Stalin State Museum (Gori, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

After lunch, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I, plus our Georgian guide Sopho Makashvili, proceeded on our GNTA-sponsored tour of Stalin State Museum located within Gori town proper. This museum, officially dedicated to the life of Soviet Union leader Joseph Stalin (who was born Iosef Dzhugashvili in Gori on December 18, 1878), was begun in 1951, ostensibly as a local history museum but was clearly intended to become a memorial to Stalin, who died on March 5, 1953. It defiantly opened in 1957, the year after Nikita Khruschev’s secret speech denouncing Stalin.

The large, ornate Exposition Building

The Expostion Building’s tower

In 1989, with the downfall of the Soviet Union and independence movement of Georgia, the museum was “closed,” post-perestroika. However, school groups were still being shown around and, now, it has abandoned all pretense of being closed and has since been reopened. Now a popular tourist attraction, it has retained, until recent years, its Soviet-era characteristics and it now highlights the Soviet-era Stalin personality cult. The museum has 3 sections, all located in the town’s central square.

The Exposition Building’s collonade

We first dropped by the main corpus of the complex, the Exposition Building with a tower at one end. This large, ornate palazzo, one of the biggest buildings in town, was built in the Stalinist Gothic style. While waiting for our guide at the lobby of this rather typical Soviet-era house museum, we checked out the gift shop.

The museum Gift Shop

Some of the “souvenirs” on sale include key chains, mugs, lighters, wine flasks, mini busts and Stalin red wine but the vast majority seemed too kitschy to purchase. After a short wait, we finally met up with our English-speaking guide – the svelte, friendly and polite Natia Jolbordi.

The grand, W-shaped stairway with Stalin’s statue on the landing

The museum tours starts at the second floor of the building which may be reached only by a grand, W-shaped stairway (there are no elevators) whose landing has a life-size statue of Stalin. This complex of exhibits is divided into six halls, all well laid out in roughly chronological order and most dedicated to Stalin’s role in the big patriotic war and his victory over Nazism and fascism.

Our guide Natia Jolbordi

About 70% of the exhibits are photos (mostly reproductions) of various events, pictures from Dzugashvili’s life and of leaders and important events of the Soviet Union. The display also includes artifacts related to Stalin in different periods in his life, illustrations, paintings and newspaper articles headlining his achievements. Many of the items on display have written English descriptions but most, however, are described in Georgian and Russian and that’s why it is so important to have an English-speaking guide.

A display hall

Private things of Stalin’s mother

Our museum guide, Natia went through the very well presented information in a very knowledgeable manner and, after she had finished, was on hand to answer our questions. I was particularly interested in Stalin’s personal life: childhood, his early days when he was in school and the information about his own family and children.

Photos of a young Stalin (lower left) and his contemporaries

I was very enlightened by the story of his eldest son Yakov (from his first wife Ekaterina Svanidze) whom he lost on April 14, 1943 at Sachsenhausen concentration camp, (Oranienburg, Germany) during World War II. I also found the early “revolutionary” years of Stalin especially interesting. Natia told us everything down to the minute detail. She was great.

Consul Buddy Cunanan posing a question to Natia

We also had the opportunity to see display cases containing a couple of Stalin’s famous pipes, private things of Ekaterina Jugashvili (Stalin’s mother), medals awarded to him and gifts (carpets with the face of Stalin, needlepoints, a tobacco-leave mosaic, a hammer and sickle desk lamp, etc.) from various other nations and made to him over the years during his reign.

Display cases with gifts to Stalin

Our journey ended in a darkened room with one of 12 copies of the death mask of Stalin on view, taken shortly after his death and presented in a red velvet ring as if it were a holy relic.

Stalin’s death mask (photos: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

We now all left the main building and moved out, into the sunlight, towards a Greco-Italianate-style pavilion where, enshrined within, is a small wooden duplex hut where Stalin was born and spent his first four years. Stalin’s father Vissarion Jughashvili, a local shoemaker, rented the one room on the left hand side of the building and maintained a workshop in the basement. We all took a peek inside to see its sparse furnishings.

The Greco-Italianate-style pavilion housing Stalin’s boyhood home

Stalin’s boyhood home

The home’s sparse furnishings (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Finally, we moved on to check out Stalin’s personal green, Art Nouveau Pullman railway carriage, parked to one side of the Exposition Building. The former Tsar Nicolas II’s train, it was used by Stalin, from 1941 onwards, for his travel to Allied conferences in Tehran (Iran, November 28 – December 1, 1943), Yalta (Crimea, February 4 – 11, 1945) and Potsdam (Germany, July 17 – August 2, 1945). In 1985, upon being recovered from the railway yards at Rostov-on-Don, it was sent to the museum.

Stalin’s private railway carriage

Weighing 83 tons and armor-plated (a demonstration of Stalin’s acute sense of security), Stalin’s Air Force One still had surprising luxury (for that era) as he kept all the trappings of grandeur of his former enemy. The carriage had Stalin’s bedroom, his toilet, rooms for his aides, a kitchen and a conference room at its end.

Checking out Stalin's conference area (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Buddy, Pancho and the author checking out Stalin’s conference room (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Stalin is Georgia’s most famous though controversial son and, in a culture which reveres strong personalities, that counts for a lot in this small country. The Stalin State Museum, a time warp from Soviet Union times, was truly worth a visit.

Portrait of a sitting Stalin

Stalin State Museum: 32 Stalin Ave., Gori, Georgia. Tel: 995 270 7 52 15. Open daily except public holidays, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission: 10 GEL per pax plus an additional 5 GEL per pax if you want to visit Stalin’s train wagon.

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles (Mtskheta, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug

After making our way down the hill from Jvari Monastery, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I, with Georgian guide Sopho, proceeded on our GNTA-sponsored tour to Mtskheta town center, making a long stopover at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles, known as the burial site of Jesus Christ’s mantle. The biggest ecclesiastical construction in medieval Georgia, it is also the second largest church in Georgia (after the Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral in Tblisi). In Georgian sveti means “pillar” and tskhoveli means “life-giving” or “living.”

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

According to legend, St. Elias (or Elioz), a Georgian Jew from Mtskheta, brought Jesus Christ’s mantle to Georgia from Jerusalem, buying Jesus’ robe from a Roman soldier at the crucifixion site in Golgotha. His sister Sidonia touched the mantle and was so overcome by it that she immediately died in a passion of faith. Nobody was able to take away the mantle from her grasp and she was buried with it. Later, an enormous cedar tree later grew from Sidonia’s grave but people forgot the exact grave site.

In the 4th century, King Mirian decided to build the first church at Mtskheta and St. Nino ordered the cedar tree chopped down to build it. From the cedar tree she had seven columns made for the church foundations. However, the seventh column, designed to stand in its center, had magical properties and could not be raised from the ground as it rose by itself into the air. After an all-night prayer vigil by St Nino, the column miraculously moved of its own accord and returned to earth to the burial site of Sidonia and the robe. The seventh column subsequently worked many miracles.

The entrance gate

The cathedral is also the coronation and burial (10 are known to have been buried here, although only 6 tombs have been found, all before the altar) site of the kings of Georgia. The Svetitskhoveli complex includes the cathedral, the fragments of the palace and gates of the Catholicos Melchizedek I, all built in the 11^th century; and the 18^th century gates of Erekle II (Heraclius II) To enter, Sopho, Melissa and Riva had to cover their heads and wear a skirt. There were wrap-around skirts in a box near the door that could be worn over their trousers.

Sopho, Riva and Melissa in their wrap-around skirts

The cathedral, originally built as a wooden church during the reign of King Mirian III of Kartli (Iberia) in the 4th century, was replaced by a big 3-nave basilica built in the 480s by King Vakhtang Gorgasali. It has been damaged several times, notably by the invasions of Arabs (in the Abul Qasim raid, the church was used as a stable for camels), Seljuk Turks under Sultan Alp Arslan, the Persians under Shah Abbas I and Timur (also called Timurlaine) and, later, during the Russian subjugation and the Soviet period. The domed cathedral, an “inscribed cross” type of church, has a layout of an elongated rectangle and an ornamented facade with decorative arcading which unites the separate components of the structure.

Eastern facade

The present Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was rebuilt, from 1010 to 1029 (during the reign of King Giorgi I), by the architect Arsakidze, at the invitation of the Catholicos Melkisedek I of Georgia. Its cross-dome style of church architecture emerged in Georgia in the early Middle Ages and became the principle style after the political unification of Georgia by Bagrat III (978-1014). The church structure was intended to ensure good acoustics. Its dome, placed across all 4 sides of church was, over the centuries, reconstructed several times. It is supported by 4 lofty columns and contains 16 windows.

Sun emblem joined with a grave vine

Severely damaged by Timur (also called Timurlaine), it was rebuilt from 1413 to 1440 by King Aleksandre the Great who restored the western side of the cathedral and the collapsed cupola. In the 1837, on the occasion of a scheduled visit to Mskheta by Tsar Nicholas II (although in the end the tsar never came), more serious alterations took place when the richly ornamented galleries, narthexes, apses and subsidiary chapels on the north and south, from different periods, were ruthlessly swept away.

Painting of figures of the Zodiac

The interior, originally painted with frescoes, were whitewashed over and, only recently, after much careful restoration, some few remnants of the original paintings, including fragments of a 13th-century Beast of the Apocalypse and figures of the Zodiac, have been revealed again. The base of the basilica, built in the late 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali, after St. Nino’s original church, was found during the restoration of 1970-71 (presided over by V. Tsintsadze).

Exploring the cathedral’s defensive wall

The cathedral’s defensive wall, built in 1787 with stone and brick during the reign of King Erekle II (Heraclius), has a top storey, designed for military purposes, with gun emplacements. From the wall, the entrance to the cathedral is located to the south. Of the wall’s 8 towers: 6 are cylindrical and 2 are square. In 1963, archaeological expeditions, at the southern part of the wall, found the house of the 11th century atriarch. Within the church yard, the remains of the 2-storey castle of Patriarch Anton II were found.

One of 6 cylindrical towers along the defensive wall

Sandy yellow stone, with trimmings, was used for the cathedral’s construction, red stone around the apse window and green stone in the drum of the cupola (dating from the 17th century). The curved blind arcading, from the 11th century, is unaltered throughout.

Large figure of Jesus painted in the 19th century by a Russian artist

A large window occupies most of the church’s western top side. An original sculpture on the wall, showing a sitting Christ with two angels at his side, though restored several times (most recently in the 19th century), has not survived. A relief sculpture, on the external northern wall, shows the symbol of the stonemason (a right arm and hand holding a chisel).

The cathedral altar’s iconostasis (wall of icons and religious paintings)

The walls are decorated with many Christian Orthodox icons, the majority of which date to the 20th century while some are copies of older icons and frescoes from other churches throughout Georgia. Most of the originals are in the national museums of Georgia. At the altar is a large figure of Jesus painted in the 19th century by a Russian artist. As in many Georgian churches, stonework here feature carved grapes, a reflection of the country’s ancient wine-making tradition.

Bull’s head at the eastern facade

Two bulls’ heads, from the 5th-century church, were incorporated into the east façade, a testimony of the folk influence on Christian iconography in that early period. On the right side, from the entrance of the cathedral, is a stone baptismal font, dating from the 4th century, thought to have been used for the baptism of King Mirian and Queen Nana. Immediately behind it, on the north façade, is a reproduction of the relief of Arsukidze’s right hand and bevel.

A reproduction of the relief of Arsukidze’s right hand and bevel

Built into the cathedral, on the south side, is a small stone and square cupola chapel built between the end of the 13th and the beginning the 14th centuries. A symbolic replica of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, it was built at the site to mark Svetitskhoveli as the second most sacred place (thanks to Christ’s robe) in the world (after the church of Jerusalem).

A symbolic replica of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem

In front of the chapel is the most westerly structure, aligned with the columns between the aisle and the nave that marks Sidonia’s grave. Remains of the original life-giving pillar are found preserved inside a tower supported by columns near the dome inside the cathedral. Built in the 17th century, scenes of the lives of King Mirian and Queen Nana, plus portraits of the first Christian Byzantine Emperor, Constantine I, and his mother Helena, were painted by G. Gulzhavarashvili. Traces of the 4th-century church’s foundations have also been found here.

Burial place of Sidona

The second structure, aligned with the columns of the southern aisle, was also built in the 17th century as the throne of Catholicos Diasamidze (it no longer serves this function, as current tradition requires a throne for the Georgian patriarch to be in the center of the church).

The throne of Catholicos Diasamidze

The tombs of king buried here include that of King Vakhtang Gorgasali (identified by his the small candle fortress standing before it), King Erekle II (identifiable by the sword and shield upon it) and, next to him, is marble tomb of his son George XII, the last king of Georgia. In front of the altar are the tombs of David VI, George VIII, Luarsab I as well as those of various members of the Bagrationi royal family, including Tamar, the first wife of George XI, whose epitaph, dating from 1684, is written both in Georgian (Asomtavruli) and Arabic script. Also buried here are Patriarchs Melkisedec I and Domenti II.

Tomb of Prince Konstantin Bagration-Mukhransky

Svetitshoveli Cathedral impressed me by its immensity and it is very magnificent, both inside and out. Of all the Georgian churches I saw, this was my favorite. It has a distinct air of history to it, being a silent witness to history of Christian Georgia for 17 centuries. Directly opposite the entrance is a tourist information office and (nominal fee). At the cathedral grounds are shops, souvenir stalls, cafes, cobblestone roads, granite sidewalks, parking lot and houses with red tile roofs.

The author at Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral: Narekvavi-Mtskheta-Railway Station, Arsukidze, Mtskheta, Georgia. Open daily, 8 AM – 10 PM.

How to Get There: Mtskheta is located about 20 kms. from Tbilisi. Mini buses run regularly every day of the week between Tbilisi’s Didube market and the main street in Mtskheta.

The cathedral grounds with the tourist information office on the right

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website:www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Jvari Monastery (Mtskheta, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

It was the first day of our Georgian Countryside Tour, sponsored by the Georgian National Tourism Administration and, after breakfast, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I proceeded to Meidan Square where we met up with our affable Georgian guide – Ms. Sopho Makashvili. GNTA also provided us with a white Mercedes-Benz Sprinter panel van and a driver.

The Jvari Monastery complex (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Our first destination was to be Jvari Monastery in the town of Mtskheta, just a 22 min. (20.6-km.) drive up north via the Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Highway. Even from the main road, the church was already visible from afar as it is perched on top of a hill (the highest in the town) with splendid hues of orange, yellow, red and green. With its 1:7 size proportions, Jvari Monastery also looked like a head on the shoulders of the rock it was built on. We drove up almost to the monastery where there’s a small lot where cars can park for free.

Jvari Monastery seen from afar (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

According to traditional accounts, in the early 4^th century, a large wooden cross, symbolizing the fall of paganism and rise of Christianity in Georgia, was erected over a pagan temple by Saint Nino, a female evangelist credited with converting King Mirian III of Iberia to Christianity. Pilgrims from all over the Caucasus were drawn to the cross after it was reportedly able to work miracles. In 545, just north of the cross, a cruciform church, known as the Small Church of Jvari, was built. Between 586 and 605, the larger and present”Great Church of Jvari” was constructed directly above the site of the wooden cross by Erismtavari Stepanoz I, the Presiding Prince of Kartli (Iberia).

The Church of the Holy Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

During the Soviet period, the church was preserved as a National Monument, but access to it was very difficult due to tight security at a nearby military base. After the independence of Georgia in 1991, the building was restored to active religious use in 1996. In 2004, the monastery, together with other monuments of Mtskheta, were placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, by the World Monuments Fund, as part of the “Historical Monuments of Mtskheta” and, in 2009, was added to the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger.

The ruins of the Small Church of Jvari (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Entrance to the monastery is free of charge. The monastery complex is rather small and it was once fortified as remnants of a stone wall and a gate, built in the late Middle Ages, still survive to this day. From a viewpoint, we were rewarded with stunning views of of Mtskheta (the old capital of the ancient Kingdom of Iberia), with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in its very heart; the Saguramos mountains and the amassing confluence of the the Aragvi and the Mtkvari (Kura) Rivers.

View of Mtskheta, the Saguramos Mountains and the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

This picturesque view of these two rivers, “that are mixed like two sisters,” was described by the Russian classic poet Mikhail Yuryevich Lermontov (October 3, 1814 – July 27, 1841) in his poem “Mtsyri.” They say that when it is not very rainy, you can see clearly that both rivers have water of different colors: blue and dark blue.

The southern facade (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The Church of the Holy Cross, a domed tetraconch, is an early example of a “four-apsed church with four niches,” a church design found in the architecture of Georgia, Armenia and Caucasian Albania. Often referred to as a “Hripsime-type plan” (after its best known example, the church of St. Hripsime in Armenia), this church had a great impact on the further development of Georgian architecture, serving as a model for many other churches. Three-quarter cylindrical niches, between the 4 apses, are open to the central space and 3 rows of squinches affect the transition from the square central bay to the base of the dome’s drum. The ruins of the Small Church of Jvari are still visible beside the church.

Bas-relief of the Ascension of the Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The church is also the first Georgian church where reliefs take a significant place in the décor of its external facades which is decorated with varied and exceptional bas-relief sculptures with Hellenistic and Sasanian influences, some of which are accompanied by explanatory inscriptions in Georgian Asomtavruli script. The fine proportions and remarkable technique of these relief sculptures distinguishes it from the sculptures from earlier bas-relief carving common in the region.

Bas relief of Adarnase I of Iberia (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The entrance tympanum, on the southern façade, is adorned with a relief of the Glorification of the Cross and also shows an Ascension of Christ. On the facet of the drum of the dome is a figure of an unidentified person, possibly the architect. An inscription on the eastern facade mentions the principal builders of the church as Stephanos (patricius), his brother Demetre (hypatos) and son Adarnase (hypatos). Over the centuries, its stone blocks have been degraded, suffering damage from acidic rain, wind erosion and inadequate maintenance which all play a part in deteriorating the monastery.

Replica of the cross of St. Nino (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Before we entered the church, the women had to cover their heads with scarves and a second one to wrap around the waist as a skirt (there were scarves available for visitors to quickly borrow). However, it seems that it is not very strictly enforced. We were also allowed to take photos inside the church but we avoided using our camera’s flash.

Sopho, Pancho and Consul Buddy inside the Church of the Holy Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The rather rough and simple interior didn’t have any impressive frescoes or richly decorated altar, just the usual gorgeous icons (including one of St. Nino) and a huge, carved wooden cross (a replica of the original cross of St Nino) on its original octagonal base, but its simplicity suggested some peace and quiet. The inner height also made the church look very spacious. The high windows at the top of the church allows light to come through and cascade across.

The author lighting a candle

On our way down the hill, we passed the monument of Russian poet Mikhail Lermontov on the right side and made a short stopover at the Tree of Wishes. A Georgian tradition, The pilgrims come there to fasten cloth ribbons or small pieces of canvas over its branches, with the hopes that their wishes will be granted.

Icon of St. George slaying the dragon

The place, with its unique history, tranquility and unforgettable views, was truly fabulous. Though not large or ornate, the lovely Church of the Holy Cross is very attractive in a strong, simple way and an iconic site in the history of Georgian Orthodox Christianity. Many couples get married here.

The Tree of Wishes (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Khertvisi Fortress (Aspindza, Georgia)

Posted on 27 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

After our day tour of the cave city of Vardzia, Ruby, Riva and I made our way back, via our hired taxi, to Akhaltsikhe where we will take another marshrutka back to Borjomi. About 16 kms. before the town, we made a short stopover at the great fortress of Khertvisi, one of the biggest and oldest fortresses in Georgia.

Khertvisi Fortress, one of the biggest and oldest fortresses in Georgia

Functional throughout the Georgian feudal period, the fortress was first built in the 2^nd century B.C.. The church was built in 985 AD and the present 1.5 m. thick and 20 m. high walls were built in 1354. According to legend, Khertvisi was destroyed by Alexander the Great. According to another legend, a master stonemason and an apprentice entered a competition held by Queen Tamar to see who could build the best tower. The apprentice won and the dejected master stonemason jumped from one of the towers and died impaled on the knife in his belt.

The present 1.5 m. thick and 20 m. high walls

From the 10^th to 11^th centuries, it was the center of Meskheti region and, during the 12^th century, it became a town. In the 13^th century, it was destroyed by the Mongols and, until the 15^th century, it lost its power. In the 15^th century, it was owned by Meskheti landlords from the Jakeli family. In the 16^th century, the southern region of Georgia was invaded by the Turks and the fortress was captured in 1578 and held for the next 3 centuries.

One of the fortress’ bastions

At the end of the 19^th century, after the Russo-Turkish War, the Georgian and Russian army returned the lost territories and Khertvisi became the military base for Russian and Georgian troops. Its strategic location guards the road connecting the towns of Akhalkalaki and Akhaltsikhe. Three roads intersect here – one to Turkey, the second to the sea and the third to Tbilisi.

One of the fortress’ four towers

A square tower

The 150 m long and 30 m. wide fortress, at a narrow canyon at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Paravani Rivers, is situated high up on a rocky outcrop and, as such, we could only admire it from below. If we had a little more time and our taxi driver would allow it, we could have walked up on a little path that begins from the road to the fortress. The fortress is empty though, save for a little chapel, and could be explored in 15 mins..

Ruby, Riva and the author

Khertvisi Fortress: Khertvisi, Aspindza 0500, Georgia.

The Cave City of Vardzia (Georgia)

Posted on 27 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From Akhaltsikhe, it was a fantastic drive up to Vardzia, with old castles and churches along the way. Soon, we espied the wide-mouthed caves gaping at us from across the valley as we drove in. Vardzia, on the left bank of the Mtkvari River, 30 kms. from the town of Aspindza, was excavated from solid rock along the slopes of the Erusheti Mountain during the second half of the 12^th century. The caves, stretching along the cliff for some 500 m., rises up to 19 tiers.

The Cave City of Vardzia

Four distinct building phases have been identified at Vardzia. The first phase, during the reign of Giorgi III (1156-1184), was when the site was laid out and the first cave dwellings excavated; the second between Giorgi’s death and the marriage of fabled queen Tamar, his successor, in 1186 (when the Church of the Dormition was carved out and decorated); the third from that date until Tamar’s victory at the Battle of Basian (circa 1203), during which time many more dwellings as well as the defenses, water supply, and a complex irrigation network ( to water fertile, terraced farmlands on the outside slopes) were constructed.

The author and Riva

The fourth phase was a period of partial rebuilding, after the devastating earthquake of 1283 literally ripped the place apart, shattering the mountain slope, destroying more than two-thirds of the city and exposing the hidden innards of the remainder. Vardzia escaped the onslaught of the Mongol invaders in the 1290s and the monastery community persisted until it was sacked by the Persians, under Shah Tahmasp I, in 1551. After the Ottoman takeover in the 16^th century, the site was largely abandoned.

The steep uphill path to the cave city

The greater Vardzia area includes also the early 11^th-century church at Zeda Vardzia and the 10^th to 12^th-century rock village and cave churches of Ananuri. The main lower site, carved from the cliff’s central stratum of tufaceous breccia at an elevation of 1,300 m. above sea level, is divided, into an eastern and a western part, by the Church of the Dormition. In the eastern part of the complex are 79 separate cave dwellings, in 8 tiers, with a total of 242 rooms, including 6 chapels, “Tamar’s Room,” a meeting room, reception chamber, pharmacy and 25 wine cellars (185 wine jars sunk into the floor document the importance of viticulture to the monastic economy).

Steel ladders facilitate access to caves

In the western part, between the external bell tower and the large main church, are a further 40 houses, in 13 tiers, with a total of 165 rooms, including 6 chapels, a refectory with a bakery, other ovens for baking bread, and a forge. Beyond the bell tower, the complex rises to 19 tiers, with steps leading to a cemetery. Infrastructure includes access tunnels, water facilities and provision for defense. It is assumed that the only access to this mountain stronghold was via a hidden tunnel whose entrance was near the banks of the Mtkvari River.

Walkways connecting the caves

The Church of the Dormition, the central spiritual and monumental focus of the site, is sometimes known as the Church of the Assumption, which corresponds with the Orthodox Feast of the Dormition. It dates to the 1180s and was erected by Tamar to house the icon of the Virgin of Vardzia after receiving divine help in her campaigns. It has an important series of wall paintings. Similarly carved from the rock, with walls reinforced in stone, the church is 8.2 m. (27 ft.), 14.5 m. (48 ft.) long and has a height of 9.2 m. (30 ft.).

The Church of the Dormition

The wall paintings of the church and narthex, not frescoes but executed in secco, are of crucial significance in the development of the Medieval Georgian mural painting. Ascribed to Rati Surameli, eristavi of Kartli, portraits of him, as well as royal founders Giorgi III alongside her niece Tamar, are commemorated on the north wall. Tamar lacks the ribbon that is the attribute of a married woman. Her inscription includes the formula “God grant her a long life.” Giorgi, on the other hand, does not. The paintings are dated to between Giorgi’s death in 1184 and Tamar’s marriage in 1186.

At the vaults and upper walls are episodes, in a sequence, from the life of Christ (Annunciation, followed by the Nativity, Presentation in the Temple, Baptism, Transfiguration, Raising of Lazarus, Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem, Last Supper, Washing of the Feet, Crucifixion, Harrowing of Hell,Ascension, Descent of the Holy Spirit and Dormition).

At a lower level, more accessible as intercessors, are paintings of saints and stylites. On the sanctuary’s rear wall, behind the altar, are Twelve Church Fathers while in the narthex are scenes of the Last Judgment, Bosom of Abraham, Angels bearing a Medallion with the Cross, and 3 scenes from the life of Saint Stephen. Other paintings were lost during the 1283 earthquake.

Since 1985 the site has formed part of the Vardzia Historical–Architectural Museum-Reserve, which includes 46 architectural sites, 12 archaeological sites, and 21 sites of monumental art. In 1999, the extended area of Vardzia-Khertvisi, now part of a state heritage reserve, has been submitted for future inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a Cultural Site. In 2007, it was resubmitted as a mixed Cultural and Natural Site.

Tadpole-shaped pits that may have been ovens for baking bread

The Refectory

From 2012, conservation of the wall paintings in the Church of the Dormition was carried out by the Courtauld Institute of Art in conjunction with the National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation of Georgia and Tbilisi State Academy of Arts. Today, the place is maintained by a small group of zealous monks. About 300 (out of 6,000) apartments and halls can be visited and, in some tunnels, the old irrigation pipes still bring drinkable water.

The premises of the monks

Upon arrival, Ruby opted to stay behind at the parking lot (she has been to Vardzia before) while Riva and I walked up a path whose initial approach leads steeply uphill for 30-40 m. up. It was not easy climbing, but we wore good shoes and I brought along my trekking pole (actually a monopod). As we went through the caves at Vardzia, we walked up and down very steep, narrow and low corridors and stairs, most deformed with time. Some of the balconies we passed by were also not fenced (truly not for the faint of heart). We sometimes went through tunnels in near total darkness.

A narrow passageway

Though the earthquake destroyed a significant part of this cave city carved into the mountainside, what remains was still an unbelievable sight and quite unique and truly amazing to behold. Vardzia looks like it was taken directly from the pages of Lord of the Rings. All I can really say was “Wow.” Walking around and seeing the caves, and the connections between them, was truly mind blowing. The views of the valley are interesting and unbelievable, and the combination of architectural buildings and the caves is astonishing. The most surprising part of our visit was the lack of other visitors. For about 2 hours, Riva and I explored the caves and paths on the mountain but we encountered less than 20 people!

View of the valley from the 2-arch portico of the Church of the Dormition

Vardzia: Samtskhe-Javakheti, Georgia. Open daily (except Mondays), 10 AM – 7 PM. Admission: 3 GEL (adults), 1 GEL (students), 2 GEL (group of 10 person or more).

Ticket Office

How To Get There: From Tblisi, take a marshrutka (minibus) from Digomi Bus station to Akhaltsikhe. Travel time is about 3 to 4 hours and fare is 12 GEL. From Akhaltsekhi, take another marshrutka to Vardzia. Travel time is an hour and costs 6 GEL. For Vardzia, the taxi (worth it if you are a group of 3 to 4 people that can share the fare) is the easiest mode of transport while a marshrutka the second best option. The last marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe for Vardzia leaves at 1:20 pm. Be there 10 minutes earlier as, once full, the marshrutka will depart earlier. The marshrutkas operate 3 times a day. Leave Tbilisi by 7 AM so that you can reach Akhaltsikhe by 10 AM and catch the marshrutka leaving for Vardzia at 10:30 AM and return to Akhaltsikhe via the last marshrutka at 3 PM. The last marshrutka for Tbilisi from Akhaltsekhi departs at 7 PM.

Taxi hired from Akhaltsikhe

Akhaltsikhe (Georgia)

Posted on 27 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

After a breakfast of bread, jam, cheese and coffee at Likani Guesthouse, Ruby, Riza and I readied ourselves for our day tour of the cave city of Vardzia in southern Georgia. From the guesthouse, we walked the short distance to Georgia’s main East-West highway (E60) where we hailed a marshrutka (minibus) that plies the 49-km. route from Borjomi to Akhaltsikhe, a small city in Georgia‘s southwestern region (mkhare) of Samtskhe-Javakheti. The fare was 4 GEL and the trip took about 50 mins. Along the way, it started to snow, my first time to see such an event.

Akhaltsikhe

Riva, Ruby and the author at Akhaltsikhe

Akhaltsikhe, the most direct land route between Armenia and Turkey, has been around for at least 800 years. It was a regional administrative center for the Ottomans from the sixteenth century up to the Russo-Turkish War. Until the 20th century, Akhaltsikhe’s population was mostly Armenian but, today, unlike most of the province, it is mostly Georgian.

Bus station

Taxi stand

Upon arrival at Akhaltsekhi, we had the option of taking another marshrutka to Vardzia but, as the next bus was to leave after lunch (1:20 PM), we instead walked from the Akhaltsikhe bus terminal to the taxi stand where we negotiated with some drivers who could drive us to Vardzia. With one driver who drove an Opel Astra wagon, we finally settled on the amount of 40 GEL. He would wait for 2 hours while we explored the cave city and then bring us back to Akhaltsikhe.

Filling up with LPG at a gas staion

Rabati Castle

Before leaving the city, our driver had to fill up with LPG (Liquified petroleum gas) for his car at a gas station but, before doing so, requested all three of us to alight, something unheard of in an LPG station in Manila.

Overnight at Borjomi (Georgia)

Posted on 26 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Likani Guesthouse Borjomi

After our tour of Borjomi Park, Riva, Ruby and I had dinner at the town center and, after that, hired a taxi to take us to Likani Guesthouse. Its landmark is the famous Tsqarostan, a water source with free clean drinking water. Located 3 kms. from the town center and easily accessible by road, we were to stay overnight at one of this homey, 2-storey guesthouse’s 4 rooms which can accommodate a total of 12 persons (25 GEL per bed or 75 GEL per room of 3 beds).

The ground floor room where we spent the night

We were all welcomed by owner Ms. Lamara Tomashvili. Later in the evening, we met up with the owner’s son Iosebi “Soso” Tomashvili who speaks good English aside from Georgian and Russian. He brought along a jug of homemade Georgian wine and chacha (Georgian pomace brandy) and assumed the role of tamada (Georgian toastmaster).

Riva, the author, Ruby and Soso making a toast

Soso proposed a toast to everyone at the table and we also followed his lead. I somehow was able to consume my share of the Georgian wine but the clear and strong chacha was something else, it being 75 proof. I was just about drunk when I retired for the night.

Our breakfast. Behind are jugs of leftover Georgian wine and chacha

Breakfast the next day, which was included in the overnight rate, consisted of sliced bread, jam, butter, cheese and hard-boiled egg plus coffee or tea.

Still used to make homemade Georgian wine

Owner Ms. Lamina Tomashvili, Ruby Bebita and the author

Likani Guesthouse Borjomi: 85 Meskheti St., Tsqarostan, Likani, 1200 Borjomi. Tel: + 995597005282 and + 995577382120.

Borjomi Mineral Water Park (Borjomi, Georgia)

Posted on 26 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

The next day (my second day in Georgia), after breakfast at our hostel, Filipina expat Ruby and I dropped by the nearby hostel where Buddy, Pancho, Melissa and Riva were staying, hoping to invite any of them to join us in going to Borjomi. Riva, who just arrived early that morning, was game and all three of us walked to the nearby Avlabari Metro Station where we all took the Metro to Didube Metro Station.

The mountain spa town of Borjomi

Upon arrival, we all boarded a Borjomi-bound marshrutka (minibus). The fare was 8 GEL and the 156.4-km. journey, via the Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Highway/E60, took us about two hours. Along the way, we passed by Tserovani, a village of about 2,000 identical houses built to house Georgians who fled South Ossetia during the war.

The author with Ruby

The attractive resort town of Borjomi, in south-central Georgia, is one of the districts of the Samtskhe-Javakheti region and is situated in the northwestern part of the region, in the picturesque Borjomi Gorge on the eastern edge of the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, between the Vakhani and Trialeti Ridges. Clinging to the hills on either side of the Mtkvari River, 850 m. above sea level, it is the largest mountain spa in Georgia, with an estimated population of 14,445.

The author and Ruby walking the sidewalks of Borjomi

The author and Riva walking along the sidewalks of Borjomi

The town is famous for its love-it-or-hate-it but curative mineral water, the number one export of Georgia. As early as in the 15^th century, the mineral waters of Borjomi were already mentioned but it only gained wide notoriety when a daughter of Evgeny Golovin, viceroy of the Russian Tsar in the Caucasus, was cured of her gynecological problems there. Yekaterinsky Spring, one of the mineral water sources, was named after this girl while the second one, Yevgeniyevsky Spring, was named after the viceroy himself.

The Tourist Center

The Romanov House got interested in these mineral sources and the first bottling plant producing bottled Borjomi mineral water was opened by the tsar’s order. The first bottles, made with transparent crystal glass, were later replaced by dark bottles, and every bottle was packed in a reed “case” and sealed with the factory stamps. Drinking it is said to benefit the digestive system and body metabolism. Borjomi mineral water can now be bought in shops in over 30 countries throughout the world and I’ve already tried it during dinner the night before.

Bridge of Beauty

We dropped off at Rustaveli Street, the main commercial street of Borjomi which runs along the northern bank of the Mtkvari River. Walking along this street, we dropped by the tourist office housed in a glass pavilion between Rustaveli Street and the river. Here, we left our backpacks and luggage in a bookshop owned by the sister of the landlady of Likani Guesthouse where we will all be staying overnight. Thus unburdened, we crossed over the Bridge of Peace, a white painted suspension bridge over the Mtkvari River, leading to the southern half of the town where Borjomi Mineral Water Park is located.

Borjomi Mineral Water Park

Stretched along the small Borjomula River, this city park contains the source of Borjomi mineral water. A lovely place for us to do a brisk hike in the chilly mountain air, the park occupies a lovely stretch of forest following the narrow, wooded valley along the Borjomula River. There are several dozen health institutions, recreation complexes, sanatoriums and rest houses in Borjomi and all of them are located in the vicinity of the park. About 300 m. west of the bridge, Rustaveli Street changes its name to Meskheti Street.

Borjomula River

The author and Riva at a viewpoint by the river

Dating from 1850, the park has recently been renovated and reopened in 2005, its opening attended by the presidents of Georgia and Ukraine. Today, it is the most extensive ecologically-themed amusement park in the Caucasus, with a number of attractive themed playgrounds, a few amusement-park style attractions, a swimming pool and a cinema theater. The first part of the park contains the amusement park and cafes.

The Soviet-era railway station

However, most of the park’s facilities – cafes, funfair attractions, the cinema, the cable car and the hilltop Ferris wheel – only operate from about late June to early September. During the summer, a park admission fee of 0.50 GEL is charged but, as it was the onset of winter, admission was free. Near the entrance to the park, local vendors here sell homemade jam made from pine tree cones. It is claimed that the jam is good for improving immunity and useful for curing upper respiratory tract infections.

On the south bank of the river, just east of the bridge is the renovated, Stalin-era Borjomi Park Train Station. The railway here opened in 1894. East of the station, we turned right along 9 Aprili and walked another 600m. Along the way, we passed by a new pedestrian bridge, a quite stunning example of the wave of new Georgian architecture that perfectly symbolizes the restorative water that has made Borjomi famous.

The new pedestrian bridge

Entrance gate of Fairy Land

Children’s playground

Beside the roller-coasters and the pools are the mineral water springs where locals go to get their drinking water, filling bottles with it. Warm mineral water flows from taps in a green pavilion straight in front of the entrance where, nearby, plenty of stalls sell souvenirs and empty plastic bottles of various volumes.

Souvenir shops

Ruby and I drank the water in the main spring’s two battered taps. Though slightly warm, sour and a bit salty, with a tang of sulfur, very different from the slender glass bottled water I tried the night before, we still managed to ingest this stronger tasting water. As it is flavored with sodium carbonate, it was said to taste like Vichy water.

The drinking pavilion

Riva trying out Borjomi’s mineral water

It was a different story with Riva who couldn’t find the courage to swallow it. There are said to be other springs with fresh water that have no strong taste. We continued on to the rear part of the park where, near the entrance, is the cable car (1 GEL each way) that brings visitors up to plateau where the view over Borjomi was said to be fantastic.

The closed cable car station

If we continued past the asphalted part for another 2.5 kms., we would have reached a lovely clearing in the forest where there’s small, a concrete, Soviet-era, hot spring-fed swimming pool with a constant temperature of about 27°C.

Narikala Fortress (Tbilisi, Georgia)

Posted on 25 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Once settled in at my room in Envoy Tours Hostel, I decided to do my first exploration of Old Tblisi. I was joined by Ruby Bebita, a resident Pinay expat who spoke passable Georgian and, after 3 months in the country, already knows her way around the city. She suggested we explore nearby Narikala Fortress which is clearly visible above our hostel. It was still drizzling when we left.

Narikala Fortress

To get there, we walked to nearby Rike Park where we took a plexi-glass cable car (open 11 AM-11 PM, fare: 1 GEL/pax) up the steep hill. Called the Aerial Tramway, it was just reopened last January 2013 after 13 years of reconstruction. Ruby used her Metro Card (Metromoney) to pay the fare. Entrance to the fortress is free.

Aerial Tramway at Rike Park

This ancient fortress, overlooking Tbilisi and the Kura River, between the sulphur baths and the botanical gardens of Tbilisi, consists of 2 walled sections. It was established in the 4th century as the Shuris-tsikhe (“Invidious Fort”) and was considerably expanded by the Umayyads in the 7th century and, later, by King David the Builder (1089–1125). The Mongols renamed it Narin Qala (“Little Fortress”). Most of its extant fortifications date from the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1827, parts of the fortress were damaged by an earthquake and demolished.

Panoramic views of the city

Once on top, I beheld a beautiful view of the city spread out before us, with the Mtkvari River cutting through its middle, making for very frame-worthy photography. Ruby pointed out the notable sites, both old and new, visible from this vantage point – Tiflis Baths, the Metekhi Church, the equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the Bridge of Peace over Kura River, the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi (Sameba) and the mushroom-shaped Tbilisi Public Service Hall. It was truly a photographer’s delight.

The statue of Kartlis Deda (“Mother of Georgia”)

Aside from the fortess walls, there are two notable structures within the fortress – the Church of St. Nicolas and the statue of Kartlis Deda (“Mother of Georgia”). The recently restored St Nicholas church, on the lower court, replaced the original 13th century church that was destroyed during a fire. Built from 1996 to 1997, the new church is of “prescribed cross” type, with doors on three sides. Too bad the church doors were closed as its interiors are decorated with frescos showing scenes both from the Bible and the history of Georgia.

St. Nicolas Church

The statue of Kartlis Deda, on the top of Sololaki Hill, was erected in 1958, the year Tbilisi celebrated its 1,500th anniversary. This 23 m. high, aluminum figure of a woman in Georgian national dress, designed by prominent Georgian sculptor Elguja Amashukeli, symbolizes the Georgian national character. On her left hand she holds a bowl of wine to greet those who come as friends and, in her right hand, is a sword for those who come as enemies.

The author and Ruby

After our tour around the fortress, we decided to forego returning via cable car and, instead, walk down the winding road from Narikala Fortress to Old Tbilisi, a rewarding experience in itself. It’s quite a tricky walk, on wet stoned paths and stairs, but we were wearing comfortable footwear.

Narikala Fortress beautifully lit at night (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

During the day, the fortress exudes a spirit of impregnable character, dignity and endurance and, during the night (when it is beautifully lit), it radiates a sense of inner silence and peace, truly a testament to the world that Tbilisi is a lovely city filled with a rich and historic past.

Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar)

Posted on 24 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

Hamad International Airport

After a long, 9-hour flight from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport at Clark Freeport Zone in Pampanga, our Qatar Airways plane made its first stopover at Hamad International Airport (HIA) in the Arabian Gulf city of Doha, Qatar, the airline’s home, arriving there at 3 PM (Doha time).

The undulating roof of the passenger terminal

Here, we were to have an over 16-hour layover prior to continuing on our journey to Tbilisi, Republic of Georgia. Opened just last April, 30 2014 with the ambition of turning Doha into a global aviation hub serviced by Qatar Airways, this barely 5-month old international airport, designed by global design studio HOK, is one of the most advanced airports in the world. About 65% of the construction workers who built this airport are Filipinos.

Qatar Airways aircraft parked at the airport’s apron

Built over 22 sq. kms. (8.5 sq. mi.), half of which is on reclaimed land, this majestic structure’s expressive architecture reflects its coastal location. The undulating rooftop silhouette of this dramatic, curving building ripples away from the concourse in swooping peaks and troughs that recalls the ocean waves of the Arabian Gulf and sand dunes.This undulating super roof can be experienced by departing passengers in the light-filled departure hall while the undulating roof line is mimicked by vaulted metal ceilings in other concourses.

We probably arrived outside of its peak period as we walked through its beautiful hallways and lounges. As it was completely quiet, we were thinking we were the first to ever set foot in the place. There were no jarring announcements to disturb the calm. Being new, every gleaming surface of this hyper-clean airport’s lavish departure and arrival areas was spotless and its high ceilings and expansive concourses gave it a sense of grandeur.

The steel-framed glass wall, from the curbside arrival area through the ticketing hall, provided us with unobstructed views enabling us to easily find our destinations. The east and west facades have high-performance glass that controls solar heat gain and glare.

The sleek metal and glass surfaces contrast with a vast wood ceiling that provides visual warmth in the longest concourse. One thing I noticed was the deliberate lack of ornamentation, with graceful structural arches left unadorned. Terrazzo was used in high-circulation areas while carpet covered ancillary spaces.

Grand foyer of Duty-Free shopping hall

On the first floor, under a vast central skylight that provides visual access to one of five concourses, transfer passengers such as us, joined originating passengers, as we moved through an open immigration area. The two large transfer hubs were linked by an automatic people mover.

The arriving passengers then progress to the ground-floor baggage hall and exit to a triple-volume meeters and greeters hall which has direct access to taxi pavilions and an intermodal transportation hub. As we had hours to kill, we spent time exploring the airport. One thing that make HIA so unexpectedly cool is their groundbreaking pieces of modern art that, oftentimes, stop passengers in their tracks.

Lamp Bear (Urs Fischer)

The “Lamp Bear,” at the grand foyer of the airport’s duty-free shopping hall, is a giant, bronze, surreal, yellow teddy bear sitting under a black lamp, one of three creations by subversive Swiss artist Urs Fischer. This arresting sight, standing 7 m. tall and weighing approximately 18-20 tons, was previously displayed at the Seagram Building‘s plaza in New York City before it was purchased at a Christie’s auction for US$6.8 million by a member of the Qatari royal family. It at has a near-constant knot of people in front of it, grabbing selfie shots.

Playground (Tom Otterness, 2014)

Throughout the activity nodes in Concourse C, near gates C2, C3 and C8, are a series of eight large-scale interactive bronze sculptures done, by Tom Otterness, with slides and seats for limbs and play-pen-like chambers for torsos. Children and adults engage, interact and find recreational enjoyment with these bronze figures that appear to be in play with one another.

Author posing beside a McLaren MP4-12C Coupe on display at the world’s largest TAG Heuer airport boutique

The communal area seating, with all Italian-style chrome and leather, was fancy. Come evening, we got some shut eye on comfortable recliners within the peaceful surroundings of the quiet lounge. There are also family lounges for those travelling with kids. These quiet rooms, as well as the spacious hold rooms, passenger activity nodes and 17 airline lounges, are all enveloped by glass. Natural light and dramatic evening desert views are provided by skylights and interconnecting glass ceiling “zippers.”

Duty-free shops

The free Wi-Fi at Hamad International Airport was fast and unlimited (simply connect to “HIAQatar Complimentary WiFi”). For standard passengers like us just passing through, there were plenty of the usual airport restaurant and retail options plus numerous upscale boutiques including Gucci, Burberry, Coach, Rolex, Swarovski and others. A lot of Filipinos also work in these shops. On another stopover here on my return to Manila, one of them assisted me when I bought a Sony A-3000 digital SLR camera in one of these shops

Hamad International Airport: Doha, State of Qatar. Tel: +974 465 66 66 (office) and +974 462 29 99 (flight information). Fax: +974 462 20 44. IATA Code: DOH. ICAO Code: OTHH. E-mail: diainfo@qatarairways.com. Website: www.dohahamadairport.com.

This travel blog, a diary of the author’s local and international travels, aims to provide the reader with news and information on people, places and events that would interest the avid traveler and tourist. But, it also aims to be much more, providing insights on the wonders of this beautiful country, as well as the world, beyond the strict confines of the city. Have a BLAST seeing old churches, exotic temples, educational museums as well as palm-fringed islands; white sand beaches; thundering waterfalls; placid lakes; fiery sunsets; turquoise seas; cathedral-like caves; swirling rivers; majestic mountains; stupendous, amphitheater-like rice terraces; awesome volcanoes and the like. Get to know the movers and shakers in the tourism industry; find out where to titillate the palate; rejuvenate your body; feed your adrenalin, unwind and relax; satisfy your craving for history and culture; and find out what's being celebrated and where.

BENJAMIN “BENJIE” LAYUG, an architect by profession (he finished his B. S. Architecture degree from the University of the Philippines Diliman in 1982), is also a copy editor for two publishing houses; travel writer; blogger; architectural historian; author; concert. movie and musical reviewer (for www.pep.ph); and a motivational speaker.

As a free-lance travel writer, he has, in the past, contributed articles to Travel Update, Philippine Daily Inquirer, COLORS, TODAY, 7107 Islands Magazine, Business Day and Bluprint. He currently writes for Artplus Magazine and the Business Mirror.

He is also the author of the following travel books:

A Philippine Odyssey (New Day Publishers, 2005)
Pathfinder’s Travel Guide: Boracay (Great Books Trading, 2006)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches (New Day Publishers, 2007)
A Tourist to Notable Philippine Historical Landmarks, Monuments and Shrines (New Day Publishers, 2010)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums (New Day Publishers, 2012)

Some of his books now appear in the local library shelves of the National Library of the Philippines, De La Salle University, Ateneo de Manila University, University of Sto. Tomas, U.P. Diliman, Centro Escolar University, San Sebastian College, Miriam College, Silliman University, to name a few, as well as internationally at the National Library of Australia and the University of California Berkeley Library.

Now a senior citizen, he is probably one of the oldest, if not the oldest, active travel blogger in the country today. He also has a lifestyle blog called F.Y.I.:Firing Your Imagination (www.firingyourimagination.blogspot.com). Benjie has traveled to two-thirds (53) of the country’s 81 provinces and over 20 countries in 4 continents.

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