Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Basco, Batanes)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Chapel)

After checking in and having a breakfast of fried dibang (flying fish) with pako salad, fried egg and rice at Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel, we were all picked, at 12 noon, by our guide Harvey Gutierrez for our North Batan Tour on board a Toyota van of A.A.B. Travel and Tours.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel”

Harbour Cafe

A short 2.3 km. (5-min.) drive brought us to Harbour Café where we had lunch before starting our tour.  The café has a good view of Basco Port.

After lunch, we again boarded our van for another short, 2.9-km. (7-min.) drive to Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel.  Parking along the road, we climbed a short flight of steps to get to the chapel.

Grace and Jandy

Also known as Tukon (tukon means “mountain” in the Ivatan dialect) Chapel, this project of the late Henedina “Dina” R. Abad (former Batanes Congresswoman) and her husband Florencio “Butch” B. Abad (former Department of Education Secretary) was built to help Tukon’s residents, especially the older ones, avoid the long walk to Basco to attend church services.

Interior of the chapel

Adopting the design of a traditional Ivatan house (stacking and bonding boulders to make a wall), local craftsmen, masons and carpenters built the church and it is the only chapel embodying such design.

Continue Reading →

Balangay Boat Building Site (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

The author (left) at the Balangay Boat Building Site

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After our short ocular visit to Magsaysay Bridge, we next drove to the 10.6-acre Balangay Boat Building Area Tree Park, along the Agusan River, where the quincentennial balanghais, Raya Siyagu (with 10 gross tonnage), named after the ruler of Butuan-Caraga, and Raya Kolambu (with 8 gross tonnage), named after the former’s sibling, who was the ruler of Mazaua, are drydocked.  The former was in urgent need for repair while latter still looked seaworthy.

The story of the balanghai (also called balangay) replicas begins in 2009 when the Kaya ng Pinoy Inc., the team (headed by Arturo “Art” Valdez, former undersecretary of the DENR and DTI) that conquered Mount Everest in 2006, announced plans to reconstruct a balanghai boat, with the help of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya) and other tribal members, from Sibutu and Sitangkai Islands of Tawi-Tawi, who retained the lashed-lug boat-building techniques which were mostly lost in other islands.

Raya Kolambu (formerly the Lahi ng Maharlika)

Three balanghais, namely the Diwata ng Lahi, Masawa Hong Butuan, and the 75 ft. long, 15 ft. wide and 9 ft. high Sama Tawi-Tawi (launched 16, 2010)  were constructed, with old doongan (Heriteriera littoralis) and other Philippine hardwoods (all donated by former Sulu governor Abdusakur Mahail Tan), by the team of Arturo Valdez at Manila Bay, at a 1,000 sq. m. site at Liwasang Ullalim at the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex. The special wood for construction came from the established traditional source in southern Philippines, specifically Tawi-Tawi. The team have pinpointed Sama-Bajau master boat builders, whose predecessors actually built such boats, and used traditional tools during the construction.

A replica balanghai at sea

The boats will try to retrace the 1417 voyage of Sultan Paduka Batara (with 340 followers) of Sulu, from the Philippines to Fujian province in China (to pay tribute to the third Ming Dynasty Chinese emperor Zhu Di (or Yongle).  In September 1417, he arrived in Quanzhou but died there, from natural causes, and is buried in in Dezhou, Shandong, 320 kms. south of Beijing.  Kamulin, the sultan’s wife, and two sons (Andulu and Wenhalla) remained in China to tend to his tomb.  The emperor granted them lands and resources.  About 3,000 to 6,000 of their descendants still live there.

On September 1, 2009, all three journeyed, from Manila Bay, to the southern tip of Sulu,  tracing the routes of Filipino ancestors during the waves of Austronesian settlement through Maritime Southeast Asia and the Pacific.  On May 1, 2010, after an 8-month cruise, they arrived in Zamboanga City, after 70 multiport stopovers, covering 2,500 kms. The balanghais were navigated via the old method used by the ancient mariners – steering by the Sun, the stars, the wind, cloud formations, wave patterns and bird migrations.  Covering a distance of 3,908 kms. (2,108 nautical mi.), along the way, they stopped off at numerous Philippine cities to promote the project.

The second leg of the voyage, from 2010 to 2011, saw them navigate around South East Asia – Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Cambodia, Thailand and up to the territorial waters of Vietnam, before heading back to the Philippines.

The bow of the Raya Kolambu

In April 2017, two more balanghai replicas, namely the Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu were assembled, without any blueprints, in Maimbung, Sulu, by 7 members of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya), from Tawi-Tawi, led by master boat builder Nur Usman.  On May 10, 2017, both began sailing, from Sulu, in a mission to relive the 600 years of diplomatic connection between Sulu and ancient China.  They navigated without the use of modern instruments, and only through the skills and traditional methods of the Filipino Sama people.

Raya Siyagu (formerly the Sultan sin Sulu)

On April 28, 2018, the 33-man Philippine Balangay Expedition (headed by Valdez), on board the Sama Tawi-Tawi (the lead boat skippered by John Manginsay), Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu, sailed from the Manila Yacht Club and finally reached China, arriving in Xiamen at 3 PM, May 2.  The first two boats had small engines, allowing it to move at 30 knots, while the third was propelled by sail only, with a maximum speed of 10 knots.  They returned to Manila on May 22, after a 25-day journey.

Damage to the Raya Siyagu

In 2019, the Lahi ng Maharlika (now renamed Raya Kolambu), manned by 10 personnel, and Sultan sin Sulu (now renamed Raya Siyagu), run by 8 personnel, set sail, from San Vicente, Palawan to Butuan, in a 6-day journey crossing the Sulu Sea, making stops in Palawan (Linapacan, Cuyo), Antique (Anini-y), Negros Occidental (Sipalay), Negros Oriental (Dumaguete City), Camiguin and, finally, to Butuan Bay.  From Butuan, the balanghais entered the Mactan-Cebu waters on the morning of December 14, arriving in Lapu-Lapu City to commemorate the quincentennial (500th) anniversary of the Battle of Mactan on April 27, 2021.

A small-scale model of a balanghai

Today, the 15 m. long Diwata ng Lahi is on permanent public display at the back of the National Museum of Fine Arts while the Masawa Hong Butuan is on a special pavilion in Butuan City.

Balangay Boat Building Site: Butuan Global Forum, Inc., Luna Compound, 861 R. Calo St., Brgy. Bading, Butuan City, Agusan del Norte. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City. From the city center, take a habal-habal (motorcycle) ride to the site. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From Delta Discovery Park, it was a 9.3-km. (15-min.) drive to Bood Promontory and Eco-Park (or First Easter Mass Eco Park).  The highest elevation nearest to the seaside village of present-day Masao, it is located at a bend in the Masao River on a hill (called bood in Butuanon) overlooking the city.

Check out “Delta Discovery Park”

Magellan’s Cross

Grotto of the Virgin Mary

The park has a historical marker commemorating the contested first Catholic mass in Mindanao held on April 8, 1521 plus a memorial cross and a tableau with statues of Ferdinand Magellan, Rajah Kolambu (King of Butuan) and Rajah Siyagu (King of Mazaua), among others.

Tableau with statues of Ferdinand Magellan, Rajah Kolambu (King of Butuan) and Rajah Siyagu (King of Mazaua), among others

Nearby is a one-storey building housing an open-air function area plus oversized replicas of the Golden Tara (a 2-kg. (4.4-lb.), 21-karat gold statuette found, in 1917, at the banks of the Wawa River near Esperanza), and the Butuan Ivory Seal (an ivory stamp, seal stamp or a privy seal, dated 9th – 12th century, found in Brgy. Libertad).

Function Hall

Open-air function area

The park, situated in a non-protected 72-hectare agroforestry land, is also home to a small grotto of the Virgin Mary, walking trails and picnic spots. About 75% of the area is dominated by mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), yakal, Philippine teak (locally called hadlayati in Butuanon), Antipolo, narra and molave trees.

Replica of Golden Tara

Replica of Butuan Ivory Seal

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park: Brgy. Pinamanculan, Butuan City. 8600 Agusan del Norte.  Tel: (085) 300-0270. Open 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission: Php50/pax. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  A 30-min. tricycle ride from Masao Beach, to get to the park you have to cross a hanging bridge. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Delta Discovery Park (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Delta Discovery Park

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

On our second day in Butuan City, Ms. Debra Rutz Tanginan (Media Marketing Officer of Almont Inland Resort) brought Jandy and I to the 15-hectare (36.8 acre) Delta Discovery Park, a 7.6-km. (15-min.) drive from the resort.

Welcome Pavilion

Opened in May 2011, this captivating eco-tourism destination, offering a rich blend of adventure and nature, is home to what is touted as the longest zipline in the country (and in Asia) at 1.3 kms. long and, for adrenaline junkies like us, this was an opportunity we just shouldn’t miss out on.

Two A-frame cottages with a view deck in between

Upon arrival, we registered and paid for the zipline ride (Php500/pax) at the reception area of the park’s Welcome Pavilion.  That done, we walked all the way to the base of a concrete stairway that winds up a hill.

A-Frame Cottage

Before reaching the stairway, we passed a couple of A-frame, airconditioned cottages, along a ridge, where guests can stay overnight (check out video here).

Stairway going up to the waiting shed

Jandy and Debra at the waiting shed

Between the two cottages was a concrete view deck with a spectacular view of the valley below. We then went up the stairs (check out video here) to a wood and nipa waiting shed where we rested for a while.  Across the shed was a steel zipline landing platform.

The 1.3-km. (top) and 400-m. (below) zipline platforms.

The 4 x 4 Jeep we rode going up the hill

After a few minutes, a beat up, canvas soft top 4 x 4 Jeep arrived to bring us to the top of the hill and the zipline staging area.  The 5-min. long Jeep ride was part of the adventure and a thrill in itself as we were driven, on off-road tracks, over rocks and potholes.

All aboard…..

Debra, our driver and Debra on board our Jeep

Midway through the trip, we passed a building, this time a dorm where groups can also stay overnight. Like the zipline, the Jeep ride was not for the faint-hearted but, for us, it was fun as we literally jump on our seats with each pothole (check out video here).

The 1.3-km. zipline platform

Jandy, the author and Debra

All suited up….

The piece de resistance, of course, was the zipline ride.  Upon reaching the top of the hill, we disembarked from our Jeep and climbed the steel stairs up to the concrete and steel platform.  I decided to try the zipline first, followed by Jandy and, lastly, Debra.

The author all suited up and ready to go Superman style …..

Jandy’s next….

After donning my helmet, I was strapped into the horizontal, Superman zipline harness.  Once strapped, suspended and ready and facing forward, I was shoved down the line and on my way to the ultimate exhilarating “flying experience” as I “flew,” head first, with the wind blowing into my face, down the zipline (check out video here)

For nearly two minutes, I glided, at high speed (probably in excess of 60 kms./hour), 120 m. above the ground, over the green canopy of a scenic valley, then zip through the middle of a narrow gulley (giving me the feeling that I might scratch the sides), before emerging into another green valley as I approached the end of the line.  Truly an adrenaline rush of speed and the mesmerizing beauty of the green landscape and the winding Masao River….

The first valley I crossed…..

Jandy and Debra followed one after the other, all feeling the same rush as I did.  After our thrilling zipline, we descended down stairs and walked backed to the Welcome Pavilion.

The narrow gulley….

The park also has another shorter, more relaxing 400-m. long zipline (Php350/pax) that goes over a small canyon.  These 2 ziplines gives it the capacity to entertain up to 250 riders per day. They also have a swimming pool fed by a small waterfall, a butterfly sanctuary and eco-trails.

Approaching the end of the line…..

Delta Discovery Park: Purok 7 Ugabang, Brgy. Bonbon, Butuan City, 3600 Agusan del Norte.  Tel: (085) 345-8891.  Mobile numbers: (0975) 717-4505 and (0912) 444-2946.  Open daily, 9 AM – 5 PM.  Other rates: Entrance viewing (Php35/pax), Swimming Pool (Php50/pax), Cottages (Php350, Php400 and Php500), Table (Php200).  A-Frame House Overnight Rate (Php2,500, maximum of 5 pax, 2 PM to 10 AM).  Short Time Rate (Php500 for first 3 hours, maximum of 5 pax). 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City. From the city center, ride a jeepney and drop off at the turn-off to Brgy. Bonbon.  From there, take a habal-habal (motorcycle) ride to the park. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Banza Church Ruins (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Banza Church Ruins.  On the left is the mighty Agusan River, the third longest in the country

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From the Butuan Regional Museum, a 6.6km. (15-min.) drive brought us to the Banza Church Ruins, the oldest stone church ruins in Mindanao.  Getting there was very difficult, for first time visitors like us, as there are hardly any signs to point us in the right direction.

Check out “Butuan Regional Museum”

The balete tree enclosing the ruins of the church bell tower

This church, built by Augustinian Recollect friars beside the Agusan River (the third longest river in the country and the widest and most navigable in Mindanao) in 1625, was reputedly one of the most beautiful stone churches in the region.

The author and son Jandy beside the balete tree

However, in 1753, Moro pirates burned it down. Although the old church was rebuilt, it succumbed to decay and disuse when, in 1865, the town center was ordered transferred, by Surigao Province Gov. Manuel Boscasa, from Maug (Banza) to Baug (Magallanes).

Opening in the balete tree where you can see the interior wall of the bell tower

What is left of its former beauty is a bell tower engulfed inside a giant banyan (Ficus benjamina, locally called balete) tree.  From a small opening on the side of the tree, you can take a peek at the ruins and see its coralstone wall.

The steeple-like kiosk with pyramidal roof and balustrade

The ceiling of the kiosk

The steeple-like kiosk, with its pyramidal roof and balustrade, besides it houses a marble marker (its upper right hand corner chipped off) narrating the history of the place.  The place is a great spot to view the mighty 349 km. long Agusan River and to watch the sunset.

The slightly damaged marble historical plaque

Banza Church Ruins: Lilo, Brgy. Banza, 8600 Butuan City.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  Located 6.8 kms. (a 15-20 min. drive) from the city center, from the main highway, travel 2.5 kms. then take the track on the left. After 500 m., veer left again.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Balanghai Shrine Museum (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Balanghai Shrine Museum

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After arrival and lunch at Almont Inland Resort, Jandy and I, accompanied by Mr. Carl Ballesteros and Ms. Debra Rutz Tanginan, Sales and Marketing Manager and Media Marketing Officer, respectively, of the resort, boarded a Starex van to begin our tour of Butuan City. From the resort, it was a 4.9 km. (15-min.) drive to the Balanghai Shrine Museum.

Located between the city and the airport, this small but innovative, one-storey open-air museum, a field museum of the National Museum of the Philippines, celebrates the rich maritime heritage of the Philippines.  Upon arrival, we were toured around the quaint little museum by the very able and knowledgeable Ms. Gloradel T. Tamayo.

Ms. Gloradel T. Tamayo

The museum displays, in a specially made glass case, is Butuan Boat No. 1, the more than 1,700-year old balanghai (or balangay), the oldest of nine boats discovered in September 6, 1976 by pothunters in search of Chinese ceramics at Brgy. Ambangan.  It originally measured around 10.2 m. (33 ft.) in length and has been dated to 777-988 CE. The timber used in its construction are identified as toog (Petersianthus quadrialatus),  narig (Vatica sp.), and lawaan (Shorea sp.).  Three of these water-logged timber boats have been excavated while the others are still in situ.

The 1,700 year old balangahai, the oldest of the nine discovered

Another view of the balanghai

On March 9, 1987, the balanghais were declared a National Cultural Treasure by virtue of Presidential Proclamation No. 86, series of 1986, signed by the late Pres. Corazon C. Aquino.   The establishment of the shrine was made possible by the donation of land by Felix A. Luna, a resident of the area, in 1979.

Photo of 1976 excavation

Photo of the balanghai found on site

These large sea-going wooden plank-built (Heretiara litorales, locally called dongon) and edge-pegged outrigger boats are 15 m. long and 3 m. wide across the beam.  Carbon-14 dating indicates it belongs to the 4th and 13th to 14th century AD. The oldest was dated to 320 AD by Tokyo’s Gakushuin Uniiversity.

The sugar palm fibers found on site

Sugar palm fibers, locally called cabo negro, hibyok or hidyop (Arenga piñata), were used to tie the boat planks together. Two others were dated to 990 and 1250 AD. These predate the relics of Viking ships in European museums and they represent the oldest fleet of boats excavated in one place.

Wooden coffins

Wooden coffins

Also on display are 3 m. long wooden coffins and deformed skulls (showing clear signs of cranial deformation, a cultural practice, at that time, either to signify group affiliation, social status or for aesthetic purpose) dating to the 14th and 15th centuries. The coffins were found 16 m. east of the boat, though proximate to the boat, the coffin burials have no chronological reference to the 12th and 13th century middle layer, being situated on the high ground beyond the eastern limits of the midden.

Deformed skulls

Infant skull

Displayed on the walls are actual photos of the 1976 to 1986 excavation as well as the rope used to tie the boat planks together.  At the back of the museum is the actual excavation site, a single trench, which is part of the Agusan River Delta System.  Another excavation site, not open to visitors, is located at the back of the Toyota Showroom. 

The excavation site today

  

Balangay Shrine Museum: 6th St., Sitio Ambangan, Brgy. Libertad, Butuan City, 8600 Agusan del Norte.  Mobile number (0919) 077-9854. E-mail: butuan@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Opened Tuesdays to Sundays (closed on Mondays), 9 AM to 5 PM.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  The museum is 5 kms. east of the city. From Gaisano Mall/Butuan City Integrated Transportation Terminal, take a tricycle (locally called a trisikad) to the museum.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint (Cappadocia, Turkey)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint

Prior to returning to our hotel, we made a short stopover at the Pigeon Valley (Güverçinlik Vadisi) Viewpoint. The valley, running between Uçhisar and neighboring Göreme (a walk of around two hours), has many pigeon-houses which were carved, over the course of the years, into the soft tuff rock on the sides of the fairy chimneys.

Pigeon houses carved on the side of the mountain

Inside were many niches where pigeons could roost. Nutrient-rich pigeon guano was widely used as a natural fertilizer into the 1970s. Pigeon droppings were also used to enhance the colors of the frescoes in the cave churches.

View of Uchisar Castle (upper left hand corner) and the villages below it

You can also see the otherworldly scenery of Uchisar Castle (Uçhisar Kalesi) perched on top of a rocky pinnacle.  One of the most prominent landmarks in Cappadocia, this ancient fortress, regarded as the tallest fairy chimney in the area.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

This 60 m. ( 200 ft.) high turret of golden volcanic rock was sculpted by the elements and, later, by humans, the earliest of whom are believed to be the Hittites from the second millennium BC., followed by Byzantine settlers in the 4th century AD.  It boasts stunning, unparalleled and panoramic view of Uchisar village and nearby hamlets.

The viewpoint is home to cafes selling tea, coffee and light snacks as well as a few shops selling overpriced souvenirs and local craft.  Across the street, you can take pictures or ride, for a fee, with camels.  Near the edge is a touristy love picture site for photo ops.

Cappadocia Natural Viagra Market

You can also feed the pigeons and sparrows with grain that can be bought at stores (1TL per cup). Also nearby is a hiking trail and the Cappadocia Natural Viagra Market, a store selling natural and organic Viagra, herbs, spices and different kinds of nuts (almonds, etc.) and dried apricots.

Camels for hire

Within the area is an evil eye tree dripping with Turkish nazar boncugu (which literally means “evil eye bead”) amulets which look like small shiny fruit or glinting glass eyes.  These lovely, inky blue talismans have deep cultural symbolism in Turkey and Greece.

Evil Eye Tree

Symbolizing the jealous and envious looks of others, these eye-shaped amulets are fixed to anything perceived to attract greed, envy or ill will, to ward off evil.  People who buy these (1TL each) can hang it up the tree in the direction opposite to that of the person.

Nazar boncugu

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint: Aşağı, Adnan Menderes Cd., 50240 Uçhisar/Nevşehir Merkez/Nevşehir, Türkiye.

A Hot-Air Balloon Ride in Cappadocia (Turkey)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Hot-air balloon beside a stone spire

The thrilling Hot-Air Balloon Ride of Cappadocia, one of the best ways to discover and explore this rugged, historical region in east-Central Anatolia in the Asian part of Turkey, is a must-do if you are in the area. Here, we were to see scenic Cappadocia like you’ve never seen it before, through this once-in-a-lifetime, 1.5 hour-long flight on board a colorful hot air balloon. To do this, we had to stay at least a night in Cappadocia (the balloon ride starts very early in the morning, before sunrise), staying at the Solem Cave Suites (in the province of Nevsehir), on top of a hill, with its stunning views of cave houses.  From Istanbul, it was a one hour and 20 min. flight, via Turkish Airlines, to Kayseri Erkilet Airport, our gateway to Cappadocia.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Solem Cave Suites” and “Kayseri Erkilet Airport”

Inflating the hot air balloon……

This has been planted firmly at the top of my bucket list ever since I saw photos of the magical Cappadocian landscape topped with a sky filled with colorful hot air balloons. The most popular location in the world for hot air ballooning, last year, over half of the world’s balloon trips took place in the Cappadocia region, with almost half a million people taking to the skies.

Hot air balloons now ready to take flight…..

Cappadocia has an amazing and spectacular landscape of cave-like dwellings, the animal rock formations of Devrent Valley, fairy chimneys, towns such as Mustafapasa, and the rock-hewn, domed churches dating back to the Byzantine post-Iconoclastic Period, as far back as 4th century, all sculpted by erosion over thousands of years. Today, what is left are these amazing troglodyte villages, underground cities that once contained human habitat and beautiful valleys that go for as far as the eye can see.

Balloons about to take off

Cappadocia is also one of the few places in the world you can soar in a balloon almost all year round, with trips running during boiling hot summers and snowy winters (when the whole area is covered in a thick layer of snow), with the landscape looking incredible in both. For our hot-air balloon flight, we chose Atmosfer Balloon. Based in Avanos town and under Dorak Holding, it has been around since 2010 and is Cappadocia’s fourth biggest hot air balloon company.

Balloons now taking to the air….

In the flight zone of Cappadocia, Atmosfer Balloons holds 10 slot rights (7 slots in the first flight period and 3 slots in the second).  It currently has a fleet of 18 hot-air balloons (max. flying capacity: 203 passengers) and actively employs 12 commercial pilots , 13 assistant pilots and 50 ground staff.

The author and Grace

Early in the morning (3:30 AM), a driver from Atmosfer Balloons picked us up from our hotel, along with other guests from the hotel and the nearby Dere Suites Cappadocia Hotel, and transferred us, via a Mercedes Benz van, to the balloon site.

Sunrise over Cappadocia

(photo: Sean Sta. Maria)

During our trip, we stopped by the roadside and were given a light breakfast of pastries and packed drinks while waiting for the decision, by the Directorate General of Civil Aviation (DGCA), on whether it would be safe to fly. When the green flag was given, we set off to the balloon take-off zone, chosen by our pilot, that is appropriate for the latest local weather and wind direction. Since the balloons move in the direction of the wind, they are different from each other every day.

Soaring over the moon-like landscape

At the take-off zone, we watched the stages of balloon preparation and inflation. Our unique Parliament blue and yellow-colored hot air balloon, produced by Spanish Ultra Magic company, one of the leading hot air balloon manufacturers in the world, consisted of a burner system, a basket and an envelope.

Ripstop nylon is the most common material for the envelope, but polyester and other fabrics are also used. The fabric around the lower opening (called the mouth) of the balloon are usually made from a fire resistant material like Nomex, similar to the suits that firefighters wear.

The 3,864 m. high Mount Erciyes, an inactive volcano, is the highest mountain and most voluminous volcano of Central Anatolia

To board the balloon, they lay the woven wicker basket (wicker is used because it is lightweight, flexible and easily repaired). on the side, with deflated balloons lying on their sides, and you crawl in. It was quite a sight to see, up close, the busy balloon staff setting them up, checking them for safety and starting to inflate the balloon (it takes 15 mins.).

Our balloon pilot

Balloons operate through the basic principles of gravity and heat transfer.  As the air inside the balloon is heated, it rises and, as the air inside the balloon cools, it descends.  To make the balloon fly, an inflator fan fills it with air which is then heated by propane in stainless steel fuel tanks.  hot air balloons carry 60 to 110 gallons (120 to 200kg) of propane and use roughly 75% of the fuel during a single flight.

Horseback riders

Soon after, it was time to hop into the now upright basket which is split into 5 sections – 4 squares on each side, which each fit 4 people, and a long section, in the center, for our Atmosfer Balloons pilot Yassir and his assistant.  Upon boarding our balloon, general information on flight safety and flight is given by Yassir and our flight over Cappadocia began. During flight, the balloons range from 5 m. to 800 m. in altitude.  Winds determined our balloon’s direction and Yassir steered our balloon, to a limited extent, by adjusting the balloon’s altitude to make use of different wind speeds and directions.

Cave houses

We drifted peacefully, before sunrise, for an extraordinary, amazing and unbelievably breathtaking, 360-degree views of Cappadocia, seeing all its landmarks from above. During our flight, the day was like a fiesta, with the sky filled with around 100 balloons with different colors and designs. We didn’t have to worry though (actually, the view of the other balloons in the sky made it a completely magical experience) as Cappadocia happens to be one of the most highly regulated places, with an excellent safety record.

The fairy chimneys of Cappadocia

Our pilot Yassir was very experienced, navigating the incredibly uneven landscape, flying safely so close to other balloons, in an aircraft which only has the ability to go up and down.  To fly here, he must train for around 5 times as long as in other parts of the world.  While piloting our balloon, he also explained all the sceneries that we saw during the flight.

Our hot air balloon being repacked …..

The views, over the next hour or so, were breathtaking and the landscape constantly changing color, as the minutes ticked by, as we drifted through the different areas. We passed the famous Fairy Chimneys (natural yet surreal-looking spires, up to 40 m. tall, that were carved out of soft volcanic rock by the elements over millions of years), Monk’s Valley (Pasabag Valley), the beautiful Devrent Valley (renowned for its surreal and otherworldly landscape which has earned the valley the nickname “Lunar Landscape” or “Moonscape”), pigeon houses, plenty of cave houses and vineyards.

Check out “Fairy Chimneys of Monk’s Valley “ and “Devrent Valley”

From the amazing maximum altitude of about 800 m., the panoramic views of surreal, moon-like landscape of the region was completely mind-blowing while, from the lowest points, we could almost pick fruit from the trees. The motion back to the ground was effortless and we landed precisely near the balloon’s trailer.  It took about 15 mins. to deflate the balloon and pack the balloon after flight.

The champagne toasting ceremony

Once back on dry land, we were rewarded with a champagne toasting ceremony (they are also trained in such things as champagne service and flower arrangements) and a personalized flight certificate.  Overall, it was a very impressive, professional and truly great, unparalleled and unforgettable experience.

Jandy and Grace back on dry land

Atmosfer Balloons: Cumhuriyet, Göreme Yolu No:1, 50500 Avanos/Nevşehir, Turkey. Tel: +90 384 219 26 43. E-mail: fly@atmosferballoons.com. Website: www.atmosferballoons.com.

Devrent Valley (Cappadocia, Turkey)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Devrent Valley

After our exploration of the Fairy Chimneys of Pasabag, we returned to our van and made two stopovers, at viewpoints, before proceeding to our hotel.  The first was at the beautiful Devrent Valley in Cappadocia (locally known as Imaginary Valley).

Check out “Fairy Chimneys of Pasabag”

Nestled in the heart of Cappadocia, it is renowned for its surreal and otherworldly landscape (which has earned Devrent Valley the nickname “Lunar Landscape” or “Moonscape”) that sparks the imagination and transports you to a realm of wonder.  This enchanting valley, full of unique rock formations that are some of the best formed and most thickly clustered in Cappadocia, offers a unique experience like no other.

The Camel

Most of the striking and stunning pink-hued or rosy rock cones are topped by flattish, darker stones of harder rock that sheltered the cones from the rain until all the surrounding rock was eaten away, over thousands of years by wind and water, in a process known to geologists as differential erosion, creating intriguing pillar-like shapes.

The Elephant

The beauty of this captivating spot in Cappadocia is that has very easy driving access and isn’t as crowded as the open-air museums and iconic cave dwelling locations. Devrent Valley was never inhabited by humans, making it a unique geological wonder.

The Kissing Ducks

There are no rock-cut churches or castles to explore. It’s essential to keep in mind that the valley can get crowded, especially during peak tourist seasons. To avoid crowds, consider visiting early in the morning, late in the afternoon, or during lunchtime.

The Hand

As we ventured into this mesmerizing realm, we witnessed a natural masterpiece sculpted by centuries of wind and water erosion. At the entrance of the valley, one of the first sights that greet us was an enormous rock which looks like a camel. A lot more imagination is needed to spot the other whimsical animal-shaped (dolphin, seals, lions, bears, tigers, kissing birds, alligator, snake, etc.) rock formations. Other weird rock shapes resemble a Napoleon’s hat and a praying Virgin Mary. Devrent Valley left an indelible mark on my Cappadocia adventure, leaving me awe-inspired.

The Virgin Mary

Devrent Valley: Goreme El Sanatlari Carsisi No: 24 50180, Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey. Tel: +90 384 271 2166. Fax: +90 384 271 2337. Email: info@newgoreme.com.  The entrance to the valley is free of charge.

How to Get There: Devrent Valley is located 11.3  kms. (a 20-min. drive) from Goreme, aproximately 1 km. from Pasabag Valley, 6.6 kms. from Avanos, and 15.6 kms. from Uchisar. If you’re staying in Urgup, it’s just a short 5.7-kilometer drive to reach this enchanting destination.

The easiest way to get there is by bus or rental car directly from either Göreme or Ürgüp. Buses run regularly throughout the day, every hour departure and take around 10 – 15 minutes. The ‘Blue Route’ on the hop-on-hop-off bus also includes Devrent Valley. Devrent Valley lies on the direct (east) road between Avanos and Ürgüp. There’s no public transport along this route but if it’s not too hot and you don’t mind a roadside walk, it’s easy enough to get here on foot from Zelve. From the Zelve site entrance, go about 200m back down the access road to where the road forks and take the right-hand road marked for Ürgüp. After about 2km you’ll come to the village of Aktepe (Yeni Zelve). Bear right and follow the Ürgüp road uphill for another 2km.To cut down on walking time, the Ürgüp–Avanos dolmuş can drop you off at Aktepe. Devrent Valley is surrounded by marked hiking trails that connect it with other valleys in the region.

Sondheim Theater (London, England, U.K.)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Sondheim Theatre

The highlight of our third day in London was to see the brilliant staging of one of the world’s most popular musicals – Cameron Mackintosh’s acclaimed fully-staged new production of Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel Schonberg’s Les Misérables, the West End‘s longest-running musical, at the Sondheim Theatre.  This revolutionary Tony Award and Laurence Olivier Award-winning West End musical, opened last September 25, 2021, will run until March 29, 2025.

Check out “Musical Review: Les Miserables”

The theatre’s marquee

The 1,222-pax Sondheim Theatre (formerly the Queen’s Theatre) was so beautiful, it was an attraction in its own right.  Prior to the show, we waited at the luxurious bar which looked like a VIP Lounge. The theatre offers three seating areas: Stalls, Dress Circle and Grand Circle.

L-R: Selena, Manny, Sean, Paula, Grace, the author and Jandy

This West End theatre  opened as the Queen’s Theatre on October 8, 1907, as a twin to the neighboring Hicks Theatre (now the Gielgud Theatre), on the adjoining corner of Shaftesbury Avenue, which had opened ten months earlier. Both theatres were designed by W. G. R. Sprague.

The original plan was to name the venue the Central Theatre. However, after a lengthy debate, it was named the Queen’s Theatre and a portrait of Queen Alexandra was hung in the foyer. The first production at the Queen’s Theatre was a comedy by Madeleine Lucette Ryley called The Sugar Bowl. Although it was poorly received and ran for only 36 performances, the theatre received glowing reviews.

Staircase

In 1913, Tango Teas became a popular pastime and the stalls seats were replaced with tables and chairs where, for the sum of 2/6, people took tea while watching professional tango dancers and dress parades on stage. In 1920, Elsie Janis altered the theatre so that the stalls were “surrounded by a parterre and backed by a luxurious lounge.” A note in the program for It’s All Wrong, described as a “musical complaint,”” read “Miss Janis regrets that her name appears so often in the program, but she does not wish to shirk any of the responsibilities.”

In September 24, 1940, a German bomb landed directly on the theatre, destroying the facade and lobby areas. The production at the time was Daphne du Maurier’s highly successful Rebecca starring Celia Johnson, Owen Nares and Margaret Rutherford.

The theatre stage

The theatre remained closed until, almost 20 years later, a £250,000 restoration was completed by Architects Westwood Sons & Partners. With Sir Hugh Casson acting as consultant on the décor, the auditorium retained its Edwardian decor, while the lobbies and exterior were rebuilt in a modern style. On July 8, 1959, the reconstructed theatre opened with Ages of Man, John Gielgud’s solo recital  in Shakespeare speeches and sonnets. In June 1972, the theatre was Grade II listed by English Heritage.

From April 2004 to July 2019, the theatre played host to Cameron Mackintosh‘s production of Les Misérables, the West End‘s longest-running musical which, after 18 years, transferred at the nearby Palace Theatre. The musical celebrated its 20th anniversary at the venue on October 8, 2005, and overtook Cats as the West End‘s longest-running musical of all time a year later on October 8, 2006. In 2010, Delfont Mackintosh refurbished Queen’s Theatre for the 25th Anniversary of Les Misérables and, on October 8, 2015, the show celebrated the 30th anniversary of its original opening at the Barbican Centre in 1985.  On September 4, 2019, the show celebrated its 14,000th performance.

In 2019, Cameron Mackintosh announced that the original production of Les Misérables would close on July 13, 2019 while the theatre underwent an extensive £13.8 million, lightning fast 20-week refurbishment and restoration. The auditorium’s lovely Edwardian splendor was recreated, from the 1950s reconstruction, with the addition of a curved rail and new boxes at dress circle level, named after Maggie Smith and Judi Dench. Overhangs and ceilings on each tier were also redecorated with a recurring W. G. R. Sprague-inspired cherub design in carved plaster and “fifteen colors and seven shades of gold.” In total, approximately 70 to 80% of the plastering in the building was redone and a new, custom-made chandelier was hung.

Dress Circle and Grand Circle seating areas

To be closer to the audience, the stage was lowered 30 cm. and the famous and innovative revolving stage, used in Les Misérables to enable smooth and seamless changes between scenes, was also notably removed.  In a void space, next door to the theatre, 32 additional toilets were installed. Additional space on every floor, from the basement up, was also reclaimed from a former electricity substation leased to the electric board in 1907. This allowed for more space on stage as well as additional dressing rooms on several floors, now fitted with showers. Finally, to improve audience comfort and sight-lines, new seating was installed.

Ceiling and chandelier

On December 18, 2019, the Queen’s Theatre was renamed as the Sondheim Theatre in honor of composer and lyricist Stephen Sondheim who was also celebrating his 90th birthday.  On January 16, 2020, following completion, the Sondheim Theatre re-opened for its first performance of Les Misérables, featuring sets inspired by original paintings by Victor Hugo, in the 2009 touring staging.

Past and present productions

  • Hamlet (1930) – this Old Vic production transferred to Queen’s and John Gielgud gave his first Shaftesbury Avenue performances of the role he made almost his own with Donald Wolfit as a strong Claudius.
  • Moonlight in Silver (1934) – an ‘ultra-modern problem play’ by Clemence Dane, starred Gertrude Lawrence and Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. This glamorous couple attracted much media attention especially as they were having an affair both on and off stage.
  • Short Story (1935) – Robert Morley’s first play, it combined a host of talent in Marie Tempest, Sybil Thorndike, Margaret Rutherford and Rex Harrison.
  • 1937 – The Gielgud season of Richard II, The School for Scandal, Three Sistersand The Merchant of Venice brought glittering casts and outstanding performances to the theatre. Those who appeared included Leon Quartermaine, Michael Redgrave, Glen Byam Shaw, Anthony Quayle, Alec Guinness, Peggy Ashcroft and George Devine.
  • Stop the World I Want to Get Off (1961) – Anthony Newley and Leslie Bricusse’s thought-provoking musical about the value of personal versus career choices, ran for 478 performances before transferring to Broadway.
  • A Suite in Three Keys (1966) – Noël Coward made his final West End appearance.
  • In August and September 1966 – Laurence Olivier’s National Theatre presented their first West End season, including famous productions of The Royal Hunt of the Sun and Othello.
  • In 1972, Marlene Dietrich appeared for a short season in cabaret. She had first sung in cabaret at the Queen’s in 1964, and her performance can be heard on a live recording.
  • Private Lives (1972) – Maggie Smith and Robert Stephens appeared in this acclaimed production.
  • Saturday, Sunday, Monday (1974) – by Eduardo de Filippo, Franco Zeffirelli directed Joan Plowright in a notable production.
  • Another Country (1982) – Julian Mitchell’s story about Guy Burgess’s schooldays, starred Rupert Everett and launched Kenneth Branagh’s career. Everett was subsequently replaced by Daniel Day Lewis and Colin Firth.
  • Wonderful Town (1986) – a major revival of Leonard Bernstein’s musical about New York won both Laurence Olivier Award and Variety Club Awards.
  • Three Sisters (1990) – the first time two sisters (Vanessa and Lynn Redgrave) had acted on stage together. Their niece Jemma also appeared here.
  • Passion (1996) – Stephen Sondheim‘s love triangle  ran for 232 performances and won Maria Friedman an Olivier Award for her role as Fosca.
  • The Lady in the Van (1999) – Maggie Smith “acted with every muscle” as the smelly, eccentric  Miss Shepherd who lived in playwright Alan Bennett’s drive for many years.
  • The Hobbit (November 28, 2001 –February 9, 2002) by Glyn Robbins from  R. R. Tolkien‘s book
  • Mysteries (February 26, 2002 –May 18, 2002) adaptation by Speir Opera
  • Umoja: The Spirit of Togetherness (June 18, 2002 –August 31, 2002) by Todd Twala, Thenbi Nyandeni and Ian von Memerty
  • Contact (October 23, 2002 –May 10, 2003) by Susan Stroman and John Weildman
  • The Rocky Horror Show(June 23, 2003 –July 5, 2003) by Richard O’Brien, starring Jonathan Wilkes and John Stalker
  • Cyberjam (September 23, 2003 –January 3, 2004)
  • The RSC’s The Taming of the Shrew (January 15, 2004 –March 6, 2004) by William Shakespeare
  • The RSC’s The Tamer Tamed (January 22, 2004 –March 6, 2004) by John Fletcher
  • Les Misérables (April 12, 2004 —July 13, 2019, December 18, 2019 –) by Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel Schönberg
  • Les Misérables – The Staged Concert (December 5, 2020 – February 28, 2021)

Sondheim Theatre:  51 Shaftesbury Avenue  corner Wardour Street, City of Westminster, London W1D 6BA, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 344 482 5151.  Coordinates: 51.511944°N 0.132778°W.

How to Get There: The nearest train station is Charing Cross while the nearest tube station is Piccadilly Circus (take Shaftesbury Avenue along where the famous illuminated signs are. The theatre will be on your left about 100 m. along, just after the Gielgud Theatre).

The nearest bus stops are serviced by numbers 12, 14, 19, 38 (Shaftesbury Avenue) and 6, 13, 15, 23, 88, 94, 139, 159, 453 (Regent Street). Night bus numbers: (Shaftesbury Avenue) 14, N19, N38; (Regent Street) 6, 12, 23, 88, 94, 139, 159, 453, N3, N13, N15, N109, N18, N136.