Colosseum (Rome, Italy)

The Colosseum

The Colosseum

The oval, entirely free-standing Colosseum or Coliseum,  an iconic symbol of Imperial Rome, is situated just east of the Roman Forum. Following the reign of Nero, it was began by emperor Vespasian in AD 72 and completed in AD 80 by his son and successor Titus. Further modifications were made during the reign of Vespasian’s younger son Domitian (81–96).

The outer wall

The outer wall

It has suffered extensDSC00278ive damage over the centuries, with large segments having collapsed following earthquakes. In 217, the wooden upper levels of the amphitheater’s interior was destroyed by a major fire (caused by lightning, according to Dio Cassius) and was not fully repaired until about 240.  Further repairs were done in 250 or 252 and again in 320. Gladiatorial fights are. Various parts of the Colosseum were restored under Theodosius II and Valentinian III (reigned 425–455), possibly to repair damage caused by a major earthquake in 443.  More work followed in 484 and 508.

 

The outer wall (left) and the nearly intact inner wall

The outer wall (left) and the nearly intact inner wall

The great 1349 earthquake severely damaged the Colosseum.  The outer south side, lying on a less stable alluvial terrDSC00283ain, collapsed and much of the tumbled stone was reused to build palaces, churches, hospitals and other buildings elsewhere in Rome. The interior of the amphitheater was extensively stripped of stone, which was reused elsewhere.  The marble façade was burned to make quicklime. The bronze clamps, used to hold the stonework together, were pried or hacked out of the walls, leaving numerous pockmarks which still scar the building today.

 

The Colosseum interior

The Colosseum interior

In 1807 and 1827, the façade was reinforced with triangular brick wedges and, in 1831, 1846 and in the 1930s, the interior was repaired. In 1810–1814 and 1874, the arena substructure was partly excavated and, in the 1930s, was fully exposed under Benito Mussolini. Between 1993 and 2000, due to the effects of pollution and general deterioration over time, a major restoration program was carried out at a cost of 40 billion Italian lire ($19.3 million/ €20.6 million at 2000 prices).

The raked areas that once held seating

The raked areas that once held seating

Here are some interesting facts and trivia regarding the Colosseum:

  • Built of concrete and sand, it is the largest amphitheatre ever built.
  • One of Rome’s most popular tourist attractions, it receives millions of visitors annually.
  • Elliptical in plan, it is 189 m. (615 ft./640 Roman ft.) long, 156 m. (510 ft./528 Roman ft.) wide and has a base area of 24,000 sq. m. (6 acres). Its outer wall is 48 m. (157 ft./165 Roman ft.) high. Its perimeter originally measured 545 m. (1,788 ft./1,835 Roman ft.). The central arena is an oval 87 m. (287 ft.) long and 55 m. (180 ft.) wide, surrounded by a wall 5 m. (15 ft.) high, above which rose tiers of seating. The arena itself was 83 m. by 48 m. (272 ft. by 157 ft./280 by 163 Roman ft.).
  • Its outer wall was estimated to have required over 100,000 cu. m. (3,531,467 cubic ft.) of travertine stone which were set without mortar and  held together by 300 tons of iron clamps.
  • According to the Codex-Calendar of 354, the Colosseum could accommodate 87,000 spectators, although modern estimates put the figure at between 50,000 and 80,000, having an average audience of some 65,000.
  • The Colosseum was used for gladiatorial contests (last mentioned around 435) and public spectacles such as mock sea battles (for only a short time as the hypogeum was soon filled in with mechanisms to support the other activities), animal hunts (continued until at least 523, when Anicius Maximus celebrated his consulship with some venationes), executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on Classical mythology.
  • In the Early Medieval era, the building ceased to be used for entertainment but numerous vaulted spaces in the arcades under the seating were later reused for housing and workshops.  It was also reused as a fortress (around 1200 by the Frangipani family), quarters for a Christian religious order (from mid-14th century until as late as the early 19th century), a quarry (stones from the Colosseum were taken for the building of other sacred sites), and a Christian shrine (in 1749, by Pope Benedict XIV).
  • The Colosseum is also depicted on the Italian version of the five-cent euro coin.
  • The Colosseum has become a symbol of the international campaign against capital punishment. The color of the Colosseum’s night time illumination changes from white to gold whenever a person condemned to the death penalty anywhere in the world gets their sentence commuted or is released,or if a jurisdiction abolishes the death penalty (most recently on November 2012, following the abolition of capital punishment in the American state of Connecticut in April 2012).
  • Large concerts, using the Colosseum as a backdrop, have been held just outside. They included  concerts o Ray Charles (May 5, 2002), Paul McCartney (May 11,  2003), Elton John (September 3, 2005), and Billy Joel (July 31, 2006).
Cross dedicated to the Christian martyrs, placed in 2000 by Pope John Paul II

Cross dedicated to the Christian martyrs, placed in 2000 by Pope John Paul II

The iconic Colosseum has been featured in numerous films:

Roman Holiday

Roman Holiday

Demetrius and the Gladiators

Demetrius and the Gladiators

Colosseum seating

Colosseum seating

The remainder of the present-day exterior of the Colosseum is, in fact, the original interior wall. The surviving part of its monumental façade comprises three stories of superimposed arcades framed by half-columns of the DoricIonic, and Corinthian orders and surmounted by a podium on which stands a tall attic decorated with Corinthian pilasters, both of which are pierced by windows interspersed at regular intervals. At the second- and third-floor arcades, arches framed statues, probably honoring divinities and other figures from Classical mythology. The north side of the perimeter wall, though still standing, has distinctive triangular brick wedges at each end that are modern additions, having been constructed in the early 19th century to shore up the wall.

Maenianum Primum

Maenianum Primum

Positioned around the top of the attic are 240 mast corbels that originally supported a retractable awning,known as the velarium (a canvas-covered, net-like structure made of ropes, with a hole in the center), that kept the sun and rain off spectators over two-thirds of the arena and sloped down towards the center to catch the wind and provide a breeze for the audience. Working on the velarium are sailors specially enlisted from the Roman naval headquarters at Misenum and housed in the nearby Castra Misenatium.

Maenianum Secundum

Maenianum Secundum

DSC00299The amphitheater was ringed by 80 numbered outer entrances, many of which have disappeared with the collapse of the perimeter wall (only entrances XXIII to LIV still survive) at ground level, 76 of which were used by ordinary spectators.  All four axial entrances, richly decorated with painted stucco reliefs (of which fragments survive) consisted of a northern main entrance  reserved for the Roman Emperor and his aides and three other axial entrances most likely used by the elite. Special boxes at the north and south ends, for the Emperor and the Vestal Virgins, provide the best views of the arena. They were provided with separate tunnels to permit them to enter and exit the Colosseum without needing to pass through the crowds. A broad platform or podium, for the senatorial class (they  were allowed to bring their own chairs), flanked them at the same level

Maenianum Secundum in Legneis

Maenianum Secundum in Legneis

Fragment of an ancient Roman equestrian statue

Fragment of an ancient Roman equestrian statue

The maenianum primum, the tier above the senators, was occupied by the non-senatorial noble class or knights (equites) while the next level up, divided into two sections, is the maenianum secundum, originally reserved for ordinary Roman citizens (plebeians). The lower part (the immum) was reserved for wealthy citizens while the upper part (the summum) was for poor citizens. The maenianum secundum in legneis, a level added at the very top of the building during the reign of Domitian (either standing room only or having very steep wooden benches), was a gallery for the common poor, slaves and women. Gravediggers, actors and former gladiators were banned altogether from the Colosseum.

The author

The author

Inscriptions identified the areas reserved for specific groups (boys with their tutors, soldiers on leave, foreign dignitaries, scribes, heralds, priests, etc.) with the names of some 5th century senators still seen carved into the stonework (presumably reserving areas for their use). Stone (and later marble) was provided for the seats of citizens and nobles (presumably they brought their own cushions with them).

L-R: Kyle, Cheska, Jandy and Grace

L-R: Kyle, Cheska, Jandy and Grace

Curved passages and low walls (praecinctiones or baltei) divided each tier into sections (maeniana) and were further subdivided into cunei, or wedges, by the steps and aisles from the vomitoria. Each row (gradus) of seats was numbered, permitting each individual seat to be exactly designated by its gradus, cuneus, and number.

Hypogeum

Hypogeum

The arena (part of it re-floored), comprising a wooden floor covered by sand (harena or arena is the Latin word for sand), covers the hypogeum  (literally meaning “underground”), an elaborate two-level subterranean network, built by Emperor Domitian, of tunnels and cages beneath the arena where gladiators and animals were held before contests began. It was connected by underground tunnels to a number of points outside the Colosseum. Caged animals and scenery pieces concealed underneath were provided instant access to the arena by 80 vertical shafts while larger hinged platforms, called hegmata, provided access for elephants and the like.

Hypogeum (2)

A museum, dedicated to Eros, is located in the upper floor of the outer wall of the building.

Base of the statue of Praefectus Urbi (Prefect of Rome)

Base of the statue of Praefectus Urbi (Prefect of Rome)

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo, 1, 00184 RomeItaly. Open daily, except January 1 and December 25. Tel:  (+39) 06 39967700 (Mondays-Saturdays, 9 AM -1:30 PM and 2:30 -5 PM).  Tickets (€2) can also be bought (often avoiding a long queue) at the ticket offices in Via di San Gregorio (Palatine), Largo Salara Vecchia (former Largo Romolo e Remo  – Roman Forum) and Via Sacra (Roman Forum, Arco di Tito). The Colosseum, together with the Forum/Palatine Hill ticket, is valid for both.

How to Get There
The Colosseum is located a few hundred yards from Piazza Venezia, and close to the Forum.

  • On “B” line Metro station Colosseo
  • “A” line Metro station Manzoni, then two stops of Tram No. 3 going southwards
  • Bus lines 60, 75, 85, 87, 271, 571, 175, 186, 810, 850, C3, and the electric minibus 117
  • Tramway Line No. 3.

Arch of Constantine (Rome, Italy)

Arch of Constantine

Arch of Constantine

Situated between the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill is the Arch of Constantine (ItalianArco di Costantino), a triumphal arch erected and dedicated on July 25, 315 by the Roman Senate to commemorate,  as described on its attic inscription, Constantine I‘s victory over  the then reigning emperor  Maxentius (306–312) at the Battle of Milvian Bridge on October 28, 312.  The largest and the last of

DSC08670

West side o the arch

the existing Roman triumphal arches, it spans the Via triumphalis, the way taken by the emperors when they entered the city in triumph.

Though dedicated to Constantine, this 21 m. high, 25.9 m. wide and 7.4 m. deep arch is actually a collage incorporating much of the decorative material from earlier work from the time of the emperors Trajan (98–117), Hadrian (117–138) and Marcus Aurelius (161–180).

Attic detail, south - left side

Attic detail, south – left side

It is also the only one to make extensive use of spolia, reusing several major reliefs from 2nd century imperial monuments to make up for the lack of time to create new art. The most impressive surviving civic monument from Rome in Late Antiquity, it is, with regards to its origins and meanings, also one of the most controversial.

Attic detail, south - right side

Attic detail, south – right side

The arch has three archways, the central one being 11.5 m. high and 6.5 m. wide and the lateral archways 7.4 m. by 3.4 m. each. The attic, above the archways, is composed of brickwork reveted (faced) with marble.

Inscription at the top of the attic

Inscription at the top of the attic – “To the Emperor Caesar Flavius Constantinus, the greatest, pious, and blessed Augustus: because he, inspired by the divine, and by the greatness of his mind, has delivered the state from the tyrant and all of his followers at the same time, with his army and just force of arms, the Senate and People of Rome have dedicated this arch, decorated with triumphs”

The emperor sacrificing a pig, sheep and bull (suovetaurilia)

The emperor sacrificing a pig, sheep and bull (suovetaurilia)

On the top of each column, large sculptures representing Dacians, dating from the time of Trajan, can be seen, which. Above the central archway, identical on both sides of the arch, is the inscription, forming the most prominent portion of the attic.

Above the minor lateral archways, flanking the inscription on both sides, are four pairs of relief panels (eight in total), taken from an unknown monument.

It commemorates Marcus Aurelius’ war against the Marcomanni and the Sarmatians from 169 – 175, which ended with Marcus Aurelius’ triumphant return in 176. They are, from left to right:

  • the emperor’s return to Rome after the campaign (adventus) – north side
  • the emperor leaving the city and saluted by a personification of theVia Flaminia – north side
  • the emperor distributing money among the people (largitio) – north side
  • the emperor interrogating a German prisoner – north side
  • a captured enemy chieftain led before the emperor – south side
  • other prisoners led before the emperor – south side
  • the emperor speaking to the troops (adlocutio) – south side
  • the emperor sacrificing a pig, sheep and bull (suovetaurilia) – south side
Captured enemy chieftain led before the emperor

Captured enemy chieftain led before the emperor

From the same time period the two large (3 m high) panels decorating the attic on the east and west sides of the arch show scenes from Trajan‘s Dacian Wars.

Together with the two reliefs on the inside of the central archway, these came from a large frieze celebrating the Dacian victory.

The general layout of the main facade is identical on both sides of the arch.  The four columns (one of which has been transferred into the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano and was replaced by a white marble column), on bases (plinths or socles), are of the Corinthian order, decorated on three sides and made of Numidian yellow marble (giallo antico).

The emperor speaking to the troops (adlocutio)

The emperor speaking to the troops (adlocutio)

Other prisoners led before the emperor

Other prisoners led before the emperor

They divide the structure into a central arch and two lateral arches, the latter being surmounted by two round reliefs, dating to the times of Emperor Hadrian, over horizontal friezes.

The reliefs on the front show Victoria, either inscribing a shield or holding palm branches.  Those to the side show captured barbarians alone or with Roman soldiers.

The pairs of round reliefs display scenes of hunting and sacrificing:

  • hunt of a boar – north side
  • sacrifice toApollo – north side
  • hunt of a lion– north side
  • sacrifice toHercules – north side
  • the departure for the hunt – south side
  • sacrifice toSilvanus – south side
  • the hunt of a bear – south side
  • sacrifice toDiana – south side
Relief detail - left

Relief detail – left

Round relief, south side - Sacrifice to Silvanus

Round relief, south side – Sacrifice to Silvanus

In all the medallions, the head of the emperor, originally Hadrian’s, has been reworked.  On the north side, it has been reworked into Constantine in the hunting scenes and into Licinius or Constantius I in the sacrifice scenes.  On the south side, it’s vice versa. The porphyry framing of the 2 m. diameter reliefs is only extant on the right side of the northern facade. Similar medallions, also during Constantine’s time, are located on the small sides of the arch.   The Sun and the Moon, both on chariots, rises on the eastern and western sides, respectively.

Round relief, south side - Sacrifice to Diana

Round relief, south side – Sacrifice to Diana

The spandrel of the main arch is decorated with reliefs depicting victory figures with trophies while those of the lateral arches show river gods. The bases of the columns and the spandrel reliefs are from the time of Constantine. The “historical,” horizontal frieze below the round reliefs depict scenes from the Italian campaign of Constantine against Maxentius (which was the reason for the construction of the monument), one strip above each lateral archway and including the west and east sides of the arch.  Running around the monument, they are the main parts from the time of Constantine.

Relief detail - right

Relief detail – right

Round relief, south side - Sacrifice to Silvanus

Round relief, south side – Sacrifice to Silvanus

The frieze starts at the western side with the Departure from Milan (Profectio), continues on the southern face, with the Siege of Verona (Obsidio) on the left (southwest), an event which was of great importance to the war in Northern Italy. The Battle of Milvian Bridge (Proelium), with Constantine’s army victorious and the enemy drowning in the Tiber River , is depicted on the right (southeast).

Round relief, south side - The hunt of a bear

Round relief, south side – The hunt of a bear

Constantine and his army enter Rome (Ingressus) is depicted on the eastern side while on the northern face, looking towards the city, are two strips with the emperor’s actions after taking possession of Rome. On the left (northeast) is Constantine speaking to the citizens on the Forum Romanum (Oratio) while the final panel, to the right (northwest), depicts Constantine distributing money to the people (Liberalitas).

Spandrel over main arch

Spandrel over main arch

On each wall of the central archway is one large panel of Trajan’s Dacian War. Eight portraits busts (two on each wall) inside the lateral archways are destroyed, to such an extent that it is no longer possible to identify them.

Scenes from Trajan's Dacian Wars

Scenes from Trajan’s Dacian Wars

Arch of Constantine : Via di San Gregorio, Rome, Italy.

Palatine Hill (Rome, Italy)

The Roman Forum

The surprisingly peaceful and majestic Palatine Hill (LatinCollis Palatium or Mons Palatinus; ItalianPalatino) is the centermost of the Seven Hills of Rome and is one of the most ancient parts of the city. It stands 40 m. above the Forum Romanum, looking down upon it on one side, and upon the Circus Maximus on the other. Here are some interesting trivia regarding the Palatine Hill:

  • The English word “palace,” the Italian word “palazzo,” the French word “palais,” the German word “palest,” the Czech word “palace,” etc.,  are all derived from the Palatine.
  • Cacus, a ferocious, fire-breathing giant cannibal , was said to have once lived in a cave the Palatine. Regularly terrorizing the residents of neighboring Aventine Hill, he was finally defeated by the hero Hercules.
  • The Palatine is site of the festival of the Lupercalia, derived from the Lupercal, the cave where Romulus the mythical founder of Rome, and his twin brother Remus were found and raised by the she-wolf.
  • Regarded as one of the most prestigious neighborhoods in the city because of its mythical association, central location, spectacular views of the city, cooler summer temperature and cleaner air, the Palatine was the site of the residences of many affluent Romans of the Republican period (c.509 BC – 44 BC) and, during the Empire (27 BC – 476 AD), was the site of the palaces, now in ruins, of Emperors Tiberius (14 – 37 AD) and Domitian (81 – 96 AD).
  • The emperor Augustus (27 BC – 14 AD) was born on the Palatine.  He later lived there in luxury, with his wife Livia (58 BC – 29 AD). The remains of the House of Augustus and the House of Livia, with some of the most impressive ancient art in the city, are beautifully decorated with colorful frescoes. Beside his own palace, Augustus also built a temple to Apollo. Situated near the House of Livia is the temple of Cybele, currently not fully excavated and not open to the public. Cut into the side of the hill behind this structure is the so-called House of Tiberius.
  • In 41 AD, the 28 year old Emperor Caligula was assassinated in the cryptoporticus, a a semi-subterranean, barrel-vaulted corridor of about 130 m. beneath the palaces on the Palatine, stabbed up to 30 times by his loyal guard who responded by indiscriminately slaughtering anyone (including innocent bystanders) who were nearby.
  • During the Middle Ages, convents and churches (the oratory of Caesarius, Santa Anastasia, Santa Lucia, San Sebastiano) were built over the remains of older buildings of the Palatine, and the noble Frangipani family used them, along with the Colosseum and Arch of Constantine, to create a fortified stronghold.
  • In 1550, during the Renaissance Period, Cardinal Alessandro Farnese purchased a section of the Palatine and created beautiful Farnese Gardens, the first private botanical gardens in Europe.  Featuring a nymphaeum, an aviary, a tree-shaded park of terraces, lawns, flowerbeds, pavilions, fountains and a wealth of art, over time it fell into disuse but some parts can still be visited today.

The Palatine Hill, and the Forum Romanum  beneath it, is now a large open-air museum.  Using the same ticket as the Colosseum, we visited it via the entrance on Via di San Gregorio, the street just beyond the Arch of Constantine, going away from the Colosseum.

Check out “Colosseum” and “Arch of Constantine

Jandy and Grace at the Via di San Gregorio entrance

Overlooking the  Roman Forum is the enormous Flavian Palace  (also known as the Domus Flavia or the Domus Augustana) which was built, extended and modified largely during the reigns of VespasianTitus and Domitian of the Flavian dynasty (69 – 96). This palace, which extends across the Palatine Hill, looks out over the Circus Maximus, a huge structure which could accommodate 300,000 spectators. During the reign of the emperor Septimius Severus (146 – 211), the imposing brick building of the greater part of the palace visible from the Circus was undertaken.

Domus Severiana

The 621 m. (2,037 ft.) long and 118 m. (387 ft.) wide Hippodrome of Domitian or Stadium, which could accommodate 150,000 spectators, was built between AD 81 and 96.  Situated in the valley between the Aventine and Palatine hills, immediately adjacent to the Flavian palace of Severus, it is the first and largest stadium in ancient Rome and its later Empire.

House of Livia

House of Augustus

Temple Antoninus

The Hippodrome has the appearance of a Roman Circus (its name means “circus” in Greek) but is too small to accommodate chariots. Hippodromes, originally areas for exercising horses, were later used, in Rome, to describe elongated rectangular gardens or as a Greek stadium that is a venue for foot races. The tower is part of a medieval fortification

Circus Maximus

During the Severan period, it was used for sporting events and, while it is certain that it was most likely originally built as Domitian’s private stadium-shaped garden, its exact purpose is disputed.

Basilica of Maxentius

Temple of Venus and Rome

Antiquarium Forense

The nearby, small Palatine Museum exhibits Roman statuary (most coming from the Hippodrome) and artifacts dating from before the official foundation of Rome.

Palatine Museum

Claudian Aqueduct

On the eastern side of the Hippodrome is a large exedra decorated with sculptures and fountains commanding views of the garden below.

Farnese Gardens

Aviaries of the Farnese Gardens

Palatine Hill: Piazza di Santa Maria Nova, Rome. Admission: €12 (including admission to the Colosseum and Roman Forum). Tickets to the House of Augustus and House of Livia need to be booked separately and in advance.

How to Get There: Located close to the Colosseum and Roman Forum, the area around Palatine is walking distance from the Circus Maximus and Piazza Venezia. Well-served by public transport, lots of buses, such as the 75 and 87, stop near the Colosseum and it is also a short walk from the Colosseo (Line B) metro station. If going to Palatine by bus or taxi, keep in mind that the Via dei Fori Imperiali (the road connecting Piazza Venezia and the Colosseum), is mainly closed to traffic on Saturdays and Sundays.

La Bocca della Verita (Rome, Italy)

Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin

Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin

From Piazza Navona, we rode a couple of buses to get to the beautiful but very modest Paleo- Christian Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, at the foot of the Aventine Hills.  Inside the left wall of the portico of the church was a queue leading to the famous  La Bocca della Verita (English: the Mouth of Truth), a sculpture of a man-like face with a relief carving of an open mouth, 2 oddly shaped horns, wide eyes and a flowing mane of hair carved from a massive round medallion of Pavonazzetto marble from Docimium in Frigia (today’s Turkey).  It has a diameter of 175 cms. (about 5 ft., 9in.); a thickness of 19 cms. (about 7 in.) and weighs about 1,200 kgs. (26,400 lbs.).

The author tries his hand at La Bocca della Verita

The author tries his hand at La Bocca della Verita

The Bocca, thought to be part of a first-century ancient Roman fountain or perhaps a manhole cover from the nearby Temple of Hercules Invictus (it is also thought that cattle merchants used it to drain the blood of cattle sacrificed to the god Hercules), portrays one of several possible pagan river gods, probably Oceanus. Most Romans believe that it represents the ancient god of the Tiber River.

Grace

Grace and Kyle

Cheska and Kyle

Cheska and Kyle

However, the most famous characteristic of the La Bocca della Verita, starting from the Middle Ages, is its role as a lie detector, the reason for its unshakeable fame. It was believed that if one told a lie, with one’s hand in the mouth of the sculpture, it would be bitten off.  Roman soldiers used to bring their wives to the mouth when they returned from their campaigns and prove whether they had been faithful in their absence. It was placed inside the church in the 17th century.

Jandy

Jandy

The mask has attracted the attention and curiosity of English-speaking audiences and tourists from all over the world mostly from its appearance in the charming 1953 Hollywood film Roman Holiday where Audrey Hepburn‘s and Gregory Peck‘s characters, both of whom were not initially truthful with each other, uses the Mouth of Truth as a sort of lie detector and a storytelling device. In one of the film’s most memorable scenes, Peck, in front of a terrified Hepburn, daringly challenges the mask by putting his hand inside its mouth. This scene was also replicated in the 1994 film Only You starring Robert Downey Jr. and Marisa Tomei.

Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck at the Mouth of Truth in Roman Holiday

Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck at the Mouth of Truth in Roman Holiday

Today, queues of tourists  line up outside the church for the evidently too strong thrill of the risk as they honestly can’t resist, while hoping for the best, of audaciously sticking their hand inside this harmless, but unsettling ancient stone mask from the Classical period .

The church interior

The church interior

The church, founded in the 6th century on the ruins of the statio annonae (the food-distribution center of classical Rome), was enlarged by Pope Adrian I in the 8th century.  It is also home to the supposed relics of Saint Valentine (including his skull). Aside from the portico, other noteworthy features of the church include its elegant Romanesque campanile (the tallest Medieval belfry in Rome), the schola cantorum (choir), the rich Cosmatesque pavement and decorations and the Gothic baldacchin over the high altar.

Relic of St. Valentine

Relic of St. Valentine

A fragment of an 8th-century mosaic, from the original St Peter’s Basilica, can be found in the sacristy. A block of tufa, from which the tiny crypt was hollowed out, is said to be the remains of an altar from the Forum Boarium (the ancient cattle market), erected in honor of Hercules, in view of his victory over the giant Cacus, who stole his cattle. Throughout its history this church was repeatedly restored and redecorated, especially in the 12th and 13th centuries. At the end of the last century, the architect Giovanni Battista Giovenale gave the church its excessively Medieval appearance.

Gothic baldacchino over the high altar

Gothic baldacchino over the high altar

Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin: Cor. Via di Greca and Via Teatro di Marcello, Piazza della Bocca della Verità 18, RomeItaly.  Open daily, 9 AM – 1 PM an 2:30 – 7 PM (off season until 5 PM).  There’s no entrance fee.

How to Get There: It is located down the street from Piazza Venezia, south of the Roman Forum, near the Tiber River, and close to Piazza Campidoglio. Take the Via de Marcello down (south) from the Capitoline Hill.

  • Metro: Circo Massimo
  • Bus: 44, 95 Piazza Venezia

Fountain of the Four Rivers (Rome, Italy)

Fountain of the Four Rivers

Fountain of the Four Rivers

The Fountain of the Four Rivers (Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi), triumphantly and theatrically unveiled to the Roman populace on June 12, 1651, is Rome’s greatest achievement in this genre and the epitome of Baroque theatricality.

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

The author (right) and son Jandy at Piazza Navona

The author (right) and son Jandy at Piazza Navona

This fountain, which can be strolled around, was built on Piazza Navona, the site of the Stadium of Domitian, built in 1st century AD. It was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini for Pope Innocent X (reigned 1644-1655).  The pope’s family palace, the Palazzo Pamphili, faced onto the piazza as did the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone of which Innocent was the sponsor.

Palazzo Pamphili

Palazzo Pamphili

Bernini‘s design was influenced by the design of the Monument of the Four Moors (Monumento dei Quattro mori). It may have also been influenced by a fountain in Marino, Lazio which was constructed to commemorate the defeat of the Ottomans at the Battle of Lepanto in 1571.

The obelisk

The obelisk

The base of the fountain is a basin whose center has a slender, ancient Egyptian obelisk, brought in pieces from the Circus of Maxentius to Rome by the Emperor Caracalla. It was built for the Roman Serapeum in AD 81 but had been buried for a long time at Capo di Bove.

Pamphili family emblem

Pamphili family emblem

Beneath it are four semi-prostrate giant nudes of river gods, all in awe of the central tower surmounted with the Pamphili family emblem of a dove with an olive twig, symbol of Papal power and the Holy Spirit. The river gods depict the four major rivers of the four continents, (whose rivers feed the ocean, represented by the large pool) as then recognized by the Renaissance geographers, through which papal authority had spread.

The river gods

The river gods

Supported on the base by a jagged and pierced mountainous disorder of  travertine marble rocks, the marble giants are arranged at the center of a scene of carved grottoes and decorated with flowers, exotic plants and 7 animals (a horse, a sea monster, a serpent, a dolphin, a crocodile, a lion and a dragon) that further carry forth identification.

Lion

Lion

Sea monster

Sea monster

Each carries a certain number of allegories and metaphors with it. The Nile, representing Africa, has a head draped with a loose piece of cloth, meaning that no one, at that time, knew exactly where the Nile’s source was.  Symbolically, this also refers to what the Catholic world saw as the dark ignorance of the “pagan” world: the sculpture has not seen the light of Christianity

Statue of the Nile River

Statue of the Nile River

The apathetic Ganges river god, representing Asia, carries a long oar, representing the river’s navigability, and looks away from the light of the Church, representing the spiritual ignorance of this hedonistic land.

Statue of the Ganges

Statue of the Ganges

The Danube, representing Europe, touches the Pope’s personal coat of arms, since it is the large river closest to Rome.  The most “civilized” and cultured of the figures, the Danube looks toward and embraces the light of the lord.

Statue of the Danube

Statue of the Danube

The Río de la Plata (the word plata means “silver” in Spanish), representing America, sits on a pile of coins, a symbol of the riches America could offer to Europe. The Río de la Plata also looks scared by a snake, showing rich men’s fear that their money could be stolen. Although he throws his hands back in surprise, this representative of the newly converted lands has begun to see the light.

Statue of the Rio de la Plata

Statue of the Rio de la Plata

There are a number of urban legends regarding the fountain, nasty rumors fed by the famous rivalry between the Bermini and Borromini, designer of the church of Sant’Agnese right in front of the fountain.  Borromini lost the fountain commission to Bermini. Many tour-guides, would tell you that Bernini positioned the cowering sculpture of the Rio de la Plata River as if it feared the facade of the church could possibly crumble against him; that the statue of the Nile covered its head so as not to have to see the church; and that the statue of Sant’Agnese on the facade of the church, with her hand on her chest, seems to reassure the Rio de la Plata of the church’s stability. However, the truth is the fountain was completed several years before Borromini began work on the church.

Church of Sant' Agnese

Church of Sant’ Agnese

Today, this revolutionary and grandiose monument to the power and glory of the pope and his family and dynamic fusion of architecture and sculpture, with its highly dramatic, evocative, and individualized figures, dramatically spurting water and a wealth of surprising and charming sculptural details, continues to amaze and entertain visitors to Rome.

Fontana del Moro

Fontana del Moro

Statue o the Moor

Statue of the Moor

One of our Tritons

One of four Tritons

Piazza Navona has two other fountains – the Fontana del Moro, at the southern end, and the Fountain of Neptune at the northern end. The Fontana del Moro has a basin and four Tritons sculpted by Giacomo della Porta in 1575.  In 1673, Bernini added a statue of a Moor,  standing on a conch shell, wrestling with a dolphin.

Fountain of Neptune

Fountain of Neptune

The Fountain of Neptune was also created by Giacomo della Porta in1574.  In1878, the statue of Neptune, by Antonio Della Bitta, was added in to create a balance with La Fontana del Moro.

Museo di Roma

Museo di Roma

Other buildings within the piazza include the Museo di Roma, housed in the large Neoclassical Palazzo Braschi, covering the history of the city in the period from the Middle Ages through the nineteenth century; and the Church of Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore (Our Lady of the Sacred Heart, also known as the Church of San Giacomo degli Spagnoli), the national church of the Spanish community in Rome.

Church of Our Lady of the Sacred Heart

Church of Our Lady of the Sacred Heart

Fountain of the Four Rivers: Piazza Navona, Boccadellaverità, Rome, Italy.

Baluarte Zoo (Vigan City, Ilocos Sur)

Baluarte Zoo

Baluarte Zoo

It was our last day in Ilocos Sur and, as we still had a whole day for sightseeing prior to our evening departure for Manila, we decided to visit Baluarte Zoo, former Ilocos Sur Gov. Luis “Chavit” Singson’s home in Vigan City and one of the top tourist destinations in Ilocos Sur.  Along the highway in Napo, Magsingal, we took a bus or the 13-km./25-min. ride to Vigan City proper.

Zoo entrance

Zoo entrance

From the city proper, we all boarded two tricycles for the 10-min. ride to Baluarte. As it was Holy Week, there was a traffic queue as we neared the entrance so we alighted, paid our fare, and walked the rest of the way.  Prior to entering, we had lunch at an eatery just outside the zoo. Entrance to the zoo was free.

Zoo rates

Zoo rates

Zoo Map

Zoo map

The approximately 80-hectare Baluarte Zoo, where Chavit’s numerous pets can be found, sits on a hill that provides an awesome panoramic view of Vigan City. This interactive free-roaming animal sanctuary is home to albino and spotted deer; miniature horses; impalas; one-humped camels; goats; zebras; ostriches; monkeys; llamas and buffalo plus a slew of bird species, from the common African love birds, ducks, swans, midget chickens and parrots to the more exotic hornbills.

Spotted Deer

Spotted Deer

Zebras

Zebras

For caged animals, they have some reptiles like snakes, iguanas, monitor lizards, pythons, crocodiles and then there’s Bengal tigers and birds such as eagles, owls and peacocks.  Baluarte also features live daily animal shows (three times a day, 10 AM, 2 PM an 4 PM) and tell times when audiences are introduced to the animals.

Ostriches (2)

Free roaming ostriches

There’s also a petting zoo, a butterfly garden inside the garden where one can observe and have a more serene interaction with thousands of butterflies, some endemic to the Philippines; a track or horse riding; a skeet shooting range and a chapel, among others.

Chapel

Chapel

Singson's gold-clad resthouse

Singson’s gold-clad resthouse

The gold-clad building (called by locals as the “Golden Building”), topped with a burning bush sculpture up its roof, is Chavit’s personal multi-storey rest house which has a grand view of Vigan and the West Philippine Sea.

Singson's "Yellow Submarine"

Singson’s “Yellow Submarine”

Within the grounds, we had a glimpse of Chavit’s personal and functional one-man mini-submarine with its iconic yellow color (one can easily hazard a guess on what its name is), said to have been used by Chavit to track treasures during his free time. Kids will definitely enjoy the Jurassic Park background because of those life-size concrete dinosaurs. There was also a safari tour, using a long-seater golf cart, with a minimal fee of Php20 per person.

Life-size concrete dinosaurs

Life-size concrete dinosaurs

To interact and get a close encounter with the animals you can, for a price, also ride some ostriches, horses and ponies and can touch or carry an anaconda (PhP20) and iguana (PhP20). For a closer encounter with parrots and hornbills, visitors may choose to openly approach and feed them with bananas and seeds in a more open area. Each animal has there own designated attendant. The place also has souvenir shops (T-shirts, key chains, ref magnets, etc.) and food outlet.

Souvenir shop

Souvenir shop

The climax of our visit to the place is the Safari Gallery perched on top of the hill.  It houses a collection of deer heads (and other few animals) hanging on the wall; the collection of stuffed animals such as a lion, Bengal tiger, wildebeasts, bison, bear, buffalo, gazelles, elephant, sheep, and so many more killed in his safari adventures (paintings and photos of Chavit beside the dead animal are also posted).

Safari Gallery

Safari Gallery

Some are just skins of these wild animals. While I do not like the idea of killing these animals, it still looks awesome looking at them preserved and mounted. It is also well maintained with properly labeled items.

Stuffed animals at the Safari Gallery

Stuffed animals at the Safari Gallery

Melissa and Albert also tried out the Water Walking Ball (PhP50/pax/15 mins.), a large inflatable sphere that allows a person inside it to walk across the surface of a pool of water. Before leaving, Almira and Jandy tried out the tiburin ride, a rickshaw driven by a miniature horse. It allowed them a close-up view of the free roaming animals.

Water Walking Ball

Water Walking Ball

From Friday to Sunday, 6 – 9 PM (last entry 8:30 PM) there is a Night Zoo. Admission: (Discovery Trail): PhP50 for adults, PhP20 for children and PhP40 for senior citizens and persons with disability.  Tram on Tour:  PhP100 for adults, PhP40 for children and PhP80 for senior citizens and persons with disability. On weekends, from 7 – 8:30 PM, there’s  a Sala ti Darang (The Art of Fire Dancing) show.

Almira and Jandy's tiburin ride

Almira and Jandy’s tiburin ride

Baluarte Zoo: Brgy. Salindeg, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur.  Tel: (077) 722-7186. Open daily, 8 AM – 5 PM (last entry 4:30 PM).

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman (Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur)

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman

This church was built in 1762 by Dominican Father Jose Millan.  Father Miguel Padilla (parish priest from 1825 to 1869) made many improvements on the church and, in 1939, Monsignor Crisanto Padernal plastered and painted the church. Both bell tower and presbytery were damaged and rectory completely ruined by the earthquakes of June 12 and 22, 1957. The present bell tower has a base foundation of 9 m.. Diego Silang, leader of the 1762 Ilocano Revolt, was a bell ringer here.

The Baroque-style facade

The Baroque-style facade

Its protruding Baroque façade, divided into two levels by a string course, has a segmental arched main entrance flanked by superpositioned coupled Doric columns on pedestals. Above the entrance is a statue of St. Dominic of Guzman and a blind, wing-like arch with decorative moldings following its outline.

Blind, wing-like arch

Blind, wing-like arch

Lancet windows at the sides

Lancet windows at the sides

Above this ensemble is a two-level bell tower with semicircular arch openings. The receding side walls of this central segment have square pilasters topped by urn-like finials. The sides of the church have lancet windows.

The modern church interior

The modern church interior

Church of St. Dominic of Guzman: Manila North Road, Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur. Tel: (077) 726-3932. Feast of St. Dominic of Guzman: August 8.

How to Get There: Sto. Domingo is located 413.85 kms.(an 8-hour drive) from Manila and 12.7 kms. (a 25-min. drive) from Vigan City.

Bangui Wind Farm (Ilocos Norte)

Bangui Wind Farm

Bangui Wind Farm

From Pagupud, Melissa, Almira, Albert, Jandy and I again rejoined the others in our bus as we returned to Bangui for our much awaited visit to its Wind Farm, fascinating landmark of the town. From the highway, we could already espy these gorgeous giant fans.

Bangui Bay

Bangui Bay

The windmills, officially referred to as the NorthWind Bangui Bay Project, is the first “Wind Farm” in the Philippines and is considered to be the biggest in Southeast Asia. The site, a graceful arc reflecting the 9-km. long and 100 m. wide shoreline of Bangui Bay, create a fusion of technological and natural elegance. Bordering the West Philippine Sea, it has a windswept area of 5,281 sq. m. (56,840 sq. ft.).

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Its 20 units of 70-m. (230-ft.) high Vestas V82 1.65 MW wind turbine-generator units (WTGs), all arranged in a single row, were supplied NorthWind Power Development Corp, a Danish power firm.  Spaced 326 m. (1,070 ft.) apart, their three 41 m. (135 ft.) long, vertically-oriented rotor blades, on top of a 50 m. high tubular tower with a 6 m. diameter base, have a rotor diameter of 82 m. (269 ft.). The nacelle (casing), which encloses the generator, the gear box and the yaw mechanism (which turns the blades into the wind), is at the rear of the rotor blades.

A restaurant with viewing deck

A restaurant with viewing deck

The sight of the giant man-made wonders was astonishing and any picture with the windmills, whether near or far, is truly charming. You can come close to them, touch them to feel its vibration but you can’t hug them as they are just too big and wide. A must-try experience, there’s definitely no other place like it in the country. Locals even picnic under them and they could hear the whirring of the blades of these tall and imposing structures from above, all of them rotating in unison.   However, the picturesque beach in the area is not good for swimming as its waves are too strong.

The windmills as a backrop for photo shoots

The windmills as a backrop for photo shoots

Now a busy tourist spot, along the stretch are restaurants with viewing decks where you can eat and stalls selling souvenirs like windmill key chains, bags, T-shirts, ref magnets, miniature windmills and pen holders. Seaside horseback riding is also being offered here. You can also watch the spectacular sunset and ocean view while listening to crashing of the ocean waves. The best part o our visit here is that there are no entrance fees. You can shoot all you want. There are no restrooms though. Prepare yourself for the unrelenting winds that batter you from the open sea. There’s not much of an adventure there but it’s still worth visiting.

Souvenir shop

Souvenir shop

How To Get There From Laoag City, take a Cagayan-bound bus (a 1.5-hour trip) towards Burgos. After reaching Burgos, watch out for the directional marker on the left side of the road that leads to the Bangui Bay. Follow the dirt road leading to the bay. Some wind mills will already be visible from this point then make a right turn to the bay.

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse Museum (Burgos, Ilocos Norte)

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

After touring Bacarra Church, Melissa, Almira, Albert, Jandy and I again boarded our bus or the 33-km./40 min. drive to the century-old (first lit on March 30, 1892) Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, the most accessible of all the lighthouses in the island of Luzon and the highest elevated (the tower of the Cape Melville Lighthouse is the tallest at 90 ft/27 m.), still original and active Spanish era lighthouse in the country.

NHI Plaque

NHI Plaque

Last April 6, 2004, on our way to Bauang (La Union) from Pagudpud, my family and I dropped by to visit the lighthouse but wasn’t able to go in as it was then being rehabilitated. A few months after our visit, on August 13, 2004, Cape Bojeador Lighthouse was declared a National Historical Landmark and, on June 20, 2005, was also declared by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure. Recently, the lighthouse was used as the backdrop for the romantic scenes of Coco Martin and Julia Montes in ABS CBN’s  2012 teleserye “Walang Hanggan.”

View of Cape Bojeador and the West Philippine Sea

View of Cape Bojeador and the West Philippine Sea

In Brgy. Paayas in Burgos, a sign on the right side of the Maharlika Highway indicates the winding and narrow, two-lane concrete road that leads to the base of the lighthouse. From the base, we boarded two tricycles (PhP50/each way) that took us to the small parking lot where  there are stalls selling ice candy, canned soda, some finger foods and souvenirs (including a wooden craft replica of the lighthouse with a pen stand).

The courtyard

The courtyard with cistern in the middle

Service building

Service building

Upon arrival, we climbed a flight of concrete stairs to the perimeter wall.  Here, we had a good view of the rough and rocky Cape Bojeador coastline and the whitecaps of the West Philippine Sea. We then proceeded to the courtyard where the service buildings and the cistern are located.

T-shaped stairway

T-shaped stairway

The main pavilion

The main pavilion

An elegant T-shaped stairway then lead us up the verandah of the main pavilion, with its 3 apartments, 2 offices, capiz and louvered window panes and decorative iron grilles, where a hallway took us to the foot of the covered stairs that that lead to the entrance of the  20 m. (66-ft.) high octagonal stone tower.

Albert, Almira, Melissa an Jandy at the veranda of main pavilion

Albert, Almira, Melissa an Jandy at the veranda of main pavilion

This was as far as we could go as no visitors were allowed to go up, via a steep spiral metal staircase (not recommended or senior citizens), to the lantern room (now a modern electric lamp powered by solar panels) on top. Only a certain number of people are allowed in the tower at a time and access to the viewing gallery (surrounded with decorative iron grille work) depends on the outside wind condition.  As it was Holy Week, it was closed to visitors.

The lighthouse tower

The lighthouse tower

One place we had access to was the small, newly restored Cape Bojeador Lighthouse Museum.  Housed in the pavilion at the foot of the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, the rooms lining the hallway used to be shut but, since its inauguration last November 21, 2015, it is now open to the public. At the time of our visit, the rooms were sparsely decorated with low wooden furniture, including four-poster beds by the windows.

The author at one of the apartments

The author at one of the apartments

One room was filled with items that were once used to run the lighthouse (the original kerosene lamp, batteries, a part of the original first order Fresnel lens, etc.), perhaps the most striking in the area, plus samples of original brick work and old photos.

The lighthouse museum

The lighthouse museum

Original kerosene lamp

Original kerosene lamp

We also dropped by the Paru de Kabo Bojeador, the new tourist center which has stalls selling souvenirs and a safe resting area on what had previously been a construction road. The pavilion has also been transformed into lodging for people seeking basic accommodation (except for shared cooking facilities and water from the cistern, no other amenities are provided).

Original brick work

Original brick work

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse: Vigia de Nagpartian Hill, Burgos, Ilocos Norte. Admission: PhP40 for adults and PhP30 for children aged 7-12 years old.

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure (Paoay, Ilocos Norte)

Paoay sand dunes

Paoay sand dunes

One of the highlights of our Holy Week sojourn in Ilocos Norte was our Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure.  From Pamulinawen Hotel, Jandy, Melissa, Almira, Albert and I had to take a 17-km./25-min. jeepney ride to Paoay town proper.  From there, we all boarded a tricycle for the 20-min. drive to the sand dunes. As we neared the dunes, Albert and I had to alight as the tricycle had a hard time climbing up a dune. Upon arrival, we met up with Mr. Jake A. Texon, the Operations Manager.

Onse Reef

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding  Adventure

Ilocos Norte is the only place across the Southeast Asian region where one can find a desert environment. Technically known as the “Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes,” it spans four Ilocos Norte towns. In 1993, due to its superlative natural beauty, geological uniqueness and scientific relevance, the sand dunes have been declared as a National Geological Monument (NGM) in the Philippines (other NGM sites include  the Hundred Islands National Park off  the coast of Pangasinan, the Taal Lake and Volcano Protected Landscape in Batangas, and the Chocolate Hills in the island of Bohol). The dunes have been used as the setting for the desert scenes in for Mel Gibson’s “Mad Max” (1979), Tom Cruise’s “Born on the Fourth of July” (1989) and local blockbuster flicks such as Nora Aunor’s “Himala” (1982), the “Ang Panday” series and “Temptation Island” (2011).

The desert-like terrain

The desert-like terrain

The sand dunes of Ilocos Norte, a one of a kind “extreme adventure” destination in the Philippines, is also ideal for 4 x 4 rides, similar to dune bashing in the Emirate of Dubai in the United Arab Emirates (a booming tourist attraction in the Middle East), and sandboarding. Dune bashing has the feeling and excitement of riding a roller coaster because of the up and down route of the off-road vehicle through the very high and very steep terrain and mountain-like features of the dunes.

A lone tree

A lone tree

The Paoay Sand Dunes, 88 hectares of wide expanse of sand, has the vast sandy characteristics of the Dubai desert (though the sand there is considerably pure because it doesn’t have particles like twigs, barks, stones and leaves), making it suitable for dune bashing and sand boarding.  However, the vehicles used in Dubai (such asToyota Land Cruisers) have roofs while the jeeps in Paoay are open-air and only have a single roll bar.

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In 2011, during our Lakbay Norte Media Tour, we tried the dune bashing and sandboarding at La Paz in Laoag City.  However, it is widely accepted that Paoay boasts the best terrains there are to find in the sand dunes complex and, recently, an outdoor group discovered an area in the village of Bacsil that is a good addition to the options present for sand dunes safaris.  This I wanted to find out.

The West Philippine Sea

The West Philippine Sea

How do the sand dunes of Paoay differ from earlier established commercial areas in the sand dunes complex? For one, it was only recently discovered so its terrain is as pristine as they can get plus not many tourists have visited the place. Also, the combination of wide sandy plains, clusters of closely-formed dunes, several oases and outlying vegetation plus a good view of the coast towards the West Philippine Sea, and the height of its dunes (some at 70 m. high) will surely not disappoint anyone visiting Bacsil. Aside from Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure, there are two other registered 4 x 4 operators at the Paoay sand dunes – Suba Sand Dunes and Culili Point Sand Dunes Double-Extreme-Adventure.

The staging area

The staging area

Onse Reef Off Road & Sandboarding Adventure, according to Jake, was established on October 28, 2014 as a 15 member club whose members pitch in their time, talent and treasure to build the place. It has 21 4 x 4 units – five locally-manufactured Wrangler-type jeeps, 14 Toyota Land Cruisers and two modified Toyota Surfs, all diesel-powered and tuned for dune bashing by being equipped with large tires (underinflated to 10 psi) and heavy duty suspension systems.  Conversions usually cost PhP400,000 per unit.

Some of Onse Reef's 4 x 4s

Some of Onse Reef’s 4 x 4s

All units are manned by 25 drivers and 40 guides (who also teach sandboarding). The drivers and guides have to strictly adhere with safety nets for their passengers who are standing in open jeepney vehicles. Drivers also stay on existing tracks and areas, and do not create new ones in the limited vegetation, so they are caring for the area. For the site to become globally competitive, without disturbing the natural ascent, descent and curbs of the place, the trails were designed in consultation with expert adventure builders in the U.S.A., with names such as the “Snake Pit,” the “Devils Ride,” the “Blind Drop,” the “Triple Fall,” the “Roller Coaster,” etc.

Wrangler-type jeep

A Wrangler-type jeep

We tried out the dune bashing first. We hopped on the back of our blue Toyota Land Cruiser and, in a standing position (you can also do it seated but it is less fun), were asked to hold on tight to the roll bar. No seat belts, harness or head gear at all. Our 4 X 4 ride was more thrilling and enjoyable than any roller coaster ride I have ever experienced and we all felt a different kind of rush as we watched the road from above and screamed for our lives during the times when we felt like the vehicle would topple over.

Boarding our Toyota Land Cruiser

Boarding our Toyota Land Cruiser

You must have strong grip to prevent being thrown out, plus a strong heart to last the trip.  The drive on bumpy routes and very steep 45 degree angle downward slopes were very exciting. The driver knew how to give us an adrenaline rush. We soon learned how to move with the vehicle, especially on high deep hills and side-winding curves. It’s literally like riding a wild horse and surely an experience I’d be glad to do again.

On our way ......

On our way ……

We made a stopover on top of the dunes for some photo shoots. As we arrived during the long arid dry season, the dunes before us were barren and brown, with only wild grasses, shrubs and some sturdy trees. The beautiful, late afternoon sunset here, along the crimson skyline, is also said to be indescribable.  We also learned that offshore is Onse Reef, a 12-hectare-protected marine sanctuary and a beautiful diving site located within the territory of Barangays Bacsil, Mumulaan and Nagbacalan.

Stopover for photo shoot

Stopover for photo shoot

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After our 4 x 4 ride, the others tried sandboarding, an insane sport which, though so much harder than surfing and a little easier than wakeboarding and skiing, was still worth trying. All you need here is body balancing. You need to squat in order to balance and properly surf. Each tried to keep their balance on the stretch of roughly 10 to 15 m. run with the board still on their feet.  The board is geared up with oil to make it glide smoothly over the sand but still they tumbled. Good thing the sand is soft, with no rocks.

Jandy getting ready to surf

Jandy getting ready to surf

However, falling from the sand boards would get lots of sand in your pants. Only Melissa made a successful run while seated on the board. Though you would tumble down at first, you’ll get the hang of it after two or more tries. You will have to walk up the slope every time you surf down and the hard part is just climbing up the sand hill again as it does get very tiring.

Albert bends to balance himself

Albert bends to balance himself

A very nice place to test your nerves, don’t leave Paoay without trying dune bashing and sandboarding! It’s both exhilarating and scary and good for adrenalin junkies. It also gives you the authentic feeling of being in the Middle East as you do not have to travel to Dubai just to experience this. The drivers and the guides all make sure that you get a thrilling ride going up and down the sand dunes. It’s absolutely fun. At the staging area, there is a store that sells snacks, halo-halo and souvenirs.

Melissa makes it down the hill on her butt.....

Melissa makes it down the hill on her butt…..

It is best to try dune bashing when the sun’s not too punishing. As they operate as early as 5 AM, you can try out dune bashing either very early in the morning or late in the afternoon (to also view the nice sunset) as the really fierce heat of the noontime sun can burn your skin. Don’t go there between 10 AM and 4 PM. Bring bottled water with you, as it does get dry and tiring, bring sunblock lotion, a small towel plus wear sunglasses, rubber shoes (because the sand is hot) and a hat that won’t blow off.  Also make sure to have extra clothes and be prepared to get dirty. For those who want to take videos, better use a small camera that you can attach to its stand and hold it in front of you, since it will be hard to hold on to the big cameras while your ride is going down fast.

L-R: Melissa, Jandy, Albert and Almira

L-R: Melissa, Jandy, Albert and Almira

The 4 x 4 ride and sandboarding is not for the faint hearted, anxious, nervous, pregnant, the newly operated, have high blood pressure, fractures, epilepsy or heart disease. Only children 10 years old and above are allowed at the back of the vehicle.  Participants have to sign a waiver.  Peak season is summer, weekends and December.   Rates: PhP1,500 for a 30- minute ride and PhP2,500 for a 1- hr. ride. Maximum number of people is 5.

Posing with Jake A. Texon (in light blue shirt)

Posing with Jake A. Texon (in light blue shirt)

Onse Reef Offroad & Sandboarding Adventure: Brgy. 23, Bacsil, 2902 Paoay, Ilocos Norte. Mobile numbers: (0919) 650-4633 (Smart), (0917) 503-9543 (Globe), (0921) 738-0616 (Smart) and  (0999) 710-2779 (Globe). Email: Paoay.sandunes@yahoo.com. . Website: www.onsereef.com. Open daily, 5 AM – 7 PM.