th century archbishop’s residence in the country, was built from 1783 to 1790.  In 1898, it served as the headquarters of Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo and, in 1899, as headquarters for American forces under Col. James Parker.  

The Arzobispado

The Arzobispado features sliding capiz windows and cut out decorations with floral motifs. The Museo San Pablo, beside the Arzobispado, showcases ecclesiastical artifacts, antique portraits of bishops, a throne room, archdiocesan archives and other religious paraphernalia gathered from various colonial churches all over the province.  

Museo San Pablo: Open Fridays-Wednesdays.  Admission is PhP5 for students and PhP10 for non-students.  Pre-arranged tours are allowed.