Versailles Palace – Grand Gallery (France)

Visitor headed for the Hall of Mirrors from the Salon of War

The Grand Gallery (Grande Galerie) is a set of three highly decorated reception rooms, dedicated to the celebration of the political and military successes of Louis XIV, and used for important ceremonies, celebrations and receptions.The grandiose ensemble of the Hall of Mirrors, and the adjoining Salon of War and Salon of Peace, were intended to illustrate the power of the absolutist monarch Louis XIV.

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Both salons are accessible, via the Hall of Mirrors, through wide opening passageways. The Hall and the two Salons, identically furnished and decorated, form a stylistic and functional unit. The exterior walls of the Salons date from the time of Louis Le Vau‘s encasings of the old château. They were given their current appearance after the installation of the Hall of Mirrors by Jules Hardouin-Mansart.

Hall of Mirrors

The vaunted  Hall of Mirrors (Galerie des Glaces), perhaps the most celebrated room in the château of Versailles, was the setting for many of the ceremonies of the French Court during the Ancien Régime. It has inspired numerous copies and renditions throughout the world and the Proclamation of the German Empire occurred here.

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Salon of War

The Salon of War (Salon de la Guerre), commemorating the victorious military campaign of Louis XIV against the Dutch, Spanish and Germans  (which ended in 1678 with the peace treaties of Nijmegen), was begun by Jules Hardouin-Mansart (the First Architect to the King) in 1678 and its decoration was completed by Le Brun in 1686. Its walls are covered with marble panels decorated with six trophies of weapons in gilded bronze.

Sculpted Medallion of Louis XIV

Its centerpiece, on the wall adjacent to the Apollo Room , is an enormous oval sculpted medallion, created by Antoine Coysevox, surmounted by two golden sculptures of Pheme and supported by two captives in chains huddle beneath it.

Golden Sculptures of Pheme

A bas-relief, in stucco, depicts Louis XIV on horseback, trampling on his enemies while crossing the Rhine in 1672. Beneath, concealing the opening of a false chimney of a fake fireplace, is the bas-relief of Clio, the Muse of History, recording the king’s great deeds and exploits for posterity.

Bas-relief of Clio, the Muse of History

The dome cupola ceiling represents, in the center, a personified depiction of France, armed, sitting on a cloud and surrounded by Victories, a portrait of Louis XIV adorning her shield.

Ceiling painting

In the arches are represented his three defeated enemiesGermany (represented by a kneeling eagle), Spain making threats with a roaring lion; and Holland overthrown on another lion. The fourth arch represents Bellona, the Goddess of War, in a rage of fury between Rebellion and Discord.

Fresco at the arch

The Salon of Peace (Salon de la Paix), symmetrical to the Salon of War, contains the same marble panel decoration and chased trophies of weapons of gilded and chiseled bronzes. However, Le Brun decorated the cupola and arches to illustrate the role of France as the arbiter and peacemaker of Europe under Louis XV. The painting on the ceiling, Louis XV offering an olive branch to Europe by François Lemoyne, illustrates the theme of peace.

Salon of Peace – Louis XV offering an olive branch to Europe (François Lemoyne)

From the beginning of Louis XIV’s reign, this room was separated from the Hall of Mirrors by a movable partition and was considered part of the Queen’s Apartment, constituting the final room after the Queen’s Chamber. However, when required, the partition separating the room from the Hall of Mirrors was removed and the room formed part of the King’s State Apartment.

Each Sunday, during the reign of Louis XV, Marie Leszczyńska, the Queen, used this salon as a music room, organizing concerts of secular and religious music, playing an important role in musical life in Versailles and which were continued, during the subsequent reign, by Marie-Antoinette.

Hall of Mirrors: Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1)from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com.

Versailles Palace – State Apartments of the King (France)

Salon of Mercury

The State Apartments of the King, a prestigious series of seven rooms (Salon of Hercules, Salon of Diana, Salon of Abundance, Salon of Venus, Salon of Mars, Salon of Mercury and Salon of Apollo), was used as a parade apartment for hosting the sovereign’s official acts. Bedecked with lavish Italian-style decoration much admired by the king at the time, it was composed of marble panelling and painted ceilings.

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The author at the Salon of Hercules

During the day, the State Apartment was open to all who wished to see the king and the royal family passing through on their way to the chapel. Several times a week, during the reign of Louis XIV, evening gatherings were held here.

Salon of Abundance

The State Apartments were originally intended as the King’s residence. The construction of the Hall of Mirrors, between 1678 and 1686, coincided with a major alteration to the State Apartment and the King transformed them into galleries for his finest paintings, and venues for his many receptions for courtiers usually held three times a week, from six to ten in the evening, with various entertainments during the season from All-Saints Day in November until Easter.

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The Salon of Hercules

From the Royal Chapel, we entered a vestibule that led us to the Salon of Hercules, the last room to be built by Louis XIV at the end of his reign.  Originally a chapel covering two floors, it served until 1710 when it was replaced by the current Royal Chapel.  Beginning in 1712, it was rebuilt, under the supervision of the First Architect of the King, Robert de Cotte.

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Jandy at the Salon of Hercules

To create a new room, a floor was laid but the decoration was not finished until the reign of Louis XV who, in 1730, brought the huge painting by Paolo Veronese, The Meal in the House of Simon the Pharisee, to Paris from the Gobelins, where it had been stored since its arrival in France as a gift from the Republic of Venice to Louis XIV in 1664.

Rebecca at the Well (Paolo Veronese, second half of the 16th century)

In 1736, work on the Hercules Room was completed when The Apotheosis of Hercules (after whom the room was named), a ceiling painting by François Lemoyne was finished.

Apotheosis of Hercules (François Le Moyne)

This vast, impressive and allegorical work, considered at par with masterpieces by Italian fresco painters, depicted no fewer than 142 persons and was created using the marouflage technique wherein the scenes were painted on canvas and then stuck onto the ceiling.

Meal in the House of Simon the Pharisee (Paolo Veronese, 1570)

In return for his work, Lemoyne was made First Painter to the King by Louis XV but he committed suicide a year later, in 1737, exhausted by this huge project which had taken four years to complete.

Salon of Abundance

The Salon of Abundance, a refreshment room where coffee, wines and liqueurs were served on an elegant tables and gilded chairs lined with green velvet during evening soirées, was also the antechamber to the Cabinet of Curios or Room of Rare Objects (now the Games Room of the King or le salon de jeux du roi) which could be entered through the end door.

Goddesses of Abundance and Liberality (René-Antoine Houasse, 1683)

It displayed Louis XIV’s collection of precious jewels, silverware vases, medallions and other rare objects (of which nothing remains) which he liked to show his privileged guests.  The room was restored in 1955.

The Duke of Burgundy (Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1704)

Portrait of King Louis XV (Hyacinthe Rigaud)

These served as a source of inspiration for the decoration of René-Antoine Houasse‘s painting Goddesses of Abundance and Liberality (1683) located on the ceiling over the door opposite the windows. It includes a depiction of the King’s Vessel over the door.

Portrait of King Philip V(left) and Portrait of Louis of France, Dauphin (right), both done by Hyacinthe Rigaud.

The precious King’s Vessel,  in the form of a mastless ship which was placed on the king’s table during important occasions or on the sideboard,  contained the sovereign’s serviette and was a symbol of power which had to be hailed by everyone who passed by.

Salon of Venus

Along with the Salon of Diana, the Salon of Venus, because it was at the top of the great staircase known as the “Ambassadors’ Staircase,” is one of the main entrances used by courtiers to get to the King and Queen’s Grand Apartments. Prior to it being destroyed in 1752 to make more room, the Ambassador’s Staircase ended here. Like some of the other rooms, this room was named after a planet, following a running theme linked to sun mythology which inspired the decoration in Versailles during the 1670s.

Statue of Louis XiV (Jean Warin)

The Salon of Venus was used during so-called “evening soirees” (social gatherings for specially invited courtiers) when the salon was lit by two very large chandeliers and eight smaller chandeliers of crystal and filled with small tables, chairs lined with green velvet and laced with gold, and either huge bouquets of flowers or pyramids of rare, exotic fruit such as oranges and lemons. Sometimes, light meals such as marzipan and crystallized fruit were served.

Ceiling frescos

Featuring the highest level of the Baroque style of all the state apartments, it is the only place where Charles Le Brun created dialogue between the architecture, sculptures and paintings (sometimes real and sometimes fake) such as the marble pilasters and columns created through perspective paintings by Jacques Rousseau, and the two trompe l’oeil , life-size statues of Louis XIV (in the costume of a Roman emperor) near the windows, by Jean Warin.

Venus Subjugating the Gods and Powers (René-Antoine Houasse)

On the ceiling in a gilded oval frame, is Venus Subjugating the Gods and Powers (1672-1681), another painting by René-Antoine Houasse, featuring the planet Venus along with symbols associated with the Goddess of Love (same name in Greek mythology).

Around the ceiling are trompe l’oeil paintings and sculpture illustrating mythological themes. The paintings decorating the arches and moldings show great men or heroes from the Antiquity, some of them related to Venus while others to Louis XIV himself, whose actions, inspired by the goddess, often alluded, more or less obviously, to the deeds of Louis XIV. For example, the arch depicting Alexander the Great, marrying Roxana, evokes the king’s own wedding while the arch illustrating Emperor Augustus, watching Roman circus games, refers to the carousel held in honor of Queen Maria Theresa in 1662.

Salon of Diana

Like the Salon of Venus, the Salon of Diana served as a vestibule to the King’s State Apartment. Used by Louis XIV as a billiards room, it had galleries, with two tiers of seating installed, from which courtiers could watch the king, who was very skilled, play. On display here is the celebrated bust of Louis XIV by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, made during the famous sculptor’s visit to France in 1665.

Bust of Louis XIV (Gian Lorenzo Bernini, at center)

The decoration of the walls and ceiling depicts scenes from the life of the goddess Diana who, in ancient Greek mythology, was the goddess of the hunt, the sister of Apollo (the sun god), and was also associated with the moon. The ceiling’s central section, painted by Gabriel Blanchard, depicts goddess watching over navigation and hunting scenes.

Fireplace

The arches, also illustrating the themes of navigation and hunting, celebrates Louis XIV’s cynegetic taste; hunting with Cyrus Hunting the Wild Boar by Claude Audran the Younger and Alexander Hunting the Lion, by Charles de La Fosse;  and  navigation by making allusions to the royal navy, which was undergoing considerable expansion by Colbert at the time, with Julius Cesar Sending Roman settlers to Carthage by Claude Audran the Younger and Jason and the Argonautes, by Charles de La Fosse.

Diana and Endymion (Gabriel Blanchard)

The painting The Sacrifice of Iphigenia (1680), by Charles de La Fosse, over the fireplace shows the last-minute intervention by Diana.  Opposite, above the console, is Diana and Endymion, a painting by Gabriel Blanchard.

One of the busts from the collection of Cardinal Mazarin

The ancient busts are from collections belonging to Cardinal Mazarin which were bequeathed to Louis XIV.

Salon of Mars

The Salon of Mars, used by the royal guards until 1782, was decorated on a military theme with helmets and trophies, making its dedication to the god of war highly appropriate. Between 1684 and 1750, it was turned into a concert room, with galleries for musicians on either side. Decorating the room today are portraits of Louis XV and his Queen, Marie Leszczinska, by the Flemish artist Carle Van Loo.

Ceiling painting of Mars on a chariot by Claude Audran the Younger

The Salon of Mars, followed on from the two previous rooms, marked the start of the King’s Apartment. A painting by Claude Audran the Younger, in the center of the ceiling, depicts Mars on a chariot pulled by wolves. Two other compositions, on either side of the work, are Victory supported by Hercules and followed by Abundance and Felicity by Jean Jouvenet, to the east, and Terror, Fury and Horror take possession of the powers of the earth, by René-Antoine Houasse, to the west.

Portrait of King Louis XV (Carle van Loo)

The arches, decorated using gold camaieu, celebrate war victories by sovereigns from Antiquity, which naturally correspond to the military triumphs of the king, evoked in the gilded stucco spandrels by the Gaspard and Balthazard Marsy (Balthazar and Gaspard).

Portrait of Marie Leszcynska (Carle van Loo)

The decoration on the cornice, composed of a variety of helmets and military headgear, highlights the military character of the room.

The Family of Darius before Alexander (Charles Le Brun)

The Family of Darius before Alexander (to the left of the chimney) by Charles Le Brun, and The Pilgrims of Emmaus (to the right), in the style of Paolo Veronese, were hung as a pair, upon the king’s request, to demonstrate the desire to show that French painters could rival the greatest Italian masters.

The Pilgrims of Emmaus (Paolo Veronese)

Up until 1750, the room was used for music and dancing during evening gatherings and there were two platforms, on either side of the fireplace (where the two paintings now hang), which were for the musicians.

The fireplace

Two state portraits of Louis XV and Marie Leszczyńska, both painted by Carle Van Loo, are mounted on the side walls, while over the door are four paintings from Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye by Simon Vouet, illustrating the royal virtues of Temperance, Prudence, Justice and Strength.

Salon of Mercury

The Salon of Mercury, the original Chamber of Bed and House (La chambre du Lit et abritera), the State Bedchamber when Louis XIV officially moved the court and government to the Palace in 1682, has a bed that is a replica of the original commissioned by King Louis-Philippe I in the 19th century when he turned the palace into a museum. During winter, the bed was removed to make room for games tables.

Ceiling painting with Mercury on his chariot in the center

When the Salon of Mercury actually served as a bedchamber (referred to as the “bedroom”), the Duke of Anjou (the grandson of Louis XIV) slept here for three weeks before travelling to Spain where he was proclaimed King of Spain on November 16, 1700. From September 2 to 10, 1715, the coffin containing the body of Louis XIV was also displayed in this room.

Portrait of Louis XV (Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1730)

Its walls, ceilings and fireplace were once decorated with tables, mirrors, andirons and magnificently chased chandeliers (made in solid silver by the Gobelins silversmiths).  However, in 1689, Louis XIV had to melt them down to finance the War of the League of Augsburg.

Portrait of Queen Marie Leszczynska (Tocque)

The silver alcove (separated from the rest of the room by a silver balustrade) and magnificent tapestries of brocades (fabric made using gold and silver thread) which once hung from the walls and bed were later used, in their turn, to support the War of Spanish Succession. Since the original furniture was lost during the French Revolution, the remaining furniture in the room has been recreated after the Versailles inventory list.

Tapestry

The ceiling paintings, by the Flemish artist Jean Baptiste de Champaigne, depicts the god Mercury (the patron god of trade, arts and sciences and, as the gods’ messenger, of ambassadors) in his chariot, drawn by a rooster, and Alexander the Great and Ptolemy surrounded by scholars and philosophers.

Saint John the Evangelist on Patmos, (Innocenzo da Imola)

In the arches in the ceiling, these themes are also depicted in scenes that evoke events from the reign of Louis XIV such as the reception of ambassadors from far-off countries (Augustus receiving Indian ambassadors and Alexander the Great receiving Ethiopian ambassadors), development of the royal library (Ptolemy Philadelphus talking with wise men in the library of Alexandria), and the publication of Histoire Naturelle by Claude Perrault in the collection in the King’s Cabinet in 1671 (Alexander the Great bringing various foreign animals to Aristotle to allow him to write his Natural History).

Bronze and crystal chandelier

On either side are two paintings that Louis XIV was particularly fond of, and which he hung in his bedroom – David Playing the Harp by Domenico Zampieri, and Saint John the Evangelist on Patmos, attributed to Innocenzo da Imola.

Automaton Clock (Antoine Morand)

One can see through the mechanism of the large Automaton Clock, made by Antoine Morand, the royal clockmaker, for the King in 1706.  When it chimes the hour, the miniature figures of Louis XIV and Fame descend from a cloud.

Ceiling painting at Salon of Apollo

The Salon of Apollo, the Ceremonial Room (royal throne room) under Louis XIV, was the setting for formal audiences. The famous and extraordinary 2.6 m. (8-ft.) high throne (a huge wooden armchair covered with silver plaques and sculptures) once stood here on a platform beneath a baldachin but it was melted down in 1689 to help pay the costs of the expensive War of the League of Augsburg  and was replaced by a succession of more modest thrones of gilded wood in styles that varied according to the period.

The painting on the center of the ceiling, by Charles de la Fosse, dedicated to the Sun King, the arts and peace, depicts the Sun Chariot of Apollo (the King’s favorite emblem), pulled by four horses and surrounded by allegorical figures such as the Four Seasons.

Painting of Apollo pulled by four horses

The arches, illustrating the king’s magnificence and magnanimity, is seen  though various examples from Antiquity – Vespasian building the Colosseum; Augustus building the port of Miseno, Porus before Alexander and Coriolan entreated by his wife and mother to spare Rome.

Portrait of King Louis XIV in Ceremonial Dress (Hyacinthe Rigaud)

The copy (made in 1702) of most famous portrait of Louis XIV, by Hyacinthe Rigaud, hangs over the fireplace. The original portrait, made in 1701 (upon a personal request by the king who wanted to give it to his grandson who had recently become king of Spain), hangs in the Musée du Louvre.

Chandelier

State Apartments of  the King: Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1), from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com

Versailles Palace – Palace History Gallery (France)

Palace History Gallery

As a prologue to our visit to the State Apartments of the King, we first entered the Palace History Gallery (Galerie de l’Histoire du Château) located on the ground floor of the North Wing.

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A partnership of the Palace of Versailles with Google, the gallery opened last June 14, 2012. Chronologically presenting the construction history of the Palace, it, in parallel, also evoked images of the Bourbon reign.

The author beside a bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV.  Behind is the painting “King Louis-Philippe and his five sons leaving the Palace of Versailles” (Horace Vernet, 1846)

Devoted to the château’s history, it presents a thematic and chronological collection representing milestones of the palace’s creation, from the transformation of Louis XIII’s hunting lodge to the grandiose Baroque château all the way to its renovation by Louis-Philippe I, who founded the Museum of the History of France within Versailles in the 19th century. The collection includes films that explain each stage of the château’s history.

In the foreground is the painting “Portrait of Louis XII of France” (Studio of Simon Vouet)

A series of eleven rooms, with a total area of 700 sq. m. (a little over 7,500 sq. ft.), explained to us the richly varied functions of the places we were about to explore.

Portrait of Louis Philippe I in the uniform of a General Officer (Franz Xaver Winterhalter, oil on canvas, 1839)

Our visit combined the presentation of the collections of Versailles, currently comprising approximately 7,000 paintings (5,000 portraits, about 2,000 historical scenes) and 1,500 sculptures (mainly portraits), with physical scale models and striking 3D reconstructions.

Scaled Model of Chateau de Versailles

The new Château de Versailles History Gallery was designed by the Paris-based Projectiles architectural studio, winner in a contest organized between February and April 2010, creating an interior with emphasis on geometric shapes in modern materials that is in complete contrast with the rest of the palace.

View of Versailles from Place de Armas (Pierre Denis Martin, oil on canvas, 1722)

CREA Diffusion, an internationally renowned fabrication firm based in Sologne (France), was hired to handle the fabrication and installation of the 16,000 sq. ft. of solid DuPont Corian surfacing used for the monolithic chandeliers and interior elements.  Even the wall paneling are covered with engraved DuPont Corian techno surfaces.

Fountain of Apollo Gardens of Versailles (Hubert Robert, 1774)

Palace History Gallery: Ground Floor, North Wing, Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1)from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com.

Versailles Palace – Royal Chapel (France)

Royal Chapel

Upon arriving from the Place d’Armes, we caught sight of the Royal Chapel of Versailles’ sleek form, with a stonework facade opening up by large windows and its roof ridge reaching a height of 40 m. (the Royal Chapel is several dozen meters higher than the surrounding buildings). The current chapel, located at the south end of the north wing, was the last major building project at Versailles to be completed during the reign of Louis XIV (his spiritual legacy as well) and the fifth and final chapel built in the Palace since the reign of Louis XIII.

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Some of the statues atop the balustrade

Officially announced in 1682, construction was begun by Jules Hardouin-Mansart (the First Architect to the King) in 1699 and, after Hardouin-Mansart died in 1708, the chapel was completed by his assistant and brother-in-law Robert de Cotte.  It was consecrated on June 5, 1710, at the end of the reign of Louis XIV, by Cardinal Louis Antoine de Noailles, the Archbishop of Paris.

Along with the Hall of Mirrors, it is one of the jewels of the Palace of Versailles.  The Chapel, a treasure of sacred architecture in France, is an impressive showpiece, of that time, of the proliferation of art to express the divine.

The chapel interior

Hardouin-Mansart  perpetuated the architectural tradition of French royal chapels, while giving the building a very modern appearance, consistent with Versailles’ “grand royal style.” He was also responsible for the Hall of Mirrors, the other major project at the end of the Sun King’s reign.

Representing one of the finest examples of French Baroque architecture and ecclesiastical decoration, the chapel towers over the rest of the palace. It was dedicated to Louis IX of France, the patron saint of the King and an ancestor of the royal house.

High Altar

Many believe that the Chapel contains references to the Sainte-Chapelle of Paris which Louis IX had founded on Île de la Cité in the 1240s, notably its large windows that let in the light, as well as its height (40 m.) on a squat and streamlined, 24 m. wide and 42 m. long base, made possible by its interior colonnade.

Colonnade

The Royal Chapel stands out for its rich artistic expression, both inside and out. The building’s overall design, with Gothic-inspired architecture, features many monumental sculpted decorations. There are large glass windows, Corinthian pilasters topped with plant decorations, buttresses, a roof with decorative lead work that was covered in gold leaf during the Sun King’s time plus an imposing colonnade on the first floor clearly inspired by Antiquity.

No fewer than 30 statues, made by 16 different sculptors, top the balustrade and the Chapel’s central pediment. Their carefully chosen themes are a combination of major characters in Christianity and allegories of Christian virtues.

Colonnade on the right

The interior elevation, like other royal chapels, follows the usual format for Palatine chapels (the most obvious examples is the presence of a balcony) with two levels.  The free-standing columns let in bright light from the large panes of clear glass (a luxury at the time).  Daily services here were usually held in the morning at 10 AM with the King, surrounded by his family, worshiping in the Royal Tribune on the upper level, with the ladies of the Court occupying the lateral tribunes, while the Officers and members of the public were seated or stood in the nave parterre on the ground level.

The king only descended into the nave during religious celebrations when he took Holy Communion, ceremonies of the Order of the Holy Spirit, and the baptisms and weddings of the Princes and Princesses of the realm which were held there from 1710 to 1789.

The ceiling frescos

The Hardouin-Mansart-designed uninterrupted vaulted ceiling, without transverse ribs to create a unified surface, display striking frescoes, complemented by large stained-glass windows, done by the most talented painters of the time, with scenes depicting the three figures of the Holy Trinity.

The Resurrection of Christ (Charles de La Fosse)

The Glory of the Father Announcing the Coming of the Messiah, in the center, was done by Antoine Coypel. In the apse above the altar is The Resurrection of Christ by Charles de La Fosse while above the royal tribune is The Holy Spirit Descending upon the Virgin and the Apostles by Jean Jouvenet.

Glory Holding the Medallion of Louis XV (Antoine Vasse)

A corridor and vestibule, connecting the Chapel and the State Apartments, included later art commissioned by Louis XV, intended to portray the link between Divinity and the King –  a statue of Glory Holding the Medallion of Louis XV, by Antoine Vassé; and Royal Magnanimity by Jacques Bousseau.

Royal Magnanimity (Jacques Bousseau)

The great organ, designed by Clicquot, is decorated with a beautiful depiction of King David in relief and was unusually placed above the altar, thus facing the gallery where the royal family sat to attend mass.   Great musicians, such as  François Couperin (he inaugurated the organ), have played this organ. Every day, throughout the service, the music of the Chapel, renowned throughout Europe, rang out with motets  resonating from above the altar.

The Great Organ

More than 300 years after its construction, the acoustics of this exceptional musical venue still resonates as the chapel continues to host concerts, playing a large repertoire of sacred and secular music from that time and the present day.

NOTE: More than forty years after its last major restoration, the Royal Chapel is now undergoing urgent intervention on the roof timbers, the roof and decorative lead work, the statues and window frames and stained glass.The end of the construction is scheduled for spring 2021.

Hall of Mirrors: Chateau De Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1)from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com

Versailles Palace (France)

Palace of Versailles (Chateau de Versailles) seen from the Place d’Armes

After a 10-min. walk from the Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, we finally at the Place d’Armes, the roughly fan-shaped square with its equestrian statue of Louis XIV in the center and the Grande Écurie and the Petite Écurie (Royal Stables) to the east.  We entered the  Palace of Versailles via the  royal gate into the Court of Honor (cour d’honneur), the courtyard in front of the palace.

Place d’Armes, facing the La Grand Ecurie and Petite Ecurie

The original Baroque-style steel gate, designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, was torn down during the French Revolution.

The recreated Royal Gate

The new 80 m. high, recreated steel gate, decorated with 100,000 gold leaves, was unveiled last February 4, 2008 after two years of painstaking work by legions of top craftsmen and history experts with private donors contributing five million euros (eight million dollars) to ensure an exact replica would be produced.  As we had already bought our tickets online, we entered the palace via Entrance A.

The bronze equestrian Statue of Louis XIV designed by Pierre Cartellier. The rider is the work of Louis Petitot, son-in-law of Cartelier, and the whole was cast in bronze by Charles Crozatier in 1838. The proportions of the statues of the horse and the king are slightly different. Previously located in the Cour d’Honneur, it was relocated to the Place d’Armes in 2009.

The royal court of Versailles, home of the French nobility and a symbol of the system of absolute monarchy of the Ancien Régime, was the center of political power in France from 1682 (when Louis XIV moved from Paris) until October 1789, after the beginning of the French Revolution, when the royal family was forced to return to the capital.

The Court of Honor. L-R: the author, Kyle, Cheska, Grace and Jandy

Here is the historical timeline of the palace:

  • From 1661–1678, the first phase of the expansion into a royal palace by Louis XIV, designed and supervised by the architect Louis Le Vau, culminated in the addition of three new wings of stone (the enveloppe), which surrounded Louis XIII’s original building on the north, south, and west (the garden side). As a result of Le Vau’s enveloppe of Louis XIII’s château, the king and the queen had new apartments in the new addition (known at the time as the château neuf).  Charles Le Brun designed and supervised the elaborate interior decoration. André Le Nôtre (who landscaped the extensive Gardens of Versailles) and Le Brun (who supervised the design and installation of countless statues) collaborated on the numerous fountains.
  • In 1670, after Le Vau’s death, the work was taken over and completed by his assistant, François d’Orbay.
  • From 1678–1715, during the second phase of expansion, two enormous wings north and south of the wings flanking the Royal Court (Cour Royale) of the main château were added by the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart who also replaced Le Vau’s large terrace on the west (garden) front with what became the most famous room of the palace, the Hall of Mirrors. Mansart also built the stables (Petites Écuries and Grandes Écuries), on the opposite (east) side of the Place d’Armes, in front of the palace and the château known as the Grand Trianon (or Marble Trianon), replacing Le Vau’s 1668 Trianon de Porcelaine in the northern section of the palace park.
  • By 1682, work was sufficiently advanced that Louis XIV was able to proclaim Versailles his principal residence and the governmental center of France, and to give rooms in the palace to almost all of his courtiers.
  • In 1683, after the death of his consort Maria Theresa of Spain, Louis XIV undertook the enlargement and remodeling of the royal apartments in the oldest part of the palace, the château built by his father.
  • In 1688, the Royal Chapel of Versailles, located at the south end of the north wing, was begun by Mansart.
  • In 1710, after Mansart’s death in 1708, work on the Royal Chapel was completed by his assistant Robert de Cotte .
  • In 1738, Louis XV remodeled the king’s petit appartement on the north side of the Cour de Marbre (Marble Court), originally the entrance court of the old château.
  • In 1768, the Petit Trianon, a pavilion in the palace park designed by Ange-Jacques Gabriel, was finished.
  • In 1770, the Opéra, a theater at the north end of the north wing designed by Gabriel, was completed in time for the marriage of the Dauphin (the future Louis XVI), Louis XV‘s grandson, and Marie Antoinette.
  • After he became king in 1774, Louis XVI made only a few changes to the main palace, primarily to their private apartments. Marie Antoinette made extensive changes to the interior of the Petit Trianon as well as its gardens, including adding her private Théâtre de la Reine and the Hameau.
  • In 1783, the three treaties of the Peace of Paris (1783), in which the United Kingdom recognized the independence of the United States, where signed in the Palace.
  • On October 5, 1789, growing anger in Paris led to the Women’s March on Versailles wherein a crowd of several thousand men and women, protesting the high price and scarcity of bread, marched from the markets of Paris to Versailles. Taking weapons from the city armory, they besieged the Palace and compelled the King and Royal family and the members of the National Assembly to return with them to Paris the following day.
  • In 1792, the Convention (the new revolutionary government), ordered the transfer of all the paintings and sculptures from the Palace to the Louvre.
  • Between 25 August 1793 and 11 August 1794, auction of furniture, mirrors, baths and kitchen equipment, were sold in seventeen thousand lots. All fleurs-de-lis and royal emblems on the buildings were chambered or chiseled off. The empty buildings were turned into a storehouse for furnishings, art and libraries confiscated from the nobility.
  • Beginning in 1793, the empty grand apartments were opened for tours and a small museum of French paintings and art school was opened in some of the empty rooms.
  • In 1810, Napoleon Bonaparte, prior to his marriage with Marie-Louise, he had the Grand Trianon restored and refurnished as a springtime residence for himself and his family, in the style of furnishing that it is seen today.
  • In 1820, Louis XVIII ordered the restoration of the royal apartments, but the task and cost was too great.
  • In 1833, Louis-Philippe initiated effort to restore and maintain Versailles when he changed the palace when he began renovation the south wing of the Palace, which had been used to house some members of the royal family, to convert them into the Museum of the History of France, including the Galerie des Batailles (Hall of Battles) which lies on most of the length of the second floor. To give greater uniformity of appearance to the front entrance, the far end of the south wing of the Cour Royale was demolished and rebuilt to match the Gabriel wing of 1780 opposite.
  • On June 30, 1837, the museum was inaugurated.
  • During the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–1871, the general staff of the victorious German Army occupied the Palace and parts of the chateau, including the Gallery of Mirrors, were turned into a military hospital.
  • On January 18, 1871, the creation of the German Empire, combining Prussia and the surrounding German states under William I, was formally proclaimed in the Hall of Mirrors.
  • In March 1871, until the signing of the armistice with the Germans, the government of the new Third French Republic moved into the Palace. The National Assembly held its meetings in the Opera House.
  • In 1892, Pierre de Nolhac, poet and scholar and the first conservator, began restoration efforts at the Palace. Though interrupted by two world wars, the conservation and restoration work still continues until the present day.
  • In June 1919, the Treaty of Versailles, formally ending the First World War, was signed in the Hall of Mirrors.
  • Between 1925 and 1928, American philanthropist and multi-millionaire John D. Rockefeller gave $2,166,000 (the equivalent of about thirty million dollars today), to restore and refurnish the palace.
  • On April 9, 1957, further restoration of the backstage areas of Royal Opera of Versailles was completed and the Royal Opera of Versailles was reopened in the presence of Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom.
  • In 1978, parts of the Palace were heavily damaged in a bombing committed by Breton terrorists.
  • In 1979, the palace and its garden were inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
  • In 2003, the “Grand Versailles” project, a new restoration initiative, was started. It began with the replanting of the gardens which, on December 26, 1999, had lost over 10,000 trees during Hurricane Lothar .
  • In 2006, the restoration of the Hall of Mirrors was completed. 

Check out “Versailles Palace – Royal Chapel,” “Versailles Palace – State Apartments of the King,” “Versailles Palace – Gallery of Great Battles” and “Versailles Palace – Hall of Mirrors

Here are some interesting trivia regarding the palace:

  • The palace was originally a hunting lodge built in brick and stone by King Louis XIII in 1623.
  • The land on which the palace was built on was situated on a narrow plateau with many swamps around it and not fit for the construction. For the project to happen, they needed to restructure the whole area by drying the swamps up and fill the area around the plateau with soil and stones. Earthwork and leveling were also essential for the construction to begin.
  • The Palace of Versailles is the second-most visited monument in the Île-de-France region (7,700,000 visitors in 2017), just behind the Louvre and ahead of the Eiffel Tower.
  • Versailles was one of the few castles in France that wasn’t located near a river so artificial ponds were created and aerial and underground aqueducts built to supply water for the Palace’s fountains and all the surrounding waters were redirected to it. They also pumped the water out of the Seine River using new techniques and hydraulic methods. A revolutionary pumping machine, built for this project, drew water from the river and, for it to reach the aqueducts that would lead the water to the Palace, drove it through pipes more than one hundred meters above the Seine level.
  • The Palace was not restricted only for the King and his court and though everyone could freely visit the Palace and walk its gardens, elegance was essential in the Palace of Versailles and visitors needed to be well-dressed to be allowed to walk the Palace. Those who did not have a proper outfit, could rent one at the entrance of the Palace.

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The palace, enthusiastically promoted as one of France’s foremost tourist attractions by the Fifth Republic, still serves political functions.  Heads of state are regaled in the Hall of Mirrors and the French Senate (Sénat) and the National Assembly (Assemblée nationale) meet, in congress, in Versailles to revise or otherwise amend the French Constitution, a tradition that came into effect with the promulgation of the 1875 Constitution.

The Marble Court (made with contrasting red brick, white stone and grey slate highlighted with god decoration) and the facade of the first chateau built by King Louis XIII

The Grand Apartments (grands appartements), known respectively as the King’s Grand Apartment (grand appartement du roi), consisting of an enfilade of seven rooms, and the Queen’s Grand Apartment (grand appartement de la reine) forming a parallel enfilade with that of the grand appartement du roi, occupied the main or principal floor of the New Palace (château neuf).

Check out “Versailles Palace – State Apartments of the King” and “Versailles Palace – Queen’s Grand Apartment

The Royal Chapel

Le Vau’s design for the state apartments, closely following Italian models of the day, is evidenced by the piano nobile (a convention the architect borrowed from 16th- and 17th-century Italian palace design), the  placement of the apartments on the next floor up from the ground level.

Gabriel Pavilion

Owned by the French state, the Palace of Versailles’ formal title is the Public Establishment of the Palace, Museum and National Estate of Versailles and, since 1995, has been run as a Public Establishment, with an independent administration and management supervised by the French Ministry of Culture.

Offering a visual history of French architecture from the 17th century to the end of the 18th century, the Palace of Versailles began with the original château, with the brick and stone and sloping slate (from Angers) Mansard roofs of the Louis XIII style, used by architect Philibert Le Roy. With the addition of the colonnades and flat roofs of the new royal apartments, done in the French Classical or Louis XIV style, as designed by Louis Le Vau and, later, by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, it then became grander and more monumental. In 1768, it concluded in the lighter and more graceful Neo-Classical Louis XVI style of the Petit Trianon, completed by Ange-Jacques Gabriel.

Dufour Pavilion

Largely completed by the death of Louis XIV in 1715, the eastern part of the palace has a U-shaped layout, surrounding a black-and-white marble courtyard, with the corps de logis and symmetrical advancing secondary wings terminating with the Dufour Pavilion on the south and the Gabriel Pavilion to the north, creating an expansive cour d’honneur known as the Cour Royale (Royal Court).

The North Wing

Two enormous asymmetrical wings, flanking the Royal Court, results in a 402 m. (1,319 ft.) long facade. The palace, covered by around a million sq. ft. (10 hectares) of roof, has 2,143 windows, 1,252 chimneys, and 67 staircases.

The Princes’ Staircase overlooking the Gallery of Great Battles

The façade of Louis XIII’s original château, preserved on the entrance front, was built of red brick and cut stone embellishments. In the center of the courtyard is a 3-storey avant-corps fronted with eight red marble columns, supporting a gilded wrought-iron balcony and surmounted with a triangle of lead statuary surrounding a large clock (its hands stopped upon the death of Louis XIV).

Questel Staircase, located at the North Wing, was named after architect Charles-Aususte Questel.  It replaced the one built by Questel’s predecessor, Frédéric Nepveu, during the July Monarchy.

Columns, painted and gilded wrought-iron balconies plus dozens of stone tables decorated with consoles (holding marble busts of Roman emperors) completes the rest of the façade while atop the slate Mansard roof, are elaborate dormer windows and gilt lead roof dressings, added by Hardouin-Mansart in 1679–1681.

The garden front and wings, inspired by the architecture of Baroque-style Italian villas but executed in the French Classical style, were encased in enveloppe (white cut ashlar stone from L’Oise) by Le Vau in 1668-1671 and modified by Hardouin-Mansart in 1678–1679.

The exterior features an arcaded, rusticated ground floor, supporting a main floor with round-headed windows divided by reliefs and pilasters or columns, while the attic storey, with square windows and pilasters, is crowned by a balustrade bearing sculptured trophies and flame pots dissimulating a flat roof.

Angel and Lion Statue

Chateau de Versailles: Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 83 78 00. Website: www.chateauversailles.fr.  Open daily (except on Mondays and May 1), from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM.  Last admission is 6 PM while the ticket office closes at 5.45 PM. The estate of Trianon and the Coach Gallery only open in the afternoon while the Park (7 AM to 8:30 PM) and Gardens (8 AM to 8.30 PM, last admission: 7 PM) are open every day. Access to the Gardens is free except on days of fountains shows. You can access the estate of Trianon through the Gardens or through the city. The Petit Trianon is only possible via the Grand Trianon.

Admission: 27 € for Passport with Timed Entry (days with Musical Fountains Shows or Musical Gardens), 20 € for Passport with Timed Entry (without musical fountains show or musical gardens), 12 € for Estate of Trianon ticket(without Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 10 € for Passport with Timed Entry (free admission, days with Musical Fountains Show or Musical Gardens), 9,50 € for Musical Fountains Show ticket, 8,50 € for Musical Gardens ticket, 28 € for the Fountains Night Show.

How to Get There: The cheapest option for reaching Versailles is by train. There are three train stations in Versailles.  RER line C arrives at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station, the closest one of the Palace (just 10 minutes’ walk to the Palace). SNCF trains from Gare Montparnasse arrive at Versailles Chantiers train station, which is 18 minutes on foot to the Palace. SNCF trains from Gare Saint Lazare arrive at Versailles Rive Droite train station, 17 minutes on foot to the Palace. RER C and SNCF train times are available on www.transilien.com.

Seine River Cruise (Paris, France)

Seine River Sightseeing Cruise via Bateaux Parisiens

After our morning tour of the Eiffel Tower, we made our way, by foot, to the boat docking station at Port de la Bourdonnais where we hopped aboard a popular and modern Bateaux Parisiens glass-topped trimaran  to embark on a quintessential, scenic and leisurely cruise along the Seine riverbanks.

Port de la Bourdonnai

Bateaux Parisiens trimaran

All aboard …..

Bateaux Parisiens has a fleet of four trimarans, three named after legendary French actresses (Catherine Deneuve, Isabelle Adjani and Jeanne Moreau) and another after a French businessman (Pierre Bellon). They each hold up to 600 passengers.

The author

Our trimaran, with terrace and exterior passageways, was well equipped, clean and well maintained, with plenty of outdoor seating at the upper deck.

Jandy and Grace

The company also has nine smaller boats, some of which are used for dinner cruises and private events.  They offer high priced lunch and dinner, to the sound of the resident band, with a choice of four different a la carte menus, on separate restaurant boats.  All boats follow the same 12-km. long route.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Eiffel Tower

Louvre Museum

The Grand Palais, a large historic site, exhibition hall and museum complex located at the Champs-Élysées, was built in the style of Beaux-Arts architecture.

Check out “Louvre Museum,” “Notre Dame Cathedral” and “Eiffel Tower

A fantastic introduction to the highlights and magic of Paris, we soaked up the passing sights of iconic, world-famous monuments and landmarks as we cruised up and down  the Seine River.

Musee d’Orsay

National Museum of the Legion of Honor and Orders of Chivalry, created in 1925, displays a history of France’s honors, medals, decorations, and chivalric orders from the time of King Louis XI to the present, including Napoleonic souvenirs and more than 300 portraits. A special section is dedicated to foreign orders. Its library and archives contain more than 3,000 works.. Located beside the Musee d’Orsay, it is housed within the Hôtel de Salm, built in 1782 by architect Pierre Rousseau for Frederick III, Prince of Salm-Kyrburg.

Registry of the Paris Commercial Court

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On the left bank are the Notre Dame Cathedral, the National Museum of the Legion of Honor and Orders of Chivalry, Conciergerie, National Assembly, Les Invalides, the Institut de France, and the Musée d’Orsay.

Paris City Hall, the headquarters of the municipality of Paris since 1357, serves multiple functions, housing the local administration, the Mayor of Paris (since 1977), and also serves as a venue for large receptions.

Institut de France, a French learned society, groups five académies (including the Académie Française). It manages approximately 1,000 foundations, as well as museums and châteaux open for visit..

On the right bank, during the return trip, are the Louvre,  the Grand Palais, the Obelisk at the Place de la Concorde, Tuileries Garden, the Paris City Hall, and the Eiffel Tower.

The Conciergerie Paris, located on the west of the Île de la Cité, was formerly a prison but is presently used mostly for law courts. During the French Revolution, hundreds of prisoners were taken from the Conciergerie to be executed by guillotine at a number of locations around Paris.

We also glided beneath beautiful historic bridges (37 bridges span the river), including the famous Pont Neuf. Even the Seine riverbanks, collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991, are a sight to behold.

Check out “Bridges Along the Seine River

Hotel Dieu, a hospital located on the Île de la Cité, on the parvise of Notre-Dame, is the oldest hospital in the city and the oldest worldwide still operating. Ravaged by fire several times, it was rebuilt for the last time at its present location between 1867 and 1878, as part of Haussmann’s renovation of Paris.

After half an hour, our boat turned around and cruised back up along the opposite bank. Our 1-hour cruise ends back at the original departure point near the Eiffel Tower.

The Palais Bourbon serves as a meeting place of the French National Assembly, the lower legislative chamber of the French government. It is located on the left bank of the Seine, across from the Place de la Concorde.

Bateaux Parisiens: Pontoon 3, Port de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Paris, France. Tel: +33 825 01 01 01 and +33 1 76 64 14 66.  Open 9:30 AM – 10 PM. Website: www.bateauxparisiens.com. Admission: adults (€15), children under 12 yrs. (€7), free for children under 3 years old. Ticket will be valid for one year at any given time. Departures: April to September (from 10:15 AM -10:30 PM, every 30 mins., no departures at 1:30 PM and 7:30 PM), October to March (from 11 AM -8:30 PM, at least every hour). Book online in advance to avoid queues. The boat also departs from Notre Dame Cathedral. Audio guide commentary with musical accompaniment, from a handset, available in 13 languages (English, French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, American, Russian, Dutch, Polish, Chinese, Japanese and Korean). Smoking is not allowed on the boat and animals are not permitted on board.

How to Get There: Champ de Mars Tour Eiffel (RER C) 5 . Nearest metro: Trocadero or Bir Hakeim

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (Paris, France)

After our all morning tour of the Louvre and lunch at an outdoor café, we made our way, by foot, to the Bateaux Parisiens boat docking station, near the Eiffel Tower, where we were to embark on a Seine River Cruise.  We passed a number of Paris landmarks along the way.  The first was the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, a triumphal arch  derivative of the triumphal arches of the Roman Empire; in particular that of Septimius Severus in Rome.

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

Located in the Place du Carrousel, it was designed by Charles Percier and Pierre François Léonard Fontaine and was built between 1806 and 1808, on the model of the Arch of Constantine (312 AD) in Rome, by Emperor Napoleon I as an entrance of honor of the Tuileries Palace, the Imperial residence, and to commemorate his diplomatic and military victories of the previous year. The more famous Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile, across from the Champs Élysées and designed in the same year, is about twice as massive but was not completed until 1836.

DSC05462

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is located at the eastern end of Paris Axe historique (“historic axis”), a 9-km. long linear route which dominates much of the northwestern quadrant of the city. It is, in effect, the backbone of the Right Bank.  Looking west, the arch is perfectly aligned with the obelisk in the Place de la Concorde, the centerline of the grand boulevard Champs-Élysées, the Arc de Triomphe at the Place de l’Étoile, and, although it is not directly visible from the Place du Carrousel, the Grande Arche de la Défense. Thus, the axis begins and ends with an arch.

Bas-relief of The Battle of Austerlitz

Bas-relief of The Battle of Austerlitz

When the Arc du Carrousel was built, however, an observer in the Place du Carrousel was impeded from any view westward as the central part of the Palais des Tuileries intervened to block the line of sight to the west. When the Tuileries was burned down during the Paris Commune in 1871, and its ruins were swept away, the great axis, as it presently exists, an unobstructed view west was opened all the way to the Place du Carrousel, the Louvre and the more famous Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile. Also, with the disappearance of the palace, the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel also became the dominant feature of the Place du Carrousel.

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel seen from the Louvre

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel seen from the Louvre

This monument is 19 m. (63 ft.) high, 23 m. (75 ft.) wide and 7.5 m. (24 ft.) deep.  Its 6.4 m. (21 ft.) high central arch is flanked by two smaller ones, 4.3 m. (14 ft.) high, and 2.7 m. (9 ft.) wide. An example of Corinthian style of architecture, around its exterior are 8 marble Corinthian columns topped by an entablature whose upper frieze has sculptures of 8 soldiers of the Empire: Auguste Marie Taunay‘s cuirassier, Charles-Louis Corbet‘s dragoonJoseph Chinard‘s horse grenadier and Jacques-Edme Dumont‘s sapper.

Statue of a dragoon

Statue of a dragoon

On the pediment, between the soldiers, are bas-reliefs, executed in rose marble, whose subjects are devoted to the battles of Napoleon and were selected by Vivant Denon, the director of the Napoleon Museum  (located at the time in the Louvre), and designed by Charles Meynier. They depict:

It was originally surmounted by the so-called Horses of Saint Mark that adorned the top of the main door of the St Mark’s Basilica in Venice, which had been captured in 1798 by Napoleon. In 1815, following the Battle of Waterloo and the Bourbon restoration, France ceded the quadriga  to the Austrian empire which had annexed Venice under the terms of the Congress of Vienna. The Austrians immediately returned the statuary to Venice.

Quadriga of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel - Copy

Quadriga of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

The horses of Saint Mark were replaced in 1828 by a quadriga, atop the entablature, sculpted by Baron François Joseph Bosio, depicting Peace riding in a triumphal chariot led by gilded Victories on both sides. The composition commemorates the Restoration of the Bourbons following Napoleon’s downfall.  The Arc du Carrousel inspired the design of Marble Arch, constructed in London between 1826 and 1833.

Louvre Pyramid (Paris, France)

Louvre Pyramid

The Louvre Pyramid

At the main courtyard (Cour Napoléon) of the Louvre Palace (Palais du Louvre) is the Louvre Pyramid (Pyramide du Louvre), a large, glass and metal pyramid that serves as the main entrance to the Louvre Museum. Designed by the late Chinese-American architect I. M. Pei (Ieoh Ming Pei), the founder of Pei Cobb Freed & Partners known for his stellar work at the National Gallery in Washington as well as the Fine Arts Museum in Boston.

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L-R; Jandy, Grace, Cheska, Kyle and Manny

It was commissioned in 1984 by the, François Mitterrand, President of France, and completed on March  29, 1989 (symbolically, the bicentenary year of the French Revolution).

Cheska and Kyle

I.M. Pei’s most famous structure, this controversial structure, now an iconic symbol for the largest museum in the world,  has become, together with the Arc de Triumphe and the equally controversial Eiffel Tower, a landmark of the city of Paris.

Check out “Arc de Triomphe” and “Eiffel Tower

One of the three smaller pyramids

Here are some interesting trivia regarding the Louvre Pyramid:

  • There are actually five pyramids throughout the museum. The Louvre Pyramid is surrounded by three smaller pyramids, positioned to create light shafts for access to the museum’s collections, plus the Pyramide Inversée (Inverted Pyramid), an upside-down and smaller version of the Louvre Pyramid. The latter is a skylight in the Carrousel du Louvre shopping mall in front of the Louvre Museum.
  • The large pyramid has the exact same proportions as the Great Pyramid of Giza.
  • The choice of the pyramid figure serves as a reminder of the importance of the Egyptian antiquities collection inside the museum.
  • The Louvre Pyramid was featured near the beginning the 2006 film The Da Vinci Code. Here, Robert Langdon, the main character, meets French Police Captain Bezu Fache in front of the Louvre Pyramid. Today, the sites at the Louvre which are portrayed in the film are the subject of a special visitor trail which enters through the Pyramid and concludes at the Inverted Pyramid.
  • Because of a series of problems with the Louvre’s original main entrance (it could no longer handle, on an everyday basis, the enormous number of visitors, then at 5 million visitors a year), the Louvre Pyramid was created so that visitors entering through the pyramid first descend into the spacious, 60,386 sq. m. (650,000 sq. ft.) underground lobby before ascend into the museum’s three pavilions — Denon, Richelieu and Sully.  However, in 2014, the Louvre’s attendance had doubled and the pyramid proved inadequate, necessitating a thorough redesign of the layout of the foyer area in the Cour Napoleon, including better access to the pyramid and the Passage Richelieu, between 2014 and 2017.
  • As soon as the Louvre Pyramid project, costing 5 billion euros, was announced, it triggered many years of strong and lively aesthetic and political debate. Accused of disfiguring the architecture, some questioned what direction the museum was headed. They criticized the Modernist style of the edifice being inconsistent with the majestic, old and classic French Renaissance architectural style and history of the Louvre; the pyramid being an unsuitable and anachronistic intrusion of an ancient Egyptian symbol of death in the middle of Paris; the hugely unpopular project being an immodest, pretentious, megalomaniacal folly imposed by then-President François Mitterrand (political critics referred to the structure as “Pharaoh Francois’ Pyramid”); and that Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei being insufficiently French to be entrusted with the task of updating the treasured Parisian landmark. Even today, many people still feel that the harsh modernism of the edifice is out of place.
  • M. Pei also included large glass pyramid concept on the roofs of the IBM Somers Office Complex(Westchester County, New York, 1989, the same year the Louvre Pyramid opened) and at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (1995, Cleveland, Ohio).
  • Several other museums have also duplicated the pyramid concept, most notably the Museum of Science and Industry(Chicago, Illinois) and the Dolphin Centre (opened April 1982, by Prince Richard, Duke of Gloucester).
  • It has been claimed by some that the glass panes in the Louvre Pyramid number exactly 666, “the number of the beast” often associated with Satan and the beast in the Apocalypse. Dominique Stezepfandt’s book François Mitterrand, Grand Architecte de l’Universalso declares that “the pyramid is dedicated to a power described as the Beast in the Book of Revelation (…) The entire structure is based on the number 6.” The story of the 666 panes originated in the 1980s, when the number 666 was mentioned in various newspapers as well as the official brochure published during construction (even twice, though, in a few pages earlier, the total number of panes was given as 672 instead). In 2003, the myth resurfaced when Dan Brown incorporated it in his best-selling novel The Da Vinci Code.  In the book, the protagonist reflects that “this pyramid, at President Mitterrand’s explicit demand, had been constructed of exactly 666 panes of glass.”  However, the Louvre museum states that the finished pyramid contains 673 glass panes (603 rhombi and 70 triangles). David A. Shugarts obtained a higher figure from Pei’s offices, reporting that the pyramid contains 689 pieces of glass.
  • During the design phase, there was a proposal that the design include a spire on the pyramid to simplify window washing. However, Pei objected and this proposal was eliminated.
  • Just in case any glass pieces ever break, laminated glass manufacturer Saint-Gobain made enough to build two pyramids. However, after more than 30 years, no repairs have yet been needed.
  • In the early days, mountaineers were actually hired to scale the Pyramid and clean the glass, a monumental task. However, in the 1990s, a robot was designed to do the job. Then, in 2002, Advanced Robotic Vehicles, a Seattle company, developed a “double breadboxed-sized robot” which boasts a squeegee and rotating brush. When secured to the glass via suction cups, it is maneuvered by remote control to climb the Pyramid on tracks. However, human ropers are still used to repair the joints and descale the glass from time to time.
  • Although the Pyramid was constructed to accommodate a visitor entrance, it’s not the only way to get into the Louvre. Visitors, with single or group tickets, can enter through the Passage Richelieu, which is just off the Rue de Rivoli across from the Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre metro station. You can also enter via the Carrousel du Louvre, an underground shopping and dining space opened in 1993 and the location of the suspended Inverted Pyramid. Whichever entrance you choose, they all converge in the lobby beneath the Louvre Pyramid.

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The underground lobby

Constructed entirely with 21.5 mm. (0.8-in.) thick, extra clear “Diamond Glass” laminated glass segments, totaling 1,800 sq. m. (19,375 sq. ft.) in area, and 6,000 metal poles, the structure, supported by 95 tons of steel and 105 tons of aluminum, is 21.6 m. (71 ft.) high and its square base has sides of 34 m. (112 ft.) and a base surface area of 1,000 sq. m. (11,000 sq ft.).

Spiral stair

Consisting of 603 rhombus-shaped and 70 triangular glass segments, elementary arithmetic allows for easy counting of the panes.  Each of the three sides of the pyramid without an entrance has 18 triangular panes and 17 rows of rhombic ones arranged in a triangle, thus giving rhombic panes (171 panes total).

The side with the entrance has 11 panes fewer (9 rhombic, 2 triangular), so the whole pyramid consists of rhombi and triangles, 673 panes total.

The pyramid structure was engineered by Nicolet Chartrand Knoll Ltd. of Montreal (Pyramid Structure/Design Consultant) and Rice Francis Ritchie of Paris (Pyramid Structure/Construction Phase).

Information counter

Louvre Museum: 75001 Paris, France.  Tel: +33 1 40 20 50 50. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, 9 AM- 6 PM (until 10 PM on Wednesday and Friday evenings).

The Louvre has three entrances: the main entrance at the pyramid, an entrance from the Carrousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and an entrance at the Porte des Lions (near the western end of the Denon wing).

Admission is free, from October to March, on the first Sunday of every month. Still and video photography is permitted for private, noncommercial use only in the galleries housing the permanent collection. The use of flash or other means of artificial lighting is prohibited. Photography and filming are not permitted in the temporary exhibition galleries. 

How To Get There: the Louvre can be reached via Metro lines 1 and 7, station Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre Métro or the Louvre-Rivoli stations. By bus, take No. 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95 as well as the touristic Paris l’Open Tour. By car, there is an underground parking reachable by Avenue du Général Lemonier, every day from 7 AM – 11 PM.

Louvre Museum (Paris, France)

Louvre Museum

Louvre Museum

Come morning of our second day in Paris, after breakfast at our hotel, we walked towards the Gare de l’Est Metro entrance  where we took the Metro to the Louvre Museum (or simply the Louvre), one of the world’s largest museums and a central landmark and historic monument of the city.  It was already raining  when we arrived at the Louvre.   Located on the Right Bank of the Seine River, in the 1st arrondissement (ward), we arrived early in the main courtyard (Cour Napoléon).

L-R: Jandy, Grace, Kyle, Cheska and Manny

L-R: Jandy, Grace, Kyle, Cheska and Manny.  The Louvre Pyramid is in the background

However, lines were already starting to form near the 21.6 m. (71-ft.) high Louvre Pyramid (Pyramide du Louvre), a large  pyramid of glass  and metal  designed by the late Chinese architect Ieoh .Ming (I.M.) Pei.  Its square base has sides of 35 m. (115 ft) and consists of 603 rhombus-shaped and 70 triangular glass segments. Completed in 1989, it is surrounded by three smaller pyramids. The large pyramid serves as the main entrance.

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The main courtyard (Cour Napoléon)

The main courtyard (Cour Napoléon)

The museum is housed in the Louvre Palace, originally built as a fortress in the late 12th century under Philip II. Remnants of the fortress are still visible in the crypt in the basement of the museum. Whether that spot was the first building is not known.  It is possible that Philip modified an existing tower.  The remains of the medieval fortress and moat have been excavated and preserved, and can be seen today on the underground level of the Sully Wing, on the way to the department of Egyptian antiquities.

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Remnants of the late 12th century fortress

Remnants of the late 12th century fortress

The building was altered frequently throughout the Middle Ages and was extended many times to form the present Louvre Palace. In the 14th century, Charles V converted the building into a residence and, in 1546, Francis I renovated the site in French Renaissance style and acquired what would become the nucleus of the Louvre’s holdings (his acquisitions including Leonardo da Vinci‘s Mona Lisa).

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In 1682, Louis XIV chose the Palace of Versailles as his residence and constructions slowed.  However, the move permitted the Louvre to be used primarily as a place to display the royal collection, including, from 1692, a collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. It was also used as a residence for artists.

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In 1692, the building was occupied by the Académie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres and the Académie Royale de Peinture et de Sculpture which, in 1699, held the first of a series of salons. The Académie remained at the Louvre for 100 years. During the French Revolution, the National Assembly decreed that the Louvre should be used as a public museum to display the nation’s masterpieces and, on August 10, 1793 (the first anniversary of the monarchy’s demise), opened with an exhibition of 537 paintings and 184 objects of art, three quarters of which were derived from the royal collections, and the remainder from confiscated émigrés and Church property (biens nationaux).

Statue of Louis IV

Statue of Louis IV

On May 1796, the museum was closed due to structural deficiencies but was reopened on July 14, 1801, arranged chronologically and with new lighting and columns. Under Napoleon I, the collection was increased with many Spanish, Austrian, Dutch, Vatican (including Laocoön and His Sons and the Apollo Belvedere)and Italian (including the Horses of Saint Mark) works seized by his armies (returned to their original owners after Napoleon’s abdication) and the museum  was renamed the Musée Napoléon in 1803. During the reigns of Louis XVIII and Charles X, the collection was further increased and, during the Second French Empire, the museum gained 20,000 pieces.

The lobby underneath the pyramid

The lobby underneath the pyramid

With an area of over 60,600 sq. m. (652,300 sq. ft.), the Louvre exhibits a collection of nearly 35,000 objects, from prehistory to the 21st century, divided among 8 curatorial departments – Egyptian AntiquitiesNear Eastern Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan, and Roman AntiquitiesIslamic ArtSculpture; Decorative Arts; Paintings; Prints and Drawings.  You can’t possibly see them all, so you have to navigate to see what you want to see in the world’s most visited museum (the Louvre received over 9.7 million visitors in 2012).  Since the Third Republic, its holdings have grown steadily through donations and bequests.

Check out “Louvre Museum – Painting Collection” and “Louvre Museum – Greek, Etruscan and Roman Department

Jandy and Grace at the main courtyard

Jandy and Grace at the main courtyard

Louvre Museum: 75001 Paris, France.  Tel: +33 1 40 20 50 50. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, 9 AM- 6 PM (until 10 PM on Wednesday and Friday evenings).

The Louvre has three entrances: the main entrance at the pyramid, an entrance from the Carrousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and an entrance at the Porte des Lions (near the western end of the Denon wing).

Admission is free, from October to March, on the first Sunday of every month. Still and video photography is permitted for private, noncommercial use only in the galleries housing the permanent collection.The use of flash or other means of artificial lighting is prohibited. Photography and filming are not permitted in the temporary exhibition galleries.

How To Get There: the Louvre can be reached via Metro lines 1 and 7, station Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre Métro or the Louvre-Rivoli stations. By bus, take No. 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95 as well as the touristic Paris l’Open Tour. By car, there is an underground parking reachable by Avenue du Général Lemonier, every day from 7 AM – 11 PM.

L’Hôtel des Invalides (Paris, France)

L'Hotel des Invalides

L’Hotel des Invalides

After our pilgrimage to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal, we made the somewhat long, 1.8-km. walk, via Rue de Sèvres and Boulevard des Invalides, to the National Residence of the Invalids, also called L’Hôtel des Invalides.  While some distance away, we could already espy its elegant golden cupola.

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Main entrance

Main entrance

One of the most prestigious monuments in Paris, this complex of buildings, in the 7th arrondissement, contains museums (Musée de l’Armée, the military museum of the Army of France, the Musée des Plans-Reliefs and the Musée d’Histoire Contemporaine) and monuments, all relating to the military history of France, as well as a hospital and a retirement home for war veterans (invalides), the building’s original purpose.

Left wing

Left wing

The building retained its primary function as a retirement home and hospital for military veterans until the early twentieth century. Because of its location and significance, the Invalides was also the scene of several key events in French history.

Right wing

Right wing

L’Hôtel des Invalides had its beginnings in 1670 when Louis XIV, by an order dated November 24, initiated the hôpital des invalides, a home and hospital for aged and unwell soldiers. Designed by architect Libéral Bruant, it was built on the then suburban plain of Grenelle (plaine de Grenelle) and, by the time it was completed in 1676, the  front facade facing the Seine River was 196 m. (643 ft.) long.

L-R- Kyle, Grace, Cheska, the author and Jandy

L-R: Grace, Kyle, Cheska, the author and Jandy

The complex had 15 courtyards, the largest being the cour d’honneur (“court of honor”) which was used for military parades. The veterans’ chapel, known as Église Saint-Louis des Invalides, was also designed by the aged Bruant, assisted by Jules Hardouin Mansart, and finished in 1679.

The Domed Church

The Domed Church

Louis XIV’s separate private royal chapel, referred to as the Église du Dôme (Domed Church), was designed and built by Mansart and was completed in 1708. One of the triumphs of French Baroque architecture, this royal chapel is centrally placed to dominate the court of honor.

The chapel's gold-plated cupola

The chapel’s gold-plated cupola

Its Baroque dome was inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and was built between 1677 and 1706 to glorify Louis XIV, the monarchy and his armies. Mansart raised its drum, with an attic storey over its main cornice, and employed the paired columns motif in his more complicated rhythmic theme.  On 14 July 1789, during the French Revolution, Les Invalides was stormed by Parisian rioters and the cannons and muskets stored in its cellars were seized for use against the Bastille later that same day.  The royal chapel was later renamed as the Temple de Mars.

The chapel's facade

The chapel’s facade

During the reign of Napoleon Bonaparte, it became a military pantheon with the installation of the tomb of Henri de la Tour d’Auvergne, Vicomte de Turenne (better known as Turenne), one of the most famous marshals of France, in 1800 and, on May 26, 1808, had the heart (his other remains were scattered during the French Revolution) of Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban , designer of Louis XIV’s military fortifications, transferred, from his grave in Bazoches, to a mausoleum erected opposite Turenne’s, both under the dome.

The Corithian columns and pediment at the upper level

The Corithian columns and pediment at the upper level

On December 15, 1840, remains of Napoleon himself was brought back to France, from the island of St. Helena  (an event known as le retour des cendres or “return of the Ashes”and arranged by King Louis-Philippe) and first buried in the Chapelle Saint-Jérôme  (Chapel of St. Jerome) in the Invalides until his final resting place, designed by Louis Visconti, was finished. On April 2, 1861, Napoleon was finally interred in a porphyry sarcophagus in the circular crypt under the dome.

The Domed Chapel's interior

The Domed Chapel’s interior

On January 5, 1895, the degradation of Capt. Alfred Dreyfus was held before the main building, while his subsequent rehabilitation ceremony took place on July 21, 1906 in a courtyard of the complex. During the second half of the 20th century, after the destruction of small back buildings and the creation of a peripheral gap, the entire site of the Hôtel National des Invalides was opened to the public.

The gilded dome

The gilded dome

In 1981, a huge restoration project, under the instigation of an interdepartmental commission co-directed by Ministries of Defense and Culture, was undertaken to restore the former splendor of this exceptional site.  In 1989, 12 kgs. (20 lbs.) of gold (550,000 leaves) were used to regild the dome and details at the walls for the bicentenary of the French Revolution.

The baldacchino above the high altar

The baldacchino above the high altar

The Greek Cross-shaped Les Invalides has a beautiful facade with Doric and Corinthian columns, two colossal marble statues of Charlemagne (by Charles Antoine Coysevox) on the right and St. Louis holding the Crown of Thorns (by Nicolas Coustou) on the left decorate the niches of the lower levels and on the level above, on the corner of the balustrade, stand the Four Virtues (also done by Coysevox) – Strength, Justice, Temperance and Prudence. Two colossal marble sculptures flank the entrance to l’Église du Dôme. Inside are 9 chapels and niches plus a  high altar area covered by a baldachin. The sides each have 3 chapels where the tombs are.

The heavy bronze door

The heavy bronze door leading to Napoleon’s crypt

Upon entering, I was awed by the interior of the 107 m. (351 ft.) high, ribbed and hemispherical dome, the second tallest in Paris, after the Pantheon, and another unmissable monument in the Parisian landscape.  Painted by  Charles de La FosseCharles Le Brun’s disciple, and completed in 1705, its main feature was the Baroque illusion of space (sotto in su) when seen from below. The 50 ft. diameter symbolic painting on the cupola and the pendentives depicts St. King Louis IX wearing his royal robes, entering into glory, amidst angels, and giving to Christ the sword he used to triumph over Christianity’s enemies.

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Balustrade overlooking Napoleon's crypt

Balustrade overlooking Napoleon’s crypt

Underneath the lavishly-decorated dome is a balustrade with a large space that looks down into the crypt where Napoleon’s huge porphyry tomb resides. We entered the crypt via a staircase behind the altar that leads to a heavy bronze door forged from cannons taken during the Battle of Austerlitz.  The door is flanked by two statues and above the lintel is an inscription extracted from Napoleon’s will (“I wish my ashes to rest on the banks of the Seine among the people of France whom I so much loved“).

Napoleon's sarcophagus

Napoleon’s sarcophagus

Built on a pedestal of green granite from  the Vosges Region, the sarcophagus was sculpted from blocks of red quartzite from Russia and is surrounded by a laurel crown and inscriptions referring to the Empire’s great victories. Inside the sarcophagus is a nest of six coffins: one made of soft iron, another of mahogany, two others of lead, one of ebony and finally the last one of oak. Napoleon is dressed in his Colonel’s uniform (of the cavalry of the Guard) which bears his sash of the Légion d’Honneur. His hat rests on his legs.

The author besides Napoleon's Tomb

The author besides Napoleon’s Tomb

Around the tomb and mounted up against the pillars of the crypt are 12 “Victories,” symbolizing Napoleon’s military campaigns, sculpted by James Pradier. Inscribed on the polychrome marble floor are his 8 famous victories – Austerlitz, Friedland, Jena, Marengo, Moscow, Pyramids, Rivoli and Wagram. Within the circular gallery are a set of 10 white marble bas-reliefs sculpted by Pierre-Charles Simart, depicting the main achievements of his reign – pacification of the nation, administrative centralization, State Council, Civil Code, Concordat, Imperial University, court of accounts, code of commerce, Major Works and the Legion of Honor.

Napoleon II's Tomb

Napoleon II’s Tomb and the statue of Napoleon I clad in the symbols of empire

Halfway along the gallery is a vault containing the coffin of his son Napoleon II (though his heart and intestines remained in Vienna), the King of Rome also known as l’Aiglon, transferred here on December 15, 1940, and placed under a marble slab in the crypt on December 18, 1969. Over the tomb stands a statue, by Simart, of Napoleon as a Roman emperor clad in the symbols of the Empire.

Jerome Napoleon's Tomb

Tomb of Jerome Napoleon, the youngest brother of Napoleon I who reigned as Jerome I (formally Hieronymus Napoleon in German), King of Westphalia, between 1807 and 1813. From 1816 onward, he bore the title of Prince of Montfort. After 1848, when his nephew, Louis Napoleon, became President of the French Second Republic, he served in several official roles, including Marshal of France from 1850 onward, and President of the Senate in 1852.

Two side chapels contain the tombs of Joseph Bonaparte (Chapel of St. Augustine) and Jérôme Bonaparte (Chapel of St. Jerome ), the eldest and youngest brothers, respectively, of Napoleon.

Joseph Bonaparte's Tomb

Tomb of Joseph Bonaparte, the older brother of Napoleon Bonaparte who made him King of Naples (1806–1808, as Giuseppe I), and later King of Spain (1808–1813, as José I). After the fall of Napoleon, Joseph styled himself Comte de Survilliers.

The gilt bees on the walls of the chapel of Saint-Jerôme serve to remind visitors that the Emperor’s coffin lay here while the crypt was being built.  Several military officers who served under Napoleon (Henri Gratien, Comte Bertrand and Geraud Duroc) are also buried at Les Invalides, all alongside Napoleon’s tomb.

Henri Bertrand's Tomb

Tomb of Henri Bertrand (March 28, 1773 – January 31, 1844), a French general life whose life was closely bound up with that of Napoleon, who had the fullest confidence in him, honoring him in 1808 with the title of count and at the end of 1813, with the title of Grand Marshal of the Palace. During the expedition to Egypt, Napoleon named him colonel (1798), then brigadier-general, and after the Battle of Austerlitz his aide-de-camp.

Geraud Duroc's Tomb

Tomb of Geraud Duroc (October 25, 1772 – May 23, 1813), a French general noted for his association with Napoleon. His devotion to him was rewarded by complete confidence. He became first aide-de-camp (1798), general of brigade (1800), and governor of the Tuileries. After the battle of Marengo, he was sent on missions to Vienna, St Petersburg (Russia), Stockholm and Copenhagen. He also served as Grand Marshal of the Palace. After the Battle of Austerlitz, where he commanded the grenadiers and was employed in a series of important negotiations with Frederick William III of Prussia, with the elector of Saxony (December 1806), in the incorporation of certain states in the Confederation of the Rhine, and in the conclusion of the armistice of Znaim (July 1809). In 1808, he was created duc de Frioul.

Aside from Turenne, other Marshals of France buried here include Thomas Bugeaud (conqueror of Algeria); François Certain Canrobert (commanded the III Army Corps in Lombardy in 1859 during the Second Italian War of Independence, distinguishing himself at Magenta and Solferino); Ferdinand Foch (Allied Supreme Commander in the First World War); Philippe Leclerc de Hauteclocque  (commander of the famous 2nd Armored Division during World War II); Hubert Lyautey (dubbed the “Maker of Morocco” and the French empire builder) and Jean de Lattre de Tassigny ( commander of the French First Army during World War II and later commander in the First Indochina War).

Ferdinand Foch's Tomb

Tomb of Ferdinand Foch (October 2, 1851 – March 20, 1929), a French general and military theorist who served as the Supreme Allied Commander during the First World War, successfully coordinating the French, British and American efforts into a coherent whole.  Deftly handling his strategic reserves, he stopped the German offensive and launched a war-winning counterattack.

Army captain Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle (author of France‘s national anthem, La Marseillaise), Antoine Marie-Roger de Saint-Exupery (author of “The Little Prince”) and Pierre Auguste Roques (founder of the French Air Force and Minister of War in 1916) are also buried here.

Tomb of Hubert Lyautey

Tomb of Hubert Lyautey (November 17, 1854 – July 27, 1934), a French Army general and colonial administrator who, after serving in Indochina and Madagascar, became the first French Resident-General in Morocco from 1912 to 1925. Early in 1917, he served briefly as Minister of War and, from 1921, was a Marshal of France. He was dubbed the French empire builder and, in 1931, made the cover of Time.

Vauban’s monument, in the Chapel of St.-Theresa, replaced by a black marble coffin made by the sculptor Antoine Etex in 1808, depicts Vauban semi-recumbent, holding a compass and meditating on his writings. He is surrounded by the veiled figure of Science and the figure of War wearing a helmet. On top of the coffin is an obelisk surrounded by flags and standards. On the base is an inscription and a bas-relief referring to Vauban’s project for a royal tithe and celebrating the political and reformatory aspect of Vauban’s work.

Vauban's Tomb

Tomb of Sebastien le Preste de Vauban (May 1, 1633 – March 30, 1707), a French military engineer who served under Louis XIV who is generally considered the greatest engineer of his time, and one of the most important in Western military history. His principles for fortifications were widely used for nearly 100 years, while aspects of his offensive tactics remained in use until the mid-twentieth century.

Turenne’s monument shows the Marshal General of France, under Louis XIV, expiring in the arms of Immortality, who crowns him with laurels, as she lifts him to Heaven. At the marshal’s feet is an eagle, representing the Holy Roman Empire, over which he had several victories.

Turenne's Tomb

Tomb of Turenne (September 11, 1611 – July 27, 1675), a French general and one of only six Marshals to have been promoted Marshal General of France. The most illustrious member of the La Tour d’Auvergne family, his military exploits over his five-decade career earned him a reputation as one of the greatest military commanders in modern history.

From the Dome Chapel, we moved on to the main courtyard which is is the central area of the Hôtel National des Invalides. Many events unfolded here and a large part of the artillery collections of the Army Museum  (musée de l’armée)  is displayed here. The Army Museum has one of the most impressive collections of artillery pieces. It had its beginnings in 1872 when the musée d’artillerie (Artillery Museum), whose collections were gathered together during the Revolution, was located within the building.  Later, in 1896, it was joined by the musée historique des armées (Historical Museum of the Armies). In 1905, the two institutions were merged to form the present musée de l’armée.

The main courtyard

The main courtyard

At the Main Courtyard, we were presented an exceptional array of 60 French classical bronze cannons, jewels of the artillery collections of the Army Museum, plus a dozen howitzers and mortars. Tracing 200 years of the history of French field artillery, we discovered how these pieces were manufactured, their roles and the epic of great French artillerymen.

An array of French classical cannons

An array of French classical cannons

The first models of French classical cannons, along with a few adaptations, were developed by the Keller brothers in 1666. These highly popular, large-caliber cannons were used in sieges against fortified towns during the wars of Louis XIV and made the successes of Vauban possible.

French classical cannon

In 1732, a royal ordinance laid down by regulations that cannons be decorated with heraldic and mythological ornamentations. A series of 30 of these prestigious cannons are on display.

Gribeauval cannon (1780s)

Gribeauval cannon (1780s)

From 1764, French classical cannons were replaced by cannons of the Gribeauval system  (named after its creator) This new, easier to handle and better organized artillery excelled during the revolutionary and imperial wars. Napoleon Bonaparte, who trained as an artilleryman, was able to put it to wonderful use, notably during the two Italian campaigns and the battles of Friedland and Wagram. From 1825 onwards, the Valée systems succeeded the Gribeauval system. The cannons of the two systems were more functional and had fewer decorations than French classical cannons.

12 pounder Napoleon cannon

12 pounder Napoleon cannon

Eight mortars, made for the sieges of the revolutionary and imperial wars, were also on display while, on exhibit at the corners of the courtyard, are two large howitzers, designed to bombard Cadiz, when the French army besieged this city in 1810. The howitzers could fire shells from a distance of nearly 6 kms., an unprecedented achievement at that time.

One of 8 mortars on display

One of 8 mortars on display

Hôtel National des Invalides:  129 rue de Grenelle 75007 Paris, France. Tel: +33 (0)1 44 42 37 72. Fax: +33 (0)1 44 42 35 14. E-mail: infos-ma@invalides.org. Website : www.invalides.org.

Open daily, October 1 to 31 and March (10 AM to 5 PM), April 1 to September 30 (10 AM to 6 PM).  Closed every first Monday in the month, January 1, May 1, September 1 and December 25.
Dome and tomb have same opening times but is accessible from 10 AM to 7 PM from June 15 to September 15. Admission: €9,5.

How to Get There: By Metro (Line 8, Invalides station), RER (Line C, Invalides station), buses  28, 49, 63, 69, 82, 87, 92.