Carabao Island: The Next Boracay? (San Jose, Romblon)

White sand beach


I have always been a frequent visitor to Boracay, my father-in-law being a native of Malay town which has jurisdiction over the island.  During this latest visit, for a change of scenery, my son Jandy and I opted to visit the nearby 28.9 sq. km. Carabao Island, touted as the “Next Boracay.”  This  island, part of Romblon province, was so named because of its carabao shape but is commonly called, by its natives, as Hambil.  It is 3 times bigger than Boracay and can be viewed from Boracay’s Mt. Luho View Deck. Relatively-unknown until lately, the prices of real estate in San Jose, Carabao Island’s only town, which is virtually occupied and owned by its original settlers, is also much cheaper compared to Boracay and foreign investors from the European Union, Taiwan, South Korea and Japan have shown interest in relocating to San Jose after they discovered the island’s white sand beaches and crystal-clear waters said to rival, if not equal, Boracay’s.  Reportedly, investors were also discouraged to find taxes on Boracay Island to be “quite high.” 

Carabao Island seen from Boracay


I wanted to visit this still pristine island before the onset of continuous and uncontrolled Boracay-like development spills over to the island.   This is inevitable as plans are now underway for San Jose to be the site of the Romblon Special Economic Zone and that  work on a modern PhP5 billion international airport with a 4,000 m. long runway, to accommodate large-bodied Airbuses and similar aircraft, is expected to begin.  A boat to the island leaves, once daily, around 7:30 AM, from a landing near the Caticlan Jetty Port.  My co-passengers included a French couple, with their two cute little daughters, and Lanas barangay captain Ms. Emerita Sombilon whom I chatted with along the way.  The boat trip took about an hour, passing by Boracay’s rapidly developing east coast and Puka Beach on the north, the closest part of Boracay to Hambil. We again touched ground on Hambil’s jetty around 9 AM and decided, together with the Frenchman, to walk along the beach to the first resort that came our way: Ivy Vine Beach Resort.  We were welcomed by amiable British couple Graham and Pamela “Pam” Hill who were managing the resort in the absence of owners.   We instantly fell in love with the place and decided to stay, billeting ourselves in two of its 7 fan-cooled rooms with bath.  The resort also has a 3-4 pax dorm.  

Graham Hill of Ivy Vine Resort


After lunch (ordered in advance) at the resort’s restaurant, Jandy and I decided to walk long  the coast as far as our legs would allow, surveying the wonderful and bucolic scenery and the existing tourism infrastructure such as Nipa Hauz and the currently closed Carabao Beach Resort.  There are no jeepneys or tricycles for getting to and from the island’s 5 barangays as the narrow, single-track and partially concrete (but mostly rough) road only allows for motorcycles and mountain bikes.  We bought cool, refreshing drinks and halo-halo at small stores along the road.  

A bucolic scene


Come dusk, I decide to forego going to the town proper which was celebrating its fiesta (the Feast of St. Joseph, the town’s namesake).  Instead, we opted to have a quiet dinner at the resort and chat with Graham, Pam and the guests. It was also an opportunity to view its beautiful, uncluttered sunset which I found to be much better than Boracay’s which is usually obstructed with numerous boats and swimmers.
   

A beautiful Carabao Island sunset

Unlike many foreigners who fell in love with and stayed in Boracay, Graham and Pam fell for Carabao Island.  Graham, a divemaster, manages the dive shop, the only one, so far, on the islandPam helps manage the resort.  Both left high paying but mentally draining and stressful jobs to be in this piece of Shangri-la.  However, old habits still remain as they installed a satellite disk, to watch their favorite English football games, and internet (so far, the only one on the island) to keep in touch with relatives, friends and the latest developments in England.  Still, if things go their way, they plan to make the island their permanent home.  I can see why.    

Hobie Cat Sailing at Taal Lake Yacht Club (Talisay, Batangas)

Taal Lake Yacht Club

After our Taal Volcano hike and press conference at Club Balai Isabel, Bernard and I dropped by, on the way home, at the Taal Lake Yacht Club (TLYC), the “Sailing Mecca of the Philippines,” to try some Hobie Cat sailing, a first for me.  Hobie Cats are small, twin-hulled  sailing catamarans manufactured by the Hobie Cat company.  The club is dedicated to the promotion of sailing through its learn to sail program, and the creation of its Hobie 16 one design racing program.  At TLYC, Bernard introduced me to Commodore Peter Capotosto, TLYC owner, Mr. Joe Hagedorn, Sailing Manager/Membership Coordinator.  TLYC grants memberships to accomplished sailors and rowers.

TLYC, established in 1996 and located on the northern shore of Taal lake, started to build up a successful and competitive Hobie 16 fleet and, today, has over 50 privately-owned or TLYC-owned Hobie 16s that form the core of several events that are undertaken throughout the year.   Hobie Cat 16 is the most popular catamaran ever made and the most competitive catamaran class in the world. The first Hobie 16 National Championship was held at TLYC in early February of 1997 and was held  every first weekend in February till 2003 when it was changed to the end of January to accommodate the Philippine Hobie Challenge dates.  The club’s monthly races take place every second Sunday of every month while the Round Taal Volcano Regatta is held annually  at the end of November..

A Hobie Cat 21SC

The club has a very competitive Hobie 16 fleet and 8 Topper class dinghies for training and recreation.  Topper regattas, held every second Sunday of the month, are open to all.  TLYC is also considered one of the best campgrounds within 1 hour from Metro Manila, with open cabanas and toilets available for member and their guests.  Campers here also have a fantastic view of Taal Lake.  TLYC also offers windsurfing (October-April), kitesurfing, keelboats, sunfishes, lazers, optimists, Hobie 21s (good for groups of 7) and ocean kayaks.  They also offer trips to Taal Volcano.

Sailing away

As the wind was good, Peter allowed Bernard and I used a 21-ft. long, 8.5-ft. wide Hobie Cat 21SC (Sports Cruiser) operated by a sailing instructor.  A lady guest also joined us.  This spacious catamaran, intended for casual sailing,  has a front trampoline, wings, an outboard motor mount and a unique built-in, 68-quart marine grade cooler.  It also has 29-ft. mast and 222 sq. ft. (21 sq. m.) of sail.  The cruise, though short, was exhilarating as we sailed to the cool Taal Lake breeze.  Another “must experience” item scratched from my Bucket List.  This has been a fruitful day.

Taal Lake Yacht Club: Talisay, Batangas.  Tel: (043) 773-0192. Mobile number: (0917) 838-3726.  Manila reservation office: Corinthian Plaza, Paseo de Roxas, Makati City.  Tel: (632) 811-3183 or 811-3283.  Fax: (632) 811-3236.  Website:  www.sailing.org.ph/tlyc and www.tlyc.com. E-mail: peter@sailing.org.ph, peter@tlyc.com or sailphi@i-manila.com.ph.

 

A Morning Trek to Taal Volcano (Talisay, Batangas)

Taal Volcano’s crater lake and Vulcan Point

After a delightful Filipino breakfast at Balai Isabel’s restaurant, Bernard, George (Bernard’s son), Bernard’s niece and I made ready for our scheduled hike up, via the Daang Kastila Trail, to the view point of Taal Volcano. Aside from other resort guests, we were traveling with distinguished company, as joining our trek to the volcano were members of the Mt. Everest team including the 3 Pinay ladies who conquered Mt. Everest just a year ago – Ms. Janet Belarmino, Ms. Carina Dayondon and Ms. Noelle Wenceslao – plus Mr. Fred Jamili, member of the First Philippine Mt. Everest Expedition Team’s technical and support group.  The four, together with Mr. Erwin “Pastor” Emata and Dr. Ted “Omar” Esguerra, were slated to join the 2008 6th Hillary-Tenzing Mt. Everest Marathon in Nepal, tagged as the highest marathon in the world.  This 42-km., basically downhill race starts from the Mt. Everest base camp at the Nepal or south side (altitude: 17,149 ft.), to the town of Namche Bazar (altitude: 11,300 ft.).  The volcano trek will serve as a warmup to that event.

The Welcome Center

This was to be my third visit to the volcano and my second to the viewpoint (the other was a trek to the crater lake itself).  To get to Volcano Island, we used a number of the resort’s 32 accredited motorized bancas. Our 30-min. trip again took us around the island, past the 311-m. high Mt. Binintiang Malaki, the island’s highest point seemingly featured on most Taal Volcano postcards like an island but actually connected to the real Volcano Island.  We soon arrived at the open-air Welcome Center and rested for a while prior to our hike.   

From here, it was all 45 mins. (1.7 kms.) of hiking, first along the beach, then into a shady forest and, on our last leg, up a steep, dusty and treeless trail up to the Crater Lake viewpoint.   Steam vents, emitting a sulfurous odor, can be encountered along the way.  The viewpoint, actually just a makeshift hut, was a cool welcome relief for its shade and its magnificent bird’s eye view of the beautifully azure and seemingly peaceful, 2-km. wide crater lake with its small island called Vulcan Point, a view not seen in any view point in Tagaytay City.  At the northeast edge of the lake are vents that effuse volcanic steam.  Mt. Makulot, the highest mountain in Batangas, can be seen in the distance.  The trek back, to the Welcome Center and our boats, was faster but very slippery.  Back at our boats, we were soon on our way back to the resort where a welcome lunch awaited us.

Club Balai Isabel (Talisay, Batangas)

At the spur of the moment, one summer day, I got an invitation from events organizer Bernard Supetran to join a morning trek to Taal Volcano, the world’s smallest and deadliest volcano.  Our jump-off point was to be the 10-hectare Club Balai Isabel in Brgy. Banga in Talisay, Batangas.  Joining me and Bernard was Bernard’s son George and a niece.  To get there, I brought along my ever reliable Toyota Revo.

Clubhouse and swimming pool

We all left Manila early in the morning but still got tied up at traffic at the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX).  Taking the Sta. Rosa Exit, we drove along the Sta. Rosa-Tagaytay Road, turned left along Aguinaldo Highway and drove down winding Ligaya Drive to the Talisay lakeshore road.  We still manage to get to the resort in time for a Filipino breakfast at Club Balai Isabel’s full-service restaurant at the clubhouse where we were welcomed by resort owner and Talisay native, Nelson Terrible  and his wife Cecille.   While dining, we had a magnificent view of Taal Lake and Taal Volcano. 

Restaurant

Opened in 2007, Club Balai Isabel has residential houses and two boutique style clusters: the Sampaguita Manor, with its 6 hotel-type rooms with mini-refs, hot and cold shower  and balcony, all nestled on a garden of different trees and ornamental plants.  The Ylang-Ylang Villa, on the other hand, offers 6 two-storey, kitchen-furnished studio units, all ideal for families. Since the 400-m. long lake shoreline is not recommended for swimming because of its murky and deep water, the resort has put up, aside from its free-form swimming pool, the Mobideep, an inflatable swimming pool with separate pools of different depth. Its deepest pool, measuring 21 feet, is even used for scuba diving training. 

Villas

For conferences, the resort also has 2 function halls (Kasili Hall and Kasay-Kasay Hall).  For company team building, the resort has a challenging Balikatan Course consisting of 5 different obstacles. Apart from its swimming pools, the resort also has tennis, badminton and basketball courts and guests can also rent a kayak to go around the lake.  The clubhouse also has a business center and novelty shop.

Mobideep and Taal Lake

To encourage environment protection and conservation from the community, the resort has started a Solid Waste Management project wherein Talisay residents can avail of support from the resort in the form of loans or financial backing for community projects on condition that they turn in a certain amount of recyclable waste materials to the resort. According to Nelson, this concerted effort will make people realize that nature and Taal Lake should be protected to be able to retain their livelihood, especially fishing and tourism. The resort, on the other hand, also addresses the water shortage problem, one of the biggest environmental problems that the country has to be faced in the coming years, by using filtered lake water for the swimming pool as well as in Mobideep They also make sure that they are using low energy-consumption equipment in the resort.

Obstacle course

In the near future, Club Balai Isabel will be adding more facilities, including a recreation center equipped with videoke, a movie room, billiard tables, Wifi and Play Station 3 rooms, an internet shop, Tea Lounge and a library. Wi-fi will also be made available in the public areas. The resort will also be building facilities for skim and wake boarding.  A wellness center, offering medical spa and traditional medical facility as well as non-invasive therapies and executive checkups for tourists and guests, will also be opened. Nelson is particularly excited about the opening of the Spa Suites, eight 2-8-pax huts which will have a queen-sized bed, private bathroom and a private jacuzzi in a lush garden setting. Club Balai Isabel will soon offer the Taal Lake Cruise using their 20-pax Cancun which is equipped with washroom and mini-bar. 

From the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX), you can also get to the resort by taking the Greenfield/Asia Brewery exit and heading towards Tagaytay City. Turn left at Calamba Road then turn right at Ligaya Drive and head towards Talisay. Turn left at the junction of Talisay National Road and look for the entrance of Club Balai Isabel, which will be at the right side of the road.   
 
Club Balai Isabel: Talisay National Rd., Talisay, Batangas.  Tel: (043) 728-0307.  Manila Tel: (632) 817-0572 and (632) 809-0585.  Mobile numbers: (0916) 552-4319, (0905) 301-1418, (0922) 823-5854 and (0928) 507-1093.  E-mail: craterlakeresort@yahoo.com. Website: www.balaiisabel.com.ph.