Labo Town Proper (Camarines Norte)

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About 15 kms. out of Daet, we again made a short stopover at the busy, 648.84 sq. km. (more than 25% of the province’s total land area) and first-class municipality of Labo (2010 population: 92,041, the province’s most populous) where Bernard and I bought some shades at the market.

Labo town proper

Labo town proper

From the market, I walked over to the nearby Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist and the modern, 2-storey municipal hall for my own photo ops.

Labo Municipal Hall

Labo Municipal Hall

The church was built in 1890 by Fr. Sotero Martin (parish priest from 1891 to 1894).

Church of St. John the Evangelist & Apostle

Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church has a 2-level, Baroque-style coralstone facade with a triangular pediment with a centrally located, semicircular arched statued niche and topped by a square bell tower.

The lower level has a centrally located, semicircular arched main entrance flanked by fluted pilasters (topped by urn-like finials) and semicircular arched statued niches.

Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist: Brgy. Burgos, Labo 4604. Tel: ()54) 447-6325. Feast of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist: May 6.

Labo Municipal Hall: National Highway, Labo 4604. Tel: (054) 721-7412.  E-mail: inquiries@labo.gov.ph. Website: www.labo.gov.ph.

Back to Camarines Norte

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Municipal Guest House

For the third time this year, I was again invited to visit Daet, in Camarines Norte, this time to cover its Pinyasan Festival as well as the 150th birth anniversary of Jose Rizal, the town being the site of our National Hero’s first monument.  I was joined by event organizer Mr. Bernard Supetran, professional photographer Mr. Lee Llamas, travel writers Mr. Timothy Jay “TJ” A. Ibay of What’s On and Ms. Karla Marcia Rey, and travel blogger (and Karla’s boyfriend) Mr. Orlando “Lan” Cajigal.   We all left via a 9 PM airconditioned bus at the Philtranco terminal in Pasay City, all sitting at the rear of the bus.  This was to be my first long-haul bus (8-9 hrs.) trip to Daet, my first being by plane to Naga City (plus a 2-hr. van drive back to Daet) and the two others by van.

Surfer’s Dine Inn

Our 6 AM arrival at Daet was heralded with a crash as our bus’ roof  scraped the low ceiling of the bus shed.  Poor bus driver (salary deduction).  Our trusty driver from the Provincial Tourism Office, Mr. Amable Miranda, was on hand at the terminal to pick us up with a van.  We were first brought to Surfer’s Dine Inn, along Bagasbas Blvd., for an early Filipino breakfast (mine was pork chops). Here, we were met by Provincial Tourism Officer and good friend Atty. Debbee Francisco.  Amable then brought us to the Municipal Guest House, also along Bagasbas Blvd., where we freshened up and rested for a short while.   We were all slated to go overnight camping at Tinaga Island, one of the famed Calaguas Islands.  This was to be my second visit and the first for the rest.We left Bagasbas by 8 AM for the leisurely drive to Minaongan Fish Port in Paracale, bringing along just enough personal necessities for our overnight camping (plus some borrowed pillows and blankets from the guesthouse).  The national highway unusually passed through the gated property (which was closed at night) of the modern Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity (consecrated on  September 1, 1984).  Here we made a brief stopover for photo ops.

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity

Return to Tinaga Island and Mahabang Buhangin (Camarines Norte)

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Mahabang Buhangin Beach

We finally arrived at Minaogan Fish Port in Paracale by 10 AM.  Here, a motorized outrigger boat, much smaller than the 25-pax boat I used during my first visit (which was grounded with a damaged propeller), was made available for our use.  Ms. Genelyn Angel S. David, a member of Debbee’s staff, also joined us here.  As it was still low tide, we had to wade the shallow waters to get to the boat, Debbee accidentally dipping (and ruining) her mobile phone while doing so. We were on soon our way, the 2-hr. boat trip being uneventful as the sea was calm.

My second Mahabang Buhangin sunset

We arrived at Tinaga Island by noontime, making landfall at the famed white sand of Mahabang Buhangin.  Lunch was still a long way off as the supplies had to be unloaded, followed by food preparation and cooking.  While waiting for lunch, we set the 4 Coleman dome tents provided for us.  Lunch was ready by the time we were done and we all feasted, kamayan style, on fried chicken, steamed rice and grilled squid.   After this late repast, we rested for a while or chatted.  Later, in the afternoon, Karla, Lan, Angel, Debbee and I plus 2 young island boys, both brothers, who acted as our guides, made our way along the beach to the base of a hill on the previously unexplored (by me) south side of the island.  From here, it was all uphill and downhill, along a well-marked trail, through a thick forest and, finally, through cogon (spear) grass.  Here, we had a somewhat obstructed view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  After some photo ops, we made our way back to the beach where Lee had already set up his camera, eagerly awaiting the sunset.  Though not as unobstructed by clouds as during my first visit, it was still just as spectacular.

Mahabang Buhangin viewed from the south hill

While waiting for lunch, we set the 4 Coleman dome tents provided for us.  Lunch was ready by the time we were done and we all feasted, kamayan style, on fried chicken, steamed rice and grilled squid.   After this late repast, we rested for a while or chatted.  Later, in the afternoon, Karla, Lan, Angel, Debbee and I plus 2 young island boys, both brothers, who acted as our guides, made our way along the beach to the base of a hill on the previously unexplored (by me) south side of the island.  From here, it was all uphill and downhill, along a well-marked trail, through a thick forest and, finally, through cogon (spear) grass.  Here, we had a somewhat obstructed view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  After some photo ops, we made our way back to the beach where Lee had already set up his camera, eagerly awaiting the sunset.  Though not as unobstructed by clouds as during my first visit, it was still just as spectacular.

Footprints in the sand

Back in our camp, dinner was already being prepared and soon we were dining, with flashlights, on grilled pork chops, laing and steamed rice.  Too early for sleeping, we chatted away till 11 PM when we decided to call it a night and retire to our tents.  Come morning, we awoke to a delicious breakfast of longanisa, fried egg, coffee and fried rice.  The weather that morning, however, was overcast and soon it started to drizzle.  Typhoon Egay had now made landfall.  Still, this did not dampen our spirit for adventure and Lee, Angel, Karla, Lan, TJ, Debbee, Bernard and I hiked along the beach to the north side of the island where Lee did a fashion shoot, at the beach and among rock formations, with Angel as model.  After the shoot, Lee and Angel made their way back to the camp while rest of us made our way up the hill, first through a light forest, then out into a grassy clearing where we had a panoramic view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  Further up, we had  360 degree view of both Mahabang Buhangin and nearby offshore islands. Below us was another white sand beach.  Thus sated, we made our way down the hill to the beach and back to the camp.

Casa San Miguel: Zambales’ Center for the Arts

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The Pundaquit Virtuosi in concert


Upon the culmination of the 3-km. Novice Race, Bernard, Lally, Kara, Art, Amadis and I left Anvaya Cove in Morong (Bataan) to attend the concert of the Pundaquit Virtuosi at Casa San Miguel (CSM), in San Antonio in Zambales as guests of internationally-acclaimed violinist Alfonso “Coke” Bolipata.  Bernard and Lally’s 15-year old son George, a violin student at CSM, went there earlier. CSM, the CCP of Zambales, is the province’s sole center for culture and the arts and is the venue for the annual Pundaquit Arts Festival. The concert, held at the Ramon Corpuz L. Concert Hall for intimate performances, was already at its closing stages when we arrived in the evening, just in time to witness its final number and, after heartwarming applause, its accompanying encore.  After that performance, we joined in on the dinner prepared for guests by Coke.     

Casa San Miguel


Casa San Miguel, a 45-min. drive from Subic, is set amidst a mango orchard between the mountain and the sea, a setting which encourages and inspires artists to hone their skills freely as they play harmoniously with the sounds of the surrounding scenery.  It started out as a seaside family retreat built in 1921. In 1993, Coke, after returning from his studies at the Julliard School of Music in New York and the University of Indiana, established an art center there after the old house burned down. To start up the center, Coke offered workshops designed to identify and develop potential talents in classical music, theater, shadow play and visual arts. He even taught the children of farmers and fisher folk for free. The center is committed to exposing the community to different cultural forms, particularly classical music, as well as to the continued development and support of the Filipino artist and to the development of the new artist and audiences for the next generation.

 
Ramon L. Corpus Concert Hall


This art center, now a playground for the music, theater and visual art prodigies of Zambales, has a grand 3-storey brick building that serves as the home of the Bolipatas’ protégés. The airconditioned, 300-pax Ramon L. Corpus Concert Hall (named after Coke’s grandfather), on the ground floor, has a 7-ft. grand piano and crisp, clear acoustics.  It houses several chamber orchestra concerts, theater plays, operettas, and ballet productions.  Celebrated Filipino classical pianist Cecile Licad performed here during a recent concert.  

Casa San Miguel bedroom


Upstairs are separate concert halls for intimate performances and music lessons while at the third and attic floors are 7 bedrooms with views of Mt. Pundaquit and Mt. Maubanban on one side and the South China Sea on their other.  The 2-storey Anita Gallery (at the center’s western wing), whose wide spaces and translucent walls are a blank canvas for creativity, was named after the modernist/genre painter Anita Magsaysay-Ho, a native and niece of Ramon L. Corpuz.  This gallery has exhibited the works of brilliant artists such as Carlo Gacubo, Don Sanlubayba and Borlongan.  A coffee shop, called Kapepe, serves light snacks, dinner and refreshments using organically grown vegetables harvested from the Casa San Miguel farm and the nearby sea. Outside is a 1,000-seat, circular outdoor theater that serves as an alternative venue for productions  that require more space such as full-orchestra concerts and elaborate theater and dance performances. There is also a sunken terraced garden, with a miniature stage (where masses are held on Sundays), designed to offer visitors a meditative retreat while waiting for the beginning of a performance.

 
Pundaquit Virtuosi rehearsal with Coke Bolipata


Every 3 months, CSM regularly holds classes for violin, cello, viola, visual arts, theater production and shadow play with young and talented students attending classes given one-on-one by Coke and assistant teachers every weekend. To date, the center has 150 scholars (1,200 since 1996) who are provided with free board and lodging.  In exchange, they are required to devote a portion of their residency period to lecturing, giving demonstrations and workshop-seminars; or to teaching skills to the surrounding communities as part of their development and enhancement. The artists also have the optional opportunity to present their products, finished or unfinished (as a work-in-progress), at CSM’s different venues.   Classes culminate with a performance or exhibit held at CSM. Some of CSM’s graduates make up the Pundaquit Virtuosi which is divided into Quadros (those skilled in arts) and Cuedras (those skilled in music). Last June 6, 2007, in Makati City, the Pundaquit Virtuosi had the honor of performing with the famed New York sextet of Juilliard School, violinists William Harvey and Frank Shaw, and cellist Jeremiah Shaw. In collaboration with various organizations and the community, the Pundaquit Chamber Players, CSM’s resident ensemble, performs at the Pundaquit Festival which is held yearly, between October and April. 

L-R: George Supetran, the author, Lally Supetran, Coke Bolipata, Bernard Supetran, Amadis Ma. Guerrero  and Kara Santos


Casa San Miguel Center for the Arts: Brgy. Pundaquit, San Antonio, Zambales.

Arrival at Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club (Morong, Bataan)

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Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club

Last Saturday, I was invited by events organizer Bernard Supetran to again cover (the first time was last year) the first leg of the Philippine Kayaking Series, the longest running kayaking series in the country, held at Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club in Morong, Bataan.

Gen. Manager George B. Cadhit (center)

Joining us was Bernard’s wife Lally; Mr. Amadis Ma. Guerrero of Philippine Daily Inquirer; Ms. Kara Santos of Sunday Inquirer, with husband Mr. Art Fuentes; and photographers Mr. Edwin Tuyay, of Bloomberg Now, and Mr. Mike Policarpio.

Members of media touring the resort

We left Manila, via a van, by 8:30 AM and reached Anvaya Cove in Morong in Bataan, after a 145-km. drive via NLEX and SCTEX, by 10:30 AM.  Upon arrival at Anvaya, we were all welcomed by Gen. Manager Mr. George B. Cadhit.  As the 32-km. kayak marathon was still underway, we still had time to explore the facilities of the resort and George gladly toured us around.

Check out “Resort Feature: Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club“

Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club: Brgy. Mabayo, Morong, Bataan.  Tel: (02) 793-9000.  Fax: (02) 793-9088.  E-mail: reservations@anvayacove.com. Website: www.anvayacove.com.

Vinanmek Mansion (Bangkok, Thailand)

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Included in the admission ticket to the Grand Palace was free entry to the Vimanmek Palace (also called the Vimanmek Teak Mansion), at the Dusit Palace Complex, and we next proceeded there.  The world’s largest building made of golden teak, its elaborate style reflects a unique blend of Victorian and delicate Thai architecture. The mansion is one of 16 mansions or residential halls (out of 20) in the complex that can be visited by tourists.

Vinanmek Mansion

A former royal palace, it was built in 1900 by King Chulalongkorn (King Rama V, 1868-1910), a few years after his return from Europe in 1897, using his personal money to purchase orchards and paddy fields between Padung Krungkasem Canal and Samsen Canal for the construction of a royal garden which he named the Dusit Garden. Vimanmek Mansion was the first permanent residence there.  Upon its completion, King Rama V then transferred here from the Grand Palace and stayed for 5 years until the completion of Amporn Satan Residence in 1906 (where he live until his death). Vimanmek Mansion was then closed down and members of the royal family moved back to the Grand Palace. In 1982, it was renovated and converted into a museum.

Octagonal Wing Where King Rama V Resided

This 72-room building has 2 right-angled wings, each 60 m. long and 20 m. wide. It is 3-storeyed except for the octagonal part, where King Rama V resided, which has 4 storeys.  Although the ground floor is brick and cement, the upper floors are made with beautiful golden teakwood.

Entrance Stairway to Vinanmek Mansion

Before touring, we had to put all our belongings in a locker (same as in the Jim Thompson House).  It was also a shame we can’t take photos inside.  Before entering, we also had to remove our shoes and wait our turn.  The mansion was a veritable museum that displays the king’s photographs, art and artifacts that commemorate his royal visit to Europe.  We also viewed an exhibit of Thai handicrafts in 31 exhibition rooms, some of which maintain the atmosphere of the past, especially the bedrooms, the Audience Chamber and the bathrooms. Some rooms display silverware, ceramics, glassware and ivory.

Vinanmek Mansion: Ratchawithi Rd., Dusit, Bangkok, Thailand.  Tel: +66 2 628 6300 Ext. 5120-5121.  Fax: +66 2 628 6300 Ext. 5136.  Website: www.vinanmek.com.

Grand Palace (Bangkok, Thailand)

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On our third day in Bangkok, we availed of a tour from the travel agency at the hotel, of the fabulous Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang), the gem of Bangkok’s impressive collection of temples and palaces, and its adjoining Wat Phra Kaew (Chapel Royal of the Emerald Buddha), Thailand’s most important temple. This would the first for Jandy and Cheska. After breakfast at the hotel, we were picked up at the hotel lobby by a good English-speaking guide (he seemed to be of Indian ancestry) and driven to the palace in a sedan.

Marching Soldiers Entering the Palace Gate

We arrived at the palace just when a troop of marching soldiers, dressed in colorful ceremonial uniforms, were entering the gate along Na Phra Lan Road, on the north side, to the palace’s Outer Court and we followed at their heels.  The weather was sunny but extremely hot. Whether you take a guided tour or not, the route through the  complex is more or less fixed, with the Wat Phra Kaeo first and the Grand Palace last.

Grand Palace’s Outer Court

Nowadays, the Grand Palace, the official residence of the king of Thailand from the 18th century to the mid-20th century, is used only for occasional ceremonial purposes and is no longer the royal residence as King Bhumibol (Rama IX) lives in Chitralada Palace (closed to tourists) which is located not too far away in Bangkok’s Dusit district, near Dusit Zoo. However, the interiors of most of the buildings in the Grand Palace remain closed to the public.

Wat Phra Kaeo Entrance Guarded by 2 Yakshis (mythical giants)

Sitting on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, this complex of of shrines, temples, royal halls and apartment buildings, despite their proximity, have a distinct contrast in style, the Grand Palace being European-inspired in architecture  (the roof being the exception) and the Wat Phra Kaew very Thai.  It covers 218,400 sq.m. and is surrounded by a 1,900 m. long wall.

Wat Phra Kaeo

The 94.5-hectare (234-acre) Wat Phra Kaeo, built in 1782 during the reign of King Rama I, has a roof embellished with polished orange and green tiles, pillars inlaid in mosaic and pediments made of rich marble. The temple houses the small (45 cm. tall), beautiful, gold-clothed and greatly revered Emerald Buddha, carved from a block of fine green jade (instead of emerald) sitting on a high throne under a golden filigree canopy. As in all Thai temples, we were required to remove our shoes or sandals before entering.  Bare feet are not allowed either. We also weren’t allowed to take pictures inside.

A Gallery Filled with Murals

In the middle of the complex is the Phra Mondop, a library built in Thai style by Rama I.  It houses elegantly carved, Ayutthaya-style mother-of-pearl doors, bookcases with the tripitaka (sacred Buddhist manuscripts), human-and dragon-headed nagas (snakes), and images of Chakri kings.

Phra Mondhob

Enclosing this temple complex are galleries with typically Thai murals that feature lovely paintings depicting 178 unbelievably vivid and detailed scenes from the Indian epic Ramayama (Ramakien in Thai) that show the heroic tale of Rama of Ayodhya and his war against the giant Ravana, king of Lonka.

Phra Sri Rattana Chedi

The Upper Terrace has 4 main monuments: the Phra Sri Rattana Chedi, the Repository of the Canon of Buddhism, the Prasart Phra Dedidorn (the model of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat presented to King Mongkut)  and the Prasat Phra Thep Bidon.  The Phra Sri Ratana Chedi, located west of Wat Phra Kaeo, is a 19th century stupa built in Sri Lankan style.  It enshrines the ashes of the Buddha.

Prasat Phra Thep Bidon

The Prasat Phra Thep Bidon (Royal Pantheon), crowned with a high filigree prang, contains the relics of the previous kings of the Chakri Dynasty.  It has lovely kinnara (half man, half bird) statues up front.

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

The Grand Palace has two groups of residences: the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall and the Phra Maha Monthian. The Italian Renaissance-influenced Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, built in 1882 by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), is a remarkable mixture of European and traditional Thai styles. Each wing has a shrine (mandap) crowned by a spire and has 3 prangs instead of domes.  This palace houses elegant staterooms and an exhibition of the royal weapons collection at the ground floor.

The Phra Maha Monthian consists of the Amarin Winitchai Audience Hall  and the Paisal Taksin Hall which features the monarchy’s coronation chair.  The Amarin Winitchai Audience Hall was where court ceremonies took place before the throne. It has a very interesting 4-tiered roof and a very pretty pavilion in front of it (Amporn Phimok Prasad).

At the eastern end is the Borombhiman Hall, built in the French architectural style.  Formerly the residence of King Rama VI, it is now used as guest house for visiting foreign dignitaries.

Borombhiman Hall

Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew: Open daily, 8:30 AM-4:30 PM.

How to Get There: take bus 44, 47 and 91 and drop off at Thaiwang Road, between Wat Pho and Wat Phra Kaew. You can also take bus 1, 25, 44, 47, 82 and 91 and drop off at Maharat Road, west of Wat Phra Kaew. North of Wat Phra Kaew, on nearby Sanam Luang, you can also take bus 3, 15, 30, 32, 43, 44, 59, 64, 70, 80, 123 and 201 as well as airconditioned bus 6, 7, 12, 39 and 44.  The Tha Chang river express boat stop is also very near.

Chao Phraya River Cruise (Thailand)

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After our Wat Phra Mongkhon Bophit tour in Ayutthaya Historical Park, we all returned to our coach and were all brought to Potangtai Pier near Bangsai (the royal folk arts and handicrafts center) for the start of our 2.5 hr. Chao Phraya River cruise from Ayutthaya back to Bangkok on board the modern and luxurious cruiser Grand Pearl.  From Ayutthaya, we would be passing through Pathumthani and Nonthaburi provinces before arriving in Bangkok.

The Grand Pearl

On board, we were in for a late but delicious buffet lunch of mostly spicy Thai and international cuisine served within the luxurious confines of the cruise boat.  All 4 of us sat in a comfortable, u-shaped booth beside a large viewing window.

Dining, Buffet-Style, on Thai Cuisine

Throughout our lunch, we watched the scenery along the banks Chao Phraya River banks within the refreshing airconditioned cabin lounge.  By 3:30 PM, midway through our cruise,  a refreshing beverage of tea or coffee and cookies were also served to the guests.

The Airconditioned Cabin Lounge

After our filling lunch, some guests proceeded to lounge at the wooden sun deck  at the front of the cruiser while the majority, including us, opted to remain in airconditioned comfort at the cabin lounge.

The Sun Deck of the Grand Pearl

Sometimes, I would also go up the sun deck, amidst the fresh cool tropical air and warm, afternoon sun, to get an amazingly clearer view of the life of the inhabitants that dwell along the river and the unforgettable scenery of children as they greet the visitors going by.

Houses Mounted on Stilts

We would watch various kinds of river craft, from barges, smaller wooden pleasure cruise boats to traditional, long-tail boats, their engines invariably mounted on an inboard, turret-like pole which can rotate through 180 degrees, allowing steering by thrust vectoring.

Long-Tail Boats

The architectural scenery also varies; from simple houses on stilts to modern villas, to modern medium-rise (Mandarin Oriental Hotel) and high-rise (The Peninsula Bangkok) hotels, from traditional Thai temples (the graceful Wat Arun,  Wat Kanlayanamit, Wat Rakang Khosittaram, Wat Pathum Khongkha) to old Roman Catholic churches (Church of the Holy Cross) and from magnificent palaces (Grand Palace, Bang Khunprom Palace, etc.) to engineering marvels (King Rama VIII Bridge).

Royal Barge Museum

The Royal Barge Museum, on the banks of the Bangkok Noi Canal , is a huge boathouse that displays 8 finely-crafted Thai royal barges (including 4 for the king). The majestic Suphannahongsa (“golden swan,” the personal barge of the King, carved out of a single teak tree trunk, was completed in 1911.

King Rama VIII Bridge

The asymmetrical, cable-stayed, 2.45 km. long (including approach spans) Rama VII Bridge, opened on September 20, 2002, has a single, inverted Y-shaped tower, a sleek superstructure and gold-colored suspension cables arranged on single and double planes.

Bang Khun Phrom Palace (Bank of Thailand Museum)

The Baroque cum Art Nouveau Bang Khun Phrom Palace, the former residence (until 1932) of HRH Prince Paribatra Sukhumbhand, the 33rd son of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), now houses the Bank of Thailand (BOT) Museum. The museum has 14 rooms many of which display the history of Thai currency and the Bank of Thailand.

Wat Arun

Wat Arun, recognizable by its central, 66.8 m. high prang (Khmer-style tower) topped with a 7-pronged trident, was started in 1809.  It is called the “Temple of the Dawn” because the first light of morning reflects off the surface of the temple with a pearly iridescence.  By the side of the river are 6 Chinese-style pavilions made of green granite and containing landing bridges.

Wat Rakang Kosittaram

Wat Rakang Kosittaram (Temple of the Bells), built during the Ayutthaya period, was later reconstructed and upgraded as a Royal Temple by King Taksin. The main features of the temple is the bell tower whose bells gave the name temple the name “Rakang” (Thai for “bell”).

Wat Kalayanamit

The massive, mid-nineteenth century  Wat Kalayanamit is well known for its 15.45 m. high and 11.75 m. wide Phra Buddha Trai Rattana Nayok (Luang Po To), called Sum Po Hud Kong in Chinese, which is Bangkok’s biggest Buddha image.

Sunanthalai Building (Royal Seminary)

The elegant, century-old Neo-Classical Sunanthalai Building, within the compound of Rajini School (the first girl’s school operated by Thais, founded by Queen Saowapa), was built  by King Rama V in memory of Queen Sunantha Kumariratana who drowned in the Chao Phraya River  on May 31, 1880.  It was restored after a fire in 2005.

Church of the Holy Cross

Nestled among old houses on the river banks and newer buildings inland, recognizable by its reddish dome, is the Church of the Holy Cross (Santa Cruz Church), one of Bangkok’s many old Catholic churches.  First built in wood in 1770 during the reign of King Taksin (1867–1782), it was rebuilt in 1835.  The present church, built in 1916, was designed by Italian architects Annibale Rigotti and Mario Tamagno.

River City Shopping Complex

Other sights along the river include  Thammasart University (Tha Prachan Center), Pom Pra Athit, and the Holy Rosary Church (the oldest Catholic Church in Thailand, also known as Wat Kalawar).  Our cruise ended when we docked at the River City Shopping Complex Pier, Si Phraya in Bangkok by 5 PM.  Altogether, it was a worthwhile experience.

Grand Pearl Cruises: 19/394 Chaovalitr Village, Rimklong Bangkor Rd., Chomthong, Bangkok, Thailand.  Tel: 084-1361199 and 081-9005429.

Wat Phra Mongkhon Bophit (Ayutthaya, Thailand)

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From the ruins at the Ayutthaya Historical Park, we moved on to the Wat Phra Mongkhon Bophit, southwest of Phra Si Sanphet and south of the Royal Palace ruins. As with any temple visit, we were required to remove our shoes.  What is remarkable here is the gigantic Phra Mongkhon Bophit (Buddha of the Holy and Supremely Auspicious Reverence), the Ayutthaya bronze Buddha installed in the viharn. It is similar to the Ayutthaya-style bronze Buddha in Wat  Phanan Choeng at the southeast corner of old Ayutthaya.

Phra Mongkhon Bophit Temple

The bronze Buddha, one of the largest in Thailand, was sculpted in 1538 during the reign of King Chairacha (r. 1534-1547) at Wat Chi Chiang Sai. It had previously been damaged by lightning and was restored in the Rama V period. The vihara building we see today was rebuilt during the rule of Field Marshal Phibunsongkhram in the early 20th century.”  Its Buddha was previously enshrine in a mandapa (square-roofed structure). However, during the reign of King Sua (r. 1703-1709), it was recorded that when lightning struck the spire of this building, the roof caved in and the bronze head broke off.

Phra Mongkhon Bophit

King Sua had the mandapa demolished and a new tall preaching hall built.  The vihara and the image were badly destroyed by fire during the fall of Ayutthaya in April 1767. The roof of the vihara was damaged and the head and the right arm of the image were broken. In 1920, the broken head and right arm were repaired by Phraya Boran Rachathanin during the reign of King Rama VI. In 1931, another restoration took place with the financial support of Khunying Amares Sombat.  During restoration works on the statue in 1955, a quantity of Buddha images were found on the left shoulder of Phra Mongkhon Bophit. These images can now be seen at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.

The Prime Minister of Burma on official visit in Ayutthaya in 1956 gave a donation for the restoration of the vihara. The vihara was finalised in 1957, but not with the same beautiful craftsmanship of the former one.  The statue of Phra Mongkhon Bophit was covered with gold leaf in 1992 by the Mongkhon Bophit Foundation, in celebration of the 60th birthday of H.M. Queen Sirikit. The Phra Mongkhon Bophit, seated in the position of Subduing Mara, measures about 9.5 m. across the lap and a height of 12.5 m. (without the pedestal).

Wat Mahathat (Ayutthaya, Thailand)

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From Bang Pa-in Palace, our tourist bus next traveled, 10 kms., to the very heart of the city of Ayutthaya.  Here, we dropped off at Wat Mahathat (Temple of the Great Relics) in Ayutthaya World Heritage Historical Park, perhaps the most striking of all of the temples in the city. Wat Mahathat was said to have been built in 1384 by King Rachatirat as a symbolic center  to enshrine a relic of the Buddha although others say it was more likely built during the reign of King Boromaraja I (1370-88). The temple was also the residence of the Sangaraja, the Supreme Patriarch or leader of the Kamavasi (City Dwelling) sect of Thai Buddhist monks.

Wat Mahathat

During the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, Wat Mahathat was set on fire by Burmese invaders. The monastery was restored and remodeled many times in the later Ayutthaya period, until it finally collapsed on May 25, 1904. Only the symmetrical laterite base of the main prang (Khmer-style tower), with staircases on the 4 sides, and some of its upper structure remains. There are rows of headless Buddhas and traces of rows of columns that once supported the roof structure of the verandah that enclosed the chedi.

The Much-Photographed Buddha in a Tree

Scattered around the temple are some important remains of variously-shaped prangs and chedis, in particular an octagonal chedi with a truncated spire in the Ceylonese style. Nearby, the head of a still much-revered statue of the Buddha lies on the ground. The much photographed stone head of one Buddha is entwined in the roots of a Banyan tree.  Although only partially restored, the existing ruins are still vast and imposing, giving us an insight into what was once a most important religious center.

Octagonal Chedi

As in most architecture of the early period of Ayutthaya, Wat Maha That consisted basically of a large, 46 m. (150 ft. ) high central prang surrounded by 4 subsidiary prangs at the 4 inter-cardinal points, standing on a raised square platform. Around 1625, the top portion of the main central prang collapsed, but was restored and heightened by some 4 m. (13 ft.) in 1633. In 1911, the main prang collapsed again and only the foundation of the main prang remains at present.

Base of Central Prang

East of the main prang is the rectangular, 40 m. by 20 m. Wihan Luang (Royal Assembly Hall), orientated towards Khlong Pratu Khao Pluak. The vihara had a front porch (east) which could be reached by 3 staircases. There was also an entry into the hall from both sides. Behind the main pedestal were two exits leading down to the gallery. The multi-tiered roof of the viharn was supported by 2 rows of columns. The hall contained mural paintings of the Vessantara Jataka. Wihan Luang has undergone several restorations in the past as well as in recent times.

Wihan Luang (Royal Assembly Hall)

West of the main prang is the rectangular Phra Ubosot (Ordination Hall).  The hall had a double entry to the west and two exits on the sides, near the main pedestal which contained the presiding Buddha image. The hall was surrounded by an inner wall called kamphaeng kaew (literally “crystal wall”), forming an inner court which gave access to the, gallery. Outside and around the ubosot were 8 boundary stones or marker slabs (bai sema) at the 8 cardinal points in order to demarcate the sacred area of the Sangkha (Buddhist brotherhood).

Phra Ubosot

In 1956, a secret chamber was uncovered in the ruins; among the treasures found inside were a solid gold lion sitting in a fish-shaped container decorated with a gilded motif and filled with other gold accessories, gold jewelry, a gold casket containing a relic of the Buddha, and fine tableware.

Wat Mahathat: cor. Chikun Road and Naresuan Road, Tha Wasukri sub-district, Ayutthaya, Thailand.