Palazzo Vecchio – Apartments of Leo X (Florence, Italy)

Ceiling fresco at the Room of Cosimo il Vecchio

The Apartments of Leo X, situated in an extension of the building erected in the mid-16th century on the orders of Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici, was designed and built by Giovanni Battista del Tasso, who partly demolished and partly incorporated the 13th and 14th century offices of the Captain and Executor of the Ordinances of Justice in his work.

Room of Cosimo il Vecchio

Upon the death of Tasso in 1555, his place was taken over by Giorgio Vasari. In accordance with a single, consistent iconographic program devised by the scholar Cosimo Bartoli, Vasari  worked simultaneously both on these rooms and on decorating the apartments on the floor above.

Room of Lorenzo the Magnificent

The decoration on each one of the rooms in these apartments, dedicated to an illustrious member of the Medici family (Cosimo il Vecchio, Lorenzo the Magnificent, mercenary captain Giovanni dalle Bande Nere, Pope Clement VII, Cosimo I de Medici and Pope Leo X, after whom the apartments are named), depicts their most significant endeavors.

Triumphant Return of Cosimo il Vecchio (Giorio Vasari and collaborators, 1556-58)

In accordance with a specific program designed to compare the rise to power of the House of Medici (veritable “deities on earth” with the origins of the genealogy of the “deities in heaven”), each one of the rooms is matched in the Apartments of the Elements on the floor above by a room of the same size dedicated to a pagan deity.

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Stucco work, designed by Bartolomeo Ammannati, was implemented by Leonardo Ricciarelli, Giovanni di Tommaso Boscoli and Mariotto di Francesco. The paintings and frescoes were done by Giorgio Vasari and his assistants Marco Marchetti, Cristofano Gherardi and Giovanni Stradano.

Room of Lorenzo the Magnificent

Because they are normally set aside for use as the offices of the Mayor of Florence, some of the rooms in this area are only open to visitors on special occasions but, surprisingly, they were open during our visit, possibly because we visited after office hours.

Room of Cosimo il Vecchio

The Room of Cosimo il Vecchio houses paintings that depict some of the more salient moments and aspects of his success of Cosimo il Vecchio (1389-1464), founder of the main branch of the Medici family.

Lorenzo the Magnificent receiving tribute from the Italian and foreign ambassadors, with many precious and exotic gifts

He steered, de facto, the political and economic rise of the city of Florence and laying the groundwork for future Medici power, earning the sobriquet of Pater Patriae (“Father of the Nation”).

Lorenzo the Magnificent among Philosophers and Scholars (Giorio Vasari and collaborators, 1556-58)

Depictions include his triumphant return to Florence (barely a year after being forced into exile by his adversaries) or his role as patron and protector of artists and scholars who also commissioned several majors architectural projects.

Departure of Cosimo il Vecchio for exile (Giogio Vasari and collaborators, 1556-58). This was the sentence laid down in 1433 by his enemies, who accused him of plotting against the Republic.

The ceiling fresco depicts Cosimo and his entourage’s return from exile, greeted in triumph by the city fathers outside the San Gallo Gate (1434).

Room of Lorenzo the Magnificent

The Room of Lorenzo the Magnificent, has a ceiling fresco, done by Giorgio Vasari and Marco Marchetti, with the symbolic depiction of the ambassadors of the most powerful foreign states paying tribute to Lorenzo.

The gifts laid before him include the cardinal’s hat which the pope granted to his son Giovanni, the future Pope Leo X.

Lorenzo de ‘Medici (1449-1492), the son of Piero the Gouty and grandson of Cosimo il Vecchio, was called The Magnificent on account of his exceptional intellectual prowess with which he shaped the era. Patron of the Platonic Academy, author of poetry and prose in the vernacular tongue, sophisticated collector and protector of artists of the caliber of Michelangelo Buonarroti, he influenced the tastes of his age, fostering the development and spread of the Humanist movement of the Florentine Renaissance.

He continued the work begun by his predecessors, monopolizing and consolidating political and economic control over Florence, whilst retaining, at least formally, the institutions of the Florentine republic. Believing that a balance among Italy’s states would keep foreign interference at bay, he enhanced his reputation by promoting peace agreements and alliances.

Paneled ceiling at Room of Lorenzo the Magnificent

The Room of Leo X has a ceiling fresco that depicts Pope Leo X‘s allies retaking Milan (1521).

Room of Leo X

Giovanni de’ Medici (1475-1521), Lorenzo the Magnificent’s son, became cardinal at the age of only thirteen and took the name of Leo X when he was elected to the papacy in 1513.  He laid the groundwork for the future Medici duchy of Tuscany and his expansionist drive allowed the Medici to acquire new honors, such as the Duchy of Urbino.

Educated in the cultured and sophisticated circles of his Magnificent father, he imbued the papal court with pomp and splendor, pursuing his predecessor Julius II’s patronage policy to turn Rome into the leading cultural and artistic centre of the early decades of the 16th century.

Triumphant Entrance of Leo X in Florence (Giorgio Vasari)

Apartments of Leo X: Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Italy. Tel: +39 055 276 8325. Open daily, 9 AM – 7 PM (except Thursdays, 9 AM  – 2 PM). Admission: €6.00. Combined ticket with Cappella Brancacci: €8.00.

Palazzo Vecchio – Hall of the Five Hundred (Florence, Italy)

Hall of the Five Hundred

Located on the first floor of the building, adjacent to the oldest section built by Arnolfo di Cambio, the Hall of the Five Hundred (Salone dei Cinquecento) is part of the wing of the palace built in 1494 by Simone del Pollaiolo and Francesco Domenico.

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The author

It was commissioned by Fra Girolamo Savonarola (the spiritual leader of the Republic, who replaced the Medici) to build chamber as the seat of the 500-member Grand Council (Consiglio Maggiore), modeled after the Grand Council of Venice. According to the austerity pursued by Savonarola, the room was also very basic and almost devoid of decoration.

For a short period (1494 and 1498), Savonarola had ousted the Medici from power and had founded a new Florentine Republic, establishing a more democratic government for the city of Florence by creating the Council of Five Hundred (or Great Council). In this way, the decision-making power belonged to a greater number of citizens, making it more difficult for a single person to take control of the city. In 1498, Savonarola was arrested, hanged and burned at the stake in the Piazza della Signoria as a “heretic, schismatic, and for preaching new things.”

Paintings and sculptures on west side

Here are some interesting trivia regarding the impressive Hall of the Five Hundred:

  • In terms of artistic and historic value in Palazzo Vecchio, it is the largest and most important room.
  • At 54 m. long, 23 m. wide and 18 m. high, the hall is the largest room in Italy made for a civil power palace.
  • It plays a key role in Dan Brown’s 2013 thriller Inferno

Paintings and sculptures on the east side

In 1540, after the Medici returned to power, they chose Palazzo Vecchio as a residence, radically transforming it. Piero Soderini, who was appointed Gonfaloniere for life, decided to decorate the Salone dei Cinquecento.

Maximilian of Austria Attempts the Conquest of Leghorn (Giorgio Vasari and Giovanni Battista Naldini) – depicts the moment that Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian comes to the aid of the Pisans, but, alas, the Emperor’s attack on the Florentines failed, in part due to a terrible storm that shipwrecked the imperial fleet, forcing the imperial forces to withdraw.

The Conquest of Porto Ercole (Giorgio Vasari) – depicts the capture of Porto Ercole, Siena’s last holdout. Those who had been loyal to Siena fled to Porto Ercole after Siena had fallen on April 21, 1555. However, after a 24-day siege, the final bastion of Sienese independence fell.

So that Grand Duke Cosimo I de Medici could hold his court in this chamber, received ambassadors and give audience to the people, the grandeur of the hall had to be accentuated and the decorations had to exalt and glorify the Medici family hall. Giorgio Vasari enlarged the hall by raising the ceiling seven meters,

Defeat of the Pisans at the Torre di San Vicenzo in 1505

The ingeniously built trusses were a double set at different levels with a truss supporting the weight of the roof and another one supporting the beautifully decorated coffered ceiling underneath which covered the truss structure.  Aside from Vasari, other artists who participated in the decoration were Giovanni Stradano, Tommaso di Battista del Verrocchio, Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio, and many others.

The Storming of the Fortress of Stampace (Giorgio Vasari, Giovanni Battista Naldini, and Jacopo Zucchi)

The ceiling, consisting of 39 panels, was constructed and painted by a team of painters coordinated by Giorgio Vasari.  The iconographic subject, treated by Vincenzo Borghini, was originally sketched with an allegory of Florence occupying the center but Duke Cosimo actually wanted a glorious depiction of himself.

The Taking of Siena – depicts the capture of the fort near the Porta Camollia. The January 26, 1554 attack on Siena, by the ducal army, was led by Giangiacomo Medici (Marquis of Marignano)e). Here, they surprised the guards while they slept. The Florentines marked this event as the beginning of the war.

It now represents Great Episodes from the life of Cosimo I with some allegories of the districts of Florence and Tuscany in an act of submission to the Duke, episodes of the War of Pisa (1496–1509) and the War of Siena (1553–1555), as well as portraits of some of Giorgio Vasari’s collaborators. Towards the center is the apotheosis Scene of His Glorification as Grand Duke of Florence and Tuscany.

The Victory of Cosimo I at the Battle of Marciano in Val di Chiana – depicts the August 2, 1554 battle in Val di Chiana, which was decisive for the Florentines’ victory the next spring. Here, Florentine exiles, who had fled the Medici rule and sided with Siena, Frenchmen, and Grisons attacked the Florentine army, but the Florentines routed the Sienese troops.

Giorgio Vasari, along with his assistants, painted large and expansive frescoes depicting six scenes of battles and military victories that represent the military successes of Cosimo I and Florence over Pisa and Siena.  On the east side, you can find The Taking of Siena, The Conquest of Porto Ercole, and The Victory of Cosimo I at the Battle of Marciano in Val di Chiana.

Statue of Hercules and Cacus (Vincenzo de’ Rossi)

On the west side are The Defeat of the Pisans at the Tower of San Vincenzo, Maximilian of Austria Attempts the Conquest of Leghorn and Pisa Attacked by the Florentine Troops. The decorative complex would be completed by a series of sixteenth-century tapestries, which are hung only on special occasions.

Statue of Hercules and Diomedes (Vincenzo de Rossi)

However, during this transformation, two famous (but unfinished) large murals, celebrating the victories of the Republic, by the greatest Florentine artists of the time were lost – the Battle of Anghiari (a battle scene celebrating a famous Florentine victory, commissioned to Leonardo da Vinci in 1503), on one long wall, and the  Battle of Cascina (by Michelangelo) on the opposite wall.

For a certain period of time, though none of their work was ever completed, the two geniuses of the Renaissance would have an opportunity to work face-to-face. Leonardo hopelessly wasting the work by experimenting with an encaustic technique, which proved disastrous. On the other hand, Michelangelo stopped work when he left for Rome after being called by Pope Julius II. Both original works are lost, but copies and preparatory drawings still remain.

Statue of Hercules and Hippolyta (Vincenzo de’ Rossi)

The La Tribuna dell’Udienza (consultation gallery), the raised stage designed to accommodate the throne of the Duke, is illuminated by enormous windows on the north side of the hall.

La Tribuna dell’Udienza (consultation gallery)

It was built by Giuliano di Baccio d’Agnolo and Bartolommeo Bandinelli for Cosimo I to receive citizens and ambassadors.

Statue of Hercules and the Centaur Nessus (Vincenzo De Rossi)

Above it are frescoes depicting historical events. Among these are that of Boniface VIII receiving the ambassadors of foreign states and, seeing that all were Florentines, saying “You Florentines are the quintessence.”

Statue of Hercules with the Erymanthean Boar (Vincenzo De Rossi)

The architecture, inspired by a Roman triumphal arch to enhance the power of the sovereign, hosts a number of niches containing statues of members of the Medici family, sculpted by Bartolommeo Bandinelli, in the niches.

Statue of Pope Leo X in the act of blessing Cosimo de Medici

The two largest arches contain the statues of the two Medici popes – the statue of the Seated Leo X (Bandinelli was assisted here by his student Vincenzo de’Rossi) in the center and, on the right, a statue of Charles V, King of Spain, Crowned by Clement VII. Six statues, along the walls, represent the Labors of Hercules by Vincenzo de’ Rossi.

Statue of The Labours of Hercules

At the south of the hall, in the central niche, is The Genius of Victory (1533–1534), Michelangelo’s famous marble group that was originally intended for the tomb of Julius II. Placed in this hall by Giorgio Vasari, the statue was removed to the Bargello Museum in 1868 but, in 1921, was returned to the hall. The statues of other members of the Medici family (Cosimo I, Giovanni dalle Bande Nere, Alessandro, and Francesco I) are contained in the other four niches while, in the boxes above, are depicted the main enterprises conducted by them.

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The Genius of Victory (Michaelangelo)

Access to the Studiolo of Francesco I is along the side of the entrance wall. The Studiolo of Francesco I (a studiolo is a small study), a small side room, without windows, situated at the end of the hall, was also designed by Giorgio Vasari (1570–1575) in a Mannerist style. Paintings, stucco and sculptures fill the walls and the barrel vault and Baroque paintings hide secret cupboards.

Coffer ceiling

Most paintings, representing the four elements (water, fire, earth and air), are by the School of Vasari. The portrait of Cosimo I and his wife Eleonora of Toledo was made by Bronzino while the delicate bronze sculptures were made by Bartolomeo Ammanati and  Giambologna. The latter, dismantled within decades of its construction, were re-assembled in the 20th century.

Palazzo Vecchio: Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Italy. Tel: +39 055 276 8325. Open daily, 9 AM – 7 PM (except Thursdays, 9 AM  – 2 PM). Admission: €6.00. Combined ticket with Cappella Brancacci: €8.00.

Loggia dei Lanzi (Florence, Italy)

Loggia dei Lanzi

The Loggia dei Lanzi (also called the Loggia della Signoria or Loggia dei Priori), an open-air sculpture gallery on a corner of the Piazza della Signoria, adjoining the Uffizi Gallery, is sometimes erroneously referred to as Loggia dell’ Orcagna because it was once thought to be designed by that artist.  Open to the street, it consists of wide arches (which seem to have influenced Filippo Brunelleschi when he planned the famous loggia of the Ospedale degli Innocenti, the first Renaissance building) resting on clustered pilasters with Corinthian capitals.  Appealing so much to the Florentines, Michelangelo proposed that the wide arches be continued all around the Piazza della Signoria.

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The Loggia during daytime

It was built, between 1376 and 1382, by Benci di Cione and Simone di Francesco Talenti (also well known from his contributions to the churches Orsanmichele and San Carlo), possibly following a design by Jacopo di Sione, to house the assemblies of the people and hold public ceremonies (such as the swearing into office of the Gonfaloniere and the Priors).

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Nighttime view of the Loggia

After the construction of the Uffizi, at the rear of the Loggia, the Loggia’s roof was modified into a roof garden by Bernardo Buontalenti, turning it into an elegant terrace (now the Uffizi Café Terrace) from which the Medici princes could watch ceremonies in the piazza. The Loggia became an expression of the Medici family power since the sixteenth century, at the time of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. In fact, the sculptures, were chosen, not just according to aesthetic criteria, but also to affirm and represent specific political meaning.

The array of statues inside the Loggia

The vivacious Loggia, effectively an open-air sculpture gallery of antique and Renaissance art, stands in stark contrast with the severe architecture of the Palazzo Vecchio. Its name dates back to the reign of Grand Duke Cosimo I, when it was used to house his formidable landsknechts (German mercenary pikemen). In Italian landsknechts is translated as lanzichenecchi, which was corrupted to Lanzi.

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Trefoils, on the façade of the Loggia, below the parapet, have allegorical figures of the four cardinal virtues (Fortitude, Temperance, Justice and Prudence) by Agnolo Gaddi. Their blue enameled background is the work of Leonardo (a monk), the golden stars were painted by Lorenzo di Bicci while the vault, composed of semicircles, was done by the Florentine Antonio de’ Pucci.

The Medici Lions

On the steps of the Loggia are two Marzoccos, marble statues of lions (called the Medici lions as they originally in the Villa Medici in Rome) which are heraldic symbols of Florence.  That on the right is from Roman times while the one on the left was sculpted by Flaminio Vacca in 1598. Originally placed in the Villa Medici in Rome, they were transferred to the Loggia in 1789.

Statue of a Sabine Woman

On the Loggia’s right wall there’s a Latin inscription, from 1750, commemorating the change of the Florentine calendar (the Florentine calendar used to begin on March 25 instead of January 1 but, since 1749, it started following the standards of the Roman calendar).  A 1893 inscription records the Florentines who distinguished themselves during the annexation of Milan  (1865), Venice  (1866) and Rome (1871) to the kingdom of Italy.

Perseus with the Head of Medusa (Benvenuto Cellini)

Underneath the bay, on the far left, is the bronze statue (also known as Cellini’s Persus) of Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini who worked almost ten years on this bronze (1545-1554). Considered a masterpiece of Italian Mannerism, it shows the mythical Greek hero Perseus, with his well-proportioned muscular body, standing poised on the right leg while brandishing his sword in his right hand and triumphantly holding up the severed head of the dead Medusa (the second face on the back of his head, with a curly beard and a long thin nose is, in fact, a self- portrait of Cellini himself), blood gushing from the head and the neck, in his left. The reflecting Perseus seems to be frightened by his action.

The richly decorated marble pedestal, showing four graceful bronze statuettes, an example of Cellini’s unparalleled talent when working on smaller pieces (due to the fact that he was also an expert goldsmith), of JupiterMercuriusMinerva and Danaë, was also done by Cellini. The bas-relief on the pedestal, representing Perseus freeing Andromeda, is a copy of the original in the Bargello Museum.

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The Rape of the Sabine Women

On the far right is the impressive Manneristic group Rape of the Sabine Women (the first group representing more than a single figure in European sculptural history to be conceived without a dominant viewpoint), made from one imperfect block of white marble (the largest block ever transported to Florence by), was installed in the Loggia in 1583 at the behest of Francesco I de’ Medici, the son of Cosimo I.

This over 4 m. high, marble and bronze group was done by the Flemish artist Jean de Boulogne (better known by his Italianized name Giambologna), who wanted to create a composition with the figura serpentina (an upward snakelike spiral movement to be examined or equally admired from all sides). The goccia (chalk copy) model is now in the Gallerie dell‘Accademia. The marble pedestal, representing bronze bas-reliefs with the same theme, was also done by Giambologna. In recent years, the statue has gone through a series of renovation sessions to protect it from deterioration due to pollution.

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Rape of Polyxena (Pio Fedi)

The Rape of Polyxena is a fine diagonal sculpture group done in the Romantic style by Pio Fedi from 1865.

Hercules beating the Centaur Nesso (Giambologna)

Nearby is Hercules Beating the Centaur Nesso, Giambologna’s less celebrated marble sculpture, sculpted in 1599 from one solid block of white marble, with the help of Pietro Francavilla, and commissioned to Giambologna by Grand Duke Ferdinand I around 1594.  It was placed here in 1841 from the crossroads in Canto de’ Carnesecchi.

Menelaus bearing the corpse of Patroclus. Flavian Era (1st century CE)

The ancient marble group Menelaus supporting the body of Patroclus, discovered in Rome and brought to Florence by Cosimo I,  is a Roman sculpture from the Flavian era, copied from a Hellenistic Pergamene original of the mid third century BC.  Originally standing at the southern end of the Ponte Vecchio, another version of this much-restored Roman marble is in the Palazzo Pitti. It has undergone many unskillful restorations in 1640 (by Ludovico Salvetti, to a model by Pietro Tacca) and about 1830 (by Stefano Ricci).

Statue of Matidia

On the back of the Loggia are five marble female statues of Sabines  (three are identified as Matidia, Marciana and Agrippina Minor) and a statue of a barbarian prisoner Thusnelda from Roman times from the era of Trajan to Hadrian. Discovered in Trajan’s Foro in Rome in 1541, the statues had, since 1584, been in the Villa Medici in Rome and were brought here in 1789 by Pietro Leopoldo. They all have had significant, modern restorations.

Statue of Ulpia Marciana (110-120 CE)

The Feldherrnhalle in Munich, commissioned by King Ludwig I of Bavaria to honor the tradition of his military, was modeled after the Loggia.

Statue of a Sabine Woman

Loggia dei Lanzi: Piazza della Signoria, 50122 FlorenceItaly. Tel: +39 055 23885. Admission: free.

Palazzo Vecchio (Florence, Italy)

Palazzo Vecchio

The Palazzo Vecchio, the town hall of Florence, overlooks the Piazza della Signoria.  Its entrance is flanked by a copy of Michelangelo‘s David statue (erected in 1910, the original once stood at the entrance from its completion in 1504 to 1873, when it was moved to the Accademia Gallery) and Baccio Bandinelli‘s statue of Hercules and Cacus.

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Palazzo Vecchio entrance

Originally called the Palazzo della Signoria (after the Signoria of Florence, the ruling body of the Republic of Florence), it was, in accordance with the varying use of the palace during its long history, also called the Palazzo del PopoloPalazzo dei Priori and Palazzo Ducale. After the Medici duke’s residence was moved, across the Arno River, to the Palazzo Pitti, the building acquired its current name.

Copy of Michaelangelo’s David

When Cosimo later removed to Palazzo Pitti, he officially renamed the Palazzo della Signoria, his former palace, to the Palazzo Vecchio (“Old Palace”), although the adjacent town square, the Piazza della Signoria, still bears the original name.  Although most of it is now a museum, the Palazzo Vecchio remains as the symbol and center of local government.

Hercules and Cacus (Baccio Bandinelli)

Here is the historical timeline of the palace:

  • In 1299,the Florentine commune and people decided to build a palace that would be worthy of the Florence’s importance and, in times of turbulence, would be more secure and defensible for the magistrates of the commune. Construction was begun by Arnolfo di Cambio (the architect of the Duomo and the Santa Croce church) upon the ruins of Palazzo dei Fanti and Palazzo dell’Esecutore di Giustizia once owned by the Uberti family.
  • In 1353, the clock of the Torre d’Arnolfo was constructed by the Florentine Nicolò Bernardo.
  • In the 15th century,Michelozzo Michelozzi added decorative bas-reliefs of the cross and the Florentine lily in the spandrels between the trefoil arches of the windows.
  • In 1494, the Salone dei Cinquecento chamber was built.
  • In May 1540, Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici (later to become grand duke) moved his official seat, from the Medici palazzo in Via Larga, to the Palazzo della Signoria, signaling the security of Medici power in Florence.
  • In 1565, the frescoes at the first courtyard were painted by Giorgio Vasari for the wedding celebration of Francesco I de’ Medici (the eldest son of Cosimo I de’ Medici) to Archduchess Johanna of Austria (sister of the Emperor Maximilian II).
  • Between 1555 and 1572, the surviving decorations were made by Giorgio Vasari and his helpers, among them Livio Agresti from Forlì. They mark the culmination of Mannerism and make this hall the showpiece of the palace.
  • In 1667, the tower clock was replaced with a replica made by Georg Lederle from the German town of Augsburg (Italians refer to him as Giorgio Lederle of Augusta) and installed by Vincenzo Viviani.
  • From 1865–71, at a moment when Florence had become the temporary capital of the Kingdom of Italy, the palace gained new importance as the seat of united Italy’s provisional government.
  • Since 1872, it has housed the office of the mayor of Florence and is the seat of the City Council.

Trefoil arched windows at the facade

The solid, massive and cubical building, made of solid rusticated stonework, has two rows of two-lighted Gothic windows, each with a trefoil arch, and is crowned with a projecting crenellated battlement supported by small arches (under which are a repeated series of nine painted coats of arms of the Florentine republic) and corbels.

The 9 Forentine coat-of-arms

Some of these arches are used as embrasures (spiombati) for dropping heated liquids or rocks on invaders.

Torre d’Arnolfo

The simple, 94 m. high rectangular Torre d’Arnolfo (named after its designer Arnolfo di Cambio) has a large, one-handed clock.

The tower clock

Arnolfo di Cambio incorporated the ancient tower (then known as La Vacca or “The Cow”) of the Foraboschi family into the new tower’s facade as its substructure (this is why the tower is not directly centered in the building). The tower currently has three bells, the oldest cast in the 13th century.

The view of Florence from the top of Torre d’Arnolfo

During our visit, we climbed the 418 steps to the top of the tower where we had 360 degree views of the city.  We entered via the museum. On our way up, we passed the “Little Hotel,” two small cells that, at different times, imprisoned Cosimo de’ Medici (the Elder) (1435) and Girolamo Savonarola (1498).

No more than 35 people can enter at once and, on busy days, you’ll be limited to 30 minutes. In bad weather, it’s closed.

The Vasari corridor, an above-ground walkway commissioned to Giorgio Vasari by Cosimo I, was built from the Palazzo Vecchio, through the Uffizi (where Cosimo I moved the seat of government), over the Ponte Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti.

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The Vasari Corridor

A notable ornamental marble frontispiece, above the front entrance door, dates from 1528. The Monogram of Christ, in the middle, is flanked by two gilded lions.  The text (in Latin) above, dating from 1851 (it does not replace an earlier text by Savonarola as mentioned in guidebooks), reads Rex Regum et Dominus Dominantium (“King of Kings and Lord of Lords”).

The ornamental marble frontispiece above the entrance door

Between 1529 and 1851, this text was concealed behind a large shield with the grand-ducal coat of arms.

The first courtyard

The first courtyard, designed in 1453 by Michelozzo, has harmoniously proportioned columns which, at one time, were smooth and untouched, were at the same time richly decorated with gilt stuccoes. High around the courtyard are lunettes with crests of the church and city guilds while frescoes on the walls are vedutes, some damaged over the course of time, of the cities (GrazInnsbruckLinzViennaHall in TirolFreiburg im Breisgau, Konstanz, etc.) of the Austrian Habsburg monarchy. The barrel vaults are furnished with grotesque decorations.

Barrel vaults, with grotesque decorations, at the first courtyard

In the center of the courtyard is a porphyry fountain by Battista del Tadda. On top of the fountain’s basin is the Putto with Dolphin, a copy of the original small statue by Andrea del Verrocchio (1476), originally placed in the garden of the Villa Medici at Careggi but now on display on the second floor of the palace. Flowing through the nose of the dolphin is water brought here by pipes from the Boboli Gardens.  In front of the fountain is a niche with Samson and Philistine by Pierino da Vinci.

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The massive pillars, in the second courtyard (also called Dogana or “Customs Courtyard”), were built in 1494 by Cronaca to sustain the great, most imposing 52 m. (170 ft.) long and 23 m. (75 ft.) wide “Salone dei Cinquecento” on the second floor.

Grace (center) and Jandy (right) at the first courtyard

The massive and monumental stairs by Giorgio Vasari, between the first and second courtyard, lead up to the Hall of the Five Hundred (Salone dei Cinquecento).  The third courtyard was used mainly for offices of the city.

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The author at the Hall of the Five Hundred

The Studiolo of Francesco I (a studiolo is a small study), a small side room, without windows, situated at the end of the hall, was also designed by Giorgio Vasari (1570–1575) in a Mannerist style. Paintings, stucco and sculptures fill the walls and the barrel vault and Baroque paintings hide secret cupboards. Most paintings, representing the four elements (water, fire, earth and air), are by the School of Vasari. The portrait of Cosimo I and his wife Eleonora of Toledo was made by Bronzino while the delicate bronze sculptures were made by Bartolomeo Ammanati and  Giambologna. The latter, dismantled within decades of its construction, were re-assembled in the 20th century.

Check out “Palazzo Vecchio – Apartments of the Priors” and Palazzo Vecchio – Apartments of Leo X

Normally, the Quartieri monumentali (Residence of the Priors and the Quarters of Leo X), the other rooms on the first floor, are not accessible to the public as they are used by the mayor as offices and reception rooms but, probably it was past office hours, it was opened during our visit.  A staircase, designed by Giorgio Vasari, led us to the second floor where we visited  the Chapel of Signoria, the Hall of Justice (Sala delle Udienze), the Room of the Lilies (Sala dei Gigli), the Study Room and the Apartments of the Elements (Sala degli Elementi).

Check out “Palazzo Vecchio – Apartments of the Elements,” and “Palazzo Vecchio – Apartments of Eleonora”  

Palazzo Vecchio: Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Italy. Tel: +39 055 276 8325. Open daily, 9 AM – 7 PM (except Thursdays, 9 AM  – 2 PM). Admission: €6.00. Combined ticket with Cappella Brancacci: €8.00

Orsanmichele Church (Florence, Italy)

Orsanmichele Church

Orsanmichele Church

The square Orsanmichele Church was constructed on the site of the now gone kitchen garden of the Benedictine monastery of San Michele (from the contraction of “Kitchen Garden of St. Michael” in Tuscan dialect of the Italian word orto.

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It was originally built in 1337 as a grain market  (chutes for the wheat are still to be seen inside the piers) by architects Simone di Francesco Talenti, Neri di Fioravante and Benci di Cione and finished in 1349. Between 1380 and 1404, the loggia was closed in and designed (by Francesco Talenti) and converted into a chapel of Florence’s powerful craft and trade guilds.

Incredulity of St. Thomas (Andrea del Verrocchio)

Incredulity of St. Thomas (Andrea del Verrocchio)

St. George (Donatello)

St. George (Donatello)

The lower level façade was embellished with 14 architecturally designed external niches (originally 13th-century arches that originally formed the loggia of the grain market) which were filled, from 1399 to around 1430, with statues of the guild’s patron saints. The statues of the three richest guilds were made in more costly bronze (approximately ten times the amount of the stone figures).

St. John the Baptist (Lorenzo Ghiberti)

St. John the Baptist (Lorenzo Ghiberti)

St. Luke (Giambologna)

St. Luke (Giambologna)

The tabernacles around the outside, from the foremost Florentine Renaissance artists of the 15th (Nanni di Banco, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Andrea del VerrocchioDonatello) and 16th century (Giambologna), were assigned to the principal guilds (Arti Maggiori), the medium guilds (Mediane) and to the guild of the Armorers and Swordmakers.

St. Matthew (Lorenzo Ghiberti)

St. Matthew (Lorenzo Ghiberti)

Those guilds which did not have the privilege of an external tabernacle had their patron saint depicted in fresco or on panel inside the building. The most important tabernacle, in the center of the façade, facing Via de’ Calzaioli, was assigned first to the Parte Guelfa and then to the Tribunal of the Mercatanzia. The tabernacles are:

  • St. Peter by Donatello
  • St. Philip by Nanni di Banco
  • Four Crowned Saints group by Nanni di Banco
  • St. George (1417) by Donatello
  • St. Matthew by Lorenzo Ghiberti
  • St. Stephan by Lorenzo Ghiberti
  • St. Eligius by Nanni di Banco
  • St. Mark by Donatello
  • St. Jacob by Niccolò di Piero Lamberti (?)
  • Madonna della Rosa by Govanni di Piero Tedesco (?)
  • John the Evangelist by Baccio da Montelupo
  • St. Luke by Gianbologna
  • Incredulity of St. Thomas (1467-83) by Andrea del Verrocchio, replacing Louis of Toulouse (1433) by Donatello
  • St. John the Baptist by Lorenzo Ghiberti

The sculptures seen today are modern duplicates.  To protect them from the elements and vandalism, many of the original sculptures have been removed to the museum of Orsanmichele at the upper floor of the church.  Statues of  St. George (and its niche) and St. Louis of Toulouse, both works by Donatello, are in the Bargello Museum (moved in 1892) and in the Museum of Santa Croce of the Basilica di Santa Croce respectively.

Frescoes of saints on the pillars by Jacopo dal Casentino

Frescoes of saints on the pillars by Jacopo dal Casentino

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The façade also has elegant mullioned windows, in the Late Gothic style, and stained glass by Niccolò di Pietro Gerini showing Scenes and miracles of the Virgin (1395-1405).

The Late Gothic interior

The Late Gothic interior

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The almost intact but atmospherically gloomy Late Gothic interior, with its square layout and piers (their positioning recalls the arrangement of the original open loggia) features the monumental marble altar, with Virtues and scenes from the life of the Virgin in relief, not in the center but to the right.

Fresco painting on ceiling by Jacopo dal Casentino

Fresco painting on ceiling by Jacopo dal Casentino

The bejeweled Gothic tabernacle encases a repainting, by Bernardo Daddi, of an older icon of the Madonna and Child (1346), known as the Madonna delle Grazie.  It was commissioned in 1355, a year after the terrible plague, from Andrea Orcagna (Andrea di Cione), but not finished until 1359.

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The Gothic tabernacle

To the left of the nave is the votive altar of St. Anne, built in 1379 by order of the Signoria, with a marble group of St. Anne, the Virgin and Child by Francesco da Sangallo (c. 1526). On the walls there are patchy traces of frescoes that depict the patron saints of the various guilds.

Altar of St. Anne

Altar of St. Anne

Orsanmichele Church: Via dell’Arte della Lana, corner with Via Calzaiouli 50122 Florence, Italy. Tel: +39 055 23885. Admission: free.  The Museum of the Orsanmichele (Museo di Orsanmichele), reached by the bridge from the adjacent Palazzo dell’Arte della Lana, is open every Monday.

Uffizi Gallery – Great Niobe Room (Florence, Italy)

Great Niobe Room

Among the rich collection of sculptures of the Uffizi Gallery, there is one room dedicated to a group of related sculptures – the Great Niobe’s Room (Sala della Niobe).  One of the most fascinating rooms in the Gallery, this room houses a group of 12 ancient Neo-Classical  marble sculptures (called the Uffizi Niobid group), Roman copies from an original Hellenistic work dating to the 2nd to 3rd century BC.

Statue of Niobe and her Youngest Daughter

In Greek mythologyNiobe, born of the royal house of Phrygia, the arrogant daughter of Tantalus and wife of  Amphion (the founder and ruler of Thebes), had 14 children (7 girls and 7 boys). She was so proud of her own offspring so much so that in the temple, Niobe demands the worshipers of the goddess Leto to worship her instead: “Why do you worship her, not me? My father is Tantalus, my mother is a goddess, my husband establishes and rules this city Thebes, and I have seven sons and seven daughters whereas Latona has only two children….” Manto, the seeress daughter of Tiresias, overheard Niobe’s remark and bid the Theban women placate Leto, in vain.

In his Iliad, Homer wrote about her arrogance and pride.  Leto, in a bid to punish Niobe’s pride, sent her two children,  Apollo and Artemis , to kill Niobe’s children. With bows and poisonous arrows, Artemis aimed to kill the females while Apollo was charged to kill the males. According to some versions, Artemis and Apollo killed them all while, according to others, Meliboea (Chloris) and Amyclas, managed to escape.

According to the Latin poet Ovid  in his “Metamorphoses,” that extreme terror drove Amphion to suicide and turned Niobe into a marble block.  Her tears of pain gave life to a source, on Mt. Sipylus in Lydia (Mansia, Turkey).

The clear educational purpose of the myth (warning against damages of pride) made it subject of many artistic and literary representations. The power of this ancient myth does not diminish through time and Niobe’s tragic story has inspired many artistic and literary representations through the periods such as the Middle Ages, Renaissance, Baroque, Neo-Classical, and by Dutch painters.

Henry IV’s Triumphal Entry into Paris (Peter Paul Rubens)

In 1583, a series of 12 famous surviving Greek sculptures, by anonymous sculptors, was found in the Vigna Tomasini vineyard, near Porta San Giovanni. Cardinal Ferdinando de Medici (the future Grand Duke of Tuscany) immediately bought these for his Roman villa.

“Dying Niobid” (or “”Lying Niobid”) is a marble statue of a recumbent male Niobid lying on a cloak (1st century AD, after a model of the 2nd half of the 4th century BC., Pentelic marble). Height 47.5 cm., width 45.5 cm., length (with restored parts) 177 cm.

Around 1770, the sculptures were brought to Florence and, in 1775, were brought to the Uffizi Gallery. From 1779 – 1780, at the peak of Neo-Classical period (when an important air of artistic renewal was breathed in Florence), Grand Duke Pietro Leopold of Lorraine commissioned the architect Gasparre Maria Paoletti to set up the specially built, 29 by 9 m., 260 sq. m. exhibition room where they are still displayed.

Statue of Eldest Daughter of Niobe

Running Niobid

On May 27, 1993, the room was hit really hard (its frescoes  were damaged beyond repair) by a terrible  car bomb explosion in Via dei Georgofili  initiated by the  Sicilian Mafia that targeted the Uffizi Gallery (5 people died, 60 were wounded, 5 minor works were destroyed and 30 others damaged).

The Rape of Proserpina (Giuseppe Grisoni)

In May 2012, the room was closed because the weight of its 17 marble statues was found to have sunk the floor. The complex and important restoration work, costing an approximately €500,000, involved consolidating the arches of the ceiling and removing the moving parts of the paved floor piece by piece, before reinforcing it. It reopened on February 2013.

The Rape of Proserpina (Giuseppe Grisoni)

Today, the 12 statues are lined up along the walls, spaced apart to allow visitors to admire them in isolation, sacrificing part of the relationships between the various works, as well as the a coffered ceiling covered with gold leaves, the beautiful gilded stucco and light marbles of the floor that highlight the strong natural light which enter through the large windows that overlook Via Lambertesca.

Elder Niobid Male

The sculptures, presenting the divine power over human’s arrogance and egoism, represent young characters lying, kneeling, fleeing, pleading to the sky or shot dead in dramatic and theatrical way as they show their great pain and terror at the moment before their tragic death. The focus of the group is Niobe, who tries to protect her youngest daughter, and directs her terrified and pleading gaze skyward.

Henry IV Triumphal Entry into Paris (Peter Paul Rubens) and The Senators of Florence swearing Allegiance to Ferdinando II de’Medici (Justus Sustermans)

The Niobid statuary was flanked by a group of monumental paintings – Henry IV in the Battle of Ivry and Henry IV’s Triumphal Entry into Paris, both by Peter Paul Rubens; The Senators of Florence swearing Allegiance to Ferdinando II de’Medici (Justus Sustermans) and The Rape of Proserpina (Giuseppe Grisoni).

Second Niobid Climbing a Rock

Younger Niobid Male

Damaged in the 1993 Mafia bombing, the Rubens canvases had been restored and rehung. The Suttermans canvas was restored in 2001 and the Gisoni canvas in 2004.

Kneeled Niobid

Niobid Teacher

Great Niobe Room: Room 42, Second Floor, Uffizi Gallery: Piazzale degli Uffizi (adjacent to the Piazza della Signoria), Florence, Italy. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8:15 AM to 6:50 PM. Closed on Mondays, December 25 and January 1.  Website: www.uffizi.it. Regular admission: €20.  Reduced Price Ticket: €2 for European Union citizens only, aged +18 | -26 upon showing passport or ID, and citizens of non-EU Countries only upon mutual agreement (Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, Liechtenstein). The ticket office closes at 5.30 PM and closing operations start at 6.20 PM.

Free admission for children under 18 years of any nationality (show passport or ID card, children younger than 12 must be accompanied by adults); persons with disabilities (if handicap is certified under Law 104/92, D.M. 507/97 and D.M. 13/2019); scholars; university students and teachers; student groups and teachers; tour guides and interpreters; journalists (enrolled in the Italian Association of Journalists); employees of the Italian Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism; and members of the International Council of Museums (ICOM).

Taking photographs and videos is permitted provided they are taken without flash, lights and tripods, for personal, non-profit use only. The museum’s busiest times are weekends, Tuesdays and mornings. Doubtless, the best part of the day to visit the museum is in the afternoon; better after 4 PM once large groups have left the museum.  Long lines are inevitable so, despite the slightly higher cost of entrance (extra booking fees), it is better to buy your Uffizi tickets ahead of time to skip the long line and spend more time in the museum.

How to Get There: bus service from Santa Maria Novella Station, bus 23.

Uffizi Gallery – The Tribuna (Florence, Italy)

The Tribuna (Tribune)

The essential highlight of our Grand Tour of the Uffizi Gallery is the Tribuna (Tribune), an octagonal room where the most important antiquities and High Renaissance and Bolognese paintings from the Medici collection were displayed in the 18th century and are still are displayed here. Many years before the Uffizi building was officially transformed into a Gallery, the Tribuna was, in a sense, already a “museum.”

To keep the most precious artworks of the Medici collection as well as his jewels and embellishments, Grand Duke Francesco I de’ Medici (son of Cosimo I de’ Medici) asked his friend and collaborator, the architect Bernardo Buontalenti to design the Tribuna which was realized between 1581 and 1583, making it the most ancient room of the Uffizi Gallery.  At that time, the ground floor was still occupied by the Florentine magistrates.  In 1737, the Grand Duchess Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici ceded the collection to the Tuscan government and, by the 1770s, the Uffizi (and in particular the Tribuna) was the hub for Grand Tourists visiting Florence.

The most important room at the first floor and the first nucleus of the Uffizi Gallery, it is probably the only room that, from the 16th century, has been rearranged more frequently, with artwork relocated to other museums or replaced so that the paintings and sculptures had more space.  Changes were made in 1970 and, in 2012, the restoration of the room was finished.

In 1772, Queen Charlotte of the United Kingdom commissioned Johann Zoffany‘s famous painting of the Tribuna.  It portrayed the northeast section but varies the arrangement and brings in works not normally displayed in the room, such as Raphael’s Madonna della Sedia. Connoisseurs, diplomats and visitors to Florence, all identifiable, are seen admiring the works of art.

Arrotino

The Tribuna displayed, according to the concept of a museum in that period, not just works of art (such as sculptures and paintings) but also extraordinary natural items such as precious stones, coins, etc., making it a cabinet of curios containing a condensate of knowledge. The structure was octagonal because, according to Christian tradition, eight is the number which draws near Heaven. In ancient times, octagonal plans were recurrent in the construction of important buildings as well as of baptisteries and basilicas, making the Tribuna a kind of profane temple dedicated to art.

The Dancing Faun

The incredible dome, which symbolizes the Vault of Heaven, has an external lantern with a weather vane (its movements internally reproduced on a painted wind rose) which also works as a sundial. During both equinoxes and solstices, the Sun passing through a hole displays the celestial mechanics also to “those who are inexperienced with planets and the motion of heavenly bodies.”

The Two Wrestlers

The iconography of the Tribune’s decorations and furniture was conceived by Francesco I (who dabbled in alchemy) as a full cosmos featuring the four elements:

  • Earth – represented by the floor, Architect Buontalenti realized it as a wide flower inlaid with polychrome marbles (alabaster from Northern Africa, green porphyry from Turkey, red porphyry from Egypt). Jacopo Ligozzi painted also plants and animals at the base of the walls, along the room’s perimeter.
  • Water – represented on the dome encrusted by 5,780 precious mother-of-pearls coming from the Indian Ocean and masterly set on a background painted with a scarlet varnish achieved, as it was usual in ancient times, by using millions of red cochineals. The shells on the vault refer to the emblem of Bianca Cappello, the woman that the Grand Duke loved for a long time, and that he married in the same period in which the Tribuna was built. The 130 sq. m. of ceiling was then covered, under the varnish, with layers of gold. The frescoed plinth is now lost.
  • Fire – represented by the precious red velvet on the high walls provided with gold fringes.
  • Air – symbolized by the towering lantern open to winds.

The Octagonal Table in the center

At the center of the room is an octagonal table, set with semiprecious stones by Jacopo Ligozzi. The room itself, apart from the paintings, furniture and statues, can be considered a work of art.  Among the series of ancient sculptures, which arrived from the Villa Medici in Rome in the 17th century, is the delicate, Ist century A.D. Venere Medici (Medici Venus).

The Medici Venus

No one can enter the Tribuna as the marble mosaic of the pavement cannot sustain the weight of so many visitors. The most important paintings are now in another room that aspires to reproduce the set-up of the octagonal room.  The paintings on the walls can be admired at a distance.  Still, admiring the Tribuna is, no doubt, a breathtaking experience. The high walls, which terminate with a double drum and a lantern, as well as the windows, ensure that the Tribuna has a natural enlightenment similar to modern museums. The prevalent colors are the same as those in the emblem of the Medici.

Ceiling and wall detail

In the last few years, this room was at the core of the Digital Museum project with a multimedia installation letting visitors observe a 3D version of the sculptures in the Tribune, so they can admire their details and the marvelous project of this room. 

Floor pattern detail

Tribuna: First Floor, Uffizi Gallery: Piazzale degli Uffizi (adjacent to the Piazza della Signoria), Florence, Italy. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8:15 AM to 6:50 PM. Closed on Mondays, December 25 and January 1.  Website: www.uffizi.it. Regular admission: €20.  Reduced Price Ticket: €2 for European Union citizens only, aged +18 | -26 upon showing passport or ID, and citizens of non-EU Countries only upon mutual agreement (Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, Liechtenstein).  The ticket office closes at 5.30 PM and closing operations start at 6.20 PM.

Free admission for children under 18 years of any nationality (show passport or ID card, children younger than 12 must be accompanied by adults); persons with disabilities (if handicap is certified under Law 104/92, D.M. 507/97 and D.M. 13/2019); scholars; university students and teachers; student groups and teachers; tour guides and interpreters; journalists (enrolled in the Italian Association of Journalists); employees of the Italian Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism; and members of the International Council of Museums (ICOM).

Taking photographs and videos is permitted provided they are taken without flash, lights and tripods, for personal, non-profit use only. The museum’s busiest times are weekends, Tuesdays and mornings. Doubtless, the best part of the day to visit the museum is in the afternoon; better after 4 PM once large groups have left the museum.  Long lines are inevitable so, despite the slightly higher cost of entrance (extra booking fees), it is better to buy your Uffizi tickets ahead of time to skip the long line and spend more time in the museum.

How to Get There: bus service from Santa Maria Novella Station, bus 23.

Uffizi Gallery (Florence, Italy)

Uffizi Gallery

The Uffizi Gallery (ItalianGalleria degli Uffizi), one of the most popular tourist attractions of Florence, was on our list of must see places upon our arrival in Florence.  In high season, particularly in July, waiting times can be up to five hours so we bought our tickets online prior to our departure for Italy.

Here are some interesting trivia regarding the museum:

  • With around 2 million visitors annually, it is ranked as the 25th on the most visited art museums in the world. Serious art lovers should visit the Uffizi at least twice to see all of it.
  • This building was never created to be a museum nor intended to welcome up to an average of 10,000 people a day. It was designed to bring, under one roof, the administrative offices (the name uffizi means “offices” in Italian) of the Florentine magistrates such as the Tribunal, the Archivio di Stato (state archive), judiciary offices, the seats of the Florentine Guilds and a vast theater. At first, the halls of the top floor, where the art-fond family started to place the many pieces of their personal private collections (manuscripts, gems, coins, cameos, etc.) were only accessible to the Grand Ducal family, servants and only a few select guests.  However, guests were welcomed on to admire the grandiose collection of Roman sculptures the Medici loved to collect.
  • According to Giorgio Vasari, architect of the Uffizi and the author of Lives of the Artists (published in 1550 and 1568), artists such as Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo were said to have gathered at the Uffizi “for beauty, for work and for recreation.”

The construction of this grandiose, U-shaped Renaissance building, right next to Palazzo Vecchio, was begun by painter, art historian and architect Giorgio Vasari in 1560 for Cosimo I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany and was later continued by Alfonso Parigi and Bernardo Buontalenti and completed in 1581.

Check out “Palazzo Vecchio

Statue of Cosimo de Medici

The long and narrow cortile (internal courtyard) is open to the Arno River, at its far end, through a Doric screen that articulates the space without blocking it (architectural historians treat it as the first regularized streetscape of Europe).

Its perspective length was emphasized by Vasari by the continuous roof cornices of the matching facades, unbroken cornices between storeys and the three continuous steps on which the palace-fronts stand. The niches, in the piers, alternate with columns filled with sculptures of famous artists in the XIX century.

The Uffizi was also planned to display, on the piano nobile, prime art works of the Medici collections.  The plan was carried out by Grand Duke Francesco I, Cosimo’s son, who commissioned architect Bernardo Buontalenti to design the octagonal-shaped  Tribuna degli Uffizi, the first private room dedicated to items that were “any kind of wonder” (favorite works of art,  jewels, etc.) which they through were interesting objects. A highly influential attraction of a Grand Tour and considered the most ancient and precious heart of the Uffizi, the Tribuna collected a series of masterpieces in one room.

Check out “Uffizi Gallery – The Tribuna

The Tribuna (Tribune)

Over the years, more sections of the palace were recruited to exhibit paintings and sculpture collected or commissioned by the Medici.

After the House of Medici was extinguished, Anna Maria Luisa, the last Medici heiress, negotiated terms of the famous Patto di famiglia, allowing the art treasures to remain in Florence.  One of the first modern museums, the gallery had been open, since the sixteenth century, to visitors by request and, in 1769, the Uffizi Gallery and its treasures were officially opened by Leopold of the Lorraine to the public.

Because of its huge collection, some of its works have in the past been transferred to other museums in Florence.  For example, some its famous statues were transferred to the Bargello.

Check out “Bargello Museum

In 2006, the museum’s exhibition space was expanded, from some 6,000 sq. m. (64,000 sq. ft.), to almost 13,000 sq. m. (139,000 sq. ft.), allowing public viewing of many artworks that have previously been in storage.

On May 27, 1993, a car bomb exploded in Via dei Georgofili, damaging parts of the palace and killing five people. The Niobe room, classical sculptures and Neo-Classical interior were most severely damaged but have been restored.

However, its frescoes were damaged beyond repair. The identity of the bomber or bombers are unknown. However, it was almost certainly attributable to the Sicilian Mafia as they were engaged in a period of terrorism at that time.

Check out “Uffizi Gallery – Great Niobe Room

Great Niobe Room

In early August 2007, Florence and the Gallery was partially flooded during a large rainstorm, with water leaking through the ceiling.  Visitors had to be evacuated. In 1966, a much more significant flood damaged most of the art collections in Florence severely, including the Uffizi.

To enter the building, we had to get through lines and the metal detector. Upon entering, we queued, under the eyes of the bust of Peter Leopold by Francesco Carradori, while waiting to have our ticket checked.

Lorraine Antiricetto.  With a nich is the second century AD statue of Apollo restored by sculptor and architect Giovan Battista Pieratti in the first half of the 17th century.  On the left is a pillar with bas-reliefs that tell the story of military victories. In the foreground is a the sarcophagus used for Hippolytus of Rome, a very important theologian of the ancient Christian Church. On its right is a second century AD statue of a dog.

We then took two flights of Renaissance-era stairs. At the top of the main stairway is the so-called Lorraine Antiricetto, the first vestibule that leads directly onto the first corridor, which displays the busts of the Medici-Lorraines (Lorenzo the Magnificent, Ferdinand II of Lorraine, Leopold II, etc.) responsible for the wealth of art works. 

The busts of the Grand Dukes. Above the bust is the coat-of-arms of Alessandro de ‘Medici (attributed to Baccio d’Agnolo)

The busts, placed on wooden stands, each bears a shield on which golden letters show a brief elegy in Latin commemorating what each individual did for the Gallery. Also on display are statues within niches, old bas-reliefs, busts of deities, sarcophagi, urns of good design and sculpture.

then took two flights of Renaissance-era stairs before arriving at the actual entrance to the museum. Upon entry, we were welcomed by stunning frescoed ceilings and the start of its collections.

The museum is organized as a long labyrinth of rooms with amazing works of art displayed roughly in chronological order. To really enjoy these masterpieces, the newly renovated and reopened halls now have a double ceiling with more soft, better lighting.

Rucellai Madonna (Duccio di Boninsegna, 1285, tempera on wood). Here, the Virgin sits on a marvelous inlaid throne and her face, still enigmatic like that of a Byzantine icon, is softened by the hint of a smile. The heavy decoration, typical of Sienese painting of the time, is visible in the golden border of Holy Mary’s garments.

Sala 2 (Giotto and the 13th Century), the first hall, was like the inside of an ancient church, with low lighting (reminding us about candle lights).  It features a trio of giant Maestà altarpieces (tempera on wood panels) of Gothic painters – Madonna in Majesty (1285-86, 385 x 223 cm.) by Cimabue (considered the last Italian artist to be influenced by Byzantine art),  Madonna di Ognissanti (ca. 1310) by Giotto (the true originator of modern painting) and Rucellai Madonna (1285) by Duccio di Boninsegna (the most important representative of the Sienese school of painting that focused on the importance of color and decoration over drawing).

Madonna in Majesty (Cimabue, 1290-1300, tempera on wood)

Sala 3 (The Gothic Sienese School) pays homage to the 14th-century Sienese school with several delicately crafted works by Simone Martini (Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus, 1333) and the Lorenzetti brothers (Pietro and Ambrogio). Of the brothers’ work here, Ambrogio Lorenzetti ‘s Presentation at the Temple (1342) is the finest.

The Coronation of the Virgin (Angelico Fra, 1434)

Sala 4–6 (International Gothic), introducing us to the refined style of painting known as “international or flamboyant Gothic” (developed during the late XIV and the beginning of the XV century), houses the works of the 14th-century Florentine school – Fra AngelicoJacopo Bellini, Lorenzo Monaco (Coronation of the Virgin, 1413), and Gentile da Fabriano (Adoration of the Magi, 1423).  Here, you can clearly see the influence Giotto had on his contemporaries like Bernardo Daddi and Orcagna.

Adoration of the Magi, a masterpiece by Gentile da Fabriano (1423, tempera on wood), with its carved and gilded frame, was commissioned by Palla Strozzi (the richest citizen of Florence according to the census of 1427). A veritable example of the courteous aesthetics and its dreamy flavor, here silver and gold decorations, splendid details, plushy fabrics and gentle figures catch the eye.

At Sala 7 (Cue the Renaissance) the Renaissance proper starts taking shape, driven primarily by the quest of two artists, Paolo Uccello (The Battle of San Romano, 1456) and Masaccio (Madonna and Child with St. Anne, 1424), for perfect perspective.

The Battle of San Romano (Paolo Uccello)

In the center of the room is the unmistakable  Diptych of Duke Federico da Montefeltro  (ca. 1465 or 1470) by Piero della Francesca, one of the most impressive portraits of the Renaissance.

Madonna and Child Enthroned (Filippino Lippi, 1495-96, tempera on wood)

Sala 8 is devoted to Carmelite monk Fra’ Filippo Lippi (one of the protagonists of the early Renaissance) works such as the Madonna and Child  (1455–66, his most famous painting), Coronation of the VirginAllegoryBarbadori Altarpiece, etc.). Also here are a few works by Filippino Lippi, Filippo Lippi’s illegitimate son.

Adoration of the Magi (Filippino Lippi, 1496, tempera on wood)

Sala 9 is an interlude of virtuoso paintings by Antonio del Pollaiuolo, plus a number of large Virtues by Piero del Pollaiolo, his less-talented brother, both masters of anatomical verisimilitude greatly influenced the young Botticelli, three of whose early works reside in the room.

Primavera (Sandro Botticelli)

Sala 10-14 (Botticelli Room), the largest hall of the museum, houses the most stunning and breathtaking paintings by  Sandro Botticelli such as the Adoration of the Magi of 1475, Primavera, the large panel of the Allegory of Spring and the canvas of The Birth of Venus.

The Birth of Venus (Sandro Botticelli, 1484-85)

However, since spring 2015, the Botticelli Room was getting its first restoration in decades so, during our visit, these iconic paintings were temporarily displayed in Room 41, about halfway down the second floor’s Second Corridor.

Portrait of a Man with a Medal of Cosimo the Elder (Sandro Botticelli, ca. 1474)

Remaining there until early 2016, these works will be moved back and Room 41 is given over to Flemish and other northern Renaissance works.

Madonna and Child with Saints (Sandro Boticelli)

Sala 15 (The High Renaissance & Leonardo da Vinci) boasts Leonardo da Vinci’s unfinished Adoration of the Magi  (1481),  the Baptism of Christ (ca.1470-1475) and the beautiful Annunciation (ca. 1472).

Agony in the Garden (Pietro Perugino)

In addition to the works of da Vinci, there are also important works by other famous maestros active during the late 15th and early 16th century such as Pietro Perugino (Pietà, ca.1493-1494), Luca Signorelli, .Lorenzo di Credi (Adoration of the Shepherds) and Piero di Cosimo.

Crucifixion with Mary Magdalene (Luca Signorelli, 1502-05, oil on canvas)

Room 18 (The Tribune) – a small octagonal room (called the Tribuna) designed by Bernardo Buontalenti in 1584 with a pietra dura (stone inlay) floor, mother-of-pearl ceiling dome, and blood red walls covered with High Renaissance and Mannerist paintings.

Ceiling frescoes of one of the salette rooms

Past the Tribune are Sala 19–23 (The Quattrocento beyond Florence), a string of small, narrow rooms (called the salette, in Italian) with lovely but “grotesque” frescoed ceilings (by Lodovico Buti, dating back to 1588), that were reopened in April 2014 after an extensive renovation.

Another ceiling of a salette room

In the middle of the 17th century, the ceilings of the first two rooms were completely redone but the other 3 still contain their original designs which include scenes of battles and other armory-related scenes.

Self Portrait (Albrecht Durer, 1496, oil on panel)

From the end of the 16th century up until 1775, these rooms part of the most ancient section of the Gallery, housed the Medici Armory. The armory was then, in part, moved to the Fortezza da Basso.

Self Portrait (Rubens, oil on panel)

Sold in 1780, Pietro Leopoldo added the rooms to the museum and, only then, did the rooms host paintings by Flemish artists such as Rubens and Rembrandt, designs by Raffaello and prints by Dürer.

Portrait of Pope Julius II (Rafaello, 1443)

These rooms are now a repository for 44 (12 of which are paintings that have been chosen from the large deposit of works owned by the Uffizi Gallery but which were not on display before) of the Uffizi’s greatest paintings by early Renaissance artists working outside of Florence in the 15th century (an era called, in Italian, Il Quattrocento).

Sala 19 displays works by Sienese artists including two large altarpieces of the Madonna and Child Enthroned with Saints, one by Il Vecchietta (the beautiful Madonna in Throne with Saints) and the other by Giovanni di Paolo, as well as works by Matteo di Giovanni and Sano di Pietro.

Madonna and Child Enthroned With Saints (Il Vechietta)

Sala 20 features the greatest artists and works of the Northern Italian Quattrocento masters (Andrea Mantegna, Giovanni Bellini and Antonello da Messina).

Sacred Allegory (Giovanni Bellini, 1490-99,oil on panel)

They include Andrea Mantegna’s Portrait of Carlo de’ Medici, the beautiful Madonna of the Caves (set on a light green background panel) and his triptych Stories from the Life of Christ: Adoration of the Magi, Circumcision, and Ascension (1463–70).

Sacred Allegory (Giovanni Bellini, 1490-99,oil on panel)

Also on display here is Giovanni Bellini‘s Portrait of a Gentleman in his Red Cap and his Sacred Allegory; and a pair of rare works by Antonella da Messina, an early Renaissance master from Sicily.

Sala 20 features the greatest artists and works of the Northern Italian Quattrocento masters. They include Andrea Mantegna’s Portrait of Carlo de’ Medici and his triptych Scenes from the Life of Christ: Adoration of the Magi, Circumcision, and Ascension (1463–70).

Scenes From the Life of Christ (Andrea Mantegna, 1463-64, tempera on panel)

Also on display here is Giovanni Bellini‘s Portrait of a Gentleman in his Red Cap and his Alegoria Sacra; and a pair of rare works by Antonella da Messina, an early Renaissance master from Sicily,.

Sala 21 (The Quattrocento of the Veneto ) features works by Vittore Carpaccio, Cima da Conegliano, etc..

Some of the ceiling decorations in Sala 21 was destroyed in 1944 during the bombing of the streets and bridges along the Arno river by the Germans. In memory of this event, a new mural painting, based on a design by Vittorio Granchi, was made in this spot representing the area after its destruction, with the date “August 1944.”

Madonna and Child (Cima da Conegliano, ca. 1504, tempera on panel)

Sala 22 (Quattrocento of Emilia-Romagna) features the works of Lorenzo Costa, Cosmè Tura, etc. and Sala 23 (Quattrocento of Lombardy) the works of Vincenzo Foppa, Bernardino Luini, etc.

The Doni Tondo (Michaelangelo, 1506-08, tempera on wood)

The fairly new Sala 35, opened in January 2013,  charts the course of art from the period called “High Renaissance” until its final evolution called “Mannerism,” the artistic movement inspired by   Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Raphael.

Madonna and Child with St. John the Baptist and St. Job (Franciabigio, early 16th century)

It displays the Doni Tondo (or the Holy Family with the Infant and St. John the Baptist, ca. 1506-1508) of Michelangelo, the only painting by the great artist remaining in Florence, and certainly the only one that is attributed with certainty to the artist that can be moved (not painted directly on a wall).

Salome (Alonso Berruguette, ca. 1512-16) (1)

Vision of St. Bernard (Fra Bartolommeo)

The new hall also contains works by Andrea del Sarto, Franciabigio, Francesco Granacci, Fra Bartolomeo and Alonso Berruguete, to name just a few.

Madonna and Child with St. John the Baptist and St. Job (Franciabigio, early 16th century)

Joseph Led to Prison (Francesco Granacci, 1515)

In the center of the room is the Sleeping Arianne, a Roman sculpture dating back to the second century A.C.

Sleeping Ariadne

Sala 66 houses  Raphael’s portraits and The Annunciation (1475-80), Leonardo da Vinci ‘s one and only completed panel painting.

Portrait of Pope Leo X with Two Cardinals (Raphael)

The beautiful, long Sala 83 displays 10 works by the great portraitist Titian (also well known by his Italian name, Tiziano), the leading figure of the Venetian school. 

Flora by Titian (ca. 1515-17, oil on canvas) is a sensual image greatly admired long before it arrived in the Uffizi’s collection in 1793 (after an exchange with the Imperial Gallery of Vienna). The beautiful woman, appearing as the Goddess of Fecundity, is also a portrait of a future wife, with similar symbols employed in his more famous Venus of Urbino.

They include Flora,Venus of Urbino, Madonna of the Roses, Portrait of a Knight of Malta, Portrait of Francesco Maria della, Portrait of Pope Sixtus IV, Portrait of Eleonora Gonzaga della Rovere, etc.)

The famous Venus of Urbino, by Titian (1538, oil on canvas), is a masterpiece of sophistication and sensuality

Sala 90 includes 3 masterpieces by Michelangelo Merisi (more widely known as Caravaggio).  According to lore, the Shield with the Head of Medusa says that the face is actually a self-portrait of when the artist was younger.

Sacrifice of Isaac (Caravaggio)

The very famous Bacchus Holding his Goblet of Wine has extraordinarily detailed particulars that make the setting come to life. The Sacrifice of Isaac reveals elements the artist used often as a young painter.

Medusa (Carravaggio, 1597, oil on canvas covered panel)

Other famous works from the painting collection include:

The author with the Madonna of the Goldfinch (Raphael, 1505-06, tempera on wood) in the background

Though the Uffizi Gallery is known worldwide for its famous paintings, it was once called the “Gallery of statues” since the first collection displayed consisted mainly in ancient Roman and Greek statues.

Doryphoros torso

Some of the famous statues of the Medici’s later collections that we can admire today are the wonderful Venus, in the Tribuna, and the so-called Niobe group for which a room of its own was created.

Hercules and Nessus

Moreover, many are the alternating statues and busts displayed all along the wide corridors which outline the u-shaped second floor of the museum.  They include:

Apollo Playing the Cithara

Along the corridors are wide windows where we had great views of  the San Miniato Church, the Bardini Gardens and the Ponte Vecchio over the Arno River.

View of the Arno River from the Uffizi Gallery

Uffizi Gallery: Piazzale degli Uffizi (adjacent to the Piazza della Signoria), FlorenceItaly. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8:15 AM to 6:50 PM. Closed on Mondays, December 25 and January 1.  Website: www.uffizi.it. Regular admission: €20.  Reduced Price Ticket: €2 for European Union citizens only, aged +18 | -26 upon showing passport or ID, and citizens of non-EU Countries only upon mutual agreement (Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, Liechtenstein). The ticket office closes at 5.30 PM and closing operations start at 6.20 PM.

Free admission for children under 18 years of any nationality (show passport or ID card, children younger than 12 must be accompanied by adults); persons with disabilities (if handicap is certified under Law 104/92, D.M. 507/97 and D.M. 13/2019); scholars; university students and teachers; student groups and teachers; tour guides and interpreters; journalists (enrolled in the Italian Association of Journalists); employees of the Italian Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism; and members of the International Council of Museums (ICOM).

Taking photographs and videos is permitted provided they are taken without flash, lights and tripods, for personal, non-profit use only. The museum’s busiest times are weekends, Tuesdays and mornings. Doubtless, the best part of the day to visit the museum is in the afternoon; better after 4 PM once large groups have left the museum.  Long lines are inevitable so, despite the slightly higher cost of entrance (extra booking fees), it is better to buy your Uffizi tickets ahead of time to skip the long line and spend more time in the museum.

How to Get There: bus service from Santa Maria Novella Station, bus 23.

Borghese Gallery (Rome, Italy)

Borghese Gallery (Galleria Borghese)

Borghese Gallery (Galleria Borghese)

The Galleria Borghese (English: Borghese Gallery), an art gallery housed in the former Villa Borghese Pinciana, houses the largest collection of private art in the world – a substantial part of the Borghese collection of paintingssculpture and antiquities, begun by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the nephew of Pope Paul V (reign 1605–1621), an early patron of Bernini and an avid collector of works by Caravaggio.

Museum lobby

Museum lobby

Borghese used it as a villa suburbana, a party villa at the edge of Rome. The collection was originally housed in the cardinal’s residence near St Peter’s but, in the 1620s, he had it transferred to the Casino Borghese, the central building of his new villa just outside Porta Pinciana.  Here are some historical trivia regarding the villa:

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  • The villa was built between 1613 and 1614 by the architectFlaminio Ponzio and Vasanzio, developing sketches by Scipione Borghese himself.
  • About 1775, Prince PrinceMarcantonio IV Borghese added much of the lavish Neo-Classical décor. Under the guidance of the architect Antonio Asprucci, the now-outdated tapestry and leather hangings were replaced, the Casina was renovated and the Borghese sculptures and antiquities were restaged in a thematic new ordering that celebrated the Borghese position in Rome.
  • In 1808, PrinceCamillo Borghese, Napoleon’s brother-in-law, was forced to sell the Borghese Roman sculptures and antiquities to the Emperor.
  • In 1902, the entire Borghese estate and surrounding gardens and parkland were eventually sold to the Italian government.
  • The late 18th century rehabilitation of the much-visited villa as a genuinely public museum was the subject of an 2000 exhibition at theGetty Research Institute, Los Angeles, spurred by the Getty’s acquisition of 54 drawings related to the project.

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The important collection of paintings by Caravaggio, Raphael and Titian, as well as some sensational sculptures by Bernini  and Canova are arranged around 20 decorated rooms over two floors.

Trompe l'oeil ceiling fresco by the Sicilian artist Mariano Rossi

Trompe l’oeil ceiling fresco by the Sicilian artist Mariano Rossi

The ground floor gallery is mainly dedicated to Classical antiquities of the 1st–3rd centuries AD, Classical and Neo-Classical sculpture, intricate Roman floor mosaics (including a famous 320–30 AD mosaic of gladiators found on the Borghese estate at Torrenova, on the Via Casilina outside Rome, in 1834) and over-the-top frescoes.  Its decorative scheme includes a trompe l’oeil ceiling fresco in the first room (or Salone),  by the Sicilian artist Mariano Rossi that makes such good use of foreshortening so much so that it appears almost three-dimensional.The upper floor houses the pinacoteca (picture gallery), a snapshot of Renaissance art.

Pinacoteca (picture gallery)

Pinacoteca (picture gallery)

The entrance hall is decorated with 4th-century floor mosaics of fighting gladiators and a 2nd-century Satiro Combattente (Fighting Satyr). High on the wall is the Marco Curzio a Cavallo, a gravity-defying bas-relief, by Pietro Bernini (Gian Lorenzo’s father), of a horse and rider falling into the void. 

Antonio Canova's Venere vincitrice (Victorious Venus or Venus Victrix, 1805–08), a daring depiction of Paolina Bonaparte Borghese, Napoleon's sister

Antonio Canova’s Venere vincitrice (Victorious Venus or Venus Victrix, 1805–08), a daring depiction of Pauline Bonaparte Borghese, Napoleon’s sister

Sala I is centered on Antonio Canova’s Venere vincitrice (Victorious Venus or Venus Victrix, 1805–08), a daring depiction of Pauline Bonaparte Borghese, Napoleon’s sister, reclining topless. It is the most famous piece in the museum and virtually its symbol.

Apollo Chasing Daphne (Gian Lorenzo Bernini)

Kyle and Grace in front of statue of Apollo and Daphne (Gian Lorenzo Bernini)

Gian Lorenzo Bernini‘s spectacular output of secular sculpture of flamboyant depictions of pagan myths also steal the show.  In the swirling Apollo e Dafne (Apollo and Daphne, 1622–25, created by Bernini at the tender age of 24 for the Scipione Borghese) in Sala III, Daphne’s hands morph into leaves, while in the dynamic Ratto di Proserpina (Rape of Proserpine, 1621–22) in Sala IV, Pluto’s hand presses into the seemingly soft flesh of Persephone’s thigh.

Rape of Proserpine (Gian Lorenzo Bernini)

Rape of Proserpine (Gian Lorenzo Bernini)

All are considered seminal works of Baroque sculpture. Other works include Goat Amalthea with Infant Jupiter and Faun (1615), David (1623) and Aeneas, Anchises & Ascanius (1618–19).

Author in front of statue of Aeneas, Anchises & Ascanius

Author in front of statue of Aeneas, Anchises & Ascanius

Sala VIII (Sala de Sileno) is dominated by works by Caravaggio including the dissipated-looking Bacchino Malato (Young Sick Bacchus; 1592–95), the strangely beautiful La Madonna dei Palafenieri (Madonna with Serpent; 1605–06) and San Giovanni Battista (St John the Baptist; 1609–10), probably Caravaggio’s last work.

David (Gian Lorenzo Bernini, 1623)

David (Gian Lorenzo Bernini, 1623)

There’s also the much-loved Ragazzo col Canestro di Frutta (Boy with a Basket of Fruit, 1593–95), St Jerome Writing (1606), and the dramatic Davide con la Testa di Golia (David with the Head of Goliath; 1609–10, Goliath’s severed head is said to be a self-portrait sent to the Pope to beg for forgiveness after Caravaggio was accused of murder).

Fragment of mosaics

Fragment of mosaics

Upstairs, the pinacoteca displays Raphael’s extraordinary La Deposizione di Cristo (Entombment of Christ, 1507) in Sala IX, and his Dama con Liocorno (Lady with a Unicorn; 1506). In the same room is Fra Bartolomeo’s superb Adorazione del Bambino (Adoration of the Christ Child; 1495) and Perugino’s Madonna con Bambino (Madonna and Child; first quarter of the 16th century).

Leda and the Swan (followers of Leonardo da Vinci)

Leda and the Swan (followers of Leonardo da Vinci)

Madonna and Child (Giovanni Battista Sassoferrato)

Madonna and Child (Giovanni Battista Sassoferrato)

Other highlights include Correggio’s erotic Danae (1530–31) in Sala X, Bernini’s self-portraits in Sala XIV, and Titian‘s early masterpiece, Amor Sacro e Amor Profano (Sacred and Profane Love; 1514) in Sala XX.

Sleeping Venus (Girolamo da Treviso il Giovane)

Sleeping Venus (Girolamo da Treviso il Giovane)

The Deposition (Peter Paul Rubens)

The Deposition (Peter Paul Rubens)

There are also works by Peter Paul Rubens and Federico Barocci. In addition, several portrait busts are included in the gallery, including one of Pope Paul V, and two portraits of Cardinal Scipione Borghese (1632, the second portrait was produced after the a large crack was discovered in the marble of the first version during its creation).

Mourning the Dead Christ (Ortolano)

Mourning the Dead Christ (Ortolano)

Borghese Gallery: Piazzale del Museo Borghese, 5, 00197 Rome, Italy. Tel: +39 06 841 3979 and +39 06 32810. Open Mondays to Fridays, 9 AM – 6 PM, Saturdays, 9 AM – 1 PM.  Website: www.galleriaborghese.it. Admission: € 11.00. To limit numbers, visitors are admitted at two-hourly intervals, so you’ll need to pre-book your ticket and get an entry time.

How to Get There: Pinciana- Museo Borghese (Bus 52, 53, 83, 92, 217, 360, 910)

Villa d’Este – Gardens (Tivoli, Italy)

The Garden of Villa d'Este

The Garden of Villa d’Este

The palatial setting of Villa d’Este is surrounded by a spectacular terraced garden, in the late-Renaissance Mannerist and Baroque style, which took advantage of the dramatic slope but required innovations in bringing a sufficient water supply, which was employed in cascades, water tanks, troughs and pools, water jets and impressive concentration of fountains, water games. This masterpiece of the Italian Garden is included in the UNESCO world heritage list.

Descending into the garden from the villa

Descending into the garden from the villa

Reviving Roman techniques of hydraulic engineering to supply water to a sequence of fountains, the cardinal created a fantasy garden whose architectural elements and water features had an enormous influence on European landscape design and their garden planning and water features such as fountains, nymphs, grottoes, plays of water and music were much copied in the next two centuries, in European gardens from Portugal to Poland to St. Petersburg. The result is one of the series of great 17th century villas with water-play structures in the hills surrounding the Roman Campagna, such as the Villas Aldobrandini and Torlonia in Frascati; the Villa Lante and the Villa Farnese at Caprarola.

Strolling the gardens

Strolling the gardens

  • Painter, architect, archaeologist and Classical scholar Pirro Ligorio was commissioned to lay out the gardens for the villa, with the assistance of Tommaso Chiruchi (he had worked on the fountains at Villa Lante) of Bologna, one of the most skilled hydraulic engineers of the sixteenth century. In the technical designs for the fountains, Chiruchi was assisted by Claude Venard, a Frenchman who was a manufacturer of hydraulic organs.
  • From 1605 Cardinal Alessandro d’Estegave the go-ahead to a new progam of interventions.  He restored and repaired the vegetation and the waterworks and created a new series of innovations to the layout of the garden and the decorations of the fountains.
  • From 1660 – 61, works on 2 fountains were carried out involving Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
  • In the eighteenth century the villa and its gardens passed to the House of Habsburg after Ercole III d’Este bequeathed it to his daughter Maria Beatrice, married to Grand Duke Ferdinand of Habsburg. The gardens were slowly abandoned and  The hydraulics fell into disuse and ruin, and many of the collection of ancient sculptures, enlarged under Cardinal Ippolito d’Este, were disassembled and scattered to other sites. This picturesque state of decay continued, without interruption, until the middle of the 19th century.  It was recorded by Carl Blechen and other painters.
  • In 1851, Cardinal Gustav von Hohelohe, Prince of Hohenlohe-Schillingfürst, obtained the villa, in enfiteusi, from the Dukes of Modena.  To pull the complex back from its state of ruin, he launched a series of works. Between 1867 and 1882, the villa once again became a cultural point of reference.

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The garden has been celebrated in poetrypainting and music:

Villa d’Este’s fame and glory as one of the finest gardens of the Renaissance was established by its extraordinary system of fountains.  It has 51  fountains and nymphaeums, 398 spouts, 364 water jets, 64 waterfalls and 220 basins, all fed by 875 m. of canals, channels and cascades, and all working entirely by the force of gravity, without pumps.

The gardens, now part of the Grandi Giardini Italiani, fall away in a series of terraces. The garden plan is laid out on a central axis with subsidiary cross-axes, refreshed by some 500 jets in fountains, pools and water troughs. Originally supplied with water by the Rivellese spring (which supplied a cistern under the villa’s courtyard), it is now supplied with water by the nearby Aniene River, which is partly diverted through the town, a distance of a kilometer.

Vialone

The Vialone with the Cenacolo in the background

The Vialone, a large, 200 m. long terrace that lies between the villa and the gardens, was constructed between 1568 and 1569.  It has a panoramic view of the gardens and countryside beyond and the Cardinals used the space for fireworks, games, spectacles and festivities. Originally shaded by two rows of elm trees (except for the space directly in front of the villa, left empty to preserve the view), the terrace is enclosed at one end by the Fountain of Europa and, at the other, by the Cenacolo, an immense loggia and belvedere, in the form of a triumphal arch, that provided shade beneath in summer, as well as commanding viewpoints of the scenery. Its interior, originally intended to be decorated with stucco decoration, gilding and frescoes, was never finished.

The double loggia in the center of the terrace, made with travertine stone from 1566–1577, is attached to the facade of the villa. Two stairways provide access to the ceremonial salons on the lower floor. Its upper level, created as a terrace for the Cardinal’s apartments, contains a Nymphaeum (grotto) where the Fountain of Leda is located.  The original statuary of the fountain, depicting Jupiter and Leda transformed into a swan and four children (Elena, Clytemnestra, Castor and Pollux), was sold in the 18th century and is now in the Galleria Borghese in Rome. The original fountain featured a novel hydraulic trick – water spouting from a vase held by Leda struck a metal disk, causing flashes of light to reflect on the walls of the grotto.  The statuary has been replaced by headless statue of Minerva, found in the garden of the Palazzo Manni in Tivoli.

The Fountain of the Tripod, a copy (the original is now in the Louvre) of an ancient Roman fountain in the center of the Vialone, has only been there since 1930.  It consists of a marble basin supported by a central column and three pilasters. The Fountain of the Sea Horses, the original fountain on the site, was moved, by Ippolito, from Hadrian’s Villa to his garden.  It is now in the Vatican Museum.

The Fountain of Europa, at the northeast end at the top of the garden, was begun by Ippolito but was not finished until 1671. Its design, copying that of the Grand Loggia, consists of a triumphal arch with two orders (Corinthian and Doric) of columns.  The large empty niche in the center once held a sculpture Europa Embracing the Bull which is now in the VIlla Albani in Rome.

From Fountain of the Tripod, two ramps lead down to the upper garden and, at either end, there are symmetrical double flights of stairs. The shaded Cardinal’s Walk, attached to the retaining wall of the terrace, leads from one side of the garden to the other, passing by several grottos which are built into the retaining wall. The Grotto of Igea and Aesculpius, at the southeast end of the walk, just below the Fountain of Europa, is decorated with tartar flakes, mosaics and colored fragments of sea shells, and a small portion of the original fresco. It originally held two statues.  The statue of Aesculpius, the God of Medicine, is now found in the Louvre while that of Igea, the daughter of Auesculpius and the Goddess of Healing, is now in the Vatican Museum.

The Loggia of Pandora, in the middle of the Cardinal’s Walk, just below the center of the Villa, is covered, with arcades looking out at the garden. It contains a nymphaeum built into the wall and, originally, was decorated with mosaics and with two statues of Minerva and a statue of Pandora carrying a vase (actually a concealed fountain pouring out water) of water (symbolizing the evils of the world).   The statues were sold in the 18th century.  The staue of Pandora and one of the Minervas are now in the Capitoline Museum. In the 19th century, the nymphaeum was converted into a Christian chapel, a favorite place of the composer Franz Liszt, who dedicated two pieces of music to the chapel.

Fontana del Bicchierone (Fountain of the Great Cup)

Fontana del Bicchierone (Fountain of the Great Cup)

The Fountain of the Bicchierone, one of two fountains created for the villa by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, was made between 1660 and 1661 on a commission from Cardinal Rinaldo I d’Este. The basin of the fountain, in the form of a large shell which reaches up to the level of the terrace, has a toothed Bicchierone (cup or chalice) in the center, from which water sprays upwards. Bernini supervised the building of the fountain and, following its inauguration in May 1661, had the height of the spouting water reduced, to avoid blocking the view from the Loggia of Pandora. Though not part of the original design of the garden, the fountain became a link between the architecture of the palace and the garden.

Fontana del Bicchierone (Fountain of the Great Cup)

Fontana del Bicchierone (Fountain of the Great Cup)

The Loggetta of the Cardinal, a small ballustraded terrace between the Fountain of the Biccherone and the garden, was said to be the Cardinal’s favorite spot for reading and discussing poetry and art, and watching the construction of the garden around him. Surrounded by high laurel hedges and stone benches, it originally had a large statue (now found in the Louvre), installed shortly after the Cardinal’s death, of Hercules with the boy Achilles in his arms, overlooking the garden below. It was one of three statues of Hercules, in central positions along the central axis, that were all visible when seen from the bottom the garden, aligned with the loggia of the villa at the top.

The Grotto of Diana, at the end of the Cardinal’s Walk, below the Gran Loggia, is a large underground vaulted chamber decorated from 1570-72 by Paolo Caladrino.  It is completely covered with mosaics of mythological scenes, with images of fish, dragons, dolphins, pelicans and other animals, as well as the eagles and apples of the d’Este family. The rustic fountain, its central feature, has a statue of the goddess Diana in a large niche decorated with stucco reliefs of landscapes, the sea and a ship. Sold in the 18th century, all of these statues are now in the Capitoline Museum in Rome. Some of the original 16th century majolica floor tiles can still be seen.

A walkway, below the Loggetta of the Cardinal, traverses the garden and passes by three grottoes. The Grotto of Hercules, in the center, is covered by the Loggetta of the Cardinal. Beneath it is  a cistern and some of the hydraulic machinery for the fountains below. The grotto once had stucco reliefs of either animals or the labors of Hercules and a statue of Hercules in repose (now in the Vatican Museum).

Mask spouting water in the Grotto of Pomona

Mask spouting water in the Grotto of Pomona

The Grotto of Pomona, similar in design to the Grotto of Hercules, has some of its original mosaic decoration still visible. The water from a white marble mask (found when the fountain was restored in 2002) pours into a fountain.

Fontana dell'Ovato (Oval Fountain)

Fontana dell’Ovato (Oval Fountain)

The Oval Fountain (Fontana dell’Ovato) one of the first and among the most famous fountains in the garden, was designed by Pirro Ligorio as a water theater, spraying water in variety of forms. Begun in 1565 and finished in 1570, it was made by fountain engineers Tomasso de Como and Curzio Maccarono, with sculpture by Raffaello Sangallo. A massive stone basin, set against the semicircular back wall, cascades water into the fountain and sprays it into the air while water jets into the basin, from vases in the hands of statues of Nereids, and also sprays in fan shapes from vases in niches in the semicircular wall behind the fountain.

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An artificial mountain, rising above the fountain, symbolizes the Tiburtine landscape.  The mountain is pierced by three grottoes, each pouring forth water, and is decorated with statues representing the Sibyl Albunesa with her son Melicerte, by Gillis van den Vliete (1568), and statues representing rivers Erculaneo and Anio, by Giovanni Malanca (1566), all of which pour water into the Oval Fountain.

An upper walkway, above the fountain, leads past past the ring of basins and cascades. The Grotto of Venus, the fountain’s own grotto, was designed by Pirro Ligorio and built in 1565–68. It served as a meeting place for guests on hot summer days. A figure of Venus, similar to the Capitoline Venus, and two putti , the original statues of the grotto, are no longer there but traces of the monochrome murals of grotesque figures, tiles and sculpted grotto walls still remain.

The fountain on a side wall, framed within a Doric, contains a sculpture of a sleeping nymph in a grotto guarded by d’Este heraldic eagles, with a bas-relief framed in apple boughs that links the villa to the Garden of the Hesperides.

Flanking the central axis are symmetrical double flights of stairs that lead to the next garden terrace.  The Grotto of Diana, richly decorated with frescoes and pebble mosaic, is on one side. Water rom the central Fontana del Bicchierone (“Fountain of the Great Cup”), planned by Bernini in 1660, issues from a seemingly natural rock into a scrolling shell-like cup.

La Rometta (Little Rome)

La Rometta (Little Rome)

To descend to the next level, there are stairs at either end.  La Rometta (“the little Rome”), an elaborate fountain complex, is at the far left.  The boat, with an obelisk mast, symbolizes the Tiburtina island in the Tiber, below the statue of Rome Triumphant.

Hundred Fountains

Hundred Fountains

The water jets of the Hundred Fountains (Cento Fontane), on the next level, fill the full length of a long rustic trough.  The Fontana dell’Ovato ends the cross-vista. A visitor may walk behind the water through the rusticated arcade of the concave nymphaeum, which is peopled by marble nymphas by Giambattista della Porta. Above the nymphaeum, the sculpture of Pegasus recalls to the visitor the fountain of Hippocrene on Parnassus, haunt of the Muses.

Hundred Fountains

Hundred Fountains

The 16th-century Fontana di Diana Efesina (Fountain of Diana of Ephesus) has water flowing from her numerous breasts, symbolizing fertility and abundance, both of nature and of intellect.

Fountain of Diana of Ephesus

Fountain of Diana of Ephesus

The central Fontana dei Draghi (Fountain of the Dragons), dominating the central perspective of the gardens, was erected for a visit in 1572 of Pope Gregory XIII whose coat-of-arms features a dragon. It unites the terrace to the next.  The sound of this fountain was in contrast to a nearby Uccellario with artificial birds. Central stairs lead down a wooded slope to three rectangular fishponds set on the cross-axis at the lowest point of the gardens.  It is terminated, at the right, by the water organ (now brought back into use) and Fountain of Neptune (belonging to the 20th century restorations). 

Neptune Fountain

Neptune Fountain

The very formal Fountain of the Owl, at the southwest part of the garden, below the Fountain of Rometta and the Fountain of Proserpina, was built between 1565 and 1569 by Giovanni del Duca, These 3 fountains have terraces connected by stairways, with nymphaeums placed beneath the terraces. Placed on a terrace surrounded by walls with niches, it crowned with the white eagles and lily symbols of the d’Este.

The Fountain of the Owl (a.k.a. Bird's Fountain)

The Fountain of the Owl (a.k.a. Bird’s Fountain)

The fountain, covered with polychrome tiles, has the coat of arms of the d’Este, held by two angels, at the top, above the niche flanked by Ionic columns. Though the architectural elements are intact, the statues of two youths holding a goatskin which poured water into a basin held by three satyrs are missing or were destroyed. The sculpture in the niche, believed lost, was rediscovered during a renovation in 2001–02, hidden under mineral deposits and earth.

This fountain also produced music, thanks to Its ingenious automaton made by the French organ maker Luc Leclerc, installed in 1566, before the Fountain of the Organ on the other side of the garden. It featured wenty painted bronze birds placed in the niche, posed on two metal olive branches. Each bird sang an individual song, produced by piped water and air. A mechanical owl appeared, and the birds stopped singing; then, at the end of the performance, all the birds sang together. This musical feature was admired and copied in other European gardens, and functioned until the end of the 17th century. It needed constant repair due the action of the water on its delicate mechanism, and by the 19th century were completely ruined. The decorative elements of the fountain were completely restored in the 19030s, and restored again in 2001-2002, [21]

During the restoration work of 2001–02, the workers found some of the original mechanism that produced the bird songs, including the wind chamber, the tubes that moved the air and water, and the machinery that made the owl move. Using modern materials, Leonardo Lombardi was able to make a new version of the old machinery so the birds can sing and move again.

The series of terraces above terraces and the imposing constructions in the hanging cliffs of the “Valle gaudente” bring to mind the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world plus, the addition of water (including an aqueduct tunneling beneath the city) evokes the engineering skill of the Romans.  Its landscape, art and history (which includes the important ruins of ancient villas such as the magnificent Villa Adriana) as well as a zone rich in caves and waterfalls (which display the unending battle between water and stone) is generally considered within the larger and, altogether extraordinary, context of Tivoli itself.

Fountain of the d'Este eagles

Fountain of the d’Este eagles

Villa d‘ Este: Piazza Trento, 5, 00019 Tivoli,  RM, Italy. Tel: 0039 0412719036. Fax: 0039 0412770747. E-mail:  villadestetivoli@teleart.org. Website: www.villadestetivoli.info.

Open 8.30 AM – 6.45 PM (May to August), 8:30 AM – 4 PM (January, November, December), 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM (February), 8:30 AM – 5:15 PM (March), 8:30 AM – 6:30 PM (April), 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM (October) and 8:30 AM – 6:15 PM (September). Admission: € 8.00. The visitor can take pictures without any physical contact with the cultural heritage and he cannot use either flash or tripod. 

How to Get There:

  • Taking the blue regional COTRAL busRoma Tivoli-Via Prenestina at the bus terminal just outside Ponte Mammolo station of metro line B; the stop Largo Nazioni Unite is about 100m far from the entrance of the Villa.
  • Taking the urban train line FL2 (Roma-Pescara Line) from Tiburtina stationto Tivoli station (Stazione Tivoli), then, local bus CAT number 1 or 4/ to Piazza Garibaldi stop; the stop is in Tivoli’s main square in front of the Villa.